The Transfer Window Has Opened

At Laurent Ferrier -

Courtesy of Laurent Ferrier

Word reached the North Shore headquarters of Henki Time that a new hand is at the helm of Laurent Ferrier. 

Florent Perrichon has been announced as the new Chief Executive Officer of the Geneva based brand.

Following previous stints with LVMH (most relevantly Tag Heuer), Mr. Perrichon has been a board member of Laurent Ferreier since 2013.

Now in fairness, it is more than a bit of a curious trail of management that precedes Mr. Perrichon assuming the top spot. And most of it paints a rather unfortunate picture of an antsy Board of Directors / owner-investor group. Prior to this recent shift, the power resided with one of the founders and major investors - Mr. François Servanin who had great success in the automotive world with among other things, Mercedes and Porsche dealerships in France.

He, in turn, took over from Vanessa Monestel, if I have the chronology right. What I am fairly sure of, is that this is now the fifth CEO since 2010:

Olivier Muller: 2010 - 2013?

Sylvère Demonsais: 2013 - 2013?

Vanessa Monestel: 2013/2014 - 2019

Francois Servanin: 2019 - 2025

Enter Mr. Perrichon.

We wish him good luck and God's Speed.

We wish him the very best of success.

The Classic Origin Green

From Laurent Ferrier -

Courtesy of Laurent Ferrier

Now I know that what you are about to read will probably trip you out, but the new Classic Origin Green is only available through an internet outlet that is not Hodinkee. Like I said, pretty trippy, huh?

Courtesy of Laurent Ferrier

Under the hood you'll find LF 116.01 calibre. Hours, minutes and small seconds.

Should you have the means, here are the pertinents -

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Water resistant to 30 m
"Ball-shaped" crown in grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 40 mm
Case thickness: 10.70 mm

Dial
Green gradient opaline dial with a slate grey hour circle and yellow numerals
Indexes: 18K white gold
Small seconds display at 6 o´clock

Hands & Indexes
Hours and minutes: “Assegai-Shaped” in 18K white gold
Seconds: baton-shape in white gold

Movement
Manual winding calibre LF116.01
Swiss lever escapement
Balance screw
Indications:
hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o´clock
Movement diameter 31.60 (14’’’).
Thickness: 4.35 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21’600/H)
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Number of components: 150
Number of jewels: 21

Strap
Honey brown Timberland leather 

with Alcantara lining
Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

Annual Calendar School Piece

From Laurent Ferrier -

Courtesy of Laurent Ferrier

Here are the pertinents -

LIMITED to 5 Pieces
Ecole Annual Calendar Vintage
LCF025.AC.J2B
TECHNICAL DETAILS

Movement:
• Manual winding calibre LF126.01.
• Swiss lever escapement and balance screw.
• Indications: Hours and Minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 6 o´clock. Power reserve area indicator on the back side. Annual calendar:
- Calendar central hand.
- Day-disc and Month-disc (Automatic correction for months with 30 or 31 days. One correction on March 1st)
• Semi-instantaneous calendar. Days and month semi-instantaneous apertures.
• Correctors: Crown for winding, time-setting, calendar central hand and months. Push button at 10 o´clock for days of the week.
• Correction forward / backward of the calendar on intermediate position.
• Movement diameter: 31.60 mm (14´´´).
• Thickness: 5.80 mm.
• Frequency: 3Hz (21´600 /H).
• Power reserve: 80 hours.
• Number of components: 235.
• Number of jewels: 23.

Case:
• stainless steel
• Size: 40 mm diameter
• Thickness: 10.10 mm or 12.80 mm including the sapphire crystal
• Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
• Water resistant to 30 meters
• “Ball-shaped” crown in stainless steel

Dial:
• Opaline yellow gold toned vintage inspired
• Vintage-inspired numerals painted in brown 1-30 and in red for 31
• Small second at 6 o´clock, with a circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed in the center
• Bevelled day and month apertures.

Hands:
• 18K/750 210Pd white gold.
• Hours and minutes: “Assegai-shaped”, ruthenium treated
• Seconds: baton-type with counterweight, ruthenium treated
• Date: painted in white

Strap:
• Honey alligator leather witch matching Alcantara lining.
• Pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.

