Showing posts with label Geneva Watch Days. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Geneva Watch Days. Show all posts

Friday, August 30, 2024

Summer Repeat - Yogi Berra on Brand Management

Repeat - Yogi Berra on Brand Management

I originally came out with this just over three years ago.  At that time I was in Malmo, Sweden for the launch of Kronaby.  After a fairly successful launch, followed by a strong BaselWorld 17, and  a BaselWorld 18 that was off the chain (the booth was jam-packed and I saw someone in front of the booth with with a can of grease and a crowbar trying to get more people in), shortly prior to BaselWorld 2019, word leaked out that Kronaby was, in fact, toast.  Now it's funny looking back, because at the time I was somehow thinking that maybe the folks at Kronaby (and let's say that's the four shot-callers and a few key employees that, in hindsight, never should have been anywhere near a watch brand), might be approaching things differently.  Shortly after launch, it began to become clear that, in fact, that was not the case.  Just prior to their first full-on BaselWorld (I'm talking about a week prior) the brain trust in the marketing department thought it made sense to cancel a large chunk of media appointments that had already been booked.  The result, a lot of press took that particular fuck-you at face value and not only didn't bother to re-schedule, but wrote Kronaby out of their collective consciousness.  Ironically, that BaselWorld found all four of the shot-callers hanging out in front of their booth, not unlike used car salesmen prowling the lot, looking for a possible mark.  Curious to relate, the next year was quite good, with people literally spilling out of the booth!  So what happened?  Well, a few things and some that parallel another fairly spectacular fall from grace, Klokers.  And if and when I am asked to deliver a Ted Talk I will endeavor to boil it down to ten minutes or so ; )


But for now, it seems like a good time to re-heat this one!

Yogi Berra on Brand Management



A late night (in Malmo) Face Time call came in waking me from a peaceful slumber.  Clearly I need to figure out some sort of "out of office" message for that when I am out of the country ; )

Worrying that it could be Wendy and there might be something important, I picked up.  At first, relief as it was not Wendy but a fairly senior fellow who works for a company in Switzerland that produces, markets and sells watches.  We had not spoken in 11 months and he was unaware that I had moved to Salem, MA and was no longer in California (and clearly he did not know I was in Sweden).  This turned into the semi-annual call where X (no names, so don't ask!) was on his latest talent hunt.  It generally starts out with some pleasantries:

X:  "How's Mary?"
Me: "Who is Mary?"
X:  "Your wife!"
Me:  "Well, that's news to me as I've been calling her Wendy since 1992."

So let's just say that X's memory is not razor-sharp, and therefore it is safe to say, he's not so good on every detail ; )

X:  "We're looking for a brand manager for  (no names).  Any suggestions?"
Me:  "What happened to (no names)?  You were so sure they were perfect."
X:  "Well, it turns out that (no names) was not a good manager."

And then X split open like an over-stuffed piñata.  And out it flowed.  X shared all of the problems and I listened.  And to quote that other great commentator on the luxury industry, Yogi Berra:
It's like deja-vu, all over again.
Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/y/yogi_berra.html
"It's like de-javu, all over again."

You see, X and I have a very similar conversation approximately every 18 months.  It is not always exactly the same date, but generally tends to fall between the close of the year and JCK.
And every 18 months I tend to ask the same thing:
"Why do you keep hiring the same type of person and expect different results?"
Long time readers will know that Moneyball is my default reference, and I even gave a copy to X as a gift a year or so back.  I don't think he ever read it and it's pages were probably used to start a fire in his swanky ski chalet.  So I thought I would dumb it down in the hopes that he might get it this time.  So without further delay, here's some hiring advice from Yogi Berra himself -

"We made too many wrong mistakes"
As an English teacher, I realize that this sentence makes no sense.  But look a little deeper and you will find a kernel of wisdom.  Essentially it reminds me of the anxiety and fear of looking foolish that compels recruiters, hiring managers and even CEOs to go with the same type of candidate again and again.  Simply put, the belief when hiring a brand manager in North America (I honestly can't speak to the other countries) is that they (usually he) must be a sales person.  Now, in and of itself this is good because, you know, you need to sell watches.  But there are several other elements that oftentimes get overlooked:
Management/coaching/mentoring.  Sales is, by its very nature, a fairly solitary pursuit.  While sales people get managed, it is very seldom that they have been called upon to manage the diverse group of personalities that typically make up a brand's office.
PR/Marketing/Media.  Again, frequently a lack of understanding of ROI vs. money actually spent.  If brand managers had a better understanding of this, then certain magazines and "influencers" would probably stop attending BaselWorld as the gravy train would clearly be shut down.  In addition, certain brands would not be the watch world equivalent of "Christmas/Easters" (i.e. people who only go to church two days a year).  Some of us call them Basel/Vegas.  You will only hear from these folks just prior to these two events.
Customer Service. Again, dealing with angry customers is an alien experience for a lot of these folks.

