The New NOMOS Color - Blue

Nomos today unveiled a new color code for their Neomatk collections -

Courtesy of NOMOS

And as we believe in savoring nice things, we're going to show them to you one at a time.
This is the neomatik nachtblau Metro -

Courtesy of NOMOS

I will say that the blue is quite beguiling and the accent colors on the dial itself are quite well chosen.

Courtesy of NOMOS

Here ar the pertinents -

The watch
Case: 
stainless steel, bipartite
domed sapphire crystal glass and sapphire crystal glass back
diameter 35.0 mm, height 8.06 mm
Dial: 
lacquered, midnight blue; green print
Hands: 
rhodium-plated; neon orange lacquered seconds hand
Water-resistant: 
to 3 atm
Strap: 
black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan, 
remborde and hand-stitched, 
lug width 17 mm; NOMOS buckle clasp
Reference number: 1110 

The movement

DUW 3001—in-house built NOMOS caliber with automatic winding; 
NOMOS swing system with tempered blue bal- ance spring. 
(DUW stands for: NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke.)
Diameter: 12 3⁄4 lines (28.8 mm) Movement height: 3.2 mm 
Power reserve: approx. 42 hours
Characteristics: decentralized seconds, stop-seconds mechanism, 
Glashütte three-quarter plate, NOMOS balance bridge, 27 jewels, 
bidirectional winding rotor, Incabloc shock protection, 
DUW regulation system, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, 
rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage 

The BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Instrument De Marine

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the second of the three new pieces from Bell & Ross, and it is a stunner!
Limited to only 20 pieces, so this prize will go to the swift and decisive collectors out there.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement:

calibre BR-CAL.283.
Hand-wound flying tourbillon.
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph.
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph. 4-day power reserve.

Functions:
hours and minutes.

Chronograph: 30-min timer at 11 o’clock, 

chronograph 60-sec timer at 1 o’clock. 

Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. 

Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

Case:
45 mm diameter.

18 ct rose gold and precious wood. 

Rocker push-button. 

Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating.

Dial:

grey-tinted sapphire crystal. 

Gilt appliqué indices with Superluminova inserts. 

Gilt skeleton Superluminova-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal:

anti-reflective sapphire.

Water Resistance:

100 Meters.

Stap:

brown alligator.

Buckle:

pin,  18 ct rose gold.

The BR 01 Instrument De Marine

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is one of the three new pieces offered by Bell & Ross in the latest iteration of their Instrument collection. And as there are three, they are all pretty swell, we'll be sharing them one at a time.

Movement:
calibre BR-CAL.203.
Hand-wound mechanical. 1
7 jewels, 21,600 vph. 56-hours power reserve.

Functions:
hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock.


Case:
46 mm diameter. Precious wood, titanium and CuSn8
bronze.


Dial:
white lacquer. Roman numerals. Blued hands.


Crystal:
anti-reflective sapphire.


Water-resistance:
100 metres.


Strap:
brown alligator.


Buckle:
pin. Bronze.

Repeat - A Few Minutes with Hajime Asaoka

This originally ran in 2011 -


When thinking about innovative, creative and original watch makers, your mind might first travel to Switzerland, Germany, or France... in other words, Europe. And what of Japan?

And now a few minutes with Hajime Asaoka

Courtesy of Hajime Asaoka

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Hajime Asaoka - It was a Citizen automatic chronograph watch - a gift from my father when I entered junior high school.  At that time quartz movement watches were big in the market, but I chose an automatic watch.


JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

HA -   I wanted to be a product designer or a person really producing something. 

JH -  Where did you go to school, what did you study?

HA -  I studied product design at Tokyo University of Arts.  The university specializes in making the best goods in Japan and I studied not only product design, but how to actually make many different things/products.

Courtesy of Hajime Asaoka

JH - I lived and worked for a few years in  Kasukabe (Saitama-Ken), and Hachioji in Tokyo and was impressed by the way that traditional craftsmanship had been preserved from generation to generation, passed on from father to son.  Who did you learn watch making from?

HA -  I learned by myself to make watches by studying the book, Watchmaking by George Daniels.  I had a lot of experience using machines from my student days in university.

JH - Did you ever consider doing something else for a living?

