Moritz von Sachsen

This has always intrigued me.

Courtesy of Lang & Heyne

This is the Moritz von Sachsen from Lang & Heyne.

TB Victory from Arnold & Son

This just in from Arnold & Son -

Courtesy of Arnold & Son

TB Victory

Special Limited Edition

A Tribute to the National Museum of the Royal Navy:
Arnold & Son Announces Special Limited Edition of the TB Victory

Who Do You Love?

So tonight (at least it is night in Santa Barbara), I'm going to take some personal liberty.  Someone from my high school days asked me what watch brand did I hold in the highest regard.  I was stumped - to some extent the same way I am now.  But I can answer the question -

I love the Vulcain Cricket.  Not just any Vulcain, as there have been multiple flavors.  I love the Vulcain Cricket of the "between time".  I love the Vulcain Cricket that was produced and sold by the Paajanen family in Helsinki, Finland in the 90s/ early 2000s.

I love the watches made by GoS Watches.  And point of clarification, I represent GoS watches in North America - but I do so because I respect and admire what they do.

ochs und junior.  Yes, clearly fame is the spur that drives an entrepreneur, but yet and still even though I am smaller than Hodinkee, and Monochrome, I am glad to say that for a brief moment in time (now clearly passed) Tempus Fugit was on ochs und junior's radar.  Fun while it lasted.  I wish them well.  And with the big boys covering them, they should be ready (at least media-wise) to move forward

I love Angular Momentum/Manu Propria - there is something indeed to be said about possessing a beautiful object that is truly "hand made".  Martin is a master.

And something I will say while admitting from the outset - I will never (unless something either terribly tragic, or monumentally wonderful happens) be able to afford one of their wonderful watches - Audemars Piguet.  They are singularly perfect.

So pals and gals, let's try to understand that if you go out of your way to buy a watch - because you LOVE watches - then wear the damn thing.  And wear it and enjoy it because it speaks to you personally.  So many wonderful Seikos, Midos, Poljots and that enigmatic chronograph from Seagull.  We live in a false reality that tells us it must be Patek or Jaeger or whatever… and that is nonsense.  Do you love your watch/watches?  Then enough said.

I own, literally, a handful of watches.  And the ones that I own, they all mean something.  To quote one of basketball's most "quotable" people…
"After everything's been said and done, there's nothing left to say or do!"  Buy and wear what you love, not what you feel you should own and love.

See you on Planet Love-Tron ; )

Speake-Marin Spirit Wing Commander

This just in from Speake-Marin -

Courtesy of Speake-Marin

Perhaps the Most Expensive Movement Ever...

And by that I don't mean the price.

Courtesy of MCT

Anyone who is a little familiar with the saga of MCT over the past few years can be forgiven if they might be sketchy on the details.

"Kuro Negoro Shiage" Fountain Pen from Manu Propria

It must be great to have the talent to express your creativity!  This is the latest offering from Manu Propria's collection of fountain pens.

Courtesy of Manu Propria

Here are the details, straight from Bern -

Breaking the Finnish Silence with Rönkkö Watches

I spent four winters in Finland.  Two in Turku, two in Helsinki.  Winter is indeed a quiet time ; )

Most Finnish artists and craftspeople tend to let their work speak for itself, and in the case of Antti Rönkkö, the quality of work nearly screams at you!

Courtesy of  Rönkkö Watches

This  is the Steel Labyrinth from Rönkkö Watches.

Perpetual Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin

This just in from Ulysse Nardin -

The ultimate icon in watchmaking, this new timepiece offers a taste of eternity with its manufacture movement UN-32 that allows the date to be adjusted both forward and backward. 

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin 

42 mm in diameter, available in Gold and Platinum.

The Pinions are Coming!

Perhaps one of the biggest things to be buzzing around Facebook and just about every watch form known to man has been the impending arrival of Pinion.  Well, the wait is nearly over, and the good folks at Pinion are offering up three fantastic options -

Courtesy of Pinion

First up is a stainless steel model.  Black dial, with a 42 mm diameter.

