Friday, November 13, 2026

The Marauder

From Synchron -

Courtesy of Synchron

This is a limited edition of 300 pieces. It is currently available for pre-order here:


Here are the pertinents -

$1,670.00

  • EDITION: Limited to 300 pieces. 10 Millar Edition dials (KMK logo) are reserved for the Millar family
  • DESIGN: Dr. Pete Millar, dive watch historian and long-time Synchron collaborator
  • CASE: 316L surgical stainless steel cushion case with a centered crown. Fully brushed, flat vintage-style end pieces
  • SIZE: 42.5mm diameter, 44.6mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug width
  • THICKNESS: 11.85mm, with a thin flat caseback and rounded edge
  • WATER RESISTANCE: 30 bar (300 meters / 990 feet)
  • BEZEL: 38.5mm unidirectional, 120 clicks. 60-minute outer track; inner no-decompression track in feet and meters, to 120 feet, with luminous dot. Patent filed
  • DIAL: Matte black, white hands, Diving With Legends logo, Swiss Made
  • LUMINESCENCE: Solid Super-LumiNova C3-X1 3D-BRYTE markers
  • CALIBER: Sellita SW200, Swiss Made, Élaboré grade. Automatic, adjusted in 4 positions, 25 jewels
  • POWER RESERVE: 38 hours
  • FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date, elapsed-time bezel
  • CROWN: Centered, with vintage-style splines
  • HELIUM ESCAPE VALVE: Large, centered at 9 o’clock
  • CASEBACK: Engraved “Millar Edition”
  • BRACELET: Included: fully brushed stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet, 20mm tapering to 18mm
  • STRAP: Also included: genuine ISOfrane® rubber strap
  • PACKAGING: Aluminum canister
  • DELIVERY: The second batch of 250 pieces will start shipping in February 2027


Thursday, November 12, 2026

The SB04-E Shanga

From Sartory Billard -



Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

At first glance, this appears to be another pair of Sartory Billard's watches. In fairness, that is already an understatement as Armand Billard has continued to grow and expand his watch making grammar. Because to call the watches Sartory Billard makes "artisanal" may be fair, but it is also incredibly short-sighted. 


So the real question I have for you, gentle reader, when does a watch become more than just a watch? When does it help create more than a temporary solution, but rather empowers the sustainment of a burgeoning community?
And just how in God's name do you go from a large tube of blue glass (above), to the template for a watch dial (below)?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The whole story is impressive, and perhaps a bit too long for one post, so consider today the highlights, and stay tuned for the entire story in the coming days.

It all started in Dubai. Armand was speaking with Karim Wissanji, Founder & CEO of Elewana Collection. Karim told him about Shanga. The Shanga foundation is based in Tanzania and is an exemplar of how creativity, persistence, and community can create opportunities which can lead to self-sufficiency.  Karim thought that Armand's Sartory Billard were the perfect partner to help transmit Shanga's artisans stories to the growing global community of watch collectors and enthusiasts.
In speaking with Armand, he told me it took him all of three minutes to decide to move forward with the project, with he and his colleague Tiffany on the ground at Shanga's glass making workshops in very short order to get the project planned.

A little bit about Shanga before we move on to the watch, but I'd like to share it in their own words:

Shanga was founded in 2007 in Arusha, Tanzania when a local resident made a handful of fabric necklaces for a Christmas Fair.. Combining local fabric with beads and her sons' marbles, she created a unique necklace that sold out within hours. The days after the fair were busy with - orders coming in for the necklaces from safari companies and gift shops. Shanga, the Swahili word for bead, was born.

The demand for the necklaces opened up the opportunity for a local deaf woman to gain employment, initially working from a backyard. Demand for the necklace continued and soon the first Shanga workshop was established. The Shanga range of products was expanded, utilising recycled and sustainable materials where possible, and the project was opened for people to come and meet the staff and purchase products on-site.

From its humble beginnings, Shanga has grown into a self-sustaining social enterprise training and employing 34 people with disabilities to produce creative products including weaving, glass blowing, beading, paper making and metal work, using recycled materials wherever possible.

Our staff happily have a beautiful and safe working space where they can continue to demonstrate their abilities to visitors from around the world.


Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Okay, let's get down to the watch itself. This is based on the SB04. Meaning that the case is of stainless steel and measures 39.5 mm in diameter, is 10.2 mm thick, and spans a full 44 mm from lug to lug.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Under the hood is La Joux-Perret's G101A automatic movement, boasting 68 hours of power reserve.

