Something Unexpected

From Kobold -

Courtesy of Kobold

Sometimes it pays to explore a website.  Typically you think of Kobold, you think of rugged watches on the wrists of real-world action heroes.  And fair enough, with watches like the Soarway Diver they have secured that space.  But what did I find in the accessories section?  A really cool pair of cuff links with what we referred to in Finnish as jääkarhu - Polar Bears!

The Historiques Cornes de vache 1955

From Vacheron Constantin -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin 

Just the facts, straight from the source -

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Reference 

5000H/000R-B059
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Caliber 

1142
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, manual-winding
27.50 mm (12’’’) diameter
5.57 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
164 components
21 jewels

Indications 

Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 9h
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter) 

Case 

18K 4N pink gold
38.50 mm diameter, 10.90 mm thick Transparent sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial 

Silvered opaline center with sun-brushed external zone (minute-track and tachometer scale)
18K 4N gold applied hour-markers
18K gold hour, minutes and small seconds hands Blued steel chronograph and 30-minute counter
hands

Straps 

Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales 

Buckle 

18k 4N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped 

The Social Contract of Social Media

This post has been on the shelf for nearly a year, but it seems time to air it out.

For most of us who write about watches in the digital arena, we don't do it for money.  True enough, our blogs might have advertising - such as this one, but by and large that is where it begins and ends.

Blogs, and blogs that have evolved into online magazines started out life as an alternative to magazines that more often than not were constrained by the need to drive advertising revenue.  It opened up a whole new world where people would tune in with the hopes of getting some viewpoints and opinions that were not fueled and channeled directly through the marketing arm of Richemont, LVMH or the SWATCH Group.  And perhaps more importantly, it did not cost the reader anything.  It was free to read, and you didn't have to drive to a book store or news stand.

But then another interesting thing started to happen -
The number of people checking out these alternative watch sites began to far outstrip the number of magazine readers.  And suddenly real analytics were possible!  And even more suddenly what had been a vehicle to promote a decidedly niche product to a clearly more niche market became a mechanism to subvert the role of independent writer and pump favorable content directly in front of this now much larger audience via an electronic delivery system.  In other words, payola arrived.

For those of you not familiar, here is a definition from our friends at Urban Dictionary -

payola

Bribery made to a dj in exchange for promotion of an album or single. Derived from the words 'pay' (give money to) and 'victrola' (a record player).You'd need to offer some serious payola to get your song played.

And that opened up a whole new paradigm.  Wonder how an online magazine or blog with multiple writers can afford to provide for so many people, with no visible ads?  Ever wonder why a brand that has never seen the light of day on that blog suddenly makes multiple appearances?  

And then things took an even darker turn.  The way things are supposed to work for a brand is:

1.  You draft a press release regarding a new brand or product

2.  You spend time and/or money putting together a list of blogs, magazines, etc.

3.  You send it out and, for the most part, the blogs will run it.

Now a quick peek behind the curtain - 

The way that it should work is that the blogger will review what they receive, and if it interests them and they feel it will interest their readers, they will run it.  In some instances, if there are personal or professional differences/ conflicts, etc., with the brand,  then the blogger might not run the release.  In addition, if the blogger has managed to alienate the brand through their writing, then it is entirely possible that the brand's pr/marketing team will pull a Donald Trump and refuse to communicate with them or send them press updates.  This is to be expected and I would say, fair enough.

Now it seems that with the owners of several of the blogs, "horological interest" is measured in terms of payment.  And to be clear by payment I do not mean advertising agreements, a watch received in barter for advertising or marketing or even simple good will.   I mean just what I am saying - payment required and received in exchange for coverage.

So what has now become standard for some of these outlets is that a rate sheet is sent to the brand manager or pr representative, not unlike a take out food menu:  

• To do a review  of your watch will cost you X.
• To announce your new brand will cost you Y.
• To REALLY pump your watch or brand will cost you Z.

Simply put, a fair amount of what you read in some of the bigger blogs and online magazines has been bought and paid for.

Now again, in fairness, if a brand supports a blog or online magazine with advertising, it is not unreasonable to expect coverage - in fact I believe that there is an implied social contract between the blog and the brand that requires a certain amount of coverage. 

Moreover, many bloggers do contract work for brands.  But that is a very separate matter that precludes "air time" on their blog or online magazine beyond the normal coverage.

But, and it's a big but, when a blog or online magazine requires payment in exchange for any sort of coverage, well then it is no longer what can even remotely be thought of as fair and impartial.  

Because there is another contract that is more than merely implied.  It is the social contract with the writer and the reader.

