Monday, May 31, 2021

A Personal Favorite

This is the Model 250 Vintage from RGM. It has long been a personal favorite of mine. 
Courtesy of RGM
RGM is in many ways the flag bearer for watch making in the US since the turn of the century, and justly so. And ever since I started following watches, I have longed to own one. 
Courtesy of RGM
I hope to sometime in the not-too-distant future to finally visit Lancaster and pick up one myself.  But for now I will admire it from afar ; )

Here are the pertinents, straight from RGM -


The 250 is a good size watch in diameter and in thickness, well suited for a larger wrist. The large Valgranges movement fills up the back of the watch and puts the calendar window in the ideal location for a watch of this size.

Movement Caliber: RGM/Valgranges - Swiss made automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph. Rhodium, finished in - Cote de Geneve, perlage

Functions: Hour / Minute / Second / Date

Case: Brushed & Polished Stainless Steel. 42.0mm X 15.0mm. Sapphire crystal front and back, 22 mm lug width and water-resistant to 5-ATM.

Weight: 3.3 oz. in stainless steel

Wednesday, May 26, 2021

The UR-105 Tantalum Hull

It would seem that this is the end of the line for the UR-105. But if you're gonna go, you might as well go out with a bang -

Courtesy of Urwerk
This is the final curtain for Urwerk's UR-105, and it certainly puts an exclamation mark on a spectacular series.

Courtesy of Urwerk

This is truly a countdown as there are only 12 pieces for this final version.  

Here are the pertinents -

Movement
Caliber:
UR 5.03, automatic winding regulated by twin turbines

Jewels:
52

Frequency:
28,800vph / 4Hz

Power reserve:
48 hours

Materials:
Satellite hour Geneva crosses in beryllium bronze; skeletonized carrousel in aluminum; skeletonized nickel-phosphorus LIGA digital seconds; carrousel and triple mainplate in ARCAP

Finishing:
Perlage, bead blasting, frosting
Screw heads with polished bevels
Hours and minute indexes hand-painted with Super-LumiNova

Indications
Satellite hours; minutes, digital seconds
Power reserve


Case
Material:
UR-105 CT “soap bar” case in titanium and tantalum

Dimensions:
Width: 39.5 mm; length: 53mm; height: 17.8 mm

Crystal:
Sapphire crystal

Water resistance:
Pressure tested to 30 m / 3 ATM

Strap:
Vulcarbon© rubber reference “Kiska” with black DLC buckle

Price
CHF 77,000 (Swiss francs, excluding tax)

The LEON Racing Edition

From Gorilla -
Courtesy of Gorilla Watches
This is the latest addition to the Gorilla stable, a watch that celebrates their new partnership with SUPER GT racing team, LEON PYRAMID AMG -
Any race team with a poster of Speed Racer in the pits has gotta' be pretty bitchin'!
Courtesy of Leon Racing
Kitted out in the livery of LEON PYRAMID AMG, the LEON Racing Edition is a wonderful evolution for Gorilla Watches. 
Courtesy of Leon Racing
While true to many aspects of previous Gorillas, this one clearly has moved the Gorilla design codes forward. It is limited to only 300 pieces, so if you want one, you'd better step on it!

The price on the windscreen?

$1'790 USD
excl. tax, incl. shipping


Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER

Miyota 90S5, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, exposed balance wheel, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS

Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL

Layered forged carbon case & bezel, anodized aluminium pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK

open titanium caseback, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL

Forged Carbon and anodized aluminum, applied numerals filled with Super-Luminova™, anodized aluminium flange, hands and hour markers filled with black and red Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL

Scratch resistant sapphire,
anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP

Bi-color Viton™

BUCKLE

Bi-color Viton™, titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS

44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE

100M/330FT/10ATM

LIMITED EDITION

300 pieces



Tuesday, May 25, 2021

More Urushi Goodness

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase
You may remember the blue Urushi, but the folks in Akitia-ken weren't done!  They dropped a green (above) and red (below) version as well.  As an FYI, per the Minase International website, there are only 2 left.
Courtesy of Minase

Here are the pertinents -

Prices are excluding of VAT, which will be added to the above price according to the shipping address at checkout.

Model: Divido Urushi Silver Maki-e dial

CaseStainless steel 316L. Domed box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating) on top, see-through sapphire case back. Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 Bar).

Dimensions40.5 mm. Thickness : 12,0 mm.

Lug to lug: 48 mm

Weight total150 g.

MovemenKT7001/1, power reserve 38 hours, Swiss ebauche, customized by MINASE with hand-made polishing and "perlage" on plates and bridges. Minase customized rotor.

