Icarus Revisited

Point of full disclosure -

I made the decision over a year ago not to cover Bremont.  Those reasons are my own, the folks at Bremont know what they are - we keep a respectful distance from each other at BaselWorld and JCK.  I am writing about Bremont and the recent events below, but I want to be clear that in writing this post this evening, I will only be writing about the events of the past week or so.  Nothing more, nothing less.

Now for most of the folks who read the various forums, blogs, etc. the news of Bremont's recent misadventure have been aired-out for all and sundry to see.  In all fairness, this is something that even befell the mighty Tag Heuer. And for those of you just tuning in, here are the "basics":

With a great deal of hoopla (and to quote the late, great Mr. Plimpton), ballyhoo, Bremont announced, and formally released their latest limited edition - the Wright Flyer.  Bremont went so far as to say that this would be a doubly great release as the watch would house Bremont's… wait for it… first "in house" or "manufacture" movement - the BWC/01.  

But a funny thing happened on the way to the release.  Word started to swirl on a certain UK based watch forum asserting that Bremont's new "in house" movement was about as English as Napoleon.  This got people talking, talking led to doubt, doubt led to assumption - and unfortunately for Bremont - the assumptions in the end were proven to be true.

Essentially, what Bremont had placed in the new Wright Flyer was a movement that had been designed and manufactured by that well-known British brand….La Joux-Perret, and the caliber BWC/01 turned out to be, in fact, the La Joux-Perret caliber 6901.

And here is where, at least for me, the rubber met the road.  

Bremont's first response was that a disgruntled employee (former or current, we may never know, but a sort of "Boris Badenov" type) had absconded with the "blueprints".  And frankly, whether this was true or not, I find this to be a bit disingenuous.  It's a bit of "the dog ate my homework".  

A few days passed, more "chatter" filled the blogs and forums, and Bremont informed us that an important message (i.e. response) was coming.  And much like celebrities will turn to Oprah to regain their standing in terms of favorable public opinion, Bremont was featured on a video produced by Hodinkee.  And in fairness to Hodinkee, their role was simply to give Bremont an opportunity to share their side of the story - and Hodinkee is to be applauded for that.  Hodinkee in many ways sets the standards for the rest of us, and their diligent follow-up to the story is a good example of why they are so well (and deservedly) respected.

And the second "much awaited" response from the "good-looking English brother" essentially was not unlike Hugh Grant batting his eyelashes after getting caught with a call-girl.  By golly, he sure looked and sounded earnest.  If you have not had a chance to view the video, you can do so by visiting Hodinkee and viewing it here:

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/video-bremont-co-founder-nick-english-responds-to-questions-about-new-movement


Pals and gals, let me speak plainly - Mr. English's explanation of  "We were naive" in terms of understanding the "terminology" of what exactly a "manufacture" movement meant was…
CODSWALLOP!  American translation - I'm calling bullshit.

Giles and Nick English did not just fall off of the turnip truck, and for them to say that the "poop-storm" that they are currently navigating is a matter of "semantics" is beyond the credulous.  

1.  They announced a new release of a watch that contained an "in house movement" that they warranted to be:
In House

2.  Word leaked out that said movement was indeed manufactured "in house", but that the "house" in question was one time zone and several countries away.  A country where the "house meal" was more likely to be fondue as opposed to shepherd's pie.

3.  They offered up a video that really managed to do even more damage to the notion that this was all an honest misunderstanding.  Essentially saying "You misunderstood us, and it's not our fault because golly, all this watch language stuff is so confusing".  


Now in fairness to Bremont, it is very clear that there was someone out there on a few forums and blogs working intently to do them and their business very real harm.  I think we can all agree that is a shitty thing to do and should call into question the veracity of the person's claims.  Sadly, the claims that the movement was not, in fact created (designed, crafted, etc.) by Bremont turned out to be true.


But ultimately watch fans, it is up to you.  I'm not buying it, but in fairness that feedback and a few bucks will get you a cup of coffee!

