The BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest addition to the BR-05 collection. The case and integral bracelet are of stainless steel, with a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The case measures 40 mm in diameter and is 10.5 mm thick. The display case back is sapphire crystal.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The movement is the BR-CAL.321-1, which is  self-winding (automatic) mechanical. It boasts 54-hour power reserve.

The BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel can also be had with a rubber strap -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Limited to 250 pieces, it is priced at $6,300 with stainless steel bracelet, and $5,800 on the rubber strap.

One Week with the Hanhart Pioneer Mk 1

This is a review probably 14 years in the making. New readers of "the Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit" will be unfamiliar with one key piece of Henki history. Back in mid-to-late Autumn of 2011 I got acquainted with the people running Hanhart. One thing led to another, and by June I was an unofficial PR / evangelist for Hanhart. And that first vintage of the "new" Pioneer was pretty good. But a lot has happened between 2011 and now. Least of which include the change of ownership, management, and a quantum leap in terms of quality.

But time waits for no man - or watch reviewer ; )

So let's jump right in -

The Folks at Hanhart were kind enough to include an extra strap to spice things up -

The packaging is similar to what was first utilized by Hanhart back in the day - and that is reassuring!

A cardboard outer box holds a very nicely finished leather roll that secures the Mk1 and will continue to be useful long after other watch company's packaging is aging and molding in your garage or basement ; )

Now packaging aside, a good watch is one you will wear. And to be wearable, it needs to be comfortable, and of a reasonable size. The Mk 1 scores a 10/10 on both counts. The case measures in at 40 mm in diameter, and the lugs are slightly curved. This helps the wearability quite a bit as the Mk 1 is not what would be considered a "skinny" watch with a width of 15 mm. Despite this, the Mk 1 has been a joy to wear. This comfort is enhanced by the attention to detail with the case finishing - not a sharp edge or rough finish to be found. This is a welcome departure compared to many watches that cost as much (if not more) but have the "cheese grater" impact on the wearer's wrist. 

Now it goes without saying, that unlike Playboy, you come to this blog for the writing - not the "pictures", but this will well illustrate the case back finishing. Clearly laid out, clearly identifiable, yet smooth and comfortable to wear.

Also please note the space where the strap attaches to the lugs - a quick release spring bar is utilized! It sounds like a small thing, but this is HUGE! A real pleasure to be able to quickly change straps without a tool - and without potentially scratching your watch! 

Speaking of straps -

I wore both the brown and the black (above) and the quality of the leather, and the finishing was top-shelf. A very definitive improvement from Hanhart's straps in 2012.

Okay, let's address the elephant in the cockpit - a white dialed flieger!

So... when I was offered the opportunity to review a Hanhart, I not only chose this watch (the Pioneer Mk1), but I also chose this dial color. I wanted to review the Mk1 to see if things at Hanhart had changed - and YES - all for the better! But in truth? I wanted to go a little bit deeper. 

I love Steve McQueen. Probably not for the same cinematic reasons as most watch "bros".

I became acquainted with Mr. McQueen watching The Sand Pebbles as a young boy in Northern Ohio. We had a color tv downstairs, and a small black and white tv that I would often "borrow" and move into my room to watch the late night movie. The Sand Pebbles would rotate through Channel 43 (our local UHF channel) at least once if not twice a year. The film also featured Richard Attenborough. I identified with McQueen as the outsider, trying to do the right thing, often misunderstood, but still steadfast in his stance. In essence - to do the right thing because it is the right thing, regardless of the consequences. With that said, although he was a Hanhart owner it was a traditional black dial. I wanted to consider a somewhat "contrary" Hanhart - one with a white dial. 

Watches, like any other item we wear, are subject to classification. When I read or hear "flieger", I picture a somewhat goofy group of watch journalists (almost exclusively men) who have never flown (beyond being a passenger on Swiss Air) but are ready to rhapsodize long and hard about what makes a pilot's watch. If watch companies were solely dependent upon pilots who wanted an "old-timey" watch to wear to harken back to yesteryear, they might have a pretty short runway. With that said, Hanhart is making watches that not only live up to the rigors that pilots might have experienced in the "Big Wars", but actually translate to practical use for non-pilots like yours truly.

I opted for the white dial because I wanted to challenge convention - that a pilot's watch dial had to be black. Apparently it doesn't need to be black, it just needs to be legible. And the Pioneer Mk 1 (white) is absolutely that!

So let's talk about timing -

The Pioneer Mk1 is for realsies! Although, hopefully, nobody reading this will be hopping into a Sopwith Camel to do battle with the Red Baron, the Mk1 would be more than up to the task.

In terms of time keeping the watch was true. I observed a variance of + 5 seconds and -3 seconds over the week.

In terms of power reserve, it exceeded expectations (as well as published predictions) and went 43.34 over the advertised 42 hours. Granted these weren't laboratory tests, but based on GPS time indications.

And now, the phrase that I hate (because it is just dumb) "the value proposition". Let's be real with each other - the Pioneer Mk 1 is not (at least by my standards) an "impulse" buy. In the lower 48, it is priced at $3.490. But at that price it is more than fair in terms of what it delivers. Take away the monopusher chronograph feature and focus on the overall quality of the watch itself. Yes, it is that good!

