Wednesday, December 10, 2025

The Mechanica Bi-Compax

From DONE  -

Courtesy of Done

This is the latest offering from DONE, a bi-compax slightly skeletonized chronograph.

Otherwise known as the Mechanica B-Compax, it is currently a pre-order item (on the plus side? pre-order priced). 

Courtesy of DONE

Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Machined in 316L stainless steel (1.4435), the case measures 40 mm in diameter with a total thickness of 14.20 mm (only 9.25 mm without the sapphire crystals). Its two “box” sapphire crystals, extra-hard and anti-reflective, ensure optimal readability and exceptional scratch resistance. Designed to last, the watch is water-resistant to 10 ATM / 100 meters.

Movement:
The La Joux-Perret L111 bi-compax calibre, personalized in the “DONE Skeleton” version, displays hours, minutes, and seconds, with date at 6 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph. Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 A/h), it offers a 60-hour power reserve and features a column-wheel chronograph system. Its anthracite/ruthenium finishes, decorated with Geneva stripes, skeletonized date disc, and a signed “DONE” oscillating weight, demonstrate a meticulous attention to detail.


Strap:
The strap is made from FKM rubber, both durable and comfortable. It features a quick-release system with spring bars and measures 20/18 mm in width and 115/70 mm in length, perfectly balanced on the wrist. It is paired with a 316L steel deployant clasp, elegantly signed DONE.


Dial and Hands:
The sapphire dial has a double-sided anti-reflective coating. Its black opaline flange is enhanced with Super-Luminova BGW9 Grade A at each hour marker, ensuring excellent visibility in the dark. A silicone gasket beneath the dial acts as a shock-absorbing system, reinforcing the watch’s overall durability. The faceted, diamond-cut hands, also filled with Super-Luminova BGW9 Grade A, complete the ensemble beautifully.


Monday, December 8, 2025

Talk Like A Watch Pro - The Big Comeback!

Okay, it's been a minute, but after putting on The HYPE a few months back, I am happy (and you are no-doubt relieved) to know that Watch Town still has the ability to generate its very own unique lexicon.

I will be providing a refresher, but first? Some new bon mots that will have you talking and feeling just like the big boys and girls in Watch Town -

"Deep South"
The direction retail prices go when your production exceeds your sales actuals by 500% or so. We all get these emails - "Last chance for huge savings!" A multitude of reasons are offered, but long story short? Someone over-spent their allowance and mom and dad aren't happy about it. As that other great commentator on the watch business (Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko) would remind us - 

"The key to the game is capital reserves. If you don't have enough, you can't piss in the tall weeds with the big dogs."

"Nickeled for a dime" i.e. someone sold you a nickel for a dime
It's an expensive proposition to participate in a watch show, particularly in NYC. Approximately $8,000 USD will get you enough space to place a tray full of watches on a "modest" sized table while half of humanity lazily strolls past your booth. This, of course, is great news for alternative shows...

"New investment"
Someone's buying, someone else is selling. No more, no less.

"Nobody likes to hear that their baby is ugly"
Translation?  When you are asked - "What do you think of our novelties?"  You are really being asked - "Could you please offer an affirmation that this watch is great?"

"I'mGonna'stan"
A fictional country that is more a place of the imagination than an actual reality. I'mGonna'stan is a magical place where everything will happen soon, like tomorrow, and tomorrow never arrives.  

"Pick Your Poison"
Translation - you're screwed either way, and I don't really care.

"My friend"
Translation - You fucking asshole.

"You're just like the Tin-Man"
Translation - You've got no heart.  Usually reserved for sales managers just before they are "freed up to pursue new professional opportunities".

"We don't cover brands like that"
Translation - Pay me, and then maybe we'll cover you.

"Our writers are very busy, but a sure way to promote your brand is through a sponsored post!"
See above.

"We're a small, independent brand and can't afford advertising"
Translation - My best friend's spouse works for another media outlet and we already pay them. We're not going to pay you now, or ever, but you should still make time to cover us because, you never know ; )

"We don't make any decisions regarding marketing, sales or advertising during (insert BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc.), but shoot me an email in a few weeks and we can follow-up then."
Translation - Of course we make decisions at BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc., we just have no desire to listen to, consider or entertain any proposal that you might be offering.  But! Here's a nice paper tote bag and an outlandishly heavy catalog (filled with poor spelling and grammatical errors)!  Thanks for stopping by!

Saturday, December 6, 2025

Remembering Dino Zei

I have been thinking a lot about the early days of The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit. One of the kindest, and most generous people I had the chance to meet was Dino Zei.

There are times that I feel if I have to read one more hyperbolic press release scooped up and dumped on a tray from the all-you-can-eat bullshit buffet that seems to fuel many of the tonier watch "news" outlets, that my head might simply explode. From time to time you will be lucky enough to meet someone who reminds you that if you can swim through all of the codswallop, and find something genuine, it's hard not to be romantic about watches.