FaceDeep blue, Green or Red Urushi sprinkled in silver Maki-e

Hands: polished, luminous material on hour and minute markers

Functions Hours, minutes and central second hands. Date at 3 o'clock.

Bracelet: Synthetic rubber band or 316L Stainless Steel bracelet with Steel deployment buckle.


CHF 5,350

Monday, May 24, 2021

Reconnecting

Sometimes, you need to take a moment and go back to that first kiss, the thing that got you started -
Courtesy of Swatch
I realize that it is inexpensive, quartz powered, and readily available. And truth be told, that to me is a big part of the appeal. A watch does not need to be expensive, highly complicated or extremely limited to be cool. I give you exhibit A, the Swatch TWICE AGAIN.  A wrist-full of cool for $80.

To quote that other great commentator on the watch business, Rakim (of Eric B. & Rakim):
"'Cause it ain't where you're from, it's where you're at."

Saturday, May 22, 2021

The Black Badger Strikes Again!

Courtesy of MW&Co.

Just when you thought your credit rating was safe, MW&Co. and the ever intrepid Black Badger himself, James Thompson is back with another collaboration, this time with MW&Co., known by insiders for offering limited "Asset" pieces. 

Ladies and Gentleman, children of all ages, I present to you the Asset Black Badger -
Courtesy of MW&Co.
This little dickens will be limited to 10 pieces only, and is available for pre-order through MW&Co.

And what's a Black Badger watch without just a wee bit of glow?
Courtesy of MW&Co.
The asking price is 13 475€ excluding VAT.

Here are the pertinents -

ASSET BLACK BADGER

COMPLICATION
Flyback chronograph 2 column wheels

CALIBER 3916A (SWISS MADE)
Mechanical automatic self winding movement developed by Eterna movements
169 components
Frequency 28 800 a/h
Power reserve 60h
35 jewels
Holding plate decorated by MW&Co
MW&Co in-house rotor

CASE
Exclusive unique architecture
77 tailor made components
Aerospace grade 5 titanium
Dimensions 46mm

STRAP
Handmade Veal leather
2 aerospace grade 5 titanium inserts
Aerospace grade 5 titanium buckle

Wednesday, May 19, 2021

Toki-Doki!

Okay, regular insomniacs... I mean readers!  Regular readers will know that I lived in Japan for a bit in the early to mid nineties. I was not as aware of watches then as I am now, which given my very limited salary was probably just as well. That being said, while there was cool stuff around then, things have gotten very interesting the last two years in terms of independent and micro brands. And for those of you sharp of credit card, and nimble of wifi connectivity - you will have your opportunity this Friday (that's two days from now) to order something very special from one of the world's preeminent watch makers, Hajime Asaoka -
Courtesy of Kurono Tokyo
And what is Kurono Tokyo? It is a sincere and very welcome effort from Asaoka-san (or Hajime Sensei depending on which honorific you prefer), to offer a truly beautiful everyday watch at a price that everyday watch fans might be able to afford. This one marks the second anniversary of this project.

Previous models have sold faster than the waffle's sexier cousin, the hotcake. So much so that the inevitable arrival of speculators has driven up resale prices of earlier offerings quite dramatically in the secondary market. So much so that the man behind this noble project has decided to take matters into his own hands to ensure that anyone who wants one will have an opportunity to own one.

すごい
(that's amazing to you)
Courtesy of Kurono Tokyo
This is the KURONO ANNIVERSARY  朱鷺:TOKI
And in their own words:

BACK TO BEGINNINGS

The Kurono Anniversary special edition is a significant part of the brand line-up. It serves as an important reminder of our humble beginnings and the reason why the initiative was started - To create high-quality, Japan-made luxury timepieces that shares the design DNA of celebrated independent Japanese watchmaker Hajime Asaoka's exclusive handmade atelier watches.


Because of this, we spend a little more time in the consideration of every year's anniversary watch not just on the design phase, but across the entire manufacture process to deliver on two core promises - That every Anniversary watch will be exceptional yet highly affordable; and that whoever that has been waiting for one shall get one. 


To understand Kurono Anniversary is to understand Hajime Asaoka's philosophy as a watchmaker - his personal beliefs, inclinations, and motivations - and his approach to this year's Kurono Anniversary watch. It is our hope that his words will give you a better insight to the beginnings of this initiative, and the result of almost a year of planning - Kurono Tokyo is proud to present the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI. 


This year's anniversary watch is something Hajime-sensei crafted first and foremost as a watch he himself would like to wear, and then to extend his personal sense of style and refinement to a wider audience. 