There are some people who, if they don't already know, you can't tell 'em.
Simply put, X, and plenty of other shot-callers in the industry just can't bring themselves to believe that there might be a different way to approach things.  As a friend of mine who works behind the scenes as a very in-demand consultant in Switzerland put it -
"these guys at Richemont, Swatch, and a lot of the others?  They're like trains running on the tracks.  They only move one way, and that's because the 'station master' (i.e. senior management) is following the same schedule they always have.  Which works great in normal times, but quite differently in a heavy snow storm".  And that snow storm started a few years ago and is still screwing up traffic ; )  Perhaps it is time to invest in an alternative "vehicle"?
Now X will probably go out and hire another big group loyalist who is expecting a base salary of 6 figures, business class travel, and a very deep marketing budget.

X:  "But they worked for Cartier for 20 years!"
Me: "So they are still with Cartier?"
X:  "No, but they were there from 92 - 2012."
Me: "So, essentially you are telling me that they have not worked for 4 - 5 years?"

At the risk of sounding mean, there is usually a reason why these people are available.

Nobody goes there anymore.  It's too crowded.
At the risk of sounding crass, X has a boner for big name, fancy retail partners.  The logic being that If you are in "so and so's" store in Las Vegas, LA or New York you will have made it big.  Sounds good, but the realities are something very, very different.  Those stores will most likely be MEMO. (Our old friend of the watch retailer meaning the brand provides the watches and waits for them to sell, and then maybe the retail partner will pay for them.  Then again, maybe not.)  So essentially the brand is acting as the bank, as well as the "supplier".  And if you think that is the only expense, consider the travel to visit the retail partner to do the safe count, the money that will be demanded for co-op advertising, the POS collateral materials that the retailer needs.  In other words, a shit-ton of money that the brand will be putting out there without any confirmed sale in sight.  And once the brand is in the store, they are fighting for case space, because frankly there are just too many brands.

So my strong advice for X after a few hours of sleep is this -
If you come to a fork in the road, take it. 
This is a perfect opportunity to consider a different approach.  There are plenty of talented people (some of them are even female) who despite not being solo artist salesmen might have exactly the talents and more importantly, the temperament to steer the Good Ship Watch Brand through the stormy seas of North America.

Or, you can go ahead do the same thing again, hoping for a different outcome -
Even Napoleon had his Watergate.

Thursday, August 29, 2024

Struggling to Understand - the Favre Leuba Zombie

Now before we go any further, I will admit a few failings that I have as a member of Watch Town's Fourth and Fifth Estates. When I first launched The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit, I had a desperate need to be liked by brand owners, to fawn and praise, often without any real belief in what they were churning out. 

I was there to cover Favre Leuba 2.0 when Thomas Morf puffed up the brand with what turned out to be some unrealistic expectations as to what Favre Leuba could (or in the end would) be.

So now the curtain has raised, not insignificant amounts of money have been channeled to PR firms and media outlets to promote "Favre Leuba III - The Revenge of the Value Proposition!" Oh, and apparently it is also now, among other things, a heritage brand... and in all honesty, gentle reader? I am now left in a quandery as to just what Favre Leuba is now.

Courtesy of Favre Leuba

In fairness, the new pieces look nice enough. They utilize movements from La Joux-Perret. While they make a very respectable movement, I don't know if that alone correlates to the somewhat ambitious prices that are being proposed.

So who has their hands on the tiller of the good ship Favre Leuba? One Patrik Hoffmann. I have read an interview published in Monochrome, and well... let's just leave it at that. 

In a secondary splashy video interview with Revolution, it would seem that the basis of Favre Leuba is a "value proposition"  (I thought that Hodinkee had copyrighted that phrase), which I heard so frequently I ran out of fingers to count on. I found this descriptor somewhat curious as (if the Monochrome interview is to be taken as gospel) a tourbillon is planned for next year... "A value proposition Tourbillon..."