Enjoy your watches - and don't believe everything you read  ;  )

STOP THE PRESS!!! UN will be Joining...

Kering!  It would seem that we are temporarily out of the doldroms!

This just came in, and I called for confirmation.  Kering, who presently hold Girard-Perregaux, JEANRICHARD, Gucci, Boucheron - and a personal family favorite - DODO, have acquired Ulysse Nardin!

Now in and of itself this is huge, but there are some extra little sub-plots of interest to those of you obsessed with inner-workings, ins and outs -

this means (most likely) that it is conceivable that ochs und junior (and with it Ludwig Oechslin), might be coming along for the ride.  Obviously a lot of the minutia remains to be sifted, but for now, here is the press release from Kering -



Kering acquires the haute horlogerie brand Ulysse Nardin 
∞ An innovative watchmaking business built on outstanding tradition and 
manufacturing expertise 
∞ One of the few Swiss watchmakers to have its own production capacity for critical 
watch components, particularly regulating systems 
∞ A highly profitable company with solid prospects for growth 
∞ Great synergies with the Kering ‘Luxury – Watches and Jewellery’ division 

Paris (France) – Le Locle (Switzerland). Kering and Ulysse Nardin have signed an agreement for 
Kering to acquire 100% of the capital of Ulysse Nardin. The brand will join Kering’s ‘Luxury – 
Watches and Jewellery’ division, headed by Albert Bensoussan, and the management team will 
remain in place. The deal is subject to the consent of the competition authorities and should be 
finalised during the second half of 2014. 

Founded by Mr Ulysse Nardin in 1846 with its roots in the nautical world, the eponymous 
watchmaking house was taken over and re-launched in 1983 by Rolf W. Schnyder who 
transformed it into a highly profitable business in a healthy financial position. The company 
benefits from a very strong brand identity based on its historical expertise in marine chronometers 
and ultra-complication watches. Ulysse Nardin has long been one of the most innovative 
independent watchmakers. The brand was a pioneer in the use of cutting edge technologies and 
state-of-the-art materials like silicium, which today ensures that it has the in-house expertise, 
particularly in regulating systems, to produce its own components. Its coherent range of watches 
positioned in price segments that are growing and its efficient distribution network are also major 
assets. 

This acquisition constitutes a structural development enabling Kering to strengthen its ‘Luxury – 
Watches and Jewellery’ division with a clearly positioned business that complements its other 
brands. Over and above the opportunity for Ulysse Nardin’s geographical expansion, especially in 
the Asia-Pacific region, it will enable the deployment of the numerous synergies linked to Ulysse 
Nardin’s technical and industrial expertise and its excellent distribution network – contributing to 
accelerate the growth of the whole division. 

François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s Chairman and CEO, stated: “Ulysse Nardin benefits from a rich 
heritage, high profitability and solid growth prospects. Independent high-end watchmaking 
manufactures are rare. This is an opportunity that we had to seize, particularly because this 
structural acquisition will enable us to take advantage of numerous synergies with our existing 
brands. We have great ambitions for this company and we will help it continue its international 
expansion whilst staying faithful to its roots and its identity. In this regard, I am pleased that Mrs
Schnyder accepted to remain a member of its board of directors. I have long admired Ulysse 
Nardin and I am delighted that this brand is joining our ‘Luxury – Watches and Jewellery’ division.” 
Mrs Chai Schnyder, Chairman of Ulysse Nardin’s Board of Directors, stated: “Joining Kering is an 
opportunity for Ulysse Nardin. It will allow the brand to carry on with its international expansion 
and continue to innovate, while assuring the long-term future of its knowledge and expertise and 
the retention of its identity. I am delighted that Ulysse Nardin has found the best partner in 
Kering.” 

Pharos Al Arab Imperial

This just in from Grieb & Benzinger -

Two-part dial, blue hand-guilloché base dial, manually wound movement, skeletonized, guilloché and engraved by hand. Solid 18K rose gold case, bezel set with 66 high grade Princess cut diamonds, 43 mm in diameter, blue alligator-skin strap with solid 18K rose gold buckle.

