It's interesting how something brand new can hit you like a 2 x 4 and shake loose a memory strictly through visceral means. Back in October I was among the sea of humanity wandering around the Worn and Wound show in NYC. I had made a special point of saying hi to the guys from Duber Time (North American representatives for Mühle Glashutte), and that was the first time I clapped eyes on the Sportivo Travel GMT. I was instantly drawn to it.
Watches, watch commentary, watch reviews, the straight skinny on the watch business
Friday, January 31, 2025
Visceral Memories with the Mühle Glashutte Sportivo Diver
It's interesting how something brand new can hit you like a 2 x 4 and shake loose a memory strictly through visceral means. Back in October I was among the sea of humanity wandering around the Worn and Wound show in NYC. I had made a special point of saying hi to the guys from Duber Time (North American representatives for Mühle Glashutte), and that was the first time I clapped eyes on the Sportivo Travel GMT. I was instantly drawn to it.
Wednesday, January 29, 2025
Vulcain And The Presidents - Book 2
The new version of the real history of the Vulcain Cricket and the US Presidents who owned one is actually a practically new book. If I had thought the first 20 years of putting the first book was a project, the last 3 years has been particularly grueling ; )
Monday, January 27, 2025
The Tundra
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Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs |
This is the latest offering from OW Zurich. A brand new take on a historic model from OW's past. This newest iteration has a wonderful green dial, and like its most recent predecessor has Soprod's Newton Precision P092 in a COSC (Certified Chronometer) version.
Priced at CHF 1,956
Here are the pertinents -
TECHNICAL SPECS
Reference
OW 8001 TUNDRA
Year
2025
Dimensions
39.5 mm X 12.7 mm
Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel tonneau style, screwed bottom, screwed crown, fixed steel bezel; made in the Swiss Jura
Bezel
Fixed bezel with a laster etched markers at 1-minute and 5-minute intervals
Glass
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Dial
Double-lacquered ‘Tundra Green fumé’ dial; baton hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®, with date window at 6 o’clock
Water resistance
300m/ 30atm
Movement
Automatic, COSC-certified, bespoke OW Soprod Newton Precision P092; date-only calendar, with semi instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown; stop seconds; 4Hz 28,800 vibrations perhour; 23 jewels; 44-hour power reserve. The Soprod Newton P092 movement is also independently tested for dependability and durability at the internationally renowned Laboratoire Dubois in Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and has additionally been awarded a Chronofiable® certification.
Average Accuracy
+/- in accordance with CSOS tolerances
Bracelet
Integrated brushed oyster-style bracelet, engineered for comfort and stability and extreme durability. The bracelet is finished with sturdy milled, engraved clasp, extendable up to 22 mm, and a double pusher release system for extra security against accidental opening.
Origin
Handmade in the Swiss Jura
Saturday, January 25, 2025
Doing Good - Bamford London
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Courtesy of Bamford London |
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Courtesy of Bamford London |
So well done and thank you to George Bamford, and the Bamford team for acting so quickly to put together this very cool watch that will, in turn, benefit many in need.
"I LOVE CA" B80
The Boys & Girls Club of Malibu.
"Like so many others, my family has been affected by the wildfires that have destroyed homes, businesses, property and lives in California. We at Bamford London want to support the families who have lost their homes and livelihoods, and raise funds for those who need it most. " - George Bamford
All 50 watches will be donated to The Boys and Girls Club of Malibu Emergency Relief Services.
Specification
- MODEL: Bamford 80
- TYPE: Automatic Watch
- MOVEMENT: Sellita SW300-1, 25 Jewels, 28,800 Vph, 56 hour power reserve
- FUNCTION: Self winding mechanism. Time only
- CASE MATERIAL: Black Titanium. Sapphire Crystal with antiglare
- CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
- CASE THICKNESS:10.5mm
- CASEBACK MATERIAL: Black Titanium
- WATER-RESISTANCE: 100m / 10 ATM
- LUG WIDTH: 20mm
- LUG TO LUG LENGTH: 48mm
Thursday, January 23, 2025
Keeping Time with the Sportivo Travel GMT
Wednesday, January 22, 2025
Tempus Fugit - There and Back
Although I taught, I was also responsible for recruiting, hiring, and managing English teachers to come to Finland to work. This required a fair bit of travel, so to some extent Tintin, that globe-trotting journalist became my "guardo camino". And that travel took me through Heathrow's international terminal more times than I can count. One of the things that caught my eye on my last trip through on my way to San Francisco was a display featuring Alain Silberstein's watches. It was January, 2000 and that image stayed with me. It's important to note, while the internet certainly existed, it was nowhere near the evolved communication tool it has become. So I filed the image away.
