Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Lord Drippington, I Presume?

Okay, I realize that I am once again, the last man on the conga line, but I LOVE the adjective "drip".  I also realize that the youth hanging out in front of Bodega in Boston waiting for the latest sneaker drop have already moved onto a new phrase to declare the "dopeness" of a given item, having said that I am going to ride "drip" until it's dry! 

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
I am, at heart, more of a fan of the upstarts, the strivers, the underdogs. But in so far as the established brands go, I have a HUGE amount of love for Bell & Ross. Do I like everything they offer? No, and in fairness I think that would be incredibly disingenuous. 

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
I am a teacher/social worker. I have difficulty with heights (vertigo and frequently clogged inner ears), I REALLY get excited by driving the speed limit, and I have no fantasies about slugging a Nazi on the beaches of Normandy. My idea of an action packed vacation would include business/first class upgraded flights, combined with a beautiful (and modern) hotel in Paris, followed by leisurely outings to museums, boutiques and restaurants. Needless to say, most watch brands do not picture someone like me as a likely "brand ambassador" and if I am less than charitable about watch advertising (Breitling, give it a rest!), it is because it is so far from the reality that 99% of their customers know.  And I say that as the guy who created 2 of DOXA's most famous advertising campaigns ; )

Now a watch cannot make you taller, faster, stronger or more handsome.  BUT - a watch can transform how you feel. True confession - I am the VERY happy owner of 2 Bell & Ross watches that I frequently have to outsmart Wendy in terms of who gets to wear what. (Spoiler alert - Wendy is the brains of team Henki), so I gratefully cop what she has opted not to wear on a given day.  Heaven help me if she ever decides to go "Full Hayek" on me ; )

But I will say - and this is not hyperbole, when I am either nervous, dreading or feeling triumphant, I invariably put one of these two watches on.

With all of that in mind, this is a watch (like my 2 Bell & Ross pieces) that I can actually picture myself doing heroic things while wearing -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

And truth be told? We all could use our own "super hero" watch every now and then, right? 

Well, this one pretty much sums it up for me. An ideal watch whether you are jet setting, plotting global domination, or the most heroic of all - taking care of the people you love. I know it might sound a bit cheesy, but if you are reading Tempus Fugit it is either because you are an incurable insomniac, or because there is a romantic hiding somewhere inside of you. And of all the watches I've worn and owned, Bell & Ross tends more often than not to trigger that romantic feeling.  It's hard not to be romantic about watches, and the new BR 03-93 GMT brings that feeling back home.


Here are the pertinents -

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.303. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.

Case: 42 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished steel. Bi-directional rotating bezel with 24-hour scale and black and red two-colour anodised aluminium ring.

Dial: black. Indices coated in Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands and 24-hour hand.

Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Straps: black coloured calfskin leather and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle: pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.


UR-100V "Blue Planet"

A  limited edition of 25 pieces from Urwerk -

Courtesy of Urwerk

Courtesy of Urwerk
Here are the pertinents -

UR-100V "Blue Planet"

Limited edition of 25 pieces

Movement

 

Caliber: 

UR 12.02 self-winding mechanical movement regulated by Windfänger Planetary Turbine Automatic System

Jewels: 

39

Frequency: 

28,800 vph - 4Hz

Power reserve: 

48 hours

Materials: 

aluminum satellite hour carousel driven on Geneva crosses

aluminum carousel 

Finishes: 

Plate, rotor, turbine, planet carrier, hand with blue PVD treatment

Sandblasting, micro-beading, perlage

Chamfered screw heads

 

Hour and minute index painted with Super-LumiNova

Indications: 

Satellite hour and minute indicator, rotation of the earth in 20 minutes, revolution of the earth around the sun in 20 minutes

 

 

 

Case

 

Materials: 

blue PVD steel case, titanium backcase; blue PVD sandblasted steel crown

Dimensions: 

Width 41 mm; length: 49.7 mm; thickness: 14 mm


 

Crystal domed transparent sapphire crystal


Water resistance: 

3 ATM (30 m - 3 bar)

 

Price

48,000.00 CHF (Swiss francs / excluding tax)


Tuesday, March 30, 2021

The "1887 Remontage Manuel" In Blue

From Eberhard -

Courtesy of Eberhard
The follow-up to the white dial version, this is the latest iteration from Eberhard.  

