Thursday, May 29, 2025

The BR-03 Diver Lum Outline

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest diver from Bell & Ross. The case is ceramic and measures 42 mm. The movement is listed as Calibre BR-CAL.302-1, which I believe is based on Sellita's SW300-1 per the folks at Caliber Corner.

This is limited to 500 pieces, and is priced at $5,200.

Thursday, May 22, 2025

And Then This Happened... SB05 SunflOwer

So I find myself, once gain, at the back of the Conga Line -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard / Studio Underdog

This past April, my old friend Armand Billard (Patron Saint of the Oberlin Watch Company) in collaboration with Studio Underdog came out with this wrist-rocket! 

This is the SB05 Sunfl0wer, and yes, I am a bit obsessed!

There are people you meet who change the course of your trajectory - and I can absolutely say without fear of contradiction that meeting and working (albeit briefly) changed my life as a "behind the scenes" presence in Watch Town. So much so that people do a double take and assume that I'm "name dropping" to impress them ; )

So we are now at the latest chapter - at least the latest that I am writing about. This is the fantastic mash-up between two emerging forces in watches. And what is so fantastic about this watch is that it clearly champions the ethos of both of the participants.

As far as I know, this one sold out before the main production even started - I await correction from Armand if I got that part wrong ; )

But for those of us who missed the boat, I would rather light a candle than curse our darkness, so here are the pertinents so that we can collectively live vicariously through the lucky 10 future owners -


Dial

Golden outer section Grand-grain guilloche.

Brown Grand-grain guilloche pattern center disk.

Brown Grand-grain guilloche pattern small seconds sub-dial.

Sapphire disk with pad printed delicate golden hour markers and black
minute track.

Sartory-Billard reference : SB05SUN


Movement

La Joux Perret ref 7380Winding Mechanism: Manual
Finishing: Dark metallic grey color (NAC)
Diameter: 30.00 mm
Height: 2.90 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz
21 jewels
Power reserve: 90 hours

Case & Strap

Material: 316L steel
Finishing: Polished, Brushed and Micro-blasted
Diameter: 38.50 mm
Height: 8.50 mm
Lug to lug: 45.50 mm
Water resistant: 50 m
Strap: 20mm Curved handmade Epsom Calfskin strap made by The Strap Tailor

Sunday, May 18, 2025

In Memoriam - Angelo Bonati

 

Courtesy of Italia Living

Word reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time that former Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati has passed away.

In an industry where more often than not you are either born into leadership (Chopard, LVMH, Patek), or you land in a comfy place - think Mr. Dufour of Rolex, very few people could have taken what a brand considered something of an anomaly, and make it the object of intense desire. But that is just what Panerai became under Angelo Bonati.

There are unicorns out there, to be sure, but as we roll past the first quarter of this century, they are becoming much thinner on the ground. It's easy for people to forget how different things were in 2000. A 44 mm case was anathema. Today it is "average". Watch fans will recall the ill-fated Anonimo which is still bobbing about in the flotsam of Watch Town's harbor. Proof positive that without the vision, investment, and consistency, a brand will become an afterthought. 

Back in 2003 when I broke in with Tourneau in their original San Francisco store, we were not authorized to sell Panerai (new Panerai, that is), but we did a brisk trade in pre-owned Panerai. So brisk that a Panerai would go in the showcase and likely be sold before the close of business. That, in fact, was how I got mine. A "B" series Luminor. The rule for employees buying a pre-owned watch was that it had to stay in the case for at least one full day before you could purchase it. And you had to pay full price, no employee discount! So I waited, and once the doors were closed? I pounced! And to say I loved that watch is an understatement. I still miss it to this day. But that is a story for another day.

But that is the manic obsession that Panerai created, and continues to evoke to this day. And it couldn't have happened without Mr. Bonati.

Go easy, sir.

Saturday, May 17, 2025

The New Vektor Portal

From Defakto -

Courtesy of Defakto

Here are the details, straight from Defakto -

The new and limited 38,5mm Defakto Vektor Portal (10 pieces) comes with black in-house made pvd case and Japan made, automatic movement Miyota 9015. The watch offers a very flat st.steel case with only 6.6mm - incl. the acrylic dome it has a total of only 9,8mm!

