Heroes and Villains - The Reinvention/Comeback of the Year: Sartory Billard

So before we go too far, a quick and honest disclosure - I did work with Sartory Billard in a consulting role from 2018 to 2019.

I first met Armand Billard at BaselWorld 2018. 

A very thin, tall guy stalking the halls wearing a sport coat somewhat subtly informing any passersby that he could inform them about (we assumed) some watch brand called Sartory Billard. I later spent some time with him during the second Wine & Time event, and later at the Hyperion (then still the Ramada).  We got to talking, and a few weeks later I did a review of the SB2:

http://www.tempusfugit.watch/2018/04/wrapping-up-seven-days-with-sartory.html

And following that, a month or so later I began consulting on a part time basis. I thought - and still think - that the SB2 is a wonderfully creative watch that offers a huge bang for not too many bucks. 

As BaselWorld 2019 approached, Armand let me know that he and his partner Ludovic Sartory would be unveiling a new collection, the SB3 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

And a funny thing happened - there was a lot of buzz, a lot of journalists stopped by, everything was looking good and...

For whatever reason, Armand thought there was another level to go. And not unlike what Miles Davis, John Coltrane and other giants of Jazz referred to as "woodshedding" things went a bit dark and silent for a time. But what most everyone (including me) did not realize was that Armand had gone into a creative cocoon, and was quietly working on what the next iteration of Sartory Billard was going to be.

And now Im  going to touch on that all important rule that every brand I have worked with must accept - Henki is ALWAYS RIGHT!  Well, apparently not always! My feelings, along with lots of unsolicited advice from other folks was to stick with the SB2 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

For me this was simple - the SB02 was an easy seller, people knew it, it was safe and solid. And here is why Armand Billard is the owner of one of the hottest small, and growing micro brands in the world, and I am sitting in Salem, MA writing about it - he listened to all the feedback, took all opinions into account, and followed his gut. And let's just say that Armand Billard's gut clearly has a PhD from The Sorbonne.

Because what came next was a sucker punch that the watch world wasn't expecting -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

But that is the thing about serendipity - you can't plan for it, and you often don't see it coming! A once small cottage business has rapidly grown into one of the most in-demand touch points for watch fans, and has caused some of the most well known (and well-heeled) collectors clubs to reach out and initiate exclusive, members-only pieces. Remember how Henki always says that doing special, limited series watches for collectors clubs is a bad idea? Well, apparently not so much. Sartory Billard are perhaps one of the few examples of this typically bad idea not only working, but triumphing.

Oh, and another thing - Armand decided that he wasn't happy not having as much control of the process as possible, so he figured why not learn to make specific components for his watches, you know, like the hands and dial inserts? Remember how Henki always said that there are specialists for a reason, and don't get distracted wearing too many hats? Well, it seems that in this case, not so much.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

In fairly short order, Armand went on to master the design and production of these parts, taking every opportunity to learn from anyone who would teach him something. And while you might be thinking  that the results would be the ham-fisted rejects of a first year watch making student, well once again you'd be wrong.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

My friend Rod Hess and I have talked at length about the amazing output of Sartory Billard in this past year. It has been the perfect example of taking everything you know and understand to be fact, and while taking it into consideration, going ahead with what you think is right.  And the results speak for themselves.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Now contrary to what some of my "fans" in Germany might have you believe, I actually LOVE being proven wrong! And if you were to take 100 micro brands who took the same approach, 97 of them would right now be "exploring new professional opportunities". 

But as I've said before - Sartory Billard is a bit special.

So well done Sartory Billard and Armand - and thank you for proving what is possible when you trust your vision.

Two New Holthinrichs Models for The Rake/Revolution

Very pleased to share that The HYPE 2019 Alum Holthinrichs Watches has partnered with The Rake and Revolution magazines to offer two limited editions, today we'll focus on the Refined Elegance -

Courtesy of The Rake

This is a limited series of 10 pieces available through the Rake's online shop.  Each is hand made by Michiel Holthinrichs himself.

Courtesy of The Rake

Should you be of a mind, here are the pertinents -

SPECIFICATIONS

Model:	Ornament
Box/Papers:	Yes/Yes
Functions:	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Material:	Stainless Steel
Dimension:	38mm
Dial:	White stretched lacquer dial contrasted by high-polished rounded applied Breguet numerals
Case:	3D printed surgical 316L steel in high polish
Movement:	Hand-wound
Power Reserve:	45 hours
Calibre:	NOS Peseux 7001
Strap:	“Beads of rice” bracelet reminiscent of vintage Gay Frères bracelets; complimentary buffalo leather strap handmade in Germany
Lug Width:	20mm

The Heritage Automatic

From Wyler Vetta -

Courtesy of Wyler Vetta

Sometimes, you just crave a nice, classic watch.  This is the Heritage Automatic from Wyler Vetta.  I have a personal soft-spot for the original Wyler as my grandfather gave me a gold plated pocket watch in the 1970s after a visit to Oberlin from Texas (which is currently with my friendly neighborhood watchmaker who is giving it the first service of it's 40 year life).