The strap is blue leather. 

And you have (currently) an option of a deep blue lacquered crown with the Sartory-Billard logo, or a tanzanite-set crown (available in very limited quantities).

But let's get to the star of the show, the dial!

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The team at Shanga created the basis of the dial from recycled glass. This glass was then crafted into smaller pieces that could be crafted into watch dials. These pieces were sent to Germany and Groh & Ripp, specialists in stone and hard-material watch dials.


Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The dials then made the final leg of their journey to the Sartory Billard workshops where the final assembly was performed by Armand.


Courtesy of Sartory Billard

In addition to the wonderful Shanga glass dial base, there is one, actually make that 12 more "Easter Eggs". The numbers are each unique, each one contributed by a different member of this unique collective.


Courtesy of Sartory Billard


Per Sartory Billard:

Rather than creating a new typeface, the people who shaped the project contributed their own handwriting. Nabila Wissanji, CEO of the Land & Life Foundation, and Karim Wissanji shared the 12. Armand wrote the 11, Sartory Billard designer and project manager Tiffany Bachelet the 10, Sandra Ripp of Groh & Ripp the 6, and Shanga Master Glass Blower Charles Kyalo Mulonzi the 1. The remaining numerals were drawn by the rest of Shanga’s glass team. Together, their handwriting forms a collective signature around the dial.


The SB04-E Shanga is limited to 100 pieces total. The price is €4,800 excl. VAT. And beyond just being a beautiful watch with true craftsmanship, this is a watch that will do even more than tell time. 

Per Sartory Billard:
For every watch sold, €1,000 will be donated to the workshop, helping it grow in size, resources and training capacity. A bigger workshop, with more equipment and greater capacity, means being able to bring more people into the team, create new jobs and train more artisans. It gives Shanga the means not only to continue what it is doing today, but to do it on a greater scale and reach people it does not yet have the capacity to welcome.

So if this is in your wheelhouse, and it definitely is in mine, here are the petinents:

Technical Specifications

Name: SB04-E Shanga

Reference: SB04-ESHG2026

Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed finishes

Thickness: 10.2 mm

Lug-to-lug: 44 mm

Dial: Deep blue recycled glass dial made at Shanga, with a naturally swirling pattern and subtle variations in tone and transparency

Crown: Deep blue lacquered crown with Sartory-Billard logo. Tanzanite-set crown available in very limited quantities.

Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101A automatic movement, 68-hour power reserve

Water resistance: 100 metres

Strap: Sartory-Billard blue leather strap. Logo pin buckle.

Price:
€4,800 excl. VAT

Limited edition:
100 individually numbered pieces in total.
Two crown options are available: deep blue lacquer or tanzanite, the latter offered in very limited quantities on a first-come, first-served basis.

Ships within 2 weeks of ordering.

Friday, November 6, 2026

Hanhart × Uhrenratgeber

 From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is a collaboration between Hanhart and Marcus Finger of Uhrenratgeber and is limited to just 82 pieces.

Per Hanhart:

A dial not of this world.

UR Frosted Meteorite AQUASPHERE
Some materials have travelled further than others. The new model, based on the AQUASPHERE, features a dial made from genuine meteorite. This exceptional material makes every watch unique, and combined with subtle colour accents, it creates a distinctive design concept of its own.

Here are the pertinents:

CASE
DIMENSIONS
Diameter 42 mm
Height 12.95 mm
Lug-to-Lug 49 mm

MATERIAL
Stainless steel, satin/polished

BEZEL
Gray bezel with ceramic inlay
Triangle, hour markers, and numerals coated with Super-Luminova®
Rotates counterclockwise

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal

CASE BACK
Screw-down case back with an embossed underwater scene
Engraved limited edition number XX/82

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 30 bar/30 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310


MOVEMENT
CALIBER
Mechanical movement: Sellita SW 200-1 or Soprod
28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
25 jewels

POWER RESERVE
38 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Three-hand, hour, minute and second display

DIAL
Dial made of meteorite rock

NUMBERS
Coated with Super-Luminova® BGW9

HANDS
Coated with Super-Luminova® BGW9
Skeletonized hour and minute hands

STRAP
Steel bracelet
Width at the lugs: 20 mm

COLORS
Stainless Steel

BUCKLE
Folding clasp

Thursday, November 5, 2026

The Mono Mech

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

This is the latest from Raphael Ickler's brand. 
The Mono Mech is a one-handed watch with each hour broken up into five minute segments with the quarter hour inserted at ever third mark.

