Millennialitis - Or Why It's Okay To Be Just Right

Baume & Mercier announced their new sports watch - the Clifton Club.

Courtesy of Rod Hess

I was not there to see it in person, but the ever-intrepid Rod Hess was there on the scene and was kind enough to share some his images with me. 

So I was struck by a few things - first the name: Club.  This is meant to be a designation for the entry level to Baume & Mercier.  Curious to relate that this was the same naming convention used by a certain watch brand in Germany a few years ago...
Secondly, the very clear indication that once again Baume & Mercier are not understanding who they are, and more importantly who their customers are.

Because, let's be honest, haven't you been searching endlessly for the ideal watch to wear while skateboarding to your important business meeting?

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

It would seem that the brain trust at Baume & Mercier have a bad case of Millenialitis.  Essentially the unshakable belief that the so-called millennial generation is a completely new and unique group that speaks Klingon, only drinks Pabst Blue Ribbon (or some other ironic varietal), and apparently would have NO desire for the classic watches that they had previously made. 

And this is, to me, hilarious.  Because it fails to take into consideration that yes, styles and tastes will change and shift and EVOLVE.  But that is evolution, not revolution.  And when you've built a brand that is based on a certain thing, and you've been successful with it... well maybe you should not abandon it so readily. 

Baume & Mercier is not hip.  And guess what?  That is okay!  For better or worse, Baume & Mericier is invariably the watch that is purchased by someone who is not entirely sure of what they want or are looking for.  They are the unofficial watch of Goldilocks - not too expensive, not too cheap, not too "sporty".  They are just right. 

And they are also firmly in the sweet spot for upper middle-class moms and dads who live in the suburbs.  Guess what?  They have money and the SPEND it!  They don't require a lot of marketing.  When I was working at Tourneau I would invariably have customers like this:
"I want a watch for my wife/husband.  It is our fifth anniversary."  This would lead us to Cartier, Rolex and invariably end at Baume & Mercier.  It was not the most expensive, it was not the cheapest, it was just right 

There is a retail store in Santa Barbara who at one time had:
Breitling, Patek, Cartier and Baume & Mercier.  Guess what their best seller was?  Baume & Mercier!

Because when you flail and flap about, changing your m.o. every few months, well you run the risk of losing the customers you already have. 

Because let's face it, the Shelby Cobra is a strange partnership choice.

Courtesy of Rod Hess

Because nothing says Baume & Mercier like this...

An SIHH Preview from Baume & Mercier

This is the Clifton GMT Power Reserve -

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

Here are the pertinents, straight from Baume & Mercier HQ -

CLIFTON GMT POWER RESERVE  

 

REFERENCE

ƒM0A10316

MOVEMENT
Automatic (Soprod 9035)
Oscillating weight personalized
with snailed & « Côtes de Genève » decors
Circular-grained bridges & plate
Blued steel screws
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, seconds, dual time, power reserve indicator, date

CASE
Round
Diameter: 43 mm
Polished & satin-finished steel
ƒDomed antiglare scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ƒ Sapphire case back secured with 4 screws

DIAL
Sun satin-finished blue
ƒRhodium-plated Arabic numerals and indexes ƒ Rhodium-plated hands

STRAP
Square scales black alligator CLASP
Adjustable triple folding clasp with security push-pieces

WATER-RESISTANCE
5 ATM (approx. 50m)

185 Years Young

This is special -

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

Baume & Mercier wanted to offer something a little bit more than a "stock" piece with an inscription.

This is the the Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve - a 185 piece limited edition.

45.5 mm of 18k red gold.  The movement is hand wound and provides hours, minutes, sub seconds, date and power reserve.


Here's the scoop, straight from the source -

A Watch Symbol to Celebrate Baume & Mercier’s 185 Years of Expertise

A 185-piece limited edition: Clifton 8-Day power reserve
Few brands have the distinction of a long history with classic designs that remain timeless for years to come. Since 1830, Baume & Mercier has been a part of this inner circle. This year, the brand is celebrating its 185th anniversary. To honor this celebration, only an exceptional timepiece embodying the mastery and heart of the brand will do: introducing the Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve.

Celebrate 185 years of expertise
Limited to 185 pieces, the Clifton’s sophisticated mechanism embodies 185 years of Swiss watchmaking. With a polished and satin-finished case and domed dial matching the sapphire crystal shape, this Clifton piece stays true to the brands roots. Its luxury qualities, traditional finishes, and exceptional performance seamlessly fall within the family of complex timepieces cultivated by Baume & Mercier. Similar to the Clifton 1830 launched in 2013 and Clifton Tourbillon 1892 unveiled in 2014, this elegant new edition embraces the heritage that has always been appreciated for its sense of balance. 

