Thursday, January 31, 2019

The Tangente neomatik 41 Update in Dark Platinum

From NOMOS-

Courtesy of NOMOS

This is a follow-up on the previous release in a new color version.

Courtesy of NOMOS

Here are the pertinents -



CASE:
stainless steel, bipartite sapphire crystal glass back

GLASS:
sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side

WINDING:
automatic
DIMENSIONS: 
diameter 40.5 mm height 7.9 mm
WATER RESISTANCE:
up to 5 atm (suitable for showering) 


DIAL:
galvanized, refined with ruthenium date ring

HANDS: 
rhodium-plated
STRAP:
Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, remborde 
lug width 20 mm
REFERENCE: 
181
 
CALIBER
DUW 6101—in-house built NOMOS neomatik caliber with automatic winding, neomatik date mechanism, and bidirectional quick correction feature

MOVEMENT HEIGHT: 
3.6 mm
DIAMETER:
15 1⁄2 lines (35.2 mm)

POWER RESERVE: 
up to 42 hours 


SPECIAL QUALITIES
NOMOS swing system tempered blue balance spring
NOMOS balance bridge, fixed by screws on both sides
stop-seconds mechanism bidirectional winding rotor with gold-plated embossing

Glashütte three-quarter plate
DUW regulation system adjusted in six positions 27 jewels

tempered blue screws rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage golden engravings




 


Tuesday, January 29, 2019

A Few Minutes with Kikuo Ibe

Life, it would seem, is full of unexpected twists and turns.  
The creation of the G-Shock is tied inextricably with it's creator, Kikuo Ibe, and although I missed the opportunity to speak with him personally in Japan, and a few months later when he visited New York, he was kind enough to make time to speak with me over a few days between his appearances.

Courtesy of Casio
In some ways it could be said that the birth of the G-Shock while not necessarily a series of happy accidents, was clearly shaped by fate stepping in on more than one occasion, and perhaps just a bit of luck to go along with a never-say-die philosophy.

Courtesy of Casio
And now, a few minutes with Kikuo Ibe -


Courtesy of Wikipedia

You attended Sophia University, what professor or class do you feel had the most impact on you?

I was always most interested by Science class growing up and during my time at Sophia. My Professor was an older man who taught me a lot and helped spark my creativity and curiosity.

Courtesy of Casio
Two of my favorite Japanese words are Giri (義理) and Wa () What role do you feel these words have meant in your life?

Wa means “team work” and is one of the Japanese words that means the most to me. When looking back at the development of the MR-G, I don’t know that I would have been able to bring that concept to life without the help of the project members working below me. I cherish the word “Wa” both in my career and life.

Although you have been with Casio for (I believe) your entire professional life, you do not seem to be the typical "salary man". Looking back, what were you expecting when you joined Casio?

I do consider myself a typical "salary man". Interestingly enough, Casio was the only company I even interviewed with when I graduated from university. I didn't have specific expectations for Casio, but I consider myself very lucky to have seen such tremendous growth over my years with the company and am deeply appreciative to the brand for all the opportunities over the years.

Courtesy of Casio

Could the G-Shock have been created in any other place? I ask because Japan is a country that had to reinvent itself, but never lost touch of its identity. 

I think that the G-SHOCK brand came to life because I am Japanese. I don’t know that it would have been created in another place.


When I was researching you for this interview, and also reflecting back upon my visit to the Casio facilities, 大変 (taihen) comes to mind. If there were a Japanese word that describes the process and struggle to not only create the original G-Shock but to continue to innovate and develop it, what would it be?

I’d have to say ‘challenge after challenge’ (挑戦に次ぐ挑戦)
Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide info web

I have often thought that Ken Takakura would have been an amazing brand ambassador for G-Shock. If you were responsible for marketing, and you could have anyone, who would you choose?

Typically, G-SHOCK doesn't have specific ambassadors outside of our athletes, but Ken is great guy and that would have been a great partnership.  

Tokyo Giants or Hanshin Tigers?



The Giants are primarily shown on TV and covered in the news, so I’d say I’m more of a Tokyo Giants fan.

How did something that in many ways is SOOOOO Japanese, the G-Shock, find such widespread international appeal?

