Friday, January 31, 2025

Visceral Memories with the Mühle Glashutte Sportivo Diver

I am over a week into my time with Mühle Glashutte's Sportivo Travel GMT.


It's interesting how something brand new can hit you like a 2 x 4 and shake loose a memory strictly through visceral means. Back in October I was among the sea of humanity wandering around the Worn and Wound show in NYC. I had made a special point of saying hi to the guys from Duber Time (North American representatives for Mühle Glashutte), and that was the first time I clapped eyes on the Sportivo Travel GMT. I was instantly drawn to it.

Folks who know me will point out my love of color. Typically it is a bit more pronounced, but the Sportivo gives just the right balance, dare I say - nuance! The bright blue wonderfully accentuates the black and white of this GMT sport watch - but not in a remotely gaudy way.

It wasn't until it arrived last week and I put it on my wrist that I recognized the trigger -

Courtesy of https://watchcharts.com/

This is the Calypso Diver from Swatch. I picked mine up at May Company (if memory serves) in late August of 1985. More on my love affair with  that wonderful time machine can be found 

I have a few more days with the Sportivo Travle GMT, and will be posting the full rundown on Sunday - stay tuned!














Wednesday, January 29, 2025

Vulcain And The Presidents - Book 2

Very excited to share the news with this shamelessly self-promoting plug!


The new version of the real history of the Vulcain Cricket and the US Presidents who owned one is actually a practically new book. If I had thought the first 20 years of putting the first book was a project, the last 3 years has been particularly grueling ; )

New photos, new historical tidbits, over 100 pages, and in hard cover. 

IMPORTANT - this is not a coffee table book. This is meant to be read, not displayed!

Pre-orders will start shortly, once the proof is back from the printer. Pricing will be as aggressive as I can make it, but please bear in mind that I am bearing all of the production costs ; )

Ordering will be through the Oberlin Watch Company website.

Stay tuned!

Monday, January 27, 2025

The Tundra

NOTE - James Henderson is the North American Representative for Ollech & Wajs

From Ollech & Wajs -

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

This is the latest offering from OW Zurich. A brand new take on a historic model from OW's past. This newest iteration has a wonderful green dial, and like its most recent predecessor has Soprod's Newton Precision P092 in a COSC (Certified Chronometer) version.

Priced at CHF 1,956

Here are the pertinents -

TECHNICAL SPECS

Reference
OW 8001 TUNDRA

Year
2025

Dimensions
39.5 mm X 12.7 mm

Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel tonneau style, screwed bottom, screwed crown, fixed steel bezel; made in the Swiss Jura

Bezel
Fixed bezel with a laster etched markers at 1-minute and 5-minute intervals

Glass
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment

Dial
Double-lacquered ‘Tundra Green fumé’ dial; baton hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®, with date window at 6 o’clock

Water resistance
300m/ 30atm

Movement
Automatic, COSC-certified, bespoke OW Soprod Newton Precision P092; date-only calendar, with semi instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown; stop seconds; 4Hz 28,800 vibrations perhour; 23 jewels; 44-hour power reserve. The Soprod Newton P092 movement is also independently tested for dependability and durability at the internationally renowned Laboratoire Dubois in Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and has additionally been awarded a Chronofiable® certification.

Average Accuracy
+/-  in accordance with CSOS tolerances

Bracelet
Integrated brushed oyster-style bracelet, engineered for comfort and stability and extreme durability. The bracelet is finished with sturdy milled, engraved clasp, extendable up to 22 mm, and a double pusher release system for extra security against accidental opening.

Origin
Handmade in the Swiss Jura



Saturday, January 25, 2025

Doing Good - Bamford London

This just flashed across my Instagram and thought it was worth sharing -

Courtesy of Bamford London

Although Wendy and I met in Japan and currently live in Massachusetts, I think its safe to say that we felt very much at home during our 16 years in California. 

What we came to learn was that although in many ways an idyllic place, California is also a very dry place. And it takes just a small, almost imperceptible spark, and fire will erupt. On more than one occasion we had a bag packed, and the cat carriers ready in case evacuation orders came.

