More Than Meets The Eye

Courtesy of Casio

So I have to be completely honest, I was never that into the whole Transformers thing in recent cinema releases.  And to be even more honest about it, I was never into the toy range.  In fairness I come from a different, slightly older generation.

For many of us, it was Speed Racer and Ultraman.  And yes, I know that there were limited edition G-Shocks for both of my boyhood obsessions, but yet again I was at the tail end of the conga line-

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-web

But you can't live in the past, so let's live in the present!

Courtesy of Casio

This is the G-Shock Limited Edition  DW6900TF-SET and it is DOPE!

Obviously, the watch portion is important, it is the DW6900 which is completely digital, no analog.  Here are the pertinents -

Shock-resistant
 
200 meters water resistant
 
1/100 second; measuring capacity: (0’00''00~59’59''99) for the first 60 minutes, (1:00’00~23:59’59) after 60 minutes

Measuring unit: 1/100 seconds (for the first 60 minutes), 1 second (after 60 minutes), split time

Measuring unit: 1 second; countdown range: 24 hours; countdown start time setting range: 1 second to 24 hours (1-second increments), auto-repeat

Multi-function alarm: hourly time signal

But let's be honest with ourselves, the reason why this limited edition is the SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS is the fact that it comes in a fully functioning Transformer action figure!

(IMPORTANT Editor's Note, it is an ACTION FIGURE! it is not a "toy", it is not a "doll"!)

Courtesy of Casio

And as big a fan of my friend Robert-Jan Broer as I am and as wonderful as I (honestly) think his Speedy Tuesday collaborations are, I am a teacher / social worker by day, and my collecting desires need to be based in real-world economic realities.  And at $350, it is within this educator's modest reach.

Courtesy of G-Shock

So once again, thank you G-Shock for reminding me about why I love watches as much as I do, and please ask the folks at the boutique to put one aside for me, I have my card ready!

 

Shut Up and Make Watches! Why You Should Buy A NOMOS

Courtesy of NOMOS

Business is a funny thing.  And the watch business can be downright hilarious.  And part of the current comedy (in my eyes) is a stance taken by NOMOS of Glashütte to try and bring some calm, logical discussion to a very tense, very confrontational, and a downright illogical situation.

NOMOS has taken the rather serious step of actually COMMUNICATING with their employees about the current political climate in East Germany, particularly Saxony.  Curious to relate, in reading and hearing about it thousands of miles away, it is a situation that could just as easily be taking place here in the US.  And in some places it is.

Let's start off with some of the basics:

1.   In recent times, the AfD (Alternative for Germany) has grown in popularity in the former East Germany, particularly in Glashütte, where Britain's Independent noted in a related article that upwards of 1/3 of the local residents voted for the AfD.  (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/indyventure/east-german-nomos-glashuette-racism-far-right-afd-a8621611.html)  

2.  NOMOS felt compelled to take action to clearly identify where they, as a company, stood.  In one instance putting up a banner outside their headquarters stating:
“We are ticking internationally” 

3.  But then NOMOS took things a step further, and began offering workshops designed to raise awareness as to the potential pitfalls of blindly following a particular ideology.  And they are to be commended for actually seeking out experts in the area and bringing in Courage, an organization based in Dresden, to offer these sessions.

SHUT UP AND DRIBBLE
(or shut up and make watches, but the meaning is much the same).
So that's the background.  But now let's get back to the comedy portion of our program.  And that is the coverage of my colleagues who write about watches in both the fourth and fifth estate, or more specifically the lack thereof.  Let's just say with a few exceptions, it's been crickets.  And that is really a shame. You do not have to agree with the stand that NOMOS has taken, but it is news.  And it is infinitely more worthy of your attention and coverage than covering a horse race in Kentucky, the launch of a new SWATCH in Shanghai, or who wore what on the red carpet.  Really?  Who gives a shit?!?  Oh, that's right!  The person writing the check in the PR office of brand X!