Double-Dating with Tudor

Courtesy of Tudor

Or in fact, the Glamour Double Date from Tudor.

Something to Travel with -

from Angular Momentun

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

This is the AXIS/XXV Longitude 12 America - Traveler GMT.

The Royal TEC1 from Arnold & Son

This is a BaselWorld preview from Arnold & Son.

Courtesy of Arnold & Son

Here's the news, straight from the source -

A President's Day Reminder - What Hodinkee Left Out

Being a day to think about presidents - both current and previous, it seems a good time to sharpen up some of the "lore" that surrounds the presidency and their watches.

So - despite what some of my colleagues at Hodinkee would share - which is 90% of the total, allow me to fill in the gaps - they left out some important points.

This story is from a previous posting in 2012.

A Real Brand Ambassador!

It seems that this is the age of the "Brand Ambassador" - generally someone very famous who has more money than God.  Someone who likes a "freebie" and gets paid an insane amount of money to accept a luxury gift.  Also, as we have sometimes seen, someone who then behaves in such a way that it truly embarrasses and shames the company that hired them.  Why is it, in this age of insane advertising budgets, that we do not see a true brand ambassador?  Someone that the company should well and truly be proud of?  

Well, today I got to speak with someone who I have come to believe is one of the few true brand ambassadors.  Someone who represents the very best of the watch brand ambassador.  The man who with his father worked to revive and sustain a wonderful tradition, and helped ensure that Vulcain

would remain The Watch of the Presidents.

So now, a few minutes with  Keijo Paajanen.

James Henderson - How is it that you and your family got involved with the Vulcain Cricket in the first place?

Keijo Paajanen - It was through a meeting we had with Mr. Michel Ditisheim in Switzerland.  He was the Director for MSR (Montres Suisse Reunion) and a shareholder for Revue Thommen S.A. 

It was actually his father Robert Ditisheim who originally created the Cricket!

JH - Helsinki, Finland is a long way from the US.  What was it that motivated your family to start presenting the Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents in the first place?

KP - As many watch historians and fans know, there was in the past a tradition of presenting a Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents.  We wanted the great story to continue and also because our family has always wanted to have good relations with the USA. My father and his family escaped from advancing Russians (Soviets) in 1939 (JH notes - this is the period of the Winter War).

JH - Who have you presented Vulcain Crickets to?

KP - To Ronald Reagan, George Bush (and same time Gorbachev), Gerald Ford (I personally met), Bill Clinton and Jimmy Carter (I met also personally) and finally last year to Vice President Biden.

JH - Who was the most interesting President/Vice President you have presented a Vulcain watch to?

KP - That must be Jimmy Carter I met personally. He was such a nice person. I also met his lovely wife Rosalynn

JH - Do you now carry the current Vulcain collection?

KP - We did have some of the new pieces but at the moment no, we do not carry it.

JH - It seems that there is a great deal more to the Vulcain tradition than simply presenting a watch, you and your family have really acted as true ambassadors not just for the Vulcain Cricket, but for Finland as well.  

KP - It is our family tradition to present this very special Vulcain Cricket watch every time a US President or Vice President visits Finland.  The Vulcain Cricket is the watch of the Presidents.  The Cricket is also a Great Story.  It has been worn by Presidents Dwight Eisenhower, Harry S. Truman, Lyndon B. Johnson and Richard Nixon.

We wanted this Great Story to continue, so in 1988 when President Ronald Reagan was in Finland we presented him a with a Cricket watch. 

In 1990 we presented a Cricket to President George Bush during the Helsinki Summit. (Actually we also presented a Cricket to Russian President Mikhail Gorbachev.  We never got a letter but you can see him wearing the watch on the cover of Time Magazine's International Issue  (December 31, 1990 number 53).

Courtesy of Time Magazine

In the summer of 1995 we presented a watch to President Gerald R. Ford while he was in Finland to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the signing of the Helsinki Accords.  I had great honour to meet him personally! 