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41.8 mm in diameter. The movement is hand winding, the EB140 calibre.  

Here are the pertinents -


CASE:
Stainless steel, 41.80 MM in diameter
20 MM lug width
Stainless steel crown with the Eberhard “E” shield in relief
Case back secured by 4 screws. 

DIAL:
Blue dial with Clous de Paris finishing, personalized with the historical Eberhard & Co. Chaux-de-Fonds logo and the Maison’s foundation year– 1887 – on metal cartouches.
Rhodium-plated Roman numerals and rhomboidal indices, applied. 
Trapezoidal date window, with rhodium-plated profile in relief, at 6 o’clock.

CRYSTAL:
Domed sapphire with interior antireflective coating 

MOVEMENT:
Mechanical hand-winding EB140 Calibre

STRAP:
Alligator

The Heritage Chronograph

From Delma -

Courtesy of Delma
Based on an original Delma model first released in 1946. This is one dope time machine!
The case is PVD treated stainless steel to produce a yellow gold finish.
The movement is Sellita's SW510, a self-winding (automatic) bi-compax chronograph.
Hours, minutes, seconds, bi-compax chronograph and date at 6 o'clock.

Very reasonably priced at $2,850.

Here are the pertinents -


MOVEMENT
Automatic
Caliber:
SW510 Bicompax Chronograph, Delma custom rotor
Power reserve:
48h
Number of jewels:
27
Frequency:
28'800 A/h

CASE
Case material:
Yellow gold PVD
Case back:
Yellow gold PVD
Size in mm:
43
Height in mm:
15.7
Weight in grams:
115
Water resistance:
10 ATM / 100 m / 330 ft
Crystal:
Domed sapphire crystal with AR coating
Bezel:
Yellow gold PVD
Dial color:
Silver
Lug size in mm:
22
Bracelet material:
Genuine leather
Bracelet color:
Brown
Clasp:
Butterfly deployant clasp
Clasp material:
Yellow gold PVD


A New Brand And A New Voice - A Few Minutes With Susan Galvin

Having lived in Finland for four years, I am always happy to find another Finnish watch maker putting their work out to the world - this way via Australia!  
Courtesy of Galvin Watch Company

And now, a few minutes with Susan Galvin, the woman behind the Galvin Watch Company

James Henderson - How did you get started in watch making?

Susan Galvin - I was 22 years old when I went backpacking around South East Asia and during this trip, I started to think about my future career. I did a one year art course after High School and I really liked designing and making jewellery. My Dad saw an article in the local newspaper about the Finnish School of Watchmaking and he suggested that I should consider becoming a watchmaker. Since I really liked doing things with my hands and I appreciated the complexity of the mechanical watches, I thought I might just give it a try! 

In the watchmaking school you learn how to repair the watches rather than making them. However, during my last year I designed and modified a skeleton watch using the ETA 6497 Calibre. This project was so enjoyable that I thought to myself that one day, I would like to establish my own watch brand. 


James Henderson - Prior to launching Galvin Watch Company, what were you doing?

Susan Galvin - After graduating from the watchmaking school, I was offered a job as a watchmaker with LVMH UK. I worked there for three years and from there I transferred to Sydney. From LVMH I moved to Swatch group and worked as a watchmaker with Omega. In March 2020, whilst on maternity leave I was made redundant. I worked in the field all together for 10 years, before I started my own brand in April 2020.


James Henderson - What took you from Finland to Australia?

Susan Galvin - Ever since travelling as a backpacker, I was dreaming of coming to Australia one day. When I came across the opportunity of transferring to Sydney, Australia from the LVMH UK, it was a no brainer for me! Initially I was offered a job from Hong Kong or Sydney, but I chose Sydney. 



James Henderson - You've now got your first collection (as Galvin Watch Company) under your belt. What has been your best seller?
Courtesy of Galvin Watch Company
Susan Galvin - That must have been the Alku White. It has been the most popular option from the day one! I call it a flagship design of Galvin Watch Company's Alku collection. 


