Overboard

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin is a wonderful brand, a beautiful story, and... I fear they are drifting farther and farther from their identity.

I love the Overseas.  I loved the Overseas even when my old boss at Tourneau (the smart one, not the knuckle-scraper) told me I had "no taste".  I liked it even when they went to a bracelet that might be favored by Jack Sparrow a few years back.  But enough is enough already!

Yes, this is spoken of as a novelty - meaning it is not going to be in standard production.  But many watch novelties are not unlike neck tattoos.  They seem like a great idea after a half-rack of beer, but the end result is something you're stuck with that can't be "unseen".

It's Not Sexy, But I Like It!

No, the gentlemen pictured here are not the 9 members of a professional baseball team.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

They (at least judging from the looks of them) are not going to be competing in the NBA finals, and to the best of my knowledge, they will not be lacing up their boots to compete at Euro 2016 next week.

Essentially, a luxury watch brand created an award recognizing and rewarding academic achievement.  So apparently all of the Vacheron PR money was not flushed down the port-a-potties of Sag Harbor ; )

So full credit for doing something a bit different and not as obvious.  This is something that is worth covering - yet I also noticed most of the "Long Island Vacation Group" did not chose to cover this, so I guess maybe they need to be "wined and dined" a bit more...

Well done Vacheron Constantin - we need more of this.

Here is the story, straight from the source -

The Prix Vacheron Constantin des Sciences 2016 was awarded to a Dr Alberto de la Torre, a student at the Faculty of Science of the University of Geneva, for his doctoral thesis

In order to encourage young students from the Faculty of Science of the University of Geneva to pursue their studies and to undertake scientific research, Vacheron Constantin instated in 1948 a prize annually rewarding the author of particularly praiseworthy work in the field of astronomy, physics or mathematics.

This year, the Vacheron Constantin prize was awarded to Dr Alberto de la Torre, for his doctoral thesis entitled Spectroscopic Studies of Layered Iridium Oxides and reporting “the doping evolution of the electronic structure of the single and bilayer iridates Sr2IrO4 and Sr3Ir2O7 from angle resolved photoemission (ARPES) experiments”.

Dr Alberto de la Torre Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

The official presentation of the Vacheron Constantin prize – a timepiece from the Overseas 
collection – took place on Wednesday June 1st 2016 at the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin in Plan-les-Ouates. The ceremony was attended by Geoffroy Lefebvre, Chief Operating Officer Vacheron Constantin; the laureate, Dr Alberto de la Torre; Jérôme Lacour, Dean of the Faculty of Science; Vice Deans, Christoph Renner and Martin Gander; Professors Thierry Giamarchi and Michèle Maggiore; Martine Depresle, Communications Director Vacheron Constantin; and Alexandre Chiuvé, Technical Director Vacheron Constantin.

The Overseas World Time

From Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

This is the latest iteration of the Overseas - a world time model.

Available in three dial versions and with steel bracelet, leather or rubber strap.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Here are the pertinents -

References 

7700V/110A-B129 – silver-toned dial 
7700V/110A-B172 – blue dial 
7700V/110A-B176 – brown dial 
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces 

Caliber 

2460 WT
Mechanical self-winding
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin 
22K gold Overseas oscillating weight
36.6 mm (11’’’1⁄4) diameter, 7.55 mm thick 
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
255 components
27 jewels 

Indications 

Hours and minutes
Central seconds
World time indication (37 cities) 
Day-night indication 

Case 

Stainless steel
43.5 mm diameter, 12.6 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection 
Screwed-down crown
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150 meters) 

Dial 

3 superimposed dials:
A.  Map of the northern hemisphere with sunburst satin-finished
continents & velvet-finished seas. Translucent silver-
toned/blue/brown lacquered disc with transferred city names
B.  Sapphire disc with transferred day/night and 24-hour
indications (period between 6.30pm and 6.30am highlighted
with a black background)
C.  Translucent silver-toned/blue/brown lacquered ring, opalin-
finished, transferred minute-track
18K gold hours and minutes hands highlighted with white
luminescent material

Bracelet/Straps 

Stainless steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links
Delivered with a second black/blue/brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap featuring 

a black nubuck lining with a micro- perforated effect, hand-stitched, large square scales
Delivered with a third strap in black/blue/brown rubber

Clasps 

Stainless steel bracelet secured by a stainless steel triple-blade folding 
clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system
Delivered with a second stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and 
interchangeable system (patent pending) compatible with both additional straps 

SIHH - the Antidote

With all of the excitement finally receding into the background with the closing of SIHH for another year, I though it might be interesting to have a look at something from a Richemont group company that is not a "show-pony".

