Saturday, January 3, 2026

The Son oF Tuoni

From Rönkkö Watches -

 

Courtesy of Rönkkö Watches

All the way from the second largest (by population) city in Finland, mighty Espoo, comes the latest offering from  Antti Rönkkö of Rönkkö Watches.

Courtesy of Rönkkö Watches

The Son of Tuoni is the latest addition to Rönkkö Watches collection.

Limited to 20 pieces.

Availability and Pricing Each variation is strictly limited to 20 pieces.

  • SON OF TUONI – 1 Moon Version: €12,700 (VAT 0%) / €15,938.50 (incl. 25.5% VAT)

  • SON OF TUONI – 2 Moon Version: €14,900 (VAT 0%) / €18,699.50 (incl. 25.5% VAT)

  • Delivery Time: 6–14 months from order.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

  • Modified Swiss made Soprod A10 caliber, diameter 25,6mm (11.5 ligne), 4 Hz/28,800 VpH
  • In-house Moon Complication, with five different variations available
    • Single full moon (bright) version
    • Single new moon (black) version
    • Dual moon version with full moon (bright) and new moon (black)
    • Dual moon version with full moon (bright) and full moon (bright)
    • Dual moon version with new moon (black) and new moon (black)
  • phases of the moon (29,5 days)
  • 42 hours power reserve
  • 25 jewels with Incabloc® shock protection
  • Bi-directional automatic winding with hand finished Ukonvasara shaped rotor

HANDS

  • Diamond cut stiletto design hands

DIAL

  • Hand finished rotating Jatuls’ Garden pattern dial with Tuonen Poika moon indicator/indicators
  • Diamond cut indexes
  • Bright full moon face of Tuonen Poika made of stainless steel
  • Black moon face of Tuonen Poika made of black colored stainless steel

CASE

  • Kokko the Mighty Fire Eagle talon design – diameter 41.9 mm and height 10.15 mm
  • Hand finished hardened IP black coated stainless steel 316L case with satin finished surfaces and polished edges
  • Dial side sapphire crystal with AR coating bottom side with silver metallization Rönkkö®logo
  • Exhibition case back with sapphire crystal with AR coating at the bottom side of the crystal
  • Hardened IP black coated stainless steel 316L crown with Rönkkö®-logo
  • Water-resistant 3 bar (30 meters)

BUCKLE

  • Hardened IP black coated stainless steel 316L

STRAP

  • Handmade genuine matt black alligator strap with Rönkkö ® -logo

Sunday, December 28, 2025

Don't Call It A Comeback - The Ref. 8315 GMT

From Serica -


Courtesy of Serica

Okay, in fairness this is not 100% brand-spanking new item. If it looks familiar, that is because it is, in many ways - save the bracelet. 

I got to have a sneak peek at this during The HYPE, when I ran into the team from Serica and they let me check it out.

Courtesy of Serica
So why is this "The Shit That Killed Elvis"? Steel bracelets are a pain in the backside to adjust, but we love them. They are what makes a sport watch a true sport watch. And this bracelet is what I like to call "Henki-Proof". What does that mean, gentle reader? Well suffice it to say, traditional steel bracelets require tools. Tools require coordination and dexterity, and let's just say that there are innumerable mechanical feats that yours truly is simply incapable of. So it's almost as if the guys at Serica had me in mind when they came upon the design ; )

Courtesy of Serica
In their own words -

A FANTASY OF PERFECT FIT

One size fits all, the dream of every steel bracelet, achieving a level of sizing precision that guarantees comfort and effortless adjustment throughout the day.

The Expedition bracelet merges the fine adjustability of our Bonklip with the structured geometry of folded blades, resulting in a bold new signature design.



So, if like me, you're interested... here are the pertinents -

Case:
Material: 316L Stainless Steel
Finishes: Alternating Polished-satin
Water resistance: 20ATM (200M)
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 12.30 mm
Lug to lug : 46,50 mm
Lug width : 20 mm

Movement:
Caliber: SOPROD C125 COSC
Finishes: Côtes de Genève
Movement: Swiss mechanical self-winding 23 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 ALT/HR (4HZ)
Power reserve: 40h
COSC: Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute

Bezel:
Insert: Single-piece two-tone ceramic
Ladder: AM/PM 24h, day/night indicator
Finishing: Polished “Desert Red” and Ivory

Dial:
Dial: Dark brown enamel with gold accents
Index: Domed luminescents in Super-Luminova C3

Glass:
Glass: Double domed sapphire
Thickness: 2 mm
Coating: Inner anti-reflection Coating

Hands:
Color: White lacquered
Luminescence: Super-Luminova C3, green emission

Bracelet:
Material: 316L stainless steel, woven, folded, and machined
Clasp: Signed spring-loaded clasp
Size: 20 mm
Wrist: One size, adjustable from 14.5 to 22 cm, palm diameter under 25 cm
Finishes: Alternating polished and satin-brushed
End-links: Signature Guilloché Integrated End-Links


Saturday, December 27, 2025

What I've Learned - the Year End Edition

2025 is rapidly drawing to a close and the only thing that seems clear is that short-term memory loss (at best) or willing disregard for reality (more likely) seem to be pre-requisites for long term success in Watch Town.