I would like to share a video put out by Caseback Watches on YouTube, as this was one of the few people apparently willing to weigh in -




The beauty of being independent, is that you can act independently.  And I will throw my lot in with NOMOS on this one.  NOMOS is to be commended not just for making a statement of principles.  That would be easy enough.  But with these in house sessions facilitated by Courage, they are working to create an environment where their employees will feel safe, valued, and appreciated, regardless of where they come from.  This is more than just creating a mission statement, I mean let's be honest, just about every organization has one.  But with their commitment, NOMOS is living their values.  And while it is easy to say "big deal, it's just one company!", well, that's how every great movement starts, one person, one group at a time.

I have reached out to the folks at NOMOS for further comment and for more background, and promise to report it all without fear or favor.

As I've said in the past, a brand is not just a name, a history, a latest model, a paid celebrity ambassador.  A brand is, most of all, the people who work there.  And I suppose that I am idealistically naive, but I tend to spend my money (particularly money on the things that I don't necessarily need) on things made by people that stand for something beyond just a quick profit.  

And owing to their living values, NOMOS will be my next watch purchase, as these are values I champion myself.  And no, I won't shut up and write about watches.

The Quai des Bergues 25ter HRH Series ‘001’

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

Limited to five pieces and created to help support the Duke of Edinburgh International Award.

Courtesy of Czapek

Here are the pertinents -

Functions

• Hours, Minutes & Seconds
• Small second at 7h30
• Power reserve indication with weekdays at 4h30

Movement

• Calibre SXH1: Haute Horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement
• Power-reserve > 168 hours (7 days) on 2 barrel-springs
• Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 VpH
• Diameter: 32 mm – 14 lines ¼
• Height: 4.75 mm
• Finish: double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges, blue screws, bevelling, final anglage main

Hands

• “Fleur de lys“ hands in blue gold

Case & Bracelet

• Exclusive XO stainless steel “Revolution” case
• Exclusive case concept with the crown-protections integrated into the stretcher
• 42.5 mm diameter
• Curved Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
• Water-resistance: 50 meters (5 atm)
• Alligator strap with XO steel pin buckle

Dial

• Grand-feu enamel dial with a secret signature “Czapek”
• The Royal Cypher and the bird of The Duke of Edinburgh's International Award Foundation logo hand painted with the micropainting technique at 12h
• Elongated Roman numerals, symbol of the Czapek elegance

Pre-Thanksgiving Leftovers

This piece first ran back in January.  I have had a bit of time to reflect on it, on the way the industry is moving and the continued pursuit of ideas that simply don't work.  I go on a few press junkets per year.  As I have a day job making the world safe for students to go to college, I am not on the "full-time circuit" that many of my more pampered colleagues travel.  I despise horse racing owing to the high number of horse casualties each year, so I am not weeping about not being on the Longines "go-to-guest-list".  I also work for a growing number of brands as a consultant and therefore appreciate time, effort and expense that a brand goes through to set such things up.  It is not a simple endeavor.  Long hours, too much hand-holding, little to no personal time, and you are always "on".

Press junkets can be fun, and by and large they give you a unique opportunity to bond with brand insiders and get a better understanding as to what makes them tick.  And when you are traveling together with other journalists, retailers and North American staff, you are somewhat trapped in a mobile "summer camp" of sorts.  And you get to see the good, the bad and the... well, not so attractive side of things.  But what continues to fascinate me is the obsessive need to follow shiny objects.  By that I mean the unfailingly understanding that if "influencer X" tells you that they are the "Dog's testicles", by golly you'll believe it!

While I am by no means a "lifer" in the watch game, I do feel that I can honestly say I have been to the city and I have seen the rodeo.  And there are a handful of people who are the real deal in terms of communication, knowledge, belief and appreciation.

Mike Pearson - Brand Evangelist Extraordinaire.  This guy could probably go to the Middle East and solve the crisis in an afternoon.  He is that friendly, that engaging, that engaged, and that passionate.  Any brand with any sense should be picking up the phone and trying to hire him.

Another Mike - Mike Margolis.  A man who proved that passion and commitment actually do count for something.

Manon Vauthier - A true loss to the watch world, she flew the flag for Eterna and Porsche Design, often single handed. The watch world's loss is the real world's gain.  Since leaving the world of horological communication she is doing amazing things by all accounts.