James Henderson - What is your largest market?

Susan Galvin - I was lucky to get a lot of printed press attention in the beginning of my crowdfunding journey. From the publicity I received a lot of interest from Finland and Australia. So I'd say the biggest market audience comes from these two countries. 


James Henderson - I am assuming that the name of this collection - Alku, indicates that this is just the first, and that there's more to come?

Susan Galvin - Absolutely! I am currently finalising the new design, before ordering the samples. I am not sure yet if I should do it via Kickstarter or not - the future will tell. I am currently working on brand awareness. I currently have a relatively small but very loyal customer base who I appreciate immensely. It seems they love my story and background - so I suppose I just need to keep spreading the word.  


James Henderson - What were some of the challenges you encountered getting started?

Susan Galvin - At the beginning of the process I struggled finding a reliable manufacturer with good communication skills. After several weeks of work and research I found the right manufacturer for my business. Good communication skills are so important when concluding the design process and importing products from overseas. 


James Henderson - What was the most surprising thing you (hopefully positive) that you experienced in launching?

Susan Galvin - The support has been just amazing. I received so much heartwarming, positive feedback from all over the world before, during and after my crowdfunding journey. 


James Henderson- How has the reception amongst the watch fans of Australia been to the Alku collection?

Susan Galvin - It's important to have a brand story. My background and knowledge as a watchmaker has definitely helped me become noticed in Australia and elsewhere. It can be challenging to design something unique as there are so many microbrands out there, especially with the Alku design being based on classic vintage dress watch design. I added 3 new colours at the beginning of this year and they new have received a lot of interest, especially the Alku Peach.
Courtesy of Galvin Watch Company

The Ocean Star Tribute (In Green)

From Mido -

Courtesy of Mido
Came across this little buzzer while cruising the Mido website this morning. This is (I am assuming) the latest iteration of Mido's Ocean Star Tribute.
Courtesy of Mido

According to Mido, the case measures 40.5 mm in diameter. The lug width is an aggravating 21 mm. The movement is listed as being an Automatic Mido Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.621).

All yours for CHF870.00

Reaching out to the folks formerly responsible for North America in the not-so-distant past, myself and a colleague from the Fourth Estate were informed that Mido no longer had offices in North America. So I am not 100% sure if the retailers listed for the US are "still in action", but sometimes the search is half the fun!

Let's hope this is one of those times ; )

Monday, March 29, 2021

The Klassik 200

From ARCHIMEDE -

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE


Available with a blue dial (above) and a rather spiffy silver version (below) -
Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE
The case is (you guessed it) an Ickler make, of stainless steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, 10.8 mm thick and 45 mm lug to lug.

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE
The movement is the Sellita SW 200-1.

And for you lume fans out there, don't worry -

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE
The good people at ARCHIMEDE have you covered!

Here are the pertinents -

Movement

Swiss-made automatic movement SW 200-1

ickler-logo-9hICKLER Case

The high-quality case manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim.
Hardened, brushed, and polished finish, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 20 ATM, crown with A-logo, screw-down case back with mineral crystal.
Dimensions: Diameter 39mm, thickness 10.8 mm, lug-to-lug length 45 mm

Dial

Silvered with applied luminous indices, date at 3

Hands

Silver, luminous hands

Band

Black leather strap (optional: deployment clasp) (wrist size: 17.8 - 21.7cm)

Popeye!

This is the latest from the folks at Bamford Watch Department -
Courtesy of Bamford London

Limited to 100 pieces, don't try to pull a Wimpy ("I'll gladly pay you Tuesday, for a Popeye GMT today...")
Courtesy of Bamford London

Here are the pertinents -

Description

This Popeye GMT has all the features of the original Bamford London GMT with a Swiss Made automatic Sellita SW330-2 movement and 24-hour GMT hand function, allowing users to set a home time zone when traveling. This design provides a vibrant splash of cartoon colour on the dial, contrasted against a 316L grade matte black case measuring 40mm in diameter and 11.2mm in thickness.