Wyler has had a few different iterations since that time, and is now part of the Binda stable.  And I could be wrong, but it does not seem to be widely available beyond the borders of Italy. 

But back to today's topic -

The Heritage Automatic measures 39 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.  The movement, as with many brands will be either from ETA or Sellita depending on deliveries - 2824/SW200.

Should you find yourself in Milan or Rome, and feel so inclined, here are the pertinents -

CASEPolished stainless steel 
Ø 39 MM

STRAPBlue genuine crocodile leather, handmade in Italy

MOVEMENTAutomatic winding, Cal. 2824/SW200

CROWNStainless steel, with logo

WR3 ATM

CLASPBlue genuine crocodile leather, handmade in Italy

DIALSilver with pattern, IP yellow treatment applied indices and hands

CASEBACKStainless steel, snap

CRYSTALCurved hesalite, with anti-glare treatment

WV0019

Winders - Hyperbole, Hype, and Shitting the Bed

So a now familiar scene here at Tempus Fugit HQ - order new winder, winder arrives and doesn't work, you search for any sort of info that will address the issue.  The "winder company" doesn't bother to explain one key piece of information in either its sales materials (online store) or put any info along the lines of a "getting started" document that might ship with the winder. So you essentially have to figure it out for yourself - apparently the winder must be plugged in overnight before it will work (it is meant to be able to run either by plugging in or using battery power). Long story short, after an overnight the winder worked wonderfully. 

A few months later, it was still working by battery charge, but starting to make a wobbly noise that was a bit disconcerting.  Fast forward a little bit further, and now the winder will not work at all unless plugged in, and it makes a ratcheting noise that gives the feeling the watch might fall out of the winder at any moment. Oh, and then after one series of winds? It powers off.

Now a few important points - in fairness, the winder cost a very affordable sub $50 US (discounted from approximately double that).  So I viewed it as a safe gamble and an affordable way to get a winder and write an unbiased product review. In hindsight, the customer service was a bit iffy (read nearly non existent), and the winder itself crapped out after less than 6 months. Simply put, as cynical as I can be, it seems unfair to air out the details about who made the winder, who sold it and all the low points (along with 1 or 2 positives). It is too easy a target and won't really address what might be the bigger picture.

By and large, very few companies that sell watch winders actually make watch winders.  Now this is not to say that is a universal truth, but it is pretty accurate. Essentially, the winder company is often in a roll not unlike a drop ship fulfillment program. The winder itself is more often than not an off the shelf (not that there is anything wrong with that) item that is then embossed with the selling company's name and packaged in their livery, then shipped. 

And it goes a bit further, these are often "full solution" deals where the winders are packed with (or often without) instructions, etc. in a sealed shipping box. The seller then simply stacks the boxes, and then forwards them to the buyer. And in fairness? As the first customer (of the winder manufacturer) they should reasonably expect that things will work as advertised. The final customer then orders, the "winder company" pulls a box and ships it.

Now let's get into the wonderful reality that is the "Sunk Cost Trap" - as it applies to your old pal, Henki -

Henki is a guy who worked at Tourneau, worked for DOXA, consults with a few brands here and there and likes to think he's been around the block a few times. Henki also knows, to a certain extent, where watches and watch accessories come from. When it comes to winders, the motors (i.e. everything electronic that actually winds the watch) comes from China. Nothing wrong with that. While Henki makes some decent coin in the watch game, he is a Northern Youth, and a full-time educational social worker at his core and prefers not to drop a shit-ton of money on pretty things to sit on his desk or dresser that, at their heart, are simply meant to perform a function - keep an automatic watch wound when not being worn. Henki understands that some more established and expensive brands (Underwood, Orbita and others) cost significantly more, have a more solid track record and tend to offer better customer support. But, again, Henki would like to think that he is savvy enough to know that the motors are, most likely, from the same source. And here is where Henki has learned a very valuable lesson about the difference between what is said and what, in fact, is. 

