Angular Momentum & Manu Propria - AXIS Handwinder

This just in from Angular Momentum -

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

And here are the details, straight from Angular Momentum -

AXIS Handwinder

Three-body Staybrite steel case with polished bezel and satin finished sides, polished down-turned lugs, curved 3.00 mm spphire crystal, historical hand-winding movement caliber FHF 96, 17 jewels, 18'000A/h, 48 hours power reserve, black lacquered dial with luminous hour markers, hours shown by Revolving Disk with polished metal numbers, luminous minute hand, leather strap, case diameter 42.00 mm. Completely hand made in small serials in the atelier in Switzerland

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

www.angularmomentum.com

A re-run - Jean-Michel Cousteau is "all wet"

This originally ran on May 6th of last year, but it is a pretty good interview and I thought I might put it out there again. 

© Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift?

Is there a story behind it?


Jean-Michel Cousteau – I don’t remember exactly. But I can tell you that when I was a kid, watches were different. They were valuable, expensive – special! You received one at a certain age, and you held onto it forever. It was only later that I realized the importance of a good diving watch. One that would not only tell you the time, but keep the water out.

But things have definitely changed. I think for both watches and the concept of time. I feel that young people today do not appreciate the value of a single watch – just as we do not value our time on this planet to the fullest.

© Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

JH – What do you mean by that?



JMC – We are spoiled today. We are wasteful. Today we are in such a hurry to buy things, to consume things that we don’t need (and probably don’t really even want)! This doesn’t mean that the standard of living has improved – because in a lot of ways it really hasn’t! Consider for a moment how much we waste – you live here in Santa Barbara, as I do. You know the homeless people who go through our trash, our recycling, and take the bottles and cans to the recycling center to get money? I think those guys are great! As odd as it sounds, they are helping to keep the city clean.



JH - Where did you go to school, what did you study?


JMC – I studied architecture in Paris. And now many years later I am still waiting for my first “commission” 55 years later! But I am a licensed architect. After that, I worked in a shipyard in Brittany because what my real goal was something different than merely building houses and offices. You see, from the time I was a kid, my brother and I were always in the water. We were “wet” at a very early age! 

© Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

JH – Well, given your famous father’s profession, had you ever considered doing something else?



JMC – I think not really – BUT – I will say that what I do today is a true evolution. I studied architecture with the idea of combining it with life in the ocean – that the future was (and will be) closely linked to the sea. This, in turn, led me to working at the shipyard in Brittany, because I wanted to better understand the nature of structures for the water. But I must say that my father in many ways was my greatest teacher. He was invaluable in helping me work in and produce film and television. Just as in architecture, each project has a beginning, a middle, and an end.



JH - Ocean Futures continues to grow and evolve - obviously a great deal of this is tied in with you and your family's efforts. What does the future hold?



JMC – I am fortunate that my children are involved, but more than this I feel that we have created a strong foundation for others to continue our work. As the population of the earth continues to grow, it is more and more apparent that our quality of life is strongly connected to the health of our planet. And the health of the planet is inseparable from the health of the oceans.



JH - What are some of the biggest challenges you currently face?


JMC – Funding. It is ironic, because people hear, or read the name Cousteau, and feel that we must be rich and that money is no problem. In many ways, the name Cousteau works against us. So I have to be out there, giving lectures, promoting the work of the organization. The single biggest way for us to promote our work is through images – be they video or photographs. To this end, we work tirelessly to compile as many images as possible.


Another challenge for us is education – but this is a challenge that we embrace! We need to get the kids “WET”. We need to introduce them underwater life – whether it’s the ocean, a river or a lake. We need to challenge the young people’s sense of curiosity and adventure.




JH – Okay, as this is a watch blog – favorite all-time dive watch?


JMC – When I started diving there were only a few companies that made true diving watches. Today, there are many choices and we are lucky that several companies have supported us over the years. I did design a watch made literally of recycled materials. It was manufactured for a short time but is no longer available.





JH - Being based in Santa Barbara, I imagine that you enjoy fairly consistent conditions for diving? If you can recall, what is one of your most challening/difficult dives?


JMC – There has been one dive in 67 years that really stands out for me. I was diving in a cave, and I suddenly realized that I would run out of air before I could surface. But – I did not panic. I motioned to my dive “buddy” and we were able to “buddy breath”. This was in Papua New Guinea in 1982 or 1983.





JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?


JMC – This is the truth – either an astronaut or a farmer! That would really be great if I could have “three lives”. The sea, the land, and space!




JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Jean Michel Cousteau?


JMC – There truly are no “typical” days and this is what keeps things interesting! For all of us here at Ocean Futures, there are constant surprises and challenges to adapt to.





JH - What do you like to do in your spare time?


JMC – What is “spare time”? (laughs).


© Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

JH - Who is the next "Cousteau" out there?



JMC – There are many out there! And luckily – they don’t have to be Cousteaus!



Get Wet with Ocean Futures -



http://www.oceanfutures.org/







A New MANU PROPRIA Artisan Timepiece Case

Courtesy of Manu Propia/Angular Momentum

Angular Momentum has added a new MANU PROPRIA Artisan Timepiece case type to its collection.

Courtesy of Manu Propia/Angular Momentum

41.60 mm 1.4435NcU Staybrite watch case with polished bezel and satin brushed sides, pavé set with 1.500 ct. TW VVS diamonds, historical hand-winding movement.

Courtesy of Manu Propia/Angular Momentum

The Art meets Art timepieces are made with either Verre Églomisé miniature painting on the reverse of the sapphire crystal with digital time display or with a miniature painting on the reverse of the sapphire dial with analogue time display by hands.

www.angularmomentum.com

On the street in Santa Barbara - Comfort Food

Well, not so much on the street as in a store where I bumped into this gentleman wearing a Rolex Datejust.

To meet this fellow, you would understand why this watch is such a perfect fit for him.  He can speak with you extensively on mid-century modern design, in such a way that you KNOW that he GETS it.  Knowledgeable without being intimidating or condescending - a nice guy to have an actual conversation with.  We got to talking about Eames, and Danish modern furniture.  I have never heard someone describe an Eames chair as "comfort food", but the minute he said it, it immediately made sense!  With those two words, he truly explained what for those of us who write about watches realize is the unexplainable.  As a watch enthusiast, it is too easy for us to go to the simple/rote answer:  Haute, manufacture, years of tradition, blah-blah-blah.  But "comfort food" really hit the mark for me.  Nothing we need to sustain us "nutritionally", but nonetheless something that we crave for reasons we cannot always adequately explain.

So, take time out today for some "comfort food"!

Audi Italia and Eberhard Rule the Waves!

Sorry Britannia!  It would seem that there is a new contender for ocean supremacy!

The “AUDI ITALIA SAILING TEAM SUPPORTED BY EBERHARD & CO.”
not only participated - no they dominated and won the Kieler Woche!

Courtesy of Audi

Here's the news, straight from Eberhard -

Kiel, 21 June 2012 – The Melges 24 Audi-Eberhard, skippered by Riccardo Simoneschi, intent on rounding the buoys of the Kieler Woche, stayed in the lead for the three days of the competition and, achieving a “clear round”, triumphed once again. Eberhard & Co., the partner of the Audi Italia Sailing Team for the whole 2012 sailing season, is pleased to announce this new victory, which is particularly important for the international sailing calendar, as it is valid for the ranking list of the Melges 24 class.

Courtesy of Eberhard

“We strongly believe in this Team which, leg after leg, upholds our choices and our close partnership with Audi”, commented Mario Peserico, Managing Director of Eberhard Italia. A consistent pathway for the company, which shares the same values as Audi: innovation, research and performance.

The Italian crew, with its sail signed Audi-Eberhard, were at the fore in all eleven trials, despite the challenging weather conditions, leaving the second and third-placed teams behind by 16 and 49 lengths respectively. A superb victory, which was the upshot of good starts, Riccardo Simoneschi’s excellent management and the professionalism of his efficient, close-knit crew.

Courtesy of Eberhard

For the company from Bienne as for the Team it supports, this is a year of particularly important challenges and goals; Eberhard & Co., is in fact celebrating its 125th anniversary and is doing it with the best result of its expertise: the “Extra-fort Roue à Colonnes Grande Date 125ème Anniversaire” which has been specially created for the occasion.

An exclusive model, produced in a limited edition - 500 pieces for the steel version and 125 for the gold version. The chronograph stands out for its perfect combination of technical brilliance, as found in the column wheel controlling the chronographical functions of the mechanical self-winding movement, and aesthetic refinement. Over the past 125 years the company has never stopped looking to the future, giving life to innovative creations while at the same time being receptive to the richness of its history.

 www.eberhard-co-watches.com

Congratulations to François Quentin!