Specification

TYPE: 
Automatic GMT watch with internal rotating bezel
MOVEMENT: 
Sellita SW330-2, 25 Jewels, 28,800 Vph, 42 hour power reserve
FUNCTION: 
Self winding mechanism with ball bearing, 3 O’Clock date position with quick date setting, second time zone by central hand
CASE MATERIAL: 
316L grade stainless steel, Sapphire Crystal glass with antiglare
CASE DIAMETER: 
40 mm
CASE THICKNESS: 
11.2 mm
CASEBACK MATERIAL: 
Stainless Steel with matte black finish
WATER-RESISTANCE: 
100m / 10 ATM
LUG WIDTH: 
20mm

Price - £1,500

The Norrsken

 From GoS -

Courtesy of GoS
Not since peanut butter and jelly first got together has the world been treated to such a dynamic result!
Courtesy of GoS
At first glance, you see a beautifully engraved case the likes of which GoS watches are famous for, and a stunning guilloche dial which, if I have read correctly was aided by the skills of Jochen Benzinger. But when you turn out the lights...
Courtesy of GoS Watches
you see the handiwork of the Black Badger, the nom de lume of James Thompson.  But wait!  There's still more!  Notice that chapter ring?
Courtesy of GoS Watches 
That isn't just any chapter ring. It is the handiwork of Mikael Kenlind, a master artisan working with glass, or more specifically - hand blown Swedish crystal. And this chapter ring is the result of his efforts.
Courtesy of GoS Watches

So what? What's the big deal?  Well, gentle reader, allow me to make it plain -
Patrik Sjögren and Johan Gustafsson have been grinding it out for as long as I've been writing about watches. Several stops along the way they probably could have cashed in on easy opportunities, dumbed down their offerings, gone for the easy money. But in a watch world full of gimmicky, me-too offerings, GoS has been a true North Star reminding watch brands big and small what it means to stand firm on what you believe in.

And then add the calculated whimsey of the master of all things lume, the Black Badger, and it's as if a new watch making super hero group has been formed to battle the forces of a boring hegemony.  I mean, don't get me wrong - the big dogs make some perfectly nice watches. But if you really and truly want something different, something special, this "Fantastic Five Mashup" is the Shit That Killed Elvis!

Here are the pertinents -

Functions
Hours, Minutes Seconds
Small second at 6h:00 in the shape of the GoS triskele

Movement
Manufacture movement by Schwarz Etienne with GoS-specific modifications and finishing
Automatic winding with a micro-rotor and damascus steel counterweight
GoS triskele engraved on click wheel
Handpolished bevels on all bridges
Separate bridge for escape wheel
21,600 vibrations/hour
86h power reserve
Stop-seconds mechanism
33 jewels – 199 parts
30.40mm x 5.25mm

Case
41.5mm x 12.1mm (8mm at edge)
Stainless steel with optional Black Damascus case ring and/or Damascus steel bezel
Sapphire crystals front and caseback – Front crystal domed with double sided anti-reflective coating
Transparent crystal gaskets in new Swiss developed material
5ATM water resistance (50m)
Crown with double gaskets and GoS internal impact protection

Dial
Damascus steel:
Handforged Swedish tool steel by Johan Gustafsson - machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren
Guilloche:
Silver dial handturned by master Jochen Benzinger - machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren
Hour index recesses filled with emerald green Badgerite, developed by James Thompson together with Swiss SuperLuminova
Transparent index ring in Swedish Crystal - individually handmade by master glass artisan Mikael Kenlind
Solid ring of Badgerite applied round the Crystal index ring

Hands
GoS viking spearhead – Rhodium plated
GoS triskele small seconds hand

Strap
Polished Salmon leather – black – Made in Stockholm
Tapered 21mm to 20mm with rounded padding
Pin buckle in stainless damascus steel with GoS triskele logo

Presentation box
Individually handcrafted presentation box in Swedish crystal, handmade by glass artisan Mikael Kenlind

Sunday, March 28, 2021

A New Brand From A US Watch Legend

The Swiss watch business, as it is conducted in the US, is a curious game at the best of times. And while there are some glamorous guys and gals who, let's just say are not shy about self-promotion, there are a handful of folks who have been putting in some very serious work for years, and oftentimes do so behind the scenes.  

