Fair and Honest...

Not exactly!

Okay pals and gals, we have already gone into the entire click-farm phenomenon, but the pay to play model goes much further and operates on a far more entrenched level of chicanery and skullduggery.

Rapidly approaching the half-century mark, I have come to realize (and reluctantly accept) that I am now firmly in the category of people that occasionally need to be introduced to new ideas.  One such idea was to try submit Tempus Fugit to what appeared to be a ranking service that (on the service) stated that they were an unbiased source where "normal" people could come to subscribe to various watch blogs and outlets.  I will not name them here, because the point of this post is not to shame anyone or to hurt someone's business.  But interesting to relate, a business is exactly what it turns out to be ; )

Upon submitting the details for Tempus Fugit, I was then first asked, then required to subscribe to another watch blog's feed.  Odd as that seemed (why would I subscribe to a competitor's feed?), I went ahead and did so, being informed by the site ranking administrator that Tempus Fugit would be reviewed and added.

Well, not exactly...

What followed was a full-court press from a sales agent from the site ranker informing me that:
Tempus Fugit is really interesting and the content is great!  Subscribe to our service (i.e. PAY US) and we will place you in the top 100 rank!  To which I replied, 

"how will people visiting your page know what a legitimate rank really is when, in fact, the only requirement for being listed is to pay you?"  

Silence, then another pitch.

And then another pitch.

And then another pitch.

And then another pitch.

And then another pitch.

I finally responded that I was not interested.


I might add that I saw several big name watch blogs listed, and several that I had never heard of, and when I visited realized that they had not been updated for months, and in some instances, years.
So it seems that their check cleared long ago...
 
It is getting to a point where there is next to no legitimate way other than people physically showing their actual tracking numbers to REALLY know what the legitimate traffic numbers are, as opposed to the click farmed, paid follower, paid booster traffic that PR and marketing offices keep writing big checks for.  Don't get me wrong, I'd love to get nice big checks too.  But then again, I don't want to pay a dubious organization to hoodwink not only the marketing offices of watch brands, but also bamboozle the people interested in reading about watches.  There is plenty of deception in the watch business without my adding to it.

Here at Tempus Fugit, we're going to keep our traffic organic.

Breaking the Sapphire Crystal Ceiling - Richemont

Credit must go where credit is due.  If the reports from the South China Morning Post are correct, and now that the researchers here at Tempus Fugit HQ have checked with our "man in Bienne" it would seem that Richemont, on behalf of Jaeger-LeCoultre have done two things that many of us didn't think would ever happen.  They would finally make a decision about a CEO, and more importantly, they made a refreshing decision to appoint a woman to that role.  Word has bubbled out that Catherine Alix-Renier has been tapped to take the wheel at JLC.

Now, in the interest of fair and honest reporting, I have had a very, very hard time liking Jaeger-LeCoultre as a brand for some time.  There, it's out in the open, I've said it.  I have had such an abiding distaste and dislike for their way of doing things that I declined my first-ever invitation to the SIHH, and the "warm & fuzzy ambassadors" at Richemont took note, and no further invitations have been forthcoming...
Well, fair enough ; )

But as that other great commentator on watches, Barry Hearn, has noted:  "Life moves forward, doesn't it?"

So it was with no small amount of amazement, wonder and enthusiasm that I read the news that the brain trust at Richemont HQ had taken the very unusual step to break one of their cardinal rules and not appoint one of their pre-ordained "golden boys" to a senior position that they had been painstakingly groomed for, but rather looked inside the organization for someone who has not only the educational bona fides (insert a quick shout out to Boston College Eagles everywhere) having completed her MBA in my fair city, but the experience.  Someone who rather than loitering around the Richemont HQ, went out and worked in the field.  One of the biggest complaints that I hear from Brand Managers, Brand VPs, distributors and retailers is that the folks at the top have no idea what it's like at their level or in their region.  Well, good news boys and girls, things are about to change.