I share this to try and help people understand how quickly disaster can strike, and I hope to underscore that natural disasters...(and despite the incredibly idiotic disinformation being fomented both online and on-air, this was and continues to be a natural disaster) natural disasters don't discriminate, they don't play favorites.

Courtesy of Bamford London

So well done and thank you to George Bamford, and the Bamford team for acting so quickly to put together this very cool watch that will, in turn, benefit many in need.

Here are the pertinents -

"I LOVE CA" B80

The Boys & Girls Club of Malibu.

"Like so many others, my family has been affected by the wildfires that have destroyed homes, businesses, property and lives in California. We at Bamford London want to support the families who have lost their homes and livelihoods, and raise funds for those who need it most. " - George Bamford  

  

All 50 watches will be donated to The Boys and Girls Club of Malibu Emergency Relief Services.  

       

Regular price£1,041.67


Description 

Every single penny raised through sales of the Bamford California B80 will be donated to BGC Malibu, to directly support the people of California with temporary housing, essentials, mental health services and emergency grants. 

Inside the titanium case of each B80 model is a Swiss-made Sellita SW300-1 movement, complete with 25 jewels, 28,800 VpH, a 56-hour power reserve. Both classical and bold in presence, the B80 warmly extends a hand to collectors and novices alike through its emphasis on choice: a model to suit all.

Specification

  • MODEL: Bamford 80
  • TYPE: Automatic Watch
  • MOVEMENT: Sellita SW300-1, 25 Jewels, 28,800 Vph, 56 hour power reserve
  • FUNCTION: Self winding mechanism. Time only
  • CASE MATERIAL: Black Titanium. Sapphire Crystal with antiglare
  • CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
  • CASE THICKNESS:10.5mm
  • CASEBACK MATERIAL: Black Titanium
  • WATER-RESISTANCE: 100m / 10 ATM
  • LUG WIDTH: 20mm
  • LUG TO LUG LENGTH: 48mm






Wednesday, January 22, 2025

Tempus Fugit - There and Back

As you are cruising through life, you have to take a moment every now and then and reflect on not only where you're trying to go, but where you've been.

A little over twenty five years ago Wendy and I were living and working in Helsinki, Finland. We had met in Japan as foreign English teachers, and living and working overseas for nearly 10 years. We were teaching English at the time, and I had unwittingly started a second career in the watch business. It was a seed that was planted and would germinate for 3 years, coming to bloom when I started at Tourneau in San Francisco.


Although I taught, I was also responsible for recruiting, hiring, and managing English teachers to come to Finland to work. This required a fair bit of travel, so to some extent Tintin, that globe-trotting journalist became my "guardo camino". And that travel took me through Heathrow's international terminal more times than I can count. One of the things that caught my eye on my last trip through on my way to San Francisco was a display featuring Alain Silberstein's watches. It was January, 2000 and that image stayed with me. It's important to note, while the internet certainly existed, it was nowhere near the evolved communication tool it has become. So I filed the image away. 

So a bit about this picture -
On my last official business trip to San Francisco, I was referred to a job that seemed to fit my skill set & experience. It was Martin Luther King Jr. day, and the day after I went to a small mom & pop copy shop on Market Street that opened early - I was there at 6:15 AM. I  rented some computer time (remember, it was 2000), typed up a resume, printed two copies and faxed one to the hiring manager. I had one interview the next day (Wednesday), and a follow-up interview with one of the owners that Friday.

I returned to Finland, and waited for what seemed to be an interminable amount time (in hindsight I think it was about 10 days), and got the call. I had been offered the job, and the owners wanted to fly Wendy and I to San Francisco for a week for a bit of a "getting to know you" visit. On our last day in San Francisco, we visited Globe-Trotter (a wonderful store on Sutter street that sold Tintin goods among other things). Sadly the store has long since closed, but 25 years ago they had a booming business and wonderful selection - including the tie you see in the photo above. Wendy got it for me as a Valentine's Day gift that year.

As for the watch? Pretty fitting that 25 years later, I was able to finally become the steward of one of Mr. Silberstein's signature pieces. It has clearly been worn and loved by at least two previous care givers, but for me that just adds to the charm. 25 years is a long time, more than a quarter of a life for most, but in many ways it passed in an instant. 

