Saturday, January 24, 2026

The Faubourg de Cracovie 'Crossroads' Victory Green

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

A chronograph in green. This is the latest addition tothe Faubourg de Cracovie collection.

Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 41.5 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of Czapek

The movement is Calibre SXH3.

INTERNATIONAL RETAIL PRICE (before taxes) - 32’000 CHF - 34’600 EUR - 44’800 USD

Anyhoooo, if you are unlike 99.9999% of the people who will every read this and are ready to plop down just south of half a hundred grand, here are the pertinents -

FUNCTIONS 
- Chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds 
- Chronograph's minutes at 3 o'clock 
- Chronograph's hours at 9 o'clock 
- Small seconds at 6 o'clock 
- Date window at 6 o’clock

MOVEMENT 
- Calibre SXH3: haute horlogerie integrated automatic chronograph movement with a Czapek bespoke execution 
- Power reserve: 65 hours 
- Frequency: 5 Hz 
- 36'000 VpH 
- Column wheel, vertical clutch and linear hammer 
- 22 karat golden rotor with Czapek logo 
- Diameter: 30mm 
- 13 lines 1/4 
- Height: 6.95mm 
- Certified chronometer (COSC) 

FINISH 
- Finely sandblasted and diamond blasted anthracite bridges, snailed trottoirs

CASE 
- 41.5mm stainless steel case 
- 49mm Lug to lug (12h-6h) 
- Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment 
- Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment 
- Water resistance: 50m

DIAL 
- Handcrafted Czapek guilloché “Crossroads” dial in ‘Alloy 401’ (AuPtPdAg) in a vivid green colour - Black tachymeter scale 
- Baton applied indexes with Superluminova treatment 
- Double index at 12 o’clock with Superluminova treatment 
- Rhodium plated and blackened steel arrow hands

BRACELET 
- Size : 22mm / 18mm 
- Alcantara or calf strap with a deploying clasp

Wednesday, January 21, 2026

Two New Settimanas

From ochs und junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

Two new takes on the settimana. The first is a black pvd dial with pink hands and day marker. This, as well as the brown and gold version are offered in a 36 mm titanium case.

Courtesy of ochs und junior

The brown pvd dial differs in that it also has indices for the hour markers. The dial is brown pvd with gold hued hands and day marker.

The movement is ETA's 2824-2 Top Grade.

Here are the pertinents:

settimana PVD in black and pink Weekday watch designed by Ludwig Oechslin | Display of hours, minutes, and seconds | Display of the 7 days of the week via a pink dot rotating clockwise between 1 and 7 o’clock | 36 mm case in grade 5 titanium | ETA 2824-2 top grade | Dial and weekday disc with black PVD coating | Weekday dot, hour, minute, and second hands in pink. Not customizable | Ecopell calf leather strap (S/M/L/XL) and leather pouch, handmade by Sabina Brägger. Availability and Price CHF 2300 – Export price CHF 2486 – Incl. 8.1% Swiss VAT

settimana PVD in brown and gold colors Weekday watch designed by Ludwig Oechslin | Display of hours, minutes, and seconds | Display of the 7 days of the week by means of a gold-colored dot rotating clockwise between 1 and 7 o’clock | 36 mm case in grade 5 titanium | ETA 2824-2 top grade | Dial and weekday disc with brown PVD coating | Indexes, weekday dot, hour, minute and second hands in gold tones. Not customizable | Beige textile strap (S/M/L/XL) and calf leather pouch, handmade by Sabina Brägger. Availability and Price CHF 2300 – Export price CHF 2486 – Incl. 8.1% Swiss VAT

Both anticipate shipping 8 weeks from date of order.

Monday, January 19, 2026

Not Exactly New - But New To Me...Millemetri

 Yes, you read that right - Millemetri!

Courtesy of Millemetri

So regular readers of the "Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit" will recall that I have a long and winding relationship with Anonimo.

It is safe to say that without Federico Massacesi, there would have been no Anonimo. And although a slight blip with a brand named for Dino Zei that never quite came to fruition, with Millemetri it seems that there is finally (hopefully) something to replace the much loved (and in truth, often misunderstood) Anonimo Firenze (i.e. not the modern Anonimo currently languishing in Le Locle), but the original.