The price points (if I am being brutally honest) are not what I would call value proposition based. I suspect the folks at The Solist and Joma Shop have already raised their collective antenna. 

So ultimately the market will inform us as to what it will bear. But the sad truth is that Watch Town is currently over populated. There are already a shit-ton of brands, and those with the history (Longines) will likely come out ahead. 

But let's see how this develops. 

Wednesday, August 14, 2024

Summer Leftovers - The Trolley Problem

 A Summer Repeat - The Trolley Problem

This originally ran (I think) in 2019 or so in the "Blog Formerly known as Tempus Fugit. With the recent reality check over at the Good Ship Hodinkee, the not-so-sunny news about Bremont's apparent lack of success with their succession plans -  https://www.watchpro.com/bremonts-british-manufacturing-mission-increases-losses-to-14-million/ 

And Watch Town begrudgingly dragging their collective backsides to work following the Summer Watch Maker's Holiday, it seemed like a good time to reheat this one. 

So once again, The Trolley Problem - 


So I had an interesting phone call with a brand owner this morning.  He first thanked me (I think sincerely) for the recent post about the pervasiveness of payola in the watch media.  He then asked (I also think sincerely) "Do you enjoy making enemies?"

Well, I don't expect my phone to ring with a job offer from one of the big-dog watch media outlets anytime soon, so in for a penny - in for a pound.  Here gentle reader, is a repeat on one of my favorites -

The Trolley Problem

The Trolley Problem - As it applies to watch journalism.

Courtesy of Wikipedia
It would seem that the words watch and journalist are becoming more and more incompatible in the same sentence.  Brands work feverishly to sanitize who will receive their release and then monitor closely to watch the "Barium Meal" that is the press release that they sent out to see which "news" outlets will clap and bark like seals, and which ones will experience gastro-intestinal distress. For the watch journos out there who are members of the "clean plate" club and can swallow it all down and reveal the picture of Mickey Mouse etched across the top of their dish? They get a gold star, guaranteed access, paid travel and gifts of various description and best of all?  Advertising revenue!  For those that spend the time after disseminating a particularly foul smelling press missive with a visit from "Cardinal Chunder"?  
Courtesy of the BBC
Well, let's just say they will not find themselves on this year's Christmas list.

But let's get back to the topic at hand - the Trolley Problem.  The trolley problem is (at this point) an age old conundrum conceived to help inform and instruct on moral and/or ethical behavior.  If Wikipedia is anything to go by, it might have first been utilized by Frank Chapman Sharp at the University of Wisconsin to help instruct on moral or ethical thought.  Essentially, imagine that there is a runaway trolley (or streetcar, or tram if you are more familiar, or even a train).  Further down the line there are five people, very much alive, but immobilized and unable to move, and are directly in the path of the trolley, streetcar, tram, or what the hell, even a train... well you get the idea. BUT WAIT! Hallelujah! There is a switch lever, and you are standing right by it! Hooray! You can save the day!  

But wait -

If you choose to divert the trolley, tram, street car, train (you get the idea) to this other line, it will then head down the track and run right over your infant son who you left in his stroller on what you believed to be a disused stretch of track while you went to grab a six pack at the off-license.  Yes, this is why your partner does not trust you alone with the kids ; )

So now you have a real dilemma - do you act, and by acting sacrifice your son for the greater good of the 5 strangers?  Or do you do nothing?  I mean, it's not like you put those five people there on the tracks in the first place, you just wanted to get some cold ones.

In the "normal" world, and I use the word normal cautiously because we are living in very abnormal times, but in the normal world, if you report on fact, or offer opinion (not slander, defamation, or falsehoods) but fair and balanced opinion, you should not be afraid to do so.  But we are not living in normal times.  And curious to relate?  The watch and luxury business has been trying to run a somewhat authoritarian press bureau for some time.  Step out of line, you are left in the cold.  And in all fairness, there are a fair number of people out there trying to make a living, and not necessarily willing to throw that switch lever and watch their child (or in this case, their media outlet) get mowed down.