Courtesy of Defakto

The case is from Ickler, keeping everything in the family ; ) 

It is of stainless steel with a display back. It measures 39 mm in diameter, and is 45 mm lug to lug.

The movement is up to the customer, with a choice of either Sellita's automatic SW 200 or their handwound SW 210.

Prices as indicated by Defakto -

1.428,00 EUR (incl. VAT) // EU Citizens
1.200,00 EUR (excl. VAT) // Non-EU Citizens

Wednesday, November 4, 2026

A Watch Just Right for Salem, MA

The Ghost Edition from Julien Louis -

Courtesy of Julien Louis

Proof positive that it is nearly impossible to know absolutely everything and every brand, this is the 2026 Concept watch from Julien Louis. Julien is a French watchmaker who following his training put in time with Blancpain, and has since launched his brand.

Each month he releases a concept piece, and for November Halloween is the theme.

 

Courtesy of Julien Louis

The dial features five ghosts, and as Wendy and I reside in the Witch City, this one really appeals to me. The dials are completed and numbered one by one. 

The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. The display back shows the movement - in this instance it is La Joux-Perret's G100.

Courtesy of Julien Louis

It is priced at $2,369.00 here in the lower 48 and went on sale officially this past Sunday.

Here are the pertinents -

Case:

316L stainless steel case:

- 42 mm diameter
- 47 mm lug to lug
- 10 mm thickness

Movement:
La Joux-Perret G100 movement:
- 68-hour power reserve
- 24 rubies
- 28,800 alternations (4Hz)
- 5-position adjustment, COSC standard
- Unidirectional automatic winding

Sunday, November 1, 2026

Overtime with the Hager Commando GMT Black

From Hager Watches -

Courtesy of Hager

This is not a review. Or to put it differently, this is not a review so much as it is a summation. The past 11 years of the Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit, and now Henki Time are inextricably linked to Hager Watches, and the owner, Pierre (Pete) Brown. I have been fortunate enough to sample every piece Hager has made with the exception of their pocket watches. And in truth? I have worn and tested A LOT of watches over the past 16 years. The Commando GMT along with Commando Milsub marked the 10th anniversary for Hager.  

Most importantly, Pete is a friend, and I am a Hager fan, so gentle reader, you cannot expect me to be impartial, because I know the time, effort, and sacrifice that Pete and his family have put into making Hager a going concern.



So let's get into it ; )

The Commando GMT is powered by a Swiss self-winding movement with GMT functionality.  There is no date. For me this makes for a cleaner look, but I know for some folks out there the date function is important.


The GMT hand is blue with a red tipped arrow filled with white lume. The bezel is 24 click, bi-directional. Whereas many other brands at this price point will go with a friction bezel, this set-up is a bit more failproof. The insert is ceramic, and is lumed, which is a nice touch.

The timekeeping was true, no real deviations on either end of the spectrum (fast or slow). The power reserve was solid, and as advertised (40 hours of power reserve). 

The case is of stainless steel, and it measures 40 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 13 mm. It has an antireflective domed sapphire crystal. The case back is solid with "tertia optio" engraved along with the limited edition number. This refers to the "third" option with the first being diplomacy, the second conventional military engagement, and the third being some "James Bond shit". The watch is rated to 990 feet of water resistance. While I did not take a plunge into the briny deep, the Commando GMT was more than up to the task for my non-commando life style. The screw-down crown bears the Hager logo, and is tactile and smooth which makes time setting and re-setting an easy process.



The bracelet is stainless steel.



But Hager takes it a bit further by equipping it with a ratcheting clasp -



Now as I said, I am a wee bit biased. With that said, the Commando GMT did not disappoint. 
The strong points - Swiss movement, bi-directional GMT bezel, solid lume, "standard" case size of 40 mm, and a very well executed ceramic bezel. The ratcheting clasp is a nice touch. And me personally? I prefer the no-date layout.

The one thing I might suggest is pretty basic - a 24 hour interior scale around the dial. You do get this functionality through the bezel insert, but when this is also added to the interior dial you suddenly have an extra timezone without needing to adjust settings or do math. 

