Leaving Las Vegas

Now in the interest of transparency I will confide with you that I have not attended the annual watch and jewelry-cum frat party that is the twin shows put up by JCK and Couture since 2012.  And there is a reason.  The two shows were not well organized, they were at opposite ends of the strip, requiring a lot of patience, missed shuttles and inevitable taxi fares back and forth.  Things have in some ways improved, but in others fallen back to their earlier state.  

I have only the feedback of brands, writers and jewelers to go on, but the early returns are not exactly rosy.  Consider that Friday through Sunday, so if you haven't hit your targets in those few days?  You're kind of stuffed.

More and more brands are giving Las Vegas a miss, as are retailers.  A few brands, convinced that they are "outsmarting" the system will stay at a "Rat Pack" era hotel and set up "private meetings", which inevitably don't pan out.  Why?  Imagine you are attending these two shows.  It's a big enough pain to drag your ass from one end of the strip tot he other, let alone go "off road" for an appointment that may (and then again, may not) happen.  All too often the brand will decide that the first two days didn't pan out, so they blow off their remaining appointments and hit the casinos.  Yes, it's happened before and will probably continue to happen.

If you are the jeweler/store buyer you will already have determined exactly who you want to see.  You will (if you are doing your job) already have done your homework so that you will be somewhat ready.  The notion that potential customers will magically "discover" your brand is a foolish hope.  The highlight of the trip will most likely be a night out or shopping at the outlet mall.

To be very clear, the slow deterioration of the Las Vegas shows is endemic to the watch industry as a whole.  These shows still serve serve as a very valuable resource for jewelry.  But as for watches, it might be time for a different sort of show.

Roadrunners Internationale and Hager

This just in from Hager -

Courtesy of Hager

Hager Celebrates CIA A-12 Pilots In Las Vegas

Las Vegas, NV- October 07, 2015 American watchmaker Hager (Haːɡɐ) unveiled the newest edition of their Professional Series during an exclusive reception and private dinner with members of Roadrunners Internationale, Lockheed Martin and the CIA. The event, at the Stratosphere Hotel in Las Vegas, was a highlight of the recent Roadrunner Internationale reunion. The Roadrunners were an elite group of CIA, Air Force, and support personnel operating out what is officially known as Area 51. They were an integral part of our Cold War history and supported the U-2, A-12, YF-12, and SR-71 programs.

Hager CEO Pierre Brown and Christopher Becker of Dubois Depraz, presented the brand’s newest timepiece, the Skymaster A-12 Limited Roadrunner Edition Chronograph, to two of the CIA’s legendary A-12 Oxcart pilots and Roadrunner members, Colonel Ken Collins, (USAF, ret.) and Lieutenant Colonel Frank Murray, (USAF, ret.). The A-12 Oxcart was the successor to the U-2 spy plane and precursor to the SR-71 Blackbird. Built by Lockheed Martin, the Oxcart was owned and operated by the CIA and represents a pioneering achievement in aeronautical engineering. To this day it holds records for speed and altitude (Mach 3.29 at 90,000 feet) for an air-breathing piloted jet aircraft. 

Courtesy of Hager

This newest edition to Hager’s Professional Series features several design elements that distinguish it from other chronograph models currently on the market. The Skymaster is a bi-compax chronograph housed in a 44mm brushed and polished case, with beveled edges; a bi-directional 24-click luminous ceramic twelve- hour countdown bezel that can also be used as a GMT; a domed Anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal (inside only); and recessed pushers and a screw-in crown. The Skymaster is water resistant to 100m. 

Courtesy of Hager

The dial sports a tachymeter scale stadium ring with two subdials and Skeleton Superluminova®-filled hands and markers. The Skymaster contains a special chronograph movement manufactured by one of the most renowned independent watchmakers in Switzerland, Dubois Depraz, with 62 jewels, at 28,800 vph. The specially modified (for Hager Watches) DD Caliber 2016 displays a 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. The red, plane-like Tachymeter hand also serves as the running seconds hand. 

Courtesy of Hager

The bracelet buckle is equipped with a push-button fold-over clasp and a push-button sliding micro- adjustment button that allows one to adjust the bracelet to an exact fit, rather than to the closest link size.

