Showing posts with label Jumping Hours. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jumping Hours. Show all posts

Thursday, July 14, 2016

The IO Jumping Hours Central Tourbillon

From Hysek -

Courtesy of Hysek

The case is 45 mm in diameter and is of 18K rose gold.  

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT:

§  Hysek HW20 caliber
§  Automatic, mechanical
§  Central flying tourbillon
§  24-hour jumping hours
Rose des Vents decoration
§  322 components
§  48 jewels
§  45-hour power reserve + 3 hours
§  Frequency: 28,800 vph

DIAL:

§  Manufactured in-house
§  Constructed on two levels, the base serving as a bridge for the disc system
§  Finish: circular satin, followed by bevelling. PVD coating

CASE:

§  Dimensions: 45mm x 11.4mm
§  Circular
§  18-carat rose gold
§  Sapphire crystal, non-reflective coating
§  Waterproof up to 30 metres

STRAP:

§  Folding clasp
§  Alligator strap


Friday, January 30, 2015

When Hours Jump

Introducing the new Jumping Hours from Speake-Marin.
Courtesy of Speake-Marin
Because they were nice enough to send such a comprehensive press release, here it is!  Straight, no chaser:


Past, present and future: Symbolic concepts of time continually passing. Time is valuable but also fleeting, and although we can define it, we cannot control it. Jumping Hours, part of Speake-Marin’s Cabinet des Mystères collection, highlights the transient nature of this most intangible commodity. Four separate jump hour indications, each controlled by its own gilded star wheel, are a constant reminder of the ceaseless passing of time.

As we age, the hours, minutes and seconds that make up the days appear to grow shorter and shorter, and time seems to speed up. As a child, time is endless but as an adult, it slips quickly through the cracks.

Peter Speake-Marin found inspiration in the past to show this relentless march of time. Based on the jump hour star system invented over 150 years ago, the British watchmaker deconstructed this vintage complication four times to display the inescapable passing of time, where hours literally “jump,” advancing from one to the next in the apparent blink of an eye.


The Speake-Marin Jumping Hours contains four small, Foundation-style, bluedsteel hour hands. Each of these exquisitely crafted hands is placed in a separate quadrant of a beautifully finished silver dial at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock respectively. The individual hands are set atop their own brilliant, gilded star wheel, which “jumpsevery 15 minutes when a tiny pin – located at each wheel’s centre – sequentially pushes one star wheel after the other as the blued-steel central minute and second hands perpetually march forward.

In a neat touch, synchronised with this changing of the hours is the appearance of a tiny red dot on the centre plate at each quarter hour mark. Every 15 minutes, a small circular hole near the base of the minute hand lines up with the red dot, indicating that the hour has “jumped
"On the Speake-Marin Jumping Hours, you have this continual animation as the minute hand goes around so that there is always something moving," says Peter Speake-Marin. “The idea is to show the speed at which time passes.” 

The Jumping Hours "dial" is actually the top of the movement mainplate. The movement, crafted from traditional German silver, features circular-grained bridges and plates with hand polished bevels. The distinct curvature of the bridges gives the illusion that the dial is moving in step with the hour hands as time strides forward.

So as not to distract from the action of each passing hour, there are no numerals on the dial. Instead, subtly drilled minute markers are neatly arranged around the perimeter of the mainplate. The silver dial contrasts beautifully with the 18k red gold bezel. A matching red gold fluted crown and caseback adds an extra touch of classic Speake-Marin style. Serif style text in capital letters is hand-engraved inside the minute markers an elegant touch and reminiscent of another era.

Visible through the display back is Jumping Hours’ Eros automatic-winding movement with long five-day power reserve and Speake-Marin’s signature ‘topping tool’ mystery winding rotor. Hand engraved around the caseback are “Unique Piece” and “Mechanical Art No. 2”.

Jumping Hours’ evolution of time is all housed in the iconic, 42mm red gold and stainless steel Piccadilly case. The entire piece was constructed, machined, hand- finished, assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker.