Ms. Alix-Renier had logged time in North America, Hong Kong and until now been responsible for the Asia Pacific region of Van Cleef & Arpels.  Think about that for a hot minute - the two most important market places that each represent the most daunting and frustrating challenges to brands.  So I suspect at meetings and planning sessions you will no longer hear:  
"Well in Europe..."  as a reason to not consider that different global markets require different approaches.

So I would like to commend the shot callers at Richemont for joining the 21st century, and on behalf of the Executive Publisher and myself wish Catherine Alix-Renier God's speed and all the best of success.

I am now off to a breakfast meeting with the Executive Publisher to discuss a possible pay increase so I can buy a Reverso.  I find that I actually want one again ; )

The Renaissance

From Bangalore Watch Company -

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

Watches are global.  This is something that gets lost in all of the marketing noise driven down our collective throats from Switzerland and Germany.  There was a time when brands were a bit more localized.  And interesting to relate, India has a strong history of watchmaking and some very interesting models that are actively sought after by collectors.  

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

The Bangalore Watch Company was brought to life by husband and wife team Nirupesh Joshi and Mercy Amalraj.  And I personally am excited to see a new (now) micro brand emerge in a new location.

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

The first model to be released will be the Renaissance.  A 40 mm stainless steel case that is also available in a gold pvd finish.

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

The movement is Miyota's 9015.

Courtesy of Bangalore Watch Company

Pre-orders are underway with initial delivery slated for May (next month).

Wrapping up Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SBO2

Time, tide and well, reviews wait for no blogger, so it is time to wrap this one up.

For the past week I have been wearing, and truly enjoying the Sartory Billard SB02 - Silver Dial version.  The review piece came with Sartory Billard's “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel installed.  I realize as I write this that many of you may not be exactly familiar with Sartory Billard, and in fairness I was not either until I met one of the owners at BaselWorld back in March -

Definitely one of the cooler marketing pieces I saw ; )

Sartory Billard is the creation of Ludovic Sartory & Armand Billard.  Based in France, the constituent components of the SB02 are brought together and assembled in the Franche-Comté, a region that I visited back in November 2015 and home to many historical French watch making legends.  

The SB02 is Sartory Billard's second creation.  Now on the surface the watch is interesting owing to its design which is not the typical round field / diver style that we seem to be getting swamped with lately.  

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The case is not quite tonneau, and not quite round.  You might also be able to notice from the above image that the inner stainless steel bezel is somewhat reminiscent of an ellipse.  Not quite round.  You will also notice that the stainless inner bezel pitches upwards somewhat, providing a really cool look and feel with real depth.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and 12 mm thick.  And unlike so many brands (both micro and macro) the guys at Sartory Billard opted for a solid case back, which I truly appreciate. 

The fit and feel of the watch quite good.  It is definitely of the Goldilocks school of watch sizes - not too big, not too small, but just right.

 
Now here's the clever part - actually, just one of the clever parts!  You will notice if you look at the watch dial, you will note that the inner portion is actually translucent.  And you can see the full reveal of the date at 3 o'clock.  I have to be honest, I really dig the effect.  My only suggestion would be to have an outline around the date window to make it stand out just a little bit more.  But this is a minor point, and more down to my aging eyes than any true design issue.

Apologies for the shaky camera hand, but as you can see, the lume is good ; )

Under the hood, the movement is the Miyota 8215 self-winding (automatic) movement.   For those of you so inclined, here is a link to the pertinents, courtesy of Miyota  - 

Miyota 8215

The time keeping was first rate, no major deviations (fast or slow) to mention.  And I have to say something - THANK YOU Sartory Billard for picking a movement that can be serviced pretty much ANYWHERE!  More importantly, it's worth noting how many brands - even the big dogs - are starting to use Miyota instead of ETA or Sellita.  Hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned date.  All functioned perfectly.

