Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Love Overdue - A Week with the Lip Himalaya 40 mm Mecanique

Full disclosure, I am a long-term fan of Lip.  I visited the factory in Besançon 4 years ago, and I am somewhat pre-disposed to like what they do.  I recently had the opportunity to wear and review one of their watches and I have to say that I am a reaffirmed fan.


This is the Lip Himalaya 40 mm Mecanique.  It does not have a chronograph, an alarm, is not solar powered, does not make coffee ; )

The Himalaya originally appeared in the Lip collection from 1954 to 1973.  It has made a comeback over the past few years and today is available in a few different versions.

In other words?  It is a watch!  Hours, minutes, seconds and date.  The case is of stainless steel, and measures 40 mm in diameter.  The movement is a mechanical one. 


Now it bears mentioning that this is a Miyota movement.  The interesting part of this movement's winding action is that it does not achieve a "full" wind stopping point when winding.  What does that mean, exactly?  Essentially that you can wind and wind, but you will not feel the tension growing, resistance increasing, and finally find yourself unable to wind it further.  Also?  You will never over-wind or break the spring!  Over the past week I have wound 20 - 25 times and call it done, and the power reserve has been great.

ON THE FACE OF IT


It would be simple (and accurate) to say that the Himalaya Mecanique had me at "hello".  The dial is beautiful in its simplicity.  And remember, here at Tempus Fugit simple isn't dumb, it's beautiful.  The dial is laid out with applied numbers (a personal favorite), with minute/second indices in between.


The hands are elegantly, and appropriately long and shapely.  The second hand is tipped red.  These are little details, but for me they really add that certain je ne sais quoi to a wonderful watch.

The date window is another point of joy for me. 

Clear, well-defined and easy to read.  Moreover, what I find more and more is that the date window is an after-thought.  And that is the case with big, small and micro brands.  How often is the number or marker where the date window appears either partially, or fully obscured due to lazy design?  This is a truly satisfying dial to look at.


The strap is a wonderful soft, of brown leather.


The buckle is branded, subtle and a perfect match for the watch as a whole.

And the little details matter -


So let's get down to brass tacks, how much is this all going to cost you?

€399.00

That's just a wee bit under $450 by this morning's conversion rate.

The time keeping was steady, the comfort of the watch was beyond reproach, and the value for money can't really be argued with.  Is it for you?  Well, that is something down to the individual, to be sure.  Me?  I am a bit of a romantic.  I have visited the Lip facility, I have walked the streets of Besançon, seen the Silberstein clock, had (a few) beer/s with the students in the college bars.  This one speaks to me.


Monday, October 28, 2019

The Admiral AC-ONE 45 Openworked Tourbillon

From Corum -


Courtesy of Corum
Here are the pertinents -
ADMIRAL AC-ONE 45 OPENWORKED TOURBILLON
Limited Edition : 38 pieces

Here are the pertinents -

  • Movement CO 298 - Automatic 
  • Case 45 mm - Titanium 
  • Dial Brass - Dauphine-variant, Rhodium-coated, Skeleton 
  • Bracelet Bi-material - 23/20 mm 
  • Buckle Triple folding clasp - Titanium





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After a great deal of thought and consideration, I have made the decision to eliminate any further outside advertising from brands, and shift to a platform that will allow anyone to support Tempus Fugit.  

If you enjoy Tempus Fugit, please consider becoming a supporter through Patreon.

You can find the Tempus Fugit Patreon page here -

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It's been a great (nearly) ten years, and here's to the next ten!

Tempus Fugit!

Tiffany to... LVMH?

Stay tuned!

Mido on Monday - A Vintage Multifort

So as it happens, my go-to watchmaker has a massive amount of vintage and discarded watches.  I had dropped off the Multi-Star for a heart transplant and what did I discover as I looked through one of his bins?


A gold filled Multifort, and I am guessing around 34 mm (to be honest, I haven't bothered to measure it yet).