Recently with the triumph in court of Vortic, there was a real opportunity for several owners of large press outlets to do the right thing and actually speak up. These are outlets with deep staffs, and a fairly secure revenue stream (at least by comparison to others), with truly large readerships. They all chose to remain silent publicly.  And this is a shame. Because in trying to stay on the "good list", they collectively took a shit on a very deserving, very sincere brand that has struggled nobly forward for many years, and frankly? Deserved a hell of a lot better than what they got. And what I find so frustrating in all of this is that I KNOW these media outlet owners. They were once in the very same spot as the brand owner. They were not always so "mighty", and I have shared more than one dreadful lunch at BaselWorld with several of them over plates of over-aged open faced liverwurst sandwiches and tap water trying to conceive of an alliance of our then much smaller blogs and outlets to come together so that we all might make some money.  
Editors note - the alliance never really fully materialized.  2 of the outlets became big time, one of the bloggers now runs a magazine, I chose to remain a solo act.

And on one level I get it - we all have to eat, we all have bills to pay, and fortunately for me, I am not dependent upon Tempus Fugit, and therefore not dependent on brands writing me checks.

But on the other hand, whether we all admit it or not, nobody needs watches. 

More particularly?

Nobody really needs watch magazines or blogs. We like them, we enjoy them. But the outlets should also all be willing to offer honest opinions without fear of losing advertising revenue.

Because ultimately? The watch press should be much more than simply an extension of a brand's pr and marketing office. Because when the line is as blurred as it currently is? It is no longer actual reporting. It is just candy floss.

Sunday, August 27, 2023

Summer Repeat - Yogi Berra on Brand Management

Editor's note -

This post originally appeared in 2017. As Geneva Watch Days gets ready for another "what the hell did I spend thousands of dollars to travel to Geneva to see what I already saw at Watches & Wonders" event, the word around the campfire is that several lofty heads are about to roll in the form of CEOs and senior managers who apparently are now surplus to the requirements of the service. And right on schedule, another unscheduled call from a brand manager seeking feedback this past week. At least this time the call was during normal "daylight" hours ; )


For better or worse, what was true then remains the same today. The ways in which watch brands seek to fill leadership and management positions is antiquated. When and if an appeal to reason and rational thought will prevail remains to be seen.

Repeat - Yogi Berra on Brand Management

I originally came out with this just over three years ago.  At that time I was in Malmo, Sweden for the launch of Kronaby.  After a fairly successful launch, followed by a strong BaselWorld 17, and  a BaselWorld 18 that was off the chain (the booth was jam-packed and I saw someone in front of the booth with with a can of grease and a crowbar trying to get more people in), shortly prior to BaselWorld 2019, word leaked out that Kronaby was, in fact, toast.  Now it's funny looking back, because at the time I was somehow thinking that maybe the folks at Kronaby (and let's say that's the four shot-callers and a few key employees that, in hindsight, never should have been anywhere near a watch brand), might be approaching things differently.  Shortly after launch, it began to become clear that, in fact, that was not the case.  Just prior to their first full-on BaselWorld (I'm talking about a week prior) the brain trust in the marketing department thought it made sense to cancel a large chunk of media appointments that had already been booked.  The result, a lot of press took that particular fuck-you at face value and not only didn't bother to re-schedule, but wrote Kronaby out of their collective consciousness.  Ironically, that BaselWorld found all four of the shot-callers hanging out in front of their booth, not unlike used car salesmen prowling the lot, looking for a possible mark.  Curious to relate, the next year was quite good, with people literally spilling out of the booth!  So what happened?  Well, a few things and some that parallel another fairly spectacular fall from grace, Klokers.  And if and when I am asked to deliver a Ted Talk I will endeavor to boil it down to ten minutes or so ; )


But for now, it seems like a good time to re-heat this one!

Yogi Berra on Brand Management



A late night (in Malmo) Face Time call came in waking me from a peaceful slumber.  Clearly I need to figure out some sort of "out of office" message for that when I am out of the country ; )

Worrying that it could be Wendy and there might be something important, I picked up.  At first, relief as it was not Wendy but a fairly senior fellow who works for a company in Switzerland that produces, markets and sells watches.  We had not spoken in 11 months and he was unaware that I had moved to Salem, MA and was no longer in California (and clearly he did not know I was in Sweden).  This turned into the semi-annual call where X (no names, so don't ask!) was on his latest talent hunt.  It generally starts out with some pleasantries:

X:  "How's Mary?"
Me: "Who is Mary?"
X:  "Your wife!"
Me:  "Well, that's news to me as I've been calling her Wendy since 1992."

So let's just say that X's memory is not razor-sharp, and therefore it is safe to say, he's not so good on every detail ; )

X:  "We're looking for a brand manager for  (no names).  Any suggestions?"
Me:  "What happened to (no names)?  You were so sure they were perfect."
X:  "Well, it turns out that (no names) was not a good manager."