This is my very own Jaeger Le-Coultre Atmos clock.  It has, in the past, informally served as the official timekeeper for Tempus Fugit.  And it does come with a bit of an interesting story. It had been left at a local watch makers for repairs back in the 90s. The person who left it never came back for it.  I visited the shop pretty much once a week to ask if it was finally for sale.  Every week I got the same answer from the store owner - "Let me think about it and I'll tell you next week".  This went on for a little over 11 months.  I finally convinced the owner of the shop to sell it to me and it has now been with us for several years. As with any vintage clock or watch, it has required a few trips for service to finally get "just right". I think that we are finally there.

Now while I would love to own a red Reverso or an Overseas from Vacheron Constantin one day, I truly am not bothered about all of the "of the moment" concoctions hurled about as "SIHH specialties".  A note to the marketing folks at Richemont - you have some singular classics - don't forget about them ; )

 

The New Overseas

From Vacheron Constantin

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.  This is one of those times.

New Limited Edition Overseas

From Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Now yet again, we have the stark reality that English as it is spoken by, I don't know, the English speaking population vs. the English written by those stalking the halls in PR is, well, different -

Apparently, this is a watch for - 

"refined aesthetes who regularly traverse continents while juggling multiple time zones."

Now, I don't know that I am necessarily a "refined aesthete who regularly traverses continents while juggling multiple time zones", but I will say that these are a very nice watches ; )

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Available in two flavors - a "simple" time and date model.  Sorry, but to call anything Vacheron Constantin makes simple is like referring to Michael Jordan as an okay basketball player.  Vacheron makes beautiful, wondrous things, and these two are no exception.

So without any further snarkiness, here are the details -

TECHNICAL DATA

Overseas (simple date)

Reference      
47040/000A-9008

Caliber 
1226
Mechanical, self-winding, Anti-magnetic protection
26.6 mm (11’’’ 1⁄4) diameter, 3.25 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,000 vibrations/hour)
143 components 36 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes Center seconds, Date

Case 
Stainless steel
42 mm diameter, 9.7 mm thick
Screwed-down crown
Solid case-back with stamped “Overseas” medallion
Water resistance tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150
meters)

Dial 
Vanished blue shiny dial, white painted indications
Hands and hour-markers in 18K gold, pfinodal seconds hand
Hours and minutes hands and hour-markers with white luminescent material

Strap 
Blue rubber
Delivered with a second blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, 
large square scales
Clasp 
Stainless steel triple blade folding clasp, double security with buttons

Limited edition of 350 timepieces 

TECHNICAL DATA

Overseas dual time

Reference 47450/000A-9039

Caliber 1222 SC
Mechanical, self-winding
Anti-magnetic protection
26.6 mm (11’’’ 1⁄4) diameter
4.85 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,000 vibrations/hour)
153 components 34 jewels

Indications Hours, minutes Center seconds Hand-type date
Second time zone with day/night indication Power reserve

Case 
Stainless steel
42 mm diameter, 12.45 mm thick
Screwed-down crown and pushpiece
Solid case-back with stamped “Overseas” medallion
Water resistance tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150
meters)

Dial Vanished blue shiny dial, white painted indications
Blue snailed counters with rhodiumized diamond-polished filets
Hands and hour-markers in 18K gold, pfinodal seconds hand Hours and minutes hands 
and hour-markers with white luminescent material

Strap Blue rubber
Delivered with a second blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, 
large square scales
Clasp 
Stainless steel triple blade folding clasp, double security with buttons

Limited edition of 300 timepieces 

Vacheron Constantin's New Boutique

In Miami!

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

And this is particularly special to me as my first boss in the watch business, Javi Perrigo, is second from the right in the picture above.  When I first wandered into the original Tourneau in San Francisco he gave me my shot and the rest, as they say, is history.

But enough about me ; )

Here's the news, straight from the source -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest Haute Horlogerie manufacturer with 260 years of uninterrupted history, celebrates the opening of its new Miami Design District boutique with a series of events at the prestigious Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM).

