 |
| Courtesy of LINDE WERDELIN |
www.LindeWerdelin.com
Thursday, June 30, 2011
LINDE WERDELIN wants to know - Can you spot the difference?
www.LindeWerdelin.com
It's the spring that's the thing
Perhaps my all-time favorite movie is Wall Street. Of course we all remember Gordon Gecko's infamous "Greed is good". But another often forgotten question was asked by Bud Fox - "How much is enough? How many yachts can you water-ski behind?"
It goes without saying that the Swiss watch industry owes its existence today to the SWATCH group, and most specifically to Mr. Hayek. But now it seems that the watch industry is at a tipping point. For several years, SWATCH has stated that they will stop selling movements (ebauches), and everyone panicked - several companies started making their own plans for movements - and others looked for other alternatives. One particularly noted move was the "in house movement" of a well-known Swiss company who was less than forthcoming about the Japanese origins of its new chronograph movement until it was called out.
And from the sidelines, I can certainly understand what Mr. Hayek meant in his Watch Time interview where he stated that the goal was, in fact, to force watch companies to actually make watches and not merely assemble "kits" and slap on their name to a dial. All of this made sense. But now it seems that the folks at SWATCH are pushing some different buttons - or maybe to put it more aptly, they are tugging on springs.
Nivarox is owned by SWATCH. Nivarox also has a near strangle-hold on the balance spring supply. And the word around the campfires of Switzerland and Germany is that they are intending to not sell this particularly vital part outside of the SWATCH Group. Not unlike your local utility company refusing to sell you electricity - it is that vital, and Nivarox have an undisputed monopoly. Of course this would not include the "special friends" of SWATCH, but this move would obviously destroy quite a few brands and create a fairly large unemployment problem. And while they cannot do this outright - i.e. stop selling completely, what they are seemingly doing is slowly starving companies of this essential part. Put another way - what good is your own movement without the spring?
What is the real intent here? As I write this, I have several watches looking at me - a few SWATCH Group items, and several from "Outside". My suspicion is that this is hopefully just another case of saber rattling, but again - to what purpose really? This would be like Standard Oil refusing to sell oil outside of Ohio. Movements, ebauches - this I get and I think deep down most folks do. But springs? Come on SWATCH Group - how much is enough?
It goes without saying that the Swiss watch industry owes its existence today to the SWATCH group, and most specifically to Mr. Hayek. But now it seems that the watch industry is at a tipping point. For several years, SWATCH has stated that they will stop selling movements (ebauches), and everyone panicked - several companies started making their own plans for movements - and others looked for other alternatives. One particularly noted move was the "in house movement" of a well-known Swiss company who was less than forthcoming about the Japanese origins of its new chronograph movement until it was called out.
And from the sidelines, I can certainly understand what Mr. Hayek meant in his Watch Time interview where he stated that the goal was, in fact, to force watch companies to actually make watches and not merely assemble "kits" and slap on their name to a dial. All of this made sense. But now it seems that the folks at SWATCH are pushing some different buttons - or maybe to put it more aptly, they are tugging on springs.
Nivarox is owned by SWATCH. Nivarox also has a near strangle-hold on the balance spring supply. And the word around the campfires of Switzerland and Germany is that they are intending to not sell this particularly vital part outside of the SWATCH Group. Not unlike your local utility company refusing to sell you electricity - it is that vital, and Nivarox have an undisputed monopoly. Of course this would not include the "special friends" of SWATCH, but this move would obviously destroy quite a few brands and create a fairly large unemployment problem. And while they cannot do this outright - i.e. stop selling completely, what they are seemingly doing is slowly starving companies of this essential part. Put another way - what good is your own movement without the spring?
What is the real intent here? As I write this, I have several watches looking at me - a few SWATCH Group items, and several from "Outside". My suspicion is that this is hopefully just another case of saber rattling, but again - to what purpose really? This would be like Standard Oil refusing to sell oil outside of Ohio. Movements, ebauches - this I get and I think deep down most folks do. But springs? Come on SWATCH Group - how much is enough?
Eberhard Chrono 4 Geant - 00/24's Readers Award
 |
| Courtesy of Eberhard |
Congratulations to one and all at Eberhard!
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Mosquitos - the good kind!
Every Bremont watch has a story or inspiration, and the ALT1-C is no exception!
The dial of the ALT1-C certainly bears more than just a passing resemblance to the fuel gauge of the
Mosquito airplane
This strikes the perfect balance for a two-register chronograph, and Bremont has packaged a wonderful historical homage with a top-shelf chronograph. And for those who are interested, still the same time rate!
So for those of you not up on your British aviation history, the de Havilland DH.98 Mosquito was used by the British during World War II.
Here is more information from the nice folks at Wikipedia -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Havilland_Mosquito
More this evening - stay tuned.
Mosquito airplane
 |
| Courtesy of Bremont |
So for those of you not up on your British aviation history, the de Havilland DH.98 Mosquito was used by the British during World War II.
Here is more information from the nice folks at Wikipedia -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Havilland_Mosquito
More this evening - stay tuned.
An announcement -
This just released today -
JOINT PRESS RELEASE from F.A. Porsche Beteiligungen GmbH and International Volant Limited
Today, International Volant Limited, a wholly-owned subsidiary of China Haidian, has
acquired all shares in ETERNA AG Uhrenfabrik, Grenchen, from F.A. Porsche Beteiligungen GmbH.
ETERNA AG is one of the premium manufacturers of watches, components of
watches, clockwork, electronic precision time measuring devices and its components. Oliver Porsche, managing director of F.A. Porsche Beteiligungen GmbH, says that he is very confident that the new owner will continue the determined path ETERNA AG has begun to follow and will further strengthen ETERNA AG’s position as one of the premium manufacturers of watches.
Mr. Hon Kwok Lung, chairman of the buyer, International Volant Limited, states that this acquisition is an important step in the strategy of China Haidian to continue its sustainable development in Mainland China and overseas. "We believe that mechanical watch movements will more and more become a limiting factor in the industry; therefore, ETERNA AG, as being able to manufacture its own mechanical movements, is a decisive addition to the group’s portfolio", Hon Kwok Lung added.