DEFAKTO VEKTOR PORTAL

38,5 mm x 44 mm x 9,8 mm, weight 35,6g
In-house made ICKLER case, Pforzheim, Made in Germany

Automatic Movement Miyota 9015, Japan Made

Domed dial and acrylic crystal, curved hands

German made cowhide strap with fast release system.

3 ATM water resistant

785,00 € 
incl. VAT EU-Citizens
659,66 €  
excl. VAT Non-EU-Citizens

Limited to 10 pieces



Wednesday, May 14, 2025

For You Cycling Fans Out There From Breitling





Breitling continues to have a press distribution system that continues to baffle me. Try though I might, I have yet to get added to it over the past 15 years. Now in fairness, I have been guilty (as has a lot of members of the Fourth and Fifth Estates) of not fawning over the "Squad" concept, and questioning the sanity of what appeared to be a lease program that did not guarantee that you would end up with the watch you really wanted. But let's focus on more positive things...

But with all that in the rearview mirror, I did some digging on my own when I remembered that it was Giro time again, and that Breitling had released two interesting variations of their Top Time series to honor to Italian cycling legends - Gino Bartali and Fausto Coppi.
And whether they intended to or not, the two represent sharp contrasts. 

Coppi was dashing, glamorous, rode for Bianchi in its "Celeste" livery (note to the Breitling PR team - CELESTE, not turquoise!), left his wife for la dama in bianco di Fausto Coppi, ran afoul of the Pope himself, and died of malaria after an ill-fated visit to Burkina Faso to race locals and then go hunting. I supose the irony being that one of the mighty hunters were felled by a small flying insect.

Where Coppi was a matinee idol straight from central casting, Gino Bartali was quite the other thing. As it is a pretty involved recounting, I will let the Wikipedia entry tell the tale -

Rescues and Resistance role during World War II

[edit]
Bartali used bicycle training as a cover for secret efforts to rescue Jews.

Bartali earned respect for his work in helping Jews who were being persecuted by the Nazis during the time of the Italian Social Republic. He appears as a character in the 1978 novel, The Assisi Underground: The Priest who Rescued Jews, and in the 1985 American television film adaptation, both based on the real-life account by Father Rufino Niccacci.

It emerged in December 2010 that Bartali had hidden a Jewish family in his cellar and, according to one of the survivors, saved their lives in doing so.[17]

Bartali used his fame to carry messages and documents to the Italian Resistance.[18][19] Bartali cycled from Florence through Tuscany, Umbria, and Marche, many times traveling as far afield as Assisi, all the while wearing the racing jersey emblazoned with his name. Neither the Fascist police nor the German troops risked discontent by arresting him.

Giorgio Nissim, a Jewish accountant from Pisa,[18] was a member of DELASEM,[20] founded by the Union of the Israelitic Communities to help Jewish Italians escape persecution. The network in Tuscany was discovered in autumn 1943 and all Jewish members except Nissim sent to concentration camps. With the help of the Archbishops of Genoa Pietro Boetto and Florence Elia Dalla Costa, the Franciscan Friars of Assisi and others, Nissim reorganized DELASEM in Tuscany and helped 800 survive.

Nissim died in 2000. His sons found from his diaries that Bartali had used his fame to help. Nissim and the Oblati Friars of Lucca forged documents and needed photographs of those they were helping. Bartali used to leave Florence in the morning, pretending to train, ride to Assisi where many Jews were hiding in the Franciscan convents, collect their photographs and ride back to Nissim.[5][21][22] At Assisi Bartali was in direct contact with Rufino Niccacci.[23] Bartali also used his position to learn about raids on safehouses.

