Steel Evolution Carbon from TechnoMarine

Steel Evolution Carbon is the latest result of TechnoMarine’s continuing effort to play with materials and interpret them in a fun and cool way. The incorporation of carbon fiber’s masculine and sophisticated aesthetic into some of TechnoMarine’s signature components, such as the brand’s famous silicone strap, moves the Steel Evolution line forward in an exciting new direction. Carbon fiber has technical credentials (light weight, popular in aeronautics and high end sports gear) that underscore the practical side of the brand, whilst connoting ‘cutting edge’ and ‘modern’—two terms that are also reflective of the brand identity. This strong new style presents Steel Evolution’s most urbane watch yet.

Courtesy of TechnoMarine

Propelling TechnoMarine’s most popular collections—Cruise Original and Cruise Star—in a creative new direction, Cruise Monogram pays homage to the brand’s famous logo. Inspired by the curvature of a shark tooth and cleverly shaping that awesome object into a unique hybrid of a “T” and “M”, TechnoMarine’s logo has become an emblem of the brand’s distinctive identity. For the first time ever, TechnoMarine is shining the spotlight on its logo in a recurring monogram fashion on the face of Cruise Monogram. Comprised of three new watches, Cruise Monogram is available in tones of gold, silver and dark grey and elegantly features the logo motif repeated across a mirrored dial in a nearly sheer effect.

Courtesy of TecnoMarine

Check them out!

www.technomarine.com

Courtesy of TechnoMarine

Historiador Flameante - A Pre-BaselWorld Release from Cuervo y Sobrinos

This just in from Cuervo y Sobrinos -

Historiador Flameante

Courtesy of Cuervo y Sobrinos

History is a fundamental value for Cuervo y Sobrinos. The Swiss brand with Latin soul finds an inexhaustible source of inspiration in its archives and imbues its collections with a timeless, “classic” style giving personality to shapes and models from the past.


One of the new releases presented by the brand at Baselworld this year is based on a vintage design: an ultra-thin watch Cuervo y Sobrinos designed in the 1950s. Then as now, this timepiece is a symbol of impeccable taste and flawless elegance.

The new Historiador Flameante is a contemporary reworking of an exquisite design that showcases a disciplined harmony that demonstrates the brand’s craftsmanship and technical skills. The name of the watch derives from the unique workmanship on the dial, a prized and exclusive “flame” effect (“flameante”, in Spanish).

The ultra-thin (only 2.5 mm) manually wound movement with second hands is housed in a pink gold case that is perfectly proportioned (40 mm in diameter, 6.2 thick).
Glimpsed from its sapphire crystal caseback you can admire the careful detailing: the Côtes de Genève pattern on the movement plate, the anthracite-treated balance bridge, the azure-coated screws. The words “Testimony of style since 1882” engraved around the movement emphasize the exquisite taste that has always distinguished Cuervo y Sobrinos styling.

Completing the look is a premium Louisiana alligator strap.
With its great technical and aesthetic refinement the Historiador Flameante will certainly delight aficionados of fine mechanical watches.



Versions available 3130.9FA argenté  3130.9FG gun metal

Characteristics
A classic, elegant watch inspired by an original design from the 1950s. Ultra-thin manual-wind with second hand at 6.

Movement
Manual-wind, ETA 7001
Height 2.50 mm
Diameter 23.30 mm
17 jewels
Power reserve: 42 hours
Anthracite-treated balance bridge and fan-out "Côte de Genève" pattern on the movement plate
'Testimony of style since 1882' engraved around the movement

Functions
Hours, minutes, with second hand at 6

Case
18k gold 5N
Diameter 40 mm
Height 6.2 mm
Convex crystal with anti-reflection treatment
Water resistant to 3 ATM
Caseback in transparent sapphire crystal

Dial
CyS logo embossed at 12
Hours and minutes with superluminova

Strap
Louisiana alligator
Buckle In 18k gold

www.cuervoysobrinos.com

The Chinese Timekeeper in Santa Barbara!

Any watch fans in the LA/Santa Barbara area?

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper

The Chinese Timekeeper will be having an event at 33 Jewels in Santa Barbara on Saturday March 9th and Sunday March 10th. Come check out the collection!

http://33jewels.com/

The Danger of Obsession...