And then X split open like an over-stuffed piñata.  And out it flowed.  X shared all of the problems and I listened.  And to quote that other great commentator on the luxury industry, Yogi Berra:

It's like deja-vu, all over again.
Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/y/yogi_berra.html
"It's like de-javu, all over again."

You see, X and I have a very similar conversation approximately every 18 months.  It is not always exactly the same date, but generally tends to fall between the close of the year and JCK.
And every 18 months I tend to ask the same thing:
"Why do you keep hiring the same type of person and expect different results?"
Long time readers will know that Moneyball is my default reference, and I even gave a copy to X as a gift a year or so back.  I don't think he ever read it and it's pages were probably used to start a fire in his swanky ski chalet.  So I thought I would dumb it down in the hopes that he might get it this time.  So without further delay, here's some hiring advice from Yogi Berra himself -

"We made too many wrong mistakes"
As an English teacher, I realize that this sentence makes no sense.  But look a little deeper and you will find a kernel of wisdom.  Essentially it reminds me of the anxiety and fear of looking foolish that compels recruiters, hiring managers and even CEOs to go with the same type of candidate again and again.  Simply put, the belief when hiring a brand manager in North America (I honestly can't speak to the other countries) is that they (usually he) must be a sales person.  Now, in and of itself this is good because, you know, you need to sell watches.  But there are several other elements that oftentimes get overlooked:
Management/coaching/mentoring.  Sales is, by its very nature, a fairly solitary pursuit.  While sales people get managed, it is very seldom that they have been called upon to manage the diverse group of personalities that typically make up a brand's office.
PR/Marketing/Media.  Again, frequently a lack of understanding of ROI vs. money actually spent.  If brand managers had a better understanding of this, then certain magazines and "influencers" would probably stop attending BaselWorld as the gravy train would clearly be shut down.  In addition, certain brands would not be the watch world equivalent of "Christmas/Easters" (i.e. people who only go to church two days a year).  Some of us call them Basel/Vegas.  You will only hear from these folks just prior to these two events.
Customer Service. Again, dealing with angry customers is an alien experience for a lot of these folks.

There are some people who, if they don't already know, you can't tell 'em.
Simply put, X, and plenty of other shot-callers in the industry just can't bring themselves to believe that there might be a different way to approach things.  As a friend of mine who works behind the scenes as a very in-demand consultant in Switzerland put it -
"these guys at Richemont, Swatch, and a lot of the others?  They're like trains running on the tracks.  They only move one way, and that's because the 'station master' (i.e. senior management) is following the same schedule they always have.  Which works great in normal times, but quite differently in a heavy snow storm".  And that snow storm started a few years ago and is still screwing up traffic ; )  Perhaps it is time to invest in an alternative "vehicle"?
Now X will probably go out and hire another big group loyalist who is expecting a base salary of 6 figures, business class travel, and a very deep marketing budget.

X:  "But they worked for Cartier for 20 years!"
Me: "So they are still with Cartier?"
X:  "No, but they were there from 92 - 2012."
Me: "So, essentially you are telling me that they have not worked for 4 - 5 years?"

At the risk of sounding mean, there is usually a reason why these people are available.

Nobody goes there anymore.  It's too crowded.
At the risk of sounding crass, X has a boner for big name, fancy retail partners.  The logic being that If you are in "so and so's" store in Las Vegas, LA or New York you will have made it big.  Sounds good, but the realities are something very, very different.  Those stores will most likely be MEMO. (Our old friend of the watch retailer meaning the brand provides the watches and waits for them to sell, and then maybe the retail partner will pay for them.  Then again, maybe not.)  So essentially the brand is acting as the bank, as well as the "supplier".  And if you think that is the only expense, consider the travel to visit the retail partner to do the safe count, the money that will be demanded for co-op advertising, the POS collateral materials that the retailer needs.  In other words, a shit-ton of money that the brand will be putting out there without any confirmed sale in sight.  And once the brand is in the store, they are fighting for case space, because frankly there are just too many brands.

So my strong advice for X after a few hours of sleep is this -
If you come to a fork in the road, take it. 
This is a perfect opportunity to consider a different approach.  There are plenty of talented people (some of them are even female) who despite not being solo artist salesmen might have exactly the talents and more importantly, the temperament to steer the Good Ship Watch Brand through the stormy seas of North America.

