More from Auguste Reymond

It seems the more I "dip my toe" in the Auguste Reymond pond, the more I find that I like!

Courtesy of Auguste Reymond

This is from Auguste Reymond's Magellan collection.  And I have to say that it is pretty swell!

The Belluna Heures & Minutes Décentrées

From Mido

Courtesy of Mido

I have to say that as the months have progressed, Mido keeps impressing.  And this latest offering has set the bar pretty high!

Limited-Edition Freaklab

Available exclusively at Ulysse Nardin's boutiques.

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Limited Edition to 99 pieces

Reference 2103-138_CF-BQ

Movement:

Caliber UN-210
Movement indicates the time and the date
1 Hour Tourbillon
UlyChoc security system on regulating organ

Power Reserve:
7 days

Frequency:
4Hz (28,800 v/h)

Moment of Inertia:
8 mg*cm2, adjusting over 4 screws

Hairspring:
Silicium, exclusive Ulysse Nardin design

Escapement:
Exclusive Dual Ulysse escapement in silicium, non-lubricated

Orbite:
1 revolution in one hour

Winding:

Manual winding over the back of the case

1 full rotation is equivalent to 12 hours of power reserve

Functions:
H/M displayed by the rotation of the movement Date

Time Setting:
Unlock device and turn bezel forward

Date Setting:
Counterclockwise rotation of the time setting bezel

Case:
Blackened titanium, bezel in carbon fiber

Diameter:
45 mm

Strap:
Black leather with carbon fiber motif 

And the ‘Best Chronograph Watch’ is...

The TEC1 from Arnold & Son!

Courtesy of Arnold & Son

So here's the news, straight from the source -

Arnold & Son is proud to announce the TEC1 winner of the ‘Best Chronograph Watch’. Awarded during the 11th Edition of the Middle East Premier Awards 2015

Andy Warhol's Coin Watch

Has been acquired by the Corum Museum.

Courtesy of Corum

Having moved from the Warhol Collection to a private collector, it is now back home in La Chaux-de -Fonds.

Bryan Ferry and H. Moser & Cie.

And the "news" from H. Moser & Cie.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.

Enough.  Can we please have a "cease and desist" order on all of the ego tripping?  Can we go one week without a watch brand trotting out a "partner watch" that is nothing more than a thinly veiled attempt to "pal around" with a celebrity or a celebrity angling to do likewise with a watch brand?

The latest announcement from H. Moser & Cie. finds me somewhat conflicted.  Not as much a "money flush" as Tag Heuer acting as a cash machine for celebrities to wear their watches, and I am a HUGE Bryan Ferry/Roxy Music fan, but this is reinforcing my belief that it is no longer about watches - and more importantly no longer about the CUSTOMERS.

A partnership where there is a sensible correlation I get - explorers wearing a specific watch for the purposes of exploration and giving an endorsement.  A "Moon Watch" and an astronaut.  In fact, I can even get behind Omega's blatant over-saturation with Bond watches because in the end there is always a humane twist - like the young man who was gifted one by Omega via Daniel Craig at the Spectre premier.  Add to that the vast amount of good works Omega does with Orbis and I think that this is a fair exchange.

Rolex has subtle, tasteful partnerships, and they have the Rolex Laureate program.  Glycine has even been with an astronaut.  All of these are subtle, not "in your face" tie-ins.  H. Moser & Cie. has taken great pains to inform us that it's "all about the watches", but clearly that depends on what day you check in.

But, I will leave it to you to decide, here's the info:

Courtesy of H.Moser & Cie.

H. MOSER & CIE. ANNOUNCES A VERY RARE LIMITED EDITION DESIGNED WITH ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING STYLE ICONS, 
BRYAN FERRY. 

Elegance and refinement are cornerstones for H. Moser & Cie. watch, and the company imbues these terms today with a touch of provocation, freshness and even irreverence. In an innovative design partnership, the iconic singer and musician Bryan Ferry and the Manufacture H. Moser & Cie. created a signature limited edition watch of 100 pieces, the Endeavour Small Seconds Bryan Ferry. This watch will be available from January 2016. The engaging dialogue between the Neuhausen watch Manufacture and this eternal gentleman, whose stylish dandy chic has an elegance of his own making, was immediate and mutual.

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.