What sank the original Anonimo is hard to say, but what is currently throttling the new Swiss iteration is a lack of attention from the current stewards, as well as a collection of watches that (apart from the Militare) could be part of any collection, anywhere.

So what makes the Millemetri special? For one, the cases. Apart from the mystique of being a watch that better embodied the original Panerai than even the reborn Swiss Panerai, it was the Florentine cases. Add to that the Kodiak straps and it was truly lightening in a bottle.

The Millemetri was arguably the one design that Anonimo did the best with - at least it was when I was selling them at Tourneau in San Francisco back at the turn of the century ; )

The entry point of the Millemetri collection is the Augusta. It comes in three dial versions - black, blue, and Coffee (which is pictured above).

In addition to Florentine made cases, it also boasts a strap that might have a technological twist to offer an alternative to the Kodiak straps that the original Anonimo used - It is referenced as the AlaskaProTr.01 process (as of 2023 it was patent pending, I hope to get an update for you, gentle reader). Like the Kodiak process, it conditions the leather is such a way that it can be submerged in both fresh and salt water for up to 24 hours.

Back to the case - as mentioned, it is crafted in Florence, utilizing a special bronze alloy - UNI52575. It measures 42.80 in diameter. It features an automatic helium release valve (at 2 o'clock). The crown and escape valve are crafted of stainless steel, as is the case back.

The movement remains somewhat of a mystery to me as on the Millemetri site it is listed as Landeron, whereas at least one retailer indicates that it is either Landeron, or Sellita. My hope would be for Sellita.

The retail listed for the Augusta is listed at $1,959 on their website. 

I hope to be back with more details on the Millemetri collection. Although it is not "new", it is new to me, and I have a soft spot for Florentine watch making ; )


The Transfer Window Has Opened...

At Tag Heuer -

Although Miss Tweed had floated this news the middle of last week, I am a bit of a traditionalist and also think when you are unceremoniously dumped by the love of your life, you should be afforded some measure of dignity. So I have been waiting for an official announcement which has now been made. Former Tag Heuer Antoine Pin has, in the words of the caring, compassionate folks in the LVMH PR Department:

“decided to start a new chapter in his career”.

I have to be honest, that level of sentimentality gets me all choked up...

How do you sum up the career of someone who, let's be honest, gave A LOT to Tag Heuer and what was to become the LVMH watch division over several decades? Ideally something more eloquent than what was offered by the wordsmiths in LVMH's gas factory.

But as Watch Town has taught yours truly not so long ago - you can give and give and give, but nothing trumps family. Now in truth, unless Arnault - The Even Younger, or Arnault - The Gleam In The Milkman's Eye is kitted-up and stretching on the touch line, LVMH Watch Week is going to have the not-so-discreet waft of a damp fart with the absence of a CEO of the most important jewel in the crown.

We shall wait, and we shall see, but we wish Mr. Pin good luck and Godspeed.

Sunday, January 18, 2026

The Capri

From De Rijke & Co. -

                                        Courtesy of De Rijke & Co.

When most of us think about De Rijke & Co., we can be forgiven for thinking of their iconic take on a moonphase watch featuring The Netherlands' facorite rabbit, Miffy. 

This Capri is, in fact, quite the other thing - and in the best possible way!

 Courtesy of De Rijke & Co.

The Capri is offered in three different dial versions -black onyx stone, black aventurine stone or Capri blue. The Capri is limited to 50 pieces in each version, the pieces are not numbered.

Here are the pertinents -

• Case material: stainless steel caseback/crown


• Straps: tapered calf leather strap (24mm to

18mm at buckle)


• Case Width: 28.5mm


• Thickness: 6.5mm


• Case Length: 38mm


• Movement: La Joux Perret hand wound D100,

swiss made


• Dial: black onyx stone, black aventurine stone

or Capri Blue


• Sapphire crystal with transparent AR coating

on both sides


• Water Resistance: 3 ATM


• Edition: limited edition of 50 pieces per version


• Price: 2195 ex VAT, ex taxes (tariffs)


• Delivery expected: April/May ‘26

Saturday, January 17, 2026

Wanting To Like The Timex Atelier GMT

So, I'm conflicted...