He opened it up, and under the hood was a bumper movement -


If my watch maker and I got it right, the movement is noted as Mido 917.


Needless to say, this guy got a lot of wear, a lot of use.  And it seemed a real shame to see it languishing in the "donor" box, waiting to have it's parts harvested...


So a deal was struck, a new strap selected, and to quote that other great commentator on the watch industry, Boz Skaggs, I put my money on the table and drove it off the lot.

Ultimately, a watch only really needs to appeal to an audience of one.  And this one hits me right where I live.


Enjoy your watches!

Saturday, October 26, 2019

The BR03-92 Diver Bronze Navy Blue

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
A model made just for the Americas, the BR03-92 Diver Bronze Navy Blue is limited to 250 pieces.  

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
Here are the pertinents -

Limited edition of 250 pieces

Movement: 
calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: 
hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 
42 mm in diameter. Satin-polished CuSn8 bronze. Unidirectional rotating solid bronze bezel with 60-minute scale.

Dial: 
blue. Gold-plated applique indices with Super-LumiNova® inserts. Gold-plated skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hands.

Crystal: 
sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 
300 metres.

Straps: 
blue calfskin leather and black rubber.

Buckle: 
pin. Bronze.


Thursday, October 24, 2019

The Shell Star - In Bronze

From DELMA -

Courtesy of Delma


Courtesy of Delma

Courtesy of Delma

Here are the pertinents -

Caliber:
Delma custom rotor, ETA 2824-2
Power reserve (h):
38h
Number of jewels:
25
Frequency:
28'800 A/h
Case material:
Bronze
Case back:
Stainless steel with transparent mineral crystal
Size in mm:
44
Height in mm:
13.8
Weight in grams:
147
Water resistance:
50 ATM / 500 m / 1650 ft
Bezel:
Bronze, unidirectional diver bezel
Lug size in mm:
24
Bracelet material:
Genuine leather
Clasp:
Buckle
Clasp material:
Bronze
Functions:
Date, helium valve, Unidirectional diver bezel
Additional features:
luminous bezel numbers, luminous hands/numbers/indexes, screw-down crown
Limited Edition
500 pieces


Wednesday, October 23, 2019

A Few Minutes with Robert-Jan Broer

Now, contrary to popular belief, the people who write about watches are not all "BFFs".  There is a certain amount of competition, professional envy and occasional mischief and skulduggery that goes with the territory.  But there are a handful of people out there who are pretty much universally liked.  And today's interview topic is one of those people.  Robert-Jan Broer started with a pretty simple idea and developed it into one of the most respected sources for watch news.  Thanks to the work he and his colleagues have put in, Fratello is definitively a go-to resource for people around the world.  And me personally?  I am proud to call him my friend.

And now, a few minutes with Robert-Jan Broer -

Courtesy of Fratello

JH - What was your first watch?  Was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

RJB - The first watch that I can really remember wearing, was a digital watch. Not a Casio, but just some cheap thing with a black strap with white and blue colors on the front. When I was 9 years old or so I got my first Casio during a holiday with my parents in 1986. I vividly remember buying that one, at a Dixons (electronics) shop in the UK. I was in love with that watch, and you know what? I still have it and always make sure it works. My first ‘real’ watch was an Omega Constellation I received in 1998 from my mother. It was an emotional moment, as I finished my secondary vocational education and was about to leave the house to go to university in The Hague. She wanted to give me something special, something that would tell me when it was time to go home (to her) but also to remember. It was a gift out of love. I cherish that watch and still occasionally wear it. It also shows where the love for this brand, and this model comes from. My great-grandfather had an Omega (Constellation), my grandparents, my parents and now me. 


JH - Tell us a bit about you - where did you grow up?  What did you study in school?

