The 1870 CE Black & Blue

From Cornell Watch Company -

Courtesy of the Cornell Watch Company

This is the latest from the Cornell Watch Company. Two new takes on the debut 1870, this time with either a blue or black dial.

Per the folks at Cornell Watch Company -

Two new models join the original 1870 CE, both featuring grand feu enamel dials made by Donzé Cadrans, Switzerland's premier maker of such dials. The 1870 CE Black features a black enamel dial complemented by gilt-style printing and gold-plated hands, while the 1870 CE Blue has a navy blue enamel dial paired with white printing and rhodium-plated hands. Both watches still feature the 39mm stainless steel 1870 case and a hand-finished Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 movement, and they are fully assembled here in the United States by the RGM Watch Company. 

 

These watches will be produced in extremely limited quantities due to the complexity of making the dials and both are priced at $12,950. The original 1870 CE remains priced at $11,950. 

Here are the pertinents -

Case

Dimensions:

39mm x 10mm at case, 11.3mm at crystal
48mm lug-to-lug
20mm lug width

Material:

Mix of brushed and polished 316L stainless-steel

Bezel:

Polished, smooth

Winding Crown:

Double gasket

CrystalBox-style raised sapphire crystal (front)
Flat sapphire crystal (back)

Water Resistance:

50m



Movement

Calibre:

Schwarz Etienne
ASE 200
Manufacture automatic movement with micro-rotor

Functions:

Hours and minutes
(Sub) small second at 6 o'clock
Stop second

Decoration:

Brushed solid gold plaque on micro-rotor
Radial brushing on bridges
Perlage on mainplate

Technical Characteristics:

86-hour power reserve
33 jewels
3 Hz (21'600 Alt/h)
Adjusted 5 positions
Balance wheel with fixed inertia, produced by Schwarz Etienne
Spiral hairspring with flat Philips terminal curve

Dial and Hands

Material:

Donzé Cadrans grand feu enamel dial
Thermal blued steel, rhodium and gold plated hands

Technical Characteristics:

Crafted by hand
Enamel repeatedly fired between 1472-1652°F (800-900°C)
Thermal blued steel hands fired between 536-572°F (280-300°C)

Strap & Buckle

Producer:
Handmade by Velle Alexander

Material:
Matte American Alligator

Technical Characteristics:
Zermatt black leather lining
Curved lug end
Quick-release

Buckle:
316L stainless steel
Velle Alexander exclusive

Spending Time With The Mühle Glashütte Sportivo Travel GMT

All good things must come to an end, maybe...

Okay, before we go too far into this, I have to go back to where and when I first encountered the Sportivo Travel GMT. I was wandering through the booths at the Wind-Up show in New York this past October. I had briefly spoken with Damir Armstrong of Duber Time - the US distributor for Mühle Glashütte at the Watch Time event the night before, and as I waded through the masses of the Wind-Up show the next day, I was on a mission. I had to have a second look at something that had caught my eye and beguiled me. 

If you wanted to spend a quality minute or two on Saturday at the WindUp show, you had to commit to pushing through a throng of folks, three to four bodies wide, several wearing backpacks stuffed beyond a fully-prepped paratrooper just before jumping into Normandy. You had to show commitment ; )

Courtesy of Mühle Glashütte

So needless to say, after struggling past (I'm sorry, but in all honesty) some less-than fresh smelling folks, and dodging latte splashes and hurdling baby strollers (what the hell were these parents thinking?) I had Damir walk me through the the GMT Sportivo, and that more than anything else I saw in New York stayed with me.

So fast forward to "nowish" and the Sportivo Travel GMT found its way to the North Shore for me to spend some time with it.

Courtesy of Mühle Glashütte

Mühle Glashütte makes some fancier pieces, not least of which is my ALL-TIME favorite - the Robert Mühle Mondphase Limited Edition. And although what I am about to say may seem contrarian, this versatility is why I far prefer the offerings from Mühle Glashütte. And this is why I find the Sportivo Travel GMT such a perfect counter point to the (let's be honest) very high priced pseudo sport models offered by their neighbors in Glashütte.

So let's dive in, shall we? (see what I did there?)