The new Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki is priced at priced at USD1,738 / JPY189,900, and is available for time-limited order on 21st May 2021 2300hrs JST at www.kuronotokyo.com


So watch fans, here's the 10 minute drill:
Online orders will be open for 10 minutes ONLY.  BUT - every order that comes in within that time period will be honored.  

And one VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
You must have a registered account to be able to order.  You can (and should, if you hope to order within the 10 minute window) create that account with this link:


So set your alarms and reminders, here are the times as listed -

Pre-orders start 21st May 2021 2300hrs JST
JST 23:00 PM - Tokyo, Japan 
PST 07:00 AM - California, United States
EST 10:00 AM - New York, United States
CET 16:00 PM - Central European Time
GST 18:00 PM - Dubai, United Arab Emirates
AEST 00:00 AM - Canberra, Australia 
SGT 22:00 PM - Singapore, Singapore

Delivery: Starting Mid-June 2021
Price: JPY189,900 / USD1,738 excluding applicable taxes

Here are the pertinents -

SPECIFICATIONS

  • Premium-grade Miyota 90S5 movement
  • Mechanical automatic winding 
  • 316L high-polished 37mm stainless steel case
  • Case Diameter: 37mm
  • Thickness: 7mm incl sapphire
  • Bracelet Strap: Black calf leather
  • Dial Finish: Metallic coral radial sunburst
  • Power Reserve: 40 hours
  • Jewels: 24 rubies
  • Glass: Sapphire crystal
  • Frequency: 28,800bph
  • Water Resistance: 3 ATM
  • Strap Widths: 20/16mm
  • Made in Japan

Tuesday, May 18, 2021

One Size Fits All - Not Always! The Essence 43

From Formex -
Courtesy of Formex
Rounding out a really impressive re-brand, this new version of the Essence has all the awesome goodness of its predecessors, but returns to the 43 mm format with a new, restrained and (dare I say it) pretty fab logo.
Courtesy of Formex
As the previous iterations of the Essence, it features the patented case suspension system. And under the hood is a COSC chronometer movement.
Courtesy of Formex
It is available in five difference color options.
Courtesy of Formex
And the choice doesn't stop there. Not everyone wants a steel bracelet, well Formex has you covered with several different strap options including rubber and leather. Thanks to the Formex configurator you can make it the way you want it.
Courtesy of Formex
And best of all, a very affordable price - $1,390 US with bracelet and $1,280 with strap.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Swiss Made Sellita SW200-1 (self-winding) Automatic (Chronometer grade), officially certified by COSC. 26 jewels and glucydur balance wheel. Date display. Custom-built skeleton rotor with thermally blued screws. 38 hours power reserve.

CASE
Diameter: 43mm
Height: 10.6mm
Lug width: 22mm
Lug-to-lug: 49mm
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)
Weight: 80g (case only)

MATERIAL
Bezel: Stainless steel 316L
Case: Stainless steel 316L
Glass: Sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflection treatment

STRAP
Italian calf leather straps with curved spring bars, Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System.
Black rubber strap with curved spring bars, Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System.
Stainless steel bracelet with Quick Release and Micro-extension function.
All Essence straps and the bracelet can be changed by hand without the use of tools. The carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented fine adjustment system can be changed without tools and can be used for all Essence FortyThree & REEF leather and rubber straps marked "deployant".

DIAL
Blue, Black, Green, White, Brown Dégradé. Vertical brush finish with hand-sprayed gradient (Dégradé ). Horizontal lines that have been CNC-machined individually into the dial plate. Hand-applied Formex icon and hour markers.

Monday, May 17, 2021

Doing Good - the Big Bang Unico SORAI

From Hublot -

Courtesy of Hublot
I really, really like rhinos. And needless to say, I would like to see them, and elephants, lions and every other wonderful animal not only survive, but thrive. 

It is nice to see Hublot pick up the call to action and support SORAI  in their mission to protect endangered wildlife.
Courtesy of Hublot

This is a limited edition of 100 pieces, and since Hublot is nice enough to do this, to support the efforts of SORAI, I thought I'd let them tell the story in their own words -
Courtesy of Hublot

With dedicated and consistent actions undertaken to protect the rhino, poaching – the biggest threat to their existence in Africa – continued slowly but steadily to decline up to 2020.

 

Over the last 10 years, two thirds of the rhinos in South Africa’s Kruger Park have been killed by poachers. Black rhinos in Kruger Park have disappeared dramatically and today there are estimated to be less than 500 remaining.