The little things that you don't find on most micro-brands are here -

 
A signed crown.  The crown itself was very tactile and precise.  Setting the time was smooth and easy.

A signed buckle.  Smooth and appropriately sturdy for the watch and strap.

And a signed strap.  But there is more to this.  Because a big part of the Sartory Billard design is to offer the watch owner the opportunity to have ONE watch that can have several different looks without the use of tools and a professional watch customizer.

Sartory Billard use quick change straps that do not require a special spring bar tool or a pocket knife.  I started the review wearing this combination -

 
The strap is the grey version (grey sued top, leather underneath).  The strap width is 18 mm at the connection point but you will notice that the strap widens out to fit flush underneath the lugs.  It is a great looking combination, and I got plenty of questions about it.

 
You will also notice the four screw heads at the corners of the outer bezel.  This is far more than an aesthetic touch.  Because every SB02 ships with a tool to remove the screws -

allowing the customer the opportunity to purchase additional outer bezels for the princely sum of...

25 € each!  

 And suffice it to say, if yours truly can easily get this thing off -

And get the other bezel on...

 with minimal fuss and no cursing?  Then ANYONE can!

 From a sunny weekend look...

To the perfect watch to wear to the office.  One important thing to bear in mind when removing and changing bezels - the bezel does NOT require excessive force or torque to secure.  When the screw stops turning with normal force?  You've gone far enough ; )

And I think, if I am honest, Sartory Billard has come up with something that several other brands have tried, but (in truth) failed to deliver on.  A modular watch that can easily be changed and modified by the customer with one tool.  How many watch brands give this much consideration to a customer?  Every watch guy and gal wants to have options.  We speak all too often about our collections.  So often, that I think it is clear that many of us have lost touch with the idea of that one special watch.  The one that we treasure and look forward to wearing every day.  And how many brands are thinking about that customer that perhaps either has limited funds, or is truly conscientious about not spending their kid's college funds in the pursuit of a new watch?  This is an amazing idea, thoughtfully designed, well manufactured and very well-priced at 542 Euros.  

Want an extra one of the "standard" bezels so you can, in effect, double your watch?  You have five to choose from -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

and it will set you back 25 Euros.  Want one of the really nice engraved limited edition ones?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

These are hand engraved, and limited.  And in fairness they are more expensive at 125 Euros each.

Three different colors of leather straps are available and again, very affordably priced at 25 Euros.  

All too often I am confounded by a certain well-known watch media outlet that drones on and on about the "value proposition" when speaking about watches that typically cost more than $1,500.  No offense to these folks, but I find that concept a tough one to swallow.  Mechanical watches, by their very nature, should certainly cost something.  But when I think about a watch with real value in terms of its pricing, I have a hard time equating the word value with something that represents a full pre-tax pay check for many people.  A good watch that you enjoy wearing should not be such a financial hit that you might be choosing between taking your family on a vacation or buying yourself the watch.  And that is why I am so enthusiastic about the Sartory Billard SB02.

Is this for everyone?  Probably not.  The case us unusual, and some people are not necessarily ready to break away from herd mentality and try something new without a big group's name on it.  But for the right person (and having worn it this past week, I can say that I am one of them), the Sartory Billard SB02 offers a great watch with potentially limitless possibilities.  

Here are the pertinents regarding the watch as reviewed:

Sartory Billard SB02 silver dial & “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel

SARTORY BILLARD SB 02
ref. SB02.D.ST.04
Case: 
Stainless steel 316 L mirror polished and brushed on the sides.
“Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel.  39 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick.
Case back: 
Stainless steel, screw down, engraved
Water resistant: 
100m
Crystal: 
Sapphire, anti-reflective treatment with blue shade
Movement:
Automatic Movement Miyota 8215
Hands:
Hour and minute are rhodium with facets and applied Luminova. Rhodium second hand.
Dial: 
Sunray brushed and indexes applied with Luminova.
Crown: 
Stainless steel with logo

Strap:
Suede and genuine leather 

2 years warranty

The 103 Sa B E

From Sinn -

This was one of the more special pieces I got to try on this past March at BaselWorld.  Interesting to relate, feedback from a fellow member of the Fifth Estate -

"Unlike Playboy, people really do read Tempus Fugit for the articles, not for the pictures."