Saturday, January 18, 2025
Pecan Pie With Lime Sherbet à la Mode...
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Courtesy of Tudor |
Now before I go any further, I am the proud owner of a Tudor X Rowing Blazers Black Bay -
But I am not, at least I don't believe, a fan-boy. To that end, when I first clapped eyes on the latest release from Tudor posted by the big dogs the past few days... I winced. While I wouldn't say it looked so bad that it hurt my feelings, I would say that it immediately reminded me of an epic night at a restaurant in Gloucester, Massachusetts back in the late 50s/early 60s.
My father did not have what could be thought of as a celebrated academic career at the Cornell Hotel School. He had twice been asked to partake of what could kindly be called a sabbatical to reflect on his commitment (or lack thereof) to not only the pursuit of a career in hospitality management, but post secondary studies in general. It was during this first timeout he was hiding out from his parents in Texas thanks to a kindly cousin who found him a job as a bell-boy/front desk receptionist at the Shamrock Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky. Suffice it to say, the strength of family bonds was tested when word found its way back to the ranch in Brady that the old man had tanked his class in plumbing. This seemingly insignificant academic blip would prove crucial during the diarrhea outbreak that swept the Henderson household during the Christmas holiday of 1975. Yes, gentle reader, after the single toilet failed in a house with 5 youngsters and 4 adults (our cousins from Rockport were visiting Ohio, we resorted to cleaning buckets, and the menfolk skulking about the shrubbery in the neighbor's yard.
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Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb |
Pepto Bismol would be running short in that region of Northern Ohio for over a fortnight following the outbreak of what came to be known as "white lightning & chocolate thunder" (all apologies to Planet Lovetron's favorite son Daryl Dawkins, his signature dunks would come a few years later). And when the plumber's bill was presented for emergency services provided over the holiday period, both of my older sisters were encouraged to consider attending the local vocational school, as plumbing appeared to be a career with a very lucrative future.
But back to Gloucester...
My father had a good friend from Cornell (who would later become my uncle, but that is a story for another time), and this friend's mother owned a restaurant on the waterfront that was very popular with out of town tourists. My father's Texas accent was thicker than a shag carpet after a frat party, so as you can imagine he was already a minor source of comic relief among both the staff and guests. My father spent one or two summers working at his friend's mother's restaurant. And together, they spent their summer working hours contriving ways to trick the rubes (read innocent restaurant patrons) into ordering some truly diabolical items that weren't on the menu. One particular weekend stood out as the freezer had conked out, and there was a mad push to sell as much of the frozen stock as possible. Free ice cream with everything! But the final Saturday night left them with a heavy surplus of one item in particular. As they prepped for service they agreed on a dessert that would not only clear out the freezer, but help reshape the culinary habits of coastal New England...
Pecan pie with lime sherbet à la mode.
Spoiler alert - they sold out! In fact, a travel writer for a midwestern news outlet wrote about it after being duped into ordering it. This led to a strange surge in requests from out of town diners hailing from Michigan (he was based in Grosse Point). God knows what could have happened if this had taken place during the Food Network's heyday, or with social media today, but that little Gloucester restaurant would never again feature their erstwhile signature item. But in my and my cousin's households, the legend lives on as a testament to what people will buy if you can just convince them that it's authentic.
Now back to the matter at hand -
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Courtesy of Tudor |
The marketing folks in Le Locle assure us that this is a "BOLD AND VIBRANT CHOICE". I can certainly agree with that assessment. The same thing was once said about pecan pie and lime sherbet à la mode ; )
The asking price for this "Flamingo Blue" Black Bay Chronograph is $5,875. As a side note, I would encourage the brain trust at Tudor to visit Florida, a zoo, or even consult the internet... flamingos are, by and large, pink. Per the AI feature embedded in Google:
Flamingos are pink because of the carotenoid pigments in the food they eat, such as algae and shrimp. The color of a flamingo's feathers can range from pale pink to crimson, depending on the species.
So if you too are born to dare, and unlike John Waters prefer your flamingos blue, here are some basics -
The case is of stainless steel, and measures 41 mm in diameter with a lug width of 22 mm.