There were, of course, plenty of interesting watches at BaselWorld 2012, but the best part for me was meeting Dino Zei face to face.  In many ways, there would be no Panerai as it is known now if there had not been Dino Zei.

More than anything else, the thing that struck me was what an unbelievably nice guy he was.  He is no longer with us, but the collections he partnered with Anonimo on are still pursued by collectors.  Curious to relate, when Anonimo was sold off, completely different forums and collector's groups spun off - it was almost like the mid 80s which saw the ill-advised launch of New Coke, only to come back with Coca-Cola Classic a few months later.

A paper millionaire's plaything now, Anonimo did (and still does) have a lot of unrealized potential.  The Dino Zei brand is, unfortunately, not nearly as well executed as it could be, and is (in a personal effort to be charitable) curiously presented.

Shortly before his passing, Mr. Zei penned a wonderful history for Anonimo -

From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi
The History of a Florentine Brand

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man! And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -
Courtesy of Anonimo
James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it. It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand. I only remember how important that watch was for me. I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money. When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.



JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?

DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of “craftsmanlike” companies. Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative. These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market. The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales. Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors. For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up. I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason. Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation. I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea. And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo. The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea. The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me. Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

 
JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence). Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative. But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile. For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men. In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 


JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct? How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority. Military life is always marked by time. Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal. But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.


JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?

DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches. Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.


JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?

DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

 
JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group. It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market. The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book: "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts". I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources. Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.
 
JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do. All interesting, some prestigious.

 
JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?

DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife. I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her. I continue dealing with this with great pleasure. Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.


JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change? 

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military 
career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out. I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.

Friday, December 5, 2025

7 Days with the Hanhart PIONEER Mk I

Starts now. 


And why not throw in a little Walt Whitman to put us in the mood?

From "Pioneers! O Pioneers" -

O you youths, Western youths,So impatient, full of action, full of manly pride and friendship,Plain I see you Western youths, see you tramping with the fore- 
 most,
Pioneers! O pioneers!

(courtesy of the Walt Whitman Archive)

The OW MK-102 (Numbered) & OW MV-82 (Numbered)

Editor's Note - James Henderson is the North American Representative for Ollech & Wajs

From Ollech & Wajs -

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

Per OW - The OW MK-102 (above) is based on the 1969 K-101, a custom watch created for troops of the U.S. Army’s 2nd Infantry Division, known as the “Indianhead” Division.

Here are the pertinents:

Case
39.5 mm × 12.5 mm; 48 mm lug to lug, brushed 316L stainless steel, screwed bottom, screwed crown, rotating steel bezel; made in the Swiss Jura

Bezel
60-minute Tactical bidirectional friction bezel / PVD coated

Glass
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment

Dial
Hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®

Water resistance
300 m/ 30ATM

Movement
Automatic, bespoke Soprod P024; date-only calendar, with semi-instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown; stop seconds; 4Hz 28,800 vibrations per hour; 25 jewels; 38-hour power reserve; lncabloc. Bespoke OW Zurich 1956 rotor, OW-engraved platine, custom screws, assembled for OW and adjusted in three positions

Black RAF strap
20 mm military-grade grey nylon; finished in Switzerland; with a brushed stainless steel thorn buckle, signed ‘OWZ 1956’

M-Heritage bracelet (optional extra)
20 mm medium gauge, stainless steel mesh bracelet, hand-brushed, reinforced ends, with an OW-engraved thorn buckle

Origin
Handmade in the Swiss Jura

Price - 1,496.00 CHF

The first 56 pieces are numbered.


Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

Per OW - The MV-82 (above) is based on an archival piece that was originally produced for Airborne troops in 1970, and features the U.S. Army Parachutist Badge, or “Jump Wings” as it is better known. Awarded to soldiers who complete the U.S. Army Airborne School.

Here are the pertinents -

Case
39.5 mm × 12.5 mm; 48 mm lug to lug, brushed 316L stainless steel, screwed bottom, screwed crown, rotating steel bezel; made in the Swiss Jura

Bezel
360-degree compass bezel with an angle scale / PVD coated

Glass
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment

Dial
Hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®

Water resistance
300 m/ 30ATM

Movement
Automatic, bespoke Soprod P024; date-only calendar, with semi-instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown; stop seconds; 4Hz 28,800 vibrations per hour; 25 jewels; 38-hour power reserve; lncabloc. Bespoke OW Zurich 1956 rotor, OW-engraved platine, custom screws, assembled for OW and adjusted in three positions

Grey RAF strap
20 mm military-grade grey nylon; finished in Switzerland; with a brushed stainless steel thorn buckle, signed ‘OWZ 1956’

M-Heritage bracelet (optional extra)
20 mm medium gauge, stainless steel mesh bracelet, hand-brushed, reinforced ends, with an OW-engraved thorn buckle

Origin
Handmade in the Swiss Jura

Price - 1,496.00 CHF

The first 56 pieces are numbered.