I wake up - she is there, on my mind.  Haunting me like the girl you were afraid to talk to - a girl like that could never be interested in a guy like me...

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

Haunting my waking and sleeping state.  Obsession can be fun - but it is still obsession.
Someday...

BaselWorld Preview - Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph

Here is a preview of the new Pontos Chronograph from Maurice Lacroix -

Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix

 PONTOS CHRONOGRAPHE - available in either black or white dial.

Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix

CASE


■ Stainless steel or stainless steel with 18K pink gold bezel, Ø 43 mm

■ Finish combining satin and polished surfaces

■ Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides

■ Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal

■ Water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm)

DIAL

■ Sun-brushed and snail counters with applied indexes

■ Available in silver or new black execution with pink gold-plated applied indexes

■ Retro executions:

– Black or white lacquered execution with contrasting counters in white or black

– Contrasting blue and red printing

HANDS

■ Diamond-cut faceted pink gold-plated hands with luminescent coating on hour and minute hands

STRAP/BRACELET

■ Genuine black or brown crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching

■ Stainless steel or stainless steel/pink gold-plated bracelet, combining brushed and polished surfaces

■ Retro executions:

– Genuine black or brown calfskin strap, lined with matching calfskin and over-stitching

BUCKLE

■ Folding steel clasp with push-buttons

■ Satin and polished finish

MOVEMENT

Personalized Maurice Lacroix ML112 caliber, self-winding, based on Valjoux 7750 movement,
with guaranteed quality and precision

■ Functions:

– Hours, Minutes, Seconds indicated by central hands

– Small seconds at 9 o’clock

– Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand

– 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o’clock

– 12-minute chronograph counter at 6 o’clock

– Date indicated in an aperture at 6 o’clock

■ Vibration: 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

■ Power reserve: 46 hours

■ Jewels: 25

■ Adjustments: 3 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours.

■ Decoration: Rhodium-plated movement, decorated by hand: circular-grained with Côtes de Genève

www.mauricelacroix.com

WinteRace and Eberhard

This past weekend saw the inaugural running of WinteRace in Cortina, Italy. This is a classic car race featuring automobiles manufactured prior to 1972.  This AlteSfere organized race was sponsored by Eberhard & Co.

Courtesy of Eberhard

Approximately 30 teams took part in the event starting on Friday the 22nd and finishing on Saturday the 23rd.

Courtesy of Eberhard

This first WinteRace was won by Giuliano Canè in his Lancia Aprilia, together with Lucia Galliano.  Both were awarded exclusive watches from the Champion V collection, personalised with the name of the competition engraved on the back.

Courtesy of Eberhard

Eberhard will be on hand for other motoring events this year, and will feature in the Monte-Carlo Concours d’Elégance and Monaco Motor Legend from the 4th to the 7th of April, and will once again attend the Gran Premio Terre di Canossa, Passione Engadina and the Gran Premio Nuvolari.

The Harrier from Techné Instruments

This just in from Techné -

Courtesy of Techne

Techné Instruments is proud to unveil the Harrier, a modern interpretation of the classical fliegeruhr (military pilot watch).

Two years in the making, the display of the Harrier borrows cues from iconic navigation and timing instruments of the 20th century. The oversize minute tracks and Arabic numerals are inspired by altimeters and vintage German pilot timekeepers. The hollow luminous hands are borrowed from navigation compasses and the two dots by the 12 o'clock mark are borrowed from the British Wrist Watch Waterproof standard.

Courtesy of Techne

The flagship model of this new collection is the reference 363, powered by a novel self-winding mechanical calibre supplied by Citizen Holdings, the world's number 2 watch company.

Courtesy of Techne

Founded in 1918, the Citizen watch company released their first truly efficient shock-protection in 1956. Nineteen years later, they released a 11½ calibre that proved so reliable it is still in demand today. After 1975, this calibre 8200 allowed Miyota to develop 12 variations, of which the 8217 is used in a custom version by Techné since 2010.