Courtesy of Grieb & Benzinger

Following the BLACK TULIP SABUDHA and the GREEN INSPIRATION, the masters of GRIEB & BENZINGER have created another custom-designed timepiece for one watch connoisseur in the Emirates: the PHAROS AL ARAB IMPERIAL, inspired by the Arabian Sea.

Anyone who has ever visited the Arabian Sea has certainly fallen in love with its clear water shimmering in various hues of blue and the sparkling spots of sun beams dancing on the water’s surface. Even the iconic Burj al Arab has painted its various hotel floors in shimmering blue tones, with the tinge of turquoise reflecting the beauty of the water’s sapphire hues.

Paying tribute to this, one customer located in the Emirates wished to acquire a glamorous watch that plays with various shades of azure as well as the sparkling effect the sun provides when it touches the surface of water. And these wishes were the GRIEB& BENZINGER workshop’s command!

The amazing result: the PHAROS AL ARAB IMPERIAL comes in a solid 18K rose gold case with 66 Princess-cut diamonds set in the bezel. This is a timepiece that catches the eye alone by virtue of its amazing appearance: Arabic numerals on the regulator-style upper dial combine with a handcrafted, guilloché, blue-coated base dial that changes color as sun beams touch it. Sparkling royal Princess-cut diamonds cast their reflective beams on the bezel.

The manually wound movement features a three-quarter plate and a blue platinum coated base plate. All parts are decorated in typical GRIEB &BENZINGER manner, which also shows off its beauty from the back: hand-guilloché, hand-skeletonization, and hand-engraving as far as the eye can see.

BEXEI

I thought it might be a nice idea to revisit BEXEI -

Courtesy of BEXEI

DETAILS

case width:	37.5 mm
case height	42 mm
case depth	14 mm
band width	20 mm
duration	40 hour

Courtesy of BEXEI

COMPLICATIONS/INDICATIONS

• elliptic hour/minute indication
• second indication at 6 o’clock
• wind up indicator

The Doldrums

Yes gentle readers, we have entered that annual period in the watch calendar some of us refer to as the doldrums -

Colloquially, the "doldrums" are a state of inactivity, mild depression, listlessness or stagnation.^[1]

Courtesy of Wikipedia

So what does that really mean in terms of what interests us, that is, watches?

Well, generally speaking the majority of things move on as they always have.  People go on vacation, come back and go back to work.

BUT - there is a lot of rapid shuffling going on behind the scenes.  Remember BaselWorld?  I mean it seems like a lifetime ago, but in the time that has passed since mid-March, a lot of milestones have come and gone on the horizon of the various brands:

New models announced and promised for delivery, still not delivered.

New doors thought to be opened, have in fact not been.

Very, very late paying accounts promised to be paid… well, I think you know where I am going with this.  Because this is what could also be thought of as the "come to Jesus" time of year.  This is where hard decisions are going to be made.  This is also that "magical time of year" when whether or not a new or "re-booted" brand is going to make it is decided.  Often times not by the market, but by the investors who are now starting to get a little edgy.  Suddenly "Gentlemen Watchmakers" based in that bastion of watch making know-how (Luxembourg) start to realize that while the idea of owning and running a watch brand seemed like "fun", that in fact the Swiss can let you down with goof-ups and delays...just like the former owners you bought the brand from (who hail from an area just south).

Resumes are being punched-up, Linkedin is now on-fire (at least in the watch business).  People you would not bother to say "bless you" to if they sneezed are now on your call list.  Yes, it is a "special" time of year.

Meanwhile, those higher up the food chain are tracking the possible replacements with the same attention as football managers fighting through the dog days of summer to get their signings on board before the season starts.

So as always, there will be winners and losers - and a few brands that will breath their last.  I suppose in all fairness this is the same in any business, but because we are passionate about this stuff it is sometimes hard for us to separate the glamour from the reality.

