The U2 Dragon Lady

From Hager -

Courtesy of Hager

Now as previously mentioned, I am somewhat pre-disposed to liking Hager.  I am friends with the owner, and I wear and enjoy several pieces of the Hager collection.  In many ways you could say that I am an unofficial, accidental ambassador.  But owing to that, this is not a review or "unbiased" bit of feedback.  To be clear, I am VERY biased!

I have been wearing and enjoying the U2 Dragon Lady since BaselWorld when I was hanging out with Mr. Hager Watch Company himself (he's the good-looking guy on the right).  So again, let's be clear, I AM BIASED ; )

So this will be a "just the facts" announcement, with two little, very biased opinions at the end.

Courtesy of Hager

Here are the pertinents, direct from Hager -

Movement

Caliber: Seiko VK64 Hybrid Chronograph movement that combines technologies found in quartz and mechanical movements.

Functions: Quick correction of day and date, hours, minutes and Tachymeter hand that doubles as a second hand, date display at 6 o’clock. Chronograph: 60-min timer at 9 o’clock, 24-hour counter at 6 o'clock.

Total Diameter: 13.5 linge (30.80mm x 29.10mm)

Height: 5.10mm

Accuracy: +/-1 second a day, less than +/- 20 seconds per month at normal temps. Requires watch cell 394 (SR936SW). The battery life is about 3 years with normal operation.

Technical Data

Material: 316L Marine grade stainless steel

Diameter: 41mm

Height: 16mm to top of the crystal

Length: 51mm lug to lug

Lug Width: 22mm

Finish: Brushed with polished sides and beveled edges

Water Resistance: 200m/660ft

Case Back: Solid steel screwed

Crystal: Domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment

Dial: Black dial with faceted hour markers

Bezel: Tachometer scale engraved on the metal bezel to enhance the legibility of the dial

Hands: luminance baton hour hands and tachymeter aircraft shaped hand

Crown: Recessed screw-down signed with company logo

Bracelet: Stainless Steel with brushed links, two button clasp and slide lock extension.

Courtesy of Hager

So now for the personal stuff - which again, is biased.  The U2 Dragon Lady is priced at $650 US.  And I think that is a fair price for what you are getting.  

Second biased opinion - the choice to use the decision to use the Seiko VK64 Hybrid Chronograph movement was a very, very good one.  Frequent readers may recall that I bought a Straton Chronograph during BaselWorld that also featured a Hybrid movement.  And I love both of these watches for that movement as much as any other reason.  I love chronographs, I hate servicing (or paying for the servicing) of them.  Quartz accuracy, and no obnoxious "tick-tick-tick".  The chronograph hand sweeps.

So should you be of a mind, check it out here, you have been referred by a VERY BIASED source ; )

https://www.hagerwatches.com

Summer Repeat - It's Gotta' Be The Shoes!

This originally aired several years ago.  I had the very good fortune to meet the owner of ilmia (who also happened to be the designer of the MIH watch) and buy a pair of his sneakers.  I later bought two more pairs.  

The world needs more Christian Gafners.  The world needs more romantics, more people willing to put themselves out there.  It does not need more cynical celebrity (or Outlet X chasing) brownie hounds who prostitute themselves for a quick gain.  

I don't claim to know him well, but I can say that the one quality that comes through in truckloads is sincerity.  His focus and passion for ilmia is inspirational, on a par with Phil Night traveling to Japan to try and launch Blue Ribbon, which went on to become Nike so many years later.

The world needs more dreamers - and let's hope that this is a dream that will again become a reality.  Here's to Christian, and here's to ilmia.

And now -

It's Gotta be the Shoes... and the Watch Designer!

I was the ORIGINAL sneaker nut! When I was a (younger) Northern Youth, my friends and I became obsessed by Puma, Converse and most clearly - Adidas! And to all of you "millennials" out there, this was 1976/1977 Northern Ohio - Nike was not what it is today!

So I became obsessed with getting a REAL pair of GENUINE, MADE IN EUROPE Adidas shoes. There were two small drawbacks:

1. I had a kid's size 3.5 - which meant Buster Browns or Keds, but no Adidas available in our exotic location for such small feet.

2. Being all of 8 years old, pocket money would not nearly cover such a lavish expense as $30 - $40!

So enter my mother - who secretly scoured most of Northern Ohio to find a pair of Adidas Cadet shoes in my size, and they were under the Christmas tree! MAN - I LOVED THEM! They were white leather, with red and blue stripes. Made in France - which to my way of thinking might as well have been the moon! I wore them EVERYWHERE! In the snow, in the rain, in the mud - always taking great care to clean them up after.