Miami is home to a robust arts and design community. In homage to this vibrant city, and in celebration of the Miami boutique opening, Vacheron Constantin hosted a series of private events at Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) from February 2 through February 5, 2015. “Voyages and Ornaments,” a collection of Vacheron Constantin’s decorative timepieces dating back as early as the 1800’s introduced watch aficionados and art lovers to the abundant artistry and creativity in watchmaking. Enameling, engraving, guilloche, and gemsetting were all represented in the historic timepieces on display and were further enhanced by the presence of a master engraver, master gemsetter and master watchmaker from Vacheron Constantin’s headquarters in Geneva. During a series of exclusive events, guests had the rare opportunity to try their own hand at engraving with the Maison’s master engraver. An extraordinary collection of current Vacheron Constantin timepieces were also on display, showcasing modern watchmaking techniques and artistry.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Miami’s Design District is centered in Miami’s historic and thriving arts community. The new Vacheron Constantin boutique welcomes watch collectors and enthusiasts from all over the world to its 1400 square feet of floor space. The boutique’s rich and elegant architectural and decorative details highlight the quality of craftsmanship, sophisticated level of refinement, and high level of finishing of the timepieces on display. Finely crafted limestone flooring is complimented by walls finished in Venetian plaster. Two custom-made Murano crystal chandeliers grace the center of the boutique, and warm wood paneling adds to the elegance of the décor. A dedicated art wall features rotating exhibits from local and international artists, further connecting Vacheron Constantin with the surrounding community. A Vacheron Constantin trained watchmaker is present at the boutique to offer advice and personal service to collectors. The full range of collections from the Geneva-based Manufacture as well as exclusive boutique models are available at the Miami Design District boutique.

An Exclusive Timepiece

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

A limited-edition Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph is available for purchase exclusively at the Miami Design District boutique. The timepeice features rose gold with an azure blue dial and blue rubber strap to echo the tropical waters surrounding Miami and is limited in number to just 30 pieces. With water resistance to 150 meters and a chronograph timing mechanism, the limited edition watch goes from beach to boardroom in unparalleled style. 

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Tokyo

As many regular readers know, I spent some very good years in the Tokyo suburbs of Kasukabe and Hachioji.  So I am always interested in events over there.

And in the "if I had a million dollars" category, Vacheron Constantin is right up there, so today it is (at least for me) a treat!

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

 With a brand new boutique in Tokyo's Ginza district - or as we used to refer to it:
"If you have to ask the price, you can't afford it-town", Vacheron Constantin has also thrown some special releases to help celebrate -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

A new Overseas Dual Time model -

Reference             47450/B01A-9800
Special product for Vacheron Constantin Tokyo Boutique

Caliber 1222 SC
Mechanical, self-winding
26.6 mm (11 ’’’ 1⁄2) diameter
4.85 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours power reserve 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
153 components 
34 jewels

Indications 
Hours Minutes
Center seconds
Date
Power reserve
Second time zone with day/night indication

Case 
Stainless steel
42 mm diameter, 12.45 mm thick
Solid caseback with stamped “Overseas” medallion
Screwed-down crown and pushpiece
Anti-magnetic protection certified to 25,000 A/m
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150 metres)

Dial 
Black opaline dial with hand-guilloché date and dual time counters 
18K white gold hour-markers with white luminescent material
18K white gold hours and minutes hands with white luminescent material 
18K 5N pink gold applied Maltese cross and 5N gold-plated pfinodal seconds hand
“LIMITED EDITION TOKYO” secret signature under the power reserve segment

Bracelet 
Stainless steel


Clasp 
Stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp 


And a special version of the Traditionnelle - Traditionnelle Tokyo Boutique

 

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Reference 82172/000R-9808
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Special product for Vacheron Constantin Tokyo Boutique

Caliber 
4400 AS
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
28.6 mm (12 ’’’ 1⁄2) diameter
2.8 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours power reserve 
4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
127 components 
21 jewels

Indications 
Hours Minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Case 
18K 5N pink gold
38 mm diameter, 7.77 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial 
18K gold
Hand-guilloché black dial
“LIMITED EDITION TOKYO” secret signature at 12 o’clock

Strap 
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp 
18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Limited edition of 20 timepieces 

The Overseas

One of my favorites from Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

'Nuff said!