2019 - What I'd Like to See Next

While everyone else is putting out their "Best of 2018" reports, I thought I'd take a different approach, and put out my "What I'd Like to See in 2019".  

Tudor - I love the GMT, completely unabashed love.  There, I've said it.

Courtesy of Tudor

But I also think that there is still a lot to be brought forward - think Rolex Cellini circa 2002/2003.  Also, maybe delve into a different take on the North Flag.  We loved it when we first saw it, but maybe there is still some "mojo" there that can be fleshed out.  More of a field watch as opposed to yet another riff on a dive watch.

My other request?  Cool it with the brand ambassadors.  Curious to relate, David Beckham and Lady Gaga do not really influence my watch purchases.  What made Tudor really cool was the very lack of ambassadors.  More to the point, if you're going to go down the ambassador road, dig a little deeper and find a better match.  

Eterna - It's been pretty quiet in Grenchen.  But there has now been a reasonable amount of down time, and there are still true believers out there.  And despite everything that I have written in the past, I am one of them!  Focus on the KonTiki.  We want it, we will buy it.  I have one, and I'm ready to buy more.

Kickstarter as an investment model - PLEASE STOP.  I know that we all have dreams and aspirations.  And I appreciate that Kickstarter is seductive.  But of the few watch brands that had big, splashy starts via Kickstarter, most are now adrift.  It is hard to sustain the magic.  And this is due to several things, not the least of which is that 9 times out of 10 it is a brand new business for these folks who don't really understand what they are getting into.  

And if you are an established brand using Kickstarter?  Shame on you.  

The Regional Watch Show - Speaking strictly for the US, I am excited to see the potential for a few more organized watch shows in the US and maybe Canada that will level the playing field for brands to participate in (rather than the current beauty pageant/ reindeer games formula currently favored by one show), and make the idea of attending a show a more realistic possibility for people outside of New York City.

Something genuinely new - All too often, it is more a question of playing not to lose rather than playing to win.  BELIEVE ME, I understand that!  But rather than just cranking out the same old thing and ladling healthy amounts of hyperbole on it?  Let's get back to the good old days (2000 or so) when the watches were new, exciting, and in many cases could speak for themselves.

The Gerber/Crawford DNA Olympics - Now in fairness, I think that Cindy Crawford was a very, very good ambassador.  Yes, me, I said that and I stand by it.  BUT, I have yet to understand the rationale for hiring her two kids (and ostensibly her husband) to shill for Omega.  

And honestly?  I can't blame the ambassadors.  Some company wants to throw stupid money at you?  Take it.  But Omega was lazy on this one.  

And yes, there's a lot more to consider for 2019, let's hope for something even better than before.

Enjoy your watches!


  

One Splash of Red

Stowa is one of those brands that continues to fascinate me.  Yes, they could try to expand, make tons of watches and look for some bigger fish to buy them.  But they prefer to do things their own way, staffing just enough, making just enough watches.  From time to time you will notice that there is a necessary wait for a watch from Stowa.  Oddly enough, it does something that every watch brand should aspire to - it creates desire, which in turn creates demand.  While I know that most people gravitate towards their flieger watches, which is absolutely understandable, I am the proud owner of two of their more modestly sized watches (Partitio and Back to Bauhaus).  And now I have to re-evaluate and see if there is room in my life for three -

Courtesy of Stowa

The Partitio is one of those watches that beguiles me.  It has not moon phase, no power reserve indicator, not even a date.  It is utterly simple, and utterly perfect.  And as much as I love the first version with matching hands, this one has one (startlingly) simple twist.  A red second hand.  Nothing dramatic, but that one little flourish just does it for me.

Here are the pertinents -

Case
Stainless steel, solid case back

Diameter:
37.00mm
Height:
10.80 mm with domed sapphire glass - automatic 9.80 mm with domed sapphire glass - hand-wound
Strap width:
18.00mm
Lug-to-Lug size:
46.90mm
Waterproof:
up to 5ATM
Weight:
62 gr. (leather strap), about 110 gr. (metal bracelet)Dial:
black matte, white printed, Superluminova Old Radium
Hands:
polished, nickel-plated with Superluminova Old Radium

Movement
Caliber:
ETA 2824-2
Mechanism:
mechanical, automatic
Specific features:
screwed case back

Seven Days with the Collins Automatic

So as honesty is the best policy, I had never heard of Collins prior to the District Time show in Washington DC back in September.  And that is really neither here nor there, but suffice it to say that it was a bit of an unknown quantity to me.

