Just Because You Can, Doesn't Mean You Should...

With the announcement of the new and future CEO of Audemars Piguet, the brain trust in Le Brassus decided that it was the ideal time to drop another Marvel Universe flight of fancy. This one bearing the likeness of erstwhile high school student / Daily Bugle photographer Spider-Man.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

So I find myself conflicted. On the one hand, I am super-excited to see what path Audemars Piguet will take with a new CEO. On the other hand, I am less-than-impressed by the grab for the easy lay-up. 

I like to think, that at heart, I am neither elitist, or even a snob when it comes to watches. With that being said, a brand that will endure must stand for something beyond instant gratification. And truth be told, the Marvel Universe partnership is not a long-term strategy. 

Audemars Piguet will be finding itself at a crossroads in the coming months. Things are good at the moment, but for better or worse, AP is going to need a bit more than the Royal Oak to continue to grow. After all, the company is AP, not RO.

Logan's Run - The WatchTown Edition

I will be very honest. I visit Monochrome, Fratello, Watch Pro, and yes even Hodinkee pretty much every day. And while it used to be to follow what my friends and colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates of Watch Town were up to, lately more and more it's to read the tea leaves. And it has been interesting to see the shift of content and volume coming from Hodinkee. But more interesting is what appears to be a game of musical chairs.

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

There is no denying that there was a steady departure of long-time (at least by blog/webzine standards) writers over the past year or so.  Cara Barrett, Jack Forster, Jon Bues, Cole Pennington, Jason Heaton, and Logan Baker. But the departures continued with Nick Marino also disappearing from the masthead. Of the new/newer crew Sarah Miller and Nora Taylor no longer appear on the masthead. Style Editor Malaika Crawford is now (at least insofar as the masthead goes) the only female writer.

In fairness, change is inevitable. But from a mighty staff of dozens, only 5 or 6 writers (editors) currently grace the masthead as of this post.

In the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit, I commented more than regularly on what has grown into cartel of media outlets. I still stand by that assessment. More often than not, I will read about a new release in one of the big outlets and receive the "B Team" press release later that day from the brand. But here's hoping that the watch media cartel made up of those big dogs will give way to more of a meritocracy. There is a lot of good writing on watches out there, hopefully brands with marketing and advertising budgets will start to support it, even if the title does not begin with an H, like that other shameless cartel member, Henki Time ; )

Nobody Saw This One Coming...

The newly appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet is Ilaria Resta -

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

While all of the "Man-Children" are moaning and groaning on forums and semi-anonymously posting misogynistic quips from the comfort of their man-caves on other blogs and online outlets, I thought I might first say bravo Audemars Piguet for taking a different solution, by not only hiring a woman as CEO of one of the big brands but bringing in someone from outside of Watch Town.

And although (if the commentary online is anything to go by) I might be in the minority here, I think that the pros of hiring an outsider far outweigh the cons.

PROS:

• Fresh Eyes - Ms. Resta is not bringing a lot of baggage from Watch Town with her. All too often someone comes in from another brand with a grudge, or a point to prove. The results, inevitably, are poor. 
• Ego Check - Unlike pretty much every new big boss in Watch Town, she will hopefully not feel the need talk about her bona-fides on a daily basis.
• No Sacred Cows - Ms. Resta will have the objectivity to look clearly and plainly at the business of Audemars Piguet. 
• Reality Check - I sincerely doubt there will be another potential HR / PR fiasco like the hare brained commando training that years later remains hard to believe it really happened, let alone anyone with any common sense allowed it to happen.

So I am hopeful that this will lead to a reexamination of how watch brands can (and should) be managed. Time will tell.

But I would be remiss if I did not point out what I feel is a bigger concern, and that is the lack of leadership shown by the current CEO in working to identify and develop a potential successor. Sorry if that sounds harsh, but while Mr. B was never one to hide his light under a bushel, it was often presented as if he was Audemars Piguet. And some of that failure belongs with the board of AP as well. AP is a family brand, and owing to that simple truth, they should have invested more into internal development within their brand, and should have made that a priority for their CEO. 

Ultimately, a brand is not just the watch (despite the killing off of nearly everything, save the Royal Oak). It is not just the sponsor partners. It is the people who work for and with it. Audemars Piguet could have - and should have done better with this.

With all that said, we wish Ms. Resta God's Speed and smooth sailing as she takes the helm. And I have a feeling that her lack of Watch Town bias, and her fresh eyes will further reinvigorate Audemars Piguet.