Doing Good - Bovet

This just in from Bovet -

Courtesy of Bovet

Hope Rising from the Rubble: 

BOVET 1822 Joins The Academy for Peace and Justice
in Port-au-Prince, Haiti to Celebrate its First Graduating Class 

June 27, 2016 (New York) – In a time of global unrest, Swiss timepiece manufacturer BOVET 1822 continues to support education in poor communities as a means of change. While Haiti remains the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere progress is being made. Thanks to the efforts of charity organizations such as Artists for Peace and Justice (APJ) and its dedicated partnership with BOVET 1822, access to middle and high school education for Haiti’s urban poor is becoming a reality. 

Courtesy of Bovet

Over 40 international APJ members and supporters traveled to Port-au-Prince to celebrate on June 19th. Along with APJ Founder and Academy Award® winning filmmaker Paul Haggis and BOVET owner and APJ supporter Pascal Raffy, Ben Stiller, Christine Taylor, Susan Sarandon and Maria Bello were among those who made the trip to celebrate the Academy for Peace and Justice’s first graduating class and the opening of its newest building. They are all regular visitors to Haiti and have been dedicated advocates for the project since its inception.

Pascal Raffy was an early supporter of the APJ cause. At the end of 2013, he was so moved by what he experienced working with APJ that he pledged an official, long-term partnership between his company and the charity. BOVET would contribute $1 million of support annually for at least five years to ensure that 100% of all public donations to APJ would go directly to their programs in Haiti. Mr. Raffy made the trip to Haiti in 2014 after signing the long-term partnership to see first-hand where the students lived and the efforts being made at the Academy. He returned resolute in his decision to support the children and their families together with APJ, ensuring that they receive the resources and education necessary to rise out of poverty.

APJ was created immediately following the 2010 earthquake that devastated Haiti when Paul Haggis gathered Hollywood friends in the backyard of his Santa Monica home. He had just returned from delivering humanitarian relief to Haiti and saw first-hand the enormity of what needed to be done next. Knowing that one-time, short-term commitments would not create the new institutions that the country so clearly needed, Haggis asked friends to make five-year commitments to build a dignified middle and high school for the very poor of Port-au-Prince.

With overwhelming support, the Academy for Peace and Justice was built over the following years in partnership with The St. Luke Foundation of Haiti and Haggis’s own Artists for Peace and Justice foundation. It was in these early days that Bovet supported their first fundraiser with APJ in LA at the beginning of 2012. The Academy was then just beginning, but growing by 400 students per year, it reached capacity in 2015 and now serves 2,600 students on full scholarship. The Academy also provides its students with year-round access to free medical care through St. Luke’s hospital.

On June 19th, 2016, Mr. Raffy returned to Port-au-Prince, Haiti to join Paul Haggis and other long-term supporters of the school to celebrate the Academy’s first graduating class. Mr. Raffy said of the momentous occasion, “I met the great Artists for Peace and Justice family during an evening on Sunset Boulevard. I then discovered Sun City [Cité Soleil in Port-au-Prince] with Father Rick [of The St. Luke Foundation of Haiti], this giant, who inspired my indefectible will to feed Haiti's children's hope based on education, perseverance and pride. June 19th, 2016 celebrates our collective integrity, the sunrise of a new generation of excellence. They said it was impossible, but all together we did it. Congratulations to all the teachers, without whom this dream could not become a reality.” 

Following Haiti’s 2010 earthquake, a whopping $10 billion in foreign aid commitments were made but the delivery of that assistance and much of the reconstruction and development process had been mired in broken promises, short term investments and failed projects, leaving Haiti with very few new institutions and infrastructure. APJ, however, has not faltered in its dedication to building important new learning institutions dedicated to helping Haiti’s youth rise from poverty with dignity. BOVET continues to stand in support of APJ’s ability to make real progress and continue the efforts into the future. 

Founder Paul Haggis says, “What a long way we’ve come from the devastation of the 2010 earthquake. The broken buildings and shattered hopes have been no match for the tireless work of Father Rick [of The St. Luke Foundation for Haiti], our staff, all of our supporters and our students. The day has finally arrived—we welcome our first ever graduating class at the Academy. I cannot begin to convey the pride that I have for their hard work against unbelievable odds to reach this monumental day. The pride of a nation will walk with our students into a brighter future.”

The long-term charitable commitment made by BOVET and its owner, Pascal Raffy, represents the efforts of a member of the luxury market contributing back to the world. Pascal Raffy stands firmly with APJ and its supporters in their aim to grow a new generation of Haitian leaders by providing access to quality secondary and higher education. The model and guiding principles of the Academy are simple: that a primary school education is not sufficient to break the cycle of endemic poverty. This is true as a global philosophy to raise others from poverty through access to education and that even luxury spending, when conducted through a principled House like BOVET, can contribute to betterment of communities around the world.