During the first decade of the 21st century, Miyota began developing of a new 11½ calibre that would exceed the 8200 in terms of performance, refinement and slimness. Miyota relied on their near-centurial experience in industrial watchmaking and proprietary technology to design and industrialize the new calibre 9000.

Courtesy of Techne

Positively reviewed by watchmakers, this cost-efficient calibre offers a thinness of 3.90 mm, a high-torque, a generous power reserve of 42 hours and the accuracy of a high-beat inline anchor lever paced at 28,800 alternance per hour.

All 9015 movements used by Techné are manually fine-tuned in three positions to run within COSC rates (-4 to +6 seconds per day), which entitles the watches to bear the “Opus Manufactum” label (Latin for “hand-worked”).

Measuring 41.0 mm in diameter with a total thickness of 11.1 mm, the Harrier comes with a scratch-proof front sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflection coating. The reference 363.0 comes in brushed surgical 316L stainless steel and the reference 363.1 comes with a sand-blasted finishing and an aeronautical surface-hardening PVD coating. Both versions use a screw-down crown, are water resistant to 5 bar, and are available on a choice of 15 different straps.

www.technewatches.com

Graham's Chronofighter Oversize LA Kings

Of course their happy - they've just seen the new Chronofighter LA Kings!

Courtesy of Graham

As the Official Timing Partner of the Los Angeles Kings, it seems only fitting that Graham would be prepared with a cool new version of their Chronofighter to help celebrate the 2012 Stanley Cup Champions!

Courtesy of Graham

Limited to 100 Pieces

Courtesy of Graham

Functions
Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter). Date at 8 o'clock
Hours, minutes, seconds

Caliber
Caliber G1747, automatic chronograph, 28'800 A/h (4 Hz), Incabloc shock absorber
25 jewels
Power reserve: 48 hours

Case
47 mm steel case with a white diamond (0.014 cts) on the right flank and 2012 inscription engraved
Black carbon left hand fast-action start/stop trigger and black rubber reset pusher
Black ceramic bezel
Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces
Smoked sapphire crystal case back with LA Kings - Stanley Cup Champions logo and limited edition serial number

Water Resistance
330 feet / 100 m / 10 bar

Dial
Black dial, snailed hours and minutes counters, external rim with minute scale
LA Kings - Stanley Cup Champions logo at 9 o'clock
White Super-LumiNova hands, numerals and indexes, grey chronograph, minutes and seconds counters' hands

Strap
Black techno-fabric strap
Steel pin buckle

A Jardur Video!

What's better than photos with text of a newly released watch?  How about a video!

Here is a live video of the new Jardur Degreemeter -




www.jardur.com

JEANRICHARD and Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger

This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD’s partnership with Captain Sully is founded on the authentic synergy between the brand’s core philosophy and dedication to those driven to do extraordinary things. While on one hand people will say that time is money, JEANRICHARD says that time is the art of living, a philosophy of life.

“Sully is not only an individual with profoundly admirable qualities under pressure, as we saw in 2009 with his emergency landing on the Hudson”, said Bruno Grande, COO of JEANRICHARD. “He is also one who has taken and channeled it towards the improvement and encouragement of aviation safety and knowledge of this art. We are very proud to have him as a part of the JEANRICHARD family and look forward to continued success together”.

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

“JEANRICHARD’s Philosophy of Life truly speaks to me”, said Sully. “The beauty of the watches, the passions of its artisans and managers, and even more importantly their idea of working together on projects that are close to my heart and spirit made me happy to join the JEANRICHARD flight”.

www.jeanrichard.com

HM4 Thunderbolt from MB&F

It has often been said, better to go out with a bang, not a whimper, and the folks at Max Büsser and Friends have taken that motto to heart with the final iteration of the Horological Machine Number 4!

Courtesy of MB&F

Some press releases are better than others - but I have to say that MB&F goes out of their way to provide press releases that truly need no further embellishment.  So in their own words -

Horological Machine No4 Final Edition


HM4 Final Edition – Easy to see, virtually impossible to catch!

Stealth. If you look at any plane or boat designed with stealth in mind, they usually look to all intents and purposes anything but inconspicuous. And the stealthier they are, the more strikingly – radar excepted – obvious they are.