I really attribute that to the efforts of G-SHOCK’s marketing and sales teams. When I first developed G-SHOCK, I couldn't imagine the current level of brand awareness and milestones like our 100M G-SHOCK being sold in the world in 2017.

I moved to Japan in 1992 (Kasukabe-shi, Saitama-ken), and only last January returned after nearly 25 years. So many things had changed, and so many remained the same. What do you think has enabled G-Shock to stay relevant for so many years in such a dynamic place?

It took a while for G-SHOCK to be as widely accepted in Japan as it is now. It wasn’t an easy task but with the help of each department (R&D, Marketing, Sales) we’ve developed great products that offer consumers something special.

Steel is the latest "hot" version of the G-Shock, what other materials do you think might be worth trying? 

I’ve always had an interest in Titanium and think that would be an interesting one to try to make a G-SHOCK from.

And perhaps this is a good place to leave it for now, what the future might hold and where the path might be.  But the spirit remains the same - Never Give Up!


Monday, January 28, 2019

The Arceau L'heure de la lune

From Hermès

Courtesy of Hermes
Sorry for the brevity, but the level of hyperbole in the press releases coming through lately is starting to strain credulity, so we'll just stick to the pertinents, with a brief preamble, straight from the source -

The new Arceau L’heure de la lune watch offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres.

DIAL
AVENTURINE DIAL
White-lacquered mobile counters, black transfers
METEORITE DIAL
Gradated grey-lacquered mobile counters,
white transfers
 Moons in white natural mother-of-pearl
Southern moon: Pegasus transfer inspired
by the Pleine Lune motif designed by
Dimitri Rybaltchenko
Northern moon: lunar surface transfer
Blued hands
 
CASE
Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978
White gold case (≈ 68.2g)
43mm in diameter, 22mm interhorn width
Antiglare sapphire crystal and case-back
Water-resistant to 3 bar
 
MOVEMENT
Hermès Manufacture H1837 movement
Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made
Diameter: 26mm (11½’’’)
Thickness: 3.7mm
193 components, 28 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Circular-grained and snailed baseplate,
satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight,
signature “H” pattern
 
MODULE
Exclusive “L’heure de la lune” module
Diameter: 38mm (16¾’’’)
Thickness: 4.2mm
117 components, 14 jewels
Polished and bead-blasted bridges
 
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, date, double moon phase
(display of moon phases seen from the northern
and southern hemispheres)
 
STRAP
AVENTURINE DIAL
Matt abyss blue alligator
METEORITE DIAL
Matt graphite grey alligator
17mm white gold folding clasp (≈ 26.39g)


 

Thursday, January 24, 2019

The Transfer Window Has Openend...

At Eterna/Corum.  Word trickled down to the Boston Metro area, and after a week of useless effort, we finally got two sources of confirmation (albeit not official) but if the rumblings are true, it would seem that the Widowmaker has struck again, and Jérôme Biard will be exploring career opportunities outside of the gates of La Chaux-de-Fonds.  Making this an even shorter tenure than the last few predecessors.  What the reasons for the rather short period in charge are (at least to the team at Tempus Fugit HQ) unclear, it would seem that the catamaran that is Eterna/Corum is once again without a captain.

Now before you all start rolling your eyes, and click out to go read the "feelgood" tripe over at some of the other sites, I would beg your indulgence.  I know that I can be a bit of a "henki-raincloud" but I also think it might be time to stop (collectively) clapping like seals when a brand dangles a shiny new celebrity partner, a fancy new tourbillon, or treats our favorite instafamous personalies (i.e. not you) for a fun night out at the SIHH and instead face some realities.

The watch industry is still very much in turmoil.  Think I'm full of it?  Even the smiling swells over at that other outlet that starts with an H have indicated that, in fact, the outcome from the SIHH was not nearly as rosy as might be hoped after they (the SIHH) had hosed BaselWorld out of some of their shining stars over the past few years.  Curious to relate, watch brands actually need to sell actual watches to actual clients that have actual customers who will actually buy said watch.  And actually?  Said people were not exactly abundant in the halls of Geneva.