Once such trailblazer is Donald Loke. Mr. Loke has just come out with a new chronograph (actually four) that are already creating a lot of buzz.

Courtesy of Don Loke
And we'll get to those watches shortly, but first, a few minutes with the man behind DLoke Watches, Don Loke -

James Henderson -
Tell us a bit about yourself.  How did you get involved in watch making?

Don Loke -
This is a long story so I will include my CV for your reading pleasure!  An Idea popped into my head in 1974 to be a watchmaker. No one in my family is in this field. I had scholarships to colleges for springboard diving but I turned them down as there were no jobs available. I had 2 brothers who graduated from Ohio State University and they had a very hard time finding a job. I didn't really know what I wanted to do for a living so I decided not to go to school and I worked 3 jobs! After 3 years, I was talking to a friend of mine who worked in a jewelry store and he told me about a man who came in every Friday dropping off watches and picking up more to repair. I thought to myself, dying profession = job security! So I found a watchmaker in the area and spoke to him about it. I ended up applying to Bowman Technical School in Lancaster PA which was considered the best school in the nation at that time. It had a nine month waiting list to get in. There were only 105 students in the school. 60 of them were in watchmaking, 20 in jewelry, 10 in clockmaking and 15 in hand engraving. 

James Henderson -
You've worked for some pretty impressive brands.  Can you tell us a bit about them?

Don Loke -
I was very fortunate that  I graduated WOSTEP with top honors, number 1 in the class (I had perfect scores on both exams). From there I was invited to train at Jeager LeCoultre followed by Breguet. At Breguet I had the pleasure to train with Daniel Roth!  He was the man who trained me on the Tourbillon. I came back to the US as the national service center for Breguet. Then I got pulled into the industry as the technical director for several high end brands and service centers for others, ETA, Audemars Piguet, Gerald Genta, Daniel Roth to name a few.

James Henderson -
Your new chronograph is decidedly different.  What was the inspiration behind it?

Don Loke -
I always had a vision to design a Chronograph without the pushers sticking out of the case.  Thus, making it more of a dress watch!

James Henderson -
What was the toughest part of this watch's development? 

Don Loke -
The pushers, I was told it couldn't be done!! I said thank you and then set out to prove them wrong!!  

James Henderson -
What is your favorite aspect of this watch?

Don Loke -
Designing the pushers to be integrated into the case design was the most difficult aspect and at the same time the most rewarding! 

James Henderson -
Where can people get one?

Don Loke -
Presently we are setting up the official launch of the brand. During these tough times, retailers are not looking to take on additional brands. I have approached several retailers with whom I have had long relationships with and they are all wishing me luck. I may have no choice but to do an "Etail" website and build the brand from there. Once I have done that, I will go back to the retailers in key cities and reintroduce the brand to them.  I have 2 bespoke watch movements/designs I will be producing after this dress chronograph!

And now ladies and gentlemen, children of all ages, allow me to introduce you to the Dress Chronograph from DLoke -
Courtesy of DLoke Watches
GENTLEMENS DRESS CHRONOGRAPH





Available in four different versions, this is the first piece of the DLoke collection.

 

Here is the rundown -


Chronograph displaying hours, minutes, sweep center chronograph hand with registers at 12 and 6 o’clock. Chronograph, with “hidden pushers” at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock positions. Crown at 3 to wind and set watch, crown at 9 to rotate inner elapsed time bezel.

· Movement: Quality number one, Concepto movement 8100, chronometer rated, automatically wound, adjusted in 5 positions, power reserve of 48 hours, Rhodium plated, 25 Jewels. Bridges chamfered and highly decorated, with “Cotes de Geneve” decoration.

· DRL™ engraved logo on oscillating weight.

· Dial finished in a high gloss enamel lacquer finish.


EXTERIOR

· Case produced in Medical grade 5 Titanium, 40 % lighter and 5X more scratch resistant than stainless steel. Diameter of 43 mm, water resistant to 5 ATM. Sapphire crystals front and back with antireflective coatings.

· Limited Edition first series of 25 pieces per style with white dial, white inner rotating bezel and white dial with blue rotating inner bezel.