The parties have agreed to keep the details of the transaction strictly confidential.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
A Few Minutes with Michael Kobold
James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?
Michael Kobold - My very first watch was a Swatch. I was seven years old, my family was aboard a Lufthansa flight en-route to San Francisco, which was the starting point for a summer-long tour of the Pacific Northwest. My parents surprised me with this very simple black Swatch with a white dial. I loved that watch and it lasted several years until one day our family dog chewed it to bits and pieces.
JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?
MK - My childhood ambitions were simple. I wished to day be a race car driver. To this end, my uncle Hans-Peter presented me with a super-fast go-cart on my tenth birthday. This gift, too, ended up in bits and pieces after a few years, owing to my mechanical curiosity and unsupervised use of my dad's tool box.
JH - Where did you go to school, what did you study?
MK - After graduating from the Frankfurt International School (FIS) in Oberursel, Germany, my family sent me to Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh, where I studied economics. At first, Pittsburgh wasn't my favorite place in the world, because for young people there really isn't a lot to do. But in time I grew to love it and decided to maintain a base there after graduating from university.
JH - How did you get started in the watch industry?
MK - During my time at FIS I had befriended Gerd-R. Lang of Chronoswiss, the Munich-based watch company. We just got a long and I always admired him for his style, both design-wise and in business. He was the perfect mentor and with a lot of patience endured many endless question-and-answer sessions, during which I learned more than I ever learned at university. If I had to pick a time in my young life that I enjoyed the most, I would have to say it was the time I spent with Gerd-R. Lang.
JH - Although Carnegie Melon is a world-class university, Pittsburgh is not at the top of most people's list of destinations, and now with more than a few years of success under your belt, why stay there?
MK - Relationships. When I started the Kobold Watch Company, it was only a class project in Professor Jack Roseman's entrepreneurship class. When I submitted my business plan, Professor Roseman shook his head and said it would never work because it was "just a hobby." To this day, Professor Roseman serves as an advisor to me and to the company, and like him I have several other Pittsburgh-based friends who are instrumental in the success of Kobold watches. Thus, I have decided to keep the company in this region.
JH - So now a few years on, ever wake up in the middle of the night in cold sweats?
MK - Yes, when I think I forgot to turn on the alarm system at home. Before I had a daughter, I never had an alarm and I often didn't even lock the front door. Now we have an alarm system, two dogs, and two Sherpas from Nepal to keep Victoria safe.
JH - Did you ever consider doing something else?
MK - Before I started the watch company, I used to be an assistant instructor for tactical driving courses. That was my platform to entering the motorsports field. But Mr. Lang's suggestion to start a watch company as part of my university studies put a stop to that pretty quickly. There is also something to be said for chocolate-making. I have often toyed with the idea of manufacturing really good chocolate. But since eating chocolate is something I love, that would be counter-productive from a health standpoint!
JH - What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced with Kobold?
MK - The hardest thing has been to convince people abroad that American-made does not equal shoddy quality and poor craftsmanship. We make better watches than a lot of our foreign competitors and we use mostly U.S.-made parts. We control that quality very carefully and I certainly would not put my name on the dial of an inferior product.
JH - Realizing that it is difficult, but do you have a favorite "child" when it comes to what you have designed?
MK - There are times when I prefer one watch over another, but that changes and a few months later I might prefer the other one again.
JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?
MK - Chronoswiss makes amazing watches, Omega is reinventing itself and has come out with some incredible pieces, and I admire Vacheron Constantin a lot for what they've done. In the States, the only company other than Kobold that has done a good job is RGM... I am proud of Roland Murphy for his tourbillon, even though I had nothing to do with it. He is to be commended for sticking with his guns.
JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?
MK - For the last few years I have been trying to finish writing a book and I hope soon I'll be able to take some time off again and concentrate on bringing that long process to an end. I enjoy writing, but life often gets in the way.
JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Michael Kobold?
MK - Customer service still takes up a lot of time, luckily. There was a period when I was more removed from the customer service end and I detested it. It felt alienating. Then there is all the legwork involved in creating a new timepiece, which is fun and very rewarding. Expedition planning also takes up a fair chunk of my day and at the moment Ran Fiennes is working on a new endeavor that is both exciting and unique, but I can't give out details yet. The Kobold motto is Embrace Adventure and I try to live by that mantra as much as possible.
 |
| Courtesy of Kobold |
Michael Kobold - My very first watch was a Swatch. I was seven years old, my family was aboard a Lufthansa flight en-route to San Francisco, which was the starting point for a summer-long tour of the Pacific Northwest. My parents surprised me with this very simple black Swatch with a white dial. I loved that watch and it lasted several years until one day our family dog chewed it to bits and pieces.
JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?
MK - My childhood ambitions were simple. I wished to day be a race car driver. To this end, my uncle Hans-Peter presented me with a super-fast go-cart on my tenth birthday. This gift, too, ended up in bits and pieces after a few years, owing to my mechanical curiosity and unsupervised use of my dad's tool box.
JH - Where did you go to school, what did you study?
MK - After graduating from the Frankfurt International School (FIS) in Oberursel, Germany, my family sent me to Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh, where I studied economics. At first, Pittsburgh wasn't my favorite place in the world, because for young people there really isn't a lot to do. But in time I grew to love it and decided to maintain a base there after graduating from university.
JH - How did you get started in the watch industry?
MK - During my time at FIS I had befriended Gerd-R. Lang of Chronoswiss, the Munich-based watch company. We just got a long and I always admired him for his style, both design-wise and in business. He was the perfect mentor and with a lot of patience endured many endless question-and-answer sessions, during which I learned more than I ever learned at university. If I had to pick a time in my young life that I enjoyed the most, I would have to say it was the time I spent with Gerd-R. Lang.
