Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Rolex Laureate - Tomas Diagne

Another example of what a brand ambassador could and should be, allow me to acquaint you with a Rolex Award for Enterprise Laureate from 1998, Tomas Diagne and his project aimed to protect the wild tortoises of Senegal.

Here is a link to the Tortoise Village in Senegal -
http://www.villagetortues.com

Courtesy of Rolex

And here's the rundown, straight from Rolex -
“The reintroduction of sulcata into the wild is our ultimate aim. All our work here is orientated towards that goal.”
Tomas Diagne’s Tortoise Village at Noflaye, Senegal, attracts tourists and volunteers from around the world keen to learn more about Senegal’s seven species of tortoise, including the biggest land tortoise in Africa, Geochelone sulcata.

This famous animal, which can live for 150 years, was becoming more and more rare until Diagne, a major figure in African nature conservation, decided to save it.


Tortoise Village
"You’re going to turn my house into a zoo!" Papa Diagne used to say as his tiny garden in Dakar was filled with chickens, snakes and a menagerie of other animals collected by his 12-year-old son, Tomas. "He was not keen on the idea," Tomas now recalls. "The animals made a mess, and I was neglecting my studies."

Today, Tomas Diagne, aged 30, is well known throughout West Africa and abroad as a dedicated, perceptive and energetic conservationist. "I am originally a city boy, and should have been interested in cars, not animals," he explains. But as a boy he used to wake up early each morning to listen to the birds in the local park before going to school.

Later, when his father bought a farm in Sangalkam, 35 kilometres northeast of Dakar, Tomas spent his school holidays in the bush. "I’d gather lots of specimens and bring them back to the house to study them. At first I was interested in snakes, but one day I came across some tortoises."

He had in fact collected Geochelone sulcata, the African spurred tortoise. Searching for information about sulcata, he came across an article by Bernard Devaux, a French tortoise specialist.

"I sent him photographs of the tortoises, and he wrote back telling me that this species was highly endangered," Diagne recalls. "I felt that this was tragic, and I wanted to do something to protect them." Tomas Diagne’s future was determined by that wish.

In 1992, with only three tortoises, Diagne set up a sulcata sanctuary on his father’s farm in Sangalkam. He wanted to establish a tortoise village modelled on the Village des Tortues set up by Devaux in the south of France. The following year, with help from Devaux, Diagne established S.O.S. Sulcata, a project aimed at collecting tortoises and breeding them at Sangalkam.

Moving In

Using radio broadcasts, Diagne raised awareness of S.O.S. Sulcata, and the public began donating their pet tortoises. Diagne also persuaded the government to allow tortoises seized by customs in Europe to be repatriated to Senegal and sent to Sangalkam. In 1997, Diagne opened the village to the public. "I had a lot of success with the radio, and I saw that my father’s farm would not be big enough, so I started looking for a larger piece of land."

Devaux encouraged Diagne, suggesting he contact the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) office in Senegal, which in turn urged Diagne to visit the Protected Forest of Noflaye, not far from his father’s farm. "The director at that time was Patrick Bouland," remembers Diagne. "He took me to see the reserve — it was the first step in setting up the [new] village." The next task was to obtain permission from the government to use part of the reserve for the project.

Abdoulaye Kane, then director of Senegal’s Department of Water and Forests, and now head of IUCN Senegal, was a key ally. "It took me some time to convince him," Diagne says, "but once he was convinced, he was like a father to me — it was as if he adopted me."

In 1997, Diagne gained permission to use 15 hectares of reserve land. Devaux’s organisation, SOPTOM, made a cash gift to allow work to begin. A well was sunk and a 2km fence was built around the land to protect the vegetation from the local zebu herds.

In 1998, Tomas Diagne was selected as an Associate Laureate in the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, and the following year the European Union approved a grant of €152,000. "The Rolex Award helped secure the funding," Diagne comments. "It was like a recommendation." Work on the village went ahead, and the Noflaye Tortoise Village opened on 17 March 2001. "The new village was planned to receive large numbers of visitors without disturbing the tortoises," Diagne explains. "It has room for 3,000 tortoises, while the old one only had space for 800."