Courtesy of Timex

Many of us who grew up in the lower 48 started our time-telling with a Timex watch. Back in the 70s you would find them on tons of wrist, both young and old. My own was this one -


My parents gave this to me when I was just a fart in a mitten. This was a "prize" of sorts for learning to tell the time. It is a hand winding movement (I'm sure quite industrial and rough), it probably cost not more than $25 (is my guess). We were, and continue to be, inseparable friends.

But back to the matter at hand -

Courtesy of Timex

Timex has been making a push to gain traction with "watch people", and that in and of itself is okay. With that said, I also think that part of Timex's charm was (and to some extent still is) accessibility. The idea of jobbing out a high end "Swiss" watch and calling it a Timex is, if I'm honest, not really on brand.

Regardless, the Timex Atelier GMT is a fine looking watch. It is of stainless steel, measuring 40 mm in diameter. The movement is a bit of a dubious choice - from Landeron, it offers four handed indications of "home" time and GMT. 

Courtesy of Timex

And then we come to the price - 
$1,450...

And that's where Timex, you've really lost me, as well as the plot.

Let's have a quick wee look at what $1,450 will buy you in a similar formation.

Courtesy of Mido


$1,500 will get you this from Seiko -

Courtesy of Seiko

While these are different brands, I think it is more than reasonable to compare them when the wordsmiths at Hodinkee will inevitably speak about the "Value Propisition". 

So while I want to like the Timex Atelier GMT, the price, movement, and frankly the lack of "Timexness" (i.e. the lack of common thread beyond just the Timex name) are a bit too off- putting for this particular child of the 70s, but ultimately we make our choices and take our chances.


Thursday, January 15, 2026

Just Under The Radar

The MC-1 from Split Watches -

Courtesy of Split Watches

This one was certainly not on my radar, but I must say that I am a bit intrigued.

The MC-1 is the creation of Ed Margulies. Mr. Margulies has had stints as the UK distributor / brand manager for several well known Swiss brands and has since focused his energies on launching his own brand - Split.

The first piece to launch is the MC series, and although it comes in several colorways, my personal favorite is the MC-1.

Courtesy of Split Watches

The MC-1 is a bi-compax chronograph. It is powered by Seiko's NE86A, a self-winding (automatic) movement. The case measures 42 mm in diameter and is of
Ceramod+, if the AI info is to be believed, Ceramod+ is a proprietary blend of ceramics and polymers unique to Split.

Courtesy of Split Watches

Now full disclosure, I have never seen or held one in person, but it is a striking time machine. I will try to reach out Split to see if I can get some more background ; )

Wednesday, January 14, 2026

The Hydrium Ice Fall

From Isotope -

Courtesy of Isotope

This is Isotope's first watch to use a stone dial. In this instance, Brazilian amethyst.

Courtesy of Isotope

The Hydrium Ice Fall's case is of (micro-blasted) 316L stainless-steel, and measures 40 mm in diameter.

Courtesy of Isotope

Under the hood is La Joux Perret's G101 Soigné.

Limited to 20 pieces, and priced at $1,703.00


Here are the pertinents -

Case:
Micro-blasted 316L stainless-steel case
Case diameter 40mm X 48mm (with lugs)
Height 12.9mm (14.9mm with double domed Sapphire Crystal)
Hydrium® screw-down exhibition case back
Unidirectional bezel with 120 clicks
Crystal, Dial and Hands:
Anti-reflective crystal sapphire
Screw-down crown at 3 o’clock
Brazilian amethyst dial, 0.4 mm thick, mounted on a support ring, with applied indexes filled with Super-LumiNova
Hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®, paired with a heat-blued seconds hand
Water-resistance 300m / 30 atm / 1000 ft

Strap:
22/20mm quick-release White FKM strap with Isotope’s branded bead-blasted buckle

Movement:
Swiss Made La Joux Perret G101 Soigné MovementAutomatic, self-winding
Power reserve 68 hours
24 Jewels, 28800A/h
Tested in 4 positions, averaging ±7 seconds/day
Soigné finished with a custom Isotope Lacrima rotor

Monday, January 12, 2026

Just When I Thought I'd Bought My Last Watch...