RJB - I grew up in the east part of The Netherlands, near the German border. In fact, in the small village I lived in, shops often had prices in two currencies. Deutsch Marks and Dutch guilders. My father was working for this accountancy firm and my mother worked as a secretary for various companies. I lived in two different places when I was young, very close to each other. After high school, I did this secondary vocational education in IT. Think system administrator, network engineer, and software development. I quickly found out that I didn’t want to become active in those fields. With a schoolmate and friend, we decided to go to university in The Hague and I got my ‘ingenieur’ title in Information Management. After that, I did a post-graduate in IT auditing. So, nothing to do with journalism or writing in general (other than boring management reports).

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you grew up?

RJB - Other kids always had their answers ready: police officer, fireman, detective, pilot, nurse etc. I didn’t. I didn’t know what I wanted to be, so I just echoed the other kids. Funny, I just remember that for a certain period, I wanted to become cartoonist. Almost no-one knows (until now J), but I can draw quite nicely. I sometimes draw a bit for my daughter, an existing comic character or something I come up with on the spot. However, I also realized I wasn’t good enough to really pursue this. Lack of talent, unfortunately. Anyway, when I was 15 or 16 years old, I decided I wanted to be active in IT. So that’s the direction I went into, and actually had a job in IT (for an investment bank) until 2011.

JH - When we were in a group meeting some years back, we were discussing what got us all into writing about watches in the first place, and you said to clarify - "what was the trigger?"
I've always loved that expression, by the way.  So, for you, what was the trigger?

RJB - Well, I always loved reading magazines. Computer magazines, photography magazines, car magazines, and watch magazines. I was always reading. Watches being my passion at young age, those magazines had my absolute preference. German magazines, Dutch magazines and the US WatchTime, for example. I studied those harder than any of my schoolbooks. With the knowledge I gained from watch magazines and books, I also started to participate on watch forums. It was late 1990s, and there were only few big ones out there, like TimeZone, WatchUseek etc. It was also around the same time I started to collect watches, my Speedmaster Professional being the perfect start in 1999. From that moment on, I bought Bulovas, IWCs, Omegas, and many other brands at watch trade shows and via eBay, for example. After a while (in 2004), I decided it was time to start my own platform, where I would be in control over my own produced pieces on watches. I already had registered fratellowatches.com in 2002 or 2003 (initially I wanted to use it to sell pre-owned watches) and decided to use it for a blog about watches. With my background in IT, installing the Wordpress CMS on a webserver was a piece of cake and I just started writing. And never stopped.

JH - You are known far and wide for being Mr. Omega Speedmaster.  What is about the Speedmaster that originally pulled you in?  Or to quote you, what was the trigger?

RJB - Apparently so, and quite logical, as it is the watch that started this craziness for me, and basically changed my life (from having a boring job at a bank to traveling the world, discovering new watches, organizing events etc.). It is a story I’ve told many times during our Speedy Tuesday events, but it was actually my dad who always told me that Omega was the brand that astronauts were wearing on the Moon. I was 11 or so when he told me, so I didn’t realize what it took in the 1960s for mankind to travel to the Moon. I also didn’t know which watch it exactly was (only later on I learned that my father exactly knew that it was the Speedmaster). So when I got more serious about watches in the 1990s, an Omega catalog that I received from a jeweler explained the entire story. Besides the story about being the Moonwatch, I just felt (and still do) that it was one of the cleanest looking chronographs out there: very readable, and a timeless design. I didn’t have the funds to buy one, but in 1999 – while being a student – I found one for sale in The Hague and freed up some funds (= selling my car) to buy it. I still have it today; it is a 145.012-67 from 1968 with a caliber 321. At the time I bought it, much cheaper than a new one. Something you can hardly imagine today. A lot has changed.

Courtesy of Fratello
JH - You've seen a lot of them and you've worn a lot of them, so in your opinion - Best Ever Speedmaster?