The Speake-Marin Jumping Hours is a unique piece. 


Features and Indications:
Central minutes and seconds
4 sequential jump hour mechanisms
Automatic-winding movement with 5-day power reserve


Dial and Hands:
Speake-Marin signature Foundation-style hands in heat blued steel, indicating hours, minutes and seconds

Movement:
Automatic-winding Eros movement Dimensions: 30.40mm x 4.35mm Power reserve: 120 hoursJewels: 35
Twin barrels
Frequency: 28,800vph / 4Hz
Speake-
Marin signature ‘topping tool’ mystery winding rotor Hand-finished bridges and rotor

Case and strap:
Iconic Piccadilly case in red gold and stainless steel
Three-piece case construction

Two-position crown: 
Manual winding and stop-second time setting Dimensions: 42mm x 13 mmFront and displayback: sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating 
Case-back circumference engraving: “Speake-Marin – The Piccadilly” 
Water resistance: 3atm/30m/100ft
Hand-made, natural alligator leather strap
Pin buckle in stainless steel 

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Fonderie 47 Helps Beat Swords into Plowshares

...and they shall beat their swords into plowshares, and their spears into pruning hooks: nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither shall they learn war any more. — Isaiah 2:3-4

Okay, sorry to get all "Biblical" on you, but I think the idea of peace is one we (ALL OF US) as human beings have long struggled with.  And I want to be clear right off the bat that this post is not pro or anti gun rights in the US.  This blog is not political.

BUT - with the Tempus Fugit Innitiative I have been looking for watch companies that are going out of their way to help change the world for the better.  So hats off to Fonderie 47!  Fewer assault rifles in the hands of warlords and boy soldiers, and clean, safe drinking water?  How could you not get behind that!

Here's the news, straight from the source -
Courtesy of Fonderie 47
Inversion Principle by Fonderie 47

Central Three-Minute Flying Tourbillion, Instantaneous Jumping Hours with Quick-Set Pusher, 240° Retrograde Minutes, Lateral and Back Power Reserve Indicators.
Courtesy of Fonderie 47
Inversion Principle is a completely original timepiece, designed by Adrian Glessing and developed and produced by David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois exclusively for Fonderie 47.
Revenues from the sale of each timepiece will be used to fund the destruction of one thousand assault weapons in Africa, creating a safer environment for aid and development. This is a strategy that Peter Thum already implemented successfully in creating Ethos Water to fund clean water projects in Africa and around the world.

While Inversion Principle is first and foremost a very exclusive haute horlogerie timepiece, subtle elements and mechanisms discreetly feature key attributes of the AK47. Each timepiece incorporates a plate on the back made from the transformed steel of a destroyed assault weapon.
Courtesy of Fonderie 47
“Inversion Principle had to reflect the finest Swiss watchmaking traditions; our principles and our mission; and be truly innovative all at the same time. That was no easy task, but thanks to a great team, I think we well and truly achieved that aim.” Peter Thum (Fonderie 47 founder)

Inversion Principle: Orbiting on high above the movement, the central 3-minute flying tourbillon dominates the three-dimensional dial and mesmerizes the eye. Three second-hands, equally spaced 120° apart around the tourbillon cage, arc sedately across the seconds-scale above the tourbillon and 'Fonderie 47': 'Sedately' because tourbillon revolves at just 1/3 of the speed of a traditional one-minute tourbillon. While only one second-hand is visible at any time − the other two are hidden under the gold rifle-sight inspired frame set into the sapphire crystal − their positions are revealed by blued screws joining the outer tourbillon cage and inner three-arm hub.