Courtesy of MB&F

Lockheed’s sensational F-117 Nighthawk was the world’s first operational stealth aircraft. While visually unmistakable, the F-117’s flat, faceted panels reflected radar away from detection and its dark surfaces blended seamlessly with the night sky. The Nighthawk was also revolutionary in the fact that its structure was a mix of aluminium and titanium.

Like the iconic F-117, HM4 Final Edition features square angular panels, dark surfaces and high-tech titanium. It looks fast. It looks menacing. And to date there have been no reports of a Final Edition being picked up by radar, so that’s the ‘stealth’ box ticked as well.
The aviation-inspired case and engine of Horological Machine No. 4 – first launched in 2010 – are one. This 2013 'Final Edition' case blends high-tech titanium for its lightweight and strength with a sapphire centre section offering a view into the engine. Black PVD provides the titanium with its shadowy cloak of concealment without blocking the light playing off the contrasting matte and highly polished surfaces.

Courtesy of MB&F

The HM4 engine is the culmination of three long years of development. Each of the 300-plus components – including the regulator and even the screws – was developed specifically for this anarchistic calibre. Horizontally configured dual mainspring barrels drive two vertical gear trains, transferring power to the twin pods indicating hours/minutes and power reserve. 

Courtesy of MB&F

But describing HM4's engine through its mechanical functionality is like describing Renoir's work through the chemical composition of his paint. Only careful contemplation enables full appreciation, and the sapphire case section and display panels top and bottom allow full access to the flawless fine finishing of HM4's intricate and vibrant micro-mechanics.

Courtesy of MB&F

The sleek aerodynamic form of HM4 has its roots in Maximilian Büsser's childhood passion for assembling model plane kits, though none looked remotely as futuristic as these. The striking transparent sapphire section of the case requires over 185 hours of machining and polishing to transform an opaque solid block of crystal into a complex, exquisitely curved panel allowing the light to come in and the beauty of the HM4 engine to stand out. Every component and form has a technical purpose; nothing is superfluous and every line and curve is in poetic harmony. Articulated lugs ensure supreme comfort. Highly legible time is a fringe benefit.
HM4 Final Edition is an elusive limited edition of just eight pieces. It closes the book on the HM4 series, which was limited to only 100 movements over all models.

Detection of the HM4 Final Edition will undeniably be difficult!

Intelligence Reports indicate that this fast-looking, menacing aircraft will be deployed to only 5 airbases across the globe: The Hour Glass in Singapore, Westime in Los Angeles, Chronopassion in Paris, the Chronometryx alpine airstrip in Gstaad and MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery home base in Geneva.

www.mbandf.com

A Few Minutes with Mario Peserico

Rugby player, sports journalist - and watch executive!  Once again I've learned that there is more to someone than their job title!  And now, a few minutes with Mario Peserico -

Courtesy of Eberhard 

Tempus Fugit - What was your first watch?  Was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Mario Peserico - It was an heirloom from my grandfather, a vintage hand-winding watch.

TF - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?

MP - I always dreamt of being a Carabiniere, the Italian national Military Police, one of the corps with the highest sense of honor; this was my dream until I was 18.

TF - Where did you go to school, what did you study exactly?

MP - After the high school I attended the Bocconi University in Milan where I studied Economics, I then decided to change my course of studies and enrolled in the Political Science faculty.

TF - What are some of the things you did prior to entering the watch industry?

MP - For a few years I was a bit of a sports journalist, writing rugby reports for an important Italian newspaper, “Il Giornale”; at the same time I was also the match commentator for a local Milan TV station.  I have been playing rugby for 15 years and I believe it has really helped shape my personality.

TF - What got you started in the watch industry in the first place?

MP - It was 1993, and Eberhard was looking for someone to handle the external relations and the the dealer contacts.   I decided to leave the job I had at the time to join Eberhard.

TF - Why Eberhard?

MP - My father was a watch collector, and he had an Eberhard model in his collection. This made it easier to make the decision, as it was a Brand already known and respected in my family.

TF - What is it that makes Eberhard special?

MP - Eberhard is a family Company with a great deal of respect for their customers and for the dealers.  Moreover, Eberhard possesses a DNA second to none when it comes to technical evolution.  It is also a great place to work at, a place where producing ideas does not provoke any rivalry.