Stepan Sarpaneva and S.U.F. Helsinki drag me back in! 

Courtesy of S.U.F. Helsinki

Okay, as someone who lived and worked in Finland for four years, I can tell you that it is a special place. And it has given birth to some very special watch makers. And by my estimation, the most special is Stepan Sarpaneva. And with his S.U.F. Helsinki brand he has harnessed his creativity and channeled it into a more affordable option.

Courtesy of S.U.F. Helsinki

This is the S.U.F. Helsinki X Moomin Bronze. It is pretty near perfect! 

Courtesy of S.U.F. Helsinki

In their own words -

Discover the essence of storytelling through the captivating Tove Jansson Illustration from the book “Moomin and the Comet” protected by the new S.U.F Helsinki Diver's watch case. With three layers of hand-finished dial parts, seven Superluminova colors, Harpoon hands and a "Comet" engraved bronze turning bezel adds a touch of character and charm to this timeless piece.

And I'm inclined to agree ; )

Here are the pertinents, straight from Helsinki -

Available in two versions, each limited to just 30 watches.High-grade stainless steel case from Finnish Outokumpu steel 3 Part Stainless Steel, Moomin diving illustration from the book “Moomin and the Comet” By Tove Jansson, Hand Finished, Hand Painted Swiss (6) Super-Luminova®
Bronze turning Bezel with “Comet” Laser engrawing, hand finished.
Swiss Soprod A10 Calibre - reworked at our workshop. Hand-assembled in the heart of the Finnish capital, at the SarpanevaUhrenFabrik workshop

"This collaboration introduces a unique creation that celebrates craftsmanship, storytelling, and design in a collection of only 60 pieces. This release marks a special moment for both S.U.F Helsinki and Watches of Switzerland as they bring together heritage and modern design, honouring the timeless art of watchmaking. Available in two distinct colour variants—each limited to only 30 pieces—the watch offers a choice between blue or red gold-tone hands."

Only available from Watches Of Switzerland.

SGD 8,930
(Around 6300€)

Saturday, January 10, 2026

The Cenote

From Papar -

Courtesy of Papar

The dynamic duo behind Papar has taken a beat, and come back with something special. A sporty diver that is a refreshing change from the standard issue Submariner tribute.

The Cenote is available in two versions. A rose gold PVD titanium (my personal favorite), and for the not as stylistically daring, a more subdued (but still different) titanium model with what I will call a "latte" dial. 

Courtesy of Papar

Both priced at $995. 

Here are the pertinents, straight from Papar -

Courtesy of Papar

Cenote - Rose Gold Titanium


Diameter: 40mm

Thickness: 10.9mm

Lug-to-Lug: 47mm

Weight: 60g (including strap + buckle)

Material: Rose Gold PVD coated Titanium

Bezel Insert Material: Gloss black ceramic

Movement: Miyota 9015

Sapphire crystal with AR coating

Strap: Sailcloth

Buckle: Titanium

Packaging: Leather watch roll

Initial Run: 100 numbered watches

Courtesy of Papar

Cenote - Titanium + Blue

Diameter: 40mm

Thickness: 10.9mm

Lug-to-Lug: 47mm

Weight: 60g (including strap + buckle)

Case Material: Titanium

Bezel Insert Material: Matte blue ceramic

Lume: Lumè (Superluminova Fumè) dial + lume hands

Water Resistance: 200m

Movement: Miyota 9015

Sapphire crystal with AR coating

Strap: Sailcloth

Buckle: Titanium

Packaging: Leather watch roll

Initial Run: 100 numbered watches


 

Friday, January 9, 2026

The Transfer Window Has Opened - and A Great Loss to Watch Time

I have known Roger Ruegger for more than a minute. Our paths first crossed when I was working for DOXA North America (Synchron) and we got to know each other a little better when I crossed the aisle and started Tempus Fugit working in both the Fourth and Fifth Estates. Roger was (and continues to be) a keen fan of diving watches, and was a friend and supporter of smaller, independent brands. His approach to dive watch coverage pre-Watch Time was extremely egalitarian, and merit based. The name on the dial was not necessarily as important as what went into the watch itself. Many now, more established brands owe a great debt to Roger's enthusiastic support of their efforts.

