Embossed and sunray-brushed gun dial, black snailing and black opaline counters (12 o'clock + 6 o'clock) with light blue prints. Light blue snailing counter (9 o'clock) with white prints. Polished black plated M-logo.
Strap
STRAP MATERIAL - Blue rubber
EASY STRAP EXCHANGE - Yes
BUCKLE - Sandblasted black DLC pin buckle
Movement MOVEMENT Automatic ML112
FUNCTIONS Central hours and minutes. Small second at 9 o'clock. Chronograph second indicated by central hand. 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o'clock. 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o'clock. Day and date at 3 o'clock.
DECORATIONS Circular-graining. Vertical Côtes de Genève on bridges and rotor.
So earlier today, the North Shore offices of Tempus Fugit received the news of BaselWorld's triumphant, feel-good comeback! And if nothing else, the press release proved once again English is indeed a challenging language...
It's the same self-congratulatory praise that the BaselWorld organizers have been bestowing upon themselves for as long as any of us can remember. It seems strangely familiar, and manages to avoid the deeper questions that a brand manager might ask, like - "Where the Hell's my money from last year?" And in reading it, I am reminded of that other great commentator on the watch business, Troy McClure from the Simpsons -
So let's unpack it, shall we?
Smells Like Teen Spirit...
Now in fairness, we all make mistakes. But the very first paragraph of the release is a minefield:
A Baselworld officially opened its first 'pop-up event' in Geneva this evening, at a press conference presenting the new Baselworld spirit, with 10 independent brands and a programme that favours openness, conviviality and networking. This event is part of the build-up to Baselworld 2022, which will take place in Basel from March 31 to April 4, 2022.
Where to begin? I honestly don't know what "A Baselworld" is in the context of what I had previously known as BaselWorld. The "new Baselworld spirit" is also hard to get my head around. Does this mean that brands will no longer be hounded to sign agreements and surrender tens of thousands of Swiss francs for a show that will never happen? Does this mean that people who should never have been shafted out of their money over a year ago might see it returned? Does it mean that they might be given a SHOCKINGLY low price to participate in the future? Or does it mean that they are simply getting the fuzzy end of the lollipop once again, but with a new and improved "Baselworld spirit"?
Say What?
Connecting with the industry Celebrating a premiere, the new Baselworld was launched with an unprecedented step outside its traditional premises to meet the industry and its customers. For the first time the new spirit of Baselworld was presented with a pop-up event in Geneva, which will run from Monday August 30 to Thursday September 2, simultaneously with the Geneva Watch Days. At the heart of the new concept is the customer.
Sorry, I'm calling BS on this one. The only unprecedented aspect of this is that the organizers convinced 10 brands to meet them in Geneva. That and the author's ability to use the present continuous, past and various forms of the future tense all at once.
Variety 10 watch brands - Claude Meylan, IceWatch, AHCI represented by Ludovic Ballouard and David Candaux, BA111OD Watch Concept, Bomberg, Furlan Marri, Ikepod, Riskers and Sinn Spezialuhren - all chosen for their independent profile, their size and their distinctive positioning, are gathered under the new Baselworld banner, and participating in the new concept to showcase their novelties.
Let's be very honest here - these brands were not so much selected, as they were willing to cast their lots with BaselWorld once again. If we are talking about a compendium package of beer from around the world like you find at Christmas? Yes, 10 is variety. If we are talking about a collection of Kickstarter projects that have matured into brands - and I say that in no way as a negative thing, as well as 3 or 4 established brands? Let's just say that several regional shows here in the US drew more brands to participate than this. This is not variety, this is who was willing to roll the dice.
All year round Physical, hybrid: animating the community all year round 24/7/365, is the core of the new Baselworld concept. With this first meeting we are launching a multitude of events - live and virtual - that will take place on the new digital platform, which will be activated in a few weeks' time in the autumn of 2021. Original content, events, networking, connections are new tools, for the industry, that have been developed and that will be made available to brands to optimise their audience and their business, all year round, in addition to the physical meeting points.
So it begs the question (and frankly all credulity) -How can it be that with all of the eager content creators who we've been told have already been brought on board, said content hasn't been "activated" yet and won't be "activated" until a time that is very clearly not "now"?
