Watches, watch commentary, watch reviews, the straight skinny on the watch business
Saturday, July 29, 2023
The Gardner Museum Meets Audemars Piguet... Sorta'
Thursday, July 27, 2023
The BR 05 CHRONO GREEN STEEL
From Bell & Ross -
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Courtesy of Bell & Ross |
Available on a steel bracelet or rubber strap.
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.326. Automatic mechanical.
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock and date.
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, central chronograph seconds.
Dial: green sunray. Applique indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Satin-finished applique numerals. Metal skeletonised SuperLumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.
Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight.
Where In The World Is...
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Courtesy of Fourtané |
Saturday, July 22, 2023
The Uruga 42 mm
From Minase -
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Courtesy of Minase |
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Courtesy of Minase |
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Courtesy of Minase |
Sunday, July 16, 2023
Watch Brand Creation Myths - This One's A True Story!
By now you've no doubt noticed the Oberlin Watch Company advertisement at the right of the main article section -
About 2 years ago I got an email from an old friend:
"I bought an (insert the name of a very popular, very hyped on social media watch) 2 months ago and it died on me! What watch should I get?"
Okay, in fairness there was more to this story. My friend works in marketing. He is fairly senior. He has not owned a watch since the turn of the century (2002 to be exact). His rationale was:
"I don't need a watch. My computer has the time, my cell phone has the time, the time is LITERALLY EVERYWHERE!"
Well, fair enough. Until...
My friend was in the middle of a pitch - yes gentle reader, there was a time before COVID where people were expected to show up to work, in person, FIVE days a week! The pitch meeting was for a fairly large client with very deep pockets. (editors note, that company has since gone out of business). He was sitting towards the rear of the room. His job was to give hand signals to his boss (who was giving the pitch to the potential client) to let him know how much time was left. Not having a watch, my friend was occasionally looking at his phone to check the time. At one moment the potential client looked over and saw this, and came to the reasonable conclusion that my friend was goofing off with instagram, or some other time killing activity. My friend's boss clocked this activity and (once the client had left) exploded:
"What were you doing playing with your f'ing phone?!?"
My friend informed his boss that he was checking the time to signal to him when to wrap up. His boss was not soothed:
"Go get a damn watch! Not tomorrow, not after work, not even after lunch! Go get a damn watch right now!!!"
So needless to say, my friend exited the office and turned left into a boutique that sold (insert the name of an over-hyped, very popular quartz watch here) watches, and put just over $200 (with tax) on his credit card and wore the watch back to the office. His boss was appeased. And everything was fine... for the next 2 months. And then the watch stopped working. Not sure if it was a battery or simply defective, he went back to the boutique, and was given an address to send his watch in for warranty service (they insisted that they could not do this for him). So on Saturday he packed up the watch and shipped it back to the address he was provided. And...
He waited, and waited, and waited....
After several unanswered emails, phone calls and carrier pigeon notes it became clear to him that while he might get the watch repaired and returned, it was not likely to happen prior to his retirement or employment termination, whichever came first.
And this brings us back to my friend's email to me. What watch should he get? I suggested an inexpensive Seiko, a Timex, Casio, or even a Swatch.
"You work in the watch business. Can't you make me one?"
This led to a 15 day back and forth explaining that, in fact, while I did sales, marketing and other things, making a watch was not something for us to discuss because unlike the salt and pepper, it was not on the table. But he kept pushing.
So I reached out to my friends at Swiss Made Consulting LLC and asked, crazy as it sounded, if they could make a small run of 100 or so watches. They said yes, and that is what led to the OBIE1.
But it wasn't quite as simple as that. Truth be told? I didn't have a lot of ideas as to what it could/should look like. Fortunately I know a guy who is pretty good at design -
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Courtesy of Sartory Billard |
Armand Billard kindly stepped up and quickly came up with a design, logo, pretty much everything needed.
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Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company |
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Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company |
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Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company |
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Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company |
Now at about this time, I also realized that it was not an inexpensive option to make a watch for 2 high school friends who wanted a $100 -$150 quartz watch. So I started posting some renderings on social media groups for Oberlin Ohio and Oberlin High School. The feedback was pretty good and I felt that I could roll the dice on an initial order of up-to 100 pieces (as that was the minimum). Unbeknownst to me, a reporter from the regional newspaper - The Chronicle Telegram, had been following the Facebook group discussions. He reached out, and a day later my email in-box exploded with messages from people wanting to buy my new "OBIE" watch. That article can be read here -
In May 2021 the watches arrived, and the first 100 OBIE watches were dispatched. Now another funny part of the story - I thought that the majority of watches would be sold to Oberlin residents past and present. Not so!
Saturday, July 15, 2023
The 1950-4
From Archimede -
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Courtesy of Archimede |
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Courtesy of Archimede |
Movement
Swiss-made hand-wound movement

The high-quality case manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim.