In 1997 we presented a Cricket to President Bill Clinton while he was in Helsinki.  A few months later we presented a Cricket to President Jimmy Carter, with him being the ninth President of the United States of America to wear the very same watch model.  I had the great honor of meeting President Carter and his lovely wife Rosalynn.  No wonder we call the Cricket the watch of the Presidents.

One important historical note is that Richard Nixon got his Vulcain Cricket while he was Vice President in 1955. He received his Cricket from the National Association of Watch and Clock Makers.

JH - And the tradition continues with Vice President Joe Biden?

KP - Yes.  And I feel it is time for me to provide some information concerning my gift to Vice President Biden since the PUBLIC FINANCIAL DISCLOSURE REPORT was released. I knew this was going to take place since I was contacted long time ago by  The Ethics Counsel of the  Office of the Vice President.

The watch (the particular model) given to Vice President Biden is from a stock my father kept (only a few pieces) for future presentations and this is why they are no longer in stock lists and therefore no longer for sale. My father passed away 2009.

And most recently, a Vulcain Cricket was presented to President Obama -

A Happy Tourneau Memory

Now back just after the turn of the century, I briefly worked for a small little company that sold watches in San Francisco and other places…

Courtesy of Breitling

This was 2003, and Breitling seemed to have captured the entire Bay area's imagination.

Hello Beautiful!

A thing of beauty is a joy forever - yes, not mine but John Keats.

This is the Lapland Sky from GoS Watches, in the kitchen at Tempus Fugit /  Oberlin Watch Company HQ.

The ‘Revival’ Collection from Pinion

Hot on the heels of the Axis, Pinion is already working on the next step in their evolution.

Courtesy of Pinion

Here's the news straight from the source -

What Watch Would Carter the Great Wear?

Perhaps one of my ALL TIME favorite books is Carter Beats the Devil.  It is a period piece, a sort of Educated Forrest Gump of the early 20th century, and most of it taking place in San Francisco and Oakland.  It is a BRILLIANT read, and I HIGHLY recommend it!

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

At some point in the story, young carter the magician was presented with a pocket watch with a repeater function.  Now if that story were to be set in the modern age, I suspect he would have been presented this one from Audemars Piguet.

In Berlin, by the Wall...

There stood four beautiful new NOMOS Tetras, 29.5 mm tall ; )

Courtesy of NOMOS Glashutte

This is the brand-spanking-new Berlin Tetra set from NOMOS Glashutte.

The DBF-CAL-100 from Dubois et fils

This just in from Dubois et Fils -

Courtesy of Philippe Dubois & Fils SA

After more than 228 years, DuBois et fils presents the first in-house mechanism in its history. The new DBF-CAL-100 automatic movement was created based on a Revue Thommen Caliber. 

RGM Classic Chronograph Model 455

Something coming from RGM in March -

Courtesy of RGM

This is the new RGM Classic Chronograph Model #455. Less than 100 watches will be made with this classic 1940's  inspired design.

Riding the Wave with JEANRICHARD

I love Japan.  Living and working there for 3 + years left a pretty strong impression.  One of my favorite keepsakes is a print copy of one of Hokusai's iconic images.  It would seem that I am not the only one!  This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

To celebrate 150 years of Swiss-Japanese diplomatic relations, JEANRICHARD has launched a very special version of the Aquascope.

Telling the Truth is a Dangerous Business - Part Deux

Okay, the Olympics are important.  Agreed.  But feeding people is important too.  I do not mean any disrespect, but I do mean to engage in honest conversation.  My fellow watch bloggers have labeled me as "troublesome" and some other names that perhaps aren't fit for family viewing.  I can live with that.  I do not live in expectation of the "champagne room" at the next SWATCH or Richemont event.  If I am a pariah, then I made the choice to be a pariah.

But what of the people without food, shelter, medicine?  What of the people mercilessly stalked and beaten senseless in the street - video recorded for the world to see.  Can they live with it?  Sounds like the happy, joyous days of Germany circa 1930's?  Yeah, what a great reference to base your national policies on!