For those others who are just tuning in, Collins is a brand created by Jimmy Collins.  Mr. Collins has, on the face of it, a seemingly unlikely background for entering the watch business.  Harvard educated, Fulbright fellow, film maker and music producer - I think I have that right.  In short, not the typical guy or gal you meet at a watch gathering fronting his own small brand.  But that is what makes watches so much fun!

Which brings us to the review - this is the Collins Automatic.  Per the site, the watches are assembled in the US.

The design is fairly straightforward with a sort of hybrid look and feel of a field watch meets flieger (that's pilot's watch to you).   It is a nice balance of size and substance with a 40 mm stainless steel case, and a very tactile crown with nice, deep grooves.  The crown operated smoothly, setting and winding were flawless.

Some more on the case, the finish is matte, which fits the overall theme of the watch itself.  It fits fairly flat on the wrist and was comfortable all day long.  The crystal is sapphire.

The casebook is solid and "logo'd" with what I assume is a serial number beneath -

In terms of the crown, I have to say that I am not a fan of the crowns typically used on pilot's watches.  The tend to extend too far, feel wobbly, snag on clothing and be impossibly attracted to blunt objects causing more than a few frustrations.  

The crown is definitely of the Goldilocks school of design - not too big, not too small, but just right.

The dial is very legible with large numbers from 1 - 11 with a large arrow at 12 o'clock.  The numbers hands are treated with what Collins refers to as “old radium” Lume Super LumiNova.  The glow was quite good and I did take pictures, but to do it justice I will borrow from Collins -

Courtesy of Collins

Yes, the lime was this good.

One aspect of the dial was a bit of a disappointment, and that would be the date window.

While I appreciate the idea that the four corners would help enhance the legibility of the date within the window, I unfortunately had a completely opposite take on it, finding it challenging to pick out the date itself when looking at it in normal situations.  I also suspect that with more regular wear you would get used to the layout and find it easier to discern the date.

Under the hood, the Seiko NH35A keeps things moving, and the timekeeping was excellent.  Interesting to relate, I have come across more and more small and micro brands moving away from Miyota, and adopting Seiko's movements.  As with the Miyota, this makes sense as you get a reliable movement at a fair and reasonable price.

The watch is secured with a stainless steel buckle and a fairly thick brown leather strap.  While the strap is good looking and plenty robust, I have to be honest that I personally found it a wee bit too thick, making the threading of the strap through the loop a bit of a minor struggle.

I suspect that as the strap is worn more and more, the softer it will be and the easier to "thread the needle", but for those just starting out I urge restraint in the putting on and taking off to ensure the strap loops hold up.

Overall?

I would say that at the price point, this is a winner.  The Collins Automatic is priced at $299, which is beyond competitive with what the other brands are offering.  

And more to the point, if the crowd of people hovering around the Collins table at the District Time show, and number of watches sold is anything to go on?  It is clearly a watch that watch fans want and are buying.  While it might be a bit off your radar - it was certainly off of mine, I have the feeling that we will all be hearing more from Collins.

Here are the pertinents -

Collins Automatic - Silver 

from 295.00

Assembled, tested, and tuned in the USA

FEATURES
SEIKO NH35A automatic movement
Sapphire crystal
10ATM (100M)  water resistance
Super-luminova “old radium” Lume
SOLID STAINLESS CASE BACK.

DIMENSIONS
Case: 40mm
Lugs: 20mm
Thickness: 12mm
Lug-to-Lug: 48mm

MOVEMENT
SEIKO NH35A Automatic
Jewels: 24
Vibrations/Hour: 21,600 bph
Power Reserve: 41 Hours
HACKING: Yes

New Staff Member Announcement!

It has been rather a busy time here at Tempus Fugit with the launch of The New Romantics and a return to working with brands more directly.  After speaking with the Executive Publisher it became clear that we needed an additional set of hands (or paws) to help out and make sure that things keep running smoothly.  So it gives me great pleasure to announce the newest member of the Tempus Fugit team, Sabrina Mac.

A native of Salem, MA Sabrina joins us as a junior researcher and cub (or kit) reporter.  She will be working to help identify and expand on our coverage of lesser-known watches, pens and accessories.  In addition, she has indicated a great willingness to contribute reviews of blankets, scarves and even sweatshirts.  Although partial to cashmere, she is adamant that the review and coverage of such items should not be limited to the high end.

Revisiting Pequignet

Courtesy of Pequignet

Pequignet, it seems, continues to surprise many of the pundits out there.  Some years on from some particularly thorny financial issues, it appears that Pequignet may be over the hump and finally ready to challenge for a share of market space not only in Europe, but here in the US.

This is the Pequignet Paris Royal.