The 103 Sa B E is, in many ways, what you would expect from Sinn.  A solid, legible pilot's chronograph.  Perfect in size, shape and every other detail. But with a twist.  A beautiful blue dial and bezel add that extra little something that makes this latest Sinn so special. 

And a beautiful watch deserves a beautiful picture -

Courtesy of Sinn

 Here are the pertinents -

• Limited edition to 500 units
• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Blue dial with sunburst decoration
• Ivory-coloured coating on the indices, hands, numerals and illuminated triangle
• Anodised pilot’s bezel in blue
• Sapphire crystal glass
• Transparent back made of sapphire crystal glass
• Pressure-resistant to 20 bar
• Low pressure resistant

The Hemel Justice

Hemel has recently brought out several new field watch models, and I'll be sharing them with you one at a time.  

This one is the Hemel Justice, Part of the Reference HM8 Series -

Courtesy of Hemel

Measuring 40 mm in diameter, with ETA's 803.112 quartz movement under the hood.  Here are the rest of the pertinents -

Case:
40 mm in diameter
Bead blasted stainless steel (316L)
Screw down case back and crown
Domed sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 100 meters

Dial:
Black
Superluminova C3

Movement:
ETA 803.112 Quartz
Hours, minutes, seconds (hacking), date (at 3 o'clock).

Strap:
Nylon, with grommets (not simply punched holes), signed stainless steel buckle.
 

The Essence

From Mondaine -

Courtesy of Mondaine

One of the truly neat releases this BaselWorld was the Essence from Mondaine.  This seemed to be a year for interesting surprises, and Mondaine had a few up their sleeves.  One that truly caught my attention was the Essence.  

On the surface, you might be forgiven for seeing yet another SBB themed dial.  But look a little closer.  This is not your standard pvd treated case.  In fact, it is not your standard case at all.  The case is constructed of a polyamide that BASF SE has provided to Mondaine.  This material is not simply just a plastic.  It is composed to a fair degree of renewable materials:

1. Watch Case Materials:

41%	Rizinus (castor plant)
30%	Glass
2%	Black Color pigments
27 %	Fossil based plastics

Per Mondaine, the most notable points of this case construction are:

• • High percentage of renewable resources (in comparison to other watch brands: over 70% less fossil based plastic in the case as 40% of the case content is made out of the Rizinus plant, 30% are glass reinforcement materials.)
• • High strength and rigidity
• • Very good impact strength
• • Outstanding resistance to chemicals
• • Unique surface appearance 

Courtesy of Mondaine

The strap is rubber (38% natural rubber).

Even the packaging is thoughtful -

Courtesy of Mondaine

The pouch that the watch is packaged in is made from recycled PET bottles.  And the pouch can later be "upcycled" for a different use ; )

The Essence is available with either a white or black dial, in either a 32 or 41 mm case diameter.  As I understand it, the suggested retail is $175.

Well done Mondaine!  Hopefully this is the start of even more good things.

Hublot Loves Football?

I'll let you be the judge ; )

Football Legends Pelé & Marcello Lippi

                                meet for a Match of Friendship in Dubai

That's right sports fans, that bastion of footballing and needy grass roots football development programs (insert eye roll and deep sigh here), DUBAI, was host to the latest Hublot Dog and Pony show.

Courtesy of Hublot

Life is a long time, and if you live long enough you will see it all, and so it was that we were treated to the footballing equivalent of the "Fat Elvis Las Vegas Era" for Pele and an assortment of former professionals who were freighted to Dubai to entertain a group of profoundly wealthy people.