Word has reached the North Shore offices of the "Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit" that Mr. Ruegger will be moving on from Watch Time. And this, for me, marks a bit of a turning point in Watch Town. Way back when (2011 - 2014) there was a bit more camaraderie amongst the media outlets (with a few notable exceptions). We all had day jobs and we all paid our own way to BaselWorld. While I wouldn't say we were all "besties", there was not the same need to "flex" as there seems to be now.  Some of the big dogs I remember when they were wee pups that still peed on the carpet. And this is what has set Roger apart. Even after landing what is considered one of the most coveted jobs in watch media, he still made a point of maintaining relationships, never tried to "dk" (don't know) people.

Obviously change is inevitable, and following a prolific 10 years at the helm of Watch Time, Roger is leaving the party while it is still full, so I say good for him!

Whoever the next person is to slot into the role, they will have some big swim fins (shoes) to fill ; )

Bravo Roger on a job very, very well done, and wishing you the best of success moving forward.

Tuesday, January 6, 2026

The Transfer Window Has Opened

At Urban Jürgensen...

Minority share holder and former co-CEO Kari Voutilainen will step away from his role at Urban Jürgensen, passing the mantle to new (sole) CEO, Alex Rosenfield. For those of you who might have missed it, the Rosenfields along with some other backers purchased the majority shares of the brand a few years back, and Mr. Voutilainen has worked with Rosenfield the younger to bring UJ back into the public eye.

Now there have been (in the back tap rooms of Watch Town) some moaning about outsiders (particularly non-European) taking the wheel of a famous brand. But let's be honest with ourselves, it had never previously been as successful as it might have been. And in truth? UJ has been much more on the radar of both collectors and the aspiring than ever before, so it seems that the Rosenfield's ownership might just be the extra somethign that the brand needed.

As for Mr. Voutilainen? The man has more than his share of irons in the fire, and (as far as we know at the North Shore HQ of "The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit") is still a minority shareholder. I suspect he will be delving back into personal projects that he has been putting off. So a big Kiitos to Mr. V!

So here's hoping that the re-boot of Urban Jürgensen will continue to gain steam. We have plenty of groups and conglomerates in Watch Town, it's nice to have some variety ; )

Monday, January 5, 2026

Doing Good - The S10-0804 "Zellige"

From Elka -

Courtesy of Elka

This is the latest from Elka, a watch designed with a purpose beyond looking good while telling the time ; )

Followers of the "Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit" will attest that I am a sucker for a good cause, as well as anything that addresses what separates us while bringing us closer together, and helps break the "sapphire crystal" ceiling that still exists for women around the world. So when I heard that Elka was producing a watch to support a rally team in the the Rallye des Gazelles (also known as Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc) I was already hooked. But it gets better! The team is known as Les GAS’elles! In their own words:
Our name, Les GAS’elles, is a play on words combining our names, Alexia and Sheeba (with the addition of Ghizlane, our mascot), symbolizing the energy and determination we are bringing to this adventure. We can’t wait to share this journey with you; this challenge isn't just ours—it belongs to everyone who believes in us and the cause we represent.

Courtesy of Elka

Here's a breakdown, straight from Elka -

Destination Morocco: Supporting Our Gazelles for the 2026 Rally!


At the crossroads of precision engineering and desert endurance, Elka Watch Co. is proud to stand behind Team GAS’elles (Crew 101).
Alexia and Sheeba, two courageous "Gazelles," are preparing for the challenge of a lifetime: the 35th Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles. This is an adventure where audacity meets solidarity—values that sit at the very heart of Elka Watch Co.

The "Zellige" Project: Horology Meets the Dunes
To fuel their journey through the dunes and support a cause dear to us, we have created the S10-0804 "Zellige". This limited edition of 101 pieces is inspired by Moroccan heritage and the vast horizons our Gazelles will soon navigate.