Brushed and polished, domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 3 ATM, onion crown, screw-down case back with mineral crystal. Dimensions: Diameter 40mm, thickness 9,8 mm, lug-to-lug length 44 mm
Hands
Vintage, luminous hands, domedBand
Strap
Dark brown leather strap, Vintage look, width 20mm, (wrist size: 17 - 21,5cm) (optional: deployment clasp)
€806.72 Price excl. VAT
An Open Request to Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo
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Courtesy of Bell & Ross |
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Courtesy of Bell & Ross |
F**KING SUN Sea-salt white
From Sequent -
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Courtesy of Sequent |
Clearly, connected watches are still (and apparently will continue to be) a popular item out there. And having tested a few in my time, I can say that I do see the value of them. While I swear by my Hermès Apple watch (thank you, Wendy!), I will say that there is something about the consistency of an analog face, a watch that actually looks like a watch, and not needing to charge my watch every day.
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Courtesy of Sequent |
- Activity Tracking
- Sleep Tracking
- Heart Rate
- Sport Mode
But for me the best part is the theme - F**KING SUN! The melting ice cream cone that acts as an indicator just over the 6 o'clock position. Again, if I am being completely honest I have not been a fan of every seconde/seconde collaboration. The less said about the "Vulcain Salute" the better...but boy was that ever a turd...
But with that said, this one is fun and strikes the perfect balance of playfulness with the watch it is adapted to.
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Courtesy of Sequent |
If like me, you are intrigued, here are the pertinents -
Features:
· SC 2.3 in-house movement
· Sapphire Solar technology
· Activity tracking (steps, distance, calories)
· Heart rate monitoring
· Sleep tracking
· Workout mode
· Maps with e-GPS (requires phone)
· Sequent Oxygo app
· Compatible iOS and Android
Specifications:
· #tide case
· Sapphire dial
· SuperLuminova® indexes
· Hands filled with SuperLuminova®
· Unique activity tracking indicator
Dimensions:
· Diameter : 40.90 mm
· Height : 12.90 mm
· Lug to lug : 47.50 mm
· Strap width : 22.00 mm
· Case weight : 30 gr
· Strap weight : 22 gr
· Water resistance : 50 meters
Power Reserve:
· Stand-by : up to 24 months / infinite with solar (1 hour/week of sunlight)
· Activity : up to 12 months / infinite with solar (1 hour/day of sunlight)
· Activity + Heart rate : up to 2 months / infinite with solar (5 hours/day of sunlight)
*sunlight at 20’000 lux
When the watch reaches 40%, we continue tracking your steps and stop Bluetooth® and below 10% the watch goes into time only mode.
Available in five refreshing flavors, and limited to 99 pieces of each version.
Saturday, July 8, 2023
Summer Repeat - A Few Minutes With Richard Sachs
As it is the first week of my favorite annual event - the Tour de France, it seemed like a good time to dust this one off and reheat it. Of all the interviews I've done, this is far and away one of my favorites!
And now a special summer repeat -
A Few Minutes With Richard Sachs
In the 12 years since this little project started, I have met a lot of people both inside and outside of the watch industry. There have been some pretty good interviews, and to be honest a few clangers. Well, gentle reader, I have to say that the following interview was one of the most interesting I have ever conducted.
Regular insomniacs (readers) will know that I am more than a bit interested in cycling. And more to the point I have long been intrigued by the guys and gals who design and make custom bicycles. While there is no shortage of folks (recently) doing this, there is a dearth of talent at the very top. That's not a criticism of everyone else, but as with any pursuit, it is the rare individual who separates herself/himself by sheer force of will and talent.
As a young man I fantasized about climbing with the peloton up the Tourmalet, and breaking away to win (for me) the most legendary stage in the Tour de France. (insert an image of me here - 50 pounds lighter, hands aloft and punching the sky as I rolled across the line). And in that daydream I was wearing the white with red polka-dot King of the Mountains jersey, and riding a Richard Sachs custom bicycle (with the Campagnolo Super Record Group - this was the 80s). Hailing from what is rumored to be one of the most topographically challenged (read flat) areas in the lower 48, my daydream remained just that.
But the dream of riding one of the most desired frames in the world has never faded. For you non-cyclists out there, the best way to try and understand how long the wait list is for a Richard Sachs frame is to take the waitlist for a Rolex Daytona circa 2003 and multiply it by the list for a Patek Philippe Nautilus and then multiply that total by 100. And word around the campfire is that a frame by Richard Sachs is totally worth the wait.
So without further ado, a few minutes with Richard Sachs -
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
James Henderson - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?
Richard Sachs - The first timepiece I remember owning was a Hopalong Cassidy watch. I’m sure it was a gift during my early childhood. I loved it. And it’s funny - in reading the interview questions, I knew what my reply to this first one would be.
