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| Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre |
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| Jaeger-LeCoultre |
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Prolonging the magic - Jaeger-LeCoultre
Aquadive - a few days in
So I'm now a few days in with my "new" Aquadive, and it occurs to me that this might be one of those watch companies from the past that some (clearly not all judging from the feedback) might not know about/remember.
So over the coming 10 days I will endeavor to post some historical tidbits and factoids.
The Aquadive so far has been a very comfortable watch to wear. It is, clearly, from a different era, and the little touches that were "of the moment" back in the 60s and 70s have evolved to "bigger and better" in the current world of dive watches. It's interesting in wearing something from that time, you start to really appreciate what went into making it, the design, the necessity for function over form.
I particularly like the crown. It is somewhat "outsized" for the watch, but really in a good way! It is also, surprisingly for its age, a remarkably accurate watch. So far it has gained 4 seconds (in fairness, day one was 6 seconds, day 2 - 4 seconds, day 3 - 4 seconds, day 4 - 4 seconds). We are into day 5 and I will, of course, keep you posted.
Lastly, I have to say that this is a really, really FUN watch to wear! Think back to your youth - Johnny Quest, etc.
More to come, stay tuned
So over the coming 10 days I will endeavor to post some historical tidbits and factoids.
I particularly like the crown. It is somewhat "outsized" for the watch, but really in a good way! It is also, surprisingly for its age, a remarkably accurate watch. So far it has gained 4 seconds (in fairness, day one was 6 seconds, day 2 - 4 seconds, day 3 - 4 seconds, day 4 - 4 seconds). We are into day 5 and I will, of course, keep you posted.
Lastly, I have to say that this is a really, really FUN watch to wear! Think back to your youth - Johnny Quest, etc.
More to come, stay tuned
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Ellicott Lady Tuxedo Chronograph
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| Courtesy of Ellicott |
Movement
Calibre LTC.1, self-winding mechanical movement chronograph
Number of jewels : 33 rubies
Height : 5.50 mm
Diameter : 23,90 mm
Frequency : 28’800 oscillations per hour (4Hz)
Power reserve : 37 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, chronograph
Small second counter and 30-minute counter
Case
Case shaped - model XL : 37 mm (3h-9h) - 51,50 mm (lugs included) thickness 13,50 mm, in black steel DLC* scratch resistant
Pushpieces of the chronograph in black steel DLC*
Function Start/Stop at 2 o’clock – Reset at 4 o’clock
Dial in mother of pearl in black, white or pink – Hours’ markers and Arabic numbers set with diamonds
Hands, hours and minutes, “leaf” shape with luminescent coating
The long counterbalanced hand in red indicates the chronograph’s seconds, while the minutes are displayed in a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment
Back with sapphire crystal and satin-finish black steel DLC* scratch resistant
Water resistant to 30 meters
Strap
Black alligator
Buckle in black steel DLC*
Monday, August 29, 2011
A unique Reverso by ZEP - The creator of “Titeuf”
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| Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre |
This unique Reverso has been customized by Zep in enamel and pink gold. It will be auctioned by the Artcurial auction house on November 29, 2011 in Paris for the benefit of “Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy”. It is always nice to see people coming together in support of a good cause.
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| Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre |
The artist had this to say about his collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre -
"I have always been fascinated with the miniaturization and the aesthetics of mechanical movements. The idea of slipping Titeuf into a Reverso with its parts so complex and subtle seemed obvious to me. It is also reminiscent of Charlot of Modern Times. I hope that my character will not impede the legendary precision of the Reverso..." - Zep
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| Courtesy of Jaeger Le-Coultre |
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| Courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre |
15 Days with Aquadive
Sunday, August 28, 2011
John Biggs take on the 9 Most Important Watches in the World
Saw this article this morning, and thought you might enjoy it. This article was written by John Biggs of crunchgear.com fame. Thanks to Popular Mechanics (more specifically www.popularmechanics.com - here is a link to Mr. Biggs article.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/tools/4298102?click=main_sr#fbIndex1
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/tools/4298102?click=main_sr#fbIndex1
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Something Bronze
With all of the companies coming out with bronze watches lately, I thought it might be fun to look at one of the ones from the folks at Anonimo -
This is the Marlin Bronzo.