"It's Another Festivus Miracle!"
Festivalisation
editor's note, we did endeavor to find an actual reference source beyond event planning articles to verify the etymology of the word Festivalisation, but to quote that other great commentator on the watch event planning business, Erik Francis Schrody, (who goes by the nom de rap Everlast) we found ourselves choking on a fistful of nothin'. Under the auspices of inclusiveness, in Geneva this week, one can expect a vibrant social programme with an opening party, happy hour cocktails, aftershow and closing party. The business programme will be live broadcast featuring: Espresso Talks between Baselworld Managing Director Michel Loris-Melikoff and Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari, as well as with Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant at Phillips in Association with Bacs&Russo. A series of panel discussions on current topics such as Blockchain demystified with Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, whose member associations in more than 45 countries encompass more than 7 million individuals involved in world’s jewellery and gemstone sectors, the rise of CPO (Certified Pre-Owned, watchmaking and jewellery), Women in Watchmaking and the Art of Collecting will complete the programme. Much of all the above will be replicated on a larger scale at the grand show in Basel next year as the new Baselworld 2022 spirit reveals itself in a new environment as cool, friendly, trendy and open and accessible to all.
Also interesting to note that the Baselworld spirit will be categorized by age (or dare we say it, vintage) and apparently next year's spirit will be that of Baselworld 2022! I've been told it will be a bit toothsome, with hints of pencil shavings and a soupçon of black currant. But in truth, I will be forever grateful that this dynamic, new Baselworld spirit will live on all year long! Yes, that was sarcasm. The old BaselWorld spirit is still alive and well and causing more than one brand owner to ask if they can finally get their money back from the fair that never was.
But maybe, if we close our eyes and wish real hard, the magic that is the Baselworld spirit will be something that we can enjoy all year long...
FUNCTIONS - Split-second monopusher chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds - Chronograph's minutes at 4:30 - Small seconds at 7:30 - Split-second pusher at 10:30
MOVEMENT - Calibre SXH6: haute horlogerie automatic power-horse movement with a split-second monopusher chronograph module - Power reserve: 60 hours - Frequency: 4 Hz - 28’800 VpH - Variable inertia balance wheel - Two column wheels, chronograph horizontal clutch, patent-pending split-second clamp - 49 jewels, 292 components - Recycled 5N rose gold rotor with Czapek logo - Diameter: 34mm
FINISH - Finely shotblasted bridges with hand-polished chamfers - Linear satin-finished chronograph levers with hand-polished chamfers - Circular satin-finished wheels - Black-polished screws, studs and column wheels
CASE - 42.5mm stainless-steel case - Height (with glass-box): 15.3mm - Perceived height (bezel to case-back): 10.5mm - Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment - Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side
- Water resistance: 120m
BRACELET - Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive "Easy Release" system - Optional leather or rubber strap
DIAL - Open-worked split-second chronograph on the dial side (world première) - Sword hours and minutes hands with SuperLuminova treatment - Split-second hand with red tip - Diamond-chamfered rhodium-plated minutes ring and counters
It's official, Roland Murphy and his team at RGM have crawled into fevered, cobweb riddled skull, created the watch I always wanted (but just didn't realize it).
Courtesy of RGM
2 time zones, and a date window that is big and easy to read.
Courtesy of RGM
If you find yourself obsessed with this wonderful time machine as I presently find myself, here are the pertinents -
Movement Caliber: RGM-ETA 2892-A2 - Swiss made automatic, 21 jewels, 28,800 vph, with timezone and big date module. Rhodium finish - Cote de Geneve lines and Perlage.
Functions: Hour / Minute / Second / Second Timezone / Big Date
Case: 316L Stainless Steel, 38.7 mm x 12 mm. Curved sapphire crystal front, flat sapphire back, 20mm lug width, and water-resistant to 5-ATM.
Weight: 2.7 oz.
And best of all, the price -
$3,700 you will still have enough to afford that wonderful trip you've been waiting to take.
This is the M-1 Launch Edition, the first of 3 different collections in the works for Mustonen, a new brand based in Helsinki.