Or, you can go ahead do the same thing again, hoping for a different outcome -
Even Napoleon had his Watergate.

Tuesday, August 31, 2021

The UR-100 Electrum

From Urwerk -

Courtesy of Urwerk
Limited to 25 pieces.

Courtesy of Urwerk
Here are the pertinents -


UR-100 Electrum – 25-piece limited edition

 

Technical specifications

Movement

 

 

Calibre 

UR 12.01 with automatic winding system regulated by the Winfänger system with propeller and planetary gear system 



Jewels:



39



Frequency:



28 800 vph - 4Hz



Power reserve:



48 hours



Materials: 



Aluminium satellite hours driven into titanium Geneva crosses. Titanium carrousel. Triple baseplate in ARCAP 



Finishes:  



Circular graining, sandblasting, beadblasting, circular satin-finish 

Chamfered screw heads 



Super-LumiNova®-painted hours and minutes markings 

Indications:

Satellite hours; minutes; Earth’s rotation on its axis at the Equator in 20 minutes; Earth’s revolution around the sun in 20 minutes 

 

 

 

Case

 

 

Materials 

Satin-brushed 18K 2N Electrum yellow gold 


Dimensions:


Width: 41 mm; length: 49.7 mm; thickness: 14 mm


Glass:


Transparent sapphire crystal


Water resistance


Pressure tested to 3ATM (30m- 3 bar)


Strap


Leather

 

 

 

Price 

CHF 62,000.00 (Swiss francs / tax not included)

The AIKON Automatic Chronograph Sprint

From Maurice Lacroix -
Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
Here are the pertinents -

Case

CASE DIAMETER -
44mm

CASE MATERIAL -
Black DLC Stainless steel

WATER RESISTANCE -
Water resistance to 20 ATM

Dial

Embossed and sunray-brushed gun dial, black snailing and black opaline counters (12 o'clock + 6 o'clock) with light blue prints.
Light blue snailing counter (9 o'clock) with white prints.
Polished black plated M-logo.

Strap

STRAP MATERIAL -
Blue rubber

EASY STRAP EXCHANGE -
Yes

BUCKLE -
Sandblasted black DLC pin buckle

Movement
MOVEMENT
Automatic ML112

FUNCTIONS
Central hours and minutes.
Small second at 9 o'clock.
Chronograph second indicated by central hand.
30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o'clock.
12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o'clock.
Day and date at 3 o'clock.

DECORATIONS
Circular-graining.
Vertical Côtes de Genève on bridges and rotor.

Monday, August 30, 2021

The Antarctique Rattrapante

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek
Limited to 77 pieces.  

Here are the pertinents -

FUNCTIONS
- Split-second monopusher chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds
- Chronograph's minutes at 4:30
- Small seconds at 7:30
- Split-second pusher at 10:30


MOVEMENT
- Calibre SXH6: haute horlogerie automatic power-horse movement with a split-second monopusher chronograph module
- Power reserve: 60 hours
- Frequency: 4 Hz - 28’800 VpH
- Variable inertia balance wheel
- Two column wheels, chronograph horizontal
clutch, patent-pending split-second clamp
- 49 jewels, 292 components
- Recycled 5N rose gold rotor with Czapek logo
- Diameter: 34mm


FINISH
- Finely shotblasted bridges with hand-polished chamfers
- Linear satin-finished chronograph levers with hand-polished chamfers
- Circular satin-finished wheels
- Black-polished screws, studs and column
wheels


CASE
- 42.5mm stainless-steel case
- Height (with glass-box): 15.3mm
- Perceived height (bezel to case-back): 10.5mm - Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective
treatment
- Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side 
- Water resistance: 120m


BRACELET
- Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive "Easy Release" system
- Optional leather or rubber strap


DIAL
- Open-worked split-second chronograph on the dial side (world première)
- Sword hours and minutes hands with SuperLuminova treatment
- Split-second hand with red tip
- Diamond-chamfered rhodium-plated minutes ring and counters

Suggested retail is - $51’900 USD 

Tuesday, September 8, 2020

Reformation

News emerged yesterday that the "twin-tower" concept of bundling Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin has worked about as much magic as the same idea with Eterna and Corum, or the original "value pack" of Ralph Sampson and Akeem (now Hakeem) Olajuwon with the Houston Rockets. In fairness to the shot callers, COVID-19 was not exactly something that anyone could forecast during the budgeting process, but I also think it is fair to say that the leadership team must surely be aware that neither brand has been exactly "robust" over recent years, and if they were being honest with themselves (and their bosses - i.e. Kering brass) they would have reached this conclusion early last year and started making more gentle adjustments to address the already increasingly stark realities.  