Years later when I worked at Tourneau, customers would often state that the high end watch they were going to buy was an investment. I would say - yes and no. It is an emotional investment for sure, and if you keep it on that level you will never be disappointed. That very small pair of Adidas Cadets was for my mother an emotional investment in me.

And now, I am older. I see things a bit more cynically. But last year while visiting the oxen space in Lucerne, I felt the first stirrings of youthful enthusiasm for sneakers again -

Courtesy of Ilmia

This the ilmia in white. A lot like the Model T, you can have it in any color you like, as long as it's white, black or brown ; ) And I like that!

Courtesy of ilmia 

I know what you're thinking - so "OLD FASHIONED"...
YES - thank goodness! There is something in all of us that wants the original - not an "homage", but the real deal, or as close as you can come. So it took a man with a bit of vision to bring back this classic.

Courtesy of ilmia  

WAIT - what has this got to do with watches??!?
I'm glad you asked!

Courtesy of ilmia  

This is Christian - watch designer formerly of Porsche Design. And here is the rest of the story courtesy of ilmia -

2004, Swiss industrial designer Christian Gafner discovered the limited-edition ilmia shoes on the Internet. It was love at first sight. Contact with the project’s Berlin initiators was quickly established and the whole story surrounding the sports shoe multinational and its injunction came out. Gafner’s practiced eye immediately spotted the shoes’ potential. Unpacking the pair he had ordered over the Internet, he breathed in a set of familiar scents: the hint of adhesive and the fragrance of leather that took him back to his childhood and the hours spent in his grandfather’s shoe making workshop.

2006 found Christian Gafner working for Porsche Design, designing wristwatches for the prestigious brand. Deciding to take on the challenge of ilmia, he paid several visits to Berlin and spent the following two years preparing for the brand’s definitive relaunch. As a result, the shoes continue to be handcrafted in Weissenfels (Saxony-Anhalt, Germany). Through skillful application of the rules of shoe making, every upper is hand fashioned from high-grade full-grain leather and fitted with an out sole.

The design reinforces the brand’s authenticity, steering clear of short-term fashion trends. ilmia has no graphic logo as such, preferring instead to embroider its distinctive logotype on the outer flank of the left shoe in acknowledgment of the orphaned left shoe found in the Berlin flea market – the event that triggered the brand’s rebirth.

So lace up a pair of ilmias and embrace your inner sneaker freak!

The Flieger

From Hager -

Courtesy of Hager

Now before we go any further, to be clear I am partial, and biased towards Hager.  If you look to the right, you will see their mini banner, and while I am a fan of the watches, I also know that it is important to be transparent.  So we are going to stick to JUST THE FACTS.  This is the Flieger.

42.5 bead-blasted stainless steel with an exhibition back.  The movement is ETA's 2824.  The dial is listed as a Type B Flieger.

Here are all the pertinents -

Caliber: Swiss ETA 2824 automatic mechanical movement (self-winding)

Functions: Quick correction hours, minutes and seconds, second hand hacking

Total Diameter: 11.5 linge (25.6mm)

Height: 4.6mm

Jewels: 26 Jewels

Power Reserve: 40 Hours
Beat Rate: 4Hz/28'800 vibrations per hour/ Novodiac Shock Absorber

Accuracy: -10/+30 seconds per day


Material: 316L Marine grade stainless steel with a Bead Blasted Finish

Diameter: 42.5mm excluding crown

Height: Case height 9.5mm (13.5mm from the bottom of the case to the top of the sapphire crystal)

Length: 53mm lug to lug

Lug Width: 22mm

Water Resistance: 100m/330ft

Case Back: Solid steel screwed Exhibition caseback

Crystal: Domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal

Dial: Type B Flieger dial with luminous indexes

Hands: Blued outlined Type B sword hands with lumed with SuperLuminova C3

Crown: 7mm Screw-down

Bracelet: Leather Zulu Nato strap made by Eakin Street Studios (Alexandria) and an additional 2 piece leather band.

Say What?

Say What?

In fairness to the PR company charged with carrying the water for DOXA, they are merely doing what they have been retained to do.  But in all honesty, this has been one of the most curious pr campaigns many of us in the Fourth and Fifth Estates have seen in recent memory.