 

Omitted History

Courtesy of DOXA

With DOXA's recent launch of the SUB 300T Clive Cussler, I was once again reminded of the short memory of the watch buying public (no offense), and the reality that well placed (i.e. funded) press campaigns can go a long way to paint vivid and compelling stories that while not not false, often leave out some key details. 

Courtesy of Bernard Watches

While it is wonderful that the Jenny family is putting some money and effort into the DOXA SUB collection, I continue to be fascinated by the painting out of Rick Marei's efforts to relaunch and promote the DOXA SUB. Well, gentle reader, as I was there for a lot of this let me try to set the record straight, or at least shed some light on a topic that lived in the shade far too long.

It was Rick Marei who went to the Jenny family and secured the rights to design, produce, and sell the DOXA SUB through what would become the reimagined Synchron group. While it is convenient to paint out his contributions, it is an inconvenient truth that without Rick Marei, the SUB would have remained dead and burried.

I also find it fascinating to see this new partnership with the Cussler estate. As the person responsible for promoting and marketing the SUB from 2007 - 2010, it would have been greatly helpful not to have to try and do it for $0 marketing funds ; )

But we were lucky, because Clive Cussler was always amenable to help us (Synchron). He was a subtle, but genuine ambassador for the SUB. Beyond the invaluable publicity received by DOXA via Clive Cussler's novels, it was Rick Marei (and those of us who worked with him at Synchron) who endeavored to form and maintain a friendly (but definitely grass-roots and under funded) partnership with Clive Cussler. There was a Clive Cussler edition of the 750 SUB back in the earlier part of this century. This had no noticeable branding beyond a not-so-prominent bit of extra engraving on the case back, and if memory serves it was a basic flourish added to an existing production piece to help goose along some sales. I do not know whether or not Mr. Cussler received anything beyond a watch (i.e. royalties). 

There was, of course, a Dirk Pitt model based on the 600T. There was the NUMA -

Courtesy of Worn and Wound

Which came in a few flavors. Blue (above) and a turquoise dialed version (below) -

Courtesy of Worn and Wound

And I vividly remember a rather undignified bullocking I received at BaselWorld 2009 from Rick Marei over his refusal to use turquoise for any other DOXA SUB as turquoise was spoken for (although he refused to say for whom it was reserved). If nothing else, while not demonstrating any real managerial brio, it did underscore his commitment to all things Clive Cussler. 

I continue to find it fascinating how nearly 20 years of history can magically vanish. It is true that the "winners" write the history, and that's fair enough. But at the same time, I believe in giving credit where it is due, even if it reveals a sin of omission.

The BR 03-92 PATROUILLE DE FRANCE 70TH ANNIVERSARY

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

For the past three years, Bell & Ross has partnered with the Patrouille de France -

“Since 2021, the French Air and Space Force and Bell & Ross have forged a partnership of trust built around the Patrouille de France brand and strong common values. 

Self-transcendence, constant innovation, rigour, precision and a spirit of cohesion bring life to the teams of the ‘Grande Dame’ and those of Bell & Ross on a daily basis. And what’s more, it is the demand for excellence and the desire to raise the prestige of French wings to the highest level that brings us together and gives meaning to our association. The French Air and Space Force is proud to celebrate alongside Bell & Ross the 70TH anniversary of the Patrouille de France with this latest watchmaking achievement, the fruit of our shared passion”, says Colonel Malard, Director of SIRPA Air and Space.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

In recognition of the PatrouIlle de France's 70TH anniversary, Bell & Ross is offering this special version of their BR 03-92, which is limited to 999 pieces.

Here are the pertinents -

BR0392-PAF7-CE/SCA

Movement: BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 42 mm wide. 10.40 mm thick. Micro blasted black ceramic

Dial: blue. Patrouille de France logo at 9 o’clock. 70th anniversary logo at 3 o’clock. White transfer numerals and indices coated in Super-LumiNova®. Hands coated in Super-LumiNova®.

Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 100 meters.

Strap: blue calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric.

Buckle: pin. Steel with matte black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) micro blasted finish.

Price: $4,100

The OW 8001

From Ollech & Wajs -

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

EDITOR'S NOTE - James Henderson (owner of Henki Time) is the North American representative for Ollech & Wajs. This post contains no opinion or endorsement, only the specifications and the price.

