Flying into MUC, Bringing in My Personal AP... Please Mr. Custom's Man, Don't You Check My Bag

Okay, cute and snappy title, huh? And yes, it is a bit sarcastic. BUT, the sarcasm is actually directed at the situation, not Mr. Schwarzenegger.

For those of you few watch enthusiasts around the world who slept the last 48 hours, here's a quick link from the Guardian -

https://www.theguardian.com/film/2024/jan/17/arnold-schwarzenegger-detained-munich-airport-over-luxury-watch

Courtesy of CNN.com (Arnold Schwarzenegger was held at Munich airport after failing to declare an expensive watch. Portions of this image were obscured by the source before CNN obtained it.)

Now let's dive right in, shall we? Essentially, Mr. Schwarzenegger was transiting through Munich Airport en route to Kitzbuhel, Austria where he was scheduled to auction off his AP watch with the proceeds to his climate crisis charity.

The statement from the customs folks in Germany was that Mr. Schwarzenegger failed to declare the watch, further that it was an "import", and thus subject to tax. Now this is a point that I am actually in agreement with. If the contention of the tax man is that because the watch was coming into the EU, and would be sold in the EU (albeit for altruistic reasons)

and would therefore be taxable, then fair enough. 

But where (from my naive, American perspective) things got a little goofy was the stern statement from the customs office as cited from the Guardian's article:

A customs spokesperson told Sueddeutsche Zeitung: “If the goods remain in the EU, you have to declare them through customs. This applies to everyone, whether their name is Schwarzenegger or Müller, Meier, Huber.”

Not really sure what the snark from the customs spokesperson was in aid of, because by all accounts, Mr. Schwarzenegger cooperated completely, did not make a fuss or pitch a fit even though the efforts to collect the pre-payment of taxes and fines went more than a bit sideways...

Per CNN's coverage:

The actor agreed to pre-pay potential taxes on the watch and the officers failed to use a credit card machine for an hour until they gave up and brought him to a bank and asked him to withdraw cash from an ATM to pay, according to the source. The ATM they brought him to had a limit too low and the bank was closed.

When he returned, a new officer brought a new credit card machine that worked, the source added.

Now by and large, I am a rule follower. And I understand and respect that when we travel, we are guests in someone else's home. I also understand that many of my European colleagues have one mode of behavior at home, and a different one when abroad - as do we all, I suspect. 

So we've all learned something... maybe... 

We will likely never fully know the nuance or even letter of the law of ever country we may visit, but when it comes to watches, probably best to simply wear a Swatch and avoid the headaches.

Enjoy your watches...at home ; )

The Ring is the Thing, A Few Minutes With Mark Gold

I first met Mark Gold in person at the last BaselWorld in 2019. Needless to say, he makes quite an impression, as do his designs.  He was kind enough to spare me a few minutes recently to talk about his latest collaboration with James Thompson (the Black Badger).

Courtesy of the Black Badger and Mark Gold

So before anything else, tell us about this new ring, the Stars n Stripes High Roller. You and James (Black Badger) Thompson collaborated on this, correct? 

Yes the new ring which was released right during the middle of the US elections actually had nothing to do with the elections at all and was purely coincidental timing. 

The ring and box were a collaboration in design and the manufacturing all took place in South Africa in our laboratory. The various components were made from a combination of aviation grade superalloys, anodised to the relevant colours (blue and red) and then assembled around a surgical grade stainless steel core which allows the mechanism to move freely. The ring then went to James in Sweden for him to add his magical glow. The result is great

Can you tell us how this project got started?

Yes that's an interesting one ... 

Obviously during lockdown we concentrated quite heavily on connecting and reaching out to people including fellow designers. Zoom calls became the norm for a while and we made some good contacts and met interesting people. Much of our work is with James ... aka Blackbadger. He has a great personality, is well connected and really good at what he does so some doors started opening for both of us.

And the ring is for someone a few people out there might have heard of - Arnold Schwarzenegger.  How did you and he get connected?

We made a ring for a personal friend of James and he loved it. Turns out he is a personal friend of Arnold Schwarzenegger who saw the ring and asked if we could make him one too. "Hell yeah, anything for Arnold". The man is a legend in so many ways.