Xavier Markl - Someone who actually took the time to listen to everyone - from the small to the mighty.  GP would be a lot better off if he were still there, but sometimes companies have to learn the hard way.

Dan Lewis - Of all the people I have met in the industry, I have to say that Dan is someone I always look forward to seeing.  Honest, kind, patient, and someone I am truly proud to call my friend.

In many ways, these folks are the old guard.  Which seems weird because many of them came up at the same time as me.  Many have moved on to other things, a few are still there and in many ways demonstrating what can be right about the watch business.  

I guess I've gone on about the good, now let's re-heat the "not-so-good".

Happy Thanksgiving!

Influencer

This continues to be a hot topic, and it will continue to be so long as brand CEOs, managers and marketing folks keep dipping into the till to pay off popular boys and girls in the hopes of being relevant to the Millennial demographic. 

It has now seeped so far into the public awareness that various sources beyond the Urban Dictionary are defining it.

noun

1A person or thing that influences another.

‘he was a champion of the arts and a huge influencer of taste’

‘genetic factors are key influencers of your metabolic rate’

‘Frank's been a teacher and cultural influencer for years’

1.1Marketing A person with the ability to influence potential buyers of a product or service by promoting or recommending the items on social media.

‘influencers can add serious credibility to your brand’

Ultimately, brands will push the envelope as far as they can until the FTC or the public at large gets tired of the never-ending game of Manchurian Candidate Kabuki theater that is the "influencer trade".  It is false, it is deceptive and it is manipulative.  And I would like to think that the powers that be could be a little less disingenuous (lacking in frankness, candor, or sincerity; falsely or hypocritically ingenuous; insincere: Her excuse was rather disingenuous.).

But I'd like to propose that the guys and gals writing the checks at HQ consider a different way to go about this whole influencer thing.  Now back at the turn of the century, there were a few people out there who were influencers before such a thing existed.  And they did it in a way that was honest, forthright, and understandable.

While it is very true that Hublot became a sensation through the tireless work of Jean-Claude Biver, there was another guy who made Hublot and its story his passion, which then became his career.  While Mr. Biver can be thought of as the father of Hublot, in many ways Mr. Margolis is the American uncle.  This did not simply happen because Mr. Margolis demanded several thousand dollars to feature Hublot in his communication.  It happened because Mike was passionate about Hublot, and his passion was contagious.  And here is the key thing - YES - he became an employee of Hublot - but that did not make his passion any less real, or his communication any less honest.  In many ways it did just the opposite.  It was a way of saying - yes, I work for these folks but I'm also a fan.  And I am going to go to every event, pour coffee, shake hands and kiss babies to spread the word because I believe in it.  

It is safe to say that in many ways Mike was the prototypical brand evangelist for the watch industry.   And I think that is the way many watch buyers and fans would like to see things evolve.  

An instafamous influencer is a gun for hire.  While they may appear in a brand's SIHH video with other instafamous influencers, they will then turn around and cash the check for yet another brand to feature them in their social media feeds.  So if you bought brand X based on the desire to be like them, you will then not be like them in next week's instagram feed ; )

Guy Kawasaki became Apple's evangelist.  And in his way he did as much (and in some cases more) than Steve Jobs in spreading the good word.

At a time where things are in flux, the industry does not need more bullshit.  It needs more transparency.  And it needs some sincere people who are truly passionate about what they are promoting, not merely bottom feeding for the next instafamous check.

Bring back the evangelists!

The Kiu Tai Yu Tribute

From Pellikaan Timing -

Courtesy of Pellikaan Timing

A seeming lifetime ago, I met Hubert Pellikaan wandering through the halls of the Palace at BaselWorld.  He had started working on his brand, Pellikaan Timing and I had the opportunity to check out his initial effort.


Needless to say, time has moved forward, and I thought I'd check out where things were now, and discovered the Kiu Tai Yu Tribute (above).  In fairness, this might be one you've seen already, but I think it's pretty cool, so in case you missed it -

Courtesy of Pellikaan Timing

The case is stainless steel, the movement is ETA's 2892A2, but the real star of the show is the dial.  It is DOPE!