HA -  Basically, I am a product designer.  So, making watches does not bring income, I was supposed to be a product designer.

Courtesy of Hajime Asaoka

JH - Living and working in Japan what are some of the advantages that you have?

HA -  All of the tools and information are available to me here in Japan,  so the working environment is great!  More importantly, Tokyo is safe, clean and a very good place to make a life.  I am happy with it.

JH -  So as a product designer and watchmaker, what is your favorite creation?  (it doesn't have to be your own)

HA -  A pocket watch by Albert H. Potter.

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?  Who is it that you admire?

HA -  I believe that George Daniels is the best watch maker today.

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think that you might be doing?

HA - Somehow, I am sure that I would be making something.  I am very interested in the watch itself.  And not only this!  I am even more interested in the production and the process.

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Hajime Asaoka?

HA - After I start working at work shop in the afternoon, I will then make watches until midnight.

JH - What do you like to do in your spare time?

HA -  I spend time with my kid and, well, I think about watches!  I am not so interested in other things - I really like working.

JH - What advice do you have for the next Hajime Asaoka out there?

HA -  You can learn logic and theory in books.  But if you do not like the act of production, you can not be a watchmaker.  You should seriouly think if you really like to produce things or not before you decide to be a watch maker.

Learn all about Hajime Asaoka -

www.hajimedesign.com

Something To Carry Your Dreams In

There is something truly cool about a great bag or briefcase.  It can transform you.

Courtesy of Bleu de chauffe

No, a great bag transforms the mundane and makes it heroic.  I used to carry around a bunch of notes outlining the basic ideas for this little blog, and for Tempus Fugit Media.  But the bag helped to  transform those mundane musings into something more.

Courtesy of Bleu de chauffe

So as I embrace the next phase, the next professional evolution, I am looking for just the bag to carry my dreams while they grow and evolve.  And this bag from Bleu de chauffe just might be it!

Earth Shattering News from Ernst Benz!

Yeah, just kidding ; )

When in doubt, grab a co-branding partner and swing 'em round!

Courtesy of Ernst Benz

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls -
The Camaro Fifty Scope from Ernst Benz.

Now in fairness to a LOT of people out there, the Chevrolet Camaro is a very popular piece of automotive iconography.  And having been in on many a pitch meeting myself for co-branded watches, I have no doubt the argument was compelling.  

But truth be told, apart from a disturbing dial and a rather ghostly Chevy logo on the back, this is essentially just like every other Enrst Benz to pop out of the chute.  Which, by the way, is fine.   

Just don't tell me it's different, edgy or bold.  It is a stock watch with a different dial and an overlay print on the back crystal.  And in fairness, if that is what the buying public is after, then Godspeed.

And at the low, low price of $5,700?

Sigh...

So no, this one is not for me.  But as ever, here are the pertinents and judge for yourselves -

CAMARO 50TH ANNIVERSARY 

Limited to 50 Pieces

CALIBER:
Automatic Valjoux 7750 Incabloc
Glucydur Balance
Nivarox Alloy Hairspring

FUNCTIONS:
Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds, Day and Date
Chronograph: Hours, Minutes and Central Seconds

CASE:
47mm Titanium Steel
47mm Brushed Stainless Steel
47mm Black DLC Brushed Stainless Steel
Crown: Knurled, double O-ring sealed Crystal: Domed sapphire glass with
Exhibition back with sapphire glass
Water Resistant: 5 Atmospheres - 50m/165ft 

The Other Grey Market

Pssst!  I've got a secret opportunity for you!

Like any good come on, the pitch from so-called Group or Crowd purchase sites can be some pretty potent catnip for the less-than flush individual desirous of fab items for less $.

On the surface, these seem to be warm 'n fuzzy "communities".  They have discussion groups that are, oftentimes, anchored around a product that they are pushing.  It is a softer approach than Shop At Home TV shows blaring out the merits of the latest Invicta dump, but the idea is still the same -

Get a group of people together, and soft sell them something at a deep discount.  Throw in a "kinder, gentler" discussion forum, and then lure in some fairly well-known, real live brands.

Oh, and the best part?  Minimum 15% off, frequently 25%!  And sometimes, more than 50% off for a brand new, in the box watch!!!