Water resistant to 1500 meters (150 Atmospheres) and limited to 300 pieces per dial color, the Marlin Bronzo is a wonderful reinterpretation of the Marlin. The case is special in that it utilizes what Anonimo refers to as Marine Bronze - also referred to as "aluminum bronze" it is often used for items such as ships propellors. The case itself is resistant to corrosion and the effects of oxidization. It will, however, age nicely over time, generating a warmer patina as a result of being worn by its owner.
www.anonimo.com
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| Courtesy of Anonimo |
Water resistant to 1500 meters (150 Atmospheres) and limited to 300 pieces per dial color, the Marlin Bronzo is a wonderful reinterpretation of the Marlin. The case is special in that it utilizes what Anonimo refers to as Marine Bronze - also referred to as "aluminum bronze" it is often used for items such as ships propellors. The case itself is resistant to corrosion and the effects of oxidization. It will, however, age nicely over time, generating a warmer patina as a result of being worn by its owner.
www.anonimo.com
Christopher Ward 50 Malvern COSC
This just in from Christopher Ward -
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| Courtesy of Christopher Ward |
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Friday, August 26, 2011
A really cool example of the lure of the Reverso!
This just in from Jaeger-LeCoultre -
The Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 on the wrist of Charlotte Gainsbourg
in her new video “Terrible Angels” released online today
A true icon of fine watchmaking, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso celebrates its 80th anniversary this year. While keeping its status as a reference, Reverso is revealed in a new light in the video of Charlotte Gainsbourg, a talented artist and a many-sided personality
“Terrible Angels” EP to be released on September 6.
Video Online Now on Youtube and Dailymotion:
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Hanhart - Red
I suspect that I am now on what is sometimes called a "slippery slope" - now that I have a Hanhart chronograph, I am already thinking about the next one! This is one from an old collection that a reader sent in, so in the interest of audience participation -
Christopher Ward’s NEW Alex collection
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
A few minutes with Guillaume Tetu
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| Courtesy of Hautlence |
James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it? Guillaume Tetu - My first watch was a gift from my grand father, and it was in France, the quality was not really good, so after my first summer job, I decide to buy myself a real Swiss watch, and I choose a Swatch Irony Chrono, I was 18 and I was really proud of it. JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"? GT - When I was 12, I had my first lesson in technical design. It was a bit of a "manual realisation", the perfect training to build the 'mother's day gift' yourself… It was a revelation for me, to build something from scratch, from an idea, to draw it and sketch this idea, and finally build it. So I decided to study technical design during my studies, to become a technician and product designer. JH - What got you into the watch business in the first place? GT - When I started working (after my studies and one year of military service) I worked for a 3D computer aided design company based in Lyon (my home town). They were sending some consultants on temporary assignments to work with some customers, and my boss asked me one day : "Guillaume, do you mind if I 'send' you to Switzerland, I have a big customer who needs more people to work on the 3D database". For me it was really my first opportunity to discover another country, and add some experience. I was sent to Gay-Freres, the metal bracelet supplier for Rolex. They was moving from a software to another one, and I was involved in the mutation of files designing and rebuilding many links and pins… JH - Of all the watches you have been involved with, what is your "baby"? What is the one that you feel the strongest attachment to? Why? GT - If I speak about HAUTLENCE, of course my baby is the first HL, it’s the origin of the company, and it became a real icon in the industry. JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you? GT - As I worked with TAG Heuer for 7 years, I would say that this company is making incredible products. I was involve in many special projects, such as the golf watches, and the Monaco Sixty-Nine. Working at Tag Heuer was always a real challenge as we were pushing creativity and technology. It was a successful team with a wonderful spirit. JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing? GT - For sure I would design other products, like cigar boxes, etc… or perhaps I would love to work in "the art of the table", meaning close to fine food… JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Guillaume Tetu? GT - When I’m in Switzerland, I wake up around 7, and arrive in the office before 8.30 after half an hour drive. As I’m leading the company, I organise the day to follow all the project, from