TF - I realize it might be difficult, but what is your favorite Eberhard?

MP - It is really tough, I like almost all of them, from the historical pieces to the current collections. Having contributed to the creation of them all makes it even more difficult to make a choice. I want to surprise you by choosing  the “120^th Anniversary” model in gold with the brown dial: innovation, elegance and proportion of size.

TF - What are some of the challenges facing Eberhard?

MP - We are proud to have remained independent ever since our foundation, but markets are definitely more and more globalized these days, and it is not easy for a company that is not a "group member" to invest in very expensive territories such as China or the USA.  At the same time, this continuous challenge produces ideas, innovation, and a creative approach that often the “big boys” don’t have.

TF - What is Eberhard's strongest market?

MP - Historically, Italy has always been very important in terms of turnover size and also of consumer taste.  A watch that is successful in Italy always promises to be so in the other markets as well.

TF - How do you see Eberhard developing in the coming years?

MP - Always focusing on the same criteria: identity, technical developments, creativity and service to clients.  Distribution is changing and this is another important aspect, but we will always consider the multi brand shops as our main supporters.

TF  - What do you enjoy doing in your spare time?

MP- I live in the country side with many animals and I like spending my leisure time with them, particularly the dogs.  I also try to remain fit by exercising as much as I can over the week-ends (jogging, cycling, paddling, horse riding).  I like contemporary art very much, as well as reading.  And I love food and wine.

TF - If you weren't working with Eberhard, what do you think you might be doing?

MP - I do not see my self anywhere else and I like the watches so I could not be happier.The only different thing I would do, once retired, is living in the country side or in the mountains with no noise and no technology

TF - What advice do you have for the next Mario Peserico out there?

MP - Be unassuming, work hard, and respect others.

Graham's 44 mm Silverstone

This is the latest from Graham -

Courtesy of Graham

Functions

• Chronograph (second, 30 minutes counter). Date at 7 o'clock
• Hours, minutes, seconds

Courtesy of Graham

Calibre

• Calibre G1702, automotic chronograph, 28'800 A/h (4Hz), Incabloc shock absorber
• 59 jewels
• Power reserve : 40 hours

Courtesy of Graham

Case

• 44 mm steel case
• Steel right hand control pushers with "Clous de Paris" high grip pattern
• Screwed crown secured by an additional hexagonal bolt
• Black ceramic bezel, blue aluminium rim with tachymeter scale
• Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces
• See-through sapphire crystal case back

Courtesy of Graham

Water resistant to 330 Feet, and secured with Graham's black "tire tread" style rubber strap.

www.graham1695.com

Splendor Sangre from Angular Momentum

This just in from Angular Momentum -

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

Angular Momentum & Manu Propria have added a new sporty watch case type to its collection, the "Splendor".

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

The design of the "Splendor" watch case is characterized by a slight pillow shape, the angular down-turned lugs, the crown protection elements and its rounded bezel. The watch case is entirely mirror polished, the back alternately polished and circular satin finished.

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

Each case are entirely made in the atelier by hand and hand operated machines such as the Pantograph milling machine and the lathe.

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

Splendor Sangre
Three-body, 1.4435NcU "Staybrite" steel case, mirror polished, single curved sapphire crystal,
fire red lacquered dial with polished "Bâton" indexes. Historical hand-winding movement,
case caliber 42.00 mm, 20 ATM.

www.angularmomentum.com

www.facebook.com/manupropriatime

The One that Got Away

For many of us, there are the ones that got away.  We saw them, maybe introduced ourselves, engaged in some innocent flirting... but in the end we were afraid of commitment on some level.

Courtesy of Auguste Reymond

This is one of those watches.  

More Than a Year Later, and it's Still True

I first posted this over a year ago - but it is still true.  To quote Peter and Bianca, the folks who owned the "greatest ever" cafe in San Francisco -

Don't SNOB, Hobnob!  

Or to quote Bill Pullman in the movie Bottle Shock -

"You're a snob.  It limits you."

An important message

I started Tempus Fugit nearly a year and a half ago.  At that time, it was really a struggle to try and get information, press releases, etc.  A funny thing happened during that time.  I actually got to know some really great people at nearly every corner of the watch world.