In the past few weeks many of us have received as many as three different press releases informing us that DOXA is new and improved with a crack team of people in the US being "managed" by the folks in Biel/Bienne.  Now after the second announcement, we get a third informing us that this tiger team will be based in Boca Raton, Florida.  With a phone number based somehow in, wait for it, the metro Tucson, Arizona area...  
Now I am not a geography expert, but let's just say that these two locations are not exactly around the corner from each other.  

And I have to be honest, this latest press release is starting to be reminiscent of the early days of the current US Presidential administration where the hapless Press Secretary was constantly spouting forth some pretty curious statements without any substance or points of clarity.  So we're going to unpack this latest release, with the questions that still remain unanswered.  Go get a coffee, take a bio-break, this will take a bit ; )

Encouraged by the excellent response from the markets, customers and media at this year’s Baselworld, the leadership at DOXA Watches is shifting the brand's international redeployment into high gear. 

Now I'd call that pretty generous.  

The majority of the press did not receive press invitations, and those who made their way to the booth were informed that there was, in essence, a new sherif in town.  Only a handful of people came back with much info.  The gold T-Graph and the new T-Graph were not not exactly the talk of the press room.  Actually, that's not fair.  The Gold T-Graph was a topic, but probably not in the way that the DOXA folks were hoping it to be.

DOXA Watches, based in Biel in the Canton of Berne, Switzerland, is a 100% subsidiary of Walca Group, an industrial company owned for more than 40 years by the Swiss Jenny family. Walca Group specializes in the development and manufacture of private label Swiss Made watches.  

Heading the leadership at DOXA Watches is Romeo F. Jenny, who represents the fourth generation of the family that owns the group and has entrusted the DOXA brand’s realignment and management to Jan Edöcs, Board Member of the Walca Group and CEO of DOXA Watches. 

As part of the first stage of the relaunch, all DOXA brand activities are now fully managed from Switzerland, which will enable a more streamlined, consistent and rapid reorganization process. 

Well, yes and no.  For the US market?  Let's hope you like Nutella, because I never got the impression that the Jenny's were big fans of peanut butter.  For those of you recently tuning in and not understanding the Tempus Fugit "Peanut Butter/Nutella" metaphor, let me quickly break it down for you.  Beyond language, every country has cultural differences, moreover every country has a different way that its potential customers "receive" the message.  Having your sales team (whoever that is, but more on that in a few minutes) based in the US is standard for any brand.  The key?  Are they confident enough to tell you that your marketing approach is jacked-up, or are they nodding along in the hopes of remaining employed?
There is a reason why we prefer peanut butter.  And unless a Swiss brand understands this, their messaging is going to miss the mark.

With regard to distribution, all markets, without exception, will operate and grow under the direct responsibility of the General Management in Switzerland, which will ensure consistency and cohesiveness across all activities. The brand’s presence in the United States, historically a key market, will be significantly reinforced with the opening of a North American (Canada and USA) subsidiary in Boca Raton, Florida, and the recruitment of a team entirely dedicated to the brand.

Ah-hah!  Now readers of the previous release will be forgiven for assuming that, in fact, this tiger team had already been recruited, screened, hired and onboarded.  In fact, apparently not so much.  For those of you who missed it -

Our dedicated team in the United States under the direct management of HQ in Switzerland will be happy to help and answer any queries.

So per today's press release, we'll interpret that to mean the "soon to be" team. You either have a team, or you don't. You don't get a little bit pregnant, and "I'mgonnastan" is not the most advantageous business residence.   And this raises other questions -

who will be heading this subsidiary?
That would be reasonable thing to have ironed out given that the North American HQ location has been determined. And by making this announcement, it will ease a lot of anxiety amongst DOXA-Holics out there.

Building on the redeployment in North America market, Doxa Watches will consolidate the English-speaking market universe by opening two new distributorships: in the UK and Australia. The two distributors DOXA is partnering with are intimately familiar with the brand and have a strong marketing presence in their respective territories. These markets are very promising for the brand’s legendary SUB collections. 

Once again - 
WHO?

Elsewhere in the world, the brand is established in Hong Kong and China, as well as in Central Europe, Poland, Romania, Bulgaria and Hungary, and its strong presence in these markets will enable DOXA to further capitalize on what’s been achieved so far. 

Yeah, I wouldn't be counting on too many sales out of Hong Kong for the foreseeable.  Now if DOXA were a bigger name, they could at least count on trans-shipping via Hong Kong to Singapore and other locations to move product.  If the word around the campfire is to be believed, there is not going to be much happening in Hong Kong for the next several months - which might as well mean the rest of the year.