 

Hublot is using its global reach, and reconfirming its support for Kevin Pietersen and SORAI – Save Our Rhino Africa India – with the release of a new edition of the Big Bang SORAI, inviting 100 future owners to help support this cause for our planet. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will be donated exclusively to Care for Wild – the largest rhino sanctuary in the world, supported by SORAI – for it to use as it sees fit.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Hublot -


CASE
REFERENCE
411.GX.5220.NR.SOA21
DIAMETER:
45 mm
CASE:
Microblasted and Polished Green Ceramic
BEZEL:
Microblasted and Polished Green Ceramic
WATER RESISTANCE:
100m or 10 ATM
CRYSTAL:
Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
DIAL:
Matte Green Skeleton with “Rhinoceros” Applique at 9 o'clock

MOVEMENT
MOVEMENT:
HUB1242 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel
POWER RESERVE:
72 Hours

STRAP & CLASP
STRAP:
Green Fabric Strap with Microblasted Black Ceramic Buckle
CLASP:
Microblasted Black Ceramic Buckle

Sunday, May 16, 2021

The "cca"

I am (I have come to believe) a glamorous  industrialist trapped in a somewhat anonymous teacher / social worker's body.  Picture Gianni Agnnelli a little more unkempt and not as glamorous, wealthy, handsome or charismatic. But that does not mean I don't have dreams ; )

A perusal of Chrono24 will reveal a plethora of very expensive watches that do indeed offer the functions one would look for in perpetual and/or annual calendars, but the dials are so cluttered, and "blessed" with micro-sized indicators and teeny-weeny printing that you need to use your iPhone's camera with zoom to actually read your wonderful watch with all of the great features. And did I mention that they were really, really expensive?

Enter the calendario cent’anni, “cca” -

Courtesy of ochs und junior
Having a watch with great complications is, well, great! But it's no good if you can't read them. The designer of the ochs und junior calendario cent'anni, "cca" seems to have climbed into my brain and created the watch that I had always wanted - I just didn't know it yet. 

As mentioned at the top, I would like to think that I am far more dashing and cosmopolitan than I probably am. But one point I am unwilling to bend on is that I will not praise a watch as awesome if I can't even read it. And in that vein, it is as if ochs und junior had listened to every frustration I have ever experienced in trying to discern the actual functions of my "multifunction" watches and created something that would give me the watch that I always wanted. I mean really, what a nutty idea, a 100 year calendar watch that you can actually read

But apart from the simply functionality, I particularly love this white dial version not only for its readability, but for the wonderful contrast and interplay of the dial (white) indices (black) and indicators (mostly orange). It is beautiful in its simplicity. And as a reminder, simple is the opposite of dumb. Simple is genius, and simple is beautiful.

And while I realize that the cca is not an insignificant purchase, keep in mind that where we are now, is not where we will always be. I have that on very good authority from the current Secretary General of the United Nations -
Henki (much younger and thinner) teaching his class and the Prime Minister of Portugal - António Manuel de Oliveira Guterres in Vila do Conde, Portugal in 1995

Needless to say, we were both younger and more handsome back then ; )

Now I'm not saying my "dream watch" should be yours - a watch is a very, very personal thing. But what I am suggesting is that it's okay to dream about things, and to imagine what might be one day. I never would have thought a Northern Youth like myself would see the sun rise over Tokyo Bay, or glimpse the the midnight sun in Finland.  And I certainly never expected that the future Secretary General of the United Nations would walk into my classroom with his security detail (and me without a valid work permit), but it just goes to show that anything is possible.

It has been a long, long winter.  We are nearly out of the woods, and to quote one of my favorite professors from the University of Oregon - "we've been there and back."  But what I have come to believe more and more these past few weeks, is that anything is possible, good can overcome bad, and that you should always be open to dreaming - even if that dream is for a material item ; )

I wish you all a safe journey to the end of this particularly dark time, I wish Secretary Guterres 
God's Speed as he and his team work to hold us together and save us from ourselves.

I know that these are challenging and serious times, but take some time out to dream, to imagine, and you know what - it's okay, take time to enjoy your watches.

Friday, May 14, 2021

Keeping the Faith - Holthinrichs

After a year long winter that seems to have lasted a decade, we are slowly seeing a potential new spring cautiously peeking around the next corner, but for many it could still be a few months off. COVID has pretty much kicked the snot out of all of us.

The big dogs who were able to keep moving and (as far as I know) also managed to keep the majority of their teams employed are to be commended for their resilience. 

But what has been most impressive (to me) has been not merely the resilience, but the blossoming of a handful of small, and I'm going to use one of my most hated words here - artisanal brands. 

And this is now one of those times when my writing and watches that I personally own converge, this is now a: 

"Why I Bought It/My Opinion As Fact" piece -


Now I can only go by what I see on wrists of some of my erstwhile colleagues from the Fourth and Fifth Estate at BaselWorld (and again, it's been a minute), but I think it is safe to say that I tend to worship at a different church than most of them.

