Wednesday, April 30, 2025

The Transfer Window Has Opened...

At Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

News made its way to the North Shore offices of "the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit" this AM that a swanky building up the hill from downtown La Chaux-de-Fonds is under new ownership. 

Corum will change hands once again under a management buyout, and Citychamp is down to Eterna and Rotary in terms of Swiss brands in its stable.

How this will ultimately play out remains to be seen, but in fairness to everyone concerned, Corum is a brand with a great history and a lot of potential. The buyout involves several (as yet) unnamed Swiss investors and the person taking the helm is Haso Mehmedovic . Mr. Mehmedovic trained as a watch maker in Le Locle, and if my information is correct has spent his entire career at Corum, moving from the technical side to sales.

So we wish Mr. Mehmedovic and his colleagues the very best of success moving forward, and we shall see what develops.

Tuesday, April 29, 2025

The Nautic 666 Automatic 39 mm

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

This is the last of Lip's 3 new musketeers representing the new R26D. The Nautic 666 is a classic dive watch, with a rich history. But as with everything that Lip is doing today, while it is paying homage, it is not living in the past.

The case is stainless steel, measuring 39 mm in diameter. The case itself is water resistant to 200 meters.

Courtesy of Lip

And under the hood, of course, is the R26D!


Monday, April 28, 2025

The Annapurna Automatique 39 mm

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

This is the Besançon brand's second act featuring the new R26D movement.

Courtesy of Lip

The case is stainless steel, measuring 39 mm in diameter.

 
It is offered in three different versions, but I have to admit that I am rather taken with the black dial version. With that said, the silver dial is quite striking as well -

Courtesy of Lip

Here are the pertinents -


Case  
Round stainless steel - brushed & polished finish
Dimensions: 
39 mm
Water Resistance: 
5 atm
Lug Width: 
20 mm

Movement
Movement Reference: 
R26D
Automatic mechanical movement.
Frequency: 
21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 
21
Accuracy: 
-5/+10 sec/Day
Power reserve (Mainspring fully wound): 
42 hours
Finishing:
LIP custom decoration of the gear bridge and the oscillating weight.
Functions :
Hours/minutes/seconds/date
Stop-second function

Sunday, April 27, 2025

The TYPE 14

From Lip!

Courtesy of Lip

This represents the first offering from the Besançon based brand to feature the new Caliber R26 -

Courtesy of Lip

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. It features a triangular marker that rotates inside bezel and can be adjusted via the second screw down crown.

Courtesy of Lip

The TYPE 14 is water resistant to 100 meters.

Courtesy of Lip

The strap is nubuck, and features quick change springs!



And this underscores the seriousness and sincerity of Pierre-Alain and the team at Lip as they steadily move forward not only reviving a once great brand, but moving it even further ahead!

And yes, I am a little biased ; )

Here are the pertinents -

Case: round brushed 316L stainless steel

Dimensions: 41 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Bezel: external notched and internal bidirectional rotating with triangular index
Functions:
Glass: slightly domed sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective treatment
Waterproofness: 100 meters
Case back: screwed flat glass


Movement: self-winding mechanical
Movement reference: R26D
Frequency: 21600 vibrations/hour.
Jewels: 21.
Accuracy: -5/+10 sec /Day.
Power reserve at full charge: 42 hours.
Finishing: personalized LIP decoration of the gear train bridge and oscillating weight.
3 hands: hours/minutes/seconds.
Date.
Stop seconds.


Dial: black textured tarmac style
Hands: luminescent silver
Index: Light beige luminescent Arabic numerals


Bracelet: camel nubuck leather
Quick release: yes
Clasp: exclusive LIP Manufacture pin buckle

Saturday, April 26, 2025

Caliber R26: the new self-winding movement from LIP!

We're going to have a lot of Lip goodness today, but as I'm headed to the gym I for what promises to be an exhausting and brutal barbell class, I want to make sure we start at the beginning - the movement!

Courtesy of Lip

So before going any further, I have a confession to make. I have known about the development of this new movement and the exciting new watch that it is matched with. I got to see a preview a few weeks ago while in Switzerland and France and have been (im)patiently waiting to see the release and be able to share it!

The Caliber R26 is Lip's new, proprietary movement. So for anyone out there who had any doubt as to how seriously Pierre-Alain Berard and the team in Besançon are taking the revival of Lip, doubt no longer!


And as they've put all the work in, I thought I'd let them share the news in their own words -


Convinced that it had to restore the nobility of the oldest French brand still in operation, LIP's management decided to launch production of the LIP R26 in-house movement.