Bartali was eventually taken to Villa Triste in Florence. The SD and the Italian RSS official Mario Carità questioned Bartali, threatening his life.[22] In spite of any threats, Bartali did not reveal what he had done. Even after the war he never boasted his merits; he used to say: "Some medals are made to hang on the soul, not the jacket."[24]

Bartali continued working with the Assisi Network. In 1943, he led Jewish refugees towards the Swiss Alps himself. He cycled, pulling a wagon with a secret compartment, telling patrols it was just part of his training. Bartali told his son Andrea only that "One does these things and then that's that".[22]

In June 2012, a book about Bartali's wartime activities, Road To Valor by Aili and Andres McConnon, was published.[25]

In 2013, Yad Vashem awarded Gino Bartali the honour Righteous Among the Nations.[26] He is a central figure in the 2014 documentary My Italian Secret: The Forgotten Heroes.[5] In 2007, the script for a movie based on Bartali during World War II, called Lion Man of Tuscany was on the Black List, a survey of the "most liked" un-produced scripts in Hollywood.[27]

In 2017, research by Michele Sarfatti questioned Bartali's efforts to save Jewish lives, referring to the very limited sources and contradicting that Bartali would have described this in his diaries.[28] In 2021, Marco and Stefano Pivato corroborated this stance by Sarfatti, calling the whole story 'invented' ('una storia inventata').[29][30] In 2021, an interview with Sergio Della Pergola, an Israeli-Italian academic who was involved in Yad Vashem’s investigation of Bartali’s role during the war, was published in the Corriere della Sera. Outlining some of the evidence regarding Bartali’s efforts during the war, he disagreed with the argument put forth by Sarfatti and Marco and Stefano Pivato. He was quoted as saying: “To question whether Gino Bartali risked his life to save Jews is like denying that the Earth is round.”[31]

At any rate, two legends of cycling, two tributes from Breitling -

                            For Fausto Coppi

Courtesy of Breitling



For Gino Bartali






Wednesday, May 7, 2025

The New and Improved Dialog

From DEFAKTO -

Courtesy of DEFAKTO

This latest version of the Dialog offers an affordable entry point to the DEFAKTO brand.
The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter. The movement is Ronda's Swiss made 712 Quartz.

Attractively priced at:

345,00 EUR (incl. VAT) // EU Citizens
289,92 EUR (excl. VAT) // Non-EU Citizens




Sunday, May 4, 2025

Bern to La Chaux-de-Fonds to Zurich and Home

So Bern. I have been through Bern once or twice via train connections, and driven by my friend Rod Hess. With that being said, I was clearly missing out. I had about two hours after breakfast to take in the sights -









There is clearly a lot more to be seen, so next year this is definitely slated for a full day's stay.

And then I got a reminder about just exactly how large and (I gotta' be honest) not consistently logically laid-out a train station Bern is. If you've never started a journey in an SBB station without a ticket (and you do not have a pay account tied to your SBB app) you must do a few things before you get in the carriage:
  • Identify the ticket machine - curious to relate? It is not always where you expect it to be.
  • Make sure your payment method is going to work. 
  • Make sure you have sufficient Swiss Francs and (if necessary) Euro to make your purchase (see above).
  • Clearly understand just how far the platform is from the main hub.
So let's examine that last bullet item in a bit more detail. Ordinarily, it is a fairly brief walk from the central hub to any given platform. The one previous experience I've had is the walk "across the border" when arriving into Basel via Mulhouse (France). With that said, I was not prepared for the (literally) 1 + kilometer walk I had to make - and that is FROM the tunnel marked "Biel/Bienne"!

Long story short? I had to sprint at the end to make the train, and truly just made it!