design, production, to sales, and of course the finances. I keep an eye on the design and I’m involved in 3D building of cases, my team is working on movements and industrialization. I’m more and more involved in the marketing and brand representation. That’s why I’m traveling 1 or 2 weeks a month, depending on the period in the year. JH - I have seen several photos on your Face Book page for American football - anything we should know? GT - Heyhey…It’s not a war, it’s my sport… When I was still leaving in France (I was 18) some friends created an American football team in my small city, in the area of Lyon. I joined up "to try it", and I never stopped! I am close to 40 and I’m too hold for tackle football, now I play Flag with my Friend Keith Strandberg. I was playing tight-end, and defensive- end, I had a lot of fun, and when I arrived in Switzerland I joined a local team, the Bienna Jets, and we played at a good level, so it’s an important part of my sports life. In 2006, I created a team in Neuchatel, the Neuchatel Knights (As Neuchatel means new Casttle…) but I’m now just the honorary president… JH - What was the inspiration behind Hautlence? GT - Around 2001 we were brainstorming with friends from the industry, and there was a lack of innovation, as everybody in the main brands was using standard movements from the Swatch group, or displaying the time with the typical 2 hands. It seemed that the only difference between the watches and the companies making them was the ambassador and the sport linked to it! But there were also some independent watchmakers making what the big companies then might have referred to as "garage" watches - people like Vianney Halter, or URWERK, and for us this represented a new world to be explored : designing new ways to tell the time, and showing really interesting mechanisms that you do not expect to see in a watch. Some people, collectors who want to be different than their neighbors, would like to have a unique timekeeper, so we drew up a few ideas, and we decided to construct it (crazy us… ahaha)! We jumped into the arena in 2004 after raising money to create the first movement and launch the company. JH - While the readership of this blog is truly global - from a very American perspective - who are your best retail partners in the US? GT - The US market became newly reborn for us when we decided to become closer with that market. Near the end of 2008, we changed our worldwide distribution to have a deeper contact with our retailers, and a stronger relationship with end customers. So now we are rebuilding the network, and we have a good partner in Naples, Exquisite Timepieces, we just opened in the new Tourneau boutique on Madison Ave. in New York City, and I would love to open soon in the Philadelphia area with a real passionate watch connoisseur : Martin Pully. The rest of the (big) country is to be open, even though we have good and friendly relationships with former partners as Darakian in Southfield or Osters in Denver, we need to go step by step, with my local partner, Alexis Srakissian from TWI, we target to open around 10 Points of Sale for the entire US. JH - What is the essence of Hautlence? What is "Hautlence-sequa"? GT - HAUTLENCE is an "Atelier d’Horlogerie Contemporaine", if I try to translate, it’s a "workshop of contemporary watchmaking". It's a Workshop because we design in house and produce some parts of the movement in house, and we supply craftsmanship, finishing, cases and dials. It is ccontemporary because we use all the tools and technology from today to reach our level of creativity. We are now improving the brand's visibility and communication to become a well known and respected alternative brand. Q. So what advice do you have for the next generation of watch entrepreneur/CEO? GT - First - create a really different product and brand philosophy, there is no need for another "me too" watch. Be sure to provide the best quality as possible, and customer and after sales service that are really focused on the end consumer. Ultimately, they are the real ambassadors! As you may know, we have created a HAUTLENCE Owner’s club to provide our customers with a tailor-made service. Finally, choose good partners in your sales network, to provide the best service during the sales presentation, and promote your product and brand values. That’s it… All the best to Tempus Fugit readers, Guillaume |
UR-1001 Zeit Device Über Complication
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| Courtesy of URWERK |
The UR-1001 is a true Zeit Device: It is a grand über complication both measuring and quantifying the era in its entirety, from a solitary second to an astronomical millennia. Exuding force from a case seemingly carved from a block of solid metal, the UR-1001 marks the passage of time in seconds, minutes, hours, day/night, date, month, years, 100 years and all of the way to a monumental 1,000 years!
The Zeit Device houses a constellation of indications, including orbiting satellites and a comet-like flying retrograde. Dials, springs, satellites, carrousels, retrograde spiral spring were all manufactured in-house by URWERK, as were most of the components in the Zeit Device's complications and indications.