Tourist Attraction

Part of Noflaye’s success is due to its location on what Diagne calls the "tourist trail", between Rufisque and Lake Rose, the finishing point for the Paris-Dakar Rally. Giant silver-grey baobab trees dominate the landscape, towering over a patchwork of thorny bush and bare, ochre-coloured earth.

The village is a cluster of thatched buildings. "The main building has offices, an exhibition hall and accommodation," explains Diagne. "It is dedicated to Théodore Monod, the first naturalist to study Noflaye’s wildlife."

The tortoises are kept in enclosures with log fences typical of those used in Senegal for cattle. "One of the unique things about sulcata," says Diagne, "is that they burrow dens to protect themselves from heat in the dry season and in cold nights during the rainy season." A concrete wall has been sunk a metre into the earth around the adult enclosure to prevent underground escapes. In the wild the tortoises retreat into tunnels during the dry season where they undergo a form of hibernation.

Between October and April the foreign tourists arrive, in particular Germans and French-speaking Europeans. "On the weekends, many people come from Dakar," says Diagne. "I’m delighted that they know about the village and that they are interested in nature." Local schools bring busloads of children. The entrance fee is €4.60 for foreigners and €0.80 for Senegalese. "We received 4,500 visitors in its first year," says Diagne.

Mating takes place all year round, but especially after the rainy season when jousts between males competing for females can be fatal. Males have a hook-like outgrowth of shell below their necks which they use to overturn their opponent. Once on its back, a tortoise cannot right itself. "In the village we can help them," explains Diagne, "but in the wild they die from heat exposure."

Protecting the Young

Females usually lay two batches of 14 to 21 eggs between December and April. Roughly the size of table-tennis balls, the eggs are buried 15cm in the earth. "Skunks and monitor lizards, or any animal with a good sense of smell will find them," says Diagne. So the eggs are collected immediately by his staff and buried in the "hatchery" where they are protected by wire mesh. "The eggs are not incubated by body heat like mammals or birds," he says. "They rely on the heat of the sun to develop so the incubation period depends on the weather." In hot years, eggs hatch after 2.5 months, but it can take up to four months in cooler years.

"The sex of the tortoise is determined by the temperature during incubation," Diagne explains. "The warmer eggs become male and the cooler ones female."

The hatchlings have extremely soft skin, and are vulnerable to predators. "In the wild only 1 per cent of hatchlings survive but here 80 per cent reach the adult stage." In 2001, 375 sulcata were born in the village.

Three-year-olds, digging their first dens, are moved to the juvenile enclosure. When they reach 3kg, at the age of four or five years, the tortoises learn to fend for themselves. "Away from the tourists, we have a large adaptation enclosure," says Diagne, "where the young learn to survive in the wild." The tortoises eat wild plants and have minimum human contact. Tortoises that have spent a long time in captivity are generally not capable of surviving in the wild. "They stay in the village for breeding," Diagne continues. But some escapees have managed to stay alive. "Sometimes I come across them in the reserve outside the village. I’m delighted to see that they can survive."

The Ultimate Goal

The village’s biggest tortoise is 46-year-old "Bill", weighing 96kg, a little lighter than the sulcata maximum male weight of about 100kg. Females are smaller, their maximum weight never passing 60kg. Seventy-year-old Sibille (40kg) is the village’s oldest denizen, but she is barely middle-aged for a species that can live for 150 years. Tomas Diagne’s favourite is Lat Dior named after Lat Dior Diop, a national hero who fought against the French in the 19th century. "He was the first large tortoise that we were given," says Diagne, "and he attacks people — he has no fear of man. For me, he symbolises his species’ fight for survival. I tell him that he can fight against humans, but he can’t win. I tell him I have another way for his species to survive."

The village is also home to six other species of tortoise and turtle — one terrestrial and five aquatic. The land tortoise is the West African hinged tortoise that lives in the forests of southern Senegal. Hinged tortoises can fold the rear section of the shell under their bodies for extra protection. The aquatic turtles include the Nile softshell and the Senegal softshell, covered in soft, leathery skin rather than rigid armour. These agile predators live on fish in big rivers. The other three species belong to the mud turtle family that inhabits sluggish, muddy rivers and marshes.