DOXA Watches also plans to reinforce its position with a dedicated organization in Germany to facilitate direct access to European customers. The Swiss domestic market will naturally also benefit from a strengthened distribution structure. 

With regard to collections, the massive success of the new products launched at Baselworld 2019...

Sorry, what?  I was there, and fellow press people came to me personally to ask me not about the amazing new products, but rather, "what the f*&k is going on?"  

...has accelerated a major overhaul in recent months. Streamlining the collections, reducing the number of references, delving deeper into the brand's DNA and focusing on the legendary SUB concept, have been the focus of DOXA Watches’ development team. 

Sorry, calling bullshit on this one.  Plans are not simply improvised over a 30 - 60 day time frame.  I think it is reasonable to assume that these plans have been in place for some time. And again, given the very small amount of press that came out post BaselWorld, I find that statement a wee bit disingenuous.  

Announcing a new evolution of the DOXA SUB concept: from now on, all the iconic SUB models (42mm and 45mm as well as the SUB 200) will systematically be available as non-limited series in all 6 historical dial colors – orange of course, but also yellow, navy blue, turquoise, silver and black. 

With regard to limited editions, DOXA Watches will continue to introduce special models such as the famous SUB 200 T.GRAPH, though in a more exclusive context and in smaller production runs than in the past. 

Finally, to address the changes made on the marketing front, DOXA watches is proud to surface with a new international identity, ensuring a clear, crisp and consistent brand image throughout the world. Faithful to the brand's DNA: a new logo to express the DOXA spirit; a new communication campaign with a new claim #YourCalltoAdventure to capture the imagination; a new website for better, easier and more rewarding brand access; and new social networks, now active under the DoxaWatchesOfficial identity, to engage and exchange among fans.

And this last passage?  I don't have the time or the intestinal fortitude to delve any further.  And I have a shiny new penny for anyone who can tell me just what is meant by:
"more rewarding brand access".  Does this mean there's going to be some sort of "points club" like at CVS or Safeway where I can get my watch at a reduced price?  Needless to say, English can be a funny language... 

Simply telling the press again, and again, and again how great this new structure is going to be is a bit backwards, I'm sorry, but don't keep telling us.  

Show us.

The ADMIRAL AC-ONE 45 Chronograph

This is a new take on the ADMIRAL, the ADMIRAL AC-ONE 45 Chronograph, from Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

Courtesy of Corum

Courtesy of Corum

Courtesy of Corum

Here is all of the info, by way of the press release just as it was received:

The new urban warrior unleashed

Corum injects modernity and athleticism into its Admiral collection

The Admiral is one of the pillars of Corum’s heritage. Unveiled in 1960, five shortyears after the brand’s creation, it embodies the Swiss watchmaker’s idea ofmaritime-inspired watchmaking. Although it has always been loyal to its artistic fibre, it has never been afraid to set sail for distant shores. This year, it gives its Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph a facelift so as to modernise the collection while lending it an urban sportiness.

First introduced into the brand stable as the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Chronograph in 2013, the masculine-looking watch has always been a combination of power, elegance and performance with a huge dose of inspiration from the sailing world. The new Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph retains the essence of its sporty predecessor except for a few minor tweaks. The“60” hour marker at 12 o’clock has been replaced by the Corum key and brand logo, which have been slightly enlarged to give better brand visibility. Another benefit from this minor design modification is the introduction of more breathing space on the dial—the watch face of the previous incarnation felt busier and with this small change, the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph looks sleeker and more contemporary.

Corum also worked on the case shape of the watch. While it follows strictly to the case shape of the legendary Admiral watch, there is a marked difference—the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph features a more angular dodecagonal bezel compared to its predecessor, which boasted more rounded corners in a bid to create a more sophisticated aesthetic. For the new variant, Corum has also included two titanium inserts between the bezel and case so as to offer the option of playing with colours and materials—the possibility of mixing and matching is boundless and is something that the Swiss watchmaker will experiment with in the future. The result lends a more powerful and athletic presence on the wrist, which also makes the watch highly suitable for the rigours of everyday wear.

For the chronograph display, Corum stuck to the same tri-compax arrangement but what has changed is the dial design. The watch face comeswith a “Grenadier fendu” motif, which is a unique pattern worked on by a teamof experienced designers back at the Corum manufacture in La-Chaux-du- fonds. This also means that the dial is only unique to the brand. And instead of monochromatic dials as with the predecessor, the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph comes with black or white dials with contrasting sub-dials. On the former are white sub-dials framed by either white or rose gold rings, while the latter features black sub-dials encircled by white or rose gold rings.