The movement is special, the Pequignet Royal.  It offers three days of power reserve, large date, moon phase and power reserve indication.  The case measures 41 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.  Me myself?  I love he numbers.  I realize that is a seemingly trivial matter, but I dig 'em!

Now at 7000 Euros, I am not going to crow that this is a watch for everyone.  But I would also point out that with the level of finish of the movement and the detail in the dial, for those with the means this is a very affordable alternative to what is on offer from the big groups.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

MOVEMENT
Calibre Royal, Manufacture movement with dual direction automatic winding, 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz), Initial force distribution by a central barrel axis, large balance with compensating screws in solid gold, 220°amplitude in vertical position after 72-hours operation.
Large date and day with no amplitude loss upon activation. Unique system for exceptional reliability and accuracy. Integrated complications.
88-hour power reserve design, dial display with 72-hour guaranteed isochronism. Integrated complications.
Large accurate moon phase at 6 o’clock, integrated complications.
Small seconds at 4 o’clock symmetrical to power reserve.
Movement finish: bridges and main plate circular-grained and snailed, with Côtes de Genève.
Oscillating weight with sunray finish and rhodium plating, gilt "Fleur de Lys" logo.

CASE
Diameter : 41mm
316L Stainless Steel
Polished case finish, case middle hoop polished/satin-finished with micro-blasted grooves
Case body with overlaid lug arms
Case-back secured by 4 screws with polished heads
Crown embossed with "Fleur de Lys" logo
Non-reflecting sapphire crystal, case-back and crystal bezel
Direct middle casing
Water resistance : 50 meters

DIAL
Silvered Opaline, facetted dual window
Blue, golden horizontal moon phase
Small seconds and power reserve with white fine snailed finish
Rhodium-plated applique antique Arabic numeral chapter ring and "Fleur de Lys" logo
Polished steel hands designed by Pequignet


BRACELET
Large-scaled remborded black alligator
Available in folding clasp or ardillon buckle embossed with "Fleur de Lys" logo

We Sail Tonight For Singapore - Part the Third

From Singapore, by Tom Waits - 

We sail tonight for Singapore
Take your blankets from the floor
Wash your mouth out by the door
The whole town is made of iron ore
Every witness turns to steam
They all become Italian dreams
Fill your pockets up with earth
Get yourself a dollar’s worth
Away boys, away boys, heave away

So the November numbers are in, and because it appears to be my lot in life to be (if not the lone) one of the few contrarians out there in the watch world, here goes -

Courtesy of the FH

Again, the image is sort of fuzzy, and I do apologize for that.  But truth be told, the results are more than just a wee-bit fuzzy themselves.

The first thing to notice is that the numbers are going rather retro.  Now in fairness, they are much better than this time last year.  But if we are looking at them objectively, it is safe to say that they have been slipping the last 3 months.  And it is also safe to say that the only reason that they are as good as they are, is the push to shove as much product across the borders of the various cantons before the new regulations go into force.  

But then it gets more interesting when you factor in the countries that are "up" versus "not-so-up".

Curious to relate?

Mighty Singapore is once again back with one of their semi-annual market surges this time of (wait for it) +9.5%.

Now in the interest of total transparency, the closest I have ever come to Singapore was when my girlfriend (at the time) left Japan to return home to the UK and spent a week in Singapore and sent me postcards and letters from the Raffles Hotel in, you guessed it, Singapore.  Well, needless to say that relationship did not stand the test of time, nor do I suspect that the recent (again, semi-annual surge) of watch exports to Singapore, truly signals their emergence as a world hub for buying watches.  Now as a source to "source" grey market watches for global "discharge"?  Sure!

Even stranger, the US is apparently the darling of the industry with a mighty surge of + 17.6%.  Curious to relate (again) this export figure does not nearly match the (granted anecdotal) evidence provided by several US retailers that I have spoken with.  Of those I have spoken with?  Sales are pretty flat.  

Once again, at the risk of being, well, honest?  If the export numbers don't correlate with the "on the ground" feedback about actual sales, it tells you one clear thing that further informs other points -

1.  Watches are being exported to subsidiary offices to get them off the books at Swiss HQ.

2.  Watch sales are flat in North America.

3.  The grey market has PLENTY of product to sell.

The industry has not recovered.  Sorry, but it hasn't.  On the positive side?  Several brands have reduced their production to match real world demand.  The problem?  There was way too much product sloshing around that had to be flushed through the system.  And short of crushing watches?  That means our old friend the grey market.  The good news?  Lot's of affordable (let's call them price adjusted to reality) watches will now be available!  And hey, don't worry about the warranty!  You'll get some chicken-shit after market warranty for your pennies on the dollar purchase.  