Let's start with the basics - the case is of stainless steel, and measures 42.5 mm in diameter; with a height of 11.4 mm.

The level of quality in the case finish is of an impressive level - brushed and polished stainless steel. And yes, aesthetics are important. But just as important if not more so? The engineering that often goes unseen, and can be under appreciated or even taken for granted.

The Sportivo Travel GMT is rated to a depth of 30 bars - that's 3 ATM (atmospheres) or more specifically 300 meters.

Under the hood, the Sportivo GMT is driven by a nicely customized Sellita SW 330-2. How customized? Glad you asked!

The specs on the Mühle Glashütte website break it down -

Movement: SW 330-2 Mühle Version, automatic, Mühle version with woodpecker neck regulation, own rotor, characteristic surface finishes, stop-second, fast date correction, 56-hr power reserve.

And now here is where the NOMOS fanboys and fangirls will whinge - "But it's not a manufacture movment..."

Well, allow me to relate a few sad realities about owing a watch with a manufacture movement - service, movement failure, high service cost, long service wait times. This is the reality. So when we are talking about a watch that you actually intend to, I don't know, actually wear... well you might want to consider how you want to spend your money, and time ; )

The timekeeping of the Sportivo Travel GMT has been quite good, very steady, not real variances. And that's as it should be.

The strap is an interesting design choice, and clearly speaks to the actual intended use of the watch.  

It is crafted of canvas and rubber. The rubber portion is textured to ensure that the strap is breathable, not slippy, and most importantly in less wintery-weather? It won't be slimy.

The strap is similar to what I have seen from Hirsch. And as many of you know, Hirsch straps are not exactly inexpensive, and are highly praised for their quality.

Now all of these are important things, but ultimately you could have a perfectly engineered watch, but if it is uncomfortable to wear, it will either sit in your dresser, or be traded or sold for something else.

After several weeks, I can honestly say that it is one of the most comfortable watches I have worn in some time. 

But now I need to get a little personal. Because despite all of the wonderful craftsmanship (both artisanal and technological), the Sportivo Travel GMT hit (and still hits) me with a visceral sucker-punch. 

What do I mean by visceral?

Per Merriam-Webster:

1. : felt in or as if in the internal organs of the body : deep. a visceral conviction. 

2. : not intellectual : instinctive, unreasoning.

Visceral Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster

When you work with and around watches, and most of your waking hours are spent trying to describe them, sell them, market them? It can become a bit like, well, work...

Courtesy of Watch Charts.com

The Swatch Calypso Diver is not exactly an horological marvel. It's a plastic cased quartz watch with a plastic strap that I think I bought at the May Company in the Midway Mall in Elyria, Ohio back in 1985. That watch strangely meant quite a bit to me, even more in hindsight. I had moved out of the family home, I was 17 years old and staring down the reality that I would have to work nights and weekends at the now defunct Selenti's Pizza, while going to Oberlin High School, haplessly chasing a soccer scholarship that the OHS coach spent zero effort to help me with. Let's just say that one year probably still resonates more with me than any one before or since.

More than anything else I remember about that time was that I wanted to do more, wanted to see more. I knew that there had to be more out there than Northern Ohio, and the dream of travel, learning a new language, living in a different country with a different culture? This started as an aspirational notion that evolved into an obsession.

When I wear the Sportivo GMT, it hits me on so many levels. Now I realize that the point of a watch review is to be objective, but sometimes things are more personal. And my feeling is that the right watch (which is different for each wearer) does more than tell the time. And for the Mühle Glashütte Sportivo Travel GMT is more - it is a time machine. 

The Mühle Glashütte Sportivo Travel GMT is very well priced at $2,999.00 on the canvas strap, and $3,249.00 on the stainless steel bracelet.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Mühle Glashütte -

Movement: SW 330-2 Mühle Version, automatic, Mühle version with woodpecker neck regulation, own rotor, characteristic surface finishes, stop-second, fast date correction, 56-hr power reserve

Case: Brushed/polished stainless steel, Bidirectional rotating bezel with black ceramic inlay, Double anti-glare sapphire crystal, Transparent case back, Screw-in crown, Water-resistant to 30 bars.