As I said at the top, this review and this watch really mark a capstone for Hager. And I mean that in a positive way. Hager have more than stood the test of time where many of their contemporaries have fallen by the wayside. Hager now truly has something for everyone. Sport watches of different flavors, and a truly beguiling collection of dress watches with the Diplomat edition. I was pleased to have Hager join The HYPE for a one-day appearance a few weeks back. And curious to relate, several visitors singled Hager out as one of their favorite discoveries. And this makes sense because over the past few years Hager has kept a slightly lower profile. In many ways, we could say that this second chapter for Hager Watches is now complete. But I also think that Pete has at least one more idea up his sleeve, and I will be curious to see it.  
 
But back to the Commando GMT Black.
It is priced at a very friendly $1,165 US. It is well designed, the time keeping is solid, and the overall finish of the watch is of a higher level than most watches found in this price category. Most importantly, you get a watch from a brand that cares about making a solid product and a connection with their customers.

Here are the pertinents:

Technical Details Commando Milsub

Case  

Case Height: 40mm

Case Thickness: 13mm

Case Length: 47mm

AISI 316L polished steel

SuperLuminova Ceramic Bezel Insert

Scratch resistant domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating (AR)

Dial

3-6-9 Sandwhich Dial. A sandwich dial includes two separate disks where the bottom layer holds the luminescent material in recessed indexes while the top layer has index cut-outs to allow the luminescence to shine through.

Movement

Swiss Made Automatic GMT with 40 hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT

Bracelet

Stainless steel with two-button clasp and two-button slidelock extension system. Band Width: 20mm

Water Resistance

30 ATM = 990ft






Thursday, October 29, 2026

The Shellman Grand Complication - It's Toki-Doki!


It's funny looking back on the past 32 years. My wife Wendy and I met while teaching English in Japan. We got married and returned to the suburbs of Tokyo way back in 1994 - coincidentally the first time the US hosted the World Cup. I was not really so into watches at that time. I had two Tag Heuers - both quartz. One was the F1 7-Eleven model which I bought for myself just before my final 3 terms at U of O. The second was a Tag Heuer Professional (I believe) that I bought myself as a graduation present about 9 months later. that was the watch I was wearing when we met, when we got married, and later returned to Japan. Where it promptly died. At first the hope was a new battery would do the trick (spoiler alert - it didn't). I ended up trading it at a Tachikawa pawn shop for a Rado Green horse and borrowed 4000 yen from Wendy to pay the difference. 

My rationale was then - quartz is bad, mechanical will work, just move your wrist...

And ironically, with age I have discovered that I am not as keen to keep setting and either winding (hand wound) or jump starting (automatic) watches. And I'm not even talking about complications ; )

I has often been theorized that had the technology been available, Abraham Louis Breguet would have worked with quartz. And if you think about it, it makes sense. It is the most accurate time keeping, you don't have to wind and set it, etc. Just grab it and go.

One other thing - and this is about ease of use. I have always loved the idea of a grand complication or a minute repeater (or both), but several hurdles blocked my path:
  • Cost
  • Complexity of setting and re-setting 
  • Convenience (see above)
  • The high likelihood of breaking the watch while trying to set, re-set, or simply use
  • Maintenance
When I first encountered the Shellman, it was a bit of a misfit. Because it was quartz, and because it was not from a "known" watch maker, it got short shift. Some said it was a "house" brand as Shellman is, in fact, a jeweler/ watch seller. And I filed it away and didn't think about it for some time. And then I came across postings on Instagram from Ms.GMT who owned at least one Shellman and raved about it. 

I dove down the rabbit hole, reaching out to Shellman directly only to be told (very politely) that it was only available in Japan. And while I love Japan and would also love a reason to visit, it was not likely that I would lay hands to one. But then by happy coincidence a brand participating in The HYPE was in Japan for a slightly extended period. I reached out and (rather shamelessly) pleaded with them to try and locate one. We agreed to the "trade conditions" and a few weeks later I was introduced to my erstwhile obsession when I took possession in New York.

I will be sharing my impressions over the coming weeks and months as I get to know her, so stay tuned.

Wednesday, October 28, 2026

The BR-05 Chrono Snow Rocket

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This piece is a collab with French skier Simon Billy.

It is limited to 250 pieces and priced at $7,100 with rubber strap and $7,600 with a stainless steel bracelet.