"The reintroduction of sulcata into the wild is our ultimate aim," says Diagne. "All our work here is orientated towards that goal." Noflaye sulcata will be reintroduced to the Ferlo, the Sahel region in northeast Senegal. But much work needs to be carried out before sulcata can be returned to its natural habitat. "We need to ensure that they will be able to survive," says Diagne. This will mean undertaking research into the habitat, as well as ensuring that local people support the project. Diagne is working to raise the €76,000 necessary for the reintroduction programme.

The programme’s nucleus will be the Louggouré Tioli Special Reserve in the Ferlo region. In the 1990s, Diagne worked with IUCN and the Senegalese Directorate of National Parks to set up the nature reserve which would serve as a haven for sulcata as well as other Sahel species. Senegal’s president, Abdou Diouf, signed a decree in February 1999 creating the 2,600ha reserve and declaring that the reserve would protect the Sahel fauna, "particularly the tortoise Geochelone sulcata".

The need to protect Senegal’s wild sulcata has become an extremely urgent task. "There was a pocket of sulcata holding out in the northern Ferlo," reports Diagne, "but two years ago, there was a fire and the population dropped. Experts estimate that there are now only a total of 30 individuals left in the wild."

Conservation at Heart

Diagne has been asked to take in marine turtles from the Galapagos and the Seychelles, but he is adamant that the village is only for local land species. "There will never be more than the seven species of tortoise that are found in Senegal. I will not bring in any sensational species to attract tourists"

Five people are employed in the village, which also has accommodation for scientists and volunteers, including four volunteers from Europe currently working at Noflaye. "They write to me from abroad asking to come and work with us," says Diagne, "but there are so many, I have to turn them down."

The village aims to be fully self-financing within the first five years. "We now cover 70 per cent of our costs from entrance fees," the Rolex Associate Laureate says.

Diagne has been referred to as the "backbone" of the work to save the spurred tortoise. He is a member of IUCN’s Specialist Groups on Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles, and Marine Turtles. He is also responsible for the World Wildlife Fund’s African turtle work, coordinating field groups monitoring turtle nesting areas all over Africa.

But his interest in nature conservation goes far beyond tortoises. "People think that I am only interested in tortoises, but there is no one species that should take priority — it is the whole ecosystem that counts." Diagne, who describes himself as a "global naturalist", has received funding from the Total-Fina-Elf Foundation for a project to protect the mangroves of central Senegal and is preparing a project to save the baobab tree, Senegal’s national symbol.

Rolf Hogan
- See more at: http://www.rolexawards.com/profiles/associate_laureates/tomas_diagne/project#sthash.E8AzPRjn.dpuf
- See more at: http://www.rolexawards.com/profiles/associate_laureates/tomas_diagne#sthash.dBHHYwrk.dpuf

ProPilot Calibre 111

From ORIS 

Courtesy of ORIS
Featuring Oris's Calibre 111, a hand wound, single barrel movement boasting TEN days of power reserve!

Hours, minutes, seconds, date (at 9 o'clock) and power reserve (at 3 o'clock).

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 Ref. No. 111 7711 4163, Ø 44.00mm
  • Calibre 111, movement fully developed by Oris
  • Hand-wound, 3hz, 21,600vph, single barrel
  • 10-day power reserve, patented non-linear power reserve indication at 3
    o’clock and small seconds and date at 9 o’clock
  • Multi-piece satin-finished stainless steel case and screw-in stainless steel
    crown. Water resistant to 10 bar/100m
  • Sapphire crystal top glass with anti-reflective coating inside
  • Anthracite dial with applied Arabic numerals Super-LumiNova®, hour and
    minute hands with Super-LumiNova® inlay




Saturday, June 27, 2015

Rolex Awards for Enterprise - Saving Amur Tigers

It seems sometimes to go without saying - Rolex does pretty much everything right. When I was working for Tourneau in San Francisco I remember a coworker asking the Rolex rep at the time:

"What is Rolex's secret? What is the one thing that they do better than anyone else?"

The representative smiled and said:

"It's not that we do one thing well, we do everything well."

And when I think about charitable initiatives and what I would call - "the right way" to do something, it would seem that this sales manager was right -  Rolex sets the standard.


The Rolex Awards for Enterprise are perhaps the very best example of not just giving a prize, or
money and walking away, but creating something that fosters, nurtures and empowers people around the world to do AMAZING things.