JH - Although Carnegie Melon is a world-class university, Pittsburgh is not at the top of most people's list of destinations, and now with more than a few years of success under your belt, why stay there?
MK - Relationships. When I started the Kobold Watch Company, it was only a class project in Professor Jack Roseman's entrepreneurship class. When I submitted my business plan, Professor Roseman shook his head and said it would never work because it was "just a hobby." To this day, Professor Roseman serves as an advisor to me and to the company, and like him I have several other Pittsburgh-based friends who are instrumental in the success of Kobold watches. Thus, I have decided to keep the company in this region.
JH - So now a few years on, ever wake up in the middle of the night in cold sweats?
MK - Yes, when I think I forgot to turn on the alarm system at home. Before I had a daughter, I never had an alarm and I often didn't even lock the front door. Now we have an alarm system, two dogs, and two Sherpas from Nepal to keep Victoria safe.
JH - Did you ever consider doing something else?
MK - Before I started the watch company, I used to be an assistant instructor for tactical driving courses. That was my platform to entering the motorsports field. But Mr. Lang's suggestion to start a watch company as part of my university studies put a stop to that pretty quickly. There is also something to be said for chocolate-making. I have often toyed with the idea of manufacturing really good chocolate. But since eating chocolate is something I love, that would be counter-productive from a health standpoint!
JH - What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced with Kobold?
MK - The hardest thing has been to convince people abroad that American-made does not equal shoddy quality and poor craftsmanship. We make better watches than a lot of our foreign competitors and we use mostly U.S.-made parts. We control that quality very carefully and I certainly would not put my name on the dial of an inferior product.
JH - Realizing that it is difficult, but do you have a favorite "child" when it comes to what you have designed?
MK - There are times when I prefer one watch over another, but that changes and a few months later I might prefer the other one again.
JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?
MK - Chronoswiss makes amazing watches, Omega is reinventing itself and has come out with some incredible pieces, and I admire Vacheron Constantin a lot for what they've done. In the States, the only company other than Kobold that has done a good job is RGM... I am proud of Roland Murphy for his tourbillon, even though I had nothing to do with it. He is to be commended for sticking with his guns.
 |
| Courtesy of Kobold |
JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?
MK - For the last few years I have been trying to finish writing a book and I hope soon I'll be able to take some time off again and concentrate on bringing that long process to an end. I enjoy writing, but life often gets in the way.
JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Michael Kobold?
MK - Customer service still takes up a lot of time, luckily. There was a period when I was more removed from the customer service end and I detested it. It felt alienating. Then there is all the legwork involved in creating a new timepiece, which is fun and very rewarding. Expedition planning also takes up a fair chunk of my day and at the moment Ran Fiennes is working on a new endeavor that is both exciting and unique, but I can't give out details yet. The Kobold motto is Embrace Adventure and I try to live by that mantra as much as possible.
Horsepower
So with a little less than a week to go, and vacation officially over, it is time to get back to it. One of the first things that really strikes you when you look at the Bremont ALT1-C on a whole is the attention to detail in the finishing of the movement.
For most companies, simply etching or engraving the name on the rotor would be sufficient, but not so for Bremont. The level of detail of finish work that goes into just the rotor is impressive. The amount of polishing and detail - and not to mention the blued screws! Watch companies will often put a display back on simply because that is what everyone else is doing. They do not pay nearly the same level of attention to the details as Bremont has with the ALT1-C. I look at the rotor, and I see a propeller! Many watches have tried to get this effect, but Bremont has clearly captured not just the look, but the feeling of flight.
But this movement is more than just nice looking - it is highly functional. The watch has maintained a very high level of accuracy, and the chronograph functions have performed flawlessly. A little timing test is coming up - stay tuned.
But this movement is more than just nice looking - it is highly functional. The watch has maintained a very high level of accuracy, and the chronograph functions have performed flawlessly. A little timing test is coming up - stay tuned.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Random watches in Portland
On my last day in the Rose City, I was able to snap a few pictures of random watches -
This was on the wrist of one of Wendy's colleagues. A whole lot of fun on the wrist.
 |
| Nixon |
This Fendi was on the wrist of a Japanese photographer who was visiting in Portland - Wendy and I ran into her and her friend at the ACE Hotel -
You have GOT to check this place out!
This SWATCH was on the wrist of her traveling companion... proof positive that a cool watch does not have to cost a cool grand!
After a singularly great meal at the Brasserie Montmartre -
We dropped in at Public Domain where I had, without any doubt in my mind, the BEST espresso I have EVER had!
They prepare the espresso one at a time, and they serve it with a sparkling mineral water as a palate cleanser. The espresso itself is almost citrus like, with hints of chocolate - I say without fear of contradiction - it ROCKED my world!
I BEG YOU - if you are ever in Portland, check these places out!
Something new from Archimede
The ARCHIMEDE SportTaucher has earned a large following from all around the world, so ARCHIMEDE have introduced the new SportTaucher M with a solid stainless steel bezel.
 |
| Courtesy of Archimede |
Giving it a distinctly German look, this tough, individual 300m rated divers watch still has all the features of the original model 'A'.
 |
| Courtesy of Archimede |
The brushed stainless-steel 41.5mm case is only 12mm thick, making this not only a serious diving watch, but also comfortable for every day wear. The screw down crown at four o'clock carries the Archimede logo and underlines the SportTaucher's distinctive appearance. With sapphire crystal, proven Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement, and clearly readable dial this is a high specification watch.
 |
| Courtesy of Archimede |
Straps are available in either genuine sharkskin or rubber. A stainless steel bracelet with safety clasp and fold-out extension, to enable wearing it over a wetsuit, is also available.
 |
| Courtesy of Archimede |
The SportTaucher is available directly from ARCHIMEDE for US customers
www.archimede-uhren.de/US/
International customers
www.archimede-uhren.de/EN/
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Portland... continued
And then, we found it!