After three years of patient work carried out in collaboration with the SupMicroTech engineering school in Besançon, this self-winding mechanical movement, 70% of the cost price of which is French and more specifically from the Besançon region, equips a first family of watches designed to meet the needs of demanding users, whether on land, at sea or in the air.


Lip R26

Technical Characteristics
  • Manufacture-made self-winding mechanical caliber, 26 mm in diameter and 5.92 mm thick.
  • Clockwork brass treated by electroplating and surfaces with sandblasted finishes.
  • Cost price 70% French.
  • Design, assembly and adjustment carried out in-house in Besançon.
  • LIP custom decoration of the gear train bridge and oscillating weight: laser carbonization of the LIP letters. Hexagonal screws for the oscillating weight, gear train bridges and balance wheel
  • Setting of rubies in the LIP Manufacture workshops in Besançon.
  • Regulating group oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.
  • 42 hours of power reserve on full charge.
  • Accuracy: from 5 seconds late to 10 seconds early per day.
  • Display: hours, minutes, central seconds, date window.
  • Quick date adjustment using the winding crown.
  • Stop second for more precise time setting.









So now, hopefully, I've got your attention!

Stay tuned, we've got a busy Saturday ahead of us as we roll this exciting news out!

Friday, April 25, 2025

Rowing Blazers x Bamford Babar GMT

It is safe to say, I am a Rowing Blazers x Babar fan. 2 t-shirts, 1 sweater, 1 ski jacket countless positive feelings. And the latest effort does not disappoint -
Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

This is the Rowing Blazers x Bamford Babar. It is based on Bamford's GMT model with Babar proudly at the center of things.

It is priced at $2,348, and is a pre-order item. Shipping is expected late June / early July.

Here are the pertinents -

  • Limited-edition Rowing Blazers x Bamford GMT featuring a Babar motif
  • Automatic GMT with an internal rotating bezel
  • Movement: Sellita SW330-2. 25 jewels. 28,800 VPH. 56-hour power reserve
  • Function: Self-winding mechanism with ball bearing. 3 o’clock date position with quick date setting. Second time zone by central hand
  • 40mm stainless steel case (11.7mm thick)
  • Stainless steel case back
  • Water resistant to 100m / 10 ATM
  • 20mm lug width
  • Packaged in a special collectable box
  • Limited to 99 units
  • FINAL SALE

Monday, April 21, 2025

This IS NOT A Story About Watches

Okay, maybe sort of... at least watches are involved.

Regular readers will know that I am about as big a fan of Watches and Wonders as root canal work sans anesthetic. But this year I went to Geneva to help out at the Ollech & Wajs booth -

I also wanted to check out some new brands, and possibly drum up a little business. That was, at least, the plan.

The plan included some other stops:

Bern for half a day (afternoon) and night, La Chaux-de-Fonds for lunch on Sunday, and a night at one of my favorite hotels - the Ruby Mimi in Zurich. And finally a treat for myself (assuming it was still available) at Jenni Uhren.


As per usual, I worked all day and then headed to Logan to catch the overnight to Zurich. Zurich connected to Geneva (a quick hop), and I grabbed my bag and found my way to the Villa Sarasin where the Time to Watches show was being held.

In the process I passed by the Watches and Wonders compound. And honestly? Now that I've seen it up-close and personal? I still don't get it. Clearly a lot of money was (and will continue to be) spent. And I felt a bit bad for the staff stationed outside, wearing something that resembled surgical scrubs in various hues. Curious to relate? A few special delegates were apparently too "special" to walk the 100 meters to the entry way and were driven. Which ordinarily wouldn't bother me, apart from nearly being run over...

Anyway, the show was good, but hectic. I ran into A LOT of old friends and colleagues and got down to work. The first day was a blur, a quick sausage with fries with my boss, and I found my way to the train bound for my hotel in Annemasse, France.

And then I got off the train. I stopped into the convenience store for some water, and plugging in the directions to my phone, started to walk, dragging my suitcase through what seemed like a semi-destroyed town. It was just after 10:00 PM and I'm not going to lie, I was starting to get a wee bit nervous. I was starting to have this bad feeling that people would be reading about me as a cautionary tale vis-a-vis the dangers of not looking for a taxi in a strange town after dark...

I got to my hotel, got checked in, fell into bed and was asleep before my head hit the pillow. And then I woke up... 

The sun was shining, and I was reminded of one important travel rule - never judge a place until you've seen it in daylight ; )




Feeling somewhat sheepish about my earlier trepidation, I followed my normal routine:

When you arrive in a new place during the night - Get a good night's sleep, enjoy a good breakfast, wander the town and let yourself get lost, try to use the local language, and don't be afraid to ask a stranger for directions.