A big congratulations to François Quentin and the team at 4N!

Their timepiece is now available!

Courtesy of 4N

And for those of you who like to see things "in action" - check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcyBJ_4LeZ0&feature=plcp

So I've joined a cult - wrapping up the Glycine Airman MLV

Okay, it has now been 15 days, and it's time to sum up the Airman MLV.  I should start by saying that in all honesty, I was not sure what to expect from the Glycine Airman.  Sure, I had seen them, held them, and certainly talked about them - but I have never actually worn one.

I have read and enjoyed Andre Strikker's excellent History - GLYCINE AIRMAN a 24-hour timeline of flight and this gave me a great grounding.

And what this book really drives home is how the Glycine Airman has created such a devoted following around the world.

If you haven't had a chance, get your hands on a copy of it, it is a fantastic book!

But enough of the past, let's get back to the present!

The Airman MLV is based on Glycine's Airman Base 22.  So that we have a baseline of information, here are the stats courtesy of Glycine:

Airman Base 22 

Movement
Caliber: ETA 2893-2 automatic
Functions: hours, minutes and seconds, 24hours hand, date display in window
Size: 11 1/2"
Jewels: 21
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Hz: 4/28'800 vibrations per hour
Finish: oscillating weight on ball bearing is rhodium coated, decorated "Côtes de Genève", and bears the engraving of an airplane.

Case, Dial & Hands
Material: stainless steel
Diameter: 42mm without crown
Height: 11.20mm with see-through back
Finish: satin/polished
Waterproof: 20 atm
Back: screwed see-through mineral glass
Glass: sapphire AR
Dial: LUME (my edit)
Hands: BLACK (my edit)
Crown: screw-down

Special features
topring is positioned by a spacer system at 4h hatched crown (design early 50s)
GMT Version (4 hands, three time zones)

Leather strap
Material: calf
Colours: black
Width: 22mm Lug width

The size and balance of the MLV is JUST RIGHT!  At 42 mm in diameter, you can never be sure, but there is a nice curve of the lug that allows the watch to sit nicely on the wrist.

And while I am on the topic of comfort - big PROPS to the design team - the locking crown for adjusting the outer 24 hour bezel is big enough to be tactile, but not large for the sake of ornamentation.    It is a wonderfully simple mechanism that works flawlessly, even when wearing the watch.  

The strap with buckle are a triumph of simplicity over ostentation.  This strap strikes exactly the right balance.  Not too big at 22 mm.  The white stitching strikes just the right note - this is after all a sporty watch of sorts.  The leather is thick - but not oppressively so.  It is all in balance. 

The finish work on the case ensures a very comfortable wearing experience.  Smooth and slightly rounded, the MLV is comfortable all day long.

The finish and attention to detail is again in evidence with the detail work on the rotor.  All too often we see a display back with, well, a very plain "picture".  But Glycine figured, if your going to have a display back, why not display something?  The Glycine Airman legend is accompanied by the image of an airplane propeller.

The timekeeping has been first rate.  Over 15 days the greatest deviation I experienced was + 6 seconds, first rate for a watch at this price-point.

But let's be honest - what really makes this watch exciting for most of you is the lume.  So last, but by no means least -

I think that this speaks for itself.  Bright, and despite my shaky camera hand, very legible.  And the GMT features remain clear and easy to read.  I would also really make the case for the practicality of the lume.  Unlike so many lume efforts - this one WORKS!  And without the need to "charge" it by holding it under direct light.  I will be completely honest that I did not expect nearly such a good effect, but the proof is here!

So Glycine, you have a new member of the Airman Cult!  I will be saving my pennies to add an Airman of my own, but this one, sadly, must get on a plane to go home tomorrow.

For those of you on the fence about the Airman - FLY to your retail location to get one - you will not regret it!

www.glycine-watch.ch

Porsche Design P’6540 Heritage Chronograph

This is a new limited edition from Porsche Design - the P'6540.  This limited edition watch also includes a pair of the P'8478 sunglasses.  

Courtesy of Porsche Design

The perfect way to commemorate and celebrate a 40th anniversary of Porsche Design.

The anniversary set is limited to 911 pieces world-wide. 