Strap: Waterproof canvas/rubber strap with stainless steel pin buckle or stainless steel strap with butterfly clasp

Dimensions: Diameter – 42.5 mm; Height – 11.4 mm

Dial: Black, Applied indices, Hour markers and hands coated in Super LumiNova

Vulcain Cricket Pop Quiz!

When I was in middle school, I had a very good history teacher. And he had a way of giving a piece of fact in language that could be deceptive.

One question I remember was this - 

Who was the first US President born in the United States of America?

Now to our way of thinking, and our nascent understanding of Presidential Electoral requirements, it seemed like a trick question. Like who's buried in Grant's Tomb?

I had a quick Google, and thankfully Donald Trump's favorite South African adoptee and his team of nitwits haven't done a virtual arson job on this (yet)...

Article II, Section 1, Clause 5:

No Person except a natural born Citizen, or a Citizen of the United States, at the time of the Adoption of this Constitution, shall be eligible to the Office of President; neither shall any Person be eligible to that Office who shall not have attained to the Age of thirty five Years, and been fourteen Years a Resident within the United States.

Long story short, the first US President born as a United States Citizen was Martin Van Buren, born in 1782 - and no, he did not receive a Vulcain Cricket ; )

Now history notes that the first sitting US President to receive a Vulcain Cricket was indeed President Truman in 1953 (although the case back on his gold Vulcain Cricket was engraved 1952).

But - spoiler alert - he was not the first US President to wear a Vulcain Cricket!

My new book on the history of the Vulcain Cricket and the Presidents of the US will be released in March, and all will be revealed! 

Stay tuned for preorder information.

The 415 ES Pure 39 mm

 From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

The 415 ES Pure is a bi-compax, hand-winding chronograph. The case is of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter. The movement is the Sellita SW510 M.

The retail price is 2.390,00 €

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

DIMENSIONS
Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 13.50 mm
Lug to Lug: 46 mm

MATERIAL
Satin/polished stainless steel
Anti-magnetic case
Shockproof/shock-protected with Hanhart movement damping as additional shock protection

BEZEL
Bezel with black ceramic inlay
Can be rotated on both sides with 60 clicks
Crown with distinctive Hanhart “h” of the historic wing logo

GLASS
High-domed, internally anti-reflective sapphire crystal

CASE BACK
Screwed case back
Engraved, consecutive serial number

WATER RESISTANCE
Up to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310


MOVEMENT

CALIBER
Manual winding
Base: Sellita SW510 M
28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
23 jewels

POWER RESERVE
58 hours after full winding

FUNCTIONS
Minute hand and stop-second hand curved at the end to avoid parallax errors
Hacking seconds
Small second
30-minute counter


DIAL

DIAL
Historic wing logo
Black dial
Tachymeter scale
Red hundred scale (industrial minute)

NUMBERS
Super-LumiNova® X2 coated

HANDS
Super-LumiNova® X1 coated


STRAP

STRAP
Calfskin
Alcantara on the inside for comfort
Lug width 20 mm

COLORS
Black
Dark brown
Light brown

BUCKLE
Stainless steel pin buckle

Just When I Thought I'd Seen It All From Mido...

So I am, more often than I care to admit, conflicted by my watch collection. I don't own anything to rival many of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, and I take some personal pride in that. The quality of a watch, and therefore one's watch collection, shouldn't be solely dictated on the retail price tag.

I don't go full "shock value" in terms of aesthetics, but I get bored pretty quickly by the "codes" insisted upon by many. How many black and blue dialed diver and chronographs can one person own? Don't answer that one ; )

One particular avenue that I keep going back and forth on is the Mido Commander. Most specifically the sub grouping referred to as the Mido Commander 1959. I finally bought a brand new one in Zurich back in 2021. I have worn it semi-sparingly, and keep toying with the idea of buying another. As I was making my semi-annual perusal of the collection on Mido's website, I came across this -

Courtesy of Mido

Mido describes the dial this way:
Printed "Pixel" pattern garnished in Super-LumiNova®

And I have to say, gentle reader, I am now officially a little obsessed. The Commander, for many, is far from an obvious choice. That is part of its attraction for me. Pretty much all of the Commander 1959 family is static - stainless or gold PVD with one wild-card in (I believe) black PVD. And that's okay. But just as Ralph Lauren shook up fashion with pairing seemingly unlikely themes such as formal and western, this Mido Commander has taken a classic (and sometimes dated feeling) design and pumped some much needed some mojo into it.

