Showing posts with label Roger Dubuis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Roger Dubuis. Show all posts

Thursday, June 15, 2023

The Transfer Window Opens

At Roger Dubuis.

Word reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time early this AM that Nicola Andreatta has slung his hook and parted ways with his now former employer, Roger Dubuis. What is curious about all of this is, of course, the timing, as Mr. Andreatta has left his position with immediate effect. And curious to relate, and interim replacement was already warming up on the touchline and subbed in immediately. That "super sub" would be none other than Emmanuel Perrin. And to quote that other great commentator on the watch business (and sometime professional baseball player) Lawrence Peter "YogiBerra:

"It's like déjà vu all over again." 

A quick hop in the Wayback Machine, takes us  back to 2018 when Mr. Perrin was holding the keys at Roger Dubuis, searching for a permanent replacement. And as of yesterday, he has once more stepped into the breach and will hold the fort once again until a more permanent replacement can be found. 


So here's the thing, Swiss labor law is a very, very tricky thing and very different from the US of A where most states have "at will" labor laws, meaning either party can end the employment relationship at any time, pretty much for any reason. Needless to say, we also have quite a bit of labor related litigation, so it is truly a double edged sword. But the main point I'm making here, is that it is that in Switzerland it is next to impossible to wake up one morning, call the boss and tell them you quit as of that minute. It is equally difficult for the boss to inform you of the same. Essentially, depending on who is initiating the divorce, they have to give sufficient notice. So needless to say, this move is more than a little bit out of the norm for Switzerland.

So we wish Mr. Andreatta God's Speed as he pursues his professional interests outside of the Richemont group, and the music once again plays for the CEO candidates gathered for this impromptu party game, hoping to grab a chair when it stops.



Monday, December 18, 2017

The Transfer Window Opens...

At Panerai -

The word around the campfire last week was that the new captain of the good ship Panerai is going to be Jean-Marc Pontroué.  So if the murmurs are to be believed, it appears that Mr. Pontroué, of late calling the shots at Roger Dubuis, will be putting on his swim fins and adjusting his snorkel in a lateral move from one Richemont brand to another.  To the best of my understanding, this is still unofficial news, so I thought I'd let it breathe for a few days to see if there were any comments of refutation forthcoming from Richemont, and as of Monday morning at 6:40 AM Eastern, not a sausage.  So...

The former helmsman, Angelo Bonati, will hand over the bridge some time in April of next year.  Which is slightly curious timing, but I am sure that Panerai, (and let's be honest, Richemont) have their reasons for handling this the way that they are.  I suspect it has more than a little to do with contracts both new and existing.

There are some some out there that fear that Mr. Pontroué will morph into the Ghost of Christmas past from Zenith, a former Champagne CEO who like Icarus flew too close to the sun before flaming out and disappearing into the luxury wilderness.  The assertion being that he may, at times, have been a little too "wild and crazy" with his designs and ambitions for the house of RD.  

Panerai is a brand that is still very admired and will always have an appreciative audience.  If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then the former Florentine brand must die of blushes with every other Kickstarter or thinly veiled "homage" offering to come down the chute.

In speaking with other colleagues from the fourth and fifth estates, the consensus is that Panerai would be a pretty difficult ship to sink.  But by the same token, it is also an unwieldy boat to turn with any real finesse.  Panerai is, to some extent, in the doldrums.  Not too bad, but also not what they once were, or what many of us feel they could be.  When Bernard Watch has 31 pre-owned Panerai watches for sale, it tells you something.  And that something is that certainly Panerai is known, and there are people out there who want them, but the number of people buying them might be running in close tandem to the people looking to sell the ones that they have.

And this is where our old friends supply and demand but heads with exclusivity and desire.  As the customer, should I buy from Panerai or a Panerai retailer for one price, or roll the dice on a pre-
owned version?  And when the pre-owned and grey markets are so saturated, does this represent a wise purchase for me?