The case measures 42 mm and is of stainless steel. The movement is Bell & Ross's BR-CAL.326.

Tuesday, October 27, 2026

What if We Went the Other Way?

So by now, just about every pundit in Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates have weighed in on Zenith's current situation and the proposed path forward. It is safe to say that as far as this situation goes, I'm from Missouri - i.e. you'll need to show me. But if I'm laying my opinions bare, this seems to be a somewhat half-assed approach at what we refer to as a "rebuilding year" (or years in this case) here in the lower 48.

Professional sports in the US (and certainly some other countries) are unique in that they incentivize being the absolute best (the champion), and the absolute worst (last place). If you are the champion, the rewards are pretty obvious. If you are the "biggest loser", the incentive is that you get one of if not the first pick when new players are drafted (selected) each year out of college, high school or from abroad. Curious to relate? We have no such thing as relegation or promotion. This is how I explain the continued existence of the New York Jets in the NFL ; )

Perhaps the shrewdest move that Movado ever made was to sell Zenith to a group of people with a lot of money and not a lot of imagination. Dufour couldn't fix it, Magada couldn't fix it, Captain Fantastic (J.C. Biver) couldn't fix it. More recently Arnault The Younger, Arnault The Even Younger - and who knows, if LVMH keeps Zenith - Arnault The As Yet To Become CEO (or shave) haven't been able to do much with Zenith. And the previous and current list of "friends of the brand" don't do much to inspire confidence in the decision making paradigm in Le Locle.

So what to do?

Option number 1 - sell Zenith. And no, I don't mean it sarcastically and it's not as crazy an idea as you might think. Zenith as a brand does not really fit the LVMH mold. If Zenith stops chasing dumb-dumb partnerships, culls the collection, focuses on making watches that collectors want to buy.


Option number 2 - reposition Zenith as a slightly more affordable option. Yes, this would mean increasing production and actually trying to sell more, rather than fewer watches. But consider something important - anyone even a little bit into watcehs wants to have an El Primero equipped chronograph. Seeing as they "control the means of production", it is not beyond the realm of possibilities that they could actually make something a little bit more affordable that would appeal to a lot of aspiring collectors.

And it can be done. Although they are far from my favorite people in Watch Town, NOMOS seems to be doing something along these lines.

Either scenario would require that one elusive quality that Zenith has lacked these past 26 years - patience.


Monday, October 26, 2026

Hublot...Part 1 Carlo Crocco

So there are two rather newsworthy things out of Hublot in the past two weeks. Focusing on the long overdue, there is the Classic Fusion Tributo. Now I have had a topsy turvy relationship with the Biv, but someone I always admired is Carlo Crocco -

Courtesy of Hublot

Before the Big Bang, before some cool celebrity partnerships (and some pretty dubious ones), Carlo Crocco created the original Hublot. The case inspired by a ship's porthole, a gold luxury watch with a rubber strap. Oh, and that was one very nice smelling strap, by the way ; )

So it is an honor long overdue, but I am grateful that Hublot has brought out these two new models as a chapeau to the man who started it all.

But for me, there is a great deal more to Mr. Crocco than just the OG Hublot. Because what is really a testimony is the good works he has undertaken after he sold Hublot to LVMH. He has truly lived a life of purpose and service through his work with Main Dans La Main, a charity focused on children's welfare in India, Italy, and Switzerland.


So back to the release -

Courtesy of Hublot

Per Mr. Crocco -

“When I created MDM Genève, it was a deeply personal endeavor – hands-on, heart-involved, driven by a singular idea: gold and rubber. Entrusting it to others, even good and talented hands, was never easy for me. Yet, returning to Nyon, visiting the Manufacture, and discovering the latest creations, I see profound continuity and mastery. I see what those hands have collectively built. Witnessing Hublot's evolution, I realize it was the best decision I ever made. It fills me with immense pride and deep gratitude. Today, seeing the very first design and the origins of the Art of Fusion brought back to life is deeply emotional,”

And Hublot has stepped up by earmarking a donation of CHF 100,000 to the Main Dans la Main (MDM) Foundation.