Here are the specs:

Reference
OW 8001

Dimensions
39.56 mm X 12.5 mm

Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel tonneau style, screwed bottom, screwed crown, fixed steel bezel; made in the Swiss Jura

Bezel
Fixed bezel with a combination of numeric and round markers in Super-LumiNova® at 5-minute intervals

Crystal
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment

Dial
Double-lacquered ‘Havana fumé’ dial; baton hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®, with date window at 6 o’clock

Water resistance
300m/ 30atm

Movement
Automatic, COSC-certified, bespoke Soprod Newton Precision P092; date-only calendar, with semi instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown; stop seconds; 4Hz 28,800 vibrations per hour; 23 jewels; 44-hour power reserve. The Soprod Newton P092 movement is also independently tested for dependability and durability at the internationally renowned Laboratoire Dubois in Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and has additionally been awarded a Chronofiable® certification.

Average Accuracy
+/-7 seconds per day, adjusted in five positions (equivalent of ETA Elaborate)

Bracelet
Integrated brushed oyster-style bracelet, engineered for comfort and stability and extreme durability. The bracelet is finished with sturdy milled, engraved clasp, extendable up to 22 mm, and a double pusher release system for extra security against accidental opening.

Origin
Over 90% Swiss Made

The OW 8001 is a pre-order item and is priced at CHF 1856.00

Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sport Volume 3

With two of the new Rowing Blazers drop already sold out, this might be old news for many of you. But as someone with five (soon to be six or maybe even seven) Rowing Blazers blazers in my regular rotation, it's safe to say I am a fan. 

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

Rather than go into a needless bit of hyperbole, I thought I'd let the watches do the talking. But with that said, I was feeling a bit reflective last night on the drive home and was listening to the pod cast I did with Rowing Blazer's founder Jack Carlson nearly four years ago. And it really made me smile, to think how far this brand has come in such a short span of time.  The podcast is here -

https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/james-henderson3/episodes/Pod-Special---Dr--Jack-Carlson-of-Rowing-Blazers-e452lp

And the remainder of this latest drop  -

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

Based on a Seiko 5 Sport, it is available in four different color ways. The purple (above), pink, yellow, and white (all below).

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

Courtesy of Rowing Blazers

Here are the pertinents -

40mm diameter. Caliber 4R36 with manual and automatic winding capabilities. 24 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Approximately 41 hours of power reserve. Luminous hands and markers. Stainless steel cases and bracelets. Bilingual day and date calendars (English and Japanese). Edition of 888 per design. Made in Japan.

Available for $495, direct from Rowing Blazers.

The Nero Aurelia

From Gorilla Watch Company -

Courtesy of Gorilla Watch Company

This is the latest addition to Gorilla's Fastback stable, the Nero Aurelia. This is one of two new models recently announced.

Courtesy of Gorilla Watch Company

This is a limited edition of 500 pieces, and shipping is projected for December.

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBRE
Miyota 9039, premium finish, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS
Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL
DLC coated 316L stainless steel, screw-down crown, applied crown guards

CASEBACK
Open case back, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL
Matte finish, applied indexes filled with Super-Luminova™, radial brushed flange, hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL
Scratch resistant sapphire,
anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP
Perforated Alcantara™ & FKM rubber hybrid

BUCKLE
Stainless steel pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS
39 mm case diameter
43.1 mm with crown guards
10.5 mm case thickness
50 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE
100M/330FT/10ATM

Two Years On - Revisiting My opinion is Fact with the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament "Henki Time"

Keeping the Faith

After a year long winter that seems to have lasted a decade, we are slowly seeing a potential new spring cautiously peeking around the next corner, but for many it could still be a few months off. COVID has pretty much kicked the snot out of all of us.

The big dogs who were able to keep moving and (as far as I know) also managed to keep the majority of their teams employed are to be commended for their resilience. 

But what has been most impressive (to me) has been not merely the resilience, but the blossoming of a handful of small, and I'm going to use one of my most hated words here - artisanal brands. 

And this is now one of those times when my writing and watches that I personally own converge, this is now a: 

"Why I Bought It/My Opinion As Fact" piece -

Now I can only go by what I see on wrists of some of my erstwhile colleagues from the Fourth and Fifth Estate at BaselWorld (and again, it's been a minute), but I think it is safe to say that I tend to worship at a different church than most of them.