This is an "off the menu" item, so should you be so inclined, you will need to contact Mr. Pellikaan to do so.  The price as I understand it is 1,690 Euro.

Here are the pertinents -

Automatic winding
- Readings: hours/minutes/seconds (with hack function), date
- Size: 40mm diameter, height 9,5 mm, strap 22 mm
- Movement: ETA 2892A2 soignee
- Power reserve: 38 hours
- Waterdicht 5atm / 50 meter
- Breguet hands
- Creme and phosphorising red dial with Mandarin numerals
- Sapphire crystals on front and back
- Standard black alligator leather strap and additional black nylon NATO strap

The Blue Shark II

From DELMA -

Courtesy of Delma

In a continuing effort to share things that might be flying just beneath your radar, this is another item from DELMA.

A true diver, boasting a water resistant to 3,000 meters or 9,900 feet.  Let's hope it doesn't come to that ; )

The stainless steel case measures 47 mm in diameter, so it is definitely not a shrinking violet.  Under the hood is the ETA 2824-2, with the usual hours, minutes, seconds and date at 3 o'clock. 

But apart from the super-diver bona-fides, I have to say that I just really dig the color combination.  Definitely not the staid black and white, or slightly less over-used blue and white.  This one is a little different, for those who are ready to embrace it.

Here are the pertinents -

Case Diameter	47 mm
Case height	19.5 mm
Case Material	Stainless steel
Case Back	Stainless steel
Weight	295 g
Bezel	Unidirectional stainless steel black PVD diving bezel
Crystal	Sapphire crystal
Crown	Stainless steel, screw down crown with Delma crown
Dial	Blue, applied Arabic numerals with Luminous
Hands	Orange hour, minute and seconds hands with Luminous
Date Window	Date at 3H
Bracelet	Solid stainless steel
Water Resistant	300 ATM / 3000 meters / 9900 ft

The New Glamour Double Date from Tudor

Some new Tudor models have dropped, and apart from the naming convention (I just don't get the collection name of "Glamour", but maybe that's just me), I do think they have come up with something pretty cool.

Courtesy of Tudor

 It is available in either steel and gold (above and below) -

Courtesy of Tudor

And stainless steel  -

Courtesy of Tudor

Such as this one (above) which is my personal favorite in this new collection.  It is a wonderfully understated piece, offering a watch that will be desirable for more than just one Instagram cycle.  

The case measures 42 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel.  The movement is Calibre MT5641 which is a manufacture movement, with the COSC blessing.  It is a bidirectional (rotor), automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, with an advertised power reserve of 70 hours.  Available in three different dial colors, with our without "bling" (diamond indices), with a bracelet or strap, and in either steel & gold, or steel.

Now the challenge was, and will continue to be, how to break out of the "Tudor as Tough Guy" watch idea that has been the unfortunate byproduct of the popularity of the Black Bay divers.  Yes they are nice, clearly they are popular, but they have planted a (false) seed in the minds of bloggers, influencers and journalists (both small and mighty), that Tudor is only about dive watches.  The Advisor, the Ranger, and others offer quite a bit more especially in terms of value for money.  The challenge that retailers face is that all too often, the demand is for the dive watches, and the other pieces become a bit of a "heavy lift" for the retail outlets.  But I have faith that Tudor might be on the right course!  Let us hope, because we waited a LONG time to get Tudor here, I personally want to see it grow and grow strong.

About Passion

Yesterday I had the truly great pleasure of sharing some tacos and talking about watches, design, and, well, life with Ian Schon of Schon Horology.  Lunch tip from your old pal Henki - if you find yourself within hailing distance of Boston University/Boston College, go check out Lonestar Taco Bar in Allston, MA.  It is well worth it!

Nobody Hates Tacos!

When you think about, talk about, and inevitably write about watches, pens and fashion on the daily, things start to get a bit bland.  And in an effort at total transparency, I had not heard of Mr. Schon before a few weeks ago.  Or, that is to say, I had, but I had forgotten.  During the summer months I tagged along with a fairly talented group of cyclists on Saturday morning rides, and the inevitable "what do you do for work" conversation came up.  And one of the ride organizers said that she knew a guy who had designed watches and was now making pens.  I was intrigued, and filed it away.  It wasn't until a few weeks ago that John Keil (Watch Gauge) told me about these amazing pens that he had seen in New York at a show recently -

Courtesy of Schon DSGN

Well, a little digging and I found that the pen maker and the watch "designer" were one in the same!