Courtesy of Porsche Design

Movement/Functions: Calibre ETA Valjoux 7750; automatic chronograph; hour, minute and second hands; date; 48-hour power reserve; 28,800 A/h; 25 jewels; 30-mm diameter (13 ••• lines); Porsche Design rotor. 

Dial/Hands: black, weekday and date indication at 3 o’clock; 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock; 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock; subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock; black chronograph counter; white chronograph hand; white baton indices painted with white luminescent material; white sweep hour and minute hands; red sweep second hand; white tachymeter scale on the dial. 

Case/Back: shot-blasted titanium case; titanium push pieces and crown; anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal; screwed case back; water-resistant to 100 metres (10 ATM); diameter 40.5 mm. 

Strap / Clasp: shot-blasted titanium; folding clasp. 

Limited edition: Limited to 911 numbered pieces 

www.porsche-design.com

BOVET and Vicente Del Bosque

Courtesy of Bovet

BOVET and Vicente Del Bosque reunited to conquer Europe

Poland and the Ukraine join together to host the Euro 2012 from June 8th to July 1st. During this battle among Europe’s top national teams, BOVET will be present thanks to its friend and ambassador Vicente del Bosque.

www.bovet.com

Don't Be Afraid of the Dark!

Okay - this is the post I've really been waiting for! This is the Airman MLV in TOTAL BLACK OUT!

How often do you get excited about the promised luminescent qualities of a particular watch, only to be disappointed when the lights go out?  How often do you read in the instruction manual "hold the watch face under a strong light source for 35 seconds and ..."?  Honestly, is this part of your daily routine?  To park your arm under a flash light to charge watch lume?  Really?!

That is just WRONG-HEADED!  Well, the folks at Glycine are clearly RIGHT-HEADED!  The lume on the dial of the MLV glows like a torch as soon as you walk into a dark area.  No "pre-heating" required.  This is practical, because, in all honesty, do you generally travel around with a high-powered flashlight at any given time?  Police, fire and rescue workers notwithstanding, I feel the safe answer is no.  We live in the real world, and it is very clear that Glycine took this into account.  No-nonsense, performs exactly as advertised!

I wrap-up my review of the Airman MLV tomorrow - stay tuned!

First the KonTiki, then the Tangaroa

As someone who writes about watches, it never fails to amaze me how little I really know.  As many readers will know, I LOVE Eterna - and the KonTiki and its story hold a special place in my "horological archives". 

But the "sequel" to the tale of the KonTiki is one that often gets glossed-over, or flat out ignored - the Tangaroa. 

In 2006, another South Pacific ocean voyage took place, this time the vessel was constructed of Balsawood, and the goal of the expedition was to develop a better undertanding of the current state of the South Pacific's waters.

Particpating and commemorating is a time honored tradition for Eterna, and the Tangaroa is no exception.
Currently available in a three hand time/date model, and a moonphase chronograph.  This is the perfect addition for those KonTiki owners out there.

Here is a blog of the expedition -

http://tangaroa.nettblogg.no/english.html

Tangaroa Three -Hands
Photo Courtesy of Eterna

And for those of you out there who enjoy the "TECH SPECS" here they are, straight from Grenchen!

Technical specifications:

Movement: Sellita calibre SW 200-1; self-winding mechanical movement; 38-hour power reserve; 28,800 vph; 26 jewels; diameter 25.6 mm (11 ½ lines); hours, minutes and seconds, date display.

Dial/hands: black; rhodium-plated baton hour markers; rhodium-plated centred hour, minute and seconds; seconds scale on the flange; date aperture at 3 o’clock.

Case/back: polished and satin-finished stainless steel case; anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal; screwed-in case back with sapphire crystal opening; water-resistant to 50 m (5 bar) / ~ 165 feet; diameter 42 mm; height 10.8 mm.

Bracelet/clasp: black leather with polished and satin-finished stainless steel pin buckle.


Tangaroa Moonphase Chronograph
Photo courtesy of Eterna

Technical specifications:

Movement: ETA Valjoux calibre 7751; self-winding mechanical movement with chronograph functions; 48-hour power reserve; 28,800 vph; 25 jewels; diameter 30 mm (13 ¼ lines), hours, minutes and seconds, date, day of the week, month and moonphase display.