But the clock is ticking, so I'll sign off for now.

A REALLY BIG Announcement from Raketa

So I got the news this morning, as I assume most other bloggers got, but although press releases from Raketa tend to have a "look and feel" all their own, I decided to wade in so that I could share the news.

Now, they provided this image, but according to the press release, production is not scheduled until December of this year (2014), so my best guess is that this is a rendering...

Courtesy of Raketa

Raketa announced that they would be producing the world's largest "clock work", and frankly, it is just nutty enough to share with you, so in their own words, here's the scoop:

"Raketa" produces the largest clockwork in the world!

The oldest factory in Russia, Petrodvorets Watch Factory "Raketa", founded by Peter the Great in 1721, producing watches under the brand "Raketa" in honor of Yuri Gagarin since 1961 has become an unusual order to produce a monumental clocks for “Central Detsky Magazin” on the Lubyanka square, in front of the FSB (KGB) building.

This gigantic “ Raketa” will join the top 5 biggest mechanical clocks in the world, such as Big Ben, the Kremlin clock, Prague and Ganzhou. the construction is scheduled for December 2014. The movement itself will be the biggest in the world. Its size 6 by 7,5 meters with a 13 meters pendelum.

The total weight of the movement will be about 5 tons and will be made ​​of aluminum, steel, copper and brass. There are no working clocks in the world with the gears of that size, up to 4 meters diameter.

 

This clock is to become on of the main attractions to tourists in Moscow.

Jacques von Polier, creative director of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory "Raketa", said: "For us it is a very important order and a very demanding work. We are really glad that "Hals-Development" has applied to our historical factory! Our entire team is proud of this project. We hope very much  that this watch go down into history. "

A Good Deed Rewarded!

So shines a good deed in a weary world.

Willy Wonka

Yesterday I had the very great pleasure of presenting the Frederique Constant slimline watch to Jennifer Ibaven here in Santa Barbara.  Jennifer's name was selected at random by the International Anti-Poaching Foundation from all of the people who donated $50 or more.  Jennifer was kind enough to battle insane traffic all the way from "down south" in the land where traffic lives to visit Santa Barbara and receive the watch.

You can tell I am a wee bit out of practice for these photo-ops, the watch is already on Jennifer's
wrist ; )

Peanut (the official spokes-elephant) and his buddy Samuel (the official spokes-rhino) were on hand to help with the presentation -

And A HUGE thank - you to Frederique Constant for providing such a wonderful thank-you gift. Yes, Yasmina Pedrini, Aleta and Peter Stas - THANK YOU!

And a very big Tempus Fugit thank you to Amy, Matt and Diane of 33 Jewels at El Paseo for hosting the presentation yesterday!

Porsche Design Redux

Okay, the press release I received was really more about Porsche Design "repositioning" itself -

Porsche Design repositions its business with luxury watches

See?

And that is certainly interesting news, but when I dig deeper into the release, I get news that I am not only interested in, I am very happy to read!  Remember Patrick Kury, formerly of Eterna?  

Well, I am very happy to say that he is now the CEO of the newly formed Porsche Design Timepieces AG, a subsidiary of Porsche Design.

Word is that the first collection will be available for sale in the fourth quarter of this year.  And my understanding is that at least initially they will only be for sale through Porsche Design.  And as I said, I am HAPPY!  I am happy to see someone as talented as Patrick Kury with his hand on the wheel!  

So enough with my happiness, here's the press release:

Porsche Design repositions its business with luxury watches

Courtesy of Porsche Design Timepieces

Stuttgart. The Porsche Design Group (Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG) has founded a subsidiary in Switzerland to continue its tradition of offering high-quality timepieces. Porsche Design Timepieces AG, based in the Jurasuedfuß region of Switzerland, will be responsible for developing and producing exclusive Porsche Design timepieces; marketing and sales will be overseen by the Porsche Design Group, which is based in Ludwigsburg, Germany. The first watch series offered solely by Porsche Design will go on sale in the fourth quarter of 2014. The CEO of the Swiss company is Patrick Kury (41).