And as per the condition of the town? It seems that nearly all of the streets had been ripped up in preparation for tram lines that would be installed. In the bright light of day it made perfect sense, but at 10:15 PM it gave a totally (in hindsight, false) impression. Annemasse is a beautiful town that I hope to spend more time in next year.

And the fair continued for the next few days, I saw some cool stuff -



And in between? I caught up with people I hadn't seen for years, promoted my book, and wolfed down lunch. And an important rule about working watch shows - allow flexibility in all things, but lunch is the one thing you can't compromise on.

And Saturday rolled around, and it was time to head home. I had picked up a watch that I had been admiring, and started packing up my bags, consolidating things into my main suitcase. I turned to see that someone had grabbed one of my bags and had started heading up the stairs with it. So I left my things and called out to him. He turned to look at me, and then turned back continuing to walk, only faster! I called out again. He shrugged, turned around and handed me back the bag. I went back downstairs and zipped up my bag, and left the Villa heading for the train station. My intention was to be on a train that would deliver me to Bern around 8:00 PM. Plenty of time for dinner and a walk around the city. I did my usual mental inventory, and just in front of the Palexpo I froze... I didn't have the bag with my new watch! I sprinted back towards the Villa - pulling a now very heavy suitcase, and absolutely sweating through my clothes. I dashed down the stairs and the bag with the watch was nowhere in sight. I went down to the area where we had been showing and informed both my boss and the folks at Elka that I couldn't find the bag with my new watch, and that it might have been stolen. I ask them to keep an eye out just in case, and pretty dejectedly, I headed back up to grab my suitcase and limp back to the train station. I felt like an idiot. My suspicion was that the kid had tried to distract me by grabbing one bag while someone else took my new watch. I had been played, like some rube in the big city. Hakim El Kadiri, the owner of Elka had followed me out, and like a patient parent trying to deal with a child mid-meltdown asked me -

"Did you check your suitcase?"

I took a beat, flipped my suitcase over and opened it up, and there near the top was my Elka watch, still in the bag. I sighed, looked at Hakim like that same mid-meltdown child who has just now realized that the world isn't really ending, and meekly said thank you. He smiled, wished me a safe trip, and headed back down to the show. 

I now double stepped it towards the train station, because I still had a chance to get the train I was hoping for. I got to the ticket machine and...

My bank card wasn't working. I tried another machine... no joy. I rooted through my wallet and gathered an assortment of Euros and Swiss Francs, and managed to cobble together enough coins and cash to buy a ticket to Bern! And... I missed the train by about 1 minute.

I waited the extra 30 - 40 minutes, got on the next thing steaming north and reminded myself about the importance of not panicking, keeping my cool, and enjoying the moment. And to this end I was truly enjoying the ride, looking out at the scenery. We had been underway a full 20 minutes or so, and just outside of Nyon, the train came to a stop. And this part I'll never forget. If you've never taken one of the main trains on the SBB system, allow me to inform you that there are typically three languages used (unless you are in Ticino / Lugano where it will be four) in this order:

French or German is first and/or second, depending upon the region. In this case French was first. But this next part was curious. The second announcement was not in German but rather in English. A rather shaky young female voice informed us that there had been an accident, and a person had been hit by the train. She couldn't tell us how long we would be there as it had to be investigated. And as the hours ticked by, first police, then engineers, and finally medical personnel arrived. The fact that the doctors arrived last, and seemed in no great hurry made it clear that someone had likely been killed.

Now think about this for a minute, this was in a semi-rural area, the train tracks were in a bit of a gulley with high embankments on either side - meaning that there was no reason for someone to be anywhere near where the train went through.

I texted my boss, I called my wife (Wendy) and let them know what has happened. And if I'm honest? I felt like I'd been hit square between the eyes with a two-by-four. The entire folly of my two panicky presumptions had been laid bare. And I also took that moment to remind myself how lucky I was, and that not everyone else was as fortunate. I realized that life, writ large, is fickle and fragile and pretty unfair.

Nearly two hours later, the train moved forward, but only to another stop. And then the next dominoes started to fall as train traffic had now backed up with hundreds of people waiting on the platforms of a small town between Geneva and Lausanne. Another 40 minutes later and the train finally arrived. We pulled into Bern around 10:45 or so. And I was fairly certain that dinner was going to be an impossibility. Yes, first world problems.

But then my luck changed.

Young Boys Bern had apparently had a big match that evening that ran late, and the station was flooded with black and yellow jerseys. And accordingly, most of the restaurants in the train station had stayed open. So I treated myself to what I seem to remember was called an Kebab Orientale. 

Spoiler alert - it was AWESOME! 