And this is not the first celebrity to put a Mark Gold creation on his finger, can you tell us about the ring a certain Avenger has been spotted wearing?

Again, a total collaboration with James and I would probably say that RDJ was the first really big name that we made a ring for in our collaborations.

Tell us about how you and James Thompson came together

Honestly, that's a crazy story ... I mean here are two guys on opposite sides of the planet (Sweden and South Africa) doing similar things but coming from completely different angles, who get connected on Instagram via a mutual friend, and start chatting. We messaged each other a few times and I remember the first time we spoke which ended up being for like an hour on a WA call, sharing design ideas, design concepts etc. He is a really good guy and knows his stuff. We discussed a small batch collaboration called BLKGLD where we designed, conceptualised and produced and then sold out the entire batch of really cool rings in like two days. Thats how it started and we have repeated it since several times since. It really has been a great success and a ton of fun. The really interesting point for me is how two guys from different continents who have never met face to face, connect and collaborate so seamlessly for two years before finally meeting at Baselworld for the first time in 2019. Welcome to the infinite world of social media.

Courtesy of Mark Gold

You have been out in front of a lot of famous brands before many people were aware.  Can you share a bit of your background/history in the watch and Jewelry business?

I studied traditional Jewellery design at a university in the mid 80's and soon set up my own workshop. Being in Africa, you can be quite isolated from the spotlight but I learned a lot and tourism to SA really picked up during the late 90's. I was well established locally at that time and catered for many international clients, celebrities etc through my retail stores. 

At the time I represented Cartier and Franck Muller as they were good sellers however, as a designer, it never really sat well with me selling other brands. I sold the retail stores and concentrated on developing our own watch brand and other high end contemporary luxury products. This new journey is really still in its infancy however we are gaining traction and recognition which are vital to what we are doing and establishing oneself globally requires patience.

Courtesy of Mark Gold

And speaking of watches, can you tell us a bit about The Gamechanger?

An absolute passion project and I love every minute of it. I focus mainly on the visual design aspects, packaging and new concepts relating to the brand going forward. The watch is certainly bold and deliberately so. I work with an incredible Swiss technical team who handle the intricate details of watchmaking that they are so good at. 

This really is a David vs Goliath situation however our confidence is high just like David's was ...

A Few Minutes with Sascha Moeri

As we approach year's end (and as the sun came up this morning, hopefully not the world's end) it seems a good time to catch up with some of the folks behind the brands.

And now, a few minutes with Sascha Moeri of Carl F. Bucherer -

Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

James Henderson - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Sascha Moeri - My first real watch was a gift from my parents for my confirmation when I was
fourteen or fifteen, and I was very proud of it. It was a Rado, and I wore it for quite a few years. I hung on to it as a keepsake but then found a good reason to get rid of it at a charity auction. The very first watch I owned, though, was made by a brand called ATB. I was twelve years old and won it as first prize in a mountain bike race.

JH - As a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?
 
SM - As a child, I wanted to be an athlete: either an ice hockey player or a professional skier.  Actually, come to think of it, there was even one point when I wanted to be a tennis player.

JH - Where did you go to school? What did you study?

SM - I studied economics and marketing in Bern and Zurich. I then did an MBA alongside my job. It was a joint degree course of studies at the New York State University in Albany and at the Lorange Institute of Business in Zurich.

JH - What was your first job in the "real world"?

 

SM - I started my apprenticeship in the finance department of a construction company ending with a degree in Business Administration.

JH - How did you get started in the watch industry?

SM - My first job in the industry was as a Credit Control Manager and Controller in the Finance Department at Swatch AG, with the Swatch Group.

JH - How would you describe the essence of CFB, its DNA?

SM - I have a formula that would explain Carl F. Bucherer’s success and it’s based on five pillars.

First, Bucherer’s history dates back to 1888, when Carl F. Bucherer opened his first watch and jewelry store in Lucerne, Switzerland. The company has remained in the family to this day and is now owned by the third-generation sole shareholder, Jörg G. Bucherer, the founder’s grandson. This unique historical background has ensured continuity and consistency all down the line.