While the previous versions were offered with either the rubber strap or metal bracelet, the new Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph comes with a vulcanised rubber strap that features a triple folding clasp, which replaces the old tongue buckle. Corum will also offer the watch with either a titanium or rose gold bracelet.

The 12 nautical pennants, which are synonymous with the Admiral collection, remain on the flange as hour markers albeit without the bright colours so as to allow the watch to look sleek and modern. Powering the chronograph is the highly reliable Calibre CO 132, a self-winding movement that beats at 4 Hertz and boasts 42 hours of power reserve, 100m water resistance and decorative finishes specific to Corum. Turn the watch over to appreciate the finer details and finishing through the screwed-down open-worked caseback.
The Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph is available in 2 dial colours of black or white. The black dial version comes available in either 5N 18kt rose gold or titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment; while the white dial is available in titanium grade 5 or 5N 18kt rose gold. All versions come with a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, which makes reading time a cinch from any angle.

While the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph may not have undergone major modifications, it is important for the watchmaker to tweak an icon to suit modern tastes and offer product longevity to the end-consumers. With these changes, the chronograph will now speak to a wider audience that run the gamut from sailing enthusiasts to sports watch lovers to corporate eagles looking for fuss-free horological cred on the wrist.

Doing Good - Hublot and SORAI

Courtesy of Hublot

It is nice to see the folks in Nyon picking up a very positive charitable partnership.  
Me personally?  I really like rhinos and elephants, and unless something pretty dramatic happens, both are rapidly heading towards extinction.  

SORAI - Save Our Rhinos Africa & India are actively working to help preserve and protect the remaining populations and hopefully help them slowly recover.  Per their "about" statement -
We are committed to rescue abandoned, injured, and orphaned rhinos and to rehabilitate them wherever possible. Through various organizations we enlist the help of veterinarians, nutritionists, ecologists, and other specialists, to ensure the successful rehabilitation and release of these animals.


That seems like a pretty good deal to me.
So in support of this very positive partnership, the full release as I received it.
And a very sincere THANK YOU to Hublot! It is appreciated!

HUBLOT IS COMMITTED TO HELPING PROTECT THE RHINOCEROS AND IS NOW PARTNERING SORAI – SAVE OUR RHINOS AFRICA AND INDIA

A forthcoming timepiece will immortalise this commitment

Hublot has joined in partnership with Kevin Pietersen and SORAI (Save Our Rhinos Africa and India) to protect the rhinoceros, which is facing extinction. The ex-international cricket star, and Brand ambassador, is now able to dedicate himself entirely to a cause very close to his heart: saving these huge herbivorous mammals, found in Africa and in Asia, now a matter of urgency for the planet and our future generations. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, is currently in South Africa to launch this partnership with Kevin Pietersen. To seal this collaboration, the watch Manufacture has developed a watch which will be unveiled very soon.

Hunted for their highly valuable horns, two thirds of species could be lost in our lifetime. To help prevent this, abandoned, injured, or orphaned baby rhinos are located and cared for by teams of specialists actively supported by Kevin Pietersen, before being released back into the wild as soon as they are ready. South Africa is home to more than 80% of the world's rhinos, and the majority of poaching incidents take place in Kruger national park.

There are around 28,000 rhinos remaining worldwide, 23 times fewer than there are African elephants! Poaching is one of the main threats they face. Major steps have been taken by governments to introduce regulations but informing consumers and changing their behaviour remains a key challenge in the fight against poaching. If Hublot can play a role in raising awareness, then I would be delighted.

Ricardo GuadalupeCEO of Hublot


Our planet is home to five species of rhinoceros: the Black rhino and the White rhino, which live in Africa, and the Sumatran, Javan and Indian rhino, which inhabit the tropical forests and swamps of Asia. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, of these five species, the Black, Javan and Sumatran rhino are now considered "critically endangered", White rhino are "nearly threatened" and Indian rhino are "vulnerable". I am appalled by the brutality they face. There is an urgent need for action, and Hublot's support for this is crucial. By reducing the time it takes to act, we can protect as many rhinos as possible.