Now I'm hopping into the time machine back to 2003 when I bought a pre-owned Panerai B series while working at Tourneau.  Back then, a pre-owned Panerai of ANY description was about as common as an honest politician.  But I snapped it up (paying full price), and then flipped it a few months later for a tidy profit and a Rolex Explorer I into the bargain. 

Panerai can be something better than it currently is.  But it is not going to be made great again by making watch cases out of Unobtainium, or developing the "Unicorn" movement.  No, for Panerai it is a very simple equation:

fewer watches / more customers unable to lay hands to one = greater exclusivity x greater demand.

At any rate, bonne chance to Mr. Pontroué as he takes the wheel, we shall see what develops.

 

Friday, July 14, 2017

The Hunger Games, Part the Second

I'm sure you've already read about it, but to confirm -
Georges Kern has "dropped his letter" at Richemont HQ.

Unlike many resignations and appointments, the news braking this Bastille Day has taken a lot of us by surprise, including me.  But when you spool it out and look at it in its (current) entirety, the pieces do fit together rather nicely.

Courtesy of tick-talk time
So let's start at the beginning with the announcement put out earlier today from (I suspect) a very harried PR department:

Richemont announces resignation of Head of Watchmaking, Marketing and Digital
 

14 July 2017



Richemont regrets to announce the resignation with immediate effect of Mr Georges Kern. Mr Kern was Head of Watchmaking, Marketing and Digital. He has stepped down from the Senior Executive Committee and the Group Management Committee and will no longer be standing for election to the Board of Directors of Compagnie Financière Richemont SA at the forthcoming annual general meeting of shareholders.

Commenting on Mr Kern's decision, Mr Johann Rupert, Chairman, said:

Quote
Georges has been offered an interesting opportunity to become an entrepreneur.
He has had a very successful career at IWC Schaffhausen and we wish him well.
Unquote

Richemont's watchmaking, marketing and digital activities will report to the Senior Executive Committee.


But there is, it would seem, another twist in the tale.  Later in the day it was intimated (albeit not by anyone willing to go officially on the record) that Mr. Kern would be taking control of another testosterone fueled brand, Breitling.  This reporting came from the folks at Le Temps.  Attempts to get either confirmation or denial from Mr. Kern were apparently unsuccessful as of this morning (Swiss time).

Okay, so that's the obviously knowable, but let's dig into the context.  Mr. Kern did a very good job with IWC, and I suspect that in the palace court that is Richemont HQ, there has been more than a little jockeying for position.  With the announcement of a "twin towers" approach which resulted in booting both Mr. Kern and Mr. Lambert upstairs into Richemont's newly re-jiggered corporate structure, it seemed that the one who could be the most Machiavellian would probably emerge as the CEO of the entire Richemont group.  And very often when you have two people who want the same thing, it can very rapidly become a war of attrition.
The other thing to consider is what Charles Horton Cooley termed the Looking Glass Self.  Essentially, that the way we view and value ourselves is, more often than not, a reflection of how we feel we are perceived by others.   When you have been at the forefront of a fairly successful brand, it can be a bit of a let-down to no longer be the face of that brand.   Being in charge of several brands gives you status for sure, but it is not nearly as sexy as the red carpet.  Breitling has historically been ready, willing and able to throw money around and pursue celebrity "chums".  And in fairness to Mr. Kern, he does posses a gift for the "grip and grin".
It is important to really understand that although this news is "breaking" for the rest of us, this was clearly put in motion some time ago.  From time to time impulsive decisions are made in the heat of passion, but I do not think this is one of those times.  This has clearly been building, and more than likely Mr. Kern was just looking for the best possible sortie (and that would be the French definition).

So if the reports are true, and Mr. Kern is on his way to Grenchen, then it marks an interesting step in his career.  As to the "entrepreneurial" aspect of this step, it is also unclear as to whether Mr. Kern raided his piggy bank or whether he was granted some equity in exchange for taking on the challenge.  
My only request would be that he remove the fighter jet from the Grenchen roundabout just off the highway... it's an eyesore.