So I will be sharing with you on a regular basis the stories of past winners of the Award for Enterprise and (as best I can) update you on how these folks are continuing to work to change the world for the better.

So let's kick it off with Sergei Bereznuk - the 2012 Laureate for the Environment category -

In the words of the folks at the Rolex Award for Enterprise:
A courageous man who believes that conserving the Amur tiger is possible through extended collaboration, awareness raising and education, Sergei Bereznuk has made his mark on the Russian Far East Province, the region where he was born.
Courtesy of Rolex
Bereznuk received a degree in engineering from Vladivostok’s polytechnic institute in 1982 before beginning work in the import-export sector. The upheavals in the Soviet Union forced him to rethink his career and, in the mid-1990s, he focused his longstanding love for the natural world on the challenge of saving the Amur tiger. He served as deputy director of Inspection Tiger, an anti-poaching group, from 1995 to 1999, before joining the Phoenix Fund and becoming its director the following year. Under his leadership, the organization has grown into a leading conservation NGO in Primorye province.


And here is a video on the project and  description courtesy of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise:
Race to save the Siberian tiger
It is one of the world’s most recognizable animals, thanks to its striped coat, but the Siberian tiger, which once roamed Asia’s forests in thousands is in peril. Sergei Bereznuk is valiantly battling poachers and public opinion to save the biggest of the cats. 

The tiger has a powerful grip on the human psyche, symbolizing a potent energy and the power of kings. But, in spite of this infatuation, this charismatic species is endangered – because of human rapacity and ignorance.

Just over 100 years ago, the global population of tigers in the wild was 100,000; today only about 3,500 survive, and the species’ prospects are grim. According to the conservation agency, World Wildlife Fund, three tiger subspecies – the Bali, Javan and Caspian – have become extinct in the past 70 years. The six remaining subspecies – Amur, Bengal, Indochinese, Malayan, South China and Sumatran – live only in Asia, and all are threatened by poaching and habitat loss.

In recent decades, a host of organizations and individuals have taken a stand to halt the tiger’s extinction. Celebrity champions, including film stars and supermodels, donated US$1 million to a 2010 summit for representatives of the 13 countries where the tiger still lives wild.

But one of the tiger’s staunchest defenders is little known outside tiger conservation circles and the far east of the Russian Federation, where he lives. Sergei Bereznuk, 52, is battling poachers, hunters, planning schemes and forest loggers, as well as negative attitudes and extremes of climate, to save the Amur tiger (Panthera tigris altaica) and its habitat. Also known as the Siberian tiger, the subspecies is the biggest felid on Earth, weighing an average 200 kg and measuring about 2 m in length – 3 m if the tail is added. Russia’s Far East is home to 95 per cent of the remaining global population of this subspecies.

Thanks to Bereznuk’s tenacity and inventiveness, the recent history of the Amur tiger provides a glimmer of hope – the possibility that this tiger can survive.

Bereznuk’s first notion of a tiger is taken from a universal source, known to generations of children worldwide – growing up in Novosibirsk, Siberia, a region with no wild tigers, he read Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book, famous for its story of the menacing tiger that abducts a little boy, Mowgli.

Thirty years later, Bereznuk, an engineer working in import-export, was forced to rethink his career due to the break-up of the Soviet Union. He found employment as deputy chief of Inspection Tiger, a department of the environmental authority of Russia’s Primorsky Krai (Maritime Province) region. In this new job, in the 1990s, his attitude to tigers and to conservation underwent a radical transformation. It was a turning point for Bereznuk: “From that moment on I decided to dedicate my life to nature and tiger conservation.”

An iconic catIn 2000, he won the perfect job. He was appointed director of the Phoenix Fund which had been set up two years earlier by foreign conservation organizations and Russian environmentalists to conserve the rich fauna and flora of the Russian Far East, in particular the Amur tiger and Amur leopard, another iconic cat at risk of extinction. In the 12 years that Bereznuk has run the Phoenix Fund, he has won deep respect from leaders of wildlife organizations in Europe and North America.

The main threats to the Amur tiger’s survival are poaching and habitat destruction. Bereznuk is fighting these obstacles with a winning combination of teamwork and government lobbying, new technology and awareness-raising.