Dial/hands: silver, rhodium-plated dot hour markers coated with white luminous material; black minute track and date indication; blued hour and minute hands coated with white luminous material; blued centred date with red sickle; blued centred chronograph seconds; blued 30-minute totaliser at 12 o’clock; blued continuous seconds and 24-hour display coated with white luminous material at 9 o’clock; moon phase calendar for northern and southern hemisphere at 6 o’clock.

Case/back: round-shaped polished and satin-finished stainless steel case; anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal; screwed-in case back with sapphire crystal opening; water-resistant to 50 m (5 bar) / ~ 165 feet; diameter 42 mm; height 13.95 mm.

Bracelet/clasp: polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp.



www.eterna.ch 

Strapping in the Airman

Straps - today it seems that there is either far too much, or far too little attention paid to the one item that ensures your watch will stay on your wrist. In some cases there is the belief that the strap must be crafted from a nearly extinct reptile, hand stitched by elves in a forbidden forrest... or that it must be so manly it would make arnold schwarzenegger blush.

Descriptons such as "lovingly hand crafted by artisans" to "tough enough to fight any battle" - ENOUGH!
How about a sane, rational and appropriate approach? Thank you Glycine!

A nice, branded (or embossed) logo on one of the strap loops, and a solid, funtional buckle bearing the Glycine name.

The strap also bears the name - AIRMAN. The finishing of the strap is first rate - the leather is smooth and flexible, not hard and tough. The white accent stitching is the perfect counter balance to the size of the strap. This is not an insubstantial strap with a 22mm lug width. But it is not big for big's sake. It is the right counter point to the proportions of the watch.

And most of all, it is a very comfortable strap to wear. The buckle is large enough to operate smoothly, but not so large that it over crowds the strap. Moreover, it is smooth and sits nice and flat along the underside of the wrist.

In all honesty, I was not sure how I'd feel about the strap when I first saw the Airman at BaselWorld, and later Las Vegas, but I must admit that I have grown very, very fond of it.

I've only got a few days left, and the next post promises to be illuminating!

Stay tuned!

The S*&T a that killed Elvis!

Okay, many of you know that I lived in San Francisco before moving down with my AMAZING wife, Wendy, to Santa Barbara.  The ULTIMATE watch man in San Francisco was Francis at Saragens.  He had a phrase to describe that which could not be described in watches - what I sometimes refer to as "unobtainium", for when Francis wanted to hip you to why a certain watch had it, he would take it out of the case, lay it on the counter and proclaim - "And this, this is the Sh__ that killed Elvis!"

Francis, you died far sooner than you should have.  You were smart, charming - a raconteur, but a benevolent one.   I do not write a post about a watch these days, where I do not take a few moments and seriously consider how you would have described it.  So this is for you -

Courtesy of Hautlence

This is the latest from Hautlence - the HL^C 06.


41 mm, and limited to 88 pieces.  

Enjoy your watches!

An Early Christmas Wish

Okay, you meet some people, you get to know them (at least a little), and suddenly you find yourself wrapped-up in their dreams. Over the past two years, I have had the opportunity to get to know the folks at Hanhart - Marketing Dynamo - Extraordinaire Gabriela Vonmalaise, and recently Tobias Bamert and the new head of US operations Anthony Siragusa, and of course Thomas Morf.

And they have shared some wonderful visions. But only a fellow-Hanhart fan could really convey the magic to me -

So that we're clear, this photo is courtesy of Sergio Frei - a singular Hanhart believer.


A fellow blogger put out the idea to another company to recreate a piece from the past.  Maybe Hanhart might be able to conjure some further magic -


Is a beautiful Pocket -Chronograph in our future?  It could convince me to wear a jacket on a more regular basis!

A Special Night in Beverly Hills for Girard-Perregaux

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

Warren Beatty was honored by Girard-Perregaux and  presented with
a limited edition “Beverly Hills Hotel” timepiece for his support and role
in the success of The Motion Picture & Television Fund.  The 1966 Beverly
Hills Hotel limited edition watch was created in honor of the 100th
anniversary.  It has the option of choosing between a rose or white gold
case and features a black alligator strap with a pink underside and pink
second hand in honor of the “Pink Palace”.  The case houses a
Girard-Perregaux automatic manufacture movement and a special engraving on
the back: “Beverly Hills Hotel- 100th Anniversary SPECIAL EDITION”.