Kevin Pietersen - Founder of SORAI


The actions of Kevin Pietersen – SORAI
Following his prestigious cricketing career, working in rhino conservation was an obvious move for Kevin Pietersen to make, as he is passionately devoted to this crucial cause. He founded SORAI in 2018 to support the various organisations - comprising rangers, nutritionists, ecologists and other specialists - who strive every day to save, care for, and ensure the complete rehabilitation of every mammal found in Africa and Asia. This global initiative is designed to raise public awareness, to inform and educate to initiate a change in behaviour, and to raise funds to build up the resources and equipment needed for these rhino conservation, monitoring and care activities to continue their essential work.

Summer Rerun - The First Kiss

This was one of the very first Tempus Fugit posts.  An interesting day today where I discovered something completely new, that in turn reminded me why I still like writing about this stuff.  So here you go, reheated straight from the stovetop!

Summer Rerun - The First Kiss

Wendy and I were living and working in Turku, Finland back in the mid 90's. One day I had some time on my hands between classes and went for a walk, ending up in a "thrift/flea market/antique" store. After nosing around something caught my eye half-buried under a heap of Soviet era war ribbons and decorations. The dial was "splotchy" to say the least, having acquired a pattern well beyond patina. The hands were dinged up and the crown was somewhat rough. But it worked! I asked the gentleman how much, and he told me the equivalent in US dollars - about $50.00. Probably my only regret is that I never took a "before" picture.

As an English teacher I was not blessed with a great deal of disposable income, so I went off to teach my class. I mean, $50 was a lot of money.  The next week Wendy and I visited the shop and it was still there. Another two weeks went by and I just had to have it - and luckily it was still there - I went to the Merita bank ATM and withdrew the Markka (pre- Euro days), and made my purchase.

This Omega Seamaster is from 1963 - about 5 years older than me - and had been the retirement present for someone named Janne. That spurred what I rather naively imagined as a great research project, a triumphant discovery of the identity of the original owner. Phone books would be consulted and cross-referenced, family members sought out, utility company clerks charmed, whatever it took to get the real identity of the original Janne of 1963 - I would go the distance! Sadly, owing to the limited scope of the Internet at that time, as well as my limited (read 0) ability in the Finnish language, the great Seamaster 30 research project of 1997 came to a screeching halt one Friday evening at the Old Bank one of Turku's re-purposed pubs, exactly one week after it started!  Over what would become the third of several rather "hoppy" beverages, my erstwhile research partner Raimo had had enough and was throwing in the towel. As I walked him back to the bus station for his 2 hour ride back to Rauma, the folly of my vision became startlingly clear through rather foggy eyes.

I suspect the original Janne has long since left the realm of us who measure time in hours and minutes, and I feel bad that his family had, for whatever reason, decided to part with this watch - this treasure. Ultimately, it is a possession, a thing.  It is steel and levers and springs. It is utilitarian - it tells the time.  It is not Janne.  But for me, the interloper, there is more.  This is something that Janne strapped on with pride every day.  While this is not him, this is something of him.  I can imagine Janne winding it every morning as he looked at the Helsingin Sanomat (unless he opted for the local Turku paper).  A second cup of coffee, and maybe now he's ready to take the dog out for a walk.  He probably still talks about talvisota - the Winter War.  He might have even known Paavo Nurmi - after all, Turku wasn't such a big town back then.

Sitting here in Santa Barbara I imagine the two of us having a beer together at the Old Bank, talking about ice hockey, the end of the Cold War and sharing stories about our Seamaster 30.  I would proudly show him the restored watch - "Look at this Janne! New hands, crown, crystal - all original from Omega!"

He would probably just smile politely and shake his head at my extravagance. "Does it still tell the time?" he'd ask me, and only then would I understand.

Something Surprising At SOWA

Okay, in fairness every city seems to have it's cool little enclaves.  When Wendy and I moved to San Francisco at the turn of the century, it was SOMA (South of Market).  And we've come to find out that Boston is no different with its SOWA (South of Washington) district.

During the winter months, there is the SOWA holiday fair which provides two weekend opportunities to come and check out local goods and food stuffs.  During the summer it expands to a weekly get-together complete with food trucks - and for the record, I LIKE FOOD TRUCKS!  While interesting, a lot of the booths are pretty predictable and some we have been seeing the same products for the past three years.  But today was different.  Today Wendy and I discovered Merchant Watch Company -
https://www.merchantwatchcompany.com

Now I personally had never heard of Merchant, or seen the straps produced by the owner, Kyle Moise.  But as I have often said before, I've led a bit of an unexamined life.  The straps made by Merchant Watch Company were quite impressive, and well priced for the amount of detail work that went in.