There was a bit of a panic on Friday, because I was informed that one of Voodoo's locations (i.e. the one near downtown) was closed for renovations - but as fortune would have it, they were having a "soft opening" on Friday afternoon - nothing better than a fist-full of sugary goodness. According to the ALT1-C my little glazed buddy lasted 3 minutes, 56 seconds - probably would have been faster if not stopping for this shot.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Portland...
A funny thing about living in Santa Barbara, go anywhere else, no matter how cool, beautiful, etc., you are inevitably going to be questioned as to why you would want to go to another place. I hear it nearly everywhere I go, with the exception of Portland - because I think they know exactly cool, beautiful and unique their city is.
So a week and a day into my 15 days with the ALT1-C, we took a walk around Stump Town.
First on the agenda was to get some breakfast. I was going to hold out for something sane, but then came across the Voodoo Doughnuts "Mobile Unit".
If you know anything about Portland legends, you will know about Voodoo Doughnuts. So I was willing to put health concerns aside and get a tasty sugary treat. But in fact, the "doughnut mobile" while open and serving was not "selling" donuts, rather they were giving them away to conference attendees who were in town to do good. And then I got to talking to this nice fellow and he hipped me to what Voodoo Doughnuts is doing with a group called Impact NW. What they do is train young people on job skills - searching, resume writing, interviews, etc., and then upon completing the program they are offered a position working for Voodoo Doughnuts so that they have something to put on that resume. Pretty cool deal!
Their website is: www.impactnw.org
And no, I was not attempting to trade the Bremont for a Doughnut - I promise! Having said that, this nice young man is in need of a watch ...
So move on I did, as Mr. Tummy was in need of fuel, and I came across what is perhaps one of the largest outdoor food courts I have ever seen. And there glistening in the on again/off again sunlight, like an oasis was -
This is Twisted Sisters - which specializes in Southern style breakfasts and lunches. I had the "Fried Chicken in a biscuit" - totally decadent, totally worth it!
And now adequately fortified, I was ready to go and look for some watches. And visiting one of Portland's best known retailers, I found this -
Yes - this is the McQueen. I apologize for the shaky photos, but I am normally not this close to a legend.
So for those of you with the means, you can purchase this amazing piece at Watchworks in Portland.
So a week and a day into my 15 days with the ALT1-C, we took a walk around Stump Town.
First on the agenda was to get some breakfast. I was going to hold out for something sane, but then came across the Voodoo Doughnuts "Mobile Unit".
Their website is: www.impactnw.org
And no, I was not attempting to trade the Bremont for a Doughnut - I promise! Having said that, this nice young man is in need of a watch ...
So move on I did, as Mr. Tummy was in need of fuel, and I came across what is perhaps one of the largest outdoor food courts I have ever seen. And there glistening in the on again/off again sunlight, like an oasis was -
And now adequately fortified, I was ready to go and look for some watches. And visiting one of Portland's best known retailers, I found this -
Thursday, June 23, 2011
A Few Minutes with Nick English
As I am spending the next week with the Bremont ALT1-C, I thought it might be good to catch up with the other half of the founding partnership. And now, a few minutes with Nick English -
 |
| Courtesy of Bremont |
Nick English - I remember my first ever watch being a very plastic swiss diving watch when I was about 8 years old - and I cannot even remember the make!. I loved it! The face was great and what was very cool for back then is that you could 'pop-out' inner watch case and put it in another case surround and strap. Red was certainly the colour I remember most!
JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?
JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?
NE - A fighter pilot - ideally a WWII fighter pilot, but I missed that(!)
JH - Where did you go to school, what did you study?
NE - I went to a school called Kimbolton near Cambridge in England. It was a quirky school in a big old castle. I enjoyed most of it and managed to get some good flying (gliding) in with the CCF, it had a great sailing team and a great workshop where you were allowed to go and make things out of wood and other materials. In England at school you have to study most subjects. I always remember being fairly bad at languages which my French-Canadian wife and French speaking kids find rather amusing. My French is still pretty horrendous!
JH - Neither you or your brother were previously in the watch industry, is that correct? What was the spark that motivated you to launch your own watch company?
JH - Neither you or your brother were previously in the watch industry, is that correct? What was the spark that motivated you to launch your own watch company?
NE - Our father was a huge inspiration to us. We spent the whole time making things with him in the workshop - including planes, boats, cars and restoring old clocks. He was an incredible engineer (an aeronautical engineer from Cambridge) and loved all things mechanical which we inherited. His love of flying and restoring old vintage aircraft was also passed down to Giles and myself, and we are still lucky enough to be flying this old planes. Our father died in 1995 in a plane crash whilst practicing for an air-display, and I broke around 25 bones (I was in the front seat). This changed our family's life and it was the tipping point for Giles and I. We realised very quickly that we wanted to do something we enjoyed doing. Life is short.
 |
| Courtesy of Bremont |
NE - It is great. I do all of the design, marketing, press, operation, finance, and he sweeps the workshop floor, carries watch boxes etc - it works well!! No seriously, we both do a bit of everything and I cannot think of a time when we have fought. We both share the same vision and same passions in life and so it makes working together very easy.
JH - Do you ever consider doing something else?
NE - Nothing work wise. Obviously there are a lot of things in life I am desperate to do, but work-wise , no.
JH - What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced in the launch and development of Bremont?
JH - Do you ever consider doing something else?
NE - Nothing work wise. Obviously there are a lot of things in life I am desperate to do, but work-wise , no.
JH - What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced in the launch and development of Bremont?
NE - To be honest, I think with any smaller brand like Bremont (especially when you are positioned alongside some of the finest brands in the industry on the shop floor), the challenge is competing with the big bucks of the large watch groups. For Bremont, it is all about people understanding what goes into the watches - the time, effort, ridiculous amounts of testing etc, and if you have a enormous marketing budget then this is relatively easy - you can almost buy you way in. We certainly have to be innovative in the way we get the message out there. A very satisfied customer is the best marketing you could ever have.
JH - Realizing that it is difficult, but do you have a favorite "child" when it comes to what Bremont has put out there?