The rose gold watch retails for $14,900 and the white gold version retails
for $15,340.


www.girard-perregaux.com

FREELANCER URBAN BLACK - Raymond Weil

This just in from Raymond Weil -

Courtesy of Raymond Weil

Striking and seductive, a note of black color has just appeared on RAYMOND WEIL’s musical score.  Through its modernism, the first freelancer model in black PVD, the freelancer Urban Black, serves as a window to the future of the collection.  This new watchmaking instrument plunges us into a universe of intense urban sophistication for a brief moment, like the pause between notes. 

Freelancer – whose name recalls that the Swiss Brand is one of the last independent watchmaking companies – has not stopped evolving over the years.  Whatever its attractions, the collection distinguishes itself by its both elegant and relaxed appearance, its characteristic, beveled horns that are completely different from all the others, and the graphic application of its screws.  As the collection’s icon, the chronograph has reinvented itself over the years with its various dials, hands and bracelets, while always searching in the same innovational and avant-garde direction. 

In 2012, the chronograph has coated its 42mm case in black PVD.  Its black, galvanic, opaline dial has 8 luminescent Arabic numerals with silver-powdered edges.  The style is eye-catching, just like the powerful garnet red of the chronograph’s tachometer numbers and hands.  The screws, the collection’s recurring graphic symbols, anchor the applique securely around the date aperture, traditionally displaying three days.  Two small counters provide the ultimate details of a dial with completely revised parameters – the 30 minutes at 12 o’clock and the 12 hours at 6 o’clock – boldly truncated in the area surrounding the seconds counter at 9 o’clock, which is itself slightly smaller.  In contrast with the dial’s modern, graphic features, the case back is transparent and reveals the throbbing mechanical heart of the timekeeper, equipped with 25 rubies and a power reserve of 46 hours.  For its part, the oscillating weight is embellished in black for the occasion.  Finally, the extreme hardness of the PVD coating the case and folding clasp contrasts with the softness of the strap’s semi-matt, black calfskin.  Elegance and comfort. 

www.raymond-weil.com

Two Eberhard pieces nominated for Watch of the Year

Eberhard announced today that two of its pieces have been nominated for Watch of the Year, which is organized by 00/24 WatchWorld.

Courtesy of Eberhard

The Chrono4 Grande Taille 10ème Anniversaire was one selection.  Here are some details on the Chrono4 Grande Taille 10ème Anniversaire courtesy of Chronometers.org - http://www.chronometers.org/

10ème Anniversaire -
Movement:
Calibre EB. 250-C4 12 ½” – basis ETA 2894
mechanical chronograph with automatic winding device by Eberhard & Co.,
Patented, 4 counters arranged in a row: 
minutes, hours, 24 hours and small seconds – date. 53 rubies

Case:
Stainless steel, 43 mm diameter, 13.32 mm thick, polished bezel, water resistant to 50 meters, 20 mm lug width

Case back:
Polished – flat with bevel – secured by 8 screws, with engravings: 2001-2011. 10 ans de Chrono 4

Push buttons:
Stainless steel

Crown:
Stainless steel, screw-in, water-resistant

Glass:
Sapphire, domed, anti-reflective

Hands:
Sword-shaped skeleton with luminescent ends

Strap:
Rubber

Courtesy of Eberhard

And the Gilda Floral was also selected to take part in the competition.


www.eberhard-co-watches.ch

The Airman MLV - a true world timer

Okay, so I am now in the final five days of my 15 day review.  And today's update is about ease of use.
As you can probably imagine, I get to play with a lot of other people's watches.  And owing to this, I have a fair number of opportunities to try out the functionality of a given complication.

In the case of the Airman MLV I can truly say that the additional time zone features are truly functional, uncomplicated complications!  This particular model of Airman operates on a standard 12 hour system for the main time, with a GMT feature (the red hand).  What I particularly like is the outer rotating bezel.  This indicates an additional time zone in a 24 hour scale.  The bezel itself is a bidirectional.  This is pretty standard for many other GMT watches, and many of them do not have a "clicking" bezel.  The Airman's bezel does not click, but thanks to the bezel locking crown, it does not need to!

Bezel lock open

Locking and unlocking the bezel couldn't be easier.  The crown is nice and tactile, and can be operated with very little difficulty - even while wearing the watch - and yes, I can attest to this personally.