With my dinner in hand, I made my way to the exit, and tried to find my way to the hotel. A very kind person confirmed my directions and I made my way to there -


I enjoyed a lovely glass of wine and had a good chat with the night manager. 

I stayed up a bit later than usual, wrote some letters and journal entries. And climbing into bed, I closed my eyes and took a moment. I was at once relieved, sad, happy, introspective, embarrassed and ultimately grateful. I realized that we are, all of us out there in the world, trying not just to survive. So many are searching to find meaning, to find connection. 

To find joy. 

I close my eyes with the promise to do better. 


La Chaux-de-Fonds and Zurich were still ahead, and as my old father always used to say -

"Things will look much brighter in the morning!"


Stay tuned!








Saturday, April 19, 2025

Perhaps Just Under the Radar...

The Anillo GMT, from PAPAR -

Courtesy of Papar

So after a bit of a "timepiece" overdose in Geneva, I got a very pleasant surprise on my drive back from Lawrence the other day, courtesy of the Wrist Check Podcast.

This is the Anillo, and if I've understood things correctly, this is the first offering from Papar. And as they are just on the other end of the Commonwealth, I feel a wee bit sheepish that I hadn't heard of them before now. It is a wonderfully clever take on a GMT. Available in both stainless steel and rose gold PVD (my personal favorite) -

Courtesy of Papar

It is very reasonably priced at $750 US.
Courtesy of Papar

Here are the pertinents -

Diameter: 36mm

Thickness: 12.1mm

Lug-to-Lug: 43mm

Case Material: 316L Steel (rose gold PVD)

Water Resistance: 100m

Movement: Miyota 9075

Complication: Sub-dial GMT disc

Sapphire crystal with AR coating

Packaging: Leather watch roll

Initial Run: 100 numbered watches

Thursday, April 17, 2025

The due ore mese

Or or two time zones + date, from ochs und junior

Courtesy of ochs und junior

This is the latest offering from the ochs line, the due ore mese. Or for the anglophones out there, two time zones + date.

Courtesy of ochs und junior

Less is truly more, the due ore mese offers two timezones and the date, and does so with only the necessary parts to complete the module.

Courtesy of ochs und junior

The ochs line two time zones + date is available for pre-order at:
CHF 6,900. Export price
CHF 7,458.90 Incl. 8.1% Swiss VAT


The case measures 42mm x 12.5mm (incl. crystal), and is of titanium.


The  base movement is the Ulysse Nardin UN-118 with 60 hours power reserve. 

The following parts were designed by Ludwig Oechslin specifically for his two time zones + date. 1. Direction gear 2. Gear wheel 3. Timezones disc 4. Date disc 5. Module board (titanium provides the right elasticity for the spring visible on the left side of this part, which holds the timezone disk in place) 6. Dial 7. Hour hand 8. Minute hand 9. Seconds disc 10. Power reserve indicator

Saturday, April 12, 2025

Perhaps Just Under the Radar - Piccola & Jofrette

So one of my very happy discoveries in Geneva was this -


This is a "newish" brand headed up by Stephan Lack. And for those of you just tuning in, Stephan was one of the very first people I met at my first BaselWorld as a journalist. He just so happened to be presenting his new brand two booths down from where I was working at the Time to Watches show last week. And I must say, the PJ1 is a fantastic debut.


There are four different dial versions: blue, silver, eggshell, and anthracite. And yes, gentle reader, the anthracite is my favorite.

Piccola & Jofrette

Available with three different strap options: 
Courtesy of Piccola & Jofrette
Sturgeon (above)

Piccola & Jofrette

Light Brown Deer (above)

Courtesy of Piccola & Jofrette

Black Deer (above)


Priced at CHF  2,500.00


Here are the pertinents -


Case


Stainless steel

Finishing

Brushed and polished


Diameter

39mm

Height

9.6mm

Lug width

20mm

Crystal

Sapphire, multi-coated anti-reflective

Water Resistance

10 ATM

Manufactured in

Switzerland

Dial & Hands

Dial

polished stainless steel

Color

anthracite

Indices / Numbers

Indexes, Arabic numerals on 1/2, 4/5, 7/8, 10/11

Hour/minute hand

Rhodium-plated, in silver

Small second

Rhodium-plated, in bronze, at 6h

Manufacturing and tools

Switzerland

Movement & Functions

Factory

Automatic movement

caliber

PJ1

Functions

Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6H

frequency

28,800 semi-oscillations / hour

stones

27

Power reserve

42 hours

Manufactured in

Switzerland

Watch strap (sturgeon)

Sturgeon (origin Switzerland)

Naturally tanned, hand-stitched in Switzerland

Colors

Natural brown / silver stitching

Buckle

Stainless steel pin buckle

Easy Change Clip System