Courtesy of Fratellow
RJB - I am pretty sure it isn’t the honeymoon period that speaks now, as I will say it is the gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI 50th anniversary from this year. I’ve never spent so much money on a watch, and I only did so because I believe it is the best executed Speedmaster up to today. I even prefer it over the original gold version from 1969 (BA145.022), as the quality is much higher today and the pale color of the gold alloy is just breathtaking. But, and this is a big but, if I were to choose one Speedmaster to wear for the rest of my life, it would be the normal steel Moonwatch with a Hesalite (plexi) crystal. It is a perfect watch, a direct descendent from the one that was actually worn on the Moon and quite affordable (still). 

JH - And in the interest of journalistic integrity, what Speedmaster (past or present) in your estimation fell short?

RJB - Haha, there’s always the journalistic integrity thing coming up. Mainly from other journalists. And interestingly enough, a lot of them are wearing that same ol’ Rolex for over a decade now, yet they write the most poetic texts on the watches they review. Anyway, I think there’s a little distinction to be made here. I collect Speedmasters, that’s my passion, or hobby. I write about watches and the watch industry, also a passion, but that’s also my job. I know I started to mix it up myself, by writing every week (on a Tuesday) about Speedmasters, but I am always conscious of the integrity required for executing my job in the best way possible. Omega also never paid me to write a Speedy Tuesday article, or tried to influence the writing, or criticized me for having a strong opinion towards a specific Speedmaster (or another Omega watch). 

Courtesy of Fratello

A bit of a long introduction to my answer, but I feel that a number of Speedmasters actually fell short. For different reasons, with some, I don’t think the design was good. For example, the Broad Arrow series with automatic movement. Or the Speedmaster Professional ‘Moon to Mars’, although some seem to like it. With some, I think the marketing efforts fell short. Like the Z-33 model (now discontinued), a beautiful watch, but very niche and there was only little ‘advertising’ around this piece. The biggest flaw was with the Dark Side of the Moon series. The first one was awesome, the Grey Side of the Moon was a neat variation as well, but then they came with an entire series of variations (including some all-white ones) that just diluted the original Dark Side of the Moon. Even though you can find a nice execution amongst them, I think it is a pity they did them. However, I think the Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8, with the hand-wound movement and the beautiful laser engraved movement was a true and rich additional watch to that series. The others, not so much. People also tend to complain about the limited edition series of the Moonwatch, and to a certain extent I agree. But, and this is a big but, people – like me – who collect the Speedmaster, would be quickly done when there’s only the Moonwatch. I like to add the occasional limited edition, as it is a nice variation on the theme, as long as it is done properly. Like the Snoopy from 2015, the Apollo XI models from 2009 onwards, the white dial Alaska and the Gemini IV, for example. All neat versions. It is just not necessary to create 6 new limited editions per year. But I also get that companies like Omega that need to make money, they can’t exist on the few collectors that complain about everything that’s not vintage. 

JH - You have truly become an ambassador (in the best possible way) for Omega and the Speedmaster.  In this role you get to travel around and meet some interesting people.  Again - who was the most interesting person you have met in this role?

RJB - You might expect I’d say Buzz Aldrin, Thomas Stafford (who is definitely my favourite Apollo astronaut), Charlie Duke, Gene Cernan, Jim Lovell or even Daniel Craig. Although it is an honor to meet these guys, I’ve met some awesome collectors and fans and some of their stories meant a lot to me. I mean, a lot of these ambassador guys have cool stories to tell, or awesome experiences to share (like walking on the Moon), but sometimes the very personal stories I hear from collectors and fans are truly moving. 
Courtesy of Fratello 
Real stories, from real customers who spend their hard-earned money on a Speedmaster. They write me about their Speedmasters and what it means to them to own one. Or telling me stories on wearing their precious Speedmaster during the most beautiful moments in their life, or during the darkest. The human aspect is what makes these stories so beautiful, or sad, but at least emotional. The watch never comes on the first place in these stories but has an important or – at least – meaningful role. Over the course of time, I made quite some friends during these encounters. 