Courtesy of Schon

After living my own version of "M.T.A." Just call me "Charlie"!  But in this instance I am happy to say that although waylaid beyond belief, I finally made it to Allston and got to see the show (luckily, I had the extra nickel).

And the watches are something truly special -

As special as the watches and pens are (and they are), if I am honest, I found the designer / manufacturer to be one of the most quietly passionate people I have met in this industry in quite some time.  His enthusiasm is infectious!   So we will be going deeper shortly, but this is your wake-up call!  Stay tuned!

Belville 1892

So before you say it, yes the Kickstarter Rule is still in place.  I will not write about a watch pre-Kickstarter or mid-Kickstarter.  UNLESS...

I've had a chance to see it, touch it, and wear it in real life.  And in this case, I had the opportunity to have an advance look (and wearing) of two of the Kickstarter pieces.

Courtesy of Belville

Of the two, this one was my favorite.  This is one of the two Royal Hill variations with hours, minutes, seconds and date.  Under the hood is Miyota's 821A automatic.  The case measures 40 mm in diameter, made of 316L stainless steel with a gold PVD finish.

The dial is a deep blue and the sunray finish.  This is elegant, legible and timeless.  And yes, I want one, and I suspect many people out there want one as well.  

The Kickstarter starts later today, but if you want to dig a little deeper, and you are "Facebook fluent", you can dig in for more information here -

https://www.facebook.com/belville1892/

As near as I can tell, the goal of Belville is to offer a well made, beautiful watch at a great price.  The Kickstarter prices will be even better, but even at the proposed retail price, it is a well priced watch for people who want something a bit special, but perhaps don't have $1,000. 

So the Kickstarter will go live today, there will be a few other choices, but for me, this one is my favorite.

 

It's Growing On Me

Now I see A LOT of watches, and this past BaselWorld I got my first look at some of the Ming watches.  As a reminder, Ming is a collaboration among six watch enthusiasts, one of whom was kind enough to let me in on the story, and see the product up close and personal.

Courtesy of Ming

The thing is, the Ming collection are at once recognizable without being "knowable", and I realize that is a bit of a contradiction in terms.  What I mean is that in a short span of time, Ming has been able to develop a design grammar that is clear, distinct, and not derivative.  Without massive, obnoxious branding, PR noise, or logos screaming at you, you instantly recognize the Ming.  And that is something that should be celebrated! 

Courtesy of Ming

So at the risk of sounding sentimental, or just that old, cranky fart who waxes on about substance over style...

This is special.  This is the Ming 17.03 GMT with burgundy dial.

And although I know that a black dial is more practical, I am pretty dippy over the burgundy.  

One last point regarding the GMT function.  This is actually a pleasantly subtle, yet practical display.  I like it, and I want one.  So there you have it.

Should you be so inclined, this time machine is very, very reasonably priced at 1,300 CHF.  And it is available direct from Ming.

Here are the pertinents -

• Functions: hours, minutes, and additional 24h timezone on inner ring
• Case, dial & hands:
• 38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, grade 2 titanium case with solid caseback, all brushed
• 43.9mm lug to lug measurement
• Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides
• Rigid case without spacer rings
• 100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling
• Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial 
• Patterned burgundy dial
• Hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1
• Dial ring printed with Super-LumiNova C1
• Straps
• 1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching
• 1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching
• 20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting
• Will fit 160-210mm (6.1”-8.3”) wrist circumference
• Signed pin buckle in brushed grade 2 titanium
• Movement:
• Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade
• 42-hour power reserve
• 28,800 bph (4Hz)
• 25 jewels
• Hacking function
• Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
• Watch with a strap weighs 49g
• 1-year warranty against defects
• Made in Switzerland
• Delivery package includes two nubuck straps with buckles fitted (dark chocolate/ anthracite), a travel pouch by Thirtyfour Bespoke of Kuala Lumpur, and a screwdriver for bracelet adjustment

 

The Yachtingraf Croisiere (Heritage)

From Yema -

Courtesy of Yema

We continue on with some of the new vintage inspired horological goodness being offered by the newly energized Yema, this is the next up.  It is singularly cool, and yes, you want this!