As they criss-cross the Primorsky Krai region, an area four times as big as Switzerland, encountering heavy snowfalls and, in some regions, winter temperatures as low as -40C, the rangers gather information about tiger movements and the strategies of those who harm these elusive animals. They focus on four protected areas that are the main habitat for the Amur tiger. Phoenix workers have, thanks to the assistance of conservation agencies all over the world, equipped underpaid government rangers with a spatial management information system – known as MIST – to gather data on animals and poachers, as well as on law-enforcement, improving the rangers’ ability to confront poachers.

Sadly, the poachers embrace all levels of society, from the struggling poor to the rich. Criminals involved in targeted hunting and the purchase of poached wildlife pose a serious menace. Bereznuk recounts that four years ago one gang arranged for a revenge attack on a wildlife ranger from one of the four nature reserves. The assailants have not been apprehended, but “it was clear enough” that a rich businessman from the port of Nakhodka was behind that crime.

The rich hunt the thrill of the sport – sometimes accompanied by corrupt environmental law officers who guarantee their safety. Poaching is also carried out by poor villagers and by people who make a living from killing tigers, bears and other animals and then selling parts to cafés and restaurants. A tiger skin would bring more than an average year’s salary in the province, one of the poorer regions of Russia. And, despite some success in shutting down smuggling for the Chinese traditional medicine market, which attributes almost magical properties to every part of the tiger’s anatomy, it still excites much criminal activity and constitutes a major threat.

Corruption is one of the many problems that Bereznuk faces. The laws are flouted even at the highest of levels. As recently as the late 1990s, a former governor of the province presented a tiger skin to President Lukashenko of Belarus who was on an official visit. “This was a clear violation of Russian and international law,” says Bereznuk. But, despite an official inquiry, procrastination meant the statute of limitations could be applied and no action taken.

Fortunately, many other interventions have been successful. Bereznuk lobbies forcefully for action against illegal logging and to halt development that threatens the tiger’s habitat. In 2006, he protested against a Russian government, multimillion-dollar plan to build an oil pipeline across one of the natural reserves that are home to the endangered Amur tigers and Amur leopards. “We succeeded in ensuring the project designers rerouted the oil pipeline – they chose an alternative location of the terminal 200 km eastward from its initial plan.”

Battling poachers

As well as battling poachers and developers, Bereznuk is fighting negative attitudes. Devising imaginative material for kindergartens and schools, along with supporting Vladivostok’s annual Tiger Day festival, he is determined to ensure that future generations will value the tiger as much as he does. “The children here love tigers, and adults now see the tiger as a symbol of Primorsky Krai. The province and the tiger are inseparably linked.”

The Amur has come perilously close to disappearing from the province – in the 1940s, the tiger population dipped to a mere 30. The numbers fell again in the 1990s, but are now stable at 450 to 480, thanks in large part to Bereznuk and his colleagues.

The battle to save the Amur tiger is a long-term project and, with even a temporary drop in vigilance, it could disappear, like the three other subspecies.

With his Rolex Award, Bereznuk is developing materials to educate young Russians about the tiger, supplying rangers and environmental officers with equipment, fuel for their vehicles, bonuses to enhance their low pay, and, most of all, the information necessary to protect the animals and apprehend the poachers. Finally, he is lobbying all levels of government to reduce corruption and strengthen laws and development guidelines to protect Primorsky Krai’s flora and fauna.

