Holthenrichs Deconstructed in Meterorite and Aventurine

These are the latest two offerings from Michiel Holthinrichs's eponymous brand - Holthinrichs Watches

Based on his new Deconstructed concept, he has taken it a few steps further with these two striking new models. One with a meteorite dial (above), and the other in a lovely blue aventurine (below).

Courtesy of Hothenrichs

These are not your ordinary mass produced watches, but rather special, beguiling time machines that must be commissioned with the watch maker himself.

Here are the basics, straight from the source in Delft -

Specifications AVENTURINE & METEORITE Case: 3D printed titanium grade 5 with brushed finish. Semi-integrated DECON crown with embossed and brushed ‘H’. AR-coated domed sapphire crystal in front and flat sapphire crystal in the case back. Case diameter: 38.5mm. Case thickness: 9.8mm including domed crystal. Lug to lug: 47mm. Dial: AVENTURINE deep blue with applied hand-finished baton numerals.  METEORITE with openworked subseconds counter and applied hand-finished baton numerals. Hands: Stainless steel laser-cut DECON shape brushed top surface and large handmade anglage. Movement: In-house HW-M01 and 50% Dutch made DECON manual movement, based on an improved Peseux 7001 architecture. Constructed for higher stiffness and improved timekeeping through inertia balance wheel. Hand-finished with anglage, cerclage on the gears, and polished click and click spring, screw-heads and countersinks. AVENTURINE features classic circular Côtes de Genève. / METEORITE features handmade scraping pattern and openworked mainplate including handmade anglage. Strap: AVENTURINE features handmade curved alligator strap with patina finish. / METEORITE features integrated rubber DECON design (available in anthracite, orange, blue and green). AVENTURINE 20 numbered pieces available for reservation for €16.900 (ex. VAT) METEORITE 20 numbered pieces available for reservation for €18.800 (ex. VAT) DECONSTRUCTED 3-piece box set at €60.000 (ex. VAT) 50% deposit payment required, lead time 8 - 12 months.

Announcing the 1858 from the Oberlin Watch Company!

A bit of shameless self-promotion, but here goes -

We are very excited to announce that our newest watch from the Oberlin Watch Company, tentatively named the Montre 1858 will be available for pre-order shortly.

Pre-orders will be available for a non-refundable deposit of $58 (US dollars). We anticipate delivery next April / May, in time for graduation and class reunions.

And we are very pleased to announce that these will all be assembled in the US.

The pre-order price is tentatively set at $358.

Stay tuned!

The BR-X5 GREEN LUM

 From Bell & Ross -

This is limited series concept watch from Bell & Ross.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Limited to 500 pieces, the BR-X5 GREEN LUM

While it is possible that this has been done before and is just not on my radar, this is the first fully lumed CASE in my memory. Dials? I've seen plenty! But cases? That's a bit different!

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross -

• MOVEMENT

  Calibre BR-CAL.323. Manufacture. Automatic mechanical. Approximate power reserve of 70 hours.

• FUNCTIONS

  Hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o'clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

• CASE

  41 mm wide. 12.80 mm thick. Container in Grade 2 microblasted titanium with DLC (diamond-like carbon) finish. Upper and lower inserts in green luminescent fiberglass composite. Fixed bezel in Grade 2 microblasted titanium with bezel insert in luminescent composite. Screw-down crown and crown guard in Grade 2 titanium. Case-back in Grade 2 microblasted titanium with smoked grey sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Case-back with oscillating weight.

• DIAL

  Matt black. Applique indices filled with black varnish. Skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-covered hour and minute hands. Black flange with 60-minute scale with green marking.

• CRYSTAL

  Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

• WATER-RESISTANCE

  100 metres.

• STRAP

  Black openworked rubber.

• BUCKLE

  Folding. Steel with DLC (diamond-like carbon) finish.