Widely regarded as the embodiment of the glamorous and romantic worlds evoked by his songs, Ferry is also lauded as an icon of sartorial and personal cool and as an accomplished designer in his own right. Having studied Fine Art under Richard Hamilton at Newcastle, Ferry is renowned for creating the legendary Roxy Music album covers and now a new legend: the H. Moser & Cie. limited edition Endeavour Small Seconds Bryan Ferry. He discovered the creations of H. Moser & Cie. thanks to a mutual friend, and expressed his desire to collaborate in the creation of a special series bearing his name. This was the beginning of a partnership of rich exchanges, whose fruit is the Endeavour Small Seconds Bryan Ferry model. 

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.

Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., recalls: "I experienced Bryan Ferry when I was very young, through my parents, and I admire this artist and his impressive career. Since his debut as a leader of Roxy Music, he has pursued many of his own adventures, having just released his 15th solo album. When we met, I was touched by the passionate character of Bryan Ferry: by his enthusiasm and interest in everything. Watchmaking obviously fascinates him and it was a pleasure to work with him to develop the Bryan Ferry Limited Edition." 

Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.

For this exceptional watch, Bryan Ferry and H. Moser & Cie. designed it with a decidedly vintage aesthetic. Drawing on inspiration from the historic models from H. Moser & Cie., the Limited Edition references the dial details from specific H. Moser pocket watches: the dial is in a lacquered white with a matte finish and with figures whose aesthetic clearly evoke the past, combining black and touches of red. This retro look is enhanced by the minute track which emphasizes the edge of the dial, as well as the traditional for m of the blued hands. This classic, timeless creation has an ultimate elegance coupled with a sobriety and it displays, every so discreetly, the name of Bryan Ferry in red at 6 o’clock, instead of the usual "Swiss Made". Combined with a rose gold case with sculpted shapes with alternating polished and brushed surfaces, the buffed brown calfskin strap completes the Endeavour Small Seconds Bryan Ferry model. Available from January 2016 at H. Moser & Cie. retailer partners, for some very fortunate fans this will also be the opportunity to meet Bryan Ferry, in an exclusive, very rare, personal watch presentation. 

Tag Heuer Skis!

And this just in from the Bureau of Irrelevantly Dopey Partnerships -

Winter is here!
Presenting the TAG Heuer Stöckli skis. Made in Switzerland.

Courtesy of Tag Heuer

Yesterday in Malters in the heart of Switzerland in the Stöckli ski production factory, Luc Decroix, TAG Heuer International Sales Director, and Marc Gläser, CEO of Stöckli, are proud to present the TAG Heuer Stöckli Special Ski Edition.

TAG Heuer and Stöckli are both leading names in their fields, both are forward-looking brands focussed on technology and both are world-renowned Swiss companies. 

Now winter is here, we can rediscover the joys of skiing. In Switzerland, we are keeping tradition, expertise and excellence alive. At TAG Heuer, we not only develop our watchmaking expertise and stimulate our potential for innovation and creativity; as an Ambassador for Swiss heritage worldwide, we also champion Swiss values, including our love of the mountains. 

 I truly have NO idea what any of that is supposed to mean, or what it has to do with watches, but when in doubt, co-brand!

A first for the watch brand, TAG Heuer skis are a fine illustration of our passion for Swiss values; these skis are produced using state-of-the-art technology with the greatest respect for tradition thanks to the knowledge and expertise of Swiss ski manufacturer Stöckli. 

Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer and Chairman of the Watch Division of LVMH Group stated: "Pioneering, high-tech, precise, high-quality: both our brands have these qualities in common. These two Swiss brands have achieved remarkable success worldwide and are also primarily aimed at young people. TAG Heuer has long acted as Official Timekeeper at the Skiing World Cup and its affiliation with the world of skiing dates back to the 1980s. This is not, therefore, a new strategy, but rather a grateful recognition of this sport which is a pillar of tourism in our country."

Give me strength...

The Transfer Window Opens at Hautlence

And Guillaume Tetu has "left the building".

In a move that can only really be described as a "kick in the dick", the founder of the brand "is leaving the company to take up a new challenge".  What exactly that "new challenge" is remains wonderfully and seemingly intentionally vague.

In the words of Bill Muirhead :

"We wish Guillaume all the best for the new challenge in his professional career, as he will always remain for HAUTLENCE one of its key ambassadors. He has worked tirelessly to create models that have excited watch collectors all around the world. Since MELB Holding took over the company in March 2012, we have worked diligently with Guillaume to first re-structure its activities and then re-position the brand. The next phase of the HAUTLENCE story is an expansion phase that essentially requires brand building and commercial acumen.”

