Legare

While there have been rumblings about a possible horological comeback from the house of Wundermann, what was fully confirmed yesterday was a new brand from Guillaume Tetu and Wei Koh, Legare.

In fairness, the brand was founded in 2024, but they have now announced their first two versions of the brands first model, Chapter I.

Courtesy of Legare

The first's nom de montre is "Elegant". Not sure if I'd give full marks to the imagineers who came up with that one (although it is at least better than the second - more on that shortly).

The Elegant, per Legare:

Elegant: Untreated German Silver

The Elegant version features a mirror-polished case, with contrasting brushed and sand-blasted finishes on all edges and bevels. The movement is crafted from untreated German Silver. Over time, this material will start to patina to show a very beautiful gold hue. The idea of a watch transforming over time, the more it interacts with its wearer.

The Elegant version features extra-thick, high-contrast Côtes de Genève decoration across the mainplate and the three bridges. All angles are mirror polished and extra thick, as are the countersinks for all screws. The two escape wheel bridges display handmade inner angles perfectly framed by the sapphire seconds subdia

Hands: Stamped steel base, flame-blued, mirror-polished.

Strap: Hand-stitched gray Alcantara, 20mm × 16mm, quick release pin bar at lugs and buckle.

The second verison - known as "Darth" (see what I mean...) 

Courtesy of Lagare

The Darth, per Legare:

Darth: True Sandblasting

The Darth features a stealthily brushed case with mirror-polished angles and bevels. The movement is German Silver and has been true sand-blasted, producing a much more luminous sparkle than laser engraved patterns. It is then coated in black ruthenium, which creates a stunning gray hue with hints of blue.

The Darth case is entirely mirror polished first before the surfaces are brushed. While it is very stealthy, every single edge or bevel is mirror polished, which creates an incredible visual impact. You will never find two of the same surface treatments meeting each other at an edge.

Hands: Stamped steel base, flame-blued, mirror-polished.

Strap: Hand-stitched blue Cordova fabric, 20mm × 16mm, quick release pin bar at lugs and buckle.

In terms of both versions, the case is of titanium

(grade 5) and measures 37.5mm × 9.95mm. Gotta' say, sort of dig the somewhat eccentric refusal to conform to a "typical" (i.e. round number) measurement.

As regards the movement, it is refered to as the Calibre LC1–AGP–01.  

Courtesy of Legare

Per Legare:

Calibre LC1–AGP–01 features two balance wheels beating at 21,600vph with their rates averaged through a planetary differential. The differential divides power equally between the two oscillators while averaging their rates.

Both our hairsprings feature Breguet Overcoils or Phillips Terminal Curves to aid in concentric breathing. The balance wheels feature hairsprings pinned in 180° opposing directions to help overcome positional errors due to non-concentric breathing.

Both balance wheels are powered using side-angled lever escapements normally used exclusively in tourbillons and also in past Observatory Trial watches. They are used here to create a more compact architecture allowing us to create a 13-Lignes movement (29.33mm) capable of fitting in a 37.5mm in diameter watch.

This is the only timepiece in watchmaking history to use double side-angled lever escapements in this way.

The differential is located at the fourth wheel, much closer to the escapement, allowing it to average the rates of the two balances more directly than in most other differential-equipped watches.

Calibre LC1–AGP–01 is developed in partnership with TEC Group Swiss, based in Switzerland.

Each Calibre LC1–AGP–01 is assembled and adjusted by hand. The two balance wheels are regulated to run at slightly different rates, allowing the differential to average them.

Every movement is individually tested before leaving Switzerland.

Okay, so let's talk turkey - just how much will a Lagare set you back?

Unless I missed it, there does not appear to be pricing on the website - and as my great grandfather was fond of reminding us -

"If you have to ask, you can't afford it!" Well, we can't all be successful ranchers turned even more successful oil well owners (not to worry, my grandfather managed to squander the entire family fortune, so I will not be competing for you to get one of these limited editions).

There will be 25 pieces total of each version, priced at a rarified price just south of 82,000 CHF - or 1.5 starter homes in rural Ohio.