Long story short - in terms of watch winders, it is now very clear to this guy that you get what you pay for. And now for one of the other glaring oddities about watch folks and how we prioritize our spending -

We have very little problem spending sometimes budget ruinous amounts of cash for YET ANOTHER WATCH, but balk at spending perhaps 3 times the amount of a bargain (read "soon to become useless motorized paper weight") winder on one that will actually work as advertised or be remedied by the company that sold it. It seems to be, if I am very honest, a ridiculous stumbling point. I'll put it another way - I am willing to presume that the difference between an Underwood or Orbita winder and the last few I've purchased is perhaps more than simply good marketing.

So the hunt is on now for a winder that will, I don't know, actually keep a watch wound for more than 6 months. So keep an eye on this outlet, as I am now on a mission - one I intend to report on rigorously.

Stay tuned!

Moon Phase Mondays - Auguste Reymond Jazz Age

Well, if I am honest with myself, I have to admit that "Mido on Monday" was a bit of a stinker (Mido, you could have been less helpful, but I'm hard pressed to think of how that might be possible). So we will reload and try something new - 

Moon Phase on Monday

So to kick things off, my personal all-time favorite, and one that always brings a smile to face when I think back upon picking it up at the Auguste Reymond head office back when it was in Tramelan.

This is the Jazz Age Chronograph Moon Phase.  Truth be told, I was never a huge fan of the naming conventions for the models, but names aside it is a fantastic watch.

The case for some is "modest" in size at 37.6 mm in diameter, but that is all part of its allure.  It is exactly large enough to house the Valjoux 7751. While there are no dramatic flourishes in the movement's finish, it is respectable and reserved - which honestly is in keeping with Auguste Reymond's ethos.  

I love the coin edge side case and the onion crown.

The hinge lugs are "semi-modern" in that while they have the look and feel of the original type, they are governed by a spring bar meaning that you can opt for the 18 mm strap of your choice.  

Which as you can see I did with a custom made purple ostrich strap from Lic of Belgium.  Now a quick point for full disclosure - I did represent Auguste Reymond in North America a few years ago, and I do currently represent Lic straps. And while I don't currently represent Auguste Reymond, I am still a fan and a proud owner! And now that there is "newish" ownership, I have faith that some really good things might be coming from the brand now based in Nidau, and I promise to keep you posted!

In checking out the Auguste Reymond online shop, it seems that there might be a few of these available, so if you're so inclined I would advise you to move "sharpish".

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case material 
Stainless steel

Crystal 
Domed sapphire

Case back 
Snap transparent

Water resistance 
3 bar (30m/100ft)

Case dimension (mm) 
37.6

Case thickness (mm) 
14.7

Strap width (mm) 
18/18

Movement type 
ETA Valjoux 7751

Power Reserve 
48 Hours

Strap 
Leather crocodile imitation

And until next time -

Don't let the moon phase you!

Heroes and Villains - The COVID / 2020 Edition - Best New Brand Launch

It's that time of year again, our semi-annual Heroes and Villains list.  While we might be a few days late for the naughty and nice list, I will be reviewing some standouts and stinkers this week.

So for today's "My Opinion As Fact" entry we're going to talk about the heroes!

Best New Brand Launch -

Stella Watch Company

Courtesy of Stella Watch Company

The new Stella Felix is, at least to this writer, the perfect combination of a high quality watch imbued with just the right amount of whimsey.  Yes, I realize that coming from your's truly this might seem a bit out of character.  

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

To paraphrase a quote that other great commentator on the watch business, Lenny Henry as Chef Gareth Blackstock in Chef -

"I am Henki, I am seriously unpleasant, I am a bastard."

Now a certain Europe based "colleague" will no doubt copy and paste that for global distribution ; )

The point is, I am not easily swayed, and it tends to take more than a goody bag and a press release to sway me. Curious to relate, I actually like new ideas that are put forward by people looking to actually create something, I don't know... interesting.

The Felix hits this on a few levels, but the dial design is at the forefront -

Courtesy of Stella Watch Company

I love the font, I love the shape of the hands, and I really like the round date window. The indices pop, and the use of different dial colors and pattern effects mean that there is far more on offer than the usual black or grey. And the price? It is REALLY fair - US $1,185.

But beyond just the watch, I have truly appreciated the launch approach that the brand owners - Marcella Dolan and Stephen Rowley have taken. 

Courtesy of Stella Watch Company

I first encountered them at the District Time show in DC.  Watch shows are full of people who are, unfortunately, full of themselves, as well as full of shit. And there were the two folks from Stella. Where most of us would strut about bending any ear that would listen as to how amazing our new watch was going to be, etc. here were two decidedly different types of folks - polite, friendly, asking questions and listening more than speaking. If you didn't press them, you would have no idea that they were in the process of a pretty impressive launch, or have an inkling to the depth of experience they had in the watch business. Hopefully they will offer a "how to" program for the aspiring out there hoping to follow in their footsteps.