Nothing like a "back-handed" compliment as you walk through the door for the last time.
It has been a pretty bad year, and it looks as if it is only getting worse.  I feel confident that my colleagues in the 4th and 5th estates join me in wishing Mr. Tetu the best of luck in whatever the "new challenge in his professional career" is... let's hope he gets to keep his watch.

Turning Right - Again

With the events in Paris last week, I felt somehow drawn to France.  I was coming to Switzerland on business - you will get the full report shortly, but with my one free day, I really wanted to be here to pay my respects, and to visit another "cradle of horology" - Besançon.

So I put on my tourist "beret" and off I went.  And I made myself a promise.  Instead of making a plan and "sticking to it", when I felt the urge, I would "turn right", and see where it would take me.  And on Monday it took me to some truly wonderful places.  France is clearly still mourning, but judging from the spirit of the young people of Besançon this will be a temporary condition.

I was amazed to find a clock by none other than Alain Silberstein!

I spent the afternoon walking the city streets, speaking with anyone that was interested.  And at the MATY store I got to try on a watch that has been haunting me -

From the folks at LIP.  This piece of AWESOMENESS is now firmly on my "save pennies to purchase" list.  It is THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

I enjoyed a lunch the likes of which "Papa Hemingway" would have gone beyond his normal, journalistic prose to describe.

I was still reveling in the memory just before 5:00 PM when I stumbled into UTINAM .  It was a Monday, and yes, they were supposed to be closed.  But they very kindly let me in, and I had a quick peek around.  Yes, they have Dodane and other cool items.  But what caught my eye were the watches that the owner - Philippe Labru had created.  To be fair, the mechanical version had pride of place.  And although it is very, very cool, what I was really drawn to was this little bijoux -

It is a beautifully beguiling single-handed watch.  The design elements are SPOT ON!

And at 139 Euros - I could not say no!

So pals and gals, if you haven't considered it, visit Besançon - you will be better for the experience!

Cotton Club Moonphase Orbital

Or to put it succinctly - a truly intriguing new watch from Auguste Reymond.

There are moonphase watches, and then there are moonphase watches!  This is the latest take on a complication that is often done, but seldom done in an intriguing or interesting way.  Instead of a display of approximately what the phase of the moon is in YOUR neighborhood, this little baby displays where it is in relation to THE WORLD.

Pretty cool!

This is a patented feature per Auguste Reymond.


Here are the details -

Case material	Stainless steel
Case finishing	Blue PVD
Crystal	Domed sapphire
Case back	Snap transparent
Water resistance	8 bar (80m/266ft)
Case dimension (mm)	42.8
Case thickness (mm)	12.9
Strap width (mm)	22/20
Movement type	AR.1190
Rewinding	Automatic mechanical
Autonomy	39 hours
Strap	Leather crocodile imitation
Movement functions	hour, minute, second, day, date, month, moon phases

The STB Collection

From Pita Barcelona -

Courtesy of Pita Barcelona

68 years is a long time!  And to help commemorate this milestone in his life, Aniceto Jimenez Pita will be producing a limited, numbered collection of 68 of the Carousel and Minimal collection.

Courtesy of Pita Barcelona

And because nothing beats "moving pictures" -

Blue Sapphire Verdict Double Tourbillon

From Hysek -

Courtesy of Hysek

Busy morning here in Santa Barbara as I get ready to leave for a week-long "field trip", so you're getting this straight from Hysek without commentary -

Verdict 46mm DOUBLE TOURBILLON WITH BLUE SAPPHIRE DIAL

Fine watchmaking’s latest highlights

The metallic sapphire dial was first unveiled by Hysek in 2003, but it’s still a relatively new feature in the world of haute horlogerie. This iridescent treatment, when applied to a sapphire crystal dial, will create a tint producing virtually any hue of highlights imaginable, resulting in a cast of subtle color variations for the movement it houses. By pushing the boundaries of this metallizing sapphire technique, Hysek expands its creative universe with the new Verdict Double Tourbillon with Blue Sapphire Dial.