Courtesy of Hager

For a unique touch the sapphire caseback is custom imprinted and features the unit’s unofficial patch and the name of the program, CYGNUS, after the constellation of Cygnus the Swan—an appropriate tribute to the Skymasters’ heritage and captivating design.

This limited edition timepiece (available in Stainless Steel or Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC), will only be available to members of the Roadrunners Internationale.

Courtesy of Hager

“We are proud to honor COL Collins and LTC Murray for their service to our great nation and we hope to support the Roadrunners in the future so they can continue to preserve the history and heritage of the U-2, A-12, YF-12, and SR-71 programs for others to enjoy.” 

Las Vegas Field Trip

So a work week spent in Las Vegas, but I managed to sneak out and visit Breguet, and

Tag Heuer.

And Tag Heuer- if you're listening, this guy is VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE!  This is the type of person you want working in your boutique!  Well done!

15 Days with Frederique Constant's Index Moonphase

I saw this one in person at the Las Vegas show - SWISS WATCH, and was very impressed.  The nice folks at Frederique Constant were nice enough to send one out to me for testing!  So, 15 Days with the Frederique Constant Index Moonphase starts now.

Courtesy of Frederique Constant



Strapping in the Airman

Straps - today it seems that there is either far too much, or far too little attention paid to the one item that ensures your watch will stay on your wrist. In some cases there is the belief that the strap must be crafted from a nearly extinct reptile, hand stitched by elves in a forbidden forrest... or that it must be so manly it would make arnold schwarzenegger blush.

Descriptons such as "lovingly hand crafted by artisans" to "tough enough to fight any battle" - ENOUGH!
How about a sane, rational and appropriate approach? Thank you Glycine!

A nice, branded (or embossed) logo on one of the strap loops, and a solid, funtional buckle bearing the Glycine name.

The strap also bears the name - AIRMAN. The finishing of the strap is first rate - the leather is smooth and flexible, not hard and tough. The white accent stitching is the perfect counter balance to the size of the strap. This is not an insubstantial strap with a 22mm lug width. But it is not big for big's sake. It is the right counter point to the proportions of the watch.

And most of all, it is a very comfortable strap to wear. The buckle is large enough to operate smoothly, but not so large that it over crowds the strap. Moreover, it is smooth and sits nice and flat along the underside of the wrist.

In all honesty, I was not sure how I'd feel about the strap when I first saw the Airman at BaselWorld, and later Las Vegas, but I must admit that I have grown very, very fond of it.

I've only got a few days left, and the next post promises to be illuminating!

Stay tuned!

Raymond Weil at SWISS Watch, Las Vegas

One of the most enjoyable visits at JCK was with the nice folks at Raymond Weil.  

I have never, EVER seen such a busy room!  Everybody seems to want these watches.

And the best thing about Raymond Weil, is that there's something for everyone.  For the men and for the ladies...rugged and sporty, classic and sophisticated - Raymond Weil seems to have it covered.

Quartz, and self-winding mechanicals!  And perhaps one of the nicest things about Raymond Weil - it's still a family affair, with three generations all pulling in the same direction.

There is more to come on Raymond Weil - so stay tuned!

A manufacture watch - Frederique Constant

It is hard not to be romantic about watches - I realize I am on theme here, but it's hard not to be romantic about it.

I had time to meet with the folks from Frederique Constant in Las Vegas.  Luxury is something that you don't necessarily need.  Luxury is not defined by the number of zeros on the price tag.  Luxury, at least when it is real, luxury represents something special, something that you can live without, but that you will be happier living with.  

A truly amazing cup of coffee in a world of Nescafe swill - that is a luxury.  A beautiful pair of Alden shoes in a world of Nikes - that is a luxury.  A watch company that has its own movement - one expressly designed and produced for its own watch lines - that is luxury.  But who ever said that it should cost 2 - 3 month's salary of a normal person?  We all want something better - don't we?  And it doesn't have to ask you to chose between funding your retirement, or having a beautiful timekeeper.  Does it?

Luxury is not always about the price tag, and I thank Frederique Constant for reminding me of this.  Luxury is having the time to read a book.  Luxury is being able to enjoy time with your family and friends.  