“By taking this step, we are continuing the successful history of Porsche Design timepieces, which began in 1972 with the iconic Chronograph I”, says Juergen Gessler, CEO of the Porsche Design Group. “We are especially happy to have acquired Patrick Kury, a watch expert who – as well as demonstrating a profound understanding of our brand – is extremely skilled and accomplished when it comes to developing watch mechanisms. Kury has already proved this by developing the Porsche Design Indicator, the most complex watch mechanism in the world.”

“Porsche Design timepieces have always led the way for the entire watch industry in terms of design and concept”, says Patrick Kury, CEO of Porsche Design Timepieces AG. “As part of the new strategic realignment, we are consciously going back to the roots of Porsche Design timepieces. These revolutionized the industry in the 1970s and 1980s in terms of design and the materials used, as they included the world's first black watch as well as the world's first titanium watch. In the 2000s, Porsche Design timepieces boasted impressive technical highlights such as the mechanical-digital stopwatch display of the Indicator.”

As has been the case for more than 40 years, Porsche Design timepieces are positioned in an exclusive niche in the luxury watch category. The products are available around the world in the luxury brand's stores and from selected leading retailers. Currently, the company is preparing to launch the first watch series offered solely by Porsche Design. This series is reminiscent of the distinctive characteristics of the two most successful models produced by the luxury brand, the Chronograph I and the Titanium Chronograph, which were matt black and made from titanium respectively: The first model in the series – the Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 – heralds the era of Timepieces made by Porsche Design.

The self-winding chronograph features a case made from titanium, which has a diameter of 42 millimeters. The matt black case of the No. 1 was not painted – instead, it was coated by means of a special process. With regard to technical features, the model is equipped with a mechanical Valjoux 7750 chronograph mechanism that has a power reserve of 48 hours. The blackened sapphire crystal case back that shows the inner workings of the exclusive, energy-optimised Porsche Design rotor is a real eye-catcher. The Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 with black rubber strap is waterproof up to a depth of 50 metres (5 ATM) and is limited to a production run of only 500 units.

Characteristics that Porsche Design has been presenting as watchmaking milestones for more than 40 years. The legendary Chronograph I was the world's first black watch as well as the first product produced by the luxury brand. In 1972, the timepiece caused a furore, as the self-winding chronograph – a concept that had previously been 

inconceivable – was entirely black and provocatively plain. By releasing this timepiece, Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche was anticipating a trend that, while revolutionary at the time, defines the watch industry today. In 1980, Porsche Design revolutionised the watchmaking world with the first timepiece made from titanium ever to be seen. 20 years later, this was followed by the first watch to feature an aluminium case. The launch of the Indicator in 2004 saw the brand reach a new milestone: For the first time, this model combined chronograph functionality with a purely mechanical, jumping digital display. This was made possible thanks to the world's most complex watch mechanism produced in a limited run: Four spring barrels are required to power all functions reliably and the mechanism comprises a total of more than 800 individual parts.

The SportTaucher Bronze

From Archimede -

Courtesy of Archimede

TE8 Métiers d’Art II

This just in from Arnold & Son -

Courtesy of Arnold & Son

Limited to 8 pieces in the world, this is the TE8 Métiers d’Art II

News from Defakto

With a new office now open in Berlin, For those of you who haven't seen them, may I present Defakto 

Courtesy of Defakto

This is the version that most of you are familiar with - the Eins Klassik.  But news has come from Pforzheim that a new office has been opened in Berlin, and to celebrate Defakto is offering something new - this is the Defakto Eins Modular.

KonTiki Update

So it's about halfway through my 15 days with Eterna's KonTiki.  To get the usual items out of the way:

1.  Timekeeping - averaging just + 6 seconds per day so far.

2.  "Wearability" - surprisingly good given the size: 42 mm, but owing to the gentle curvature of the cases underside and lugs, it sits very comfortably.