Wrapping it Up - 15 Days with the Vario 1918 Trench Watch

While this is a new review of Vario's 1918 Trench Watch, it is in fact a few years overdue. When I was the owner of Tempus Fugit, I was asked if I might like to do a review. And the truth was, yes I would have. The problem was that I was in the process of selling the blog formerly know as Tempus Fugit. And probably the less said about that, and the rather dubious attempt as stewardship that was demonstrated by the erstwhile purchaser of the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit, the better.

But it is now 2023, Tempus Fugit appears to be frozen in time, and Ivan Chua has been kind enough to send me the very watch that I had been unable to review previously. And in a funny sort of way, it's like reconnecting the past to the current, and hopefully the future. And in a lot of ways, that is just what Ivan has done with the Vario 1918 Trench Watch. 

There are many devotees to the trench watch style, many of whom seek out and buy original as well as Franken-trench watches. And it is understandable because it is a great style. But the problem is that the condition of such historical relics is often such that they are not really viable as anything you would wear beyond as a prop for a photo shoot. Even if you can find one in which that the exterior (case, crown, dial) is viable, the amount of work and fuss it takes to make it wearable is such that it will cost a lot of time and money. And then you will need to baby it, never really enjoying wearing it.

Then there is the other extreme, when brands like Zenith, Blancpain and others try to crank out "fauxmage" watches that may harken back to another time, but frankly for the price and the half-assed attempts they have made explain why those watches are frequently available "new in box" through various grey market outlets at "value proposition" prices. And beyond that, they often are more characactures than watches. Sorry, but I gotta' call this like I see it, particularly the Pilot Type 20s. They are a bit too reminiscent of the "Fluffy Shirt" from Seinfeld -

So I guess this is a way of saying that even the great and mighty can fail when trying to do something in an inauthentic way. Which is why Vario's 1918 Trench Watch is such a wonderful execution of an idea that so many other brands have made a mess of.

So back to the matter at hand -

The Vario 1918 Trench Watch comes in perhaps the most sensible packaging you could get -

A donut or bagel shaped cordura skinned shell, which is the perfect conveyance for shipping the 1918, and as packaging it will prove super-handy in future for any owner.

The watch itself is, particularly for the price point, unbelievably well made. 

The case is stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter. It is also available in a 37 mm version. 

The model that shipped to me for review comes with the standard case back, which is engraved with an image of a World War I era soldier. It also bears the poppies of Flanders Field -

Courtesy of the Poetry Foundation

In Flanders Fields

BY JOHN MCCRAE

In Flanders fields the poppies blow

Between the crosses, row on row,

    That mark our place; and in the sky

    The larks, still bravely singing, fly

Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago

We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,

    Loved and were loved, and now we lie,

        In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:

To you from failing hands we throw

    The torch; be yours to hold it high.

    If ye break faith with us who die

We shall not sleep, though poppies grow

        In Flanders fields.

Vario also offers the option of having a blank (non engraved) case back.

Courtesy of Variao

Beyond the engraving, the case has wired lugs. These are not like the originals of that era which were the result of converting pocket watches to wristwatches. These are solid, secure, and the perfect complement to this watch.

The crown is engraved with the Vario logo, and is a screw down type. The threading is quite smooth and secure. This helps ensure the water resistance which is rated to 10 Atmospheres or 100 meters.

The 1918 comes standard with a bund style strap crafted of what Vario describes as Crazy Horse leather. Now I am going to be very honest here - I have never really been a fan of bund straps. Until now. The strap was comfortable pretty much right from the jump. Where a strap is typically stiff, often scratchy at first, the Vario bund strap has proven to be quite special. 

The dial? Well let's just say the dial could sell the watch on its own. The model that I reviewed is described as "white with orange lume". The layout of the dial is my favorite - a sub second at 6 o'clock. The numbers are bold, but beautifully so. The hands are the perfect complement to the numbers, which stand out beautifully against the white dial, which is described as white enamel.