Bezel lock closed

One of the bigger frustrations a multi-time zone watch can present is the ease with which you can undo or lose your chosen time zones. Not so with the Airman! All of your selected time zones are quite literally, "locked in"!

And unlike some other GMT watches out there, the crowns themselves are in proportion to the watch.  They are not inordinately large or bulky.  They are not "chunky" for the sake of looking "tough".

It often comes back to this for me - that the most elegant solution is, when you get right down to it, often times the most straight forward.

We had a wee variance over the weekend in time keeping - yesterday we were + 2 seconds.

We have a few days left, and wear your sunglasses for the next installment!

Breguet Inaugurates Exhibit of Vintage Aviation Timepieces on Board The Intrepid

June 15, 2012—New York, NY. Breguet, the world’s most prestigious watch brand, continues to highlight the legacy of its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet (“A.-L. Breguet”) with an exhibit entitled: “Breguet: Watchmaker, Aviator, Innovator.” celebrating a century in aviation inspired timepieces.

Photo courtesy of Breguet and Camilo Munar 

The exhibition launched on Flag Day, June 14^th, under the New York City skyline against the backdrop of a fleet of fighter planes on board the deck of The Intrepid. A cocktail reception unveiling the exhibit was hosted by the Board of Montres Breguet represented by Mr. Rodolphe Schulthess, VP of Global Sales, Mr. Jean-Charles Zufferey, Head of Marketing and Mr. Michael Nelson, Breguet USA Brand President. Over 300 guests were treated to a private viewing of the exhibit and a sneak peak of the Space Shuttle Enterprise. VIP guests included Mr. Floyd Cardoz, winner, Top Chef Masters and preferred clients.

Photo courtesy of Breguet and Camilo Munar

The evening was amplified by an expansive display of 26 Breguet watches, including 10 vintage timepieces on display for the first time in the U.S.

Starting in New York City, Breguet embarks on a two month tour that traces the history of Breguet in aviation and showcases the brand's legacy of innovation with a variety of historical timepieces including the original Breguet Type XX, and Breguet’s 10Hz technology which is integrated into the Type XXII.  

Breguet’s most celebrated clients included Napoleon, Marie-Antoinette and Winston Churchill to name a few. His extraordinary talents were undoubtedly passed down to his descendants, namely his great-great grandson Louis-Charles, who turned his talents to the fledgling world of Aviation.

The evolution of the clock is closely linked to the development of long distance transportation. During the age of A.-L. Breguet, it was ship and sea travel that influenced innovation. In 1815, A.-L. Breguet developed the marine chronometer that helped usher in a more efficient age of sea travel. The invention was adopted by the French Navy, and Breguet was appointed “Horloger de la Marine Royal" (watchmaker to the Royal Navy).

By the beginning of the 20th century, the demands of the sea gave way to the demands of the sky. Hence, the evolution of the aircraft soon prompted the evolution of the wristwatch. In 1918, the Breguet watch company first began producing watches for aviators and also developed chronograph mechanisms mounted in cockpit instrument panels.

Breguet’s ties to the French Navy grew as the need for military aircraft at sea became evident soon after the first planes took flight. The French ministry of war formed the French Naval Air Arm (“Aéronavale”) in 1910 and by 1913 was using Breguet planes in its fleet. For the next 60 years, Breguet planes were the primary aircraft used by the Aéronavale.

“Breguet: Watchmaker, Aviator, Innovator” will be open for viewing at the Breguet Boutique on Fifth Avenue from June 19^thto July 8^th, the Breguet Boutique in Bal Harbour from  July 12^th to  July 29^th and complete the tour at the Breguet Boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills from August 2^nd to August 19^th.

A Win for Graham

Graham trotted out winners with the Couture Time Award for Technical Excellence at the Couture Design Awards in Las Vegas recently.

Courtesy of Graham

The award was in recognition of Graham's Silverstone Tourbillograph.  Eric Loth, GRAHAM Founder and Member of the Board was on hand to accept the award.


Courtesy of Graham

And Eric had this to say:  "We are delighted to have received such a prestigious award for our Tourbillograph, which was developed in the vein of the GRAHAM DNA, with a powerful design and a rich technological content".

Cogratulations Graham!


www.graham-london.com



A Real Brand Ambassador!