Pre-orders are now open! Whether you are across the street or across the globe, you can join this solidarity chain. These exclusive timepieces are available for pre-order now, with deliveries starting in late January 2026.

A Mission of Solidarity
The distribution of these 101 watches is designed to transform passion into impact:
  • Auction for Zoé4life: Watch No. 001/101 will be auctioned during our solidarity event. 100% of the proceeds from this unique sale will be donated to the Zoé4life association, supporting children fighting cancer.
  • Direct Support for Crew 101: For every other watch purchased, a significant portion of the proceeds goes directly toward funding Alexia and Sheeba’s rally participation.
Join Us: Solidarity Event in Neuchâtel
If you are in the region, join us for an evening dedicated to Team 101:
  • Date: Wednesday, January 15, 2026, from 6:30 PM
  • Location: Elka Watch Boutique, Rue des Chavannes 16, Neuchâtel, Switzerland
  • On the Agenda: Presentation of the "Zellige" collection, the Zoé4life auction, and a selection of solidarity wines for sale to complete the crew's budget.
Can’t make it to Neuchâtel? You can still be part of the adventure. Secure your piece of history by pre-ordering your S10-0804 "Zellige" online today and receive it by the end of January.
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And here are the pertinents on the S10-0804 "Zellige", straight from Elka -


CALIBER
La Joux Perret G100 automatic 4 Hz / 28'800 A/h, stop second 68-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, centre seconds No Date
CASE MATERIALS
1.4404 steel
SCREWED CASE BACK
Steel 1.4404
DIAL
"Zellige" pattern with textured finishes, Sunbrused, Gradient Green color
HANDS
Brushed Rose Gold Colored- hours and minutes filled with beige Superluminova , beige painted second
GLASS
Chevé type sapphire - box - anti-scratch anti-reflective treatment on one side
BUCKLE
Steel 1.4404
CASE DIMENSIONS
40.8 mm in diameter 10.80 thick 46.50 mm Lug to Lug
WATERPROOF:
50 meters / 5 bar
BRACELET
Suede cognac color -Rembordé 
Width 20/18 mm
WARRANTY:
2 years

The SB04-E Winter 2026

From Sartory Billard -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

This is the latest from Armand Billard. Taking its design cues from the winter now embracing us, the dial is a wonderful display of snowflakes across a frosty background.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The dial's design is described as "Winter Frozen Lake". Having grown up in the Great Lakes region (or the "North Coast of America") I feel a certain affinity for both the design and its name!

The dial's unique design is achieved through embossing, 3D painting, lacquer, and pad printing.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Underneath the hood, the SB04-Winter 2026 is powered by a La Joux-Perret automatic movement.

Priced at a very, very reasonable €3100 on rubber / €3500 on metal bracelet. It is limited to just 26 pieces, so don't dawdle!

Here are the pertinents -

SB04-E Winter Edition 2026 Limited Edition

REF: SB04E1WIN26

Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed surfaces

Dial: Winter Frozen Lake - Embossing, 3D painting, laquer and padprinting

Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret automatic movement, 68-hour power reserve

Water Resistance: 100 meters

Bracelet Options:

– Sartory-Billard white rubber strap

– Sartory-Billard stainless-steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links, equipped with quick-release pins for easy strap changes

Saturday, January 3, 2026

The Son oF Tuoni

From Rönkkö Watches -

 

Courtesy of Rönkkö Watches

All the way from the second largest (by population) city in Finland, mighty Espoo, comes the latest offering from  Antti Rönkkö of Rönkkö Watches.

Courtesy of Rönkkö Watches

The Son of Tuoni is the latest addition to Rönkkö Watches collection.

Limited to 20 pieces.

Availability and Pricing Each variation is strictly limited to 20 pieces.