The lume is described as orange. And it does work, and does illuminate. But this is perhaps the only area where the Vario 1918 Trench Watch is slightly lacking. Slightly. Because in fairness? There is even a statement on the Vario website stating that the orange lume is not as strong as the white lume. It does glow, but it could be stronger. 

The movement is the Miyota 82S5. The movement ran phenomenally, the accuracy was beyond reproach. Over the review period it did not lose or gain one minute.  Following the test period, I let it run down and was impressed that the power reserve time more than lived up to the advertised rate.

So to sum it all up? This was a review that was well-worth the several year wait. The Vario 1918 Trench Watch is an extremely well-made time machine that would be a bargain at twice the asking price. And just how much is that? An extremely affordable $388!

There are a lot of watches churned out as gimmicks, as attempts to capture or capitalize on a bygone era without any real effort to create a wearable, credible watch for today - often at usurious prices. And that is yet another thing that makes this Vario so special. Whether you can only afford one watch, or if you are a collector, this is an extremely fine watch for the money, and it offers something far better than anyone else has been able to provide, certainly at this price point. Or to paraphrase - what would a trench watch look and feel like if it were created today, using modern materials and manufacturing? Well now you know!

Should you be so interested, here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case diameter: 37mm or 40mm
Case thickness: 10mm
Dial: Enamel
Crystal: 2mm double domed sapphire with inner AR applied
Lug width: 18mm(37mm) or 20mm(40mm)
Lug to lug: 45mm(37mm) or 48mm(40mm)
Lume: C3 Lume
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Caseback: 316L stainless steel with option for empty caseback and laser engraving at additional cost
Crown: Screw-down crown
Movement: Adjusted Miyota 82s5 automatic gilt movement (Côtes de Genève) with hand-winding and hacking seconds. 21 jewels 21.6kpbh more than 40 hours power reserve
Water resistance: 10 atm
Strap: Crazy horse leather with bund pad (75mm/120mm) or single pass (270mm)
Warranty: 1 year global warranty

 

The Pilot GMT LE.3

 From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

A GMT chronograph is something that many brands try, and fail at. 

Courtesy of Brellum

But leave it to Sébastien Muller to deliver on what so many others have failed at - a truly superb GMT chronograph. 

This one is limited to 27 pieces total, so if it's in your wheelhouse, don't dawdle!

Here are the pertinents, straight from the 

source -

Movement:

Caliber BR-754-GMT Automatic 

7754 Valjoux base
Officially Chronometer Certified movement (with official certificate)
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Chrono 12 hours, 2nd Time Zone

Case:

Stainless steel case 316L, 41.80mm, 100m/10bar/333ft, 100% tested
Domed Sapphire crystal on top and caseback, anti reflexion coating

Dial:
Domed Multilevel Opaline Green dial, azuré counters, satined, 

Hands:

Satined hands with Superluminova

Strap:
Hand made Pilot Brown leather strap with stainless Steel 316L deployant buckle 

(safety push buttons and Brellum logo)
+ 5 links Stainless Steel bracelet with deployant buckle (safety push buttons and Brellum logo)

Very reasonably priced at CHF 3'150.00

Nobody Ever Texted A Mission Statement

So I recommend you find a more permanent communication device. I give you the Esterbrook Model J in Lotus Green. 

Pen people are slightly connected to watch people, but in truth they are a tribe unto themselves. Watches, by and large, come as they are. True, you can order a custom Sartory-Billard, or Holthinrichs watch, but by and large you buy what the brand has made. You might put your own twist on it with a different strap, but for the most part that's it.

For pen people, it's often a wee bit different. Some of it's about heft (i.e. how much it weighs, how dense it feels in your hand), for some it's about the flow of the ink from the nib, for others it's about how stiff or flexible the nib is. Others are solely focused on the name on the box that the pen came in. Pen people, like watch people, are often looking for that extra bit of validation.

I have been guilty of this, with a flock of Pelikan pens in various drawers and pen boxes. I had an opportunity to check out Esterbook's pens back in October and I took the Model J for a test drive.