 

Thursday, July 13, 2017

The Excalibur Spider Double Flying Tourbillon

From Roger Dubuis -

Courtesy of Roger Dubuis

Here are the pertinents -


Case:  
Skeletonized, Ø47 mm, titanium black DLC with titanium container over molded with orange rubber. 
Fluted titanium bezel with black markings. 
Titanium black DLC over molded with orange rubber crown. 
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and red 
metallization glass. Titanium black DLC and sapphire 
crystal case back.

Thickness: 14.95 mm

Dial: Black and orange skeleton dial and flange with 
rhodium plated indexes with white luminous SLN, 
18K Gold black PVD hands with red transfer and 
white luminous SLN tips.

Water resistance: 5 BAR (50 m)
 

Strap: Bi-material strap with black rubber base; black and
orange perforated calf leather inlay, orange stitching.

Clasp: Black DLC Titanium cover on titanium adjustable 
folding clasp.

Calibre: Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon RD105SQ  

Production: 28 pieces


Certification: Poinçon de Genève

RD105SQ Calibre: Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon

Features: Double Flying Tourbillon at 5 and 7 o’clock (one rotation per minute). 
Hand-wound mechanical caliber, finely adjusted in six positions.

Functions: Hours and minutes

Decorations: Skeleton movement, rhodium plated 
inner-Astral décor, NAC coated plate and bridges, circular-grained plate and bridges, tourbillon carriages in the shape of a Celtic Cross.“Poinçon de Genève” finishing.

Number of parts: 366 components  

Jewels: 50
 

Diameter: 16 3⁄4 ``
 

Thickness: 7.67 mm 

Frequency: 2 x 3 Hz (21’600 vph)  

Power-reserve: 52 hours

Thursday, October 13, 2016

The Velvet Ribbon

From Roger Dubuis
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
Here are the pertinents -

Case: 
Ø36 mm, white gold case and decor fully paved with baguette-cut diamonds, 
ribbon and ange set with brilliant-cut diamonds 


Thickness: 
8.77 mm


Dial: 
Mother-of-pearl dial, white roman numerals transfers, 
white gold appliques at 6 and 12 o’clock, 
black transfers Roger Dubuis and Poinçon de Genève inscriptions


N° of diamonds: 
385 diamonds (341 on the case and 44 on the buckle)

Carats: 
8.67 carats approx. (8.45 on the case and 0.22 on the buckle)

Water Resistance: 
3 BAR (30 m) Strap: Black satin- nish fabric strap

Clasp: 
White gold adjustable folding clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Calibre: 
Self-winding calibre, RD821 

Production: 
88 pieces


Certi cation: 
Poinçon de Genève 




Monday, August 22, 2016

Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon Americas Edition

From Roger Dubuis -
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis

Here are the pertinents -

Excalibur Spider Americas Limited Edition, RDDBEX0549 

Case:
Skeleton case, 45mm, Titanium


Thickness:
13.75 mm

Dial:
Skeleton
Red and yellow black DLC titanium skeleton flange White Roger Dubuis transfers
Titanium screws with SLN
Skeleton hands in gold

Black DLC treatment with SLN

Water Resistance
5 BAR (50 m) 


Strap:


White rubber



Clasp:
Titanium adjustable folding clasp

Calibre:
Hand-wound calibre, RD505SQ

Production:
20 pieces

Certification:
Poinçon de Genève

RD505SQ Calibre: Skeleton Flying Tourbillon
Features:
Flying tourbillon at 7.30
(one rotation per minute) Hand-wound mechanical calibre 
Power-reserve of 60 hours 
Finely adjusted in six positions 


Functions:
Hours and minutes

Decorations:
Skeleton calibre
Black colour
Circular-grained plate

Tourbillon carriage in the shape 
of a Celtic cross “Poinçon de Genève” finishings 


Specifications:
179 components 19 jewels
Diameter: 16’’’
Thickness: 4.28 mm 
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vph)