JH - With the Speedy Tuesday collaboration, you have taken an important (but at the time, under appreciated) model and turned it into a star.  Did you see all of this turning out the way that it has?

Courtesy of Fratello
RJB - No, not really. Not sure the Moonwatch was under appreciated, but perhaps it was with a big audience. To me, it always was one of the most important watches out there. You have to understand that the Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday watch was something nobody knew about. It was only the Omega management and us, Fratello. Even the brand managers, boutique managers etc, nobody was aware. So, we basically had no sound board, we did what we thought would be a very cool execution of the Speedmaster, with a clear link to the radial dial project Alaska III watch that Omega designed and delivered to NASA in 1978. We didn’t want to exactly replicate that watch, so we thought about making it a reverse panda dial. With just a few iterations (if I’d say two, it would also ready be much), we had the final product (I actually hate that word for a watch) in our hands. It was super exciting, and I remember that Raynald Aeschlimann (CEO of Omega) walked over to me during an Omega event and asked me casually how many pieces we should actually do. I told him, and this shows we didn’t see the success coming, 300 or perhaps even 500 pieces would be good. But I am happy his experience in the industry told him that we should do more, so we came up with 2012 pieces, to commemorate the founding year of Speedy Tuesday.

JH - Outside of Omega, what is one, or some of the brands and/or models that you admire?

RJB - Oh, I admire many watches and brands. I admire the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet, the Lange 1 from A. Lange & Söhne, the Santos by Cartier, the Navitimer from Breitling, Patek’s 3940 perpetual calendar, all the cult watches basically. I admire Grand Seiko as a brand, how much effort they put into finishing a watch to almost an extent that it doesn’t make sense anymore (cost wise). Or Nomos, for their fun way of communicating and the price-quality ratio they deliver. Oris for being a fun brand and creating watches like the 65 and Big Crown Pilot, but also to show their capabilities with their in-house developed movements. I also admire Seiko, Swatch and GShock. To me, it isn’t about the price or prestige only, it is about the fun that collecting or buying these watches can bring you.

I guess I also need to mention the crown. I admire Rolex for many things, but I also feel they are mocking their clients by not delivering their pieces and allowing (and I use the word allowing as they should know about these things) their official retailers to sell young pre-owned for twice or triple the retail value (who tells me that it wasn’t stock they kept in their safes all along?) or offer a Daytona to their best clients with a little premium? That’s just bad.

Last but certainly not least, I really admire some of the independent watchmakers. It is a pity we don’t cover them as much as I would like to, but this will change soon, I hope. There’s so much to discover from these brands, but it is a relatively small crowd that is interested and even a smaller crowd that is able to purchase one of these beauties. But yeah, one of the shortcomings at the moment is the lack of writing about these independents 

JH - There is a whole new generation of watch collectors and enthusiasts coming through looking to learn.  You have become a benchmark for many of them to learn about the Speedmaster, Omega and to some extent Seiko.  What other resources out there do you recommend for those looking to know more?

Courtesy of Fratello

RJB - I still believe that a lot of knowledge can be gained from the existing forums out there: OmegaForums.net, TimeZone, WatchUseek etc. The problem is that besides very knowledgeable people on there, you will also find a of things written that are simply not true. Assumptions, guesses and statements based on faulty (or outdated) information. That’s all not an issue, as long as it is stated and not presented to you as facts. On websites such as Speedmaster101, OmegaPassion.com, and calibre1040.com, you will find information that is fact-checked and can be used as guidelines. That said, you can’t expect to know everything there is to know, and especially not by reading a few books or websites. You need to go out there, go to collectors’ meetings, auctions, (Omega’s) museum etc. It will take time and even then, you still will find yourself learning new things every day. It never stops. Also due to the fact that the Omega museum for example, still finds new stuff in their archives (or in NASA’s) all the time. It sometimes makes previous statements obsolete, as new information came to the surface. It is an on-going process. Nobody expects you to know everything there is to know about Speedmasters, but also don’t claim you’re the expert. Nobody is (and yet, a lot of people state they are). I think most important thing is to stay sane and sometimes it helps to step out of the bubble and look at things from a distance to give it some perspective.