It is available in two colors. And as you came to Henki Time for the words, and not the photos, I will borrow a better image from the folks at Esterbrook -

Courtesy of Esterbook

This is the Model J in Antique Rose. It was a close contest, but in the end I opted for the Lotus Green with a broad nib. Yes, to quote that other great commentator on watches and pens, Boz Skaggs, I put my money on the table and drove it off the lot.

Now should you ever encounter my handwriting, you will scratch your head, and wonder why I would bother even trying to use anything so elegant. Well, that is an answer in two parts:

Part One:

Just prior to my sixth birthday, I took an ill advised leap off of our neighbor's swing set. According to my mother, it was a multiple break "2 or 3 places!" Luckily, long-suffering family friend and neighborhood doctor, Dr. Mason, was on hand to splint me up in (according to my father) that day's copy of the New York Times. The accuracy of that last factoid remains lost to history, but after an overnight stay at Allen Memorial Hospital, and six weeks in plaster, I went off to first grade where they tried as best they could to get me to hold a pencil correctly, and produce anything that might vaguely pass as handwriting. What was not realized at the time was that there was nerve damage in the arm - and therefore the hand as well. About a year after leaving the U of O, I picked up a fountain pen and used it from time to time, nothing too serious. Almost as much an affectation as anything else. But I did notice that it forced me to be more patient when writing. Wendy gave me a Parker Sonnet for our first wedding anniversary. But by and large, I still mostly used ball points or roller balls.

Part Two:

In 2009 I took a rather nasty tumble off my Gitane Team Replica bike (it is worth noting that the only 2 cycling accidents I have had have been on blue French bicycles - my Peugeot in 1982, and the Gitane). I managed to drag my face along the tarmac for a good 25 feet. Two front teeth, literally the skin off my nose, a knee filled with gravel (of which the removal was excruciating), and two broken fingers later, I was back at work. And needless to say, holding a pen was also, excruciating. 

I started trying to get control of my hand, and its now semi-serviceable fingers. And I started writing exclusively with fountain pens as a type of physical therapy as it forced me to focus my actions and motions. And for the most part? I never looked back.

But back to my new Esterbrook -

It is safe to say, that not unlike watches, when it comes to pens you have plenty to choose from. Some of it well worth the money, some of it disappointing. The Esterbrook does not disappoint! I opted for a broad nib. The feel is forgiving without being flimsy. The ink flows evenly, and it requires little to no downward force. 

It is crafted of ebonite, and therefore has a wonderfully warm feeling in the hand. And it now has me looking at it's Antique Rose partner.

While it is not inexpensive, it is not outrageously priced at $295. Now while that would have been way out of my league as a freshly minted graduate with journalistic ambitions, it is certainly not too outlandish. It is the type of pen that just might inspire the next Charles Foster Kane (ideally the one before his fall from grace).

So for those of you out there working on a business plan, a mission statement or even a declaration of principles...

Get yourself a decent pen, and write like you give a damn!

Preview of Coming Attractions!

A little bit of shameless self-promotion!

 

This is a first look at the next offering from the Oberlin Watch Company. Hand-winding, and assembled in the US. Pre-orders will start in December, with delivery targeted for March, 2024.

Stay tuned!

The One That Got Away - And Came Back Reborn

I am convinced that the Four Noble Truths were originally penned with the watch-obsessed in mind. And although I am a semi-functioning Buddhist, I accept my imperfections, not the least are that I eat meat, and I like shiny things that keep the time.

Enter the MeisterSinger Edition Primatik 365 -

Courtesy of Meister Singer

Clapping eyes on this last month at the Wind-Up show, I was reminded to try and keep control of my longings and desires, or as was written (albeit originally in Sanskrit), Taṇhā. 

The Primatik 365 is a wonderful time machine. The case measures 41.5 mm and is of stainless steel. The movement is Sellita's SW270, which has been modified to suit the needs of MeisterSinger's single handed functionality. It also includes both a date and power reserve function.