I leave you with a quote from that other great commentator on watches (and life) Matthew Broderick as Ferris Bueller -

"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it".

Enjoy your watches!


Saturday, January 18, 2025

Pecan Pie With Lime Sherbet à la Mode...

Courtesy of Tudor

Now before I go any further, I am the proud owner of a Tudor X Rowing Blazers Black Bay -


But I am not, at least I don't believe, a fan-boy. To that end, when I first clapped eyes on the latest release from Tudor posted by the big dogs the past few days... I winced. While I wouldn't say it looked so bad that it hurt my feelings, I would say that it immediately reminded me of an epic night at a restaurant in Gloucester, Massachusetts back in the late 50s/early 60s.

My father did not have what could be thought of as a celebrated academic career at the Cornell Hotel School. He had twice been asked to partake of what could kindly be called a sabbatical to reflect on his commitment (or lack thereof) to not only the pursuit of a career in hospitality management, but post secondary studies in general. It was during this first timeout he was hiding out from his parents in Texas thanks to a kindly cousin who found him a job as a bell-boy/front desk receptionist at the Shamrock Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky. Suffice it to say, the strength of family bonds was tested when word found its way back to the ranch in Brady that the old man had tanked his class in plumbing. This seemingly insignificant academic blip would prove crucial during the diarrhea outbreak that swept the Henderson household during the Christmas holiday of 1975. Yes, gentle reader, after the single toilet failed in a house with 5 youngsters and 4 adults (our cousins from Rockport were visiting Ohio, we resorted to cleaning buckets, and the menfolk skulking about the shrubbery in the neighbor's yard. 

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

Pepto Bismol would be running short in that region of Northern Ohio for over a fortnight following the outbreak of what came to be known as "white lightning & chocolate thunder" (all apologies to Planet Lovetron's favorite son Daryl Dawkins, his signature dunks would come a few years later). And when the plumber's bill was presented for emergency services provided over the holiday period, both of my older sisters were encouraged to consider attending the local vocational school, as plumbing appeared to be a career with a very lucrative future.

But back to Gloucester...

My father had a good friend from Cornell (who would later become my uncle, but that is a story for another time), and this friend's mother owned a restaurant on the waterfront that was very popular with out of town tourists. My father's Texas accent was thicker than a shag carpet after a frat party, so as you can imagine he was already a minor source of comic relief among both the staff and guests. My father spent one or two summers working at his friend's mother's restaurant. And together, they spent their summer working hours contriving ways to trick the rubes (read innocent restaurant patrons) into ordering some truly diabolical items that weren't on the menu. One particular weekend stood out as the freezer had conked out, and there was a mad push to sell as much of the frozen stock as possible. Free ice cream with everything! But the final Saturday night left them with a heavy surplus of one item in particular. As they prepped for service they agreed on a dessert that would not only clear out the freezer, but help reshape the culinary habits of coastal New England...

Pecan pie with lime sherbet à la mode.

Spoiler alert - they sold out! In fact, a travel writer for a midwestern news outlet wrote about it after being duped into ordering it. This led to a strange surge in requests from out of town diners hailing from Michigan (he was based in Grosse Point). God knows what could have happened if this had taken place during the Food Network's heyday, or with social media today, but that little Gloucester restaurant would never again feature their erstwhile signature item. But in my and my cousin's households, the legend lives on as a testament to what people will buy if you can just convince them that it's authentic.

Now back to the matter at hand - 

Courtesy of Tudor

The marketing folks in Le Locle assure us that this is a "BOLD AND VIBRANT CHOICE". I can certainly agree with that assessment. The same thing was once said about pecan pie and lime sherbet à la mode ; )

The asking price for this "Flamingo Blue" Black Bay Chronograph is $5,875. As a side note, I would encourage the brain trust at Tudor to visit Florida, a zoo, or even consult the internet... flamingos are, by and large, pink. Per the AI feature embedded in Google:

Flamingos are pink because of the carotenoid pigments in the food they eat, such as algae and shrimp. The color of a flamingo's feathers can range from pale pink to crimson, depending on the species.

So if you too are born to dare, and unlike John Waters prefer your flamingos blue, here are some basics -

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 41 mm in diameter with a lug width of 22 mm.