And it seems that fortune, at least in this instance, has favored the worthy. A visit to the Stella website will inform you that sales have been brisk, and initial stocks are very low, and sold out in a few instances.

So congratulations to Stella Watch Company - Tempus Fugit's Best New Brand Launch for 2020!

The Daruma

From G-Shock -

Courtesy of G-Shock

This is one of the latest releases from G-Shock, and hits a very special "start/stop" button for this writer.

This series is styled after a Daruma doll. A few of us recent arrivals to Japan referred to them as Darumas for short and "to Daruma" became a bit of a loan-word verb. "I can't go to Morisaki tonight (local Kasukabe bar favored by foreign residents of the Northern Tokyo suburbs, particularly English teachers) I'm trying to Daruma my student loan" meant that you would forgo an evening's revelry to stick the money aside to pay down your student loan, save for a vacation, etc.

The Daruma's meaning would vary depending upon which local you asked, some would say "it's for good luck", others for "marking a journey", but the most consistent answer I got was that it was to mark the beginning and successful completion of an endeavor.  When you pick up your Daruma doll at your friendly neighborhood "Daruma-Mart" (widely available at large temple-type places as well as any tourist friendly area, and apparently now through Amazon), it will have 2 "unfilled" eyes.  When you start your project you will paint or draw in the first one.  When you have reached your goal or end point, you paint in the second eye -

Courtesy of Live Japan

The Daruma G-Shock series it is available in 3 versions, by my favorite is the DW5600DA-4.

For those of you who follow these things, this is based on the DW5600, which is the quintessential square face model -

Courtesy of G-Shock

Courtesy of G-Shock

And for me the coolest part is when the light button is engaged -

Courtesy of G-Shock

At $110 it is a fair bargain, and for those of you ready to "Daruma the Hell" out of 2021, here are the pertinents -

Features

• 
  EL Backlight with Afterglow

• 
  Shock Resistant

• 
  200M Water Resistant

  
  

  Specifications

  • Battery: CR2016
  • Approx. battery life: 2 years
  • Module: 3229
  • Shock Resistant 
  • 200 Meter Water Resistant 
  • EL Backlight with Afterglow 
  • Flash Alert Flashes with buzzer that sounds for alarms, hourly time signal, countdown timer time-up alarm
  • 1/100 second stopwatch Measuring capacity: 00’00.00”-59’59.99” (for the first 60 minutes) 1:00’00”-23:59’59” (after 60 minutes) Measuring unit: 1/100 second (for the first 60 minutes) 1 second (after 60 minutes) Measuring modes: Elapsed time, split time, 1st-2nd place times 
  • Countdown timer Measuring unit: 1 second Countdown range: 24 hours Countdown start time setting range: 1 second to 24 hours (1-second increments, 1-minute increments and 1-hour increments) Other: Auto-repeat

Making American Watchmaking Great Again...in Switzerland.

Okay,  a little back story and some inside baseball.  Following Hamilton, Waltham is perhaps the best known of the "original" made in America watch companies. Hamilton was slowly diluted and ultimately acquired and moved lock, stock and mainspring to Switzerland and is now part of the SWATCH Group. Despite what their crack marketing team would have you believe  the brand today is about as American as Nutella - you can buy it here, but you'll most likely go for strawberry jam or peanut butter. 

Waltham has had a much bumpier passage. It has been traded back and forth like a slightly damaged (not in mint condition) Spiderman Amazing Fantasy #15. 

Courtesy of Wikipedia

Sure, it's interesting, it has historical "what's it", but because it has been neglected, it is not going to fetch "new/mint in mylar" prices. A few folks tried to take whatever goofball idea that they had and slap the name Waltham on it and hope it would sell. And this has proven that there is more to a successful watch brand than simply a well-known brand name.

One thing that is known is that the Waltham name has been registered in one form or another by a few different entities, but the word around the campfire is that the actual rights to use the name in the manufacture and sale of watches belongs to one unique owner based in New York, and according to the TESS search system, it is M. Z. BERGER & CO.

So when news popped into the Tempus Fugit mail box this Boxing Day morning that the Waltham Depollier (or the Field & Marine) watch will be coming back - like Return of the Jedi (props to Mohandas Dewese - that's Kool Moe Dee to you), I was curious.

Here is the info just as it arrived -

Courtesy of Watch Angeles

The forerunner of the Dive Watch is coming back!
 