There are two versions, one in yellow gold -

Courtesy of Hublot

CLASSIC FUSION TRIBUTO YELLOW GOLD

REFERENCE
262.VX.1130.RX.MDM

CASE
Polished and Satin-finished 18k
Yellow Gold
Size: 38mm
Thickness: 9.5 mm
Water Resistant: 100m / 10 ATM

CASEBACK
Satin-finished Yellow Gold 18k

DIAL
Matt black

MOVEMENT
HUB1711 Manufacture Self-winding
Caliber
Oscillating weight: 18K Yellow Gold
No. of Components: 185
Frequency (Hz): 4 (28’800 A/h)
Power Reserve: Approx. 50 Hours

STRAP AND CLASP
Black Lined Rubber
18k Yellow Gold and Black-plated
Stainless Steel with Black-plated
Titanium Deployant Buckle

BEZEL
Polished and Satin-finished 18k
Yellow Gold
Polished titanium H-shaped
screws

price
25’000 CHF
30’200 EUR
30’900 USD
23’600 GBP

And one in white gold -
Courtesy of Hublot


CLASSIC FUSION TRIBUTO white GOLD

REFERENCE
262.WX.6870.RX.MDM

CASE
Polished 18k White Gold
Size: 38mm
Thickness: 9.5 mm
Water Resistant: 100m / 10 ATM

CASEBACK
Satin-finished White Gold 18k

DIAL
Black Onyx

MOVEMENT
HUB1711 Manufacture Self-winding
Caliber
Oscillating weight: Black Tungsten
No. of Components: 185
Frequency (Hz): 4 (28’800 A/h)
Power Reserve: Approx. 50 Hours

STRAP AND CLASP
Black Lined Rubber
18k White Gold and Black-plated
Stainless Steel with Black-plated
Titanium Deployant Buckle

BEZEL
Polished 18k White Gold
Polished Black-plated
Titanium H-shaped screws

price
25’000 CHF
30’200 EUR
30’900 USD
23’600 GBP




Friday, October 23, 2026

Zenith Version 12.0 - and Counting...

News reached the North Shore HQ of Henki Time a day or so ago about the not so rosy future of Zenith.


For those of you politely looking away from this protracted train wreck, here are the basics:

Having thrown an entire pot of spaghetti on the wall for the past 20 + years, and none of it sticking, the leadership at Zenith is proposing a few "changes"...

Now those of you recently arrived to Watch Town will likely not be aware of the constant and seemingly never ending reinvention of the folks from Le Locle. And in fairness? It's not the folks who design the watches, build the watches, and sell the watches - although they are the ones who will be paying the price. No, gentle reader, from Nataf, to a licorice assortment of temporary place holders, Zenith has struggled to not only have a steady hand at the wheel, but to clearly identify their place in Watch Town and make a real and sustained impact in retail.

One particular anecdote that to me typifies this malaise (albeit a rather "blue" one) goes back to BaselWorld and the flustered CEO explaining the concept behind having a full service barber offering haircuts and shoe shines in the booth. He joked that if things didn't improve, the next year's BaselWorld promos might involve certain things that I'd rather not go into in this space...

All of that being in the past, let's talk about where we are now. And this is just little me talking. Zenith does not inhabit the upper price echelons. It is not Patek, in fact it's not even IWC or honestly even Panerai. And I want to be clear, this is not about quality. Zenith makes an AMAZING product. But they have never, ever, been able to stay consistent and market it. They constantly get the "fidgets". This unwillingness to see things through leads to a product line that seems to be far too big, and a bit all over the place. This inevitably leads to the grey market being a likely landing place for so many "misfit toys".

The idea that Zenith's current CEO is proposing seems logical enough - super expensive, small volume brands are doing well. So let's decamp to the lofty heights of Hauteville!  But this is forgetting one important little nugget of recent history - it is far easier to reduce your prices than to increase them. Or more specifically, it is super hard to reinvent your brand ethos and get the people who actually spend coin of the realm on such luxuries as watches to buy into your new identity at the higher sticker price.

And now let's get back to the folks who are getting the fuzzy end of the lollipop - the workers. Yes, once again upper management will be fine. But if the stories out of Le Locle are to be believed, half of the staff at the manufacture will be no longer there - that's 100 jobs.

Now on the one hand, Mr. De Clerck is correct, a company can't continue to lose money indefinitely. But let's be real. Zenith didn't get to this current situation over night. As the owner of a Zenith El Primero (which I treasure), I certainly want to the brand succeed and thrive. 

Whether it will succeed through yet the latest reinvention or not remains to be seen. But as someone who counts more than a few folks who ply their trade in Le Locle, I wish them good luck and Godspeed.