But more than anything else, I was captivated by the look and feel of the Primatik 365. It is clearly legible without being spartan. It is colorful and fun without being garish. It is, at least to my eye, very nearly perfect. Your mileage, of course, may vary ; )

It is limited to 100 pieces and is very reasonably priced at just North of $2,500 (if my memory serves me correctly).

So I am going to hit the pause button and ask you to hop in the Way-Back Machine with me. We're heading to those thrilling days of yesteryear, specifically 2003. 

Now at that time, I was living in San Francisco. I had just gone through a fairly major life shift. Wendy and I had moved to the US after 8 + years overseas (Japan, Portugal, Finland, UK), and I had been relieved of my duties at my first big-time job. I then slugged it out as a Starbucks store manager in a pretty ragged-out location which boasted, among other things, a fairly aggressive rat population. I would get up at 4:00 AM, walk across a still (mostly) sleeping downtown San Francisco, and open up the store, each time grateful I had not run across a predator. I would work my (usually) 10 hour shift (don't worry Howard, I'm not going to get litigious about all of that unpaid overtime), and after that I would grab my suit bag, and hot-foot it over to Tourneau. I would take a quick "hooker's shower" in the men's room, slip into my suit, and work the floors of a very small store, and hopefully sell a few watches. I would get home about 9:30 and share an hour of conversation with Wendy before going to bed to get up and do it all over again. 

And then the sun came out again (at least professionally) and I got a job at a college, re-entering my "field". And after a month, I saved up my lunch money and wandered into Seregin's. This was back when they were behind the big Macy's on Union Square. And that is when I became acquainted with a new (to me) German brand, MeisterSinger. They had one model in 3 different colors. I chose the one that this current one is based on -

Courtesy of Meister Singer

Francis Zanneti was working for Paul Seregin back then. And if ever there was someone who would have rocked a watch podcast it was Francis. He was the one who coined the ultimate watch descriptor:

"The Shit That Killed Elvis!".

Francis explained that I was the first person in San Francisco to buy one, and it was likely I might be one of the first owners in the US full-stop. And that watch meant a lot to me. It reminded me that life, inevitably, moves forward. No matter how bad things might get, those moments of failure, of doubt, of fear? They are temporary. As, it would turn out, is watch ownership. A good friend really admired my MeisterSinger. He was going through a bad time, and I was pleased to see my MeisterSinger go to someone in need of a confidence boost.

Flash forward literally 20 years (and I kid you not, nearly down to the day), and we were wrapping up our booth at the Wind-Up show in New York. I am getting wine and beer for our fellow exhibitors and I look up and realize that I am pouring for Rainer Eckert, the Co-CEO of MeisterSinger. Needless to say, I felt compelled to share my MeisterSinger story with him. And thinking back on it, I am reminded that life is a journey, there really is no set destination - and wouldn't it be boring if there was? 

Nothing is permanent in this life, whether we are ready to accept it or not. But we will always have memories, both good and bad. Time will march on, with or without us. So take those moments to reflect back, to look forward, but most importantly? Take time to enjoy the present.

What I've Learned - The Morning After Edition

Over the past few days, news has slowly trickled out about the most recent round of layoffs at Hodinkee, that by joyful coincidence have come just in time for the holiday season. While I suspect a few luminaries are still sunning themselves by the banks of Lake Geneva, the reality of what is really going on is tightening more than a few sphincters as all of Watch Town's great and good go through duty free picking up their giri (that's Japanese for duty, Gaijin!) gifts including toys and chocolate for the youngsters. Probably more than a few of these fine guys and gals will be updating their resumes and considering going into some other field that is not as dependent on the willing suspension of disbelief in the light of woefully unsustainable business plans. Lucky for them, liquor is still free on most international flights, which should make for a more focused cover letter upon sobering up Monday morning.

So the party, for many, is over. For many others, it's clear that the band has gone home, and the cleaning staff are starting to get a wee bit grumpy.  And this is true for the watch business and watch media business as a whole. Hodinkee just happens to be the canary in the coal mine.