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

So here it is - direct from the source -

Frederique Constant has been developing and producing its in-house Manufacture Calibers since 2001.  The first caliber was the Heart Beat Manufacture, cal. FC-910 with its iconic aperture in the dial and main plate at 6 o'clock position.  Newer versions of the Heart Beat Manufacture included various complications, a silicium (silicon) escapement wheel, and even an in-house Tourbillon.

Development of the second base caliber by Frederique Constant started in 2008.  The design and development briefing for this second base caliber was very straight forward: redevelop all components and search to reduce cost of manufacturing with 30%, while at least maintaining the same high quality level of the Heart Beat Manufacture calibers.  As a result, the Maxime Manufacture (cal. FC-700) was born.  Frederique Constant realized significant economies of scale with this caliber.  In line with our Accessible Luxury philosophy, these cost-savings were transferred to the final consumer, by offering these Frederique Constant Manufacture timepieces at unbeatable retail prices.

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

This year, Frederique Constant is proud and excited to introduce the new Classics Manufacture, with a retail price starting at €1’750 in stainless steel.  Designed and produced with utmost care, the sophisticated dial shows a remarkable refinement.  Decoration of the movement is to the highest standards, with Cotes de Geneve and Collimacon patterns, brightly shining due to the rhodium finishing.  The new Classics Manufacture is based on the second generation of the Maxime movement, cal. FC-710 and features an added center seconds hand.  Apart from stainless steel, the Classics Manufacture is also available with a case finished in rose gold plating, at €1’950. A duo of stunningly beautiful timepieces!

History Frederique Constant Manufacture Calibers

In 2001, Frederique Constant launched the development of its first manufacture caliber in close collaboration with the École d'Horlogerie de Genève, the École d'Ingenieurs de Genève and the Horloge Vakschool Zadkine, Netherlands.  The Heart Beat Manufacture has the characteristic bridge for the balance wheel on the front side of the caliber, which made it possible to have the spiral and fine regulation on the front side as well, creating a much more appealing Heart Beat design. This construction was new - allowing Frederique Constant to obtain a patent.

In 2008, Frederique Constant introduced its first Tourbillon Manufacture movement with Silicium (Silicon) Escapement Wheel.  There are three main advantages compared to a regular escapement wheel:

       - No oiling necessary

       - Ultra smooth surface

       - Weight 1/5th of steel

As a result, the Frederique Constant Tourbillon has an amplitude of over 300 degrees in dial-up and dial-down positions.  Even in the crown-down position, the amplitude is over 275 degrees, which is substantially more than the performance of other high-end tourbillons.

In 2009, Frederique Constant launched a new in-house base caliber (FC-700).  Component rationalization and assembly efficiency were the top priorities for the development of this caliber. Result was an overall 30% cost saving compared with the earlier Heart Beat Manufacture caliber. Various new technologies were incorporated.  For the first time, a Swiss watch manufacturer introduced a watch with a manufacture caliber below €2’000 retail.

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

Frederique Constant Factory 

The Frederique Constant production facility in Geneva measures 3'200 square meters, divided over four floors, offering an attractive working environment in the sectors of caliber component production, caliber assembly, watch assembly, and extensive quality control.  Numerically controlled machines of the latest generation are located in a large atelier in the basement, where all component manufacturing is concentrated.  Caliber and watch assembly, as well as state-of-the-art quality control is primarily organized on the first floor of the Frederique Constant building.  The building also serves as the brand's international headquarters.

www.frederique-constant.com

A Dark Night in Las Vegas

This is the Dark Night from Girard Perregaux - and yes, I got to lay eyes on it in person - it is pretty swell!  And extremely limited - only 25 pieces, so no time-wasters!  And my understanding - it is just for the US market.


Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

For those of you "spec. nerds" out there, here are the details:

WW.TC DARK NIGHT


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Black ceramic case with rubber coated crowns and push-buttons

Diameter: 43 mm
Sapphire crystal
Tinted sapphire case-back secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03387
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 13’’’
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz)

Jewels: 63
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours

Functions: Hour, minute, small seconds, date, fly-back chronograph,
world time with day/night indicator

Rubber strap with safety folding buckle

Limited and numbered edition of 25 pieces only

www.girard-perregaux.com

Hanhart arrives in the US!

