Sunday, June 7, 2026

Summer Repeat: She Loves America

I first ran this one in "the Blog fornerly known as Tempus Fugit" several years ago.  Sadly, it's as true today as it ever was. So for you, gentle reader, a cautionary tale about the perils of not developing local talent -

 

She Loves America… but America doesn't Love Her.

This was, albeit the short form, the sentiment that I heard from a blogger colleague of mine referring to the recently appointed replacement coming to "save" the North American subsidiary of "brand x".

I've written on this topic before, but with the inevitable annual "house cleaning" session that we are about to witness, it seemed like a pertinent topic again.  Please indulge me while I revisit the ongoing challenge faced by the watch industry in the US and Canada.  So basically, brand x is in Switzerland.  They have tried several different solutions, that like death can be broken down into specific stages:

1.  Go with a distributor for about 10 years.
Everything seemed to be going okay.  Sales were very, very strong.  But then they started to hear rumblings.  Their watches were showing up in many places that were not exactly "official retail partners" which is a polite way of saying "grey market".  How did that happen?  Simple, the distributor wrote very large orders to stores and store owners who in fact were doing massive amounts of trans-shipping.  In other words, although some of the watches were in the "front area", the majority of the watches were being sold out the back door before they even made it into the store's safe.  So a change had to be made.

2.  Hosanna!  We have the solution!  A young Swiss sales manager saddles-up and heads across the water to "take the situation in hand".  And like any great television sitcom, hilarity ensues!  Language and cultural miscommunication leads to acrimonious feelings between the "natives" and the "over lord".

Sounds pretty harsh?  Trust me, I've heard worse from both sides.  This situation is destined to fail for a number of reasons, but essentially what resonates is that:

To the parent company - The North American team sucks.  They are little children that clearly can't handle the job, and we have to "keep an eye" on them.

To the "home team" - Oh great, another "idiot son" sent to "train for the future" by running the North American subsidiary.  This genius can't even figure out where the toilet is!

Needless to say, things don't work out.  A year to three is about how long this usually runs.

3.  Okay,  let's hire someone to run our subsidiary.  And while everyone may love this person, they stand about the same chances as any new restaurant opening.  Because at this point, the feeling is that things better go right.  This person will usually be given about half the time to fix or establish the brand.    Very few people can do it, and those who can't?  Well don't worry, you'll see them working for a different brand inside of 6 months.

So what am I trying to say here?  PATIENCE needs to be the policy.  Your brand didn't go bad overnight, it was a slow, but steady process.  You will not be able to "fix" your brand overnight either.  Be realistic, and unless your Brand Manager gets caught with a dead body and a bath tub full of cocaine, give them a bit more time - good things, some times take time.

Sunday, May 31, 2026

The Promenade - GOUTTE DE ROSÉE

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

This is the latest from Czapek. The Promenade - GOUTTE DE ROSÉE.

Courtesy of Czapek

The case is of yellow gold and measures 38 mm in diameter.

The movement is Czapek's automatic Calibre SXH5.

Limited to 25 pieces, and priced at 32,000.00 CHF (Excl. VAT)

Wednesday, May 27, 2026

YES! Mathey - Tissot!

There is a lot of snobbery in Watch Town and Watch Town adjacent. It often reminds me of the scene in Bottle Shock where the somewhat uptight English wine merchant brilliantly played by Alan Rickman defends his contempt for California wines (unknowingly) to California vinyard / winery owner played by Bill Pullman, and Pullman calls bullshit:

            "You're a snob, it limits you

I had the very great pleasure of meeting the folks at Mathey-Tissot at Time to Watches in Geneva last month. I picked up a modest (but damn good looking) Mathey-Tissot quartz piece. And I noticed some real beauties lurking nearby. And upon further reflection, I found this beauty.
Courtesy of Mathey-Tissot

This is the 1968. And while my quest for a birth year watch has proved fruitless for some time, this wonderful time machine quite well scratches the itch for me!

It is special.

The case measures 41 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel. The movement is Landeron's self-winding 73B. 

The asking price? So totally fair at $2,579.00 US.

I would highly, HIGHLY recommend that if you're in the market for something special, have a good look at the Mathey-Tissot 1968. 

There is a LOT of noise, posturing, and posing in Watch Town, but the 1968 absolutely strikes a chord with yours truly, it is something that stands on its own. 

I hope to have more Mathey-Tissot goodness to share in the coming weeks.

Monday, May 25, 2026

The People You Meet on Vacation...Nepro


Before I go too deep into Nepro's triumphant return, I'm gonna' hop into the way-back machine to 1978.


Way back when dinosaurs were roaming the earth, my grandfather decided that the one thing that every 10 year old needed was an LED watch.  So a very large, very chunky LED watch arrived and was given to me.

Courtesy of SMU Digital Libraries

I LOVED that watch, hitting the buttons incessantly.  It worked for all of a week before malfunctioning.  We sent it back to the folks at Texas Instruments and were told to wait a month.  Only to receive a BRAND NEW identical model less than a week later, swiftly followed by the original "repaired" model a week after that.  Spoiler alert - both watches died within a week of arrival.  

