Forget Everything You Thought You Knew

About Cartier -

Courtesy of Cartier

Cartier is one of those very unusual brands (at least in terms of watchmaking) that has managed to develop what could honestly be called a cult following of sorts. I can honestly say that I have not always understood this, but then again my introduction was behind the counter at Tourneau (version 1.0) in San Francisco at the turn of the century, at a time where discounting was rife, and the grey market was literally right across the street from us. We got A LOT of "faux" Cartier watches in for service (battery, etc.) that we could not service as they were not genuine. So it was hard to get enthusiastic as there was so much distraction from the actual products.

But just this past year, Cartier announced something that really got my attention -

Courtesy of Cartier

Cartier brought back the Tank Must this past Watches and Wonders, and while all of the excitement seemed to be focused on the new colorful versions, the more I think on it, the more excited I am by the SolarBeat Tank Must -

Courtesy of Cartier

Available in 2 sizes, it looks pretty familiar.  So what's the big deal?  I'm glad you asked!

Based on the name you have probably figured out that this is a solar powered watch. So the accuracy of quartz, without the worry or hassle of replacing the battery. But even better? The life expectancy of the solar cells (and this is an assumption) is over 15 years. I am basing this upon Cartier's proposed service interval of 15 - 16 years. This is a huge leap over the standard life spans of other solar powered watches, which is 8 - 10 years.  Per Cartier -

The pioneering Tank Must watch is at the heart of a double innovation: the Manufacture has succeeded in applying the photovoltaic principle to the Tank watch's dial without altering its aesthetic. This true technical feat relies on the perforation of Roman numerals, whose openings allow light to reach the photovoltaic cells hidden under the dial. It took two years for the development team to integrate this SolarBeat™ movement, with an average lifespan of 16 years, into the Tank Must, the first watch to benefit from this technology.

The other great thing is that Cartier is using biodegradable, vegetable based straps.
Again, per Cartier -

Another innovation: the strap made without animal materials that guarantees a high level of both quality and comfort for our clients, and contributes to reducing our carbon footprint.

Several other writers have mused on this, so forgive me if it's familiar. But the fact of the matter is that if the "masters" of yesteryear were alive and well and making watches today, they would insist on working with the latest available technology. More to the point - if I can get a "Vegan" / plant based strap that is as good as, if not even better than a leather one, then I will ditch the leather in a heartbeat. Wear it out, and drop it in your compost bucket!

At any rate, I am a fan!

Social Distance and Lingering Wishes

So we're in Official Day 2 of social distance/ self isolation.  As mentioned, it's a good time to think about the stuff that you want to do when we all get the all clear.

Right up there on the list is to see my friends who I missed / will miss this year owing to the cancelations of watch related travel.  But Wendy surprised me with this wonderful "rainy day" reading -

And in reading, I got to the topic of Cartier, and thought I'd take the opportunity to have a virtual visit with my friend Rod.  And Rod was kind enough to forward some images of what I often think of as "the one that got away".

Courtesy of Rod

This is the Cartier Tank Basculante.

Back around the turn of the century, Cartier came out with two watches that, for whatever reason, never quite caught on with the public at large.  The Tank Basculante and the Roadster.  The Roadster came in around the time I was working at Tourneau.  And that watch was catnip.  At that time I sold that, and the Pasha like they were pre-owned Panerais.  Didn't need to really even sell, just take the credit card and bring the receipt to the customer.  In hindsight, I guess it was pretty polarizing as it was not in the traditional Cartier wheelhouse.  Moreover, while it seemed massively innovative (being able to swap from bracelet to leather strap with just your fingers), if I am not mistaken that was something that Michele watches was already available. 

Just prior to that time, the Basculante hit the 
scene -

Courtesy of Rod

This was a departure.  It was not the traditional Cartier designs found.  It was also cool because of the way that the case could be flipped to cover the watch face much in the same way as the Reverso and the (now consigned to the dustbin of horological history) Favre Leuba.

Courtesy of Rod

Hand to God, I don't know why this one didn't catch on and remain in the collection.  And curious to relate, I am not on the speed dial list for Cartier's product development team, so they are not exactly hotly pursuing my idea of re-issuing this one again ; )

Courtesy of Rod

Long story short, I will need to keep scouring the pre-owned, pre-loved sources.

For now, stay home, stay safe, and enjoy your watches!