Wrapping up Seven Days with the Anonimo Epurato

Courtesy of Aonimo

Inevitably, this was going to be personal, and in many ways it is a review I have been wanting to do since 2003.  To give you a brief stroll down memory lane, I was a freshly minted watch sales guy at a newly christened Tourneau in San Francisco.  Like many enthusiasts suddenly entrusted to impart knowledge to the "great unwashed" I quickly became "that guy".  The one constantly offering feedback when (quite frankly) the feedback wasn't requested or wanted ; )

But I did have one very serious, somewhat dramatic blind spot, and that was Anonimo.  Now remember, this was 2003 and Panerai was scalding-hot.  Probably every fourth customer who walked through the door wanted one.  Also interesting to relate, even though we were Tourneau, we were not allowed to sell them as they were already represented by Shreeve a few blocks away.  Now while I did know a bit about Panerai, in all honesty I knew precious little about Anonimo.  And at the risk of sounding uncharitable, this was not helped by the people calling the shots at Anonimo at the time.  A little inside baseball, the North American distributor lived a 15 minute BART ride away, just across the bay and spotting him at our store was about as likely as spotting Big Foot.  Most of the marketing info. about Anonimo was not well written, and somewhat poorly conceived.  And the quality issues and service record of Anonimo both locally and at HQ are probably best not spoken of again.  

BUT 

Out of necessity came motivation.  I quickly realized was that no matter how much I wanted to sell Panerai (because that was a guaranteed sale with a juicy commission), I would only be able to sell pre-owned ones.  So I spent my down-time digging into whatever I could find on Anonimo.  I plowed through as much info as was out there, and I came to a few very clear conclusions.  For someone wanting to buy Panerai based on the mystique of a Florentine watch maker?  Well they were looking at the wrong brand because frankly, that company did not exist any longer.  If you wanted that original (albeit a generation removed) Florentine time keeper, you wanted an Anonimo.  I also learned that the first iteration of Anonimo was like that bittersweet relationship you might have had in your younger days - he/she was beautiful, exciting, quirky.  The type to borrow your car while you are out of town for the weekend, use it to drive to meet an old flame who just "happened to be in town", get five parking tickets in two and a half days, and manage to roll it into a ditch, pushing it back to your place with an empty gas tank and a dented roof. 

But you still kept coming back ; )

So needless to say, this was a somewhat challenging sales pitch.  But, I managed to sell quite a few of them, and I kept an eye on them once I moved on from Tourneau.  And suffice it say, the ride was bumpy.  Anonimo changed hands more than once, and never really seemed to catch on as it might have.  There was plenty to recommend it.  The Militare had the really cool design with the crown at 12 o'clock.  There was also the Kodiak strap.  Which, as we're on the topic, should be brought back!

I came into contact with Anonimo again at BaselWorld 2013, where a new ownership team had taken over and a bond had been forged with Dino Zei.  There was buzz, excitement, a book launch, and then... money issues.  And the brand became an orphan once more. 

And then a new owner came in, and again, to be charitable, let's just say it took several years for the novelty of owning a watch brand to wear off, and the realization that they actually had to make something interesting began to set in.  Several different models were tried, offered, and discarded.  

And that brings us up to a few weeks ago.  I had posted about a new Anonimo model and the folks at Anonimo (albeit locally) came back and said something to the effect of - You certainly seem to have an opinion about these watches, but have you ever worn one?

And they had me there, I had not.  So it was agreed that I would take one for a test drive, no holds-barred and report back.

So here we go - but first, just a bit more back story -

If I understand correctly, Mr. Zei left the party back in 2015,  and I have to be honest, this hurts.  I only met him once, and spoke briefly.  He was kind, generous and patient.  Things you don't always find in abundance in the watch industry.  And I guess if my time at Tourneau was the first kiss, meeting Mr. Zei was the second one.  From that point on, I wanted to have an Anonimo of his design, but it never quite worked out.  For me, and for a lot of folks, it is hard to disengage the Anonimo of today with what preceded it.  And in fairness, that is okay.  These were watches that, essentially, tried to pick up where Panerai left off before they were spirited north to Switzerland, leaving behind some key personnel, some machines and an opportunity.  As mentioned previously, I do not know that the opportunity was ever fully realized.  But I also know from the crazy Anonimisti out there (and I mean crazy in the very best possible way), the Anonimo pioneers really started something.  And after a week, I can safely say that it now seems that the current stewards of Anonimo not only understand what was started, but are picking up and moving forward in a very positive direction.

Now the days of a Florence based Anonimo are gone.  Anonimo is made in Switzerland these days.  The model sent to me for review was the Epurato.  This particular variation is the Epurato Steel with galvanic blue sunray dial.  

The case is of (you guessed it) stainless steel.  It measures 42 mm in diameter, and has a transparent/display case back. 

You will note the Anonimo logo features as part of a cut-out design on the rotor.  The Epurato is rated to a depth of five atmospheres which means it is water resistant, but not designed or meant for excursions to the briny deep. 