JH - Realizing that it is difficult, but do you have a favorite "child" when it comes to what Bremont has put out there?
NE - The cream faced ALT1-C. It was the first watch that I wore and one of my pet designs. very simple and understated. For Giles I am sure he would say the black ALT1-P for the same reason. I also love my stainless steel U2 watch. The love wearing it knowing how much effort and testing has gone into its design and precision. This watch alone was the culmination of over 4 years testing with Martin -Baker (the pioneering ejection seat manufacturer). I love the simplicity of its dial. You will not get bored of this watch in 20 years time!
JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?
NE - I love what Peter Speke-Marin and Roger Smith are doing. They are both lovely chaps too.
JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?
JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?
NE - Restoring and flying vintage aircraft full time.
JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Nick English?
JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Nick English?
NE - That's a difficult one! The best way to answer that is perhaps tell you how today in panning out. Wake up just before 7a.m, make my three small children breakfast - usual mayhem trying to get two five year olds and a 4 year old out of the door. Off to work - have spent the morning tweaking some designs we have been working on, answering emails and designing new work-shop we will hopefully be moving into the coming months in the UK. Giles and I are ambassadors of the Royal Navy Historic Flight and we have an event later today down at the Yeovilton military base. Heading off there in a bit in the Bremont 'Bus' - a 1954 French military aircraft called a Broussard. Picking up a few people on route. It is a big fund raising event for the flight which keeps vintage Navy aircraft in the air. An incredible cause and Bremont is auctioning off a rather special limited edition Marine Clock and two limited edition MBII watches for the cause. Will undoubtedly be on the phone later tonight as the US wakes up!
JH - Who is the next Bremont out there, and what advice do you have for them?
JH - Who is the next Bremont out there, and what advice do you have for them?
NE - I cannot answer the first bit really - I really hope it is a British company. There is an incredible history of British clock and watch making and it would be great if this resurgence continues. My advice would be to not to Baselworld first - we would have never done it had we seen how many brands are out there!! But joking aside, if you don't have the true deep seated passion for the product itself, then my advice is yo not go into making watches, you will full flat at the first hurdle.
Graham Chronofighter Oversize Diver
 |
| Courtesy of Graham |
OVERSIZE DIVER
Ref. 2OVEB.B40A
Functions Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter). Date at 7 o'clock. Helium escape valve
Hours, minutes, seconds
Calibre Calibre G1734, automatic bi-compax chronograph,
28'800 A/h (4 hz),
Incabloc shock absorber
27 jewels
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case 47 mm steel with black PVD case
Steel with black PVD left hand fast-action start/stop trigger and reset pusher with
"Clous de Paris" high grip pattern
Steel with black PVD bezel , rotating rim to measure decompression time
Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces
Steel with black PVD case back with Royal Marine crown-symbol
Water
resistance
1000 feet / 330 m
Dial Black dial and counters
Black nickel hands and indexes with black Super-LumiNova,
black chrono and minutes counter's hands with orange tip
Strap Integrated black rubber
Ceramic pin buckle
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Cruise Original Lipstick from TechnoMarine
This just in from TechnoMarine -
TechnoMarine introduces Cruise Original Lipstick, the newest addition to the brand’s popular Cruise Original Mirror family. Available in three summery shades—violet, fuchsia and coral—each is seemingly drawn from a palette of the hottest shades for summer 2011. The fun and flirty colors that ‘makeup’ the new Cruise Original Lipstick collection are heightened by the entrancing visual effect of a hologram dial.
TechnoMarine introduces Cruise Original Lipstick, the newest addition to the brand’s popular Cruise Original Mirror family. Available in three summery shades—violet, fuchsia and coral—each is seemingly drawn from a palette of the hottest shades for summer 2011. The fun and flirty colors that ‘makeup’ the new Cruise Original Lipstick collection are heightened by the entrancing visual effect of a hologram dial.
 |
| Courtesy of TechnoMarine |
Bremont ALT1-C the controls
Beautifully conceived - it is subtle in its elegance - so simple, yet such a strong connection to the spirit of Bremont.
the designers at Bremont selected are the perfect match. They are large and easy to operate - but not too large. I say this from past experience. Sometimes bigger is not always better! But this configuration has struck the perfect balance. Yes, it looks strong and bold, but more than this - it truly WORKS!
The Classic R.D.S. Watch from Angular Momentum
This is something new from Angular Momentum - and in their own words:
Over 12 years ago, Angular Momentum has launched its first watch collection named "The Pioneers".
The Collection contained four different watch models of classic designs of the past 100 years of watch making.
The unique aspect of the watch collection was, that the time was not displayed by hour and minute hands above a dial but by a revolving hour-disk the size of the dial and a minute hand.
The Revolving-Hour-Disk is printed with a minute track and numbers for the 12 hours in conter-clockwise direction. The Hour-Disk revolves around once in 12 hours. The hours are read at 12 o'clock position and the minute hand shows the minutes in traditional way.
 |
| Courtesy of Angular Momentum |
his concept was called Revolving-Dik-System and has been registered as a technical Patent CH 696899 in 1997.
So simply the concept was, so difficult it was for the consumer to understand. At this time there was very little innovation in the watch industry regard time display.
Meanwhile the watch industry became more innovative and experimental as the customer became more open minded and one can see once a while, watch brands playing with revolving disks.
In the following years, Angular Momentum has created a large number of different Timepieces which display Hours and Minutes, Time Zones, Moon Phases, Dates and many more based on its patented Revolving-Disk-Techniology.
 |
| Courtesy of Angular Momentum |
Classic "R.D.S." Dress Watch
Three-body 1.4435Ncu Staybrite steel case with mirror polished finish,
Stainless steel back featuring ahand engraved medallion with floral motif
Double-curved sapphire crystal
Polished hands
Case caliber 36.00 mm
Historic (new-old stock) hand-winding movement (Caliber FHF 96)
18000 A/h, 48 hours power reserve
Revolving Hour-Disk, Minute hand
www.angularmomentum.com
More posts coming today - please be patient
Hi all -
Ironically enough today was to be a big day with lots of posts and updates, but the photo add feature is being a little tricky. I think I have a work around and will be posting at approximately 2:00 PM PST.