It is a tired, skipped record from this d-jay, but simply put.  If you buy a grey market watch at a bargain price?  Don't lose your shit when that watch is worth even less than you paid for it when you are hoping to re-sell it.  Along with the grey market?  The Sunk Cost Trap is alive an well!

Enjoy your watches, and spend your money carefully!

The Deadweight Loss of Christmas

I promise you that I am neither Scrooge or Krampus -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

But yet another year is rapidly coming to a close, and the emphatic requests from watch pr folks urging me to include their latest offerings in my "Gift Guide".  This told me first and foremost that they really had no idea about me, and likely had never read Tempus Fugit.  Well, fair enough.  

But then it got me thinking on the angst and economic necessity of the holiday gift giving season for the watch industry.  It goes without saying that it truly does largely determine how well (and not well) a brand is going to do that year.  And I can understand how for a lower end brand that could and maybe even should be the case.  A SWATCH, a Fossil, even a G-Shock is not an unreasonable amount to spend on a Holiday gift to stick under the tree or give on the eighth night, or whatever else your winter holiday gift giving might entail.  But where I feel we have lost the plot as watch fans is that the big events that are meant to really be meaningful (Graduations, Marriages, Anniversaries, REALLY BIG PROMOTIONS at work) all seem to drift by the wayside with the sensory overload that the holidays can bring.  

I heard a very interesting bit on NPR today and found this via Google -

The economics of wasteful spending: The deadweight loss of Christmas

And it really made me think about trying to understand how much do we really value that one or two "special" watches, and do they really even exist for some of us any more?  Now I realize that is a bit of a holiday downer, and I don't mean to piss in anyone's eggnog, but if you are reading this and your feeling down because you haven't (and likely will not) receive that much wanted Patek Philippe, Rolex or other beyond extravagantly priced holiday present, don't feel bad about it.  

I realize that this is just my own personal opinion, and may well be part of the reason why I don't work full-time for a watch brand any longer, but what I love (particularly) about the two watches my wife Wendy has given me for Christmas presents is that they really meant something on that particular holiday (and still do).  So any Christmas, you will see me wearing my Junghans Max Bill (circa 2000, gold plate and manual winding) which she gave me the Christmas after I had lost my high-flying career and been brought back down to earth managing a Starbucks in San Francisco.  It was in some ways the very worst and the very best thing that ever happened to me professionally.  And in the process I rediscovered myself and what made me happy.  And on Christmas, you are just as likely to see me channeling my "inner-Hayek" by wearing a watch on my right wrist as well - a burgundy SWATCH which was one of the first larger "Gent's" size models that SWATCH came out with.  And as I recall, this was the Christmas after my father died, and for the first time I didn't have a parent to call or get a call from on Christmas.  It was something that reminded me that while life has a time limit on it, it is something that should be enjoyed.

Now I realize, again, that this is all a matter of personal opinion, and no judgements from me if you disagree and feel that a holiday isn't a holiday without a new $3,000 to $5,000 watch on your wrist.  All that I would say is that it should not be the price tag on the watch that moves you or the person who buys it for you.  It should be the thought that goes into it.  Now if that person has the disposable income to make such a grand gesture?  Make sure you appreciate and treasure it, and don't go looking to re-sell it to fund your next "dream watch, and the one after that, and the one after that ; )

Happy Holidays!  And enjoy your watches!

Bodega / G-Shock Drop - Full Video

Here it is, raw and not-too-refined ; )

G-Shock Bodega Drop

So yesterday found me up early, channeling my inner Tinker Hatfield, and heading on down to Bodega in Boston.  For those of you unacquainted, Bodega is a legendary sneaker (and clothing) store here in Boston, but also with a branch in LA.  People travel from around the world to visit, and line up outside for the latest limited edition sneaker and clothing collaborations.  You can check them out digitally here - 

                                                                  Bodega


And in the interest of trying new things, I thought we might add some video elements.  So please forgive the shaky camera work ; )

More to come later this evening!

Michelin Stars for Watch Brands

With many of my colleagues gearing up for the salubrious back-rub known as the SIHH, I found myself reflecting once more on the notion of "watch journalism" and when we take that second word into account - journalism, does it really still exist?  When it comes to watch, luxury and fashion coverage?  Well that is where the lines seem to be constantly (and increasingly) blurred.  

Many brands seem to have "groomed" certain outlets (or perhaps it is the outlet that has groomed them?) to where the outlet has become a bit of an echo chamber for brand's PR and marketing departments.