This is really a shame, and with some creative thinking a few years ago, alternative revenue streams could have been explored. Remember back when ETA was hamstrung?  Movements were hard to come by?  Guess what both brands make?  On another topic, micro brands are actually not only surviving right now, they appear to be flourishing to some degree. Guess what both GP and UN could have capitalized on?  Upscale white label. Yes, that would have taken some alternative thinking, and it wouldn't have replaced the very real lost business that is currently being felt, but it could have lessened the sting.  

Now it is not lost on this guy that these are two of the brands who felt that throwing a lot of money at a somewhat star-crossed event at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic was a good use of corporate monies. In fairness, we won't know how successful the Geneva circle-jerk was for a few more months at the earliest, but rest assured that event planners posing as media outlets will keep circling the carcasses of watch brands until they have picked the bones clean.

Girard-Perregaux continues to struggle with the same identity crisis it always has. If I am understanding their newest - newest - newest strategy, it's to go even further upmarket. So far (and I am not privy to GP's sales figures) I don't get the resounding impression that this strategy has finally discovered the elusive GP customer, but then again I could be wrong.

I also find it amusing that the only media that is currently covering the shedding of 100 staff members (reportedly 25% of the total workforce) are fashion and HR outlets -

https://in.fashionnetwork.com/news/Kering-swiss-watch-brands-cut-staff-by-25-after-pandemic-hits-sales,1241344.html

I guess if my fellow scribes covering watches in the 4th and 5th Estates ignore this rather dramatic development, it didn't really happen, right? Needless to say, marketing and all that comes with it (media trips, nice hotels and tasty meals) will be one of the very last departments chopped, so I guess the never ending goody bag is hard to pass up, and something that some folks don't want to risk missing out on.  

To be clear, COVID-19 is nobody's fault and is certainly nothing they covered in most MBA courses. But there have been other shifts before this - anyone remember the Quartz Crisis?  How about 2008 - 2009/2010?  The brands that not only survive, but emerge from these unforeseen obstacles without too much damage always seem to be the same ones.  And not all of them are high priced or "haute".  

I can't really say much about Ulysse Nardin, because if I am completely honest, it is a brand that I have never really understood. Girard-Perregaux is one of those brands that I truly love, would love to own one of their watches, and am always curious what they are up to. But I have to accept certain realities - I am a social worker/teacher.  Yes, I could max out a credit card to own one of their pieces, but I have to punch my weight and live in the real world. I am, at the heart of it, not part of GP's decided demographic.  But like me, brands have to realize and appreciate when their own decided demographic has not fully jumped on board with them.

Tuesday, August 25, 2020

When Sturgis Comes To Watch Town

So, despite an abundance of science, informed advice, and a growing rate of COVID-19 infections in Europe, the big swinging dicks organizing Geneva Watch Days still think it's a swell idea to get a bunch of people all together. I mean, if the press releases are anything to go by, this will be a show so cool, it might just go viral!

Now while I don't suspect that the watch cognoscenti will be loitering around strip bars wearing leather chaps, Harley Davidson T-shirts and sporting tattoos proclaiming such heart-felt sentiments as:

Born To Lose 
or
Mama Didn't Love Me

the organizers of this event are well on the way to promoting a microcosm of Sturgis in Watch Town. 
Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb
Gentle reader, this or any show or gathering at this moment in time is a profoundly BAD IDEA.  

A friend of mine who tends to lean Libertarian in his political views feels that this is a case of personal freedoms and personal choices.  And that might well be true. But when the health and well-being of so many people can be impacted, I sincerely wish these titans of Watch Town would have exercised a bit more restraint and taken a pass for the year. Now it does not help that some of the chuckleheads who run shadow event and promotion services out of their "media" shops are financially invested in playing pandemic roulette with the organizers.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again - if a brand owner/manager wants to book a trip to Crazy Town?  That's his or her choice.  They shouldn't force their staff, press and customers to go along for the ride.

Thursday, August 13, 2020

EPHJ Trade Show 2020 Cancelled

Yes sports fans, the other-other shoe has dropped and today the EPHJ announced that their event was cancelled owing to the continued ban on gatherings of more than 1,000 people.