“Russia was the first country in the world to ban the hunting of tigers, in 1947,” he points out. He hopes that that model inspires his nation to be the world’s greatest champion of the tiger.
Edmund Doogue 
- See more at: http://www.rolexawards.com/profiles/laureates/sergei_bereznuk/project#sthash.5DsDrFq0.dpuf
I thought I'd let the Phoenix Fund tell you about themselves in their own words:
Phoenix is a mythological bird, which rises anew from its own ashs after death, a symbol of everlasting revival. We, the Phoenix staff, strive constantly to revive our environment and conserve the unique natural heritage of the Russian Far East.
The Phoenix team is a successful blend of talented, committed specialists with life-long experience in law enforcement and/or environmental education and outreach; and younger enthusiasts who promote and advance team projects. In 2006 Sergei Bereznuk, director of the Phoenix Fund, received a prestigious Whitley Award for Nature for outstanding achievements in his nature conservation work. In June 2012, Sergei Bereznuk became a winner of Rolex Global Awards for Enterprise for his achievements and innovations in tiger conservation.
With a combination of backgrounds in education, law enforcement, public relations, ecology, and biology, the Phoenix Fund team collectively brings unique strength and insight to its mission to protect and halt the poaching and illegal trafficking of the endangered wildlife of the Russian Far East.
Phoenix is a member of the Amur Leopard and Tiger Alliance  (ALTA). ALTA is a unique alliance of Russian and western conservation organizations aiming to secure a future for wild Amur leopards and tigers in the Russian Far East and Northeast China. ALTA members include:
1) 21st Century Tiger,
2) AMUR,
3) David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation (DSWF),
4) Helsinki Zoo,
5) International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW),
6) Moscow Zoo,
7) Tigris Foundation,
8) Phoenix Fund,
9) Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS),
10) Wildlife Vets International (WVI),
11) Zoological Society of London (ZSL),
12) Wildlife Alliance,
13) Minnesota Zoo,
14) Fondation Segre,
15) Dreamworld.

He and his team are still out there, putting themselves on the line every day, teaching, working and never giving up in their efforts to conserve the Amur Tiger.

So instead of slapping watches on the wrists of athletes, starlets and rock stars, maybe brands could take a page from Rolex's book and create something that will:

1. Raise awareness for global issues

2. Recognize those out there working to address and resolve these issues

3. Get a nice bit of tasteful (and dare I say), classy public relations out of it



Friday, June 26, 2015

In Honor of Five Years

As much as I would have liked to have had a "Tempus Fugit Fifth Anniversary" special piece, I think that looking back on some of Patek Philippe's commemorative pieces should be just as enjoyable ; )
Courtesy of Patek Philippe

This piece is from 1997 and commemorates the Inauguration of Plan-les-Ouates workshops - the 
REF. 5500 Pagoda.

Per Patek Philippe:

The edition was limited to 1,100 pieces in 18k yellow gold, with a gold dial; 500 in 18k rose gold, with silvered dial; 250 in 18k white gold, with salmon-colored dial; and 150 in platinum, with black dial.

The REF. 5500 Pagoda was equipped with the manually wound caliber 215 with a Gyromax® balance.

And that's not all!  Again, per Patek Philippe:

For the first time in watchmaking history, Switzerland’s official chronometer certification bureau the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) and the Geneva Seal Authority join together to issue a new exclusive individual rating certificate for the men’s Pagoda. This unique certificate is created for Patek Philippe to acknowledge and officially recognize the exceptional quality, precision, and excellence of the company’s craftsmanship.
With an alligator strap, a buckle shaped like the top of a pagoda, and a back case engraving with the commemorative year – 1997 – and the word “pagoda”, the watch is accompanied by a silver commemorative coin, and delivered in an oriental-style presentation box.
REF. 5500: Caliber 215 PS manual-winding mechanical movement. Movement diameter: 21.5 mm, and height: 2.5 mm. Hours, minutes, seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Number of parts: 130. Case dimensions: Width: 29.2 mm. Length: 40.8 mm. Height: 11.6 mm.
Yeah, that would do!




Thursday, June 25, 2015

Five Years - Tempus Fugit!

Well, I looked at the calendar and suddenly realized that tomorrow will mark five years of Tempus Fugit.

A very big thank you to the watch makers, watch brands, PR People, faithful supportive readers and even the not so supportive readers!


It has been a log of fun, and let's see what the next five years bring!



TEMPUS FUGIT!

The Sir John Franklin Set

From Arnold & Son

Courtesy of Arnold & Son
This collection of three pieces comprises the latest addition to Arnold & Son's Instrument Collection.

The dial of each watch has been writ large with an image from London's National Maritime Museum.  The paintings represent different events in the history of the HMS Terror and HMS Erebus.  These vessels were sacrifice to John Franklin's ill fated search for the North-West Passage.

Courtesy of Arnold & Son
 The dials are of mother-of-pearl featuring an off-set hour and minute "inner dial" at 9 o'clock.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
The main of the dial is dedicated to a true beat seconds function.