Courtesy of Hublot

"This was the dream and Hublot has made it a reality!This match is everybody’s dream.  Seeing friends of the brand, legends on the pitch playing football, bringing together legendary sportsmen who have never played together for this exceptional encounter, creating two teams for a Match of Friendship, all this is more than we could have hoped for!  What better proof of how football can bring people together!”
                                                   Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot


Well, football and commerce at any rate ; ) 

Let's be honest with each other, a 30 minute game of pick-ups with a rather disparate group of former internationals is not a ground breaking event.  It is a pr package put together to amuse the customers in a region that, in fairness, probably represents the best potential for Hublot to sell watches.

And in fairness, if I were a retired (or as good as retired, no longer playing in Europe's top leagues or even the MLS, and plying my trade in China or India) footballer, I would probably welcome the opportunity to be whisked first class to Dubai, treated like a hero, possibly get a new shiny watch, jog around for 15 minutes or so, and mug for the camera.  Who wouldn't?
 

Courtesy of Hublot

So a humble proposal that I have put forward to Hublot several times already (spoiler alert, crickets in response) and will continue to do so every time they push one of these events out to the press - 

Take 1/1000th of what this event cost to put on in.  Donate it to a true grass roots organization working to make football possible in parts of the world where Hublot would not necessarily be a market leader.  I understand that Hublot is a business and not a registered charity and I have no expectation that they should behave as such.  Having said that, when you proudly proclaim your love of football, it would be great if that was a love of football for everyone, not just the wealthy, and it would even be tax deductible ; )





















 

Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SB02 Silver Dial

Begins now.

Erotic Watches

And reality -

As mentioned Ad nauseam here at Tempus Fugit, I don't think I'm a prude.  But by the same token, I am not, by inclination, a fan of erotic watches.  BaselWorld is a guaranteed opportunity to run into someone who wants to show you the mechanical marvel of sexual congress wrapped up in a watch.  Now I know that there is a historical background to the idea of the erotic watch - whereby that functionality was usually hidden on the underside.  

And in fairness, my lack of appreciation is not helped by the image of an aging gentleman leering at me while he shows me two mechanical figures engaged in something naughty - I've had more than a few uncomfortable BaselWorld appointments like this.  It just creeps me out.

And therefore, I prefer my Swatch Bunnysutra (above) which is a PG13 answer to the erotic watch. 

A Modest Proposal about Luxury

Let's face facts, it is called the "luxury market" because it is, well, luxurious.  And luxury has, in the past, traditionally meant expensive.  In our rush to have that elusive, shiny, rare object we often park our common sense, and more importantly a small part of our humanity at the door.   Now before you jump to the conclusion that this is a piece designed to shame anyone, or to preach from a lofty height, fear not!  More and more I am becoming less of a fan of crocodile or alligator straps owing to the way that the leather is obtained and harvested by some suppliers.  I realize that customers still request them and they want something exotic.  And I am not asking or expecting ANYONE to subscribe wholesale to my opinions.

BUT - I also think that there are some interesting options out there.  One of them is SALMON!  Now to be 100% transparent, I was a bit less than impressed by the first salmon straps that I saw.  They were rough, not super well-finished and more of a gimmick than an actual product.  Sorry, that is how I see some of the early efforts.  But what if a REAL strap company started working with salmon skin to make a strap, and to make it a real luxury item?

This is a strap from Belgian strap maker LIC.  You will notice that it does NOT look like something stitched together by an ironic hipster, and rather looks like something you might find on a high priced, dare I say it - LUXURY watch.

I was presented this strap in Basel and (full disclosure) was encouraged to wear it and enjoy it - WITHOUT necessarily reporting on it.  But in the course of initially wearing it I have been very impressed.  Now again - I did receive this strap, I want there to be ZERO misunderstanding on this point.  BUT - I also want to make clear that I am writing about it because it has been a great strap so far and more importantly, it underscores that there are alternative, more renewable resources that can be used to create luxury items that you would actually WANT to use.