Here's another fun factoid - the majority of watches sold in the world are (brace yourself) not covered by the majority of the watch media, because, well, they're junk.  Or at least that's what we believe, and try to have you believe.  But also curious to relate, one person's junk is another person's treasure.  I have met many people who still treasure their base metal Timex owing to the personal connection that they have to the watch.  Another fun fact that is probably lost on the Commerce Secretary of the US, as it would have been on another watch fan - Marie Antoinette, is that the majority of watches bought and sold in the world are WAY less expensive than those sold by Richemont, SWATCH Group, or in this case Eterna and Corum.  

And I promise, this is where I tie it together ; )

When you are making (albeit through third-party assemblers) marketing (and hopefully) selling something that nobody needs, you need to actually focus on all of the things surrounding the watch.  As my old master sales sensei (Javi Perrigo) used to remind me - "You have to romance the watch".  A watch, in and of itself, is merely a device to tell time (assuming it's working correctly and the rotor hasn't disengaged itself from the movement proper and is bouncing around the case).  Now obviously, a big part of that is down to marketing.  But another big part of that is the "feeling" of and for the brand with the general public, and that is not an "instafamous" thing.  A quick personal example - I am going to purchase an "instant" camera for BaselWorld so that I can get a quick shot of watches of interest during visits, print them out immediately and tape them into my notebook along with the pertinents so that when I review the digital images, it will all be familiar.  Now I could buy a less-expensive model, but truth be told I have had my eye on Leica's Sofort.  It is easily twice as expensive as other brand's models (which relatively speaking is still pretty low), it works just as well as models that Fuji makes for half the price, but it still speaks to me.  Part of this is the actual product design, part of this is the Leica history (which is silly, because I have been led to understand that under the paint, it is the same thing that Fuji will sell me for 50% less).  But yet I still want it.

Think about that for a moment, and then I think that why some brands succeed and others perpetually choke on the bone becomes clear.  Leica knows their market, and they communicate in a way that is understandable and inclusive.  Eterna and Corum in many ways have everything that they need to not merely survive, but to thrive.  Rich histories, strong model identity and they have at one time or another had some very smart people working for them.  But where they have perpetually fallen in the shit is ego, avarice and discontent.  And that has been not just down to the various CEOs, although they have certainly contributed.  No, it is cultural, and at this point?  Both brands need a corporate cultural enema.  Previously it was easy to blame a CEO, or Chinese ownership, etc.  But it bears mentioning that you can change owners, change directors, but the end results tend to be the same.  When Severin Wunderman took over Corum, he created a new spirit, a new identity, a new way to do things.  He was the colonic flush that the brand needed.

And when we get to the million dollar question, who should be next?  There is one guy out there that I KNOW could turn it around.  A fellow who could adjust the sails of that catamaran trapped in the doldrums, and fill the sails with the winds of change, hope and success.

And if the folks at CityChamp wants to know who that guy is?  Give me a call, I won't even charge you a referral fee ; )




Wednesday, January 23, 2019

Welcome to the Club!

NOMOS has announced three new variants of the Club Campus -

Courtesy of NOMOS


We're going to check these out one at a time.  And for those of you playing along at home, you will note that a bracelet secures this watch as opposed to the typical leather strap found on a NOMOS watch.

This is the Club Campus neomatik 39, and here are the pertinents -

CASE
stainless steel, bipartite stainless steel back

GLASS

domed sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side

WINDING 

automatic

DIMENSIONS 

diameter 39.5 mm height 8.4 mm

WATER RESISTANCE 

up to 20 atm (suitable for diving) 



DIAL
galvanized, white silver- plated
Arabic and Roman numerals and indexes with dark blue superluminova

HANDS
rhodium-plated, hour and minute hands with white superluminova inlay

STRAP
bracelet
lug width 20 mm

REFERENCE
 

765 

CALIBER
DUW 3001—in-house built NOMOS neomatik caliber with automatic winding

MOVEMENT HEIGHT
 

3.2 mm

DIAMETER

12 3⁄4 lines (28.8 mm)

POWER RESERVE
 

up to 43 hours


Monday, January 21, 2019

Where's Biver?