“I feel one of the biggest achievements of this timepiece is the very logical way you read the time.” Adrian Glessing (Inversion Principle designer)

A first, or even a second, glance is unlikely to divulge any obvious similarity between jumping hours, retrograde seconds and an AK47; however, avoiding blatantly obvious connections is the aim. On a more ethereal level however, gun mechanisms snap sharply and precisely into place: As does the instantaneous jumping hour at 12 o'clock as it changes the hour; and the large 240° retrograde seconds hand as it flies back to zero each hour across the bottom of the dial. Each press of the quick-set pusher in the crown advances the jumping hours by one hour.

The long 6-day power reserve has both a lateral indication via a sapphire window set into the left side of the case band and a second indication visible through the display back.

The display back reveals the stunning sunray guilloche pattern radiating out from the ratchet wheel, which is capped by a dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47. The plate is in the form of the Fonderie 47 symbol and rotates as the watch is wound. '56-3701F42', the serial number of the destroyed weapon the metal is from, is elegantly hand engraved beside the plate.
Courtesy of Fonderie 47
“A mentor taught me what he thought generated the fundamental values of watchmaking: The eye; the hand; and the heart. These are values that guide my work. A timepiece built around these values generates powerful emotions.” David Candaux (Inversion Principle watchmaker)

Inversion Principle is a limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in white gold and 10 in red gold.

Inversion Principle in detail

"Inversion Principle is the result of a group of extremely talented people willing to do things others deemed impossible, risking something of themselves in the undertaking." Peter Thum

Movement

When Fonderie 47 founder Peter Thum first approached watchmaker/movement designer David Candaux, it was with a very ambitious request many said was impossible: Create a completely original and distinctive complicated high-end watch using the best of traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques… and it should incorporate aspects of the AK47 rifle, but without obviously looking like an AK47 style watch.

With a three-minute central flying tourbillon, instantaneous jumping hours and retrograde minutes that snap into place in sharp, precise actions similar to gun mechanisms, and a lateral power reserve indication providing a discreet visual link to the ejection port of an AK47, Candaux delivered all that and more.

"Fonderie 47 has allowed us to create a unique timepiece, not simply for the purpose of creating a luxury watch, but for a noble purpose." David Candaux (watchmaker)

Seen through a display back, the back of the movement features a stunning sunray guilloche pattern radiating out from the dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47 that covers the ratchet wheel. This plate turns when the watch is wound. An opening to the right of the plate offers access to adjust the power reserve mechanism, while a second small opening near the crown reveals part of the winding mechanism. The second power reserve indicator arcs across the top of the back plate.

Dial

Inversion Principle's three-dimensional indications, rise from the 240° numbers on the flat retrograde minutes ring to the inner inclined minute markers. The blued minute hand has an inclined inner arrow following the angle of the minute marker track.

The three-handed seconds indicator on the tourbillon cage has a retrograde effect complimenting the minutes: The hands disappear after 60 on the right and appear to reappear at 0 on the left.

On either side of the jumping hour window, past and future hours can just be discerned through the translucent crystal ring that circumscribes the dial.

Case

Ensuring that the complex indications were both easy and logical to read, and that the case and dial blended harmoniously was the role of Geneva-based watch designer, Adrian Glessing.

"We strived to represent the most classical; the most beautiful; and the most technical aspects of what the Swiss industry had to offer, and put it all into one watch." Adrian Glessing (designer)

Myriad details, from the obvious like the gun-sight inspired bezel cross piece delineating the minutes from the central tourbillon to the subtle, like the tapering indents set into the flowing lugs, which visually minimize the height of the case height and the curve of the tourbillon cage following the curve of the sapphire crystal, all contribute to convey luxury and quality.



Inversion Principle Technical Specifications

Limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in 18k white gold, 10 in 18k red gold

Key features: Central three-minute flying tourbillon; instantaneous jumping hours; 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds from tourbillon cage; crown pusher quick-set hour adjustment; six-day power reserve with both lateral and back indications; metal from transformed assault weapon.