Courtesy of Mido

Now I fully get that this might not be everyone's jam, and that's okay (meaning there will hopefully be one available after I conduct negotiations with my piggy bank). In the end, unless we are talking about watches purchased to stick in a safe never to be seen until an estate sale once the owner has slipped off their mortal coil, a watch should solely speak to the wearer. We spend far too much of our lives trying to please and impress others, when we might be happier if we also considered (at least in terms of what we wear on our wrists) what pleases us.

So, if you are an unwitting member of the Henki Tribe and find yourself also pulled to this version of Mido's Commander 1959, here are some pertinents -

The case is of stainless steel, and I believe still utilizing the monocoque design and construction, less the much vaunted (and missed) Aquadura cork seal for the crown. It measures 37 mm in diameter. The bracelet is Milanese mesh. The movement is listed by Mido as Mido Automatic ETA. No day or date for this version of the Commander 1959 which I presume is owning to limitations of the dial's materials.

Priced fairly at $740.00

Mido fans here in the lower 48 are aware of the challenges of finding a Mido retailer, let alone one with this unique piece, but it might be worth the search!

Nostalgia And Watch Town

If the news reported by Miss Tweed is to believed, it would seem that Mr. Kern has his eye on another mostly defunct brand - Gallet.

Now this is curious, and I suspect that it has been secured for far less than Universal Geneve. Gallet had been force fed through a drip iv for the past 20 years, including one ill-advised BaselWorld misfire many years back. Very expensive chronographs that by all accounts never really took off, the website went dark some time ago, and I suspect that the the person pumping the money in is somewhat relieved that someone else will take Gallet over.

So let's see if the Miss Tweed's sources have read the tea leaves correctly, and maybe Gallet will fly high again.

With the market space in Watch Town already becoming increasingly bloated, I honestly have to wonder if this would be the best move. From a strictly fiscal perspective, there are wiser ways to spend your money. It's a gamble. You go back to the well too many times, things can go South. But on the other hand, everyone loves a re-birthed watch brand.

The truth is Breitling's history, reputation, it's arc as a brand had already been written long before Mr. Kern decamped IWC for Grenchen. But with Universal Geneve, and now possibly Gallet, Mr. Kerns can truly state that these were his, and it will likely be his legacy. And fair enough. We all want to make our mark, and be able to say we were "there when"...

We shall wait, and we shall see.

The BR-03 Astro

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest addition to the BR-03 family, the BR-03 Astro!

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The dial's main plate is crafted from aventurine, the Earth holding down the central axis, the floating Mars denotes the hours, with the Moon indicating the minutes. And for my fellow children of the 70s and 80s, the satellite does not necessarily represent Skylab prior to its return to Earth ; )

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Limited to 999 pieces, the case is of black ceramic, the movement is the Bell & Ross Calibre BR-CAL.327.

It is available now, and priced at $4,800.

Here are the pertinents -

• MOVEMENT

  Calibre BR-CAL.327. Self-winding mechanical movement. 54-hour power reserve.

• FUNCTIONS

  Hours, minutes, seconds.

• CASE

  41 mm wide, 11.50 mm thick. Micro-blasted black ceramic. Screw-down crown.

• DIAL

  Blue aventurine plate representing space. "Mysterious" hour hand – Mars –a transparent plate on which a representation of Mars is drawn. The minute hand – the Moon – is in laser-engraved metal to show the craters, and the second hand – the satellite – is also in laser-engraved metal. The Earth in the centre is recessed into the sapphire.

• CRYSTAL

  Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment, hollowed out to give relief to the Earth.

• WATER-RESISTANCE

  100 metres

• STRAP

  Black rubber and black synthetic fabric.

• BUCKLE

  Pin. Steel with matt black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) micro-blasted finish.

The 1944 Tanfana

From Grönefeld -

Courtesy of Grönefeld

This is the latest from Grönefeld, the 1944 Tanfana.