In addition, the strap is far, far more comfortable than I anticipated.

The strap is described by Eterna as: Black leather with embossed textile structure.  For most of the other watch brands out there that is usually code for:  "We were trying to make something cool, put in a half-assed effort and off-shored it, and the strap is stiff, scratchy, and will give you a rash within 36 hours."  Not so with Eterna!  The strap is wonderfully comfortable, although the "top cover" of the strap is a textile overlay, it is profoundly flexible, and the finish is wonderfully smooth.  You will notice the stitching - more on that story when we wrap this up next week - stay tuned!

And I think that Eterna made a very wise decision in using a folding buckle instead of the temptation for using a deployment.  

But what has truly been fascinating to me is the response that this watch has received from both friends and strangers.

Now personally, I love the interplay of the orange and black.  After working for DOXA for three years,  I never thought I could embrace orange again as it sometimes felt that orange was the "only" color ; )  but there is something wonderfully striking in this combination.

The date is there, but again Eterna avoided the urge to simply "punch a hole" in the dial and "force it".

And finally, the dial's center piece.  And here I will quote Eterna:
The centre of the dial bears an engraved outline of Raroia, the Polynesian atoll on which the KonTiki ended its fabled voyage in 1947. 

When you see it in pictures (and my own above does it now justice), but I have to say that I really, really like it.  And if I am completely honest, I did not think that I would.  But that is the beauty of getting to try something out for a few weeks - it allows you to experience a watch in a far different way.

More to come - stay tuned!

The Grand Touring

From Citizen - YES CITIZEN!

Courtesy of Citizen

Another one of Citizen's perhaps lesser known automatic models, the Grand Touring

A Few Minutes with Emmanuel Dietrich

From aspiring cabinet maker, to watch designer, to one of the most looked-forwarded to releases from this year's BaselWorld with his new brand, Dietrich Watches…

And now, a few minutes with Emmanuel Dietrich -

Courtesy of Dietrich

Tempus Fugit - What was your first watch?  Was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Emmanuel Dietrich - I got my first watch when I was 7, the so called “age de raison” in France (where I grew up).  It was a hand-wound mechanical diver's model with a rubber strap.  I loved it and wore it for years.  It was a Cupillard Rième.  Since I was living in the watch area from Besançon in France, it was one of the many local brands that disappeared during the quartz crisis.

TF - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?

ED - At age 6, I started to dream of being a cabinet maker and kept asking for tools for birthdays and Christmas. Since then, I have always made or modified objects of any sort.

TF - Where did you go to school, what did you study?

ED - I first studied furniture fabrication.  I soon realized that this was far from the romantic idea of cabinet making that I had dreamed about as a young boy, so  I went to the “école Boulle” in Paris to study something more creative.  I graduated from there in interior design.

TF - What led you to watch design?

ED - At first I was linked to this world through location - I grew up in a region deeply connected to the world of watch making.  One of my parent’s friends was a watch prototype maker at LIP and he taught me a great deal.  But more than just location, I was drawn to the watch itself, as I also love the size of this object.  I love small and complex items that you can hold in your hand.  Plus they are like micro landscapes.  You can zoom into it and lose yourself for hours in reveries.

TF - Who are some of the brands that you designed for?

ED - I had the chance to start with Hermes.  I designed the Harnais watch for them.  With this reference, I could work with many other brands, but they don’t like that designers are talking about it…

 

TF - What made you decide to create your own watch brand?

ED - I refer you to your previous question!  I didn’t want to stay forever in the shadow of the big names.  I think this is not playing fair.  Plus, I wanted to express more completely my language of form and design and this was not possible working for clients possessing a strong DNA.

But first and foremost, having my own universe has always been my dream.  It took time to create the financial reserve to be able to start.  It took years to collect enough experience and contacts.  It took several attempts to find the right angle.  But this is the best experience I've ever had.  I will do everything to keep it going, to cherish it, and make it the most beautiful brand that I can.

TF - When we first met at BaselWorld 2013 you were very "quiet" about your plans.  How long have you been working on this?