It seems that this is the age of the "Brand Ambassador" - generally someone very famous who has more money than God.  Someone who likes a "freebie" and gets paid an insane amount of money to accept a luxury gift.  Also, as we have sometimes seen, someone who then behaves in such a way that it truly embarrasses and shames the company that hired them.  Why is it, in this age of insane advertising budgets, that we do not see a true brand ambassador?  Someone that the company should well and truly be proud of?  


Well, today I got to speak with someone who I have come to believe is one of the few true brand ambassadors.  Someone who represents the very best of the watch brand ambassador.  The man who with his father worked to revive and sustain a wonderful tradition, and helped ensure that Vulcain
would remain The Watch of the Presidents.

So now, a few minutes with  Keijo Paajanen.


James Henderson - How is it that you and your family got involved with the Vulcain Cricket in the first place?


Keijo Paajanen - It was through a meeting we had with Mr. Michel Ditisheim in Switzerland.  He was the Director for MSR (Montres Suisse Reunion) and a shareholder for Revue Thommen S.A. 


It was actually his father Robert Ditisheim who originally created the Cricket!






JH - Helsinki, Finland is a long way from the US.  What was it that motivated your family to start presenting the Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents in the first place?


KP - As many watch historians and fans know, there was in the past a tradition of presenting a Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents.  We wanted the great story to continue and also because our family has always wanted to have good relations with the USA. My father and his family escaped from advancing Russians (Soviets) in 1939 (JH notes - this is the period of the Winter War).

JH - Who have you presented Vulcain Crickets to?

KP - To Ronald Reagan, George Bush (and same time Gorbachev), Gerald Ford (I personally met), Bill Clinton and Jimmy Carter (I met also personally) and finally last year to Vice President Biden.

Rosalynn Carter, President Jimmy Carter and Keijo Paajanen.  Photo Courtesy of Keijo Paajanen

JH - Who was the most interesting President/Vice President you have presented a Vulcain watch to?

KP - That must be Jimmy Carter I met personally. He was such a nice person. I also met his lovely wife Rosalynn

JH - Do you now carry the current Vulcain collection?

KP - We did have some of the new pieces but at the moment no, we do not carry it.

JH - It seems that there is a great deal more to the Vulcain tradition than simply presenting a watch, you and your family have really acted as true ambassadors not just for the Vulcain Cricket, but for Finland as well.  

KP - It is our family tradition to present this very special Vulcain Cricket watch every time a US President or Vice President visits Finland.  The Vulcain Cricket is the watch of the Presidents.  The Cricket is also a Great Story.  It has been worn by Presidents Dwight Eisenhower, Harry S. Truman, Lyndon B. Johnson and Richard Nixon.

We wanted this Great Story to continue, so in 1988 when President Ronald Reagan was in Finland we presented him a with a Cricket watch. 

Courtesy of Keijo Paajanen

In 1990 we presented a Cricket to President George Bush during the Helsinki Summit. (Actually we also presented a Cricket to Russian President Mikhail Gorbachev.  We never got a letter but you can see him wearing the watch on the cover of Time Magazine's International Issue  (December 31, 1990 number 53).

Copyright Time Magazine

In the summer of 1995 we presented a watch to President Gerald R. Ford while he was in Finland to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the signing of the Helsinki Accords.  I had great honour to meet him personally! 

Keijo Paajanen and President Gerald Ford.  Photo courtesy of Keijo Paajanen

In 1997 we presented a Cricket to President Bill Clinton while he was in Helsinki.  A few months later we presented a Cricket to President Jimmy Carter, with him being the ninth President of the United States of America to wear the very same watch model.  I had the great honor of meeting President Carter and his lovely wife Rosalynn.  No wonder we call the Cricket the watch of the Presidents.

One important historical note is that Richard Nixon got his Vulcain Cricket while he was Vice President in 1955. He received his Cricket from the National Association of Watch and Clock Makers.

JH - And the tradition continues with Vice President Joe Biden?

KP - Yes.  And I feel it is time for me to provide some information concerning my gift to Vice President Biden since the PUBLIC FINANCIAL DISCLOSURE REPORT was released. I knew this was going to take place since I was contacted long time ago by  The Ethics Counsel of the  Office of the Vice President.

The watch (the particular model) given to Vice President Biden is from a stock my father kept (only a few pieces) for future presentations and this is why they are no longer in stock lists and therefore no longer for sale. My father passed away 2009.