So I guess this is one of those "what if Paul is dead" type of posts.  But in fact, it's more along the lines of - what if Jean-Claude Biver didn't really retire?

Shamelessly borrowed from the word-wide infoweb
Okay, in fairness I have already placed my bet that Mr. Biver is no more likely to retire than I am to buy a Shinola watch.  For those tuning in late?  Let's just say I am sometimes unable to discern the difference between fecal matter and the time telling products produced under the Shinola banner.

So if we go with the premise that Jean-Claude Biver is, to quote that other great commentator on watch industry - Kool Moe Dee: "Coming back, like Return of the Jedi", there are only a handful of brands that would really fit the ticket.  Although he looked "Tony Robbins Good" in his video interview a few weeks back, we have to accept the fact that he is not in his 40s or 50s anymore.  So where on the Monopoly board would he be likely to land?  Well, news dribbled out from a few sources today that a small family operation based in Geneva might be seeking new ownership, and while he would not be the owner, he might certainly be seen as the lynch pin in a potential purchase.

For a direct report, please have a quick look at this link from 
SwissInfo.CH - 

SWISSINFO.CH PATEK

Now there are those out there who would say that the whole point of Patek Philippe is that it is a family owned brand, privately held, yada yada yada, they would never, ever sell.  Well, maybe not so much.  Let's consider a few of life's less romantic realities -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb
1. Very few people actually want to go on forever. Let's face it, even Sisyphus got worn down from the routine. Sooner or later, if you've been doing something a long enough time, you don't necessarily want to keep pushing that particular boulder up the hill.  Now there are those of you out there who would be scoobied by anyone who wouldn't want to lead the world's most famous watch brand.  But we have to remember that Thierry Stern was for all intents and purposes born into the business.  Nothing wrong with that, but for all we know, he has harbored a secret ambition to paint murals, become a master pastry chef, teach history... hell, maybe even be a ditch-digger.  But these have never really been possibilities.  If his kids are disinterested in following the family path, then who could blame him for looking for a reliable custodian and cashing in his chips while he still has a winning hand?

2.  Very few people actually want to go on forever, but a few do.  A bit of personal Henki history - my father was a bit of a living legend in his particular field of endeavor.  Now to be fair, the field of private club management (country club, city club, private club) is a fairly niche profession, but over the years he managed to cut a pretty wide swath through his chosen area.  He retired a little ahead of the typical age of 65, but went on to run his consulting business until he (quite literally) unexpectedly dropped dead at 71.  For a long time it was a lifestyle choice that I didn't necessarily understand, but looking at Jean-Claude Biver's choices, I see a lot of my father's career track and practises in him.  If we look at the industry, it tends to attract a rather unique "type of dude" and it is safe to say that Mr. Biver now casts a very long, living shadow.  He has done some fairly impressive things, and enjoyed some phenomenal success.  And it is safe to say that he is considered the authority by many.  It is also noteworthy that part of the reason why he has remained engaged is because he has not been at the same place the entire time.  He had his apprenticeship, built Blancpain, moved to Omega, reinvented Hublot, stoked the hype machine at Tag-Heuer, and now is footloose and fancy free.  And if I were being honest, has succeeded everywhere with the exception of Zenith.  But as Chuck Yeager (played by Sam Shepard) said in The Right Stuff - "Sometimes you get a pooch that can't be screwed, ya' know?"  Zenith is a brand that is greatly admired by purists and journalists, but will probably never be greatly appreciated by the people who are actually needed to actually purchase it.  To quote two knuckle-headed retailers I was recently trapped on an overseas junket with:  "Yeah, it's a great brand, but I have almost no margin on it.  I have to keep discounting it at least 30, sometimes 40 percent."  Not exactly what you want to hear from two big time watch retailers, even if in real life it's hard to distinguish them 
from -

Courtesy of Wikipedia
3.  Let's be honest, we're talking about a shit-ton of money.  Yes, there are money managers out there who know all about finance.  But, there are also plenty of very successful people from other industries that got involved with the faux fame of the watch business and had their heads handed to them.  And for the record, I am definitely in the Billy Beane / Barry Hearn school of management/ownership.  You absolutely need passion, but you also need common sense and self-control.  And most importantly?  You need a person with some gravitas.  Jean-Claude Biver is probably never going to invite me to his chateau for dinner.  I will be shocked if I ever get any more of the famous Biver cheese (unless it is the batch that went off), and I don't think he and I are going to be sipping pastis while playing boules somewhere in the Luberon.  But whether he is going to win a Noble Peace Prize or not, he is probably the one person you would want as the face of your "takeover" if you were, just for the sake of discussion, taking over Patek Philippe.

