Pulling Me Back

While I have not always been enamored of absolutely everything that Girard-Perregaux has offered ups these past few years, I have to say that when they stick to their grammar, that is when they offer the sort of things that make them (at least in my eyes) Girard-Perregaux, there is no finer watch out there.  And the stainless steel 1966 ticks all of those boxes.

Courtesy of Girard Perregaux

It is beautiful in its simplicity.  12 indices, a legible date window, and an understated elegance that is beguiling.

Other brands have made their stainless interpretations of dress watches, and in all honesty I can't say that I "get them".  This watch, however, is "another piece of toast".  It is special.


Here are the specs -

Material : Steel
Diameter : 40.00 mm
Height : 8.90 mm
Case-back : Sapphire crystal
Water resistance : 30 metres (3 ATM)
Movement : GP03300-0030, self-winding mechanical movement
Calibre : 11 ½’’’
Jewels : 27
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hour, minute, second, date

NOW - when this watch first launched I said some things that you might feel contradictory to the comments above.  In fact, I still stand by what I said then.  This is not a retraction, rebuttal or re-framing.  And if I do have an issue, it is about pricing.  But - and this is a big but - I do not see ANY of the "manufacturers" coming to any clear sense of reality in terms of what things really should be priced at, and the great stocks of unsold watches no longer being soaked up by the Chinese market bear that out.  So to that extent, GP is in the same company as the others.

And sometimes it is safe to say that we love watches despite the price.  And for me, this is one of them.

And this watch is beautiful.  At 40 mm it is a welcome return to rationality in terms of proportion.  It is a watch that will be worn - not hidden in a vault.  And it is the type of watch that will be proudly handed down to the next generation.

At times I have to remind myself why I REALLY write about this stuff.  It is not to do market analysis, deconstruct celebrity endorsements or crow about how much I know.  Truth be told, I write about watches because I love watches.  And when viewed on its own merits - as a watch, this is one that I appreciate.

It's hard not to be romantic about watches.

1966 Large Date and Moon Phases

From Girard-Perregaux

Courtesy of Girard Perregaux

This is the latest from the folks in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a beautiful new member to the 1966 series.

Available in either pink or white gold, the case measure 41 mm. The dial is opaline, featuring a large date just under the 12 o'clock marker.  The moon phase rests in the lower section of the dial, sharing space with a small second hand.

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

Sapphire crystal top, as well as a sapphire crystal display back.

The movement is Girard-Perregaux's GP03300-0110. It is self-winding, mechanical measuring 25.6 mm in diameter, and is 4.90 mm in height. 32 jewels, 28,800 Vib/h. It boasts a power reserve of 46 hours.

The strap is of black alligator, with a matching buckle of pink or white gold.

Prices listed are:

49546-52-131-BB60 (pink gold)             $24,360.00

49546-53-132-BB60 (white gold)           $26,060.00

Enamel 1966 from Girard-Perregaux

Three new enamel dial 1966 models were announced yesterday.  Each piece measures 40 mm in diameter and the case is crafted of pink gold.  The dials are enamel, with diamond indices.

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

'The Map', 'The World' and 'Pur Sang' are the three newest members of the 1966 stable.  Each of the three versions is limited to 50 pieces.

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

Working with enamel is not easy.  In fact I have been told that it is a monumental pain in the ass to work with - not unlike certain bloggers ; )

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

I remember art class in middle school, making a "trivet".  I was all bent out of shape because it required two trips to the kiln to fire.  I was convinced it would be one of the "victims" of a pottery explosion.  Luckily it survived intact.

Okay, well take that anxiety and multiply it by several hundred.  In making the dial, the "base" portion of it is covered in white enamel, and then one by one, the different colors are applied - with the use of a microscope to ensure precision.  After each application, the dial goes "back in to oven".  After numerous trips to the kiln, the entire dial is covered with a final layer of transparent enamel.

The results speak for themselves.  There is, of course much more detail to the process, but you get the basic idea.

The movement is GP's GP03300-0060 self-winding movement.  For those unfamiliar, here are the movement specs straight from the source:

Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0060
Mechanical, self-winding movement

Diameter: 25.60 mm (11½''')
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 26
Functions: hour, minute

The watch is paired with a black alligator strap with a pink gold buckle.

An appointment to keep

So, I am setting myself an appointment.  I have set myself a personal target, and when I have reached it, I will be off to purchase one of these -

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

While I was updating the GP pages on Chronometers.org - www.chronometers.org I came upon this wonderful piece again.  Certainly not an impulse purchase so planning will be key!

Yes, Patek Philippe makes a fine watch, and there is certainly nothing wrong with Breguet, or any of the others for that matter.  But having seen one of these being put together, seeing how things work at Girard-Perregaux from start to finish... let's just say I won't be accepting any substitutes ; )