Second, we’ve always combined leading-edge watchmaking skills with practical functional features. Our watches are still the product of the same philosophy and engineering that went into their predecessors and even feature some of the same components. For us, it’s the essence of pure Swiss watchmaking. As we move into the future, our timepieces will continue to blend state-of-the-art technology with forward-looking design and expertise. We are keenly aware of our tradition but driven by innovation.

Third, a central factor in Bucherer’s heritage is top-quality jewelry-making. It’s given us the expertise we need to make outstanding jewelry watches that appeal to lots of women.

Fourth, the products themselves: the moment you see and touch our watches, it’s virtually impossible not to fall in love with them. They’re a perfect combination of outstanding design and feel. One thing’s certain: we’ve never made compromises on quality and never will.

The fifth, but by no means least important, factor is first-hand encounters in Bucherer stores. They’ve traditionally been a source of invaluable information about consumer behavior and remain so to this day. The feedback obtained enables us to design outstanding products that appeal to our customers.

If we continue to keep sight of these factors, Carl F. Bucherer will always maintain the integrity, value and heritage that the market demands from an authentic, luxury Swiss watch brand.

JH - What is Bucherer's strongest market right now?
 
SM - Asia is our strongest market at the moment, but this is a fairly widespread phenomenon in view of the global economy. All the same, there is a difference, and it’s this: the CFB brand has been established in China for decades. We have deep roots in the market, very solid brand awareness and a solid extension of our family-minded business partners.

JH - I realize it might be hard to choose, but what is your favorite model?

SM - I have a particular liking for the Manero ChronoPerpetual, which is available in an edition limited to 100 pieces. The perpetual calendar, with correction-free indication of the date, day of the week, month and moon phase, remains a technical challenge that can be met by only a handful of watchmakers. The mechanism recognizes the different lengths of the months and knows when the next leap year is approaching. My personal favorite is the latest Manero ChronoPerpetual in rose gold with a
classic anthracite dial.

Another is the Patravi TravelTec FourX in red gold, which we are launching in a limited edition version of 125 pieces to mark the occasion of Carl Friedrich Bucherer opening his first retail store in the very heart of Lucerne in 1888. This dynamic timepiece features a combination of four exclusive materials: 18 K red gold, ceramic, rubber and titanium. The intricate skeletonized dial features three time zones and has a chronograph, hour, minute and small seconds hands as well as a date display.  The unique integration of movement and case calls for watchmaking skills at the highest-possible level.

Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer 

JH - It seems you’re a good salesman as well, considering that our former Governor is wearing a Carl F. Bucherer watch. What’s Arnold Schwarzenegger like as a customer?

SM - What was amazing about meeting Arnold Schwarzenegger was that we share an admiration for fine watch making. He genuinely admires CFB for all we represent, namely our history and credibility. And he has a real appreciation of our products.

He is a true watch aficionado. And, naturally, we are grateful to anyone who wears Carl F. Bucherer and is so passionate about the product and the CFB family.

JH - What do you enjoy doing in your spare time?

SM - I really enjoy outdoor sports, mainly snowboarding and skiing. I started skiing when I was eight years old. In Switzerland it’s part of our lifestyle and parents usually start teaching their children to ski at a very early age. I took up snowboarding, in my pre-teen years at the age of 12, and since then snowboarding’s been my very favorite sport.

Apart from sport, I really enjoy smoking a good cigar. It’s something I took up in my early twenties. I was actually very curious to find out more about the entire process, and over the years I’ve learned a lot more about the culture, business and appreciation of fine cigars.

But the thing I enjoy above anything else is spending time with my close friends and family. And that’s what I do whenever I have the time.



JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

SM - If I weren’t in the watch business, I think I’d want to be involved in the cigar industry. At grass roots level, perhaps running a farm somewhere (laughing).

Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

JH - What advice would you give new CEOs in the Swiss watch industry?


SM - First and foremost we need to remember that we represent business entities which have a long history of innovation and technology and are famous throughout the world. When it comes to fine timepieces, Switzerland’s watchmaking industry leads the way. A CEO in the Swiss watch industry has a responsibility to ensure that our ethical foundation and traditions are preserved for generations still to come. If we maintain these standards of integrity in everything we do, the daily business of decision-making should be easier to handle and our industry will continue to strive long into the future.

www.carl-f-bucherer.com