So let's see. 
 

Until then?  

We are still waiting for Biver.

A Christmas Bonus

Well, we've been a bit behind schedule here at Tempus Fugit HQ owing to a fairly massive project that I have undertaken (more to come on that).  So I haven't really had a chance to even reflect too much on what Santa Claus brought me for Christmas.  In fact the coolest item under the tree did not come from a rotund fellow in a red suit with white trim.  No, in fact one of the coolest things that I received was a joint present from my work mates, the Executive Publisher and the Cub Reporter -


And I suppose it might have been a gentle hint to get back on the horse and write a bit more frequently, but I have to say it really hit my visceral buttons.  I have often waxed lyrical about Pelikan, and they make a very fine pen.  But I have to be honest, I am becoming more and more enamored with Kaweco!


This is the Kaweco Student 70 Soul Rollerball.  And it is the Witches Britches


It is wonderfully whimsical, reminiscent of the

Creamsicle® of my youth -
Courtesy of Popscicle
And that is perhaps what I have come to love so much about Kaweco.  Rather than pontificating and bloviating on how important, stately, iconic (insert other self-important language here) their pen brand is, Kaweco tends to focus on communicating just how much fun a pen can be.

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

Ultimately, while a pen can be a beautiful item, it is also a tool.  And more specifically?  A tool for communication.  And what I find so fascinating about Kaweco is the lengths that they go to help their retail partners communicate Kaweco's message.  Remember, a lot of people start out with the Kaweco Sport -

Courtesy of Kaweco
This is a pen that goes for a little north of US $20.  Think about that for a minute.  Whereas most retailers refuse to go anywhere near something that inexpensive, Kaweco has found a way to bridge the gap and not only support their retail partners with, let's face it, totally bitchin' point of sale displays, but to get the retail partners excited about it.  Consider this, when a young person first gets exposed to a fountain pen, it is a much easier bridge to purchase a Kaweco Sport, and get the feel of it.  This in turn leads to more Kaweco Sport models, and then, inevitably, to a higher end model.  And while there are other brands, if that first fountain pen kiss came from Kaweco, they have already established a relationship.  

So well done Kaweco!  I have and use SEVERAL of your Sport collection of varying colors, a few in metal, several in fun colorful splashes.  And I can say without fear or favor - if you are even into pens just a little bit?  Treat yourself!

Monday, January 14, 2019

Support Tempus Fugit and Get a Shirt!

Really simple - support Tempus Fugit by purchasing a $20 t-shirt (plus shipping).  Help support independent coverage of the watch industry, and get a pretty swell shirt into the bargain!


This fundraiser runs for 2 weeks only!

Get your Tempus Fugit T-shirt here:
                      Support Tempus Fugit!

Saturday, January 12, 2019

The 19.02 Worldtimer

From Ming -

Courtesy of Ming
This is the latest offering from the collaborative at Ming, the 19.03 Worldtimer.  It has been created in partnership with Manufacture Schwarz Etienne.

Courtesy of Ming
And as befits a watch with it's inspiration in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur holds pride of place on the dial's location chapter ring.  

A gradient sapphire dial sets off a truly stunning effect.  But this world-time machine is just as beautiful under the hood -

Courtesy of Ming
A wonderful confection of precision, a micro rotor automatic.

Courtesy of Ming
This is the latest offering from the collaborative at Ming, the 19.03 Worldtimer.  It has been created in partnership with Manufacture Schwarz Etienne.