This is, in the big Yema picture, a member of Yachtingraf collection.  The majority of the collection being far more affordable quartz pieces.  This one is a bit special.

Courtesy of Yema

Limited to 1948 pieces total, this chronograph is also a regatta start timer function at 3 o'clock.   But beyond that?  This thing just looks so DOPE!

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 15.35 mm
Lug: 19 mm
316L stainless steel

BEZEL
316L steel bidirectional with black insert graduated in 
120 divisions
 
CROWN
Crown with double seal "O" ring

CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal (2,00 mm thick)

WATER RESISTANCE
10 BAR / 100 m

MOVEMENT
 
CALIBER
Valjoux 7753 - ETA Swiss Manufacture

MOVEMENT
Automatic
60 seconds chronograph

FUNCTIONS
3 counters
Regatta start timer (countdown)
60 seconds counter
12/24 hour counter

POWER RESERVE
44 hours

DIAL
Black 
3 o'clock and 6 o'clock white sub-dials 
9 o'clock black sub-dial

MARKERS
Super-Luminova C3
 
STRAP
Made in France by a Bisontine manufacture, 
Perforated vegetable tanned leather strap

BAPE and Bell & Ross

Mixed emotions about this one, not going to lie.  This is a collaboration between Bell & Ross and Japanese street wear brand BAPE.  A collection of 2 limited editions.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The THE BR03-92 25TH ANNIVERSARY is offered with both a black rubber strap (below) and a Bape grey camo® calfskin strap (above).

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

It is limited to 25 pieces total.  Here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case: 42 mm in diameter. Matt black ceramic.
Dial: matte black. Hands, numerals and indices coated in Superluminova®C3.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Straps: black rubber with APE® logo and Bape grey camo® calfskin

Buckle: pin buckle. Black PVD.


The other model in this release is the THE BR03-92 GREEN CAMO -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Limited to 100 pieces, this one comes just with the rubber strap, but a camouflage dial.

Here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case: 42 mm in diameter. Matt black ceramic.
Dial: Bape green camo®. Hands, numerals and indices coated in white Superluminova®.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Straps: black rubber with APE® logo and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle: pin buckle. Black PVD.

The Superman Heritage

From Yema -

Courtesy of Yema

Yes, Yema!  In a total shift to a concept that I personally REALLY like, Yema is now offering a so-called Heritage collection.  Very few SKUs, very beautiful, desirable watches.  This is a particularly nifty one, the Superman Heritage.  Now to be clear, Yema is also offering some other versions of the Superman that are a bit less expensive (more to come on that), but this one is really special.

Courtesy of Yema

You will note a slightly aged look to the lume.  That is a touch that I really, really like.  So much about a watch and whether you like it or not is visceral.  And this one was a visceral sucker punch that I did not see coming.

Now this one has been out for awhile, so clearly Tempus Fugit is at the end of this particular conga line -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

This is a faithful reproduction, right down to the legendary Yema bezel lock -

Courtesy of Yema

This is THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

A solid case back, stainless steel bracelet, this is the business.

Priced very fairly at $949 US with standard mineral crystal, $1,099 with a sapphire one.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 14 mm
Lug: 19 mm
 
CASE
316L stainless steel
 
BEZEL
316L steel unidirectional with black insert graduated in 120 divisions
Bezel with lock mechanism at 3 o'clock

CROWN
Screw-down crown
 
CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal with light magnifying lens effect for better dial readability
2.60 mm thickness
 
WATER RESISTANCE
30 BAR / 990 Feet / 300 m

MOVEMENT

CALIBER
ETA 2824-2 Standard 
Self winding with ball bearings rotor
25 Rubies
28 800 A/h