Courtesy of Arnold & Son
The case is rose gold and measures 44 mm in diameter.  Limited to 28 sets.

Here are the details -

Calibre: 
A&S6103

Arnold & Son manufacture movement, self-winding, ceramic ball bearing, 30 jewels, diameter 30.4 mm, thickness 7.79 mm, power reserve 50 h, 28’800 vibrations/h, stop seconds

Functions:
hours, minutes, true beat seconds

Movement decoration:
rhodium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered
bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève
rayonnantes, brushed and skeletonised oscillating weight, blued screws
with bevelled and mirror-polished heads


Dial:
hand-finished miniature, mother-of-pearl

Case:
18-carat rose gold, diameter 44 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water-resistant to 30 m

Strap:
hand-stitched brown alligator leather

Limited edition:
28 sets of 3 timepieces 


Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Type 1 V Genesis

From Ressence -

Courtesy of Ressence
I will always remember BaselWorld 2011 and the first time I met Benoît Mintiens.

I can honestly say without hesitation that the watch industry is full of a lot of shits.  I can also honestly say that Benoît Mintiens is one of the nicest, most sincere people you will ever meet in ANY industry.  What has always struck me about him is his humility and his sincerity.  I make two points at every BaselWorld: 

First day, appointment or no, go by and say hello.  Shake hands, chat.

Any other day when things aren't going well, I'm feeling sorry for myself, I walk past the Ressence stand, and if Benoît Mintiens claps eyes on me, he waves, he smiles, and frankly I just feel SO MUCH BETTER.

I know that this is supposed to be about his latest creation - but for me it is very, very difficult to separate the man from his creations.  Let's just say that we need more people like Benoît Mintiens out there ; )

And owing to the incredibly high esteem I hold him and his work, I am going to present you with the press release just as I received it.

Courtesy of Ressence
INTRODUCING THE TYPE 1 V GENESIS
Every now and then an industry undergoes a paradigm shift, thanks to a new technology perhaps, a new consumer or a new attitude. The Swiss watch industry is seeing that now - with the birth of a culture of original ideas and independent watchmakers, of which Ressence is part.
Ressence represents a new way of thinking about fine mechanical watches - no less expertly hand- crafted, but with an industrial design philosophy that seeks to be progressive and a clear, graphic aesthetic that is decidedly 21st century.

Indeed, the new Type 1 V Genesis is the first time the young, innovative company has ever looked back - it's an edition of just five pieces to celebrate Ressence's fifth birthday. That might seem overly self-confident, even for a dynamic horological start-up with an attitude more at home in Silicon Valley than La Chaux-de-Fonds.
But naturally this is no re-issue from the archives. Some, in fact, might say the Genesis hasn't even been finished. And they would be right - the Genesis's exterior components aren't smooth and polished, giving the piece a directness and integrity. It's an expression rather of Ressence's being a work in progress towards a fresh kind of fine watchmaking.

Instead, the Genesis's parts are used as they come off the production line, much as Ressence's earliest prototype watches were made - but then those were made by the space industry and not by watch manufacturers. The hands are galvanised to add contrast, but that's all. The barenia calf leather strap is untreated, so will mark and change colour naturally. The case still shows the scars of the milling process. The dial is sandblasted but otherwise left in its raw state - the indices aren’t filled up with Superluminova, bringing too a sense of depth. 

Courtesy of Ressence

A NEW APPROACH
Instead, what really lights up this special Ressence timepiece is the original thinking behind it. Or rather, the re-thinking that comes with a different perspective. As its founder Benoît Mintiens puts it, "I want the watch to be de-materialised, to express time in its purest possible way".

The watch has no crown, for example, the winding/setting mechanism being the case-back itself, for better ergonomics and allowing a left-right fit. It is all tactile curves, the domed sapphire glass extending to the very edge of the case - making the watch more sapphire than metal, in fact - the lugs seemingly part of the case too, an organic whole. And that's no illusion - lugs and case are milled in one action from the same grade 5 titanium block.

But, most strikingly, and characteristic of Ressence, is the lack of conventional hands. Here the time is displayed via its patented, 107-part Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS1) - a complex mechanism driving convex sub-discs that continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set, like moons in orbit around a planet.