One that caught our collective eye was the Vintage Blue Italian Calf -

Courtesy of Merchant Watch Company

Now at the risk of sounding dismissive, there are a bunch of guys (and I suspect gals as well) in the US who are making custom and handmade straps. I've seen plenty, but these were pretty special.

But then something caught my eye, and that was the watch that Mr. Moise was wearing -

I tried not to pry to deeply as he had customers looking at straps.  But suffice it to say the straps (if I understand it correctly) are what pay the bills.  But in fact, what he is really devoted to is making a watch - case, crown, dial and hands (and yes, obviously straps) himself!  The movement is a manually wound Peseux.

Courtesy of Merchant Watch Company

I will reach out and see if I can get some more details on this, and any other watches that he might have up his sleeve, so stay tuned!

Revisiting a Personal Favorite - The BR V2-94 BELLYTANKER

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This one came out a while ago, but as I always say, watches aren't milk or eggs, they don't go off with age.

Some pieces just stick with you, and the BELLYTANKER has stayed with me some some time.  This one is a bit special.  I am particularly drawn to what my fellow sneaker heads refer to as the "color way".  Black and white is easy.  Blue and white is a gimme.   Not quite your traditional copper, and not really beige at all.  It is unique, something that not everyone is going to get or appreciate.  But that's part of why I dig it.

Here are the pertinents -

Limited to 500 pieces

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o'clock. Date. Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o'clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 41 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Steel bezel with tachymeter scale. Screw-down crown and push-buttons. Sapphire case-back.

Dial: gilt. Metal applique numerals and indices. Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Straps: satin-polished steel or brown calfskin.

Buckle: folding. Satin-polished steel.

Summer Repeat - How David Is Kicking Goliath's Ass

This one was first put out nearly 3 years ago (August 28, 2016 to be exact).  I have spent the last year focusing more on helping smaller brands with marketing and PR and judging by how they are starting to grow, I feel that this post was on the money.  So nearly three years later, I thought it might be interesting to re-heat this one.  Now when I first wrote this, I simply went on the idea that if 100 brands sold 100 watches, wouldn't you like to have that business?  But given the gains that some of these brands are making, I am thinking that the business model needs to shift.

The days when you picked a watch based on the brand that made it are rapidly disappearing in the rear view mirror.  Some of these upstarts are selling several hundreds of pieces per year, and if they stay focused it might even grow beyond.

But the key to the success of these giant killers is the understanding that being small, quick and nimble are key factors in their success.  

I had a conversation with a big brand manager (American) at BaselWorld this year where he sort of turned up his nose, saying that "some of these brands don't even assemble their own watches!"  I started laughing and he asked me what was so funny.  I replied - "Neither does your brand!  I've visited an assembler where I've seen several of your brand's collection being assembled."

Let's just say didn't go down so well ; )

So here once again, gentle reader -

How David is Kicking Goliath's Ass - Or what micro brands could teach the big dogs

Now you might recall back in the early days of Tempus Fugit I waxed lyrical as to the difference between real brands and "vanity" or "dentist" brands.  My point being that there was a clear difference between what a real brand did and what a "hobbyist" did.  Well, I am about to take almost all of that back, with the caveat that there is indeed a difference between what a big brand does vs. what a hobbyist does - but perhaps not in the manner that you might think.

Over the past few years there have been an overwhelming number of watch start-ups out there vying for our attention via Facebook, Kickstarter and just about every other means of social media engagement.  In doing some research for a few clients, I got to 85 and had to quit because the number of micro brands that I had not yet listed far exceeded the 85 that I already had committed to my Excel spreadsheet.  It is safe to say that there will be no shortage of micro brand start ups in the foreseeable future.

In an interesting parallel, the number of "big boy" brands that are out there has begun to stagnate, and we will, I am fairly certain, see some unhappy "obituary" announcements in the coming months.  While it is a bit of a necessity to adjust the sails of your boat to accommodate the prevailing winds, many of the bigger brands are still sailing along as if the winds are wrong, and only they are right, and they are getting closer to the rocks every day.

What the micro brands demonstrate loud and clear is perhaps the most important idea that the other "established" brands don't seem to understand:

Connecting to your customer is fundamental.  

This is, believe it or not, the single biggest take away from the explosions of micro brands.  Think about it a minute, how is it that someone from outside of the industry, working (usually) completely alone can harness a few hundred strangers from out in the cold to get excited about a watch that doesn't yet exist, from a brand that (at least in the beginning) is nothing more than hope and optimism?