Courtesy of Mustonen
The case is of stainless steel and measures 39mm x 51 mm.
Courtesy of Mustonen
Now you might be asking yourself, what is that object in the side of the watch case? It is, apparently, a small piece of meteorite from our next-door neighbor, Mars. This watch can be had with an onyx or aventurine dial.
Courtesy of Mustonen
You also have the option of having the official NASA logo on the dial.
Courtesy of Mustonen
The Movement is STP's Calibre 1-11.
This is currently a pre-order item and is anticipated to deliver in January of next year (2022).
As we start to take our collective second lap on the COVID track that is our new (hopefully temporary) reality, it was a wonderful pleasure to rediscover two RGM GMT pieces. Today I am focusing on the Model-500 GMT -
Courtesy of RGM
The 500 GMT hits some real sweet spots for me. It is not quite a diver, and not quite a dress watch but a true field watch that truly could be the "One Watch To Rule Them All".
It is available in Gray, Black and my personal favorite -
Courtesy of RGM
A truly lovely green.
The case is of stainless steel, and measures a very reasonable 41 mm in diameter.
The bezel is bi-directional, which is a first for RGM. The movement is based on ETA's 2893-2.
While not a giveaway, it is very fairly priced at $4,450.
Case CASE DIAMETER 42mm CASE MATERIAL Stainless Steel WATER RESISTANCE Water resistance to 20 ATM
Dial Black sun-brushed Clous de Paris
Strap STRAP MATERIAL Stainless steel EASY STRAP EXCHANGE Yes BUCKLE Butterfly buckle in stainless steel
Movement
Automatic ML 115 FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes and seconds. Date at 3 o'clock. DECORATIONS Circular-graining and snailing. Vertical Côtes de Genève and sun-brushed on rotor with maori engravement Rhodium-plated.
As much as I love the P02, I have to say that the P01 is a welcome visceral sucker punch from the team from Hagerstown.
Courtesy of Hager Watches
Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:
Courtesy of Hager Watches
The first tourbillon pocket watch, HGRP-01, is slightly steampunk, industrial style wearable 42mm modern sapphire glass open faced watch set inside a DLC cushion case with three-hole security screws features a sophisticated skeleton structure, with baton hour markers filled with ecru Super-LumiNova®, that enables distinctive technical aspects of this movement to be seen.
Courtesy of Hager Watches
The exhibition caseback offers a superb view of the movement framed by a blue stamped guilloché hobnail ring with the Hager logo and a Maryland cross bottony on the crown wheel. The watch comes with a 10mm brown leather fob. Stylistically this is similar to the Rolex Oyster pocket watch from 1925/26, Cartier Grand Complication Pocket Watch, Panerai Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica PAM446, Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch and Urwerks 1001. Case size is 42mm X 42mm, water resistant to 3ATM. Currently limited to 10 pieces.
One of the truly great things about writing Tempus Fugit is that I've gotten to meet some truly great people, and one who I am particularly proud to call my friend is Armand Billard, the co-founder and owner of Sartory Billard.
Courtesy of Sartory Billard
Most of us, when asked what we want for our birthday can come up with several things we'd like to have.
And sometimes we say - "don't get me anything, just make a donation".
And that's commendable. But rare is the fellow who goes beyond that and says -
"I'm going to create something singularly wonderful, and I'm going to use it to do something else that is singularly wonderful, and by doing so, I am going to give someone else the opportunity to do something singularly wonderful, and they will get to own something singularly wonderful.
In his own words, because after all, it's going to be his birthday:
Help me celebrate my 46th birthday!
Let’s make a fantastic donation for the benefit of @unicef and their eduction program for children. On September 10th I will hold a "closed envelope" bid for this Blue Ghost SB04 fitted with a ceramic dial!
What is a "closed envelope" bid ?
Simple - make me an offer by DM, email or WhatsApp and at the end of the day (24:00 CET) the highest bid will get the watch and all €€ will be donated to UNICEF !
Bids start at 2500€ !!
PLEASE - spread the word among watch collectors!
Happy Friday evening to you all and special thanks to @atelierpetrov who will supply the strap for this piece unique!!