Where do the watches come from?  Some from retailers who need the cash very, very fast.  Some from distributors.  But now, more frequently than not, the actual brands themselves are selling and shipping directly

So, when we are wondering how the watch business really is going, there are a lot of different clues to keep you informed.  The FH report is one, of course, the traditional grey market is another.  And last but by no means least, warm 'n fuzzy little Trojan horses like Touch of Modern or Mass Drop.

Things continue to change and shift.  The situation is bad for the brands, and it is not showing any signs of eminent improvement.

Which, I guess, is good news for the consumer, if they know where to look.

The Sarek Ladies

From GoS -

Courtesy of GoS 

Here are the pertinents -

Specification - GoS Sarek Ladies

• ●  Case: 31.5mmx9mm (5ATM)
  
• ●  Lug width: Single lug, 16mm strap
  
• ●  Glass: Flat sapphire glass with double sided AR coating, extra hard on
  outside
  
• ●  Movement: Soprod A10 with GoS triskele rotor, dark satinized and
  additional rhodinized c-weight
  
• ●  Dial: 164 layered steel Damascus steel with a Pool pattern. Tempered
  coloring of dial results in unique combinations for every dial.
  
• ●  Index ring/rehaut: Two layers that combine previous GoS designs with inspiration from viking bracelets. The polished GoS logo applied to the
  lower ring. Both rings with polished bevels and satinized top surface.
  
• ●  Hands: GoS spear shape in high gloss polished Rhodinated finish.
  
• ●  Crown: GoS design in highgloss polished with satinized grooves. It is
  6.5mm in diameter and has double gaskets.
  
• ●  Case finishing: Stainless steel worked with inspiration from viking rings
  and then highgloss polished to provide lustre.
  
• ●  Strap: 16-14mm in either black moose leather or pastel colored high
  quality leather with stainless steel GoS deployment buckle.
  
• ●  Every watch engraved with “Unique piece 1/1” and a serial number.
  
• ●  Five year guarantee
  
  

A "Smart Watch" that Might Actually be Smart

I have been sitting on the sidelines of the great connected / smart watch debate over the past several months.  Apple continues to set the pace in terms of sales, and continues to befuddle and further confuse the deluded thinking of the brain trust over at Tag Heuer.  Sorry, I am not buying the sales figures being reported.  When I finally see one "in the wild" I will be a lot more likely to believe it.
Moreover, the Apple watch costs a hell of a lot less.  It is, however, essentially an iPhone strapped to the wrist.  Too much information for many of us, and like an iPhone is more of an "of the moment" thing.

For me personally, I am still a fan of the connected watch being offered by Frederique Constant & Alpina.  Many argue that it is, essentially, a Fitbit bundled into a watch, but it does provide some basic functionality that makes sense for the majority of us.  I have not personally tried one out, but I have heard from many that it is quite good, but perhaps a bit ambitiously priced, at north of $1,000 US.  And I would, regrettably agree.  I do feel it is a bit more expensive than it should be.

But there is something out there, not yet released, that might be offering a more personal solution for the person who will actually be wearing a smart / connected watch.

Courtesy of Kronaby

A few weeks back, a Swedish technology company known as Anima sent round a brief press release and some images.  They are clearly playing their cards close to the vest, but what can be gleaned from the pictures is that it is a traditional looking watch.

The watch line has been named Kronaby.  It will be officially launched in late January of 2017 -

or as the count down clock on the Kronaby site informs as of 9:30 this morning:

123 Days

19 Hours

30 Minutes

Courtesy of Kronaby

Okay, other smart watches have nice, classic design.  So what's the big deal?  What will make Kronaby special?

Well, I can only go on what is in the release, but it was the statement by co-founder Saran's Kalogeropulos that stood out.  Now although he does use the dreaded "T Word" (Timepiece), it is the very last sentence that has piqued my curiosity.  

Courtesy of Kronaby

“We have created a timepiece that honours our love for classic watches,” says Sarandis Kalogeropulos. “ A simply beautiful timepiece on the outside, with high-quality materials, a classic dial and hands. On the inside, however, nothing is typical about it. We have developed a new and unique movement, that coupled with the app, can be tailored to individual needs,” says Sarandis Kalogeropulos. 