With that said, it was a beautiful day and the ride to Biel/Bienne was smooth, with a quick transfer to La Chaux-de-Fonds -


And a return to visit my friend Kornelia Imesch at ochs und junior -


And I got to check out the settimana junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

And in an odd sort of way? This was really coming full-circle for me. Back in 2010 I had walked away from DOXA, realizing that it had become a bit of a dead-end, and I was not going to advance or go any further. I had started writing Tempus Fugit (which is today known as Henki Time), and I stumbled upon ochs und junior via a magazine article that had been forwarded to me. I then connected with Beat Weinmann and got a behind the scenes look at the nascent brand. Fast forward nearly 10 years to the day later, and I was back behind the scenes and got to know the owner Kornelia, the inspiration for the settimana junior - Flori, and got to see how things were moving forward since ochs und junior moved to La Chaux-de-Fonds. So really oj does bookend my start in consulting and media and as I said, it feels as if I've come full circle ; )

After a lovely lunch and a walk around the neighborhood, I was off to Zurich -




I got checked in, found dinner at my favorite Chinese take-out in the old town, got a good night's sleep. The next morning I availed myself of the Ruby Mimi's breakfast - highly recommended by the way, and struck out for a personal errand...a visit to Jenni Uhren, the work address of one Marc Jenni (among others).

After a few wrong turns and a short stroll along a river / canal, I found myself in the right place. I had my eye on two different pieces -


This particualr one I quite like - it's quirky and definitely "of an era", not unlike yours truly ; )

But I had also been admiring this little time machine -


And that is what I ended up with.


And a few words about Marc. The watch business can be a cynical world. As a member of the press, you all too often realize that your relationships with brands and watchmakers can be transactional. I sometimes call them "Weather Vane" friendships, meaning that whether or not some folks have time for you depends upon which way the wind is blowing ; )

But Marc Jenni is something altogether different. I will never forget getting a much coveted invitation to the AHCI dinner during BaselWorld several years back. I have never considered myself an "A List" level invitee, so I reached out to Marc and asked if there had possibly been a mistake, did they really mean to invite me. Marc immediately responded saying that I was absolutely meant to be invited, and that he looked forward to seeing me there! And he could not have been more inviting, more friendly, and more engaging. And I can honestly say after several years of knowing him that he is exactly that nice! For those of you have have the opportunity, he is a friend well met.


Then back to the hotel, packed everything up (including watches this time and double checked), and headed to the station -


And off to the airport, and some "self-care" which my friend Armand Billard reminds me is important not to neglect ; )



As I write this, it is Sunday morning, nearly one month since I got back. A lot has happened. A family member has been diagnosed with a serious medical condition, my job will likely be over by the end of June owing to the political machinations endemic to the city of Lawrence, and in many ways while it feels like the end of some things, it also seems like the start of yet another series of wonderful opportunities, and I am reminded once again that true friendship is something that endures.

Life is fickle and short, embrace it.

Tempus Fugit -

Friday, May 2, 2025

The 417 ES Heritage Flyback

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

This is the latest from Hanhart. In one fell swoop the folks at Hanhart have created a singular watch that typifies the arc of Hanhart - past, present, and future!


Courtesy of Hanhart

Available in two sizes, 39 and 42 mm.


Here are the pertinents -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
39 mm
Diameter 39 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm (11.55 mm without glass)
Lug to Lug: 46 mm


DIMENSIONS
42 mm
Diameter 42 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm (11.55 mm without glass)
Lug to Lug: 49.75 mm

MATERIAL
Stainless steel, satin/polished

BEZEL
Fluted bezel, bidirectional, continuously rotatable with red insert
Red pusher made of HyCeram®

GLASS
Convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal
High-domed spherical glass (like the historical model)

CASE BACK
Screwed case back
Engraved, consecutive serial number
Anti-magnetic housing base

WATER RESISTANCE
Water-resistant up to 10 bar/10 ATM in accordance with DIN 8310
Shockproof/shock-protected with Hanhart movement damping as additional shock protection


MOVEMENT

CALIBER
Switch wheel chronograph with flyback manual winding
Sellita AMT5100 M
Symmetrical pusher spacing
28,800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels

POWER RESERVE
58 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Central stop second
Hacking seconds


DIAL

Black
Historical logo

NUMBERS
Historical font
Super-LumiNova® X2 C3 coated

HANDS
Super-LumiNova® X2 C3 coated
Minute hand and second hand bent at the end to avoid parallax errors


STRAP

Cowhide
Lug width 21 mm

COLORS
Black, dark brown or light brown

BUCKLE
Pin buckle with historical logo