The people running watch town are now (by and large) not returning their prices to 
prior levels and typifying the assessment of basic human nature another great commentator on the watch business (Napoleon Bonaparte) provided in a Ted Talk back in the day - "Men are moved by two levers only: fear and self interest."

I still never cease to be amazed by the short- term memory of Watch Town's shot callers, they quickly went from squealing like a pig on Liberation day, to sticking their whole faces in the trough once they were assured that the only people really feeling the pinch would be their retail partners, customers, and the staff that some companies opted to lay off.

And, sadly enough, the same disregard for recent history is afflicting some of the very retail partners who got the fuzzy end of the lollipop not so long ago. Righteous indignation had been the order of the day back in April. For many of these guys and girls it must have felt like a betrayal. They had put their faith in a false prophet who, as it turns out, did not necessarily have their best interest at heart.  

So we will all take a short break, slowly get excited, and reconvene in about three and a half months so we can pretend like 2025 never happened.

Friday, December 26, 2025

Shop Your Watch Box!

Sometimes, you need a change. The old routine feels, well, routine ; )

So about this watch - it's a Bell & Ross that is no longer in production. It was a gift received a few years back that I will always treasure.

So the point being - I wasn't wanting a new watch, but rather thinking about giving my trusted companion a new look.



And I do have one peculiar quirk - if available, I always prefer OEM ; )


Now the other factor contributing to my decision making paradigm, particularly as it pertains to straps, is looks and comfort. And Bell & Ross's straps and clasps more than fit the bill. Many folks out there prefer exotic leathers, but my choices these days tend towards calfskin, but I do love a shiny patent-leather look. So I opted for blue leather, and a fairly straight forward deployant buckle.


So let's talk about the one thing that watch brands almost never pay sufficient attention to - the comfort of the strap itself. And once again, Bell & Ross has surpassed my expectations. It's great that a strap looks good. But if it isn't comfortable? You'll never wear it! No worries there!


Now I realize at this time of year encouraging you, the potential watch buying customer not to purchase a new watch is somewhat anathema. But that is, in fact, what I am encouraging you to do. Sometimes all it takes is a different outfit to make you see an old companion in a whole new light ; )

So shop your watch box!

And enjoy your watches!







Thursday, December 18, 2025

The BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest addition to the BR-05 collection. The case and integral bracelet are of stainless steel, with a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The case measures 40 mm in diameter and is 10.5 mm thick. The display case back is sapphire crystal.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The movement is the BR-CAL.321-1, which is  self-winding (automatic) mechanical. It boasts 54-hour power reserve.

The BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel can also be had with a rubber strap -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Limited to 250 pieces, it is priced at $6,300 with stainless steel bracelet, and $5,800 on the rubber strap.


Sunday, December 14, 2025

One Week with the Hanhart Pioneer Mk 1

This is a review probably 14 years in the making. New readers of "the Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit" will be unfamiliar with one key piece of Henki history. Back in mid-to-late Autumn of 2011 I got acquainted with the people running Hanhart. One thing led to another, and by June I was an unofficial PR / evangelist for Hanhart. And that first vintage of the "new" Pioneer was pretty good. But a lot has happened between 2011 and now. Least of which include the change of ownership, management, and a quantum leap in terms of quality.


But time waits for no man - or watch reviewer ; )

So let's jump right in -


The Folks at Hanhart were kind enough to include an extra strap to spice things up -


The packaging is similar to what was first utilized by Hanhart back in the day - and that is reassuring!



A cardboard outer box holds a very nicely finished leather roll that secures the Mk1 and will continue to be useful long after other watch company's packaging is aging and molding in your garage or basement ; )


Now packaging aside, a good watch is one you will wear. And to be wearable, it needs to be comfortable, and of a reasonable size. The Mk 1 scores a 10/10 on both counts. The case measures in at 40 mm in diameter, and the lugs are slightly curved. This helps the wearability quite a bit as the Mk 1 is not what would be considered a "skinny" watch with a width of 15 mm. Despite this, the Mk 1 has been a joy to wear. This comfort is enhanced by the attention to detail with the case finishing - not a sharp edge or rough finish to be found. This is a welcome departure compared to many watches that cost as much (if not more) but have the "cheese grater" impact on the wearer's wrist. 