This allows the curved dial to be set closer to the sapphire glass, which gives a sense of immediacy to the look and aids legibility. It also means that the watch's uncluttered face is ever-changing - as everything is in time.
For all its seeming simplicity, it can transfix. It's all about the experience - not an obsession with little cogs and wheels. Indeed, rather than being proudly displayed, the sophisticated mechanics of the operation are hidden away beneath a smooth surface. But, as with all Ressence does, still waters run deep. 


Courtesy of Ressence


RESSENCE #BEYOND HANDS
Outsiders have the freedom to think differently. Benoît Mintiens may be Belgian, but he is more distanced from traditional Swiss watchmaking than that - primarily by being an industrial designer who designed trains, aircraft cabins, leather goods and even hunting guns before he ever designed a watch.

He launched Ressence in 2010, driven by his professional background. Benoît Mintiens puts the emphasis on concrete product creativity rather than on branding. "Industrial designers work from the outside to the inside," he says. "They start in the user's brain to define the specifications of the watch and end up designing the movement as a means and not as goal in itself."

But Benoît Mintiens is not a provocateur - he admires fine-watchmaking. Indeed, while embodying the tenets and skills of Swiss fine watchmaking - watches are designed in Antwerp and made in Switzerland - Ressence’s watches are very much understated without being stark. They are as pure as design should be: functional, not flashy and accessible, both in style and relative price.

Its symbolic hand logo suggests as much, open, intuitive, inviting, human, enquiring.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds and day of the week CASE: Titanium grade 5
Domed sapphire crystals top and bottom with both sides anti-reflective coating
42mm (diameter) x 13mm (thickness)
1 ATM water-resistance

DIAL: Convex nickel silver dial (125mm radius) with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° (hours) and 4,75° (seconds and day of the
week)
Engraved indications
MOVEMENT: Patented ROCS1 (Ressence Orbital Convex System)

Crownless winding and date/time setting mechanism Self-winding
36 hours power reserve
28,800 vibrations per hour

53 jewels - 27 gears
BUCKLE: 20mm, double folding clasp titanium grade 5

STRAP: Barenia calf leather COMPONENTS: 208
PRICE: 18.750 EUR (excl. VAT) PRODUCTION: Limited to 5 numbered pieces 


Klassik Midsize

From Archimede

Courtesy of Archimede
36 mm in diameter with hours, minutes and seconds.  Stainless steel case, display back and powered by what Archimede refers to as a Citizen (I assume, therefore,  Miyota) movement with a nicely decorated movement -

Courtesy of Archived
For a time there was what I can only call a bit of brand confusion between the various Ickler owned brands.  I am pleased to see that Archimede in particular has truly developed into a well-balanced and easily recognized brand.  And their new Klassik Midsize bears that out.  Well done!

Considering the price point - 595 Euros, 500 Euros without VAT, this is a fine watch at a great value.

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

El Primero Sport

Courtesy of Zenith
It is a pretty neat offering from Zenith -

As pictures often speak louder than words, here are the details:

EL PRIMERO SPORT

·       EL PRIMERO AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH – 36,000 VIBRATIONS/HOUR
·       WATER-RESISTANT TO 200 METRES
·       SCREWED-IN PUSHPIECES
·       TACHOMETRIC SCALE


MOVEMENT
El Primero 400 B, automatic
Calibre: 13¼‘‘‘ (diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness: 6.60 mm
Components: 326
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 vph – (5 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishing: oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

FUNCTIONS
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date window at 6 o’clock
Chronograph accurate to the nearest
1/10 th of a second
• 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
• 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
• Central chronograph seconds hand
• Tachometric scale



CASE, DIAL AND HANDS
Material: steel
Diameter: 45 mm
Opening diameter: 39.70 mm
Glass: domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 20 ATM
Dial: lamé silver-toned or slate grey
Hour-markers: rhodium-finished, facetted and coated with Superluminova SLN C1
Hands: rhodium-finished, facetted and coated with Superluminova SLN C1

STRAPS/BRACELET AND CLASP
Brown alligator leather strap (with protective rubber lining), rubber strap, or metal bracelet
Steel triple folding clasp