For some outlets, it is a (sorry) brazenly clear attempt to get whatever they can from the brand in question.  For some brands?  Well, they have the budget and they play in the same pig-pen, so they simply view this as a cost of doing business.  But for the other, smaller brands?  Well it becomes harder and harder to survive.  When the self-described "Shit that Killed Elvis" online outlet demands a free watch or cash payment in exchange for a review of your product BEFORE they even agree to do the review?  Well, it becomes clear that two things are happening -

1.  The outlet is operating from a place of avarice, not information dissemination.

2.  It is highly unlikely that you will be getting any sort of honest review, because it has (to a large extent), been bought and paid for.

And yes, if you're reading this you grasping, rapacious guys and girls, I hope that you are blushing.

And as I sat thinking about all of this, I was jolted back into reality by David Chang's podcast (WHICH I HIGHLY RECOMMEND), in which he and a guest discussed the possibility of evaluating professional athletes on the same scale as the Michelin Guide and I thought if you could do it with basketball players, why not watches?

For those of you unacquainted with Bibendum's guide to fine dining, (and in all honestly I was in that group) as I now understand it, one star signifies "a very good restaurant", two stars are indicative of a restaurant with "excellent cooking that is worth a detour".  And what everyone strives for, the much vaunted three stars?  "Exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey".  And this is not a one and done exercise, as the Michelin Guide is updated every year.

And that other interesting thing that makes the Michelin Guide so intriguing as a review model?  It's anonymous.  Only the publisher's of the guide know who their reviewers were.

Think about that for a moment or two. 

So would it be possible to set up a similar type of system?  Sure it would!  Imagine this:

1.  An independent association is set up that will liaise with both the brands and the journalists/bloggers/influencers out there.  

2.  The Association will work with an ever-evolving and changing group of reviewers.  Many of these will be well-known writers and video personalities.  But just who they are and which group was responsible for reviewing the brand's watch will be unknown.

3.  The people evaluating the watches will be recused from participating in any review of a brand with which they have any sort of relationship beyond neutral.  If they are a "friend of the brand" (which happens, and I am a "friend" of a few), if they are doing any ancillary work for the brand (ditto), they they would not participate in the review process of that particular watch.

4.  At least 3 people would participate in the review, which would be based on "real life/real world" review priorities that would be important to "real people" that might actually "really buy" a watch and "really wear" it.

5.  Each reviewer would send their feedback based on a scoring system previously set forth that would ensure a systemic process that would also ensure anonymity.  

6.  The association would then tabulate the review, provide some summary commentary, and provide the model with a score from 1 - 3 stars.  ASSUMING that the watch merited even the 1 star.  

Now here's the funny part - you could still run this as a service that can charge fees while still remaining independent.   The brands would would pay a nominal fee to participate in the review process.  That fee would cover the shipping and insurance of the watch to be shipped first to the association, then on to the reviewer, then back again.

The association could put out a large format magazine 4 times per year (to ensure a timely presentation of the review).  And they could even sell advertising because, again, there would be no way to enforce a "Pay to Play" model for reviews as they would be anonymous.

And best of all?   It would still leave room for everyone out there currently writing and broadcasting about this stuff.  It would simply offer a different perspective.

Now I can already hear:

"But contests already exist to award and recognize the best!"

Well, again, yes and no.  There are contests that a brand can pay to enter.  And the "great and good" of the watch world will fly to Switzerland, pour themselves into formal wear, and hold forth in a solemn event.  But that is not a review, is it?  It's more of a beauty pageant.

 

 

The Unicorn 2 - Electric Boogaloo!

So it is time to just fess up, I am now a devotee to G-Shock.  I didn't set out for this to happen, but happen it has.

Regular readers will recount that while in Japan, many of us fell under the spell of the GMWB5000D-1, and I came back from Japan empty handed.

I have had a few whiffs of the apple since then, but have held off.  And maybe it was because I knew that this little wrist rocket was in the offing -

Courtesy of CASIO/GShock

This is the GMWB5000GD-1, and while you may think you want it, you don't.  You want to ignore this, you hate this, you can't imagine yourself wearing this, ever!

Did it work?  I was afraid of that!

So, I might have to wait again on this one, but it is beguiling to say the least.

Courtesy of Casio/GShock

Here are the pertinents -

• Shock resistant
• 200m water resistance
• Solar powered
• LED backlight (Super illuminator)
• Full auto LED light, selectable illumination duration (2 seconds or 4 seconds) afterglow
• Time calibration signal reception

20 Years of the Chronomètre à Résonance

20 Years of history is not something every watch model gets a chance to celebrate.  But then again, the Chronomètre à Résonance is not just any watch model.  It has come to symbolize the life's work of François-Paul Journe and the brand that bears his name, F.P. Journe.