Per the guys at Grönefeld -

The 1944 Tanfana is the first Grönefeld ladies' model. The Horological Brothers found inspiration in the close surroundings of their hometown of Oldenzaal. This is where 'Tanfana', a goddess, once stood. Tanfana is considered a guardian of peace and harmony. The reference 1944 pays tribute to their beloved mother Netty's birth year.

This timepiece embraces new design codes and employs some materials not previously seen on a Grönefeld timepiece; however, it still subscribes to the same exacting standards which have attracted praise from legions of watch aficionados over the years.

The 1944 Tanfana is offered with a wide array of straps to choose from.

The Dial – Eminently Feminine

The dial of the 1944 Tanfana is formed of aventurine, a glossy midnight blue material incorporating numerous glinting metallic inclusions. Its geometric motif, known as the ‘Flower of Life’, enhances the dial's visual depth and texture. This pattern is linked to Sacred Geometry, an ancient discipline that explores the spiritual meaning of shapes and proportions often found in nature.

Extended Lancette hands, a style employed on the majority of Grönefeld timepieces, converse with applied trapezoidal indexes to pronounce the time clearly. The hands are formed of red gold, matching the indexes.

A small display sits at the base of the dial. It eschews the customary seconds hand and track combination in favour of an animated floral motif. As time passes and the floral motif rotates, it creates a mesmerising moiré effect, reminiscent of a flower endlessly blooming.

Beautifully Formed

Measuring 37.5 mm in diameter, the case of the 1944 Tanfana is intricately shaped. It incorporates a multitude of heights and unites different lines and curves, bestowing areas of brilliance and shade. The case execution is nuanced and sophisticated while contributing to the harmonious appearance of the watch. The crown features an aventurine cabochon mirroring the appearance of the dial.

Offered in Red Gold Au750 5N, gleaming surfaces abound. The 1944 Tanfana has a gem-set case and pin buckle, providing an additional quotient of sparkle. For example, the Red Gold Au750 5N Tanfana is specified with 233 brilliant cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.73 carats gracing the bezel, case and pin buckle.

Find out all the details here -

https://www.gronefeld.com/collection/1944-tanfana/1944-tanfana-br-red-gold/

Polar Express - 2 New Fliegers from Laco

These two new white-dialed fliegers just dropped from the nice folks at Laco -

Courtesy of Laco

The Augsburg (above) is a time only model. Beautiful in its simplicity, let's be honest - we all want this watch, I know that I certainly do!

But then again, there are those of you out there who want something more subtly military-ish, and not to worry, Laco has you covered!

Courtesy of Laco

Competitively priced at $540.00 US.

Here are the pertinents -

For the Augsburg:

Movement:

automatic movement Laco 2S   
basic movement Miyota 82S0
second hand stop

Case:

stainless steel case, sapphire crystal

Dial:

white, numbers with Superluminova C3 Blue Line, blue shimmering indexes

Hands:

thermal thermal blued hands, filled with luminous material Superluminova C3 Blue Line

Strap:

Brown leather strap with rivets

Please note: the used vintage leather makes every watch strap unique. Being a product of nature, it can present itself with color and structure variations.

Box:

grey gift watch box with zipper

Diameter:

39,0 mm

Height::

11,55 mm

Lug width:

18,0 mm

Lug to lug:

46,5 mm

Waterproof:

up to 5 ATM

Weight:

75 g (incl. strap)

Arm circumference:

15 - 20 cm

For the Aachen:

Movement:

automatic movement Laco 2S   
basic movement Miyota 82S0
second hand stop

Case:

stainless steel case, flat sapphire crystal

Dial:

white, numbers with Superluminova C3 Blue Line, blue shimmering indexes

Hands:

Thermal blued hands, filled with luminous material Superluminova C3 Blue Line

Strap:

Brown leather strap with rivets

Please note: the used vintage leather makes every watch strap unique. Being a product of nature, it can present itself with color and structure variations.

Box:

grey gift watch box with zipper

Diameter:

39,0 mm

Height::

11,55 mm

Lug width:

18,0 mm

Lug to lug:

46,5 mm

Waterproof:

up to 5 ATM

Weight:

75 g (incl. strap)

Arm circumference:

15 - 20 cm