Courtesy of Ming
And as befits a watch with it's inspiration in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 
  • Functions: hours and minutes, 24 hour world time, microrotor automatic winding
  • Case, dial & hands:
    • 39mm diameter, 11.2mm thickness, grade 5 titanium
    • Double box sapphire crystal with double-sided antireflective coating
    • Sapphire dial, radial gradient from opaque black to transparent
    • Chapter ring, logo and rear markings laser-etched into the sapphire crystals
    • Polished bezel and lugs; finely brushed caseband
    • Hands and dial ring with Superluminova X1
    • Rigid case without spacer rings
    • 50m water resistance
    • 20mm lug width
  • Movement:
    • Schwarz-Etienne for MING Cal. ASE220.1
    • Partial skeletonization with 5N rose gold coating and bead blasted bridges
    • Hand polished anglage
    • Hacking function
    • ~70 hour power reserve at full wind
    • Bidirectional automatic winding with high-mass tungsten microrotor
    • Movement adjusted to five positions
  • Straps:
    • Includes 2x calf leather straps by Jean Rousseau Paris
    • 20mm width, curved bars with quick release
    • All straps come fitted with signed stainless steel buckles
    • Will fit 160-210mm wrist circumference
  • Travel pouch:
    • Handmade in Kuala Lumpur from vegetable tanned natural leather
  • 1-year warranty against defects
  • Made in Switzerland
  • MING continually aims to improve aesthetics and functionality of products where possible; to this end we reserve the right to make changes prior to final delivery.
Now in fairness sports fans, this is not an inexpensive item.  Ming are offering an "early bird" incentive for pre-orders, and it is my understanding that in order for the project to be fully realized, enough pre-orders will need to be realized as well.  Should it be of interest to you, the purchase information can be found here:




 

Thursday, January 10, 2019

G-SHOCK x N. Hoolywood

.This just in from G-Shock -

Courtesy of G-Shock
This is a limited edition put out in collaboration with Japanese designer brand N. Hoolywood.  

Courtesy of G-Shock
Based on the DW5600, paired with a cloth strap.  Going for $160, and available at G-Shock online.

Courtesy of G-Shock


Sunday, January 6, 2019

Who Really Made Your Watch?

Or the myth of origin.

This is a topic that comes up frequently (but quietly) around Switzerland, Germany and China, but curious to relate?  Not so often in the US, UK, the EU, Russia... in other words?  The countries where a lot of watches are actually bought.

Now I know what you're probably thinking -
"Of course those 'micro-brands' aren't making their own watches!"   Well, in some cases you would be absolutely correct.  Simply put, a lot of microbrands out there utilize companies that specialize in "white label" or "private label" production.  Many are what we refer to as off the shelf - meaning it is a pretty standard case and you can dress it as you like.  There is a reason why there are so many Rolex Submariner lookalikes out there.  And hey, fair enough.  People want it and will pay for it.  And beyond that, there are several firms that will offer you the opportunity to send them your own designs, and will then subcontract with a case manufacturer, dial manufacturer and assembler in (you guessed it) China.  And that is most often the situation even for firms based in, wait for it, Germany and Switzerland.

Fair enough!  You might argue that these are small independent micro brands, so who cares?  Well, get on any Facebook watch group or the dwindling number of watch forums still grinding it out, and you will find plenty of armchair experts ready to hold forth, and they DO care.  And these folks are experts because, like, they read other forums and can speak with absolute authority...

Well, I get it.  Passion is important.  And as they used to say back in the 70s and 80s as they were trying to convince us that illiteracy was not necessarily cool - RIF!  (Reading is Fundamental).  But having spent hundreds of hours moderating a brand forum (hours that I will never get back), I came to understand that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.  Why?  Half smart is the same thing as half dumb.  So as a public service announcement, I thought it might not be such a bad idea to shed a little light on the reality of who really made the watch you are wearing.