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

This version has the usual 12 hour scale on the right hand, but on the left the time is measured and indicated on a 24 hour scale.

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

Available in platinum (above) or 18k rose gold. 

Here are the pertinents -

CHRONOMETRE A RESONANCE
Technical Specifications 

Movement:
Calibre 1499.3 in 18K rose Gold Manual winding / 27 turns of crown

Dimensions:
Overall diameter: 32.60 mm
Casing-up diameter: 32.00 mm
Overall height: 4.20 mm
Height of winding stem: 2.59 mm

Balance:
2 flat microflamed Anachron balance spring
2 mobile stud carriers
2 free sprung balance springs
2 spring laser pinned to Nivatronic collets
Pinned GE studs
Reset to zero button for seconds
Frequency: 21,600v/h, 3Hz
Inertia: 10.10 mg/cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude:
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 320°
24h dial up: > 270°

Main Characteristics:
2 independent linear escapements, 15 teeth
2 independent balances with 4 inertia weights
2 position winding crown
Correction of the hour at 12h: for left dial by winding crown in one direction, and in the opposite direction for right dial
Resetting of the seconds by pulling the button at 4h

Indications:
Double display:
Left analog - indicating 24 hours
Right analog - indicating 12 hours
2 small seconds at 6h
Power reserve at 11h

Power Reserve:
40 hours ± 2 

Case:
Platinum or 18K 6N Gold
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Total height: 9.00 mm

Dial:
18K white or 6N Gold and white Silver guilloche counters

The WYVERN Classic “Petite Seconde” Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

Hours, minutes, small seconds and date at 6 o'clock.

Courtesy of Brellum

The stainless steel case measures 42.5 mm in diameter, and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Courtesy of Brellum

Available in three different dial versions - blue, silver and black.  The movement is an ETA base, COSC certified.

The price is particularly appealing at CHF 1,590 

Here are the pertinents -

CASE:
Stainless steel case, 100m, 10 ATM
 
MOVEMENT:
Caliber BRELLUM BR-895-1 Automatic chronometer, Eta base
Movement Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC

CRYSTAL:
Sapphire crystal BOX shape, anti reflection treatment
Domed blue, sliver or black dial, sunray pattern, with indexes and luminescent material



STRAP:
Hand made genuine black leather strap
Steel deploying buckle with safety push buttons



FUNCTIONS:
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date
Diam. 42.50mm, strap axis to strap axis 44.60mm
Thickness 9.40mm, 10.90mm with domed sapphire crystal

Following Up With NOMOS

A while back I posted an op-ed piece on NOMOS declaring a position to stand against xenophobic, right wing political ideologies and to endeavor to create a safe and secure working environment for their staff where informed, rational discussion can take place.  For those of you joining our regularly scheduled programming late, here is a link to that -

Shut Up and Make Watches: Why You Should Buy a NOMOS

I found it interesting that the majority of the watch media had not picked it up, and still haven't.  I suppose that is a separate conversation for another day.  

I have received some feedback that in some ways surprised me - people who questioned why I cared about this, what my "agenda" was, etc.  On a side note, I got the same sort of "smug" retort from a well-known watch journalist who posted a fairly racist, and derogatory cartoon, responding "Well, I don't think it's racist".  That's as well may be, but... sometimes you gotta' call bullshit.  And for me, this is one of those times.  I am confident that this guy's vague understanding of racial diversity & disparity will be malleable enough to ensure he can still enjoy the next press junket, complete with all the trimmings without any discomfort ; )

But enough about me, let's get back to the topic at hand, which is NOMOS and how they are moving forward with their day to day while they work internally to promote equality and understanding in their company.  Judith Borowski, the creative director at NOMOS Glashütte was kind enough to answer some of my questions, and you can find that below.  

In addition, at the very end of this brief interview, you will find the text from an open letter from NOMOS which could be thought of as a "statement of principles".

Tempus Fugit - 

We are clearly living in strange times.  While I personally have had a policy of speaking honestly about political, racial and social issues, Tempus Fugit is an independent outlet, and not dependent upon advertising money.  NOMOS does not necessarily have the same flexibility as it is a business dependent upon customers (retail and independent) journalists and influencers to support the brand.  What has the reaction to your efforts been from these various segments?

Judith Borowski -

The reaction from customers and the media to our public stance has been mixed in Germany, but overwhelmingly positive abroad. NOMOS Glashütte is not an organization on the left or the right of the political spectrum, but we do want to promote values that are important to us. After all, we sell watches to customers around the world and we want to promote a culture within NOMOS Glashütte that is tolerant and open-minded. As an independent company, we are not part of any larger corporation—and therefore free to make our own decisions when it comes to these types of issues.