James
Ironically enough today was to be a big day with lots of posts and updates, but the photo add feature is being a little tricky. I think I have a work around and will be posting at approximately 2:00 PM PST.
James
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
6 watches in 1 - TecnoMarine's Cruise Sport Rave
This just in from TechnoMarine, the Cruise Sport Rave - essentially a single watch that can give you up to six looks!
![]()
And for those of you who like your information straight from the source, here it is -
![]()
www.technomarine.com
www.technomarine.com
Monday, June 20, 2011
Bremont ALT1-C 3 Days In
Okay, it has been three days so far with Bremont's ALT1-C. To start with, some basics -
It is a two-register, self-winding chronograph which is a certified chronometer. Over the three days the time keeping has been very, very good. PLUS 2 seconds as of this morning according to the atomic time source.
It is at once a substantial, yet comfortable watch. It has definite heft to it, and is a pleasing 43 mm in diameter. I will be honest, at first glance I was worried that this would be a bit too heavy to wear comfortably, but it is actually wonderfully easy on the wrist. The combination of a thick leather strap acts as the perfect counter-balance to the watch, and further adds to the wearability.
More to come - stay tuned!
It is a two-register, self-winding chronograph which is a certified chronometer. Over the three days the time keeping has been very, very good. PLUS 2 seconds as of this morning according to the atomic time source.
More to come - stay tuned!
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Bremont - Practical Luxury
 |
| Courtesy of Bremont |
Beautiful, and ultimately, wasteful.
This is different, a zippered compartment to store the watch, along with slots and pockets for documentation on the watch, etc. This is a wonderfully thought-out touch. Packaging, yes...
but it is ultimately practical, and useful.
Thank you Bremont, the past three days have been a real treat!
Friday, June 17, 2011
15 Days with Bremont
And like the changing of the guard, one new-found friend has returned home, and a new friendship begins.
First report to follow - stay tuned!
Thursday, June 16, 2011
JeanRichard Highlands - Overview
One of the first things that struck me about the Highlands was the overall attention to every detail that went into the design. How often do we see a diver watch with the bracelet removed and replaced with a leather or rubber strap? But it isn't really the same thing. And the Highlands really embraces and celebrates the idea of a sport watch. Yes, it has a screw down crown and rotating bezel. And it is water resistant to 10 ATMs, but it is, at its heart, primarily for wear above the water.
The beautiful dial, with the impressively lumed arabic numbers really sets the tone for the entire watch. The dial is open, legible and easy to read. It is well-balanced and while bold, it is not too bold. The hands while substantial, are well-suited to the face. Demanding attention, but not overpowering the watch face.
The case is first rate. Smooth where it needs to be without sacrificing the rugged looks. Sand blasted and dead-cool! The bezel was perhaps my favorite feature. It is bi-directional and ratchets (i.e. clicks into place). It allows for a true second time zone without the worry of losing the second time zone with an inadvertent touch to the bezel. The case is substantial without being oppressive. 44.5 mm x 40 mm it achieves a wonderful balance by seating a round dial and bezel into a somewhat squared/tonneau style case. This creates a comfortable watch that is a true pleasure to wear.
Last but not least - the movement. This is an in-house, manufacture movement. Self-winding and beautifully finished.
JEANRICHARD movement JR1000
Self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
Self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
 |
| Courtesy of JeanRichard |
This was a supremely accurate watch to wear. Bang on time every day, the maximum deviation that I experienced was 3 seconds one day. On average, + 2 seconds per day.
Ultimately, what really speaks to me about the Highlands is that while it has a lot of individual strengths, it is the watch as a whole that really speaks volumes for the design team at JeanRichard. Every element complements without competing. It is at once elegant and rugged.
I have truly enjoyed every minute of the past 15 days, and somehow suspect that a trip to a JeanRichard retail partner might be in my future.
Heroes and ... part deux
PR is a difficult function, particularly within a watch company. Before I started doing PR for DOXA, I thought it would be sunshine and public events. Meeting famous people, handing out watches, smiling for the camera, champagne and parties!
In reality, PR is often doing a thousand things at once for just as many people. Please and thank you are sometimes words you can go a long time without hearing. Long days spent in trade shows, unfamiliar hotels, and dubious food. So it can be challenging at the best of times.
Since I started the blog nearly a year ago, one of the first companies to respond back to me was Eterna/Porsche Design, and Manon Abplanalp, their Public Relations Manager was always there right from the begining. Press releases, product information, and it is important to mention - the first watch to be in the 15 day review! Manon is a PR Super-Hero!
MCT watches is a unique company - producing only a few pieces a year, they have to try a bit harder to get their message out there. And at the forefront spreading the good word is Sophie Bonnet. You would search high and low and not find a better ambassador. Sophie is a star! We met briefly at the Ramada in Basel and I now understand what it must be like to have coffee with a famous person with all of the people she knew stopping by to say hello and bend her ear. Clearly a very good person to know.
And what about distributors? I will say that my whole perception of distributors changed when I spent some time with Dan Lewis. Dan and his company are responsible for several key brands in the US and Canada including Azimuth, Paul Picot and others. I went expecting to see some watches and have a brief chat, but Dan took the time to introduce me to everyone he could. And instead of me explaining the blog to the watch companies, it was Dan! I suspect that Dan might have been a motivational speaker at one time because he had everyone's attention, including mine.
I think what is unique with these folks is that they are genuinely interested in what they are doing, and this clearly shows through. As I said before, this blog could not really be what it is without people like this sharing of their time - thank you!
In reality, PR is often doing a thousand things at once for just as many people. Please and thank you are sometimes words you can go a long time without hearing. Long days spent in trade shows, unfamiliar hotels, and dubious food. So it can be challenging at the best of times.