MOVEMENT 
Automatic

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, seconds

POWER RESERVE
38 hours
 
DATE
Date at 3 o'clock

DIAL
Vintage black dial
Minute/Seconds track consisting of 60 white marks
 
MARKERS
Round hour markers
Triangular marker at 12 o'clock (luminescent zero mark)
Super-LumiNova

BRACELET

FINISHING
Light-weighting fine steel with brushed effect

CLASP
Diver's extension folding clasp with minted Yema vintage logo 
316L stainless steel

 



 

Wrapping Up the Draken Kalahari

Okay, some reviews go longer than others, and this is a case in point.  After much time, and trial, I am pleased to say that I have finally completed my review of the Draken Kalahari.  I also wanted to hold off a wee bit to get closer to the delivery date of the watch to the customers who have already ordered.  So for those of you who have ordered, or may order shortly, my understanding is that the delivery date is mid-December (a little over a month from now).

So a little prologue, I was fortunate enough to meet the man behind Draken (Michael Blythe) at the District Time show back in September.  He had made his way over from New Zealand for the show.  In point of fact, he is a transplant, originally hailing from South Africa (if I have understood the chronology correctly).  And this, in part, is what inspired the name of this watch - the Kalahari.

Courtesy of Draken

The Kalahari has an internal rotating bezel which is adjustable by way of the lower (4 o'clock) screw down crown.  This allows for a second timezone.  What I have found with some of the other watches with this feature is a bit of "slippage", meaning that the crown is a little sloppy, not really engaging correctly and the internal bezel does not correctly align.  Obviously, this is down to manufacturing, and at least in so far as the model that I reviewed, the crown engages cleanly, and the internal bezel sets precisely.  It is graduated in 12 hour segments as opposed to 24, so it also allows you to use for a timing countdown if that is your preference.

The watch case is 44 mm in diameter, and of stainless steel with a DLC (Diamond Like Coating) treatment.  This seems to be pretty much the way that the industry is going, so PVD is rapidly disappearing in the rear view mirror of the watch making world.  Now what I think sets the Kalahari apart is the clear devotion to utilizing this finish for every imaginable aspect of this watch.  Obviously the main case and bezel -

but also...

The caseback...

 
The crowns...

And even the buckle!

All too often, the finish level of these secondary items is somewhat lacking. But in the case of the Draken Kalahari, it was very, very well done.

The crystal is sapphire, the inner side treated with an anti-glare coating.  

The movement is a Seiko NE57.  This is an automatic movement and in this configuration provides a power reserve function that is ingeniously displayed via an inner disc that seemingly floats above the main dial.  This offers a really cool level of depth and texture to the overall face of the watch.  The indicator goes from red to black as it stores power.

In addition to hours, minutes, seconds (central), the aforementioned power reserve indicator, there is a small date indicator at the 5 o'clock position.  The number at the red arrow is the day's date.

In this instance, it is the 8th.  The movement itself ran true and steady.  I also commend the decision to utilize a solid case back rather than the cheap and all too easy decision that is often taken to use a display back for a watch that is really meant for wear and tear rather than looking at (in most cases) an unfinished movement.  So well done Draken!

The dial is described as sand, and it is a very soothing color choice.  The black indices hand hand outlines and red indicator and second hand are wonderful choices as they pop visually without looking vulgar.

The strap is canvas with a leather lining, attached with a quick release spring bar.  The strap was comfortable and sensibly sized, neither too long or too short.  To quote that other great commentator on watches, Goldilocks:  "It was just right".

The fit of the watch was good, and it was quite comfortable to wear.  Now it does bear mentioning that the lug to lug length is 51.3 mm, which for some is going to be a bit longer (and therefore, bigger) than they are comfortable with, but for me it was a nice fit.

All in all, it was a great watch to review, and at the price (currently listed on the Draken site at $479), you get a lot of bang for the buck.

Here are the pertinents, direct from Draken -

Case	316L stainless steel, 44mm diameter, 22mm lugs, 51.3mm lug to lug
Movement	Seiko NE57 automatic
Crystal	Sapphire with inner anti-reflective coating
Strap	Genuine leather or canvas with leather lining, 22mm buckle, quick-release pins, length 80mm and 125mm
Water resistance	100m