You may have noticed those large banner ads and "sponsored posts" here at Tempus Fugit... oh yeah! That's right, this is a self-funded venture! So to that end, I tend to spend my dollars pretty selectively. More to the point, true confession - I don't tend to buy watches other than the occasional Swatch these days. Don't get me wrong, I have a weakness for sneakers and fountain pens. But when it comes to watches I have gotten to a point where I truly am not all that interested in getting anything new, with a few possible exceptions. More to the point, I have sold or simply given away just about my entire personal collection. So it takes something special to get my attention.

Enter the Holthinrichs Raw Ornament "Henkitime" -

I have known Michiel Holthinrichs for a little while. He was a founding member of Roderich Hess's Wine and Time event at BaselWorld, and is a HYPE2019 alumnus. And it was during Basel 2019 that I became, well, somewhat obsessed with the idea of getting a Raw Ornament for myself. A plan was hatched - slow, steady monthly payments to the Holthinrich's account were even more slowly accumulated, a final version was agreed upon, and last week my erstwhile obsession became a wrist bound reality -


Now to understand why the Raw Ornament is the Shit That Killed Elvis (remember, this is my opinion as fact), it's important to understand "What Makes Henki Run". I have spent the better part of two decades living and working in Watch Town. While there are many beautiful watches made by exciting brands, I tend to gravitate away from the obvious.

I once went to a job interview where the second question asked was - 

"What is your favorite ice cream flavor?"  

For the record, it's pistachio. 

And if I think about so much of what is out there, on offer from the mighty to the small is either vanilla or chocolate. Or in some instances, a runny sicky-sweet version of rocky road. Or put another way, shock for shock value.

But what is special about what the folks at Holthinrichs are doing is borne out in the resulting watches. Watches are made one by one, and with the exception of the 3D printing machine, everything else is done by hand. Yes, they could simply send the case design to a case maker and simply bang out a bunch of them all at once. It would be faster and certainly cheaper, but that is not the watch that Michiel Holthinrichs and his team are interested in making. 

And odd though it sounds, you can feel that dedication when you put it on your wrist. Not just see it, but feel it.

There are plenty of nice watches out there. And I can't and won't attempt to speak for anyone but myself. But with so much choice out there, when you plump for something special, it ought to really be something special. The Raw Ornament is special (even without the custom "Henki" iconography). And the best thing about what Team Holthinrichs is doing? Yes they are making watches, but it is much more than that. A Holthinrichs watch is made with passion and integrity, and while it would have been easy to copy someone else's designs, they have stayed true to their vision. And as I said before, you don't just see it.  You feel it. And in all honesty?  That's why you should want it.

Thursday, May 13, 2021

The BR 05 SKELETON NIGHTLUM

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
Available on a bracelet (above) or on a rubber strap (below) -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross
And what's a NIGHTLUM without Lume?

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
Here are the pertinents -

Limited Edition of 500 pieces.

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.322. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes and seconds.

Case: 40 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight.

Dial: skeleton with smoked sapphire plate and black movement. Applique indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Strap: black rubber or satin-finished and polished steel.

Buckle: folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The Nasir Collection

From Bereve -

Courtesy of Bereve
Available in the three color options above, and also this one (below) -
Courtesy of Bereve
Here are the pertinents, straight from Bereve -

Nasir is the newly Bereve Timepieces homage to the Arab culture, and its fascinating writing forms.

A truly 100% Swiss Made project in the conception, development, manufacturing and used components.
A dial base either in 999 silver or pure white gold available in white, black or green combines two ancient techniques. The one given by the Arabic calligraphy and the other used for the enamel Champlevé.

Through a very ancient method the enamel has been mixed with the finest white gold powder. This technique makes the background recalling universe and infinity.

The timepiece is equipped with the reliable Swiss Made Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movement.
Eight references available in 316LM steel and white gold case, in a limited numbered series: 100 units in Stainless steel 316LM and 25 pieces in white gold.
Here is Bereve Timepieces latest inspiration.
Bereve where independent watchmaking meets art.

Wednesday, May 12, 2021

The Lionne Sheherazade

From Claude Meylan -

Courtesy of Claude Meylan
Here are the pertinents, straight from Claude Meylan:

Movement:
Peseux 7040
Skeleton

Case:
10μ-yellow gold plated case
Ø 35 mm
Self winding
Roman numerals
Crystal back
Sapphire front crystal
3 atm-water resistant
Satin strap

Price - CHF 2,690