Since I started the blog nearly a year ago, one of the first companies to respond back to me was Eterna/Porsche Design, and Manon Abplanalp, their Public Relations Manager was always there right from the begining. Press releases, product information, and it is important to mention - the first watch to be in the 15 day review! Manon is a PR Super-Hero!
MCT watches is a unique company - producing only a few pieces a year, they have to try a bit harder to get their message out there. And at the forefront spreading the good word is Sophie Bonnet. You would search high and low and not find a better ambassador. Sophie is a star! We met briefly at the Ramada in Basel and I now understand what it must be like to have coffee with a famous person with all of the people she knew stopping by to say hello and bend her ear. Clearly a very good person to know.
And what about distributors? I will say that my whole perception of distributors changed when I spent some time with Dan Lewis. Dan and his company are responsible for several key brands in the US and Canada including Azimuth, Paul Picot and others. I went expecting to see some watches and have a brief chat, but Dan took the time to introduce me to everyone he could. And instead of me explaining the blog to the watch companies, it was Dan! I suspect that Dan might have been a motivational speaker at one time because he had everyone's attention, including mine.
I think what is unique with these folks is that they are genuinely interested in what they are doing, and this clearly shows through. As I said before, this blog could not really be what it is without people like this sharing of their time - thank you!
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Mido has it wrong
Something that you might not know about me - the day before I was born, my Grandfather gave my father a Mido watch. My grandfather bought the watch in San Angelo, Texas. Mido has for many years had a tough time really establishing itself in the US, and it has been mentioned more than once that it is really a watch for certain markets, etc. Texas, California and Arizona are some of the stronger areas for Mido. But elsewhere it is next to impossible to find one.
Mido survived the quartz crisis and in the SWATCH group family, they will hopefully stay the course. Moreover, with the evolution of watch marketing via the internet, watch companies like Mido have the opportunity to become truly global and not "niche" specific. Travel to Switzerland, and look in a watch store window - you will find Mido there. Mido is respected for what it is, a solid watch at a fair price.
BUT...
Recently, a friend emailed me a job advertisement from Mido in which they state that they are looking for someone to help them connect with the "Latin American" market. The job listing went to great lengths to point out this strategy, in essence that the marketing approach would be to focus almost exhaustively upon the Latino market place alone. And finally I had to hit the "pause" button. Those of you who regularly visit here will know that my main rule is - nothing negative. BUT - ENOUGH! In essence, if I am reading between the lines, what Mido is saying is that they are pinning their hopes of success in the US on a single demographic. I think what bothers me the most is the short-sighted approach that this represents. I also find it a bit dismissive of Latino consumers. This is one of the fastest growing, and most sophisticated demographics in the US - and therefore it DOES NOT exist in a vacuum. In essence, it is not unlike saying that if you are German you will love sour kraut, Italians all work in family restaurants, etc. It is ignorant.
Now, I am a reasonable person, but when I read stuff like this it really makes me think. I realize that this is a pretty bold statement for me to make, but this really bothers me. Watches are for EVERYONE - not just a demographic - and when you so blatantly state that your product is apparently only for a given demographic, what is that really saying? Is Mido and the SWATCH group telling Latino customers that they won't (or can't) want a Blancpain, or a Panerai or Zenith? Are they also saying that non-Latinos will not want a Mido watch?
Time does not speak only one language, and watches can transcend language, culture and religion. Go to BaselWorld and you will see people from every country on the planet coming together. And here in the US - c'mon Mido - that's what we're founded on!
As I write this, I am wearing my Mido Multifort - yes, another Mido. I LOVE Mido, but I honestly feel that they have this marketing approach WRONG. A stereotype can be a very hard thing to overcome, and only more so when you actively work to keep it going.
Mido survived the quartz crisis and in the SWATCH group family, they will hopefully stay the course. Moreover, with the evolution of watch marketing via the internet, watch companies like Mido have the opportunity to become truly global and not "niche" specific. Travel to Switzerland, and look in a watch store window - you will find Mido there. Mido is respected for what it is, a solid watch at a fair price.
BUT...
Recently, a friend emailed me a job advertisement from Mido in which they state that they are looking for someone to help them connect with the "Latin American" market. The job listing went to great lengths to point out this strategy, in essence that the marketing approach would be to focus almost exhaustively upon the Latino market place alone. And finally I had to hit the "pause" button. Those of you who regularly visit here will know that my main rule is - nothing negative. BUT - ENOUGH! In essence, if I am reading between the lines, what Mido is saying is that they are pinning their hopes of success in the US on a single demographic. I think what bothers me the most is the short-sighted approach that this represents. I also find it a bit dismissive of Latino consumers. This is one of the fastest growing, and most sophisticated demographics in the US - and therefore it DOES NOT exist in a vacuum. In essence, it is not unlike saying that if you are German you will love sour kraut, Italians all work in family restaurants, etc. It is ignorant.
Now, I am a reasonable person, but when I read stuff like this it really makes me think. I realize that this is a pretty bold statement for me to make, but this really bothers me. Watches are for EVERYONE - not just a demographic - and when you so blatantly state that your product is apparently only for a given demographic, what is that really saying? Is Mido and the SWATCH group telling Latino customers that they won't (or can't) want a Blancpain, or a Panerai or Zenith? Are they also saying that non-Latinos will not want a Mido watch?
Time does not speak only one language, and watches can transcend language, culture and religion. Go to BaselWorld and you will see people from every country on the planet coming together. And here in the US - c'mon Mido - that's what we're founded on!
As I write this, I am wearing my Mido Multifort - yes, another Mido. I LOVE Mido, but I honestly feel that they have this marketing approach WRONG. A stereotype can be a very hard thing to overcome, and only more so when you actively work to keep it going.
Special Edition for Only Watch from De Bethune
This just in from De Bethune -
What is a watch, if not a "machine" to measure the flow of time? A kind of speed counter for the flux of an energy of which we know almost nothing, except that it exists and that it is carrying us somewhere...