It is beyond reproach. The time keeping, case finishing, and overall wearing comfort make the Mk1 a watch that stands out beyond it's classification as a pilot's watch or "fliger". 

I have thoroughly enjoyed wearing it, and if you love pilot's watches, but are seeking something a wee-bit different? This could be in your wheel house. I personally highly recommend it!

Here are the pertinents -

CASE: 

DIMENSIONS

• Diameter 40 mm
• Height 15 mm

MATERIAL

• Stainless steel

BEZEL

• Fluted bezel with red marking
• Large crown and red pusher

GLASS

• Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides

CASE BACK

• Screwed case back

WATER RESISTANCE

• Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310

• 
  Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides

CASE BACK

• Screwed case back

WATER RESISTANCE

• Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310

MOVEMENT -

CALIBER

• Automatic chronograph movement HAN3601
• Base: ETA7753
• Single lever handle conversion
• 28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 27 jewels

POWER RESERVE

• 42 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS

• Small second
• 30-minute counter

The Mechanica Bi-Compax

From DONE  -

Courtesy of Done

This is the latest offering from DONE, a bi-compax slightly skeletonized chronograph.

Otherwise known as the Mechanica B-Compax, it is currently a pre-order item (on the plus side? pre-order priced). 

Courtesy of DONE

Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Machined in 316L stainless steel (1.4435), the case measures 40 mm in diameter with a total thickness of 14.20 mm (only 9.25 mm without the sapphire crystals). Its two “box” sapphire crystals, extra-hard and anti-reflective, ensure optimal readability and exceptional scratch resistance. Designed to last, the watch is water-resistant to 10 ATM / 100 meters.

Movement:
The La Joux-Perret L111 bi-compax calibre, personalized in the “DONE Skeleton” version, displays hours, minutes, and seconds, with date at 6 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph. Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 A/h), it offers a 60-hour power reserve and features a column-wheel chronograph system. Its anthracite/ruthenium finishes, decorated with Geneva stripes, skeletonized date disc, and a signed “DONE” oscillating weight, demonstrate a meticulous attention to detail.


Strap:
The strap is made from FKM rubber, both durable and comfortable. It features a quick-release system with spring bars and measures 20/18 mm in width and 115/70 mm in length, perfectly balanced on the wrist. It is paired with a 316L steel deployant clasp, elegantly signed DONE.


Dial and Hands:
The sapphire dial has a double-sided anti-reflective coating. Its black opaline flange is enhanced with Super-Luminova BGW9 Grade A at each hour marker, ensuring excellent visibility in the dark. A silicone gasket beneath the dial acts as a shock-absorbing system, reinforcing the watch’s overall durability. The faceted, diamond-cut hands, also filled with Super-Luminova BGW9 Grade A, complete the ensemble beautifully.

Talk Like A Watch Pro - The Big Comeback!

Okay, it's been a minute, but after putting on The HYPE a few months back, I am happy (and you are no-doubt relieved) to know that Watch Town still has the ability to generate its very own unique lexicon.

I will be providing a refresher, but first? Some new bon mots that will have you talking and feeling just like the big boys and girls in Watch Town -

"Deep South"

The direction retail prices go when your production exceeds your sales actuals by 500% or so. We all get these emails - "Last chance for huge savings!" A multitude of reasons are offered, but long story short? Someone over-spent their allowance and mom and dad aren't happy about it. As that other great commentator on the watch business (Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko) would remind us - 

"The key to the game is capital reserves. If you don't have enough, you can't piss in the tall weeds with the big dogs."

"Nickeled for a dime" i.e. someone sold you a nickel for a dime

It's an expensive proposition to participate in a watch show, particularly in NYC. Approximately $8,000 USD will get you enough space to place a tray full of watches on a "modest" sized table while half of humanity lazily strolls past your booth. This, of course, is great news for alternative shows...

"New investment"

Someone's buying, someone else is selling. No more, no less.

"Nobody likes to hear that their baby is ugly"
Translation?  When you are asked - "What do you think of our novelties?"  You are really being asked - "Could you please offer an affirmation that this watch is great?"

"I'mGonna'stan"
A fictional country that is more a place of the imagination than an actual reality. I'mGonna'stan is a magical place where everything will happen soon, like tomorrow, and tomorrow never arrives.  

"Pick Your Poison"
Translation - you're screwed either way, and I don't really care.

"My friend"
Translation - You fucking asshole.

"You're just like the Tin-Man"
Translation - You've got no heart.  Usually reserved for sales managers just before they are "freed up to pursue new professional opportunities".

"We don't cover brands like that"
Translation - Pay me, and then maybe we'll cover you.

"Our writers are very busy, but a sure way to promote your brand is through a sponsored post!"

See above.

"We're a small, independent brand and can't afford advertising"
Translation - My best friend's spouse works for another media outlet and we already pay them. We're not going to pay you now, or ever, but you should still make time to cover us because, you never know ; )

"We don't make any decisions regarding marketing, sales or advertising during (insert BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc.), but shoot me an email in a few weeks and we can follow-up then."
Translation - Of course we make decisions at BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc., we just have no desire to listen to, consider or entertain any proposal that you might be offering.  But! Here's a nice paper tote bag and an outlandishly heavy catalog (filled with poor spelling and grammatical errors)!  Thanks for stopping by!