The AlTiN UR-1001 is a limited edition of 8 pieces in AlTiN treated steel with titanium elements.
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| Courtesy of URWERK |
UR-1001 - Technical Specifications
Movement
Calibre: UR-10.01
Jewels: 51
Escapement: Swiss lever
Balance: Monometallic
Frequency:28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Power source: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 39 hours
Power reserve: 39 hours
Winding system: Unidirectional winding rotor
Time mechanism: Double star retrograde with aluminium ring and platinum
counterweight
Calendar mechanism: 93 tooth wheel, 3 Maltese crosses
Retrograde minutes: Anti-shock safety device
Retrograde minute spring: Spiral of 6.5 turns, dimensions 174.4mm x 0.1mm x 0.3mm with
mobile piton (adjustable pin). Long length ensures flat torque curve
Plates and bridges: Baseplate in ARCAP
Screws: Titanium non-oxidising
Plates and bridges: Baseplate in ARCAP
Screws: Titanium non-oxidising
Surface finishes: Circular-grained, Côtes de Genève and DLC treated mainplate
and baseplate, chamfered and polished screw heads Indications
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| Courtesy of URWERK |
Case
The AlTiN UR-1001 Zeit Device is a limited edition of 8 pieces in AlTiN treated steel with titanium elements.
Material: AlTiN steel with titanium elements
Chain: Hand-made, heat-blackened steel links featuring bespoke URWERK
clasp with carbineer closure
Dimensions: 106mm x 62mm x 23mm
Glasses: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: Pressure-tested to 3ATM
Surface finishes: Micro-sandblasted
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Even a watch wants to be more...
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| Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux |
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| Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux |
Hussein Madi was born in 1938 in Chebaa – a Lebanese village. Drawing, painting, sculpture, engraving, graphics, illustration, ceramics, mosaics, caricature – Madi has always been keen to expand his artistic creativity. At 20, he enrolled in the Lebanese Academy of Fine Arts and from 1963 continued his training in Italy, at the Fine Arts Academies of Rome and San Giacomo.
Civil war broke out in Lebanon in 1975 and Madi pursued his career in both Rome and Beirut, teaching art at the Fine Arts Institute of the University of Lebanon and the Lebanese Academy of Fine Arts. He made Beirut his permanent home in 1986.
He has exhibited around the world – more than 50 exhibitions have been devoted to him - and his work can be found today in important public institutions such as the British Museum in London, as well as in private collections.
As an international artist his work moves between North and South. He draws inspiration from his native land but is always open to other cultures. Knowledge, for Madi, is the source of all freedom.
His artistic style is all about shapes and colours, with echoes of his predecessors, Matisse and Picasso, as well as the principles of divine harmony that underpin the abstract designs of Islamic art. Whether in two or three dimensions, his lines display a spontaneous freedom behind which can be sensed the precision that he brings to each of his works. Meticulousness and sensuality are the keystones of everything he creates, inspired by a deep belief in a divine universal order in which every single thing is different but composed of the same cosmic elements.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Girard-Perregaux 1966, unique piece in white gold
Case in white gold
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Height: 10.13 mm
Case-back: non-reflective sapphire
Water resistance: 30 metres
Girard-Perregaux GP03000-0060
Mechanical movement with automatic winding
Calibre: 11½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 32
Power reserve: minimum of 46 hours
Functions: hours, minutes
Dial of marquetry and painting on mother-of-pearl, after "The abduction of Europa" by Hussein Madi.
Strap in black alligator
Pin buckle: white gold
~
Girard-Perregaux 1966, unique piece in pink gold
Case in pink gold set with 68 diamonds (~1.50 ct)
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Height: 10.13 mm
Case-back: non-reflective sapphire
Water resistance: 30 metres
Girard-Perregaux GP03000-0060
Mechanical movement with automatic winding
Calibre: 11½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 32
Power reserve: minimum of 46 hours
Functions: Hour, minute
Dial of marquetry and painting on mother-of-pearl, after "The abduction of Europa" by Hussein Madi.
Strap in white alligator
Pin buckle: pink gold
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