BaselWorld is like some goofy "pimp life" for me - free drinks, free meals, comped entertainment, the ridiculous events put on by watch companies with more dollars than sense.  I'm not going to lie to you, I look forward to it.  But I also hope that I don't check my sense of right at the coat check room.

OMEGA - I never thought I would write the following words - I have more respect for Budweiser right now than I do for you.  People living 10 miles from the Olympics don't have enough to eat?  People persecuted and victimized?  Beaten with the full approval of the government?  Do you NOT see the parallels to Hitler and the Berlin Olympics?  I'm not judging anyone covering the event -my admittedly messed up views of the world are my own.  I write this from the "exile" of Santa Barbara - It is easy for me to have an opinion.  And as my teaching colleagues from St. Andrews would often remind me - opinions are like backsides ; )  But with sponsorship comes certain responsibilities.

In all honesty, despite my love for OMEGA, I can't get behind Sochi in any way, shape or form.  Several companies have made the commercially unpopular decision to withdraw their sponsorship.  Watches shouldn't be political - and in fairness the Olympics shouldn't be political.  But in fairness, they have been political since "Hitlers' Games" in Berlin.  And yes, that charming Austrian lad made the Olympics political way back when.

Let me say this now, clearly and without any possibility of misunderstanding -
I love my OMEGA watches.  I deeply respect OMEGA.  But I cannot support OMEGA's involvement in the Sochi games.

Admittedly, I am a romantic.  I expect more from OMEGA and I am disappointed by their blind devotion to commercialism and Olympic tie-ins in the face of a totalitarian regime.  And as a self-admitted romantic, I expect that the majority of folks out there will not agree with me.

What's my beef?  Why is this such an issue?  In the interest of full disclosure,  I went to school with the son of another "pariah" - Tommie Smith.  Remember the black glove at Mexico City?  Yes, that was Tommie Smith.  I am PROUD to say that I was a classmate (however briefly) of his son Kevin back at the Eastwood School in Oberlin, OH.  I will also tell you - Kevin didn't comment on that (the protest).  He just said:   "Let me show you something about my dad"… and he opened the Guinness Book of World Records, and there he was - Tommy Smith!  It was 1974 or 1975, the picture was from Mexico City.  We were kids.  And that Olympics happened right about the time we were both born.  We didn't even think about stuff like this.  He was black, I was white.  We were friends.  So OMEGA, I guess it's safe to say that I take things like this a little personally.  OMEGA - all about timing - that would be a partnership for you - the man who was the fastest man in the world at the time, and was willing to let it go in the pursuit of what he felt was right.  That I can get behind.  That is a watch I would buy!

And if it's time to "pay the piper" for my less than mainstream views, and this means my BaselWorld appointment is canceled, I understand and respect it, but it is time to be counted.  And OMEGA - I expect you to count me.  I love your company, I love your watches, but I cannot be silent.  I expect more from you - the world expects more from you.  You are now bigger than ROLEX.  You are now the leader - it is time to act like it.

So you want to really honor two people who truly idealize the Olympic ideal?

Tommie Smith and John Carlos.  These men embody what are supposed to be  the Olympic ideals.  So instead of serving up prawn cocktails washed down with champagne at Olympic pavilions for the rich, famous (and white) celebrity guests, maybe take a few minutes - and a few watches - and recognize some men and women who really embody the Olympic ideal.  

Telling the Truth is a Dangerous Business

So, as I write this I am reminded how many times I start off a post with "so".  I suspect that it is designed to try and welcome readers in.  To try and diffuse any possible tension.

So…. it sort of eases you in.  And I am guilty of perhaps trying to play both sides.  Working hard not to really speak plainly, afraid to upset the hierarchy.

So,  while it is all fine and good to Stir up "passive" controversy while still praising the industry, today is when that changes.  PERIOD.   And honestly, how on earth can you trust me if I'm not willing to get spit on by the PR person from Breguet USA and not share it?