Created by: David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois

Designed by: Adrian Glessing

Place of Manufacture: La Vallée de Joux, Switzerland

Indications: Jumping hours, 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds on tourbillon cage; lateral power reserve indicator on case band and power reserve indicator on back

Case and strap
Material: 18k white gold or 18k red gold
Sapphire crystal traversed by embedded gold bezel bridge framing tourbillon cage
Lateral sapphire window in case band for power reserve indicator
Dimensions: 42mm x 14.6mm
Water resistance: 30m/100’/3ATM
Dial: Translucent glass and sapphire crystal with enameled minutes and seconds
Strap and clasp: hand stitched alligator strap with gold pin buckle matching case. Brown leather with red gold case or black leather with white gold case

Movement
Caliber F47-001
Regulator: Central three-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: gold counter weight and curved to follow sapphire crystal
Jumping hour: thin mechanism (patented)
Retrograde seconds: mechanism with light aluminum arm and precision regulator
LIGA plate: platform for tourbillon and fixed seconds wheel by Mimotech
Power reserve: six days
Balance frequency: 18,000bph (2.5Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet overcoil and distinctive balance spring stud
Jewels: 38
Steel plate from transformed AK47 − serial number '56-3701F42' − in form of the Fonderie 47 symbol on ratchet wheel visible through display back.
Finishing: Sun ray guilloche; hand engraving; hand polished bevels; heat-blued screws and power reserve indicator on back.

 Fonderie 47 background


Fonderie 47 − 'fonderie' is French for foundry (for melting and casting metal),'47' for AK47 − was founded in 2009 by Peter Thum with the goal of reducing the number of destabilizing assault weapons in Africa. Thum realized the enormous problem these weapons created, having met boys and young men armed with assault rifles, and the victims of these weapons, while developing clean water projects in east Africa.

There are millions of assault weapons in Africa. A large majority of these are AK47 variants. In Africa, assault rifles cost about 70% less than anywhere else in the world. While prices of AK47s have generally risen worldwide over the last three decades, they have fallen in Africa due to the sheer number of weapons and ease of availability.

Thum decided to transform these implements of devastation into something as removed from them and as positive as possible, i.e. exclusive objects that would inspire change and fund the destruction of weapons.

The mission to create a high-end mechanical watch incorporating metal from a destroyed AK47 began even before Fonderie 47 was founded, because it quickly became clear that the development and production of a completely original complicated haute horlogerie timepiece would take many years.

Fonderie 47 has also worked with some of the world’s best designers and jewelers to create artistic pieces made from AK47 steel, precious metals and jewels.

Working with the Nobel Prize winning NGO Mines Advisory Group, to date Fonderie 47 has funded the destruction of over 30,000 assault rifles in war zones in Africa.

Profile Peter Thum, founder of Fonderie 47

Fonderie 47 CEO and founder Peter Thum began his business career with Gallo Winery and McKinsey & Company before becoming a social entrepreneur. Visits to Africa highlighted the widespread health issues caused by the lack of clean water and led Thum to launch the bottled water brand 'Ethos Water' in 2003 to fund safe-water projects in Africa. Starbucks bought Ethos Water in 2005 and after the sale, Thum served as Vice President of Starbucks Corporation, operating the Ethos Water business, and as a Director of the Starbucks Foundation. Ethos Water has helped around half a million people around the world to gain access to safe water, sanitation and hygiene education.

While visiting safe water projects in Africa, Thum became aware of the problems caused by widespread availability of assault rifles, in particular the ubiquitous AK47. He decided to launch a luxury brand − something sending a positive message and far removed from the destructive arms − the profits from which would be used to destroy and eliminate these weapons. In 2009 Fonderie 47 was launched, a venture that transforms AK47s from Africa into rare jewelry and exclusive high-end Swiss timepieces, which in turn fund the destruction of more weapons − over 30,000 destroyed to date.

Peter Thum also founded and is President of the non-profit Giving Water, which has helped over 6,000 schoolchildren in Africa to gain water and sanitation access and is Board Director of The Fund for Global Human Rights and an adviser to FEED Projects.

http://fonderie47.com  
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