Doing Good - F.P. Journe

This just in from F.P. Journe -

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

Here are the details -

120'000.- euros for the Centigraphe Souverain F.P.Journe unique timepiece sold at auction in favor of the ICM
The charity gala for the ICM, Brain and Spinal Cord Institute, took place at the Conciergerie in Paris in the presence of many prestigious guests. F.P.Journe has created for the occasion, a unique timepiece of his model the Centigraphe Souverain in Platinum, producing a dial in blue mother of pearl featuring the ICM logo. It sold for 120’000.- euros and the entire amount has been given to ICM.
François-Paul Journe is saying: “I am proud to support the ICM and its scientific research since 2004 to discover new treatments for nervous system disorders such as Alzheimer, Parkinson or multiple sclerosis. We all have someone in our family suffering from one of these diseases and our only hope is to contribute in finding a treatment.” 

The ICM institute is the world largest research laboratory that gathers in the heart of the Hospital Pitié- Salpêtrière in Paris, over 700 researchers, doctors and patients, playing an essential role in the process of discovery and treatment for nervous system disorders.

Wrapping Up - Seven Days with the Frederique Constant Manufacture Worldtimer

Seven days have come and gone.  And the time has come to warp the review up.

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

There are a lot of watches and a lot of watch brands out there vying for our attention.  

The Chronofighter Vintage Collection

From Graham -

Courtesy of Graham

Here are the pertinents -

Functions 

Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counters). Day-date at 9 o'clock Hours, minutes, seconds 

Calibre 

Calibre G1747, automatic chronograph , 28'800 A/h (4Hz), Incabloc shock absorber 25 jewels
Power reserve : 48 hours 

Case 

44 mm steel case
Steel fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher Steel bezel
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating See-through sapphire crystal case back 

Water resistance 

330feet/100m/10bar 

The G50 Solotempo - in GREEN

From Orolgi Calamai 

Courtesy of Orologi Calamai

Aviation, flying a plane?  Yes, that is serious business.  But for those who are passionate about it?  I suspect that it is also fun!  This is the counter point to the Orologi Calamai piece I wrote about earlier.    Bright white dial, bright red logo, and a wonderfully green outer chapter ring!

I saw one of these at BaselWorld and I must say - it is special!

Now to be clear, there is nothing wrong with a black dialed pilot's watch!  That is, after all, the standard.  But flying can be fun - even liberating!  And that is the feeling I get from the G50 Solotempo in its green livery.

We will have to see if a review might be possible one day, but for now,  remember that travel doesn't have to be dreaded, and flight can be fun!

A Rose by any other Name...

Okay, this one just in from the bureau of goofy partnerships -

AXL ROSE JOINS HYT FAMILY

Courtesy of HYT

Now to be completely honest, when I first saw this photo I thought that perhaps one of Mr. Rose's tattoos had become infected and this was some sort of public service announcement.  But fear not!  HYT is ready to "take you down to the Paradise City" with this (apparently) exciting partnership.

So as goofy and unlikely a partnership as it is, that goofiness is only surpassed by the bon mots of founder and board member Vincent Perriard -

"Axl and HYT share the same unconventional attitude. I can feel this partnership is going to be very Rock’n’roll!"

I have absolutely no idea what in the hell that's supposed to mean.

What is it about people who seem sane, rational and capable in their business lives absolutely lose their senses when an idol from their teenage years hoves into view?

Be that as it may, here's the release in full detail, you can read it for yourself and draw your own conclusions -

Axl Rose & HYT: Get Ready to Rock’n’roll

Courtesy of HYT

HYT is honored to count Axl Rose as a new "Friend of the Brand", partnering with the iconic singer and founder of legendary rock band Guns N' Roses, announced today. In honor of Rose joining the HYT family, a limited-edition watch will be created to celebrate this new friendship.

"Axl is a huge fan of watches in general but when he came across HYT he was really blown away! » explains Vincent Perriard (HYT Co-founder & Board Member). « Axl and HYT share the same unconventional attitude. I can feel this partnership is going to be very Rock’n’roll!".

Mehmet Korutürk, Co-Founder of Magnat Creative Agency adds : "We are really excited to be part of the collaboration between Mr. Axl Rose – a true rock icon – and HYT, one of the most cutting edge companies in Haute Horlogerie. "

This partnership will be based on the creation of a limited edition of one of HYT’s most iconic timepieces: the Skull. The watch will be presented at the next SIHH, in January 2017 in Geneva.

For touring information please check : www.gunsnroses.com and www.acdc.com.

The MR 1770 Haute Voltige

From Manufacture Royale -

Courtesy of Manufacture Royale

Here are the pertinents -

1770 Haute Voltige

Movement:

Calibre MR07, Self-winding mechanical movement 

36 mm diameter, 9.45 mm thick.  Power reserve of 40 hours.

Hand decorated Plate with Côtes de Genève finishing, 5N engraving. Hours, minutes and second time zone.

Case:

45 mm black pvd micro blasted stainless steel

Strap:

Alligator