Now it goes without saying, that unlike Playboy, you come to this blog for the writing - not the "pictures", but this will well illustrate the case back finishing. Clearly laid out, clearly identifiable, yet smooth and comfortable to wear.

Also please note the space where the strap attaches to the lugs - a quick release spring bar is utilized! It sounds like a small thing, but this is HUGE! A real pleasure to be able to quickly change straps without a tool - and without potentially scratching your watch! 

Speaking of straps -


I wore both the brown and the black (above) and the quality of the leather, and the finishing was top-shelf. A very definitive improvement from Hanhart's straps in 2012.


Okay, let's address the elephant in the cockpit - a white dialed flieger!

So... when I was offered the opportunity to review a Hanhart, I not only chose this watch (the Pioneer Mk1), but I also chose this dial color. I wanted to review the Mk1 to see if things at Hanhart had changed - and YES - all for the better! But in truth? I wanted to go a little bit deeper. 

I love Steve McQueen. Probably not for the same cinematic reasons as most watch "bros".
I became acquainted with Mr. McQueen watching The Sand Pebbles as a young boy in Northern Ohio. We had a color tv downstairs, and a small black and white tv that I would often "borrow" and move into my room to watch the late night movie. The Sand Pebbles would rotate through Channel 43 (our local UHF channel) at least once if not twice a year. The film also featured Richard Attenborough. I identified with McQueen as the outsider, trying to do the right thing, often misunderstood, but still steadfast in his stance. In essence - to do the right thing because it is the right thing, regardless of the consequences. With that said, although he was a Hanhart owner it was a traditional black dial. I wanted to consider a somewhat "contrary" Hanhart - one with a white dial. 


Watches, like any other item we wear, are subject to classification. When I read or hear "flieger", I picture a somewhat goofy group of watch journalists (almost exclusively men) who have never flown (beyond being a passenger on Swiss Air) but are ready to rhapsodize long and hard about what makes a pilot's watch. If watch companies were solely dependent upon pilots who wanted an "old-timey" watch to wear to harken back to yesteryear, they might have a pretty short runway. With that said, Hanhart is making watches that not only live up to the rigors that pilots might have experienced in the "Big Wars", but actually translate to practical use for non-pilots like yours truly.

I opted for the white dial because I wanted to challenge convention - that a pilot's watch dial had to be black. Apparently it doesn't need to be black, it just needs to be legible. And the Pioneer Mk 1 (white) is absolutely that!


So let's talk about timing -


The Pioneer Mk1 is for realsies! Although, hopefully, nobody reading this will be hopping into a Sopwith Camel to do battle with the Red Baron, the Mk1 would be more than up to the task.

In terms of time keeping the watch was true. I observed a variance of + 5 seconds and -3 seconds over the week.

In terms of power reserve, it exceeded expectations (as well as published predictions) and went 43.34 over the advertised 42 hours. Granted these weren't laboratory tests, but based on GPS time indications.

And now, the phrase that I hate (because it is just dumb) "the value proposition". Let's be real with each other - the Pioneer Mk 1 is not (at least by my standards) an "impulse" buy. In the lower 48, it is priced at $3.490. But at that price it is more than fair in terms of what it delivers. Take away the monopusher chronograph feature and focus on the overall quality of the watch itself. Yes, it is that good!

It is beyond reproach. The time keeping, case finishing, and overall wearing comfort make the Mk1 a watch that stands out beyond it's classification as a pilot's watch or "fliger". 

I have thoroughly enjoyed wearing it, and if you love pilot's watches, but are seeking something a wee-bit different? This could be in your wheel house. I personally highly recommend it!

Here are the pertinents -

CASE: 

DIMENSIONS

  • Diameter 40 mm
  • Height 15 mm

MATERIAL

  • Stainless steel

BEZEL

  • Fluted bezel with red marking
  • Large crown and red pusher

GLASS

  • Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides

CASE BACK

  • Screwed case back

WATER RESISTANCE

  • Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310



  • Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides

CASE BACK

  • Screwed case back

WATER RESISTANCE

  • Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310


MOVEMENT -

CALIBER

  • Automatic chronograph movement HAN3601
  • Base: ETA7753
  • Single lever handle conversion
  • 28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 27 jewels

POWER RESERVE

  • 42 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS

  • Small second
  • 30-minute counter