It would seem that the Oberlin Watch Company is now, well, an actual watch company! And important piece of disclosure, I am the owner.
I grew up in Oberlin, a town of under 10,000 (as of the 2010 census) located in Northern Ohio. Almost a year ago, as we were all getting good and melancholy during lockdown, a friend reached out and asked if I could make a watch for Oberlin. At the time, I figured it would be one of those ideas that would get talked about, I would explain why it probably wasn't such a hot idea, and that would be the end of it.
As regular readers, by now it is clear that you are the opposite of the Playboy subscriber - you actually do come here for the writing ; ) Put another way, as poor as my photography is, my design skills are even more shambolic. Luckily, I reached out to my friend Armand Billard and he was kind enough to help -
And based on this rendering, and this caseback -
We had a concept. My assemblers gave me a great price with a very realistic minimum order (100 pieces), but I still wasn't 100% sure it was worth pursuing.
And then a few Oberlin Facebook groups got wind of the possible project and suddenly I had 10 pre-orders.
And then this article from the local regional newspaper triggered another 50 pre-orders:
And like that, we had at least the possibility for a fun one-off limited watch -
40 mm, stainless steel with screw back case back. The movement is quartz, and the price is $97.97 US plus shipping. But then there were more requests -
Could you make one in a more basic white & black? A few retail stores wanted to carry it. Different groups, clubs and teams asked for special versions...
Long story short? We're going to move forward!
So if it is in your wheelhouse, please visit my little venture at -
Both versions are of titanium with a DLC treated version (above) and a standard titanium (below) -
Courtesy of CYRUS
Ordinarily I just give you the stats. But in this case it is a fairly complex proposition, so as they went to a lot of trouble to provide a fairly comprehensive briefing, I'm going to let CYRUS tell it in their own words -
CYRUS introduces KLEPCYS DICE
An unprecedented monopusher chronograph
capable of measuring two short intervals independently
CYRUS Geneva, the independent Swiss watch brand, enriches its Klepcys collection with a new chronograph model. Christened "KLEPCYS DICE", it is presented in two different versions in limited editions of 50 pieces each.
KLEPCYS DICE is the acronym of Klepcys Double Independent Chronograph Evolution. As its name indicates, it is an evolution of the traditional chronograph. An innovative technical development, our master watchmaker, Jean-François Mojon, has transformed it into a double chronograph capable of measuring two short intervals of time independently or in synchrony. However, it should not be confused with the rattrapante version, where the two hands track the time of two events that start simultaneously but end at different times or indicate an intermediate elapsed time.
The first reports of a double independent chronograph date back to 1873, when watchmaker Arnold Frankfeld registered the development of his 'Double-Stop Movements' at the New York patent office. To our knowledge, there is no more recent evidence of this kind of timepiece.
Since its foundation in 2010, the driving force behind every watchmaking creation at CYRUS is the ongoing "Conquest of Innovation". The bold and distinctive three-dimensional architecture that houses the atypical layouts of all Cyrus watches is only possible using cutting-edge technical solutions. These solutions also ensure excellent levels of reliability and precision.
All these aspects come to life in exclusive limited-edition timekeeping instruments that stand out in the vast landscape of contemporary watchmaking.
Thanks to the brand's independence, its swift decision-making process, its production autonomy and impressive watchmaking know-how, CYRUS is proud to present KLEPCYS DICE. Powered by an exceptional self-winding manufacture movement, KLEPCYS DICE is equipped with an unprecedented double independent monopusher chronograph.
What motivated the creation of a double independent chronograph?
For Jean-François Mojon, the mastermind behind all CYRUS collections, the search for unique solutions that depart from classic watchmaking traditions are the way forward. The motivation behind the creation of KLEPCYS DICE comes directly from the world of sports with which CYRUS has a very special relationship, being “Official timekeeper and Watch partner” of the Uralkali Haas Formula 1 Team.