· Crowns with DRL™ logo, dials with raised markers, 30 minutes counter at 12 o’clock, 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock.

· Minute and hour hands in DRLoke™ “blade” leading edge design in steel, leading edge design forms full marker when passing over the 5 minute marker giving you the complete marker as shown at 3 o’clock.

· Strap made from full skin hand sewn alligator leather.


WINDING
· The watch is automatically wound when worn on the wrist. To start the watch we recommend winding 30 turns in a clockwise direction. Going back and forth will not harm the watch. Once set in motion while you are wearing the watch you will not need to wind the watch. It will be wound automatically from the movement of the wrist. If the watch is not worn for a couple of days then manually wind it again.

HANDSETTING
· Pulling the crown out fully and turn in the desired direction to set the hands.

CHRONOGRAPH FUNCTIONS
· Starting and Stopping: The first push on the upper “hidden” Pusher (at 2 o’clock position) will start the chronograph hand moving. The second push will stop the hand.

· Continuing the timing measurement: Another push on the pusher will restart the hand again for further time measurement.

· Resetting to Zero: Once the chronograph has been stopped and the elapsed time noted, pushing on the lower “hidden” pusher (at 4 o’clock) will return all chronograph hands back to the starting position. 

· Sub dials/counters: The sub dial or counter at 12 o’clock registers the minutes the chronograph has marched. Every time the chronograph hand comes up to the 60 mark the minute register will jump to the next minute therefore counting the number of minutes that has elapsed. The sub dial at 6 o’clock does the same for the hours up to 12 hours.

Friday, March 26, 2021

The Avant-garde 0279

 From Raketa -

Courtesy of Raketa
A limited edition of 300 pieces, priced at 1350€

The case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and is pvd treated stainless steel.

The movement is Raketa's 2615 which is self-winding (automatic) boasting 40 hours of power reserve.  Sapphire crystal front, mineral crystal back.

Raketa Avant-garde 0279

Thursday, March 25, 2021

Henki is EVERYWHERE!

Okay, I have already received, surprisingly, A LOT of concerned messages asking why I was closing down Tempus Fugit, and I want to quickly point out that Tempus Fugit is still very much alive and well.

As mentioned, the only real thing that has changed is that I will no longer be doing reviews.  I will still write about watches, the industry, etc.  I will simply no longer do reviews (a week on the wrist, etc.) as I do not feel that they are anything more than marketing activities (both for the brand, and the reviewer).

Courtesy of Amazon

One of my favorite all-time books is Carter Beats The Devil. In one instance, Charles Carter (a once famous magician) is plotting his comeback, but wants it to be a surprise. So rather than a traditional poster announcing the show, he has a poster created that says at the top:

"Carter the Great"

In the main part of the poster an image of Charles Carter in stage costume, and then at the very bottom:

"EVERYWHERE!"

Again, I truly appreciate the kind messages, and sorry Watch Town - I'm not done yet ; )

             Henki


                            EVERYWHERE!

Not So Much A Review - A Meditation on the Corum Bubble and Severin Wunderman

So this review marks a bit of an ending, but also a beginning of sorts. And it has raised one crucial question - either I've been doing this too long, or I have finally gotten to the place that I wanted to be.

So here it is, the last review at Tempus Fugit -
The Bubble is a watch that has, in truth, haunted me for YEARS. And to that extent, this VERY long review has actually been more of a meditation on the Bubble and what it meant and what it still means.

It is safe to say that without Severin Wunderman there would be no Bubble. But that is short sighted, because in truth? Without Severin Wunderman there would likely not be a Corum today. And to put it more plainly, I still find it funny that when the "noted watch journalists" roll out their lists of innovators who changed the watch business with their designs, or their business acumen, Severin Wunderman is really almost an after thought, and that is simply nuts. 

At the time he took over Corum, he took over what was, if we are all honest about it, a shell of what it had been. And prevailing wisdom would have held that you simply air out and play your greatest hits. But Mr. Wunderman had a different idea. And when the Bubble hit, it came out around the same time as the Trapeze and a few other ideas that are maybe best left in the past. But the Bubble, though maligned by some as sacrilegious, planted the flag for what Corum would become.