So here today I am stating clearly, there will be no more "softening".  If a watch sucks and if it is one I have contact with/reason to comment on, you will hear from me.  But more importantly, I don't live in a vacuum - and I hope that you don't either.  So for better or worse, you will get a taste of my personal views.

For whatever reason, I feel like tonight is a good time to clear the decks and set the table for what Tempus Fugit will be in the future.

So let's talk about what is wrong with the watch industry.  Big, huge conglomerates telling you what you should want.  Small (seemingly) plucky independent watch makers giving you "real value" in the face of MASSIVE industrialization!

I'm calling BULLSHIT!

Brands telling you that they are offering you a SWISS MADE watch for $250 retail… that watch is no more made in Switzerland than is Seiko.  And the main difference is that Seiko CAN deliver that watch  without fibbing about provenance.

So when I get yet another press release about the AMAZING (insert faux Swiss name here) line of watches offering such AMAZING value… I say

"ni men hao"!

And in all fairness, that's fine, but don't try to pump me with this horse shit that your watches are SWISS.  When a sausage with a roll and mustard costs about 10 - 12 Swiss Francs I have a hard time believing that your watches are sold to your distributors for $85 - $100, so that they can afford to sell it to the retail partner for $125?  What are your "SWISS" employees eating?  How are they able to afford to pay their rent?

"Made" in Switzerland?  

My Ass.

Sold "through" Switzerland - maybe. 

Think I'm being too harsh - fine, you can pay my BaselWorld hotel bill and buy my meals.  It's EXPENSIVE!

It goes without saying, people will always find a way to f*&ck people out their money based on false promises.  But what is fascinating about the SWISS watch industry?  Nobody is willing to call a liar a liar.

Feeling Blue - in a Good Way

Two very beautiful new pieces from Girard-Perregaux.  Here are the details straight from the source -

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux


Girard-Perregaux 1966 
The Girard-Perregaux 1966 model combines understatement, delicacy and precision. It is admirably balanced design and well-proportioned dimensions make it one of the most immaculately finished timepieces. 

The BENU Power Reserve

This is a little something from Moritz Grossmann.  Quite a bit more on these folks to come as we get ready for BaselWorld!  This is the BENU Power Reserve -

Courtesy of Grossman Uhren



Here are the details, straight from Glashutte -

Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon

This just in from Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon Chronometric precision accelerator

The "Sunstar" Startimer from Alpina

Here is another BaselWorld novelty preview from Alpina -

Courtesy of Alpina 

Here's the info straight outta' Geneva -

A Little More Family History

So a friendly reader asked for a photo of my father's (now my) MIDO watch, and here it is.

It will be 46 years old this July!

It is a hard thing to put sentiment into words.  It is often unreasonable, and nearly always inexplicable.  It is not unlike trying to explain what happiness FEELS like.

And from my Tourneau days, I know that there is often that type of bond that is accidentally formed between a family and a watch brand.  And that is where I sometimes find myself with MIDO.  The time between 2000 and now has been one of uncertainty.  But seeing the new pieces in the collection, I feel like MIDO has created something that is at once modern but respectful to the past.  What does it feel like?  Like talking with that favorite relative after too long a time.  Reassuring and exciting at once.

Keep it up MIDO!

Bell & Ross at the International Automobile Festival

This just in from Bell & Ross

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Once again, the 29th International Automobile Festival, which sets the standard in the world of design and automotive, took advantage of the sumptuous surroundings of the Hotel des Invalides, just beside its Dome.

Bell & Ross, partner of the official ceremony, has renewed its support for the eighth consecutive year of this event, associating design, trends and prestigious automobile.

Bell & Ross offered, for the delight of fine mechanical lovers, an exclusive preview.

A neo-retro concept-bike, with aerodynamic lines, inspired by speed-bikes and the experimental US aviation of the 60’s, halfway between a plane and a motorcycle: the B-Rocket.

More than a motorcycle, the B-Rocket is a legendary engine, a dream airplane-motorcycle produced with Shaw Harley-Davidson.