Performance at the Core 

Baume & Mercier has chosen a mechanical manual-winding manufacture movement, with an eight-day power reserve, for this 45.5 mm 18K red gold piece. This manual movement enables the watch to run for over a week. At this level of perfection, every detail counts. To help each owner find the most appropriate time to wind the watch, Baume & Mercier placed a discreet power- reserve indicator on the dial, which shows the winding level.
Visible through the transparent case-back, this hand-assembled 16 3⁄4-ligne caliber provides a glimpse of the variable-inertia balance oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Adjusted by a master watchmaker in five positions, as is customary with high-precision watches, this movement is equipped with a stop seconds mechanism, designed to ensure the most accurate possible time-setting.

This large manufacture caliber boasts an eight-day power reserve (compared to two days for most mechanical watches) provided by a single barrel, which represents an exceptional performance. The balance is disabled by a mechanism at the end of 192 hours, when the available energy becomes insufficient to ensure the accuracy of the movement. Because of this power reserve function, only three full windings are required each month.
The beautiful décor features a circular-grained finish on the plate and “Côtes de Genève” on the bridges. One of the bridges is engraved with the Greek letter, “Phi”, which is the logo of Baume & Mercier as well as the symbol of “Divine Proportion” and the golden ratio. 

Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve 10195 

To expand the Clifton watch line that is a pillar of its collections, Baume & Mercier introduces the Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve. This exceptional piece with a domed, opaline silver-colored dial, showcasing a snailed small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The dial is decorated with riveted numerals and indexes. The 18K red gold 45.5 mm case, powered by a manual-winding manufacture caliber with a 192-hour power reserve, is part of a limited edition release. 185 engraved pieces were produced to celebrate the anniversary of the Swiss brand. The Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve watch delivers with a black square scale alligator strap, secured by an 18K red gold pin buckle, completing its design with refined sophistication. Offered in a special limited edition case, this Clifton has the design to celebrate special moments for a lifetime.

Happy Birthday Baume & Mercier!

Something Special with Baume & Mercier

Something special is happening with Baume & Mercier this evening -




Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

The Clifton Goes Global

43 mm of brushed satin-finished stainless-steel goodness!  These two new Clifton models add one of my preferred complications - a GMT/Second timezone.

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

Introducing the Cliftons

In fairness, these were introduced by Baume & Mercier back at SIHH, but I always like to see a whole collection in one go if possible, so without further ado ladies and gentlemen, the Cliftons -

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier 

This is the Clifton 1830/10060.  It is a hand wound model, measuring 42 mm in diameter.  Manufacture La Joux-Perret movement (7381).

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier 

This is the Clifton 10052.  41 mm stainless steel, self winding movement.  Hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Also available with black dial - 10053

Courtesy of Baume and Mercier

This is the Complete Calendar - 10055.  Hours, minutes, seconds, day & date and moon phase.  Self-winding Dubois Depraz 9000.  43 mm stainless steel.

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

And also available in a truly stunning blue - 10057.  This is without a doubt my favorite piece of this new collection!

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

This is the 10058.  39 mm of polished and satin finished red gold.  Self-winding, with hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

Also available with an anthracite dial - 10059

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier 

For those who want a bracelet, your wishes have been answered with the Clifton 10099.  44 mm, self-winding, stainless steel case and bracelet.

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

And it is also available with a black dial - 10100.


www.baume-et-mercier.com

Baume et Mercier's New Clifton Moonphase

So SIHH is wrapping up for another year - and once again there is one piece that has managed to catch my eye in particular -

Courtesy of Baume et Mercier

This is from Baume et Mercier's new Clifton collection.  Hours, minutes, seconds, date, date and moon phase!

Courtesy of Baume et Mercier

This  would do!

The Clifton from Baume et Mercier

This is something Baume et Mercier will be debuting in January - the new Clifton series.

Courtesy of Baume et Mercier

This one is the Clifton 10052.  It is 41 mm in diameter, with a self-winding movement, small sub-seconds at 6 and date at 3.  What I really like about it is the blue hands - a very nice touch!

Courtesy of Baume et Mercier 

It is also available with a black dial - Clifton 10053.

Courtesy of Baume et Mercier

And then there is my personal favorite, the gold version.  Now as a rule I am not one for gold, but this one is a classic design - it is the type of watch that would be handed down from father to son.  An heirloom.  And I love the fact that it uses a hand-winding movement.

This is the Clifton 10060, and here are the specs straight from Baume et Mercier

Manual-winding mechanical movement (La Joux-Perret 7381), Double barrel; Movement adjusted to 5 positions for accuracy & high precision.  Polished & satin-finished 18K red gold case with opaline silver-colored, domed dial.  Riveted gilt Arabic numerals and indexes. Gilt and blued steel hands. Diameter: 42mm,  Thickness: 8.85mm.  Finished with a premium black alligator strap with square scales, double-hemmed finished, tone on tone stitches.

So now the waiting game begins!  These will have their official debut at SIHH in January.

www.baume-et-mercier.com