So as much as I hate my prognostications being proven right (albeit years after making them) here goes. I will be calling on the help of several other notable watch industry experts, so here goes -

What I've Learned - The Morning After Edition

“The key to the game is capital reserves. If you don't have enough, you can't piss in the tall weeds with the big dogs.” 

Michael Douglas as Gordon Gecko in Wall Street.

So as I mentioned yesterday, +$40,000,000.00 doesn't seem to go nearly as far as it used to. To be fair, Hodinkee is not guilty of anything more or less dumb than what many Swiss watch brands have done (and will continue to do). They simply assumed that hiring a LOT of people, launching (in retrospect) an ill-advised watch insurance program, and doubling down on a fairly dubious move into online retail would pay off. 

And curious to relate? They have been forced to go to the well on more than one occasion to top-up the tank. And as I said, this is no different than innumerable Swiss watch companies. Money is always a problem. If you don't manage it, it will manage you. And Hodinkee is not the only erstwhile media company that has been drop-kicked through the goal posts of ill-advised retail. And if those two missteps weren't enough...

"Even Napoleon had his Watergate"

Yogi Berra

Hodinkee's Last Layoff

Now keep in mind, that was back in September. We are now just over 2 months later, and if the rumors are true, this might have resulted in further cuts in terms of headcount than in the previous round. Those who will say don't know, and those who know won't say. It's all well and good to point the bony finger of blame at a seemingly great acquisition gone wrong. But the fiscal realities staring them in the face comes down to more than mere buyer's remorse. Crown and Caliber, in hindsight, might have been an ill-advised purchase. But the deeper question is what really drove that purchase? Let's hope more than ego.

"Always remember why you bought the club (Company) in the first place."

Barry Hearn - The 10 things I learned from owning a football club.

In fairness, I suspect that owing a piece of Hodinkee was a pretty attractive proposition. It even caught the eye of The Wolf in Cashmere. And you never know, it might be attractive enough in its new, "value proposition" (sorry, too soon?) condition that if there is another "Arnault the Even Younger" out there looking for a youth-training opportunity, LVMH might pump in another round of investment and parachute another offspring fresh off a Berlitz English class to take the helm. But the truth in all of this is pretty sad when you think about the many people now out of work. And in fairness, I do feel bad for the founder, one Mr. Clymer. Now in all candor, I think we have met exactly twice, and I think it was equally unmemorable for both of us. Well, probably more unmemorable for him as I am sure that he has no memory of either instance ; )

But at the same time, I also find my sympathy challenging to balance. This is a guy who, after all, came from UBS, and was not one to hide his light under a bushel. But the real test now is how Hodinkee pivots. Hopefully in a positive direction.

"You've been drinking too much of your own bathwater."

Henki

As a middle aged man I think I can say this with some authority. Every man thinks he's good looking and has a great sense of humor. And the watch media business is, by and large, a sausage fest. If we are being honest about things, Hodinkee has not been living in reality. $40,000,000.00 seems like a lot of money, but when you live beyond your means, it can be gone pretty quickly. Jack Forster, Jon Bues, Cole Pennington - you may remember them from such roles as: "Editor - Hodinkee." 

They have come and gone. Whether these departures were the result of fiscal concerns remains to be seen (or said). There are some loyalists still in the fold, so we shall wait, and we shall see. But the bottom line is that sustainability is key whether you are running a lemonade stand, or a media/retail venture.

Now beyond anything else, the latest issues at Hodinkee are a bellwether for the watch media business as a whole. One large watch media outlet has apparently done some front-office redecorating with their (now former) US Editor seeking pastures greener. Others are struggling to balance commerce with editorial. It is a tough needle to thread, balancing editorial with commerce. It's an even tougher needle to thread when you have myriad investors expecting a positive return on said investment.

Bros Before...