As Mojon explains: "This modern chronograph is the result of a deep reflection on the role of timing in sports competitions. In many sports, it is often important to measure elapsed times with different starting times. This occurs, for example, in races like marathons or biathlons where athletes do not cross the starting line at the same time or even in Formula 1 - a world very close to CYRUS - where two drivers, during the race tests, start at different times. In events like these, where the starting time is different for every sportsman, the KLEPCYS DICE chronograph can measure the times between two consecutive runners or racing drivers. A similar situation arises in car rallies, where it is common to use two independent chronographs. Our latest timepiece facilitates this operation thanks to the two monopusher crowns, which are essential to avoid any unwanted manipulation."
A bold identity
KLEPCYS DICE comes in a distinctive 26-part cushion-shaped case. With a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 16.5 mm, the case is water-resistant to 10 ATM/100 m.
Available in polished grade 5 titanium or black DLC grade 5 titanium, the case undergoes various finishings, alternating polished, satin-brushed and sandblasted surfaces. The case back is sealed with customised screws with the Maison's three-armed helix logo.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Ref. 539.508.TT.A(polished titanium)
Ref. 539.508.DD.A (black DLC titanium)
Movement
Manufacture self-winding movement, calibre CYR718
Dimensions: 36.00 mm Ø x 11.65 mm thickness
Components: 443 total - 218 correspond to the chronograph module
Number of Jewels: 51 total - 17 correspond to the chronograph module
Annular balance wheel
Frequency : 4 Hz
Vibrations per hour: 28,800
Swiss lever escapement
Rhodium-plated barrel with snailed ratchet wheel, Cyrus logo and inscription filled with black lacquer
Power reserve: 60 hours
Two microbeaded black PVD mainplates
Bridges: grey anthracite NAC galvanic treatment, decorated with embossed sunray pattern with satin and microbeaded finishing
New open-worked monobloc rotor with a sunray pattern, engraved with "The Conquest of Innovation", open-worked central medallion with Cyrus helix logo in 18K 4N gold
Functions
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
30-minute counter of the double independent chronograph at 3 o'clock, double hands in red and blue
Two central chronograph hands; red hand resets-to-zero at 12 o'clock, blue hand resets at 6 o'clock
Case
Cushion-shaped case made of 26 parts
Diameter: 42 mm excluding the crowns
Thickness: 16.5 mm
Available in the following materials:
-Polished Grade 5 titanium,
-Grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment
Crown at 3 o'clock: position 1 to wind the movement; position 2 to adjust time + pusher for activation of chronograph No. 1 (start-stop-reset)
Crown at 9 o'clock: pusher to activate chronograph No. 2 (start-stop-reset)
Decoration of crowns: engraved Cyrus logo, black rubber ring embossed with grooves and red anodised aluminium ring on crown at 3 o'clock corresponding to chronograph No. 1; blue anodised aluminium ring at 9 o'clock corresponding to chronograph No. 2
Sapphire crystal on dial side: anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case back: sapphire crystal, sealed with customised screws with Cyrus logo
Engraving "Limited Edition ONE of 50"
Water-resistance: 10 ATM (100 m – 330 ft)
Dial
3D open-worked dial
Sapphire crystal hour ring with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, bevelled and polished edges, Arabic numerals with white Super-LumiNova with blue light emissions
Minute markers on black PVD flange placed at 5-minute intervals, treated with white Super-LumiNova with blue glow
Flange with double scale corresponding to chronograph with 5-minute intervals in red and blue
Small seconds counter at 9 o'clock: smoked anti-reflective sapphire crystal, white lacquered Arabic numerals at 15-second intervals surmounted by a microblasted rhodium-plated ring, helix small seconds hand with luminescent tip (white Super-LumiNova with blue glow)
30-minute counter at 3 o'clock: smoked anti-reflective sapphire glass, luminescent markers at 5-minute intervals, two hands in red and blue with double indications at 15/30 minutes in same colour corresponding to the two independent chronographs
Lacquered column wheels: red at 12 o'clock and blue at 6 o'clock
Open-worked hour and minute hands, rhodium-plated with polished edges, treated with white Super-LumiNova with blue glow
Central chronograph seconds hands: red hand with reset at 12 o'clock, blue with reset at 6 o'clock
Strap
·Grey Cordura fabric strap with folding clasp in same