Thursday, November 27, 2025

The 47° North River Blue

From Cimier -

Courtesy of Cimier

This is part of a new release from the folks next door to Tissot arena in Biel/Bienne.

The The 47° comes in several colorways which we'll spool out for you. This one is the The 47° North River Blue.

Courtesy of Cimier

The case is of stainless steel and measures 38 mm in diameter with a display case back.

The movement is ETA's 2824-2.

And the price - well it's well within reach at CHF 850.


You should want this watch!

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Central Second, Date
Case Material
Stainless steel 316L
Case Diameter
38 mm (46mm lug to lug)
Case Thickness
11.25mm including crystal
Crown
Large screw-down crown
Lug width
20mm
Crystal
Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Case Back
Screwed exhibition case back with flat sapphire crystal
Movement
ETA 2824-2
Dial
Grained, river blue, slightly gradient
Indices
Printed numerals with thick Swiss Super-Luminova GL old radium (LE) lume
Hands
Brushed baton hour and minute hands with polished chamfers. Orange-painted seconds hand. All hands filled with Swiss Super-Luminova GL old radium (LE) lume.
Strap
Blue suede calf leather with matching stiches
Buckle
Pin buckle with Cimier logo
Power reserve
38 hours
Water-resistance
10 ATM / 100m with screw-down crown





The Solune Grand Art Solaris Straw Marquetry

From Schaefer and Companions -

Courtesy of Schaefer and Companions

In all honesty, I was not acquainted with Schaefer and Companions until meeting Christophe Schaefer at the close of New York Watch Week.

With that said, it was nice to learn more about what he is up to and his watches are something a bit different, a bit special.


The watch above is the Solune Grand Art Solaris Straw Marquetry. It is a joint effort highlighting the engraving work of Boris Nemitz.

Learn more about it here -


The Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

Limited to 23 pieces. 

The case is of titanium, and measures 43 mm in diameter. The movement is listed as  Caliber BRELLUM BR-750RM Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux based) Officially Chronometer Certified by the COSC (delivered with certificate).

The price is CHF 3'232.19


The Goodman GMT

From TWCO -

Courtesy of TWCO

For those of you unfamiliar, TWCO stands for Tool Watch Company. This is their latest offering, a GMT.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter. The movement is Miyota's 9075.

Courtesy of TWCO

Very reasonably priced at $495. This is a pre-order item with deliveries anticipated to start in April, 2026.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE
Brushed stainless steel

DIMENSIONS
40 mm width
48 mm lug-to-lug

HEIGHT
12.4 mm

LUG WIDTH
20 mm

MOVEMENT
Miyota 9075
True GMT
Automatic winding
Manual winding
Hacking seconds
28,800 vph
42-hour power reserve
24 jewels
Jumping local hour

DIAL
High-gloss
Date at 6 o’clock

LUME
C 3 bi-coloured

LENS
German-made acrylic
Double-domed box

BEZEL
Fixed 24-hour

CROWN
7 mm screw-down

WATER RESISTANCE
10 ATM (100 M)

STRAP
Tapering FKM rubber
Machined buckle
 

Friday, November 21, 2025

The BR-X3 TOURBILLON MICRO-ROTOR

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest take on the BR - X3 , a skeletonized tourbillon with micro rotor.

Limited to 25 pieces only, it is a pre-order item. It is available for pre-order only, and deliveries will begin in December. Priced at $ 99,000

Here are the pertinents -

  • MOVEMENT

    BR-CAL.389. Proprietary automatic mechanical movement. 58-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours and minutes offset at 2 o’clock. Flying tourbillon cage at 5:30.

  • CASE

    40 mm wide. 9 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Customised polished and satin-finished bridges.

  • DIAL

    Skeletonised. Small sapphire fumé dial. Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    resistance: 50 metres.

  • STRAP

    Grey alligator skin.

  • BUCKLE

    Folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Wednesday, November 19, 2025

"It's Clean" The Tudor Ranger Beige

Which as we all know is what attracted Major Lawrence to the desert.

With those cinematic bon mots out of the way, on to the latest offering from Tudor -

Courtesy of Tudor

First impressions? Well, here gentle reader, I have to be honest -

Meh.... 
Meaning I was left unmoved, unimpressed, and uninspired. As mentioned on more than one occasion - I am the proud owner of a Tudor. I have had some desirous thoughts about the Tudor Professional (opaline dial), and although it's not everyone's baby, the pink dialed chronograph was an inspired release. And for once Tudor showed restraint by not flooding the market with a gazillion of them. What was mocked by some has become a hot ticket! 

So in fairness, Tudor can execute. It just seems that the execution is somewhat sporadic. The new Tudor Ranger in beige is not "born to dare". It is like my high school soccer coach - playing not to lose. When you're so fearful of losing, you become too afraid to win.

But with that said, and in all fairness, this might be just the ticket for you. So here are the pertinents, straight from Tudor -

Watch Specifications

Reference: M79930-0008