In reading the tea leaves from the latest Brodinkee Instagram posting, it would appear more than likely that Hodinkee has cut loose a few (or more) now "former" staffers. Following the not so long-ago purge of more than a few former loyal employees, it would seem that the good ship Hodinkee is still taking on water, and more ballast is finding its way over the side. 

It would seem that $40,000,000.00 doesn't go as far as it used to...

I continue to be amazed by the machinations at the top of Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates. But then again, I am just a small-time solo act, so what do I know?

Well, I'm glad you asked!

As you may or may not know, the only major watch fair still operating in the real world instead of "IMAGINE-Land" is Watches and Wonders. More importantly, Watches and Wonders is invitation only to the press. And now the next question you might have - "How do they decide who is invited?" Well, not unlike any other decision making process that is conducted by people who are still living out their High School glory days, it is a pretty thinly veiled popularity contest with the formerly unpopular kids finally getting to sit at the popular kids table, and they now get to flex. It goes something like this:

The media / marketing representatives for each participating brand will have a regional convocation to decide press invitees. This is organized by that highly transparent and wonderfully unbiased organization known as the FHH (excuse me while I die laughing). The names of potential invitees are put forward, and (at least in the recent past) if one brand blackballs you, you will not be invited. You may well have appointment invitations in-hand from 99% of the brands, but it only takes one brand to get you banned. Simple as that. Now also curious to relate, Hodinkee and other big outlets will get 5 - 10 invitations. Think about that for a moment - one outlet will get up to 10 spots. Independent, or let's be honest, less-sexy journalists who actually write whether they are paid or not? Typically the answer by those handing out the invites at the Watches and Wonders Rose Ceremony is  "Space is limited and we just can't invite everyone we'd  like to." 

And here is where I call bullshit.

The truth of the matter is quite easy to understand. Richemont, and now by extension the other "haute" brands (which now includes ORIS?) are not really even a little bit interested in diverse coverage. Or perhaps it is fairer to lay that truth at the doorstep of the FHH. Just as they want the disciples of Watch Town to keep their eyes on their shiny objects, these brand flaks can't seem to take their eyes off of their preferred (read compliant) shiny media objects. It's a wonderfully symbiotic relationship.

So to my fellow independent journos out there, take heart. If things don't improve at some of these other big outlets, there might just be an extra press invitation or two, providing you get past the velvet rope of the FHH's beauty pageant ; )

The Mythic Titanium

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

I am a child of the 70s. I know what you're going to say, and I agree with you - nobody misses double-knit polyester, the Ford Pinto, or Watergate scandal. 

On the other hand, I do have very fond memories of the Presto Hot Dogger - and this is coming from a guy who really did not (and for the most part still does not) like hot dogs. Anything that requires that much mustard and diced onion to be made palatable is maybe best left alone ; )

And in terms of design, there were indeed some efforts that are best left in the dustbins of history... along with the beloved 33s of our childhood.

But let's get back to the matter at hand -

Courtesy of Lip

I know the owner of Lip a little bit. Pierre-Alain Berard and his father took over Lip a few years back. And let's just say that fate threw a few curve balls right at their heads. I had just gotten back from my second visit to Lip, and one of my all-time favorite cities, Besançon, when COVID19 began to rear its ugly head. In a few conversations at the height of the pandemic, Pierr-Alain was clearly focused on keeping the company going, and keeping his people employed. And not unlike another storm that Lip went through in the 70s, they came out the other side even stronger. 

The proof is in their new product offerings, not the least of which is this wonderfully different wrist-bound bijoux. The Mythic Titanium is a twist on the earlier release the Big TV Titanium, a revival of a classic Roger Tallon Lip design. The dial is a wonderful departure, requiring a different perspective to read the time, but one that makes the experience a bit more personal.

Courtesy of Lip

It's Hip To Be Square!

The Mythic Titanium is - you guessed it - crafted of titanium, with a display back. It measures 35 mm x 35 mm. The movement is the MIYOTA 82S0 - automatic. Water resistance is 50 meters. And the price is a wonderfully affordable one - €899.00