TF -

Here in the US we are also experiencing a sharp uptick in right-wing groups, and regrettably a clear shift in terms of a blurred line between acceptable discourse and outright hate speech.  Companies that have picked a side have received a fair bit of abuse from the opposing side, losing business (and in some instances gaining new customers as well).  Have you seen a shift in your business one way or the other?

JB -

NOMOS Glashütte is a company that has enjoyed strong growth in recent years. For that reason, it is hard to say whether our public stance has had a negative impact on sales; perhaps we could have grown even further—but that is purely speculation. Of course, our position on political developments in Saxony has not been welcomed by everyone. We may have made some enemies, but we have also received a great deal of support. 

TF -

Obviously a company is headed by directors, but it is made up of all of its employees.  How have the staff at NOMOS reacted to the clear message that has been put forward by the management?

JB -

We want to offer support to our employees by giving them the tools and information they need to counteract right-wing polemics. It is our way of stopping politics and public sentiment in Saxony from moving further towards the right, and response from our employees has been very positive. That said, we are not a political party or political institution; we are, first and foremost, a watch manufacturer.

TF - 

How did NOMOS get acquainted with Courage's program?  How has the response been?

JB -

It took us a while to find the right partner to hold our workshops. The Courage association offers political education seminars, and since spring of this year we have been collaborating with them to offer one-day training sessions for our employees. The whole thing started as a pilot project, which means that our feedback has helped shape the content and format of the workshop. The trainers from Courage present strategies for fact-checking arguments that are commonly used by advocates of AfD (Alternative for Germany) and the right-wing movement Pegida, as well as debate training to give participants the skills to challenge right-wing views. This training can also be used to identify extremist ideas, counteract racist views, and to engage in political discussions with friends and family. The feedback so far has been overwhelmingly positive, and there has been a great deal of interest among our employees in attending these voluntary workshops—spaces are currently booked out until March 2019.

TF -

In many ways we are living in a very challenging moment in time, but in many ways this seems to be creating a lot of new opportunities for business leaders to be more socially involved.  Do you feel that this might be an opportunity for NOMOS to be seen as a definitively positive corporate citizen?

JB -

It is not easy to take a public stance on hot-button issues—and in any case, we are a business, not a political organization. We see it more as our civic responsibility; we do not want to just stand by and watch these developments as they unfold. We feel morally obligated to make our voice heard with the public statement: “Stop! This is where we draw the line.” We cannot say whether this decision makes us a positive example for others—but we can say that many other business leaders in Saxony are interested in offering similar workshops, and that when we speak to them, they say the impulse for their interest came from press coverage of our work.

TF -

If there is any lesson to be learned through all of this, what would it be?

JB -

We want to show that Saxony is a German state with a diverse range of voices—and that at NOMOS Glashütte, democracy is something that we truly value. After all, in 1989 there were pro-democracy demonstrations here. Without those demonstrations, without the Fall of the Berlin Wall and the subsequent democratic regime, NOMOS Glashütte could not have been founded. That is why we feel that some problems cannot be restricted to the political sphere, and that we all need to share responsibility so that we as a society are not doomed to repeat our mistakes.

                                                                  Glashütte, December 2018

Open Letter from NOMOS Management on the Situation in Saxony - and the Principles of NOMOS Glashütte

(adapted and updated from the German original published in September 2018)

As the year draws to a close, we would like to inform our friends abroad about an issue we have faced in recent months that has attracted attention—and criticism—in Germany. We manufacture our mechanical timepieces in Glashütte, in the state of Saxony in eastern Germany. Our workshops are not far from Chemnitz, which was the site of far- right protests and open attacks on refugees that erupted in late August of this year.

As an independent manufacturer, it is not our job to set a political agenda. But our values do not permit us to step aside and watch the process of radicalization that has gained a foothold in our region and our home. We condemn all forms of hate and violence—in no uncertain terms. We believe in our democracy and we are ready to defend its principles both in word and deed.

Given these events and guided by our principles, we decided to offer workshops to our employees, the first of which was held on October 23, 2018. In these day-long “Open Saxony” workshops, external experts from the “Courage” organization discuss forms of discrimination, provide factual information on immigration, and role-play scenarios for confronting people with opinions that differ from their own—in whatever form.

Dealing with extremists can be unsettling, we want to arm our employees with information so that—if they wish—they feel at least well-prepared to speak up (or out) and make a difference. Some people in our country have accused NOMOS Glashütte of political indoctrination that harks back to the Stasi era. Nothing could be further from the truth. All of our workshops are completely voluntary and in no way supervised by management. Our primary goal is to give our employee tools to evaluate facts and engage in open, meaningful, and respectful debate.