So when I came across the Nepro table at Time to Watches in Geneva, I at once felt pangs of nostalgia, hope, desire, and frankly? A fear of being "hurt" again...


I saw the Nepro on Saturday, befor the last day of the fair. And I was pretty much obsessed for the balance of my stay. Rational, reasonable thoughts were replaced by the absolute conviction that the Nepro was absolutely fundamental to my future happiness. Fortunately, one non-solar piece was found. Digital currency was exchanged, and it came home with me. 

Now in truth? I am not proposing that what will follow later this week will be a review. My attachment to my new Nepro LED watch is now a little too deep for me to be really objective. But with that said, it is my sincere hope that maybe - just maybe, you can go home again - and you're watch will actually make it to Christmas still working  - I have a good feeling about this one ; )


Stay tuned!

Tuesday, May 19, 2026

Numptys...

Per the Urban Dictionary -
Numpty:
Dialect, chiefly scots. A bumbling fool or one who is intellectually challanged.
(plural : numpties)
"they numpties couldnae organise a pissup in a brewery."
In reference to MSPs( members of scottish parliment). numpty by Gerry K. April 26, 2005


Courtesy of Audemars Piguet


Unlike most of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates of Watch Town, I have held off on commenting on Hayek "the Younger's" latest thirst trap. By and large, I like Swatch, own a bunch, and even plumped for a Blancpain x Swatch as well as a Mission to Mars. They're fun.

And without going into the pros and cons of whether or not $420 American is wisely spent on this latest outing, I want to reflect on the shit-show that was Swatch's lack of common sense regarding the launch of the Royal Pop. Or to paraphrase James Corder's bon mots - Is human life only worth $420?

You can read his insightful commentary here, it is well worth your time -

While seeing crowds buzzing is good for business, I would like to think we have moved on from the Bernie Ecclestine / Hublot "if it bleeds, it leads" approach to marketing -
Courtesy of Hublot

And while many of us are sharing our feelings, curious to relate? It appears that neither Mr. Hayek, or Ms. Resta have been particularly forthcoming with coments following a highly anticipated, partially aborted launch capped off with near riots. Think I'm being overly dramatic? Simply put, riot police aren't typically dispatched to your neighborhood mall over a parking dispute, or a getting the wrong order at Orange Julius... 

While some folks will hopefully get and truly appreciate their new pocket watch, my sincere hope is that in Biel/Bienne and Le Brassus there might be just a wee bit of reflection on how this was handled, and maybe (doubtful, I know) maybe one of these two leaders can put their egos aside and accept the responsibility for the situation and offer some sort of acknowledgement.

I know, this is about as likely to happen as me being invited on an AP press junket ; )

Or to paraphrase the closing scene in one of my favorite films -

"Forget it, Henki. It's Watch Town."


Saturday, May 16, 2026

Perhaps Just Under the Radar - The Epos 3408

Okay, spoiler alert - Epos has some really cool new watches coming soon. That's all I will say for now. But with that said, they have some true gems that might not be on your radar, but should! So let "the weekend of Epos" begin!

Courtesy of Epos

This is the Epos 3408. It is singularly perfect.
The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. Simple, elegant, and wonderful.

Courtesy of Epos

The movement is the Peseux 7001.  Again, simple. But remember - simple is not dumb. Simple is elegant, only what is needed, albeit with a beautiful finish.

And finally? In these uncertain times, we are all more that a wee bit price sensitive. Well, Epos has you covered - priced at US$ 1'710 here in the lower 48.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Base Movement

Peseux 7001

Type

Hand-Wound

Execution

Decorated

Date Functions

None

Case
Material

Stainless Steel

Color

Steel

Diameter

39 mm

Thickness

5.9 mm

Lugs

20 mm

Front Crystal

Scratch-Resistant Sapphire

Back

See-Through Mineral

Water Resistance

3 ATM

Dial
Color

Muted Olive Green

Execution

Sunblasted

Hour Markers

Index Applied

Strap
Material

Leather

Color

Black

Buckle

Pin Buckle (Folding Buckle on request)

Friday, May 15, 2026

The BR-X3 Patrouille de France

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest from Bell & Ross. For the past several years they have partnered with the Patrouille de France aerobatic team for a special watch. This year's version is limited to 250 pieces.

The asking is $8,100.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross -

Movement : Manufacture. Automatic Mechanical Movement. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Functions : Hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

Case : 41 mm wide. 13.30 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Decorative side pillar and bezel in blue anodised aluminium with micro-blasted finish. Sapphire case-back featuring a custom metallised Patrouille de France logo.