The watchmaking part of the B-Rocket concept will be unveiled at Baselworld, the International Watch and Jewelry show, organized from March 27^th to April 3^rd in Basel, Switzerland.

About 600 personalities: designers, car manufacturers, media and members of the Jury attended the ceremony and at this occasion, exceptional Concept Cars, some of them in worldwide exclusivity, were introduced. A total of 14 Grands Prix, including the Palme d'Or, were awarded by the jury of the Festival to personalities and companies celebrating their talents.

Member of the jury, Carlos A. Rosillo, CEO of Bell & Ross, rewarded the prestigious Palme d'Or to Vincent Bolloré for his Autolib’ project (self-service electric cars).

A Little Family History

My father was given a MIDO the day before I was born.  He wore that thing damn near to death.  I think he only stopped wearing it when it came time to have it serviced, and the local "watch maker" did not understand the concept of MIDO's monocoque case, and left a "not so nice" souvenir on the case back - a deep groove in the gold filled back as he tried to force open a case back that wasn't "openable" : (  
and a second error when he finally understood to remove the crystal, but as he didn't have a MIDO crystal tool, he opted to "smash" the crystal leaving a not-so-nice gash in the dial.  He then kindly charged my father for a new crystal and a MIDO tool kit!  And it ran for the next five years, but when the next service interval came around he was a bit gun-shy, and didn't want to take a second roll of the dice.  A series of "throw away" watches ensued, and the MIDO was consigned to a box, and later a bank deposit box.

And there it stayed for the next 15 years in a lock box.  Gears, wheels and pinions rusting from neglect.  I finally got my hands on it and it now is back in working order.  Although my father was happy to see it brought back to life, he felt the face was a bit too wee to read.  So the rest of his days were measured by a large faced quartz piece from Maurice Lacroix.

Courtesy of  MIDO

Well, it has now been five years since the old boy popped his clogs.  That small little gold filled time machine still holds pride of place on my desk here at Tempus Fugit HQ.

I light my torch and wave it for the...

JEANRICHARD 1681!  Or at least Simon Le Bon does!  I have to be honest, this little news blurb made my day!

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

From JEANRICHARD -
Simon received a JEANRICHARD 1681, a timepiece which refers to the heritage of the brand.

Introducing Dietrich 1969

Here's something new for you -

Courtesy of Dietrich

This is the OTC-AO1. (Time Chronometer A model, version 01) from Dietrich.

The Spirit Wing Commander from Speake-Marin

This just in from Speake-Marin -

Courtesy of Speake-Marin

The Spirit Wing Commander features high-visibility big date, power reserve indicator and ‘topping tool’ seconds wheel; three-dimensional dial; and titanium case

Time To Act with EDELBERG

This is EDELBERG's edition of the TIME TO ACT watch that I wrote about earlier.

iF product design award for Ahoi

This just in from NOMOS Glashutte -

Courtesy of NOMOS Glashutte

NOMOS Glashütte wins the iF product design award for Ahoi

C9 Harrison Big Day-Date

This just in from Christopher Ward -

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

IT’S A BIG DAY FOR CHRISTOPHER WARD WITH THE LAUNCH OF THE C9 HARRISON BIG DAY-DATE!

The Model 103 Ti TESTAF

Courtesy of Sinn

And while we're on a theme of German watches -

The M2 Chronograph 6451-02

I know that this is not "new" new, but I still think it is pretty cool!

Courtesy of Tutima

This is the M2 Chronograph 6451-02 from Tutima.

Something Red from Christopher Ward

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

This is the C7 Italian Racing Red Chronometer - Limited Edition

Behold the Aurora!

Now as I have tried to be very clear about, I do represent GoS Watches here in North America, but like any proud uncle, from time to time I can't be completely unbiased ; )

Courtesy of GoS Watches

Restraint - Welcome Restraint

We all have dreams.  Mine is nothing as extravagant as a highly complicated concoction, or of a watch capable of timing Davy Jones's descents and ascents.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

This is from the Jules Audemars collection from Audemars Piguet.