We believe it is our common duty to defend the democracy which our fellow citizens in Saxony (and elsewhere) fought so hard to achieve in 1989. Without the German reunification, without freedom and democracy, Glashütte would not be the same town that we know and love, nor would it be possible to manufacture our fine mechanical watches as we do here today.

Furthermore, we stand in solidarity with our employees—our colleagues—whom many on the far right do not accept for any number of reasons. We say no matter what your skin color, your sexual orientation, your age, or your religious affiliation may be, you are all welcome here.

NOMOS Glashütte is neither to the right or left of the political spectrum; but we do stand for democracy, a global mindset, and tolerance. Racism and intolerance have no place in our company.

Sincerely,
NOMOS Management


Roland Schwertner    Uwe Ahrendt    Judith Borowski

Holiday Repeat: The Watch-o-Matic!

The Watch-o-Matic!

It slices, it dices, it's the last watch you'll ever buy!

The difference between Ron Popeil and some watch executives might be only a passport ; )

For those of you unfamiliar, Ron Popeil is the man behind Ronco -

Courtesy of the world-wide info-web

Now I want to start this out by saying that I actually have the highest respect for Mr. Popeil as both an inventor of stuff we really didn't want or need, and more importantly, convincing us that we couldn't possibly live without it.  The man could sell.

Steve Jobs had his Reality Distortion Field, per Wikipedia:

this was said to be Steve Jobs's ability to convince himself and others to believe almost anything with a mix of charm, charisma, bravado, hyperbole, marketing, appeasement and persistence. RDF was said to distort an audience's sense of proportion and scales of difficulties and made them believe that the task at hand was possible. Jobs could also use the RDF to appropriate other's ideas as his own, sometimes proposing an idea to its originator after dismissing it the week before.^[3]

Does this sound like some people we know?

What sort of got me caught up in this theme yesterday and today was reflecting on the "miracle" of Tag Heuer's Connected watch and the Reality Distortion Field that was spun around it.  After first poo-pooing the Apple Watch, Mr. Popeil's possible "brother from another mother" announced that, in fact, smart or connected watches were, in fact, GOOD!  Not only that, his brand would be offering one!  

As I've said before, the idea of a connected watch is not in and of itself not so crazy.  But it is a question of how many features can you actually use (really use) in a smart watch?  

For better or worse, there are only so many features you can put into a wrist bound Tamagotchi -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info-net

How many features, realistically, are worth having in a connected watch?

The Apple watch has proven itself to be a bit of a unique outlier.  Yes, it offers a ton of different features that may, or may not work well in a wrist-bound environment.  But this is not what really drives the sales of the Apple watch.  What drives the sales of the Apple watch is Apple itself.  It is a strong aphrodisiac.  It is why many people, including me, will spend MORE for an iPhone, Mac or iPad than those in the Windows tribe.  I have tried an Apple watch, and it was not quite the revelatory experience for me that it clearly has been for others.  And I LOVE Apple stuff.  But for me it was just too much.

As an experiment I tried a Withings watch and found it to be too far in the other direction - it was supposed to give time, a wake up alarm and a step counter.  The alarm did not work as advertised, the step counter did not count correctly.  It was a disappointment. 

And then we have the watch world's two notable entries - Tag Heuer's connected watch, and the offering from Frederique Constant / Alpina / Mondaine.  While the Tag Heuer offering provides all of the promise of the Apple watch, it is significantly more expensive.  And apart from the big displays at BaselWorld, I have never seen a Tag Heuer connected watch "in the wild", despite the exclamations of large sales numbers.  And the same could be said for the FC/Alpina/Mondaine offerings in terms of actual visibility.  

More than anything, regardless of what technology firm they partner with, the watch brands are now competing in a different arena.  And it is one with a lot more price sensitivity, and a requirement to evolve and innovate at a much faster pace than they are used to.  So it becomes, and will continue to be, a never ending game of catch-up.

The brands that keep the functionality actually functional have the best opportunity to grab market share.  BUT, and it is a big but, they have to put the price of the watch at a level that the market will bear.  What the Fit Bit boom underscored is that there are functional aspects that people want and will pay for.  But when we delve into just how many features they want on their wrist and just how much they will pay for it?  Well that becomes a different matter.

This is another case of less having the potential for being more.  Find four or five functions, stick with them, and make them perform perfectly.  But in addition, produce and sell it at a price point that the market will bear.  This is the other thing that Apple figured out that everyone else is still struggling with.

So we shall wait, and we shall see.