The movement is the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, offering time, date, and chronograph functions.

The dial is a "daring" Flamingo Blue.






Friday, January 17, 2025

Good Guys Sometimes Finish First - The SB04-E!

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Okay, I want you to imagine...
Imagine you are a designer, you have a successful design studio. You have a wife, two kids, responsibilities. To celebrate you and your friend's birthday you design and produce a watch. It does okay. You then make a very successful - and very affordable watch. And then, feeling that there is still room to grow you go back to the woodshed and come out with a watch so cool it blows up Instagram. 

Oh, and imagine that you are pretty much universally liked not just for your designs, but also because you are a genuinely nice person?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Armand Billard does not fit the mold of the typical watch brand rock star... thank goodness!


Yesterday Watch Town's social media channels were alight with news of Sartory Billard's latest offerings, and with good reason.

From small production runs, to bespoke pieces, and now something in the middle! These two beautiful new time machines offer the aesthetic of a custom Sartory Billard watch at a more affordable price. And for those with the means, not to worry - Armand will still be offering his truly spectacular custom creations will still be available.

Here are the two new models -
Courtesy of Sartory Billard

First up is the SB04-E Tantalum. In Sartory Billard's own words -

Tantalum Hand-Engraved: This dial showcases the mastery of hand-engraving. Like feathers catching the light, the texture is born of meticulous work by Armand. The resistant nature of tantalum makes achieving this unique pattern all the more satisfying.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Want something brighter? Armand's got you covered! In addition to Tantalum, the SB04-E also comes in a pretty spiffy Ruby version -

Ruby Platinum: This dial is crafted from a single piece of exceptionally rare ruby, meticulously cut and shaped to reveal its captivating depth and unique brilliance. Each "Cœur de Rubis" dial is a one-of-a-kind cut, bearing the distinct character and natural variations of the stone.

Here are pertinents -

Technical Specifications and Pricing

  • Movement: La Joux-Perret G101

    • Winding Mechanism: Tungsten rotor

    • Diameter: 26mm

    • Height: 4.45 mm

    • Frequency: 4Hz

    • Jewels: 24

    • Power Reserve: 68 hours

  • Case:

    • Material: 316L stainless steel 

    • Diameter: 39.5mm

    • Height: 10.3mm 

    • Lug to lug: 46mm

    • Water Resistance: 100m

    • Crown: Screw-down & Lumed

  • Strap: 

    • 20mm Curved Delugs CTS rubber strap with deployant clasp. 

    • Each watch also includes a voucher for a free additional Delugs strap.

  • Dial: 

    • Cœur de Rubis (Heart of Ruby) with a fumé sunray textured Platinum-plated outer ring 

    • Full Tantalum with handmade “Feathers” engraving with a fumé sunray textured solid tantalum outer ring 

    • Pad printed Minute track and Y design in white Super-LumiNova® BGW9 lume. 

    • Diamond cut indexes and ring between the dial parts.

Pricing MSRP (Excluding VAT):

  • SB04-E Ruby Platinum: €4700 

  • SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved: €3500

Wednesday, January 15, 2025

The BR-05 CHRONO PATROUILLE DE FRANCE

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Based on the BR-05 which Bell & Ross also refers to as part of its Urban collection, the BR-05 CHRONO PATROUILLE DE FRANCE offers a wonderful contrast from the ice blue of the main dial to the deep blue chrono registers (at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock), white numbers and hour markers offset by the deep blue minute/second trail around the main dial.

This is the fourth Bell & Ross / Patrouille de France collaboration. It is limited to 500 pieces and is currently available for pre-order with a projected delivery date in February.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

It is available on a rubber strap for $6,900, or on a steel bracelet for $7,400.

Here are the pertinents -
  • MOVEMENT

    Calibre BR-CAL.326. Automatic mechanical movement. 60-hour power reserve.

  • FUNCTIONS

    Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, chronograph seconds at centre.

  • CASE

    Width 42 mm, thickness 14.25 mm. Satin-finish polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire back with 360° oscillating weight.