Thomas Morf, Anthony Siragusa, Tobias Bamert

Hanhart is here!  For all of you out there constantly asking - when will Hanhart be available in the US?  Well the wait is over!  Anthony Siragusa has been tapped to introduce the brand here.  A veteran of the watch industry with a proven track record, Hanhart is clearly in good hands.

I had a chance to catch up with Thomas Morf, Hanhart's Head of Sales Tobias Bamert, and Anthony this past weekend at the JCK SWISS Watch show.  A few truly great retail partners have already come on board, and an exciting Hanhart event is scheduled for the coming weeks - stay tuned!

www.hanhart.com

Las Vegas

In Las Vegas today/tomorrow - stand by for nearly live reporting!

Point of clarification for those of you who "wish you could be here" - the two main shows are divided by nearly 3 miles at opposite ends of the "strip".  You regular readers know that I prefer to walk, but with the temperature up above 100 degrees, I think walking will be at a minimum.

Stay tuned, should be a "newsy" day!

Breguet Brings Queen of Naples Exhibit to Las Vegas

Coming off the heels of a successful run in New York, Breguet continues its celebration of the 200^th anniversary of the invention of the wristwatch at its Las Vegas boutique. On the evening of Wednesday, May 23^rd, a cocktail reception hosted by Mr. Michael Nelson, Breguet U.S. brand president, celebrated the opening of the exhibit which will run until Sunday, June 3rd. The Breguet Boutique in Las Vegas opened in 2011 as the fifth boutique in the U.S.

The first wristwatch, that ubiquitous invention now found on almost every person’s wrist, was actually created for none other than a queen. In 1810, the Queen of Naples, Caroline Murat (sister of Napoleon Bonaparte), commissioned Abraham-Louis Breguet to create the first ever timepiece to fit around her wrist. In an era when timepieces were typically pocket watches and clocks, Breguet began work on yet another innovation destined for the history books. The historical piece was finally delivered in 1812 and the Queen of Naples’ commission would become watch N^o 2639.

The Breguet watch company is paying tribute to the Queen of Naples through an incomparable exhibition: “1810-1812 Breguet Makes the First Wristwatch, Fit for a Queen.” This exhibit was launched in Geneva, Switzerland andfollowing its undeniable success, Breguet is taking this exhibit on a world tour.

Courtesy Breguet & Getty Images

Archives have made it possible to retrace this historical retrospective of the unprecedented creation of this unique wristwatch. According to historical documents, Breguet created a thin oblong repeater watch with a silver dial and Arabic numerals, mounted on a wristlet of hair woven with gold threads. The final product was delivered on December 21, 1812 and is last known to be in the possession of the Queen’s daughter Louise in 1849. Interpreting the specifications from the archives, the Breguet watch brand recreated this historic timepiece in its line of ladies watches, appropriately named “Reine de Naples,”

The House of Breguet is also taking the opportunity to commemorate the 10^th anniversary of its Reine de Naplesflagship ladies collection. The Reine de Naples collection is unmistakably a true work of art epitomising an ideal blend of aesthetic elegance and technical virtuosity.

Courtesy of Breguet & Getty Images

The exhibit, representing an authentic ode to femininity, is further enriched by a selection of exceptional Haute Joaillerie creations and Breguet once again proves that beauty and innovation are the keynotes of all its creations.

As a grand finale, a world-scale event in honour of the 200^th anniversary of the first wristwatch ordered by Caroline Murat is scheduled for September 2012 at Capri, the famous seaside resort in the Gulf of Naples.

Courtesy of Breguet & Getty Images

The Romantics - Frank Geelen

It can happen.  You do the same thing, day in and day out... things lose their sparkle.  It is easy to lose perspective.  The current "Jedi Master" of watch bloggers, Frank Geelen, summed it up pretty well (and this is not an exact quote), but that in essence he was just doing something he loved to do.

I am really thankful that there are people like Frank out there, putting in the time, the effort and the passion every day.  As I have been getting ready to head out to the desert lights for the two Las Vegas shows, I took the time to reflect on the past few years.  It has been great to see the success that Frank has had, and the appreciation that both the industry and the readers/fans have for his work.  The industry, both inside and out, needs the romantics.  It needs people like Frank.

Check out Frank's work at Monochrome -

http://www.monochrome.nl/