ED - In 2012 I had presented first more classical items.  After that,  I realized that to succeed without deep financial strength, I had to find an expression that would be unique enough to stand out immediately.  And sexy enough to almost sell itself.  I decided to take time, and try as long as necessary to succeed.  I made prototypes for 2013 that I showed to possible partners.  The response was good, but not enough to start.  Immediately after Basel, I threw everything out again and went back to paper and pens… I came up with the current design during the summer.  And it was when I was showing it to people, I could finally see the reaction I was looking for.  And just as important, I had found the right production partner that allowed me to offer my creation at a selling price that made the package far more tempting.

TF - One of the big talking points (at least among the bloggers) is that you opted to use a Miyota movement instead of a Swiss movement.  Why was that?

Courtesy of Dietrich

ED - To achieve the price positioning, I had to renounce the concept of Swiss made, but I did it with a light heart.  The whole mystique of "Swiss Made" is a weird marketing rule that has no reality at all.  Everyone is using it at the limit.  There is no controlling organization.  The big groups are into their war with the result that you don’t find any more good affordable movements.  And honestly, when you buy a Mercedes, do you care where the engine parts are produced?  No, you just want German design, German engineering and quality control… for the best price.  I decided to go this much modern way.  I have dreamed about my watches and breathed these dreams into life around the beautiful lake in Zug, but they are produced worldwide to attain a price point that makes them accessible to many more people.  This is way more satisfying for a designer.  And Miyota makes excellent reliable industrial machines.  They maybe don't look very very beautiful, but they work!  And this is a really enjoyable quality…

 

TF - And the "all important" question (at least for some of us) - who will be carrying your brand in the US?

EM - I haven't decided yet.  Everything has moved so fast.  In the span of 5 months, we signed with 15 distribution partners worldwide.  I decided to pause and first deliver the existing orders. I also wanted to take some time to perfect the production, test it and test the sell through.  The US is a big and important market and we have to be ready for it. There is no hurry, we are here for years!

Courtesy of Dietrich

TF - What makes Dietrich special?

Courtesy of Dietrich

EM - The design language is mine.  These forms you cannot find in any other watch brand.  This mix: bold yet sensual, organic yet technological.  I always regarded the watch like an extension of the body.  Almost like a second external heart.  Beating in resonance with ours.

Courtesy of Dietrich

That is how my watches had to look and feel.  Futuristic yet so close to the body so that it immediately integrates with you when you wear it.  And this is something you have to try to understand.  These watches are REALLY smooth on the wrist and look surprisingly well integrated for their size.  People love to touch it and to wear it.  This is what makes me the most proud.

TF - I know that it is early on for your brand, but which of Dietrich's 3 offerings is your favorite?

Courtesy of Dietrich

ED - Depends of the day! Joking aside, if I had to choose just one, it would be the OT-3.  I love to see the “reality” of the material.

TF - What is wrong with the watch industry right now?

ED - They are taking themselves much too seriously.

TF - What is right with the watch industry?

ED - It is all about pleasure (who needs a watch here?) and identifying yourself with values.  That allows great brands with great values to exist and endure.  And therefore great jobs can exist and great people to live their passion and share it.

TF - Who is shaping up to be Dietrich's biggest/best market right now?

ED - We are delivering our first batch in 2 weeks, I will tell you this in Basel 2015 !!

TF - Enough about watches, what do you like to do in your spare time?

ED - Sport - climbing is another of my passions.  Pursuing culture, I am never tired of museums.  Spend time with my friends –I love to discuss for hours- and… women. What else?

TF - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

ED - I don’t know, it would seem that I am programmed for this.

TF - What advice do you have for the next designer aspiring to brand ownership?

ED - First, be patient.  This isn’t Internet hot shit here.  Excuse my French!  Building a watch brand needs time.  It will take at least 10 years before achieving some solid success.

Second, tons of passion. This is the only fuel capable of firing the engine for such a long run.