And that last sentence again:

We have developed a new and unique movement, that coupled with the app, can be tailored to individual needs

Okay, you've got my attention!  We have just under 124 days to go, but this could actually be the first "smart watch" that is actually smart.  

Stay tuned!

Learning the Philosophies of Failure

Yes pals and gals, the export numbers are in for August, and yes, they really suck.

Courtesy of the FHH

This has been discussed beyond endurance, and frankly, I'm talked out (at least for now).

Like the quartz crisis, it will take some outside of the watch box thinking.  When Hayek engineered the Swiss watch rescue he was not coming from inside the industry.  And the Young Turks from that era are now the old guard, and they are having a particularly hard time recognizing and accepting that they clearly do not understand the current world that they are living and working in.

A new brand ambassador, raising retail prices in the UK, continuing to keep dead weight in the sinking boat.  Charisma, flash, or as one rather misguided CEO referred to it as "the sizzle that goes with the steak".  Give me strength...

As that other great watch commentator mused -

We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. 

Albert Einstein

Maybe it's time for some different ideas, some different solutions.  Or we can keep watching the numbers slide.

The New Startimer Pilot Automatic Chronograph

From Alpina -

Courtesy of Alpina

Available in three different dial color options in recognition of three different aviation enterprises.

Courtesy of Alpina

Air Force (black), Naval Aviation (blue) and bush pilots (green).  

44 mm stainless steel case, bi-compax chronograph.  Here are the pertinents -

Reference AL-725GR4S6

Courtesy of Alpina

Case

Stainless steel, 44 mm diameter Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
10 ATM/100m/3300ft water-resistant Engraved back-case
Screwed-in crown

Movement 

AL-725, automatic chronograph movement 25 jewels, 46 hours power reserve, 28,800/h 

Dial 

Green military matte dial with applied light beige luminous indexes Date window at 3’ o clock 

Strap 

Brown genuine leather strap

Functions 

Hours, minutes, seconds, mechanical chronograph, and date at 3 o’clock 

Reference AL-725B4S6

Courtesy of Alpina

Case

Stainless steel, 44 mm diameter Scratch-Resistant sapphire crystal 10 ATM/100m/3300ft water-resistant Engraved back-case

Screwed-in crown

Movement
AL-725, automatic chronograph movement 25 jewels, 46 hours power reserve, 28,800/h 

Dial 

Black matt dial with applied white luminous indexes Date window at 3’ o clock 

Strap 

Black genuine leather strap

Functions 

Hours, minutes, seconds, mechanical chronograph, and date at 3 o’clock 

Reference AL-725N4S6

Courtesy of Alpina

Case

Stainless steel, 44 mm diameter Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
10 ATM/100m/3300ft water-resistant Engraved back-case

Screwed-in crown 

Movement
AL-725, automatic chronograph movement 25 jewels, 46 hours power reserve, 28,800/h 

Dial
Navy blue matt dial with applied light beige luminous indexes Date window at 3’ o clock 

Strap
Brown genuine leather strap 

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, mechanical chronograph, and date at 3 o’clock 

The Diver Chronograph Monaco Limited Edition

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

They could have given us something new, exciting and interesting.  But they've given us so much more...

sigh...

Here are the pertinents -

Reference 

1503-151-7M/93-MON 

Limited edition   -  100 Pieces

Movement 

Caliber UN-150
In-house designed movement Silicium escapement 28’800 v/h 

Power-Reserve 

approximately 48 h 

Winding 

self-winding 

Functions

chronograph with seconds hand in the centre small seconds counter at 9 o’clock
30 minutes counter at 3 o’clock
12-hour counter at 6 o’clock

Date at 6 o’clock 

Case 

stainless steel 

Dial 

blue with diamond pattern, index and hands with the Monaco’s flag colors and counter with the logo of the Principality of Monaco 

Bezel 

rotating and fluted, in stainless steel covered with rubber minutes figures in red 

Crown

screw down security crown, with rubber 

Diameter 

44 mm

Water-resistance 

300 m

Crystal 

anti-reflective sapphire crystal 

Case-back 

sapphire crystal decorated with the logo of the Principality of Monaco 

Bracelet 

stainless steel and folding buckle 

Hublot Shocks the Sporting World...

with yet another professional sports team partnership!  Looking for something new and interesting from Hublot in the way of promotion?  Well this ain't it.