It took me down a rabbit hole of memories. The watch came in a presentation case that opened from the top. That is, it was nesting inside and to find it you lifted the upper part of the box, and the base had the watch strapped around what was a horse saddle. The packaging art reeked of Wild West imagery. I loved the visual. And that everything was so secure owing to how ingeniously well the cardboard material was engineered. By itself it was a thing of beauty. I was never 100 percent comfortable (or happy) once I removed the watch and placed it around my wrist. For sure, it told time, but how important is this for an eight-year-old? What stuck was that I had to undo the strap, take the watch from the saddle, and then be left with this lovely box that no longer had purpose. I saved it, nonetheless. Thinking back, I’m sure this item and some others like it formed the basis of my love for - no, my infatuation with – fine design. I’m a former closeted follower of so many things presented well to whet consumer appetites. Now I’m out. I love love LOVE how products and their delivery systems can complement each other in their respective roles. I can get as much pleasure looking at objects wrapped for retail as I can using them. Wait. The presentation is often more rewarding. I’ll leave it there.
JH - If I understand it correctly, you were born and raised in New Jersey? Can you share with us a bit about your youth?
RS - I’m from Bayonne. An only child raised by a single mom. Our street was red brick row houses, each two a mirror of those on either side. The city was diverse, and my childhood friends were a collection from all religions, backgrounds, ethnicities, and colors. I’m Jewish. I went to a Yeshiva some twenty miles away in Union City for my first through eighth grades. Bus rides in the morning. Bus rides in the late afternoons. My teachers were Rabbis. Once I realized I had a choice, I stopped caring about what they had to say or offer, learned to stare out the window, and waited to leave.
JH - So an honest (if sheepish) admission - as a Northern Youth growing up in Oberlin, Ohio in the late 70s and 80s, to quote The Wire - your name rang out. At that time, I was too young and too poor to buy one of your frames. Just prior to 50 it seemed the wait list might exceed my viable remaining cycling years (I am planning to keep going into my 70s), so I plumped for a custom Ciocc. So, apologies if this is a trite or tired question -
To what do you owe consistent popularity and success?
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
JH - I read a passage on your Instagram feed (IMPORTANT - FOLLOW this man on Instagram, you'll thank me!) about your most recent donation to your old school and I found your thoughts and reflections particularly evocative. As the director of an adult education program, I get my fair share of warm-fuzzies from former students, but this one took the biscuit. Would you mind sharing with us a bit about your alma mater and what the school meant to you then and means to you now?
RS - I went (read, I was sent) to The Peddie School because, for two years in my local public high school, I was a magnet for poor grades and any activities that could distract me from applying myself. I didn’t care about anything that happened in the classroom. I didn’t read. I neglected as many assignments as I could. I got by often by faking, or cheating on tests, or borrowing homework from pals. But on balance, I didn’t get by at all. My life as a freshman and sophomore consisted of me trying to have as much extracurricular fun as possible, legal, or not. What happened inside the school building never mattered.
Courtesy of The Peddie School |
The journal keeping, especially in my sophomore year, became a task I looked forward to nightly (that’s when we did our homework in the dorm rooms, doors always open, so the Masters could walk the hallways and make sure we were in there applying ourselves.)
Somehow, and as a result of all the contrasts between boarding school life and the one I knew from attending Bayonne High School, the writing thing got under my skin. I don’t want to dwell too far into the weeds, but at some point, in my first year at Peddie the school had a writing contest open to all grades. I submitted a short story entitled The Grass. By some streak of luck, and by some force of nature that to this day makes little sense to me, I won the contest. Me, little Richie Sachs from the old neighborhood. A sophomore for the second time. I penned over a thousand words that the English Department (whose Masters comprised the jury) thought my story was the best from among all 370 students. Fuck me. But the level of affirmation that came with this award put me on another path. And I still had another two years after this before I’d leave school.
The ordeal, especially being singled out, was a leaping off point for all that followed. Mr. Roberts was proud of me. My mom was proud of me. And, of course, it’s obvious I too was proud. But I never went to college. My Peddie School years, all three of them, were my higher education.
Baby steps. But enough of them strung together are why my experiences at, and allegiances with, this school are so deep and wide.
JH - If you could make a Richard Sachs frame for any notable cyclist of the past, who would you build one for?
RS - I never know or ask what my clients do, or who they are. Some do tell me though.
JH - I apologize if this question sounds like it's coming from a rube, but it seems (and maybe I got the wrong end of the stick here) that you are more a fan of cyclocross than road riding/racing. What is it about cyclocross that makes it so appealing?
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
JH - You are partnering again with Roland Murphy of RGM - which is great news by the way! How did you two get connected?