The movement is the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, offering time, date, and chronograph functions.Friday, January 17, 2025
Good Guys Sometimes Finish First - The SB04-E!
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Courtesy of Sartory Billard |
Armand Billard does not fit the mold of the typical watch brand rock star... thank goodness!
Technical Specifications and Pricing
Movement: La Joux-Perret G101
Winding Mechanism: Tungsten rotor
Diameter: 26mm
Height: 4.45 mm
Frequency: 4Hz
Jewels: 24
Power Reserve: 68 hours
Case:
Material: 316L stainless steel
Diameter: 39.5mm
Height: 10.3mm
Lug to lug: 46mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crown: Screw-down & Lumed
Strap:
20mm Curved Delugs CTS rubber strap with deployant clasp.
Each watch also includes a voucher for a free additional Delugs strap.
Dial:
Cœur de Rubis (Heart of Ruby) with a fumé sunray textured Platinum-plated outer ring
Full Tantalum with handmade “Feathers” engraving with a fumé sunray textured solid tantalum outer ring
Pad printed Minute track and Y design in white Super-LumiNova® BGW9 lume.
Diamond cut indexes and ring between the dial parts.
Pricing MSRP (Excluding VAT):
SB04-E Ruby Platinum: €4700
SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved: €3500
Wednesday, January 15, 2025
The BR-05 CHRONO PATROUILLE DE FRANCE
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Courtesy of Bell & Ross |
Based on the BR-05 which Bell & Ross also refers to as part of its Urban collection, the BR-05 CHRONO PATROUILLE DE FRANCE offers a wonderful contrast from the ice blue of the main dial to the deep blue chrono registers (at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock), white numbers and hour markers offset by the deep blue minute/second trail around the main dial.
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Courtesy of Bell & Ross |
It is available on a rubber strap for $6,900, or on a steel bracelet for $7,400.
MOVEMENT
Calibre BR-CAL.326. Automatic mechanical movement. 60-hour power reserve.
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, chronograph seconds at centre.
CASE
Width 42 mm, thickness 14.25 mm. Satin-finish polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire back with 360° oscillating weight.
DIAL
Sunny blue. Patrouille de France logo at 6 o'clock. Numerals and hour-markers in white decal coated with Super-LumiNova®. Rhodium-plated skeleton hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. White second hand with airplane-shaped balance.
CRYSTAL
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
WATER-RESISTANCE
100 metres.
STRAP
Acier poli-satiné.
BUCKLE
Folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.
Friday, January 10, 2025
These Romans are crazy!
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Courtesy of Chronofixe |
This is a great collaboration with Seconde/ Seconde/ who apart from the Vulcain "Vulcan Salute" squib, has created some truly wonderful riffs on popular themes. And As we know, All Gaul is Three... except for one little corner inhabited by Asterix and his colleagues ; )
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Courtesy of Chronofixe |
Priced at (I believe) €395,00, this is the second batch (the first one sold through).
The Vanitas
From Arena Timepieces -
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Courtesy of Arena |
This is the latest of a (thankfully) growing number of US based watch brands who although sourcing movements, cases, etc. from other locales, are in fact assembling their watches here in the US.
DESIGNED, ENGINEERED, AND ASSEMBLED IN LOS ANGELES
Now before anything else, I have to speak to what I have sensed as the brand's ethos - nothing is permanent, even time. Now in fairness, I can't claim super powers of intuition, but was tipped off by this statement on Arena's landing page:
YOUR TIME WILL END
You can't put it more plainly than that ; )
The case is of stainless steel, and measures 39 mm in diameter, featuring a domed sapphire crystal.
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Courtesy of Arena |
The Arena comes standard with a stainless steel bracelet (above), and if I have understood correctly, a vulcanized rubber strap (below) -
Wednesday, January 8, 2025
Something Just Under The Radar - The R.Day Astro-M
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Courtesy of R. Day Watches |
This is the R.Day Astro-M. As mentioned, the case is of aluminum. It is crafted by Mr. Day in his workshop. Subtract the crown, and it measures 39 mm in diameter, and 50 mm going the long way (lug to lug). The movement is from Miyota.
Technical information:
Case material: Aluminium
Case back material: Stainless Steel
Miyota 8245 Automatic movement with small seconds complication
39mm diameter (excluding crown)
50mm lug to lug
13mm tall
63 grams (excluding strap)
Leather strap