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

RJB - I don’t know and there’s no plan b. In the last years of my work at this investment bank, I shifted a bit more towards the business side of things, so perhaps a consultancy role. Today, if I had to do something else, I’d probably be working for a watch brand or company that’s related to the watch industry (an auction house, or a company like Chrono24). In the end it is a very cool industry to be in, you’ll see interesting watches, great (and less great) marketing topics and you meet passionate people. I feel very fortunate to be part of it and it has brought me a lot.

JH - What advice do you have for the aspiring Robert-Jan Broers out there?

RJB - Don’t have a plan b. Go for it, but not at all cost. Sometimes you also will find out that things aren’t working as you’ve planned, then you need to change your strategy and act accordingly. And, collect very good people around you. You can’t do it alone, you need a team of people you can rely on, who are – perhaps – better than you in certain areas. Have thick skin, sometimes people can be downright mean for no reason, and don’t realize they get all this information free of charge, and that a lot of hours have gone into it. Don’t fight the keyboard warriors and bedroomboy123 members, just shrug your shoulders, roll your eyes and keep on going. Always make sure to listen to your readers though, those who give you honest and fair feedback are truly valuable for your work. But most of all, have fun and make sure it stays fun.

Monday, October 21, 2019

Mido on Monday - Multi Star Rescue Project

Now in the interest of crystal clear disclosure, this is not an intact Mido Multi Star.  This is, in fact, a NOS (New Old Stock) case, dial, crown and hand set.  Like the Tin Man, it's got no heart!


So the brief is simple, I will be reaching out to my watch maker to find a "donor" heart, get new gaskets, and put this beauty together.  

Stay tuned.

Saturday, October 19, 2019

Florida - Miami

From Symons & Panchenko -

Courtesy of Symons & Panchenko
Normally we focus a lot on either mechanical or very technical quartz watches.  But sometimes?  Sometimes we need to be reminded that watches can be fun!

Symons and Panchenko have taken that idea to heart with their latest collection, Florida-Miami.

A gold tone (pvd) stainless steel case, rated to 100 meters of water resistance, powered by a miyota quartz movement.

Available in five color ways -


Courtesy of Symons & Panckenko


Courtesy of Symons & Panchenko


Courtesy of Symons & Panchenko


Courtesy of Symons & Panchenko


Courtesy of Symons & Panchenko

Suggested retail is approximately $177 US.



Thursday, October 17, 2019

Bell & Ross // ONLY WATCH 2019

This is the ONLY WATCH entry from 
Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The BR05 SKELETON GOLD BLUE will fly the flag for Bell & Ross this year in Monaco.

Here are the pertinents -

REF. BR05A-OW-PG-SK/SRB
                     
Movement: 
Calibre BR-CAL.322. 
Automatic mechanical

Functions: 
Hours, minutes and seconds

Case:
40 mm diameter
Satin-polished 18K rose gold
Sapphire caseback

Dial:
Blue skeleton
Rose gold applique indices coated in 
Super- LumiNova®

Crystal:
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Water-resistance:
100 meters

Strap:
Blue Rubber

Wednesday, October 16, 2019

Shorokhoff Crossing

From Alexander Shorokhoff -
Courtesy of Alexander Shorokhoff
The case measures 43.5 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.  The movement is from ETA, but enhanced with a jump hour module provided by Dubios-Depraz.

This is limited to 25 pieces in two different color codes.  Suggested retail is $4,995 in the US. 

Monday, October 14, 2019

Don't Call It A Comeback! Alain Silberstein Returns with Louis Erard!