I will be back to you in a week with an update.  

  

Lac Poya

From Claude Meylan -

Courtesy of Claude Meylan

This is one of the BaselWorld releases from Claude Meylan.  A whimsical take on how a SWISS watch should look.    The case is 42 mm in diameter, and of stainless steel with a sapphire crystal and display back.  The movement is mechanical (hand winding), skeletonized and engraved.

As mentioned, the real treat is the rotating dial which displays a cut out that also acts as the hour hand as it rotates.

The inspiration is the Swiss mountains and the life and culture that surround them.  In their own words -

La Poya
The Swiss tradition, the art and the culture of its emblematic regions have inspired CLAUDE MEYLAN to celebrate the rituals, the customs and the ancestral symbols. “La Poya” pays tribute to the original festival of the climb to the mountain pastures and associates the know-how of our House to this Swiss Art. The alpine pasture attracts cow herds to spend the summer. It is during the climb that we the celebration of the poya takes place. “La Poya” originated in the region of Fribourg and describes the long procession of cows and wagons loaded with the necessary equipment to collect the milk, make cream and cheese on the heights. The cows are decorated with flowers and bells with belts embroidered with edelweiss and the name of each herd owner. The armailli, wearing the traditional clothes, guides the procession. The facades of alpine chalets have friezes painted or carved in wood, representing the joyous rise of processions. 

Personally, I just think it's pretty cool ; )

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Mechanical with manual winding
Functions
Hours, Minutes
Decorations
Fine finish, fully skeletonised and engraved
Caliber
ETA Unitas 6497
Autonomy
42 hours 

Case
316L stainless steel, transparent back, sapphire crystal
Dimension
Diameter 42 mm
Water resistancy
3 atm
Bracelet
Leather Strap
Buckle
316L Stainless Steel

 

Ode au Printemps

From Schwarz Etienne -

Courtesy of Schwarz Etienne

Sometimes you need a little buzz in the morning ; )  

This is one of the special novelties from Schwarz Etienne this year.  And yes, I sorta' dig it.

With so many brands doing somber, serious things, it is pretty swell to see something that is technically impressive, yet still fun to look at (and wear)!

So for you super serious folks out there, here are the "serious" watch facts:
 
Case

Case Material

Rose gold 5N 18 ct

Case Diameter

44 mm

Case Height

13.70 mm

Glass

Sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective treatment

Sealing

5 ATM (50 m)

Movement

Caliber

TSE 122.00

Type

Manufactured tourbillon automatic "Irreversible" TSE 122.00 with micro rotor

Diameter

30.40 mm (13 ¼’’’)

Height

7.05 mm

Frequency

3 Hz (21'600 Alt/h)

Power reserve

72 hours

Functions

Off-centered hours and minutes indication at 5 o'clock
Small second retrograde at 11 o'clock
Tourbillon at 1 o'clock

But then, there is a fun element -

Courtesy of Schwarz Etienne

The wonderful dial, and the particularly playful hand-painted bee on the micro rotor.

Dial

Gilded brass in the form of honeycomb and sub-dial in tiger's eye Poppy-shaped micro-rotor mass wheel in fine strips of coral Hand-engraved, hand-painted aluminum bee. Hour turning and petit seconde (small second) rétrograde in tiger's eye

Now to be very clear, I am a social worker.  Barring a true Lotto windfall, I will never be able to afford this watch.  Having said that, this is one of those rare pieces that I want regardless of the price point!  It is beautiful, clever and it makes me smile!

As I understand it, the bee is in no small reference to La Chaux-de-Fonds (a bee figures prominently in the coat of arms of the city).

So for the lucky few, this is a truly wonderful piece.  I have seen it and held it at the Schwarz Etienne BaselWorld booth and it is truly impressive!

When Schwarz Etienne went through their "re-branding" a few years back, many of us who write about these things were not certain how it was all going to work out, but it seems to be on track, and humming along ; )