This was really brought home to me when I travelled to Switzerland for BaselWorld this past year.  One thing became very, very clear to me.  The size, scope,  perceived value of a watch brand often times has NO bearing on the people working for them.  From the biggest, to the smallest I was genuinely impressed by most of the folks that I met.  To this end, I will cover these organizations because I believe in the PEOPLE behind them.  To be fair, there were some other organizations that, to quote an old university friend, were "all talk and no rock" - that is to say I spent hours listening to how great their brand was, but was informed that "Americans (I can only assume that they didn't know where I was from) were too unsophisticated",  that we just didn't get them, etc.

This is not unlike a few exchanges with two very large, very famous companies from one of the big luxury groups recently.  Not unlike the famous TV personality who expects not to have to pay for anything, they wanted unlimited coverage.  One refused to do an interview " our CEO is too busy, he doesn't do interviews" - only to see three forum published interviews with this very "busy" CEO appear over the next two weeks.  Those two companies will not be covered here for now although they have asked to be.  And yes, they know this.

So - let me put it out there for everyone -

I am very, very happy to cover watches from anywhere, at any price point, etc.  But you, the watch company, have to live up to your end of the bargain.  Treat your customers, the press and your partners with respect.  Yes you are selling watches - but you are also in the relationship business.  

Don't be snobs - it limits you.

A Few Minutes with Morten Linde

As with many great brands, Linde Werdelin is really a collaboration.  In this case between Creative Director Morten Linde and his colleague Jorn Werdelin.  So now a few minutes with the "design side" of Linde Werdelin, Morten Linde.

Courtesy of Linde Werdelin

Tempus Fugit - What was your first watch?  Was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Morten Linde - I received a mechanical watch when I was 18 years old.  It was a gift and I later gave it to my son.


TF - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?

ML - I’ve always had a creative mind. At 17, I discovered The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts while I was in the process of applying for University and realised I wanted to be a designer.



TF - What are some of the things you did prior to entering the watch industry?


ML - Product design - some of which has been award winning, I also set up my own studio and worked on renewed Danish and international brands.

TF - While you are a well-known designer, you were not always involved in watch design - what got you started?  What are some of the special challenges in designing a watch?

ML - Prior to the creation of Linde Werdelin I did indeed design other watches and I have always felt affection for this long lasting and valuable object.  I started this company with Jorn, whom I’ve known since I was at school and we shared the same interests. Some of the particular challenges are given by the ability of combining different elements of a watch such as case, dial, movement, crown, bezel etc… and make the timepiece work forever.



TF - Your partner in this enterprise, Jorn Werdelin is known as both an entrepreneur and a free spirit - how does your working relationship work?

ML - It works great, as we are long-time friends with the same shared passion for watches.



TF - What is it that makes Linde Werdelin special?

ML - We have a strong DNA and our products have a strong personality - we are a  free spirited company.



TF - What is a typical day in the life of Morten Linde?

ML - I spend most of the day in the office, working on design and overseeing the Image of the brand.  I liaise all day with London (our marketing department).  Ultimately but most importantly I take care of my  family.



TF - I realize it might be difficult, but what is your favourite Linde Werdelin?

ML - I am always passionate about the watch I am working on right now.



TF - What are some of the challenges facing Linde Werdelin?

ML - To keep on doing as well as we are doing now.



TF - What are Linde Werdelin's strongest markets?

ML - Are strongest markets right now are Asia and the US.



TF - How do you see Linde Werdelin developing in the coming years?

ML - Exploring and being innovative with more materials and movements.



TF - What do you enjoy doing in your spare time?

ML - Spending time with my family, skiing and always working!



TF - If you weren't involved with what you're doing with Linde Werdelin, what do you think you might be doing?

ML - Nothing else. 



TF - What advice do you have for the next Morten Linde out there?

ML - Be true to yourself, do whatever you think is right but know how to work with other people.

Vulcain 50s Presidents' Classic

This is the latest from Vulcain - the 50s Presidents' Classic.

Courtesy of Vulcain

 This one is stainless steel, but this model will also be available in gold.  42 mm, self-winding movement - the VULCAIN AUTOMATIC CALIBRE V-56.