So what does it mean to "make" a watch?  Well, that again is up for interpretation, but if we look loosely at the rules, one of the basic premises is that the watch itself is assembled in the country reputed to be the one of "origin".  Well, that is pretty easy to achieve.  You can ship things here, there and everywhere.  But then the next question comes down to content origin.  And very often, that is something that is even more flexible than the ethics of several people working in the watch industry itself.  Consider that a case can be "started" somewhere else, be shipped within the "circle of trust" and be "finished" in Switzerland or Germany.  And Hallelujah!  It's a Swiss or German case!  And that is just regarding the brands that actually bother to try and at least appear to be following the rules.  And then we get to movements.  That is more often than not a critical factor in the "origin story".  I mean, a SWISS movement is a SWISS movement, right?  Well... yes and no.  It goes without saying that several movement companies have subsidiaries and subcontractors in countries where rice is more common at meal time than Rösti ; )

So chances are good, that your Swiss or German watch has a whole bunch of stuff sourced from other places.  Okay, but then surely these BIG brands have clean, pristine, SWISS or German factories where all of these disparate parts are assembled under the watchful eyes of the brand!  Well, actually, not so much.

As another great Ohioan said about the "confidence" he felt when dealing with contractors and subcontractors (attributed to John Glenn):

"I felt exactly how you would feel if you were getting ready to launch and knew you were sitting on top of 2 million parts — all built by the lowest bidder on a government contract." 

 

But suffice it to say, John Glenn made it back to Earth and NASA continued and we landed people on the moon and brought them back.  So surely using a contractor or subcontractor is not the worst thing in the world.  And perhaps the most significant (yet unheard of) part of the Swiss industry is the "assembly" sector.  Their role is pretty simple:

Brand A designs a watch.  They contact the assembler.  The assembler then subcontracts with the various component "contributors" and gets examples of cases, dials, crowns, straps and knocks together "samples".  Samples are reviewed, tweaked, and designs are finalized.  Orders are submitted (not paid for, but that is a story for another day) and once everything reaches the assembler, they are assembled.  I have been to a few of these places - NO NAMES - and I can tell you that this is not an horological urban myth.  You will see about 10 - 30 different brands being assembled side by side.  Well known brands that you have heard of.  And I can also tell you that very large as well as very small brands use them.  Even brands that are owned by larger groups.  Ever wonder why you never see journalists waxing lyrical about their visits to various brand factories?  Well as Anthony Bourdain once said:
"Can't believe it's not butter?  Well I can!".   Pals and gals, let's be real here for a moment, if a brand will spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on ambassadors, advertising, and press junkets to watch God knows what, you think that they wouldn't show you a factory if they had one?  Yes, just like when you heard that the Tooth Fairy, Easter Bunny and Santa were, in fact, your parents, I am sorry to harsh your mellow.

So there it is.  And if you think I'm wrong, let me ask you a pretty simple question -
Assuming that a Swiss brand's watch is, in fact, made in Switzerland, how do you think that this might be economically possible?  Let me give you a "for instance".  Ever buy a cup of coffee in Switzerland?  Buy lunch?  Pay rent in Switzerland?  Putting it simply, it is not an inexpensive place to live.  Now let me ask the question in a different way - do you think it is more expensive to make coffee, or to make a watch?  This is more of a way of asking this - how is it possible that a company can afford to make watches that they put a suggested retail price of $1,000?  Let's drill down further - consider that at an SRP of $1,000 in most cases the watch was produced and sold to a distributor for 1/3 of that amount.  Now think about that for a minute.  That means that they sold it for 33.3% or $333 of the retail and were still MAKING MONEY on that deal.  Okay, so let's say that means that, ideally, they are making at least 75% of that 33.3% (i.e. 25% labor and cost) - meaning about $250.  So that means that it cost the company $83 (more or less) to make that watch.  Again, nothing wrong with that, but it is pretty simple economics.  There is no way that watch was "made in Switzerland", regardless of the semantics in use.  

So what if?

What if a company, regardless of whether they were big or small, made a watch where they told you exactly where everything came from?  Although he can be a bit of a pill and a celebrity chaser, Beat Weinmann has embraced this concept and he and ochs und junior produce a watch that can be sourced down to the last detail, and they are to be commended for it.  But you will pay a price for this, and I think it is a fair one, but let's just say it is a wee bit north of that $1,000 we were bandying about in our earlier model.

And therefore I am wondering, is there a way to offer a REALLY good mechanical watch - nothing earth shattering, but solid, reliable, good looking and comfortable, and do it for a price that normal people could afford without going into unrealistically aspirational credit card debt?  And that you could do it while clearly labeling the source of origin?

Well, stay tuned!