And third, (and to continue to "speak French", I AM French after all) big balls!
You have to take so many risks, to make so many sacrifices, to perhaps not respect so many rules to get through the first years!  That comes only with courage pushed to the limit of pure madness. All of your entourage will doubt, your banker will be furious, your first try will be terrible.  You need to be slightly reckless to keep sleeping well, and really passionate to feel the pleasure more than the pain.

If you recognize yourself here, just go!  This is the most amazing trip!

Nuking the Fridge with Zenith

I am sure that Russel Westbrook is a good guy.  I am sure that Zenith are a good hearted company…

But really?

Zenith is proud to be welcoming an exceptional ambassador who shares its values of daring, pleasure and authenticity: three-time NBA All-Star Russell Westbrook. To seal this friendship, Zenith pays tribute by creating a five-watch limited edition Pilot Type 20 Annual Calendar. These specially decorated models were developed in cooperation with Russell – acclaimed for his sense of style – and designed in keeping with his own codes of elegance.

Courtesy of Zenith

Well, we were told quarantine until Friday, July 18th, but another well-known blog has jumped the gun (if not jumped the shark) and frankly, I would assume that Zenith won't fault my daring, pleasure and authenticity whatever the hell that's supposed to mean, so here goes -

Courtesy of Urban Dictionary - I present you with "NUKE THE FRIDGE":

Nuke the fridge is a colloquialism used to refer to the moment in a film series that is so incredible that it lessens the excitement of subsequent scenes that rely on more understated action or suspense, and it becomes apparent that a certain installment is not as good as a previous installments, due to ridiculous or low quality story lines, events or characters. 

The term comes from the film Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, in which, near the start of the movie, Harrison Ford's character survives a nuclear detonation by climbing into a kitchen fridge, which is then blown hundreds of feet through the sky whilst the town disintegrates. He then emerges from the fridge with no apparent injury. Later in the movie, the audience is expected to fear for his safety in a normal fistfight. 

Fans of the Indiana Jones series found the absurdity of this event in the film to be the best example of the lower quality of this installment in the series, and thus coined the phrase, "nuke the fridge". 

So here's the thing - Nataf is gone, but clearly not forgotten from the halls of Zenith.  I know I don't work there, but if I am honest, this in combination with the "flying lips" from the Rolling Stones Zenith makes me wonder if there are a few too many watch designs planned over perhaps too much absinthe?

FELIX BAUMGARTNER - absolutely makes sense.  But this is vanity boys and girls.  And expecting excitement from us (the public) after Baumgartner with tepid (and downright goofy) partnership pairings is more than a let-down.  They are "nuking the fridge".

Searching for Carlo Crocco

Courtesy of MDM/HUBLOT

Remember him?  For many folks out there, there was no Hublot before Jean-Claude Biver.  And when you compare Hublot BB (before Biver) and AB (after Biver) you really can't dispute that.  He has done something amazing.

But gentle reader, way back when dinosaurs roamed the earth (1980), Mr. Crocco conceived the idea of the "porthole watch".  And the rest, as they say, is history.

But what history sometimes neglects is how it was that Mr. Biver came to Hublot in the first place.  Mr. Crocco was, more and more, getting involved in charity.  And he had created a foundation to help children in need around the world.  And he wanted to focus on THAT!

Photo shamelessly borrowed 

The watch industry (and in fairness, just about every other industry) is deeply entrenched in celebrity worship.  MILLIONS are thrown around to put a celebrity name on a dial, and get the "grip and grin" photo opportunity.

Now I accept the fact that I am a monumental pain in the ass, I nag brands for donations to causes, I will even resort to using shame if I think it will work.  But what the world DOES NOT NEED is another dim-witted, short-sighted celebrity tie in with a gift watch to someone who can afford hundreds of them.

No, what the world needs is another Carlo Crocco.

Something Jazzy from Ulysse Nardin

This is the Jazz Minute Repeater.

Courtesy of Ulysse-Nardin

Limited to only 18 pieces