A Galet Square Porcelain Limited Edition

From Laurent Ferrier -

Courtesy of Laurent Ferrier

Here are the pertinents, right from the source -


GALET SQUARE PORCELAIN LIMITED EDITION
MICRO-ROTOR, ESCAPEMENT WITH DOUBLE DIRECT IMPULSE ON THE BALANCE
OR ECHAPPEMENT NATUREL ACCORDING TO A.L. BREGUET

Movement: FBN calibre 229.01, automatic winding with pawl-fitted micro-rotor
− 72-Hour power reserve
− Micro-rotor: fixed between the main plate and the micro-rotor bridge
− Silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance
− Silent-block shock protection system for the micro-rotor
− Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
− Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31,60 mm
− Movement thickness: 4.35 mm
− Number of components: 186
− Number of jewels: 35
− Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

Case: in white gold, cushion-shaped
- Back bezel : numbered out of 10
- Case dimensions: 41x41 mm (diagonal: 45.35 mm)
- Water resistance: to 30 m
- Case thickness: 11.10 mm

Dial: White porcelain, anthracite nickel Breguet type numerals, 12 o’clock in scarlet red, gold circular minute dots for the minutes, four diamond-shape gold markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12, and smaller diamond-shape gold patterns for the tenths.

Hands: 18K/210Pd white gold with black ruthenium treatment, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes baton-shaped for the seconds

Straps: Hand-sewn brown alligator, full skin square scale with scarlet alcanthara lining, and a tan calf strap with scarlet alcantara lining
 
Buckle: Ardillon pin buckle

Arpal One for ONLY Watch

A wonderful collaboration to create a unique piece for the ONLY Watch auction coming up later this year in Monaco!

Courtesy of URWERK and Laurent Ferrier

The Arpal One is a collaboration between Laurent Ferrier and URWERK

Here are the details, straight from the source -

July 2017 – It’s neither a Laurent Ferrier watch nor an URWERK, yet the signatures of both firms appear on its back. The existence of this unexpected watch defies logic because it is the joint effort of two watchmaking companies that couldn’t be more different. Each bases its identity on the opposite ends of watchmaking’s stylistic spectrum. On one side, the expression of time-honoured traditions; on the other, an anarchic effort to overturn conventions. Laurent Ferrier and URWERK have created a piece of work that is unique, for only one-of-a-kind watches qualify to be sold at the Only Watch auction in aid of the battle against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

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Movement
Calibre:	Selfwinding UR5.03 governed by a double turbine
Jewels:	52
Frequency:	28,800v/h – 4Hz
Power reserve:	48 hours
Materials:	Satellite hours turned on Geneva crosses in beryllium bronze; Orbital structure in PEEK (Polyetheretherketone); Carrousel and triple baseplate in ARCAP.
Finishes:	Circular-grained baseplate, sandblasted satellites, brushed carrousel, chamfered screw slots.
Indications	Wandering hours, minutes. Numerals painted in SuperLuminova
Case
Materials:	Arpal+
Dimensions:	Width 40,9mm, length: 60,8mm, height: 20,7mm
Glass:	Sapphire crystal
Water resistance:	Pressure tested to 30m/3ATM
Strap:	Sand-coloured leather, hand stitched with matching thread

 

And Then There Were...

TWENTYFOUR!

Today the SIHH announced the addition of 8 new participants for the 2016 edition -

H. Moser & Cie, Hautlence, Christophe Claret, HYT, Laurent Ferrier, Kari Voutilainen, MB&F and Urwerk are all slated to join the roster and will be making up some of the space previously used by Ralph Lauren who are sitting this one out while they restructure.

It is indeed going to be interesting to see how this all plays out.  Not so long ago the feeling was that the SIHH event was all but dead, catering only to Richemont.  But now with new brands coming in, it will be interesting to see how it develops.  It further begs the question as to whether brands like H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence and the others will "double-down" and participate in BaselWorld as well.

So let's see what January has in store!