And then just as suddenly as it arrived, it disappeared. Corum had shifted again, and all thoughts of the Bubble appeared to have been effectively banished. 

I started Tempus Fugit going on 11 years ago, and at that time the Bubble had, well, burst. Mr. Wunderman passed away in 2008, 2 years before Tempus Fugit began so I never had the opportunity to meet him. But the thing about icons, is that they are, well, iconic. There are a lot of cool designs out there, but a cool design, on its own, is like an orphan.  It needs a champion to introduce it to the world and help it reach its potential. 

Then BaselWorld 2015 rolled around. I remember seeing 3 Bubbles lurking under a small drop cloth in the booth during a group presentation. And my hunch about the identity of the shrouded Corum proved to be correct, the Bubble had come back again. Which nearly brings us up to today.

I have seen a lot happen in the world of watches over the past 10 (PLUS) years. I have reviewed a fair amount of timekeepers, and through that process I have come to realize that ultimately there is really no such thing as a truly objective review, and more often than not, a review isn't really even that. Titles like "Hands On" only really tell you that the "reviewer" has seen and held a given watch, but most likely not worn it beyond the "showroom". Add to that the money changing hands (sometimes subtly, sometimes not so much), and it occurs to me that the watch review has grown into more of a marketing effort than an attempt to gain much factual insight.
As I said at the beginning of this post, I have either been doing this too long, or I have finally arrived at the place I want to be.
I once went on a job interview where I was asked -
"What's your favorite ice cream flavor?"
For the record - it's pistachio. And in many ways I would say that if TODAY'S Corum Bubble had a demographic of sorts, it would be the pistachio crowd.  If you think about it, pistachio is a bit broader in scope than the big three - chocolate, vanilla or strawberry (Rolex, Patek and Omega). But it is also not so "off the rails" and pleading for attention and shock value like Rocky Road, or Bubblegum (HYT). It's a (now) standard size and shape (albeit its own unique one), and can now act as a canvas that can be used to paint a lot of different stories. My all-time favorite Bubble illustrates the Ying and Yang or duality of the Bubble -
Courtesy of Prestige Time
Truly the world on your wrist, with the (very) domed sapphire crystal emphasizing that the world is, indeed, round.

All good things inevitably must come to an end, and my time with this particular Bubble is now up.

So for those tuning in late, this is the Bubble Baron Samedi/Voodoo 47MM. The Baron Samedi has come in a few iterations, and if my sources are correct, this was part of a later series (2016) with the original debuting in 2006 (if memory serves).

So let's talk about size. The current Bubble collection has definitely increased in size. But curious to relate, what would normally be oppressively huge on my wrist was actually not so bad -

In large part, this is due to a lovely curving of the lugs. They almost hug the wearer's wrist.
The movement is self-winding (Automatic)-
The strap is rubber and very, very comfortable.

The case is of stainless steel, and even with a non-screw down crown the watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance.

The timekeeping was beyond reproach, and I have to admit, I truly enjoyed the double takes that my companion, the Baron Samedi drew from passers by, even during these days of COVID thinned crowds.

So is the Corum Bubble for you? If it were 2000 - 2003 I think the answer would be a resounding "Hells Yeah!".  That's the thing about being an "it" watch. At that time it was a pretty easy sell, and when I was working at Tourneau I was frustrated that we didn't have the Bubble (they were reserved for Neiman Marcus, just down the street from us), because I could have sold the heck out of them.

But the beauty of the Bubble today is that in many ways, it has now transcended that time and place - the turn of the century. It is not trying to please everyone, and like pistachio ice cream is not going to  be such an obvious choice. 

But then again, if you are reading Tempus Fugit, chances are that you don't necessarily bob along in the water with all the other floaters, drifting from trend to trend ; )

As for me? Well, if these past months have done anything, they have confirmed my love for the Bubble. And for me, that love is not a really something that can be proven empirically. To a large extent, you either get today's Bubble, or you don't. And I get it.  Or to quote that other great commentator on watches - Chaka Khan:
"I feel for you."

So from the review bureau at Tempus Fugit, this is your old pal Henki signing off.

Enjoy your watches!