Have you ever desperately wanted to see something interesting, daring, challenging or just plain different in terms of a partnership?  Well, don't worry, this isn't it ; )


So drop everything pals & gals, here's the latest "cutting edge" pr move from the folks in Nyon -

Courtesy of Hublot

Hublot announced a marketing partnership with the New York Giants making the Swiss luxury watch brand the Official Watch and Timekeeper of America’s famed football team. In celebration of the partnership, Jean-François Sberro, Managing Director, Hublot of America, alongside New York Giants wide receiver and fashion icon, Victor Cruz, hosted Manhattan’s first luxury “tailgate”, and unveiled the Classic Fusion Aerofusion timepieces inspired by the New York Giants and which Cruz co-designed.

Courtesy of Hublot

A luxury tailgate?  

Clearly, Hublot is not making watches for most of us.  Maybe that could be a new marketing slogan - 

Hublot, not for most of you!  

But as I've learned over these past years, watch brands are not required to do things that necessarily make sense or resonate with me, or most of the potential buying public for that matter.

Having said that, Hublot seems very excited to have written a check and made some watches.  And they splashed out a ton of money on a ridiculously over-priced cocktail party to allow the rich and famous to imagine what it might be like to be "average Joe's" in the parking lot of the "Met Life" Stadium.  Of course the average Joe is drinking beer, burning hotdogs on a portable Webber grill, and has to drag his ass to work on Monday, but Hublot was able to give some poor rich folks the opportunity to imagine what it might be like...

Giants wide receiver and fashion icon, Victor Cruz, hosted Manhattan’s first luxury “tailgate”, and unveiled the Classic Fusion Aerofusion timepieces inspired by the New York Giants and which Cruz co-designed.

the event took place on a lot nestled between iconic New York City streets, Fifth Avenue and Broadway, with a stellar view of the Empire State Building rising above the skyline, where Hublot hosted friends of the brand, fans of the team, and media. The night offered an elevated take on tailgate traditions, from champagne, Hennessy cocktails, and fine craft beers from AnheuserBusch InBev served from the trunks of classic convertibles, “cornhole” beanbag toss tables, some attendees in Giants jerseys, and a makeshift yet formal bar atop Persian rugs holding flutes of champagne. The food leant itself to the elevated nature of the tailgate, with catering by award-winning Executive Chef Jean-Paul Bourgeois of Danny Meyer’s Blue Smoke barbecue, with grilled menu items including roasted oysters, lobster rolls, shrimp and vegetable skewers, in addition to a selection of smoked items including the chef’s acclaimed baby back ribs, pork shoulder, and whole smoked hog. Music was provided by native New York DJ and Giants fan Paul Sevigny, while guests enjoyed the party under brilliant “Hublot Loves Football” marquee lettering in true New York fashion.

Yes, just like a "real" football fan ; ) 

So as this is supposed to be a blog about watches, here are the details on the actual watch -

ABOUT THE CLASSIC FUSION AEROFUSION TITANIUM LIMITED NEW YORK EDITION 

Reference:
525.NX.0123.VR.NYG16

Limitation:
XX/40

Diameter:
45 mm

Thickness:
13.40 mm

Water Resistant:
5 ATM (50m)

Case:
Satin-finished and polished titanium

Bezel:
Satin-finished and polished titanium

Bezel Lug:
Blue composite resin

Screws:
Polished titanium

Glass:
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment

Crown:
Polished titanium with engraved Hublot logo

Pushers:
Polished titanium

Case back:
Satin-finished titanium engraved with "SPECIAL" + "EDITION" + "XX/40"

Case back Glass:
Sapphire with interior anti-reflective treatment + vintage imagery

Dial:
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment; Blue lacquered appliqués

Hands:

Blue lacquered hands; Blue and red lacquered second hands

Movement:

Caliber Hublot HUB1155

Type:

Self-winding skeleton Chronograph

Dimensions:

Dia. 30 mm (131/4’’’); Thickness 7.10 mm

Date:

Skeleton day-disc, window at 6.008


No of Components:

207

Jewels:

60

Frequency:

4 Hz (28'800 A/h)

Power reserve:
42 Hours

Strap:
Blue rubber and blue calf with blue stitching 

Buckle:

Stainless steel deployant buckle clasp