  • DIAL

    Sunny blue. Patrouille de France logo at 6 o'clock. Numerals and hour-markers in white decal coated with Super-LumiNova®. Rhodium-plated skeleton hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. White second hand with airplane-shaped balance.

  • CRYSTAL

    Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

  • WATER-RESISTANCE

    100 metres.

  • STRAP

    Acier poli-satiné.

  • BUCKLE

    Folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.

Friday, January 10, 2025

These Romans are crazy!

I almost wrote about this when I first saw it, but wanted to make sure the project was happening - and it appears that it is! 

This is the ASTÉRIX from Chronofixe -

Courtesy of Chronofixe

This is a great collaboration with  Seconde/ Seconde/ who apart from the Vulcain "Vulcan Salute" squib, has created some truly wonderful riffs on popular themes. And As we know, All Gaul is Three... except for one little corner inhabited by Asterix and his colleagues ; )

So to celebrate Asterix becoming eligible to claim his social security (65 years), Chronofixe are offering this blissfully fun time machine.

Courtesy of Chronofixe

Priced at (I believe) €395,00, this is the second batch (the first one sold through).

Coutesy of Chronofixe

The case is of stainless steel and measures 37mm in diameter. The movement is self-winding, from Seiko. The strap is leather, and the lume is AMAZE-BALLS!

You can place your marker here -

The Vanitas

From Arena Timepieces -

Courtesy of Arena

This is the latest of a (thankfully) growing number of US based watch brands who although sourcing movements, cases, etc. from other locales, are in fact assembling their watches here in the US.

DESIGNED, ENGINEERED, AND ASSEMBLED IN LOS ANGELES


Now before anything else, I have to speak to what I have sensed as the brand's ethos - nothing is permanent, even time. Now in fairness, I can't claim super powers of intuition, but was tipped off by this statement on Arena's landing page:


YOUR TIME WILL END

You can't put it more plainly than that ; )


The case is of stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter, featuring a domed sapphire crystal.

Courtesy of Arena

The Arena comes standard with a stainless steel bracelet (above), and if I have understood correctly, a vulcanized rubber strap (below) -

Courtesy of Arena

Now onto the ever burning question - the price and availability. 

$1,430 is the ask, and for what you are getting it is a very, very fair price. This release is limited to 300 pieces.

For a first release, this is a very, very strong contender. The lines are clean, the dial super clear and legible (YOUR TIME WILL END - and your eye sight will not always be perfect). The bracelet is not like so many others out there, the look is unique. For movements, the choice of a Sellita is a solid one. Oh, and it's Chronometer Grade! 

The Vanitas is assembled in Los Angeles, not a third-party white label company in the Swiss Jura, Ticino, or other locales. Closer to the source, and easier to ensure quality control.

For more information, and to place your order, visit Arena Timepieces -

Arena TImepieces Vanitas


Wednesday, January 8, 2025

Something Just Under The Radar - The R.Day Astro-M

So apologies in advance, I've been a bit harried these past few weeks with real life pressing in on my current avocation. I am hoping to have a longer, in-depth story (with interview) with the creator of R. Day Watches - Richard Day. I was turned on to this groovy brand by that intrepid seeker of the new, unique, and "off the beaten path" time machines - Roman Serebrianik of the Fifth Wrist Radio podcast.

So for now I want to put this wonderful aluminum (YES! Aluminum!) watch in front of you to give you some understanding of the very special work that he is undertaking in the leafy glens of Wimbledon -

Courtesy of R. Day Watches

This is the R.Day Astro-M. As mentioned, the case is of aluminum. It is crafted by Mr. Day in his workshop. Subtract the crown, and it measures 39 mm in diameter, and 50 mm going the long way (lug to lug). The movement is from Miyota.

The price is very reasonable for a hand crafted case and dial - £960 GBP + shipping. The initial offering was 10 pieces and I suspect that they have all already been spoken for. With that said, if it's in your wheelhouse, reach out to see if another run is imminent ; )

Here are the particulars -

Technical information:

  • Case material: Aluminium

  • Case back material: Stainless Steel

  • Miyota 8245 Automatic movement with small seconds complication

  • 39mm diameter (excluding crown)

  • 50mm lug to lug

  • 13mm tall

  • 63 grams (excluding strap)

  • Leather strap