Oh, and just in case you thought that they were going to stick it to the companies who had stuck with them and showed faith?  I encourage you to read this excerpt from their announcement:


Following the Swiss Federal Council’s decision to extend the ban on events with more than 1,000 people to 1 October, we have had to cancel the 2020 EPHJ trade show, which was scheduled to run from 15 to 18 September.
In light of the response from many exhibitors, the EPHJ Trade Show 2020 organisers pulled out all the stops to make the trade fair happen, having already rescheduled from June to September. Unfortunately, the Federal Council decision does not distinguish between different kinds of event and makes no allowance for the proposed health and safety measures.
“We have to honour the decision of the Swiss Federal Council,,” announced Alexandre Catton, Director of the EPHJ Trade Show. “Our thoughts go out to all those companies in the high-precision sector who rely on having this platform and were looking forward to presenting their findings and innovations at the Trade Show. We wanted to make a proactive contribution to the much-needed economic recovery. Unfortunately the virus had other ideas. We look forward to seeing everyone on 8 to 11 June at the 2021 Trade Show.”
We had already contacted exhibitors to explain that anyone registered for the 2020 trade fair will have the option of claiming a refund of the 2020 registration fee or carrying their registration over to the 2021 show.
Now I am assuming that this means a full refund and not a BaselWorld style: "let me sell you this nickel for a dime!"
And as for the big swinging dicks anxious to share their "savoir faire" (and God knows what cooties) in Geneva in a little less than two weeks' time -
Well, hey, health and safety are for little candy-assed brands, and punk-assed wanna' be influencers!
Make your choices my fellow members of the 4th and 5th Estate, I'm sitting this one out ; )

Monday, August 10, 2020

Geneva Watch Days - Denial Over Common Sense

So with the end of the Swiss Watchmaker's holidays a slew of invitations and reminders found their way into the Tempus Fugit mailbox this AM bubbling with excitement about the upcoming Geneva Watch Days.  And I was reminded, yet again, that apparently in Watch Town, it is still all about perception.  Who can have the most celebrity partners?  Who has the most talented footballers, or the fastest F1 drivers?  Who laughs at fear and tweaks the nose of danger?  And in this instance?  Who does not have the basic common sense that we all were born with?

Now if you think I am being unreasonable, let's review what attending this potential super-spreader will entail for anyone outside of France, Italy, Germany or Switzerland. And keep in mind, Hercules himself managed 12 labors, so I guess the folks choosing to attend are getting off a little bit easier, they only have 10 -

1. Get on an airplane.

2. Get in a taxi or Uber or shuttle 

3.  Check into a hotel

4.  Hop into more public/shared transportation 

5.  Eat in restaurants

6.  Attend a "welcome" cocktail

7.  Attend a group dinner

8.  Attend a group party 

9.  Attend one or two private dinners

10.  Visit at least 16 brands (maybe more)

Now even those hailing from the Cantons will still have to face 9 out of these 10 challenges.  


Now let's consider some other realities -

Travel into Switzerland from North, Central and South America in most instances does not seem likely until September or October at the earliest, and even that is starting to look more and more doubtful as COVID-19 has become the latest participant in Urban Flight and is now embracing the heartland of the US. Some other interesting realities -

Infection rates are trending up in several European countries, and I realize that here in the US we are the big winners in the COVID-19 sweepstakes as we just passed 5 million cases, but the point here is that COVID-19 is clearly not yet under control.

Listen, I love going to watch shows. I like seeing old friends, and sparring with brand owners who think I'm full of shit. It's fun! But I would ask any brand to really consider this, it is one thing if the CEO or owner wants to put themselves in a giant Petri dish and go to Crazy Town. That's a solo trip and they are taking the risk themselves. It is something completely different when their staff are required to potentially put themselves at risk. As far as the press and clients are concerned, I suppose that in fairness that comes down to taking personal responsibility. This guy is staying put on the North Shore for the foreseeable ; )


We all want COVID-19 to be in the rearview mirror. We all want to return to normal. But what COVID-19 and the world's handling of it have laid bare, is that we are probably unlikely to ever be fully back to the way things were. 


The one constant in life is change, and it really doesn't matter whether we like it or not, believe in science or not, vote liberal or conservative, prefer independent watch brands to big groups. We are here, now. And no amount of denial is going to change that.