Courtesy of RGM |
RS - I believe it was 2005. My team needed a title sponsor since the one we had for the prior six years (Brown & Sharpe) wasn’t renewing. I decided to list the team on eBay. The high bidder would be entitled to have the front and center spot on our kits. Of course, there was a minimum bid that had to be met for this to make sense. We ended up aligning with an entity in New York State that was in the seeding stages of constructing a velodrome, and they believed using us (RSCX) to broadcast their plans was a good media buy. In the middle of it all, Roland Murphy saw the listing but emailed me directly, asking what it was all about. I reiterated that we were looking for commercial benefactors to offset the team’s expenses.
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
He thought RGM Watch Company and my own bicycle making were a good match. Roland made an offer to be part of our family of brands. He also had ideas about RGM’s producing a special edition watch that would cross-promote our relationship. They did. It sold out.
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
JH - If you were to pick a watch maker or brand (apart from Mr. Murphy) that you identify with, who would it be?
RS - Philippe Dufour
JH - Dream / Grail watch - what would it be?
RS - To be clear, I really know very little about watches despite being aware of more than a few haute brands. Long before I’d met Roland or even heard of RGM Watch Company, I was fascinated with mechanical watches and the aura associated with independent horology. Somewhere along the way, I read a story about The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants and was smitten. Part of me was always looking for a group like this within my own small trade. I think it’s the Jersey Boy in me that gravitates to small, self-selected, and even self-important groups like AHCI. They certainly intrigue me. That said, my interests are far less about the actual timepieces and more about the men who toil at their benches, often alone, and pursue mastery. That’s gold, Jerry. Gold.
JH - I have long worshiped at the church of Campagnolo and Columbus. You actually helped develop tubing with Columbus! How did that come about?
Courtesy of Richard Sachs |
In late 2002 and because of a JRA while riding through central Italy, my bicycle broke. To this day I’m convinced it was a result of poor manufacturing on the part of my then materials supplier. I was stuck in Matera with a tour group and had to resolve my situation. I borrowed a cell phone and called Dario. He and I met about eight years prior when he visited my workroom in Connecticut. We became fast friends and kindred spirits. Together we lamented the state of our trade and decided what framebuilding needed was a renaissance of sorts. To that end, we colluded on designing and producing a tube set that was 21st Century modern in dimensions, lengths, and wall thicknesses, and made with traditional methods in mind. That is, every aspect of each element would be selected with brazing and lugs as the joining process. We brought the idea to Columbus who, at the time, was living on vapors owing to a wholesale departure from steel to all things nonferrous and asked them to partner with us. They dispatched an engineer to visit me and spend two days working through options. By 2004 the company started making the tubing for us. Initially it was called Spirit for Lugs. I renamed it PegoRichie soon after because it made more sense. Since then, the sets have been continually revised. There are now at least five versions and two distinct diameter choices.
JH - Once and for all - Campagnolo, Shimano or SRAM - what should we be riding?
RS - Only Campagnolo Super Record on road, and SRAM 1X for ‘cross.
JH - You engage is what many refer to as an old school approach, but I read a posting on your Instagram where you stressed the importance of evolving and developing. What is the state of the handmade bicycle world today? Is it moving too fast, or too chained to the past?
RS - I believe in practice. And respect for history. And that everything we do stands on the shoulders of those before us. I’m not romantic about it, though I am pragmatic. At some point in the early 1990s (and certainly in every model year since) industry has developed methods to produce bicycle frames more efficiently and to higher tolerances and at lower costs (and and and) than what independent cats and kittens were once doing. Framebuilding, as I knew it as a younger man, has changed.
Courtesy of Richard Sachs & Bicycling Magazine |
My trade was once the highest level on our industry’s food chain. Industry copied framebuilding, and simply watered down the innovations from our side of the ledger and sold bicycles for less money to more people. Now, in Y2K, the industry is doing most of the leading, and framebuilders (sic) who have little to no experience and or depth copy what’s made by the Big Box Brands. There are exceptions. But for the most part, what we have now is a legion of makers who are trying hard to find markets, though with precious few years at the bench and perhaps even less experience on the commercial side. To sum it up, we’re not in Kansas anymore.
JH - If you weren't doing this, what would you be doing?
RS - I’d be at my bench working.
JH - Is there another frame builder out there you admire?
RS - My muses aren’t from the trade.
JH - What advice do you have for the next Richard Sachs out there?
RS - Don’t look up.
JH - What is your motto? (I hope it is "never fucking relent", because as personal mottos go, that is the shit that killed Elvis!
RS - I have various hashtags that others have glommed onto and use. #neverfuckingrelent is one of them. Motto? I don’t have one. But to honor my mother whose presence in my life is missed not only daily but hourly, I often summon up a phrase she penned while, in later years during her retirement but still working for the New Jersey Board of Education mentoring candidates for future school principal positions, she encouraged all who had a dream, a vision, a goal – to see it done. See it done. See. It. Done.