  • SON OF TUONI – 1 Moon Version: €12,700 (VAT 0%) / €15,938.50 (incl. 25.5% VAT)

  • SON OF TUONI – 2 Moon Version: €14,900 (VAT 0%) / €18,699.50 (incl. 25.5% VAT)

  • Delivery Time: 6–14 months from order.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

  • Modified Swiss made Soprod A10 caliber, diameter 25,6mm (11.5 ligne), 4 Hz/28,800 VpH
  • In-house Moon Complication, with five different variations available
    • Single full moon (bright) version
    • Single new moon (black) version
    • Dual moon version with full moon (bright) and new moon (black)
    • Dual moon version with full moon (bright) and full moon (bright)
    • Dual moon version with new moon (black) and new moon (black)
  • phases of the moon (29,5 days)
  • 42 hours power reserve
  • 25 jewels with Incabloc® shock protection
  • Bi-directional automatic winding with hand finished Ukonvasara shaped rotor

HANDS

  • Diamond cut stiletto design hands

DIAL

  • Hand finished rotating Jatuls’ Garden pattern dial with Tuonen Poika moon indicator/indicators
  • Diamond cut indexes
  • Bright full moon face of Tuonen Poika made of stainless steel
  • Black moon face of Tuonen Poika made of black colored stainless steel

CASE

  • Kokko the Mighty Fire Eagle talon design – diameter 41.9 mm and height 10.15 mm
  • Hand finished hardened IP black coated stainless steel 316L case with satin finished surfaces and polished edges
  • Dial side sapphire crystal with AR coating bottom side with silver metallization Rönkkö®logo
  • Exhibition case back with sapphire crystal with AR coating at the bottom side of the crystal
  • Hardened IP black coated stainless steel 316L crown with Rönkkö®-logo
  • Water-resistant 3 bar (30 meters)

BUCKLE

  • Hardened IP black coated stainless steel 316L

STRAP

  • Handmade genuine matt black alligator strap with Rönkkö ® -logo

Sunday, December 28, 2025

Don't Call It A Comeback - The Ref. 8315 GMT

From Serica -


Courtesy of Serica

Okay, in fairness this is not 100% brand-spanking new item. If it looks familiar, that is because it is, in many ways - save the bracelet. 

I got to have a sneak peek at this during The HYPE, when I ran into the team from Serica and they let me check it out.

Courtesy of Serica
So why is this "The Shit That Killed Elvis"? Steel bracelets are a pain in the backside to adjust, but we love them. They are what makes a sport watch a true sport watch. And this bracelet is what I like to call "Henki-Proof". What does that mean, gentle reader? Well suffice it to say, traditional steel bracelets require tools. Tools require coordination and dexterity, and let's just say that there are innumerable mechanical feats that yours truly is simply incapable of. So it's almost as if the guys at Serica had me in mind when they came upon the design ; )

Courtesy of Serica
In their own words -

A FANTASY OF PERFECT FIT

One size fits all, the dream of every steel bracelet, achieving a level of sizing precision that guarantees comfort and effortless adjustment throughout the day.

The Expedition bracelet merges the fine adjustability of our Bonklip with the structured geometry of folded blades, resulting in a bold new signature design.



So, if like me, you're interested... here are the pertinents -

Case:
Material: 316L Stainless Steel
Finishes: Alternating Polished-satin
Water resistance: 20ATM (200M)
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 12.30 mm
Lug to lug : 46,50 mm
Lug width : 20 mm

Movement:
Caliber: SOPROD C125 COSC
Finishes: Côtes de Genève
Movement: Swiss mechanical self-winding 23 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 ALT/HR (4HZ)
Power reserve: 40h
COSC: Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute

Bezel:
Insert: Single-piece two-tone ceramic
Ladder: AM/PM 24h, day/night indicator
Finishing: Polished “Desert Red” and Ivory

Dial:
Dial: Dark brown enamel with gold accents
Index: Domed luminescents in Super-Luminova C3

Glass:
Glass: Double domed sapphire
Thickness: 2 mm
Coating: Inner anti-reflection Coating

Hands:
Color: White lacquered
Luminescence: Super-Luminova C3, green emission

Bracelet:
Material: 316L stainless steel, woven, folded, and machined
Clasp: Signed spring-loaded clasp
Size: 20 mm
Wrist: One size, adjustable from 14.5 to 22 cm, palm diameter under 25 cm
Finishes: Alternating polished and satin-brushed
End-links: Signature Guilloché Integrated End-Links