You may have noticed those large banner ads and "sponsored posts" here at Tempus Fugit... oh yeah! That's right, this is a self-funded venture! So to that end, I tend to spend my dollars pretty selectively. More to the point, true confession - I don't tend to buy watches other than the occasional Swatch these days. Don't get me wrong, I have a weakness for sneakers and fountain pens. But when it comes to watches I have gotten to a point where I truly am not all that interested in getting anything new, with a few possible exceptions. More to the point, I have sold or simply given away just about my entire personal collection. So it takes something special to get my attention.

Enter the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament "Henkitime" -

I have known Michiel Holthinrichs for a little while. He was a founding member of Roderich Hess's Wine and Time event at BaselWorld, and is a HYPE2019 alumnus. And it was during Basel 2019 that I became, well, somewhat obsessed with the idea of getting a Raw Ornament for myself. A plan was hatched - slow, steady monthly payments to the Holthinrich's account were even more slowly accumulated, a final version was agreed upon, and last week my erstwhile obsession became a wrist bound reality -

Now to understand why the Raw Ornament is the Shit That Killed Elvis (remember, this is my opinion as fact), it's important to understand "What Makes Henki Run". I have spent the better part of two decades living and working in Watch Town. While there are many beautiful watches made by exciting brands, I tend to gravitate away from the obvious.

I once went to a job interview where the second question asked was - 

"What is your favorite ice cream flavor?"  

For the record, it's pistachio. 

And if I think about so much of what is out there, on offer from the mighty to the small is either vanilla or chocolate. Or in some instances, a runny sicky-sweet version of rocky road. Or put another way, shock for shock value.

But what is special about what the folks at Holthinrichs are doing is borne out in the resulting watches. Watches are made one by one, and with the exception of the 3D printing machine, everything else is done by hand. Yes, they could simply send the case design to a case maker and simply bang out a bunch of them all at once. It would be faster and certainly cheaper, but that is not the watch that Michiel Holthinrichs and his team are interested in making. 

And odd though it sounds, you can feel that dedication when you put it on your wrist. Not just see it, but feel it.

There are plenty of nice watches out there. And I can't and won't attempt to speak for anyone but myself. But with so much choice out there, when you plump for something special, it ought to really be something special. The Raw Ornament is special (even without the custom "Henki" iconography). And the best thing about what Team Holthinrichs is doing? Yes they are making watches, but it is much more than that. A Holthinrichs watch is made with passion and integrity, and while it would have been easy to copy someone else's designs, they have stayed true to their vision. And as I said before, you don't just see it.  You feel it. And in all honesty?  That's why you should want it.

The Transfer Window Opens...

At Bremont -

Courtesy of Bremont

News reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time today (albeit via nontraditional channels) that Bremont, the brand that takes as much pains to establish their English bona-fides as Madonna pre Guy Ritchie split (I believe a commemorative coin of the Royal Coronation is included with the purchase of any new Bremont, but don't quote me on that) have announced their new CEO, semi-fresh off of a brief stint at the rehydrated HYT - Davide Cerrato.

And gentle readers, I feel it safe to say that this one was a wee bit of a head-scratcher. Here is what Bremont put out on its Facebook account:

We are delighted to announce that today, Bremont has appointed industry veteran Davide Cerrato as CEO and a member of the Board.
Bolstering Bremont’s in-house capabilities, Cerrato brings with him extensive experience in branding, product design and development, supply-chain management, and production. Cerrato has a proven track record, having worked with some of the most notable brands in the watch industry including Tudor, Montblanc and Panerai.

“I am incredibly excited to be joining Bremont. I have long admired what Nick and Giles have managed to achieve in a relatively short space of time. The brand has been on an amazing journey and I’m looking forward to working with the entire team to take it to the next level.” - Davide Cerrato.

And this all sounds quite lovely! But in fairness, there is more than a bit to unpack from this Gladstone bag. For most of us who write about this stuff, we did not come across Mr. Cerrato until the launch of the Tudor Black Bay about 10 years ago. And while the Black Bay was a big hit, it also has served to underscore the importance of thinking beyond the next year. I personally own a Black Bay x Rowing Blazers, but I also know from the number of Black Bay watches rolling in and out of pre-owned shops that this was a bit of a one-trick pony that while not having jumped the shark, has probably overplayed its hand. 

A move to Montblanc. And then rebirth at HYT of all places where, if we are being honest, was likely not an entirely satisfactory engagement for all involved.

With what London School of Economics trained economists would refer to as a "shit-ton" of cash, Bremont is set to do some big things. So we wish Mr. Cerrato God's Speed.