There are a few people in the watch business who are truly missed when they leave or take a break.  One of them is Alain Silberstein.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
Regardless of whether you're into old school divers, gold 2 handers or G-Shocks, it is likely that at one time or another, you have clapped eyes on a Silberstein watch and felt something pull you in.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
Well, if you missed out back in the day, and your a little less than certain about buying pre-owned?  Well here's your chance!

This is the Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein -

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Movement Manual winding regulator with power reserve, ETA Peseux 7001 movement with Louis Erard RE9 complication, 10½’’’, Ø23.30 mm (Ø26.00 mm with module), height: 2.5 mm (4.7 mm with module), 17 jewels, 21,600 VpH (3Hz). Around 42 hours of power reserve. Top grade movement, Côtes de Genève decoration, blue screws and Louis Erard engraving

Functions HMS + power reserve
Hour hand on counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand on counter at 6 o’clock, power reserve hand at 9 o’clock.

Case 
Stainless steel or stainless steel + black PVD, Ø40 mm, 3 parts, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, case back with screws, top grade movement visible through the transparent case back, water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft). Specially-decorated case back crystal: Alain Silberstein X Louis Erard 1 of 178.

Dial 
Black and white matte or opaline (matte silver)

Hands 
Signature hands designed by Alain Silberstein. Red lacquered hour hand, yellow or blue lacquered minute hand, blue or yellow lacquered seconds hand, white or grey lacquered power reserve hand.

Strap 
Black calf leather with signature stitching in red or brown calf leather with signature stitching in blue, pin buckle in stainless steel or stainless steel + black PVD.

Collaboration Watches developed in collaboration with Alain Silberstein in two limited editions of 178 pieces.


Saturday, October 12, 2019

Boom!

News dropped this morning that there is a NEW movement manufacturer, producing a viable option to the 2824!

Courtesy of Atelier

And as big news like this should come straight from the source, here it is:

Courtesy of Atelier

Washington, DC (USA), October 2019 – 
Atelier, a new movement manufacture in America, is introducing an automatic watch movement to the North American market.
Atelier is a U.S.- Swiss venture that is closely collaborating on establishing the supply, assembly, and manufacturing of automatic movements in the U.S. One of the objectives of the U.S.- Swiss alliance that led to the creation of Atelier was to develop an 11 1⁄2 caliber suitable for the volume market in the U.S. The result is the Caliber 1. With ETA ceasing to supply third party clients on 31 December 2019, many brands in the U.S. are seeking alternative suppliers. The Caliber 1 is not a clone of a pre-existing caliber, however it is a drop-in replacement for popular calibers brands are currently using.

The Caliber 1 has been in development for the past four years with U.S. involvement for three of those four years. Atelier’s Swiss technology partner is one of the few manufacturers in the Swiss watch industry that has achieved horological independence with the internal production and manufacture of hairsprings and the escapement. Everything is made in- house, except for the jewels, barrel springs and shock- absorbers with all parts made to the highest industry standard.

The Caliber 1 is a robust movement that is Chronofiable® Certified with a transversal balance bridge. This allows for stable and precise positioning of the oscillator. The bridge’s rigidity greatly improves shock resistance. The Caliber 1 has a diameter of 25.60mm and a height of 4.60mm, 28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 [Hz], with a power reserve of 44 hours.

Atelier will initially supply Swiss Made movements to brands beginning in January 2020. Atelier will begin assembly and production of small parts and will offer three levels of assembly; Swiss Made, Assembled in the USA, or Made in the USA from domestic and Swiss parts. In the future, Atelier will offer a variety of calibers that will fit the vision of any brand or designer including small seconds, and GMT.

Washington, DC (USA), October 2019Atelier

www.AtelierMovements.com
Obviously, this is breaking news, so there will be more info in the coming days.

Any watch fans within hailing distance of Washington DC?  RUN, don't walk to District Time to check it out in person!