What is absolute speed, if not that of light, that beyond which there is no more time, nor space, nor perhaps even energy? The logical conclusion is that any approach to watchmaking is in fact a reflection on infinity as we are able to admire it without actually comprehending it: it is an emotion born the dizzying sensation stemming from a reality that transcends our grasp. And this is where a deliberately chosen aesthetic option must express a philosophical choice.
With this DB25 specially created for Only Watch, De Bethune has chosen light as the medium from which to sculpt its conception of the world, of space, and of time. The light of a nocturnal sky studded with gold and diamonds: the infinite realm of a starlit night. Not just any night: that of January 8th 1297, when the stars guided François Grimaldi through the narrow streets of the Monaco fortress. Disguised as a Franciscan monk, he slipped through the darkness to open the gates of this Genoese stronghold for his own troops. 700 years later, on this same rock, his descendant is still the prince of Monaco.
François Grimaldi could still count the 115 stars that Providence had placed in the sky above Monaco: they are all of different sizes, appearing in white gold or invisible set diamonds. Orion and Gemini illuminate this flame-blued dial, of which each proportion and every detail has been arranged to express a perfectly mastered play on light with its shimmering reflections and gentle curves. The convex volume on the outer edge catches and holds the gaze, creating an illusion of infinite depth thanks to the concave centre.
The backbone of this concave central mass guides the eye to where the time is read off in a window at the bottom of the dial where the sandblasted silver discs glide by, displaying Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals for the minutes. The dark glow of flame-blued and hand-polished titanium. The incandescence of white gold and diamonds. The silvery gleam of moonlight. The space-time continuum of cosmic immensity is frozen here on the wrist, for a magical moment spanning the chronological distance between the present and a seven century-old founding event and the present.
Other expressions of light include the mirror or specular polish on the movement that erases the work of machines to reveal only the meticulous labour of artisans, their sense of beauty and their taste for perfection. It is a mechanism worthy of the finest masterpieces of the horological tradition, enriched with a good measure of innovation (the De Bethune silicon/platinum annular balance and other subtle technical features) that so rightly accompany any exceptional watch.
 |
| Courtesy of De Bethune |
What is absolute speed, if not that of light, that beyond which there is no more time, nor space, nor perhaps even energy? The logical conclusion is that any approach to watchmaking is in fact a reflection on infinity as we are able to admire it without actually comprehending it: it is an emotion born the dizzying sensation stemming from a reality that transcends our grasp. And this is where a deliberately chosen aesthetic option must express a philosophical choice.
With this DB25 specially created for Only Watch, De Bethune has chosen light as the medium from which to sculpt its conception of the world, of space, and of time. The light of a nocturnal sky studded with gold and diamonds: the infinite realm of a starlit night. Not just any night: that of January 8th 1297, when the stars guided François Grimaldi through the narrow streets of the Monaco fortress. Disguised as a Franciscan monk, he slipped through the darkness to open the gates of this Genoese stronghold for his own troops. 700 years later, on this same rock, his descendant is still the prince of Monaco.
François Grimaldi could still count the 115 stars that Providence had placed in the sky above Monaco: they are all of different sizes, appearing in white gold or invisible set diamonds. Orion and Gemini illuminate this flame-blued dial, of which each proportion and every detail has been arranged to express a perfectly mastered play on light with its shimmering reflections and gentle curves. The convex volume on the outer edge catches and holds the gaze, creating an illusion of infinite depth thanks to the concave centre.
The backbone of this concave central mass guides the eye to where the time is read off in a window at the bottom of the dial where the sandblasted silver discs glide by, displaying Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals for the minutes. The dark glow of flame-blued and hand-polished titanium. The incandescence of white gold and diamonds. The silvery gleam of moonlight. The space-time continuum of cosmic immensity is frozen here on the wrist, for a magical moment spanning the chronological distance between the present and a seven century-old founding event and the present.
Other expressions of light include the mirror or specular polish on the movement that erases the work of machines to reveal only the meticulous labour of artisans, their sense of beauty and their taste for perfection. It is a mechanism worthy of the finest masterpieces of the horological tradition, enriched with a good measure of innovation (the De Bethune silicon/platinum annular balance and other subtle technical features) that so rightly accompany any exceptional watch.
The Case for the JeanRichard Highlands
It is the final day, and it is time to weigh in on the case of the JeanRichard Highlands - or more specifically the case, the bezel and the crown.
The bezel is really something that I have grown very, very fond of. It is a true 12 hour measure, that is bi-directional, but ratcheting - i.e. it stays in place! It offers a trule second time zone, and the look and feel of the bezel is the perfect balance to the watch itself. The movement of the bezel is smooth and precise, with a very satisfying sound as it clicks into place.
The crown is very well balanced, and extremely well executed. It is a screw-down crown to ensure the promised water resistance - 10ATM is achieved.
Overall, the case has been a joy to wear. It's funny when a lot of us talk about watches, the first things we go to are run-rates (which by the way has been superlative), the finishing of the movement or if the case is mentioned is usually in terms of the size - too big or too small. In the words of a certain blonde home intruder - "this one is just right". But more to the point, it is supremely comfortable.
The finishing of the case itself is, again, a perfect match to the spirit of the overall design, so full marks to the design team here. Sand blasted, not polished, and not PVD. Again, totally in keeping with the overall theme.
Here are the case specs:
Sand-blasted stainless steel case
Dimensions: 44.50 x 40 mm
Height: 11.96 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case-back secured with 4 screws
Water-resistant to 100 m
Screwed crown
Bidirectional rotating bezel
I will be summing up the two weeks this evening, so stay tuned!
The finishing of the case itself is, again, a perfect match to the spirit of the overall design, so full marks to the design team here. Sand blasted, not polished, and not PVD. Again, totally in keeping with the overall theme.
Here are the case specs:
Sand-blasted stainless steel case
Dimensions: 44.50 x 40 mm
Height: 11.96 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case-back secured with 4 screws
Water-resistant to 100 m
Screwed crown
Bidirectional rotating bezel
 |
| Courtesy of JeanRichard |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)