All dive watches watches owe their existence to the Waltham Depollier Waterproof "Field & Marine" Watch, the watch that started the waterproof market. 

In February 2021 a new chapter of the biggest story in American Watchmaking - Waltham Watches - will be Crowdmanufactured by Watch Angels.

Follow the project on our social medial channels and sign-up to participate.

And this is where, gentle reader, I have to admit that I am a bit, well, scoobied. Does this mean that the "Angels" at Watch Angels have struck a deal? Does it mean that the watch will bear the Waltham name, or the Depollier label?

And truly confusing, why use both names?

They are currently operating out of a website labeled: https://waltham.ch

And good news for all of you out there who believe in pixies - a truly nationalistic tag line to appeal to real red-blooded Americans -

Making American watchmaking great again.

And then if you read the top menu language, that apparently means - Making American watchmaking great again...in Switzerland.

Well, we will wait, and we will see.

In the meantime, for those of you seeking some interesting background on a real Waltham Trench Watch from a trained historian and actual archeologist, I highly recommend Dr. Jack Carlson's entry in A Man & His Watch.  Just promise me you won't buy it from Hodinkee ; )

A Christmas Memory - A Repeat of Sorts

I think we call all agree that 2020 has pretty much sucked beyond belief, but it has certainly given us all an opportunity to reflect. And no matter how bad a year it has been, like all bad times, we can and will get through it.

As it is Christmas Day here on the North Shore, I am wearing my "Christmas Watch".  And contrary to what the rapacious marketing and PR departments of Richemont, LVMH, Conde Nast and anyone else expecting people to go into 5 figure debt for that perfect "Christmas to Remember" timekeeper, I am rather attached to this (at least in terms of price) much more modest one -

It is safe to say that at several key moments in my "watch career" this watch has been with me. A quick bit of backstory - and apologies to those of you already familiar. Back in 2002 I was (in hindsight) kindly relieved of my responsibilities of running Intrax English schools - a group of 4 ESL schools headquartered in San Francisco with other schools in Menlo, San Diego and Chicago. It was literally the Ides of March.  It had been perhaps two of the most intense, up and down, stressful and ultimately failure riddled years of my career. It was the type of job that had me nervously up at just before 6:00, in the office by 8:00, usually not leaving until 7:30 and coming home shattered. My phone rang non-stop, all day long. I felt I did improve some things, but am honest enough with myself to know that I failed much more of the time. I had a pair of bosses who led with equal parts fear and praise. In hindsight, they really didn't know any better, and for many of us we embraced the idea of being pitted against one another in conspiratorial enterprises that would have put the contestants of Survivor to shame. It was do or die, sink or swim, be a winner or hit the bricks.  After two exhausting years of desperately trying to please them, alienating my own team, and constantly looking over my shoulder for the next knife to come out (yes, duplicitous behavior was not only encouraged, it was often rewarded), I was almost grateful when I was handed my walking papers. 

What followed next was perhaps the most uncertain time in my life. San Francisco was booming, plenty of companies were hiring, and I had a LOT of interviews. I kept making it to the final 2, and not getting the nod. It was pretty disheartening. I was finally hired by Starbucks and sent through their management trainee program. After two months there I was moved to a very busy store as assistant manager, and following that I was finally given the keys my own place as a "temporary" manager that November. And then 2 days before Christmas it was made official and I became the manager.  

That Christmas Wendy gave me the Junghans you see in this story. With it there was a note, telling me how far I'd come and that she was proud of me and that I should feel proud too. That following May I interviewed and got a position working in admissions at a college and slowly, but steadily clawed my way back into a career in education, and later back to running programs and being a leader of people - something I was terrified to take on after my career meltdown in San Francisco. When I put on this wonderful token of my wife's faith in me, I know that as bad as things get, I can get to the other side.

This particular watch for many readers might seem unremarkable.  It was sitting in the display case at Seregin's in San Francisco. It was not considered a high end piece, and was deeply discounted to around $125 or so. But to me it is priceless. 

Over the years this watch worked with me behind the sales counters at Tourneau, and accompanied me on my inaugural BaselWorld visit where I interviewed for the DOXA job. It has had a few straps and I think I finally found THE one that suits it best - an ostrich from Lic straps of Belgium.

Wearing it I am reminded that nothing in life is guaranteed, and nothing is permanent, and that sometimes when you get knocked flat on your ass, the best thing to do is to get back up on your feet and keep moving forward.

So while we struggle with the realities of 2020 and hope for things to get back to normal, please remember that we are all in this together and we will all get to the other side!

Hoping your holidays are happy, healthy and that 2021 is as magical as 2020 has not been.

Keep the faith -

Henki