And I'm sure that the big brands are thinking who cares?  Small numbers!  Well, If I just go by some basic presumptions:

Let's, for the purposes of argument, assume that the total number of active micro brands out there is 100.  And again, just spit-balling here, put the number of units sold annually at 100 each.  So now that you have done the math, it is safe to assume that is a pretty good number.

And keep in mind that these folks are doing this without multiple layers of VPs, directors, managers, staffers and interns.  Several brands would kill to get 10,000 new customers, and they have more resources than can be imagined.  Yet they are still unable to focus on the most important thing that drives the possible growth of their business - connecting with past, current and future customers.

Let's see if any of the bigger brands are paying attention, or if they are asleep at the switch.

Deja Vu All Over Again

Am I the only one who remembers the 70s and 80s?  

With the latest results from the FH, I am more and more convinced that maybe myself and a handful of other people are the only ones who do.  Right now according to the FH and some of the reporting from some very fine (sincerely) and respected writers in the industry it would be easy to keep sipping the Kool Aid and assume that everything is fine.

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info web

Sometimes it is easy to go for and accept the simple answer without really looking in depth at what is hiding just below the surface.  So allow me to yank this particular band aid off.

To quote that other great commentator on the watch industry, Lily Tomlin -

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse

FACT 1 - Exports do not equal sell through.
Anecdotal evidence from several sources that I tend to put a lot of faith in report that the sell-through in Hong Kong has plunged in some stores by 80% over the past 8 weeks. Now the easy argument would be that this is the reason for the downturn in exports. But if you look at the graph from the FH over the past YEAR, you will note that the export numbers have consistently been trending DEEP SOUTH. That's right pals and gals, long before the protests started in Hong Kong. Now recent events have firmly planted the accelerator to the floor. So sorry great watch authority from Outlet X, you're not looking at the whole picture.

This is real boys and girls, and it will have a massive impact on future shipments over the next 6 to 12 months.
FACT 2 - The fewer watches you manufacture, the fewer you can sell (whether through authorized outlets or our old friend the grey market).
Based on the Swiss Federal Institute of Statistics and the Swiss Watch Federation the Swiss Watch Industry exported in 2014 28,582,190 MILLION watches. Now add to this quantity what was sold in the Swiss domestic market (which is estimated to 1.4 Million) and we're at around 30 million. 

Now for the Pepsi Challenge -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info web

Let's compare this to the current reporting of the Swiss Watch Federation. We are projecting to be slightly over 1/3 less in terms of manufacturing. 
Now, before you assemble a care package for your favorite CEO who treats you to that tasting menu each year during your visit... oh wait, that's right! You are NEVER going to be feted at one of these press carnivals.  Sorry...

At any rate, the CEO is covered, it's cheaper for the brand to keep paying him or her to do nothing. The sales manager and heads of pr and marketing will not have to start driving used cars or shopping at the Salvation Army. But let's talk about the people actually making those watches in (most typically) assembly houses, and some who work for the big brands. Believe me, those folks will get the axe long before brand x cancels their America's Cup partnership, their Wine Country press junket, or their brand ambassador from the Marvel Universe. You might not hear too much about these people in terms of the Swiss employment statistics. Why? Well also curious to relate, a lot of the people who assemble your watch in Switzerland are not, by actual definition, Swiss. Italian and French citizens cross the borders every day to work for Swiss companies making Swiss watches. It's not to say that they don't count, but in terms of Swiss employment figures, let's just say it tends to skew the graph plot.

As one Swiss insider stated, "the tissue is melting away!" But according to the Swiss Watch Federation, and the reporting of some tail waggers out there, things are even better now than ever before because, wait for it, the export value is increasing! 

Now I am 51 years old, and in fairness, I was not exactly engaged in the watch business at 11 years of age. But I do make a point of trying to understand the past and how it has influenced where we are now, and I also try to pay attention to where we're heading.

FACT 3 - And the one reality that should have the management at the SWATCH group up late nights and shitting themselves? Low priced Swiss watches where the big volumes are in production and (it stands to reason) sales are dramatically dropping again. While Hublot Big Bangs and Vacheron Constantin Overseas are sexy, they are not exactly owned and worn by the masses. And the Swiss watch industry is, well, industrial - meaning it involves thousands of people with thousands of jobs making (ideally) millions of watches. But just like 40 years ago there have been, and continue to be, warning signs that are being ignored.

Think about this basically, we‘re talking about millions of pieces that are not manufactured and assembled anymore. This inevitably leads to thousands of jobs lost already and thousands more that will be lost in the near future.
The shit's about to get even realer.