Dial : Three-plate construction – matt black base, blue and white skeletonised applique, matt black insert – with polished and rhodium-plated “Baignoire-style” applique indices, filled with white Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow). Patrouille de France logo at 6 o'clock. Power reserve window featuring the colours of the French flag (blue, white and red). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minutes hands filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9 Grade X1 (blue glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Openworked black rubber and blue ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Thursday, May 14, 2026

The calendario quattro anni (cqa)

From ochs und junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

In honor of their 20th anniversary, ochs und junior has released an annual calendar good for four years.

This is a pre-order item, deliveries are anticipated to begin in October. Initial price is: CHF 6,900 – Export price 
CHF 7,460 – incl. 8.1% Swiss VAT

Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Grade 5 titanium, 40 mm  

Dial: 
circular graining in oj blue patina with markers decorated with white gold | Hour and minute hands, adorned in white gold | Second hand in orange | Date and month display in orange  

Movement:
ETA 2824-2 

Strap: 
Enzian in Ecopell calfskin, with or without orange stitching, available in sizes small, medium, large, or extra-large 

Weight: 
65 g (with buckle and strap) 
Warranty: two years 
Non-customizable.

Sunday, May 3, 2026

The BR-03 Green Steel

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest in the BR-03 family. A three-hand automatic with date - in green.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. The movement is self-winding with a power reserve of 54 hours.

Here are all the pertinents -


Movement :
 Calibre BR-CAL.302-1. Automatic Mechanical Movement. 54-hour power reserve.

Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case : 41 mm wide. 9.65 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Dial : Green sunray with black gradient, coated with glossy lacquer. “Baignoire-style” applique indices and numerals filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow). Skeletonised rhodium-plated hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green glow).

Crystal : Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance : 100 metres.

Strap : Black-coloured box calfskin leather and black ultra-resilient synthetic fabric.

Buckle : Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.


Priced at $4,100.

The Rallye Méca Quartz Chronographe GPFH 2026

From Lip -
Courtesy of Lip

This is the latest from the folks in Besançon. A new take on their Rallye chronograph collection.

In their own words -


LIP Rallye Chronograph Grand Prix de France Historique – Limited Edition 2026

The house of LIP has created a third exclusive model, in a limited and numbered edition, co-branded with the Grand Prix de France Historique to celebrate its third year as the Official Timekeeper. This season’s inspiration comes from the cyan blue run-off stripes that are iconic on the Circuit Paul Ricard.

The case is of polished stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter.
The movement is a meca quartz.

Limited to 1,906 pieces, and priced at €349.00
Tax included.



Saturday, May 2, 2026

The People You Meet on Vacation...Seven Days with the Manifesta

From Rotoris -



What I miss about BaselWorld, but am hoping to see more of in Geneva moving forward is the random chance meetings with emerging brands.

And one such meeting involved the founders of a watch brand that I had never heard of, but suspect will be the talk of watch fans moving forward. More about Founder and CEO Aakash Anand, and Co-Founder and Chief Creative Officer Prerna Gupta in a later post. Today is all about the Rotoris Manifesta.

Courtessy of Rotoris

The Manifesta is an interesting paradox. It is an extremely well-crafted, beautifully executed self-winding watch that is priced well within reach of almost any watch fan from the thrifty yet aspiring to the deep-pocketed. And in truth? This is a watch that will appeal to everyone across the board.


Rotoris is driven by the ethos of creating a luxury watch in India. But (and this might just be my perception) there also seems to be a desire to make a product that is not beyond the reach of everyone. Let's call it inclusive luxury.  While many of the watch components are from outside of India, the Manifesta is assembled in India. 

The beating heart (in this case, quite literally) of the Manifesta is the RSGA01. This is a calibre developed in partnership with Seagull, built on the ST2502K architecture, but specifically modified for Rotoris.



Seagull has come a very, very long way in terms of quality and stability. And the performance of the Manifesta in terms of time keeping have been top-notch. It has had no significant deviations (loss or gain) in time keeping. But more than that, the setting and winding has been surprising - in a good way. The crown is tactile, yet very smooth and forgiving to the touch, and the winding is gentle, not brittle or scratchy sounding. 

But let's get down to brass tacks, wearing comfort. You could have the most accurate watch in the world, but if it is not comfortable to wear, it will sit in your dresser drawer. 

A lot of wearing comfort is down to design and execution of the case itself.


The Manifesta's case has a wonderful curvature, ensuring it sits comfortably on the wrist. The dimensions are what I often refer to as "Goldilocks" - just right ; )


It measures 40 mm in diameter, with gently curved lugs. It is of stainless steel with a gold pvd finish. The curve and shape are gentle. The crystal is sapphire, making the black onyx dial truly pop.

The strap is teju lizard and crafted in India.


It is paired with a matching deployant clasp -


So if you were hoping to get your hands on one, this is a good news / not-so-good news review. The Manifesta has come and gone (limited edition), but the good news is that Rotoris is playing the long game. Small releases, teased out one at a time, with wait lists that far exceed the production numbers. So if you missed this one, stay tuned - Rotoris has plenty more magic up their sleeves!