  
Speaking of the rotor, it is attached (as you might imagine) to the movement which is the Sellita SW200.

You will also notice the button protruding from the strap near the lug.  Anonimo opted to use "quick change" straps for the Epurato, which makes sense as it is a bit more of a "dry land" watch and will lead to the desire to have several looks. 

The crown is solid, tactile and smooth in operation.  It is not a screw-down crown, meaning that the Epurato relies on gaskets and smart case design to keep things water-tight to five atm.  The crown functioned very smoothly in terms of setting and winding.  You will also notice the crown guard, subtle, gradually sloping up from the case in an organic shape that truly flatters the design.

But what really speaks to me about the Epurato is more than just the sum of its parts.  On the whole, it simply looks smashing.  There are design elements from previous Anonimo (and other) watches, but at the same time it is unique, and pleasingly so.  The dial is open and legible.  The date is actually readable, which as I draw closer to the half-century mark becomes more and more of a priority.  And something else - the use of the 08 and 04 markers helps to solidify the new Anonimo design codes.  It is consistent with the Militare, and occupies the same space that two oversized markers use with the Nautilo.  In other words, there is finally a consistent Anonimo design vocabulary.

And last but not least -

The coin edge bezel.  It gives it an undeniable something special.

The strap is secured with a solid and well executed buckle -

All in all, it is a visual treat.

But how did it wear?

Phenomenally well!  Part of the secret is that the Epurato offers the necessary "surface space" with a 42 mm case, but it does not sit like a hockey puck on the wrist.  Part of this is due to the curved lugs, but part of it is also down to the rational case thickness.  This is designed to be an elegant watch, and it is just that.  

The watch covered the requisite space on my wrist without being too large, and owing to the aforementioned more modest case thickness, it was a joy to wear.

And how did it perform?

The timekeeping was bang on the whole way through, with a mild deviation only on the first day that I wore it.  The face was wonderfully visible and easy to read.  

Watches, at least for some of us, are far too often a very hyper-romanticized thing.  It is very, very hard for us to apply rational thought and patient logic to some things.  And in the past, Anonimo had been one of those things.  And as an "alleged" journalist, it would be very hard for me to put into words just why I fell in love with the original Anonimo.  It just wasn't rational.

BUT -

The new Anonimo watches, and in particular the Epurato are very easy to understand not only from an emotional, but practical perspective.  Attractive, well made, and highly functional.  These are keepers, and it seems finally that Anonimo has refound its voice!

In short?  YES! I WANT ONE!

All in all, this was a very real treat and I am indebted to the folks at Anonimo to give me a chance to try one out.  This is a special watch, and like the original Anonimos, it is not for that guy or gal who is going to get hung up on either owning a Panerai or owning nothing.  This is for the person who knows something special  when they see it.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -


Case

• 42 mm
• Stainless steel
• Cushion shape
• Water resistant: 5 ATM
• Polished bezel
• Dial: Galvanic blue Sunray dial
• Domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating
• Swiss Luminova hands

Movement

• Swiss Made
• Sellita SW200
• Automatic winding
• Power reserve 38 hours
• Glass case back with decorated skeleton rotor
• Date at 6 o'clock

Bracelet

• Brown-maroon T.MORO gradient effect calf leather
• Tongue buckle

Thinking Back on Anonimo

So I have about two days left with my test drive of the Anonimo Epurato and was feeling a bit reflective on the journey that Anonimo has made as a brand, and of my experiences covering it.

Perhaps the high point for me so far was meeting Dino Zei during BaselWorld back in 2012 -

For me, and for many out there, our appreciation for Anonimo is not really based in the rational.  Anonimo has been a brand that has, for me at least, functioned pretty much exclusively on an emotional level.  Because had I been applying the same standards to them that I applied to other brands?  Well, let's just say I wouldn't be writing this now ; )


I don't want to spoil the remainder of the review, so that is all I will say for now.  But this past week has stirred up a lot of memories about Anonimo and about Dino Zei.  So it seemed like a good time to reheat this one -

A few minutes with Dino Zei

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man!  And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -


James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it.  It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand.  I only remember how important that watch was for me.  I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money.  When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.

JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?

DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of  “craftsmanlike” companies.   Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative.  These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market.  The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales.  Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors.  For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.


JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up.  I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason.  Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation.  I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea.  And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo.  The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea.  The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me.  Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence).  Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative.  But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile.  For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men.  In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 

JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct?  How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority.  Military life is always marked by time.  Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal.  But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.

JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?

DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches.  Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.

JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?

DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group.  It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market.  The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book:  "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts".  I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources.  Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do.  All interesting, some prestigious.

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?

DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife.  I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her.  I continue dealing with this with great pleasure.  Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.

JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change?

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out.  I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.

Seven Days with the Anonimo Epurato

Starts now.