AN UNPRECEDENTED DEVELOPMENT

Back in 2003, Hysek created a sensation with the X-Ray tourbillon, closely followed by the XX-Ray double tourbillon. These pioneering models opened up a unique path alongside traditional sapphire backs, offering a sapphire glass placed on the dial side, complete with a metallic color treatment. 

Twelve years later, the fruit of the manufacture’s ongoing research has emerged: the Verdict Double Tourbillon, featuring a blue sapphire dial. Hysek worked for two years on a new process, to give the dials a more pervasive color and add matching highlights to complement the dominant colors. The Verdict Double Tourbillon with its blue sapphire dial is the embodiment of this research, boasting a color range that is now richer and deeper than ever before.

DISTINCTLY ILLUMINATING

The choice of this particular timepiece to benefit from the new treatment was anything but random. On the dial side, the manufacture movement of the watch is revealed in its entirety. Apart from the two tourbillons, the whole upper side of the timepiece is enveloped by the new iridescent sapphire, gracing it with yellow, blue and orange highlights. Together, they enliven every detail of the manufacture’s caliber, carrying the light to the depths of the workings, the polished angles of each bridge, and along every line of the Rose des Vents pattern.

ABOUT THE VERDICT DOUBLE TOURBILLON

TWICE AS PRECISE AS A TRADITIONAL MOVEMENT

The 46 mm Verdict Double Tourbillon reflects the Hysek Manufacture’s specific knowhow, blending watchmaking and creative audacity. Designed, produced and assembled by Hysek’s master watchmakers, the double tourbillon has more than 331 parts. Independent from each other, both tourbillons are, however, joined together by a central differential, which distributes force evenly to each of the two balances. This mechanism allows regulation of the tourbillons’ speed, and hence the movement’s rate becomes the average of the rate of each tourbillon. In other words, the twin tourbillons double the accuracy of the caliber.

DOUBLE TOURBILLON, DOUBLE MICRO-ROTOR

To go with its double tourbillon, Hysek added to its movement a double micro-rotor in rose gold and platinum. Smaller than a standard rotor and coupled by a single ceramic ball-bearing, avoiding lubrication of the movement, Hysek’s emblematic mechanism actually maximizes the visibility of the movement while boosting its winding power.

With further attention to detail, Hysek has endowed the caliber with hand finishings similar to Poinçon de Genève, including a Rose des Vents pattern on the plate.

Following the inaugural and exclusive edition of eight pieces in 18k rose gold, the Verdict Double Tourbillon is now available in Grade 5 titanium. The sapphire crystal dial and its unpredictable shades offer a pleasing contrast to the interplay of polished and satin-brushed finishes on the case. Hysek’s final touch to complete the overall effect is an opening at one o’clock, providing an easy view of the date.

As for the first edition, just eight of these 46 mm Verdict Double Tourbillon watches are being made in Grade 5 titanium.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

MOVEMENT

The Hysek HW06 caliber has been designed, produced and assembled in-house.

The movement features the first-ever automatic double tourbillon:

o   Independent of each other, both tourbillons are coupled by a central differential, which distributes force evenly to each of the two balances.

o   This differential thus regulates the speed of each tourbillon.

o   The accuracy of the double tourbillon is doubled as a result of the movement’s rate being the average of the rate of each tourbillon.

The double micro-rotor is Hysek’s signature on its automatic calibers.

o   Hysek’s double micro-rotor is made of two small oscillating weights. The first one, in 22k rose gold, is placed on the dial side, while the second one, on the back of the movement, is crafted in platinum, a precious and heavy metal chosen for its increased winding potential.

o   Both micro-rotors are coupled by a single ceramic ball-bearing, avoiding lubrication thus improving long term performance.  

o   One of the key advantages of the double micro-rotor is esthetic. Indeed, it does not obstruct half of the movement, like standard rotors do, but does offer the chance to discover the movement's peerless fine finishing.

o   With an autonomy of 45 +/- two hours, the double tourbillon can be fully wound in less than three hours.

The date is displayed at one o’clock and can be adjusted by a push button positioned at two o’clock.

In its department dedicated solely to movement decoration, Hysek’s HW06 caliber is finished according to the highest haute horlogerie standards. Using a mix of traditional techniques and modern methods, Hysek’s craftsmen have given to this movement a contemporary look, combining the brand’s hallmark Rose des vents compass rose finish on the dial side with a more classical Côte de Genève decoration visible through the sapphire case back.

The HW06 is made of 331 components and 44 jewels.