Courtesy of Vulcain

Here are the details -

CASE


Material: 316L steel

Case-back: sapphire

Dial: silver-toned, charcoal grey or blue sunray dial

with rhodium indexes

Diameter: 42.00 mm

Height: 8.60 mm

Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 50 meters / 160 feet


VULCAIN AUTOMATIC CALIBRE V-56

Movement: 11½-lignes mechanical bidirectional self-winding calibre with date, 25 rubies, 93components, lift angle 47°

Decoration: rhodium coating, côtes de Genève motif, blued screws

Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, date window at 6 o’clock

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Power reserve: 42 hours

Eterna's New Calibre 39 - Practical, Useful, and Sorta' Sexy!

Okay, last night I was waxing lyrical about how some people out there write off watches because they use a movement from brand X instead of an ETA.  I stand by this - because the thing of it is, although they do have the watch industry, and by extension the watch buying community in a strangle-hold, ETA is not the only company out there making movements.  

But today's topic is a little different.  Because although I AM writing in praise of a new movement, it is in praise of what this movement means to the watch it will power - and moreover it speaks volumes about the people who work together in the company that makes it.

And what's so sexy about another movement?  It's not solid gold, dipped in "unobtainium", or lubricated by unicorn tears... no it is the simplicity of its design and the simple common sense that is so sexy!  Before I turn the rest of this story over to Eterna, I will leave you with one simple thought - three screws!  What if you could convert a hand-wound movement to a self-winding movement by removing three screws, and then attaching a self-winding module with the same THREE SCREWS?!?!  That, dear readers, is sexy!  So enough of my ramblings - here's the news from Eterna -

Courtesy of Eterna

The Calibre 39 line by Eterna: boosting the brand's pioneering spirit.

For years now, Eterna has been been concentrating on expanding its manufacturing and portfolio of movements. Today, Eterna is on the verge of completing a task involving high precision and ingenuity, its Calibre 39. This movement is not only an industrial calibre, but also represents a family of calibres thanks to whose modularity the brand can produce 88 different movements using the base calibre.

Courtesy of Eterna

Eterna: pioneers of watchmaking

Throughout its history Eterna has always been involved in designing movements. At its start, the company only manufactured ébauches. In 1948, Eterna revolutionised the automatic movement by offering an oscillating mass on ball bearings. The Eterna-Matic, which was the model, has become a benchmark today. The use of ball bearings is perfectly natural for Eterna. It is at the origin of the company logo, and in 2006, Eterna patented the Spherodrive technology featuring ceramic balls on three concentric rings to facilitate the rotation of the barrel. This technology, further refined, has been applied to the new family of the calibres 39, which will be the spearhead of the manufacture.

Courtesy of Eterna

Great complexity distilled to simplicity

The project began in 2007 and had two aims: the first was to develop an automatic chronograph with subsidiary dials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The second objective was to find solutions to optimise design and costs. Step by step, and thanks to the cleverness of Eterna’s watchmakers, an entire family of calibres emerged. This special and outstanding design allows assembly of 88 different versions of the movement using a single base movement.

By subtly combining this movement and different components or assembly groups, the watchmakers can construct anything from a simple manual movement with two or three hands, to a chronograph. All they need to do is remove the three screws from the three-hand, manually-wound calibre's decorative bridge and add the automatic module, which can be affixed using the same three screws. The result is a three-hand automatic calibre. The same procedure is used to add a power reserve. The pre-mounted manual and automatic chronograph modules can also be affixed to the base movement using a set of screws. Moreover, just a few components are needed to add a second hand to the centre. On the dial side, adaptation for the functions can be done very simply and the possibilities are many: date, day date, central date and/or second time zone.

Courtesy of Eterna

The calibre’s great many possibilities and its apparent complexity belie its simple design and few component parts.  Manufacture of all versions has been highly industrialised and the assembly optimised.

The quality of the movement is top-notch. The entire line has chronometer quality and the Spherodrive system has been further refined. The balance wheel’s high inertia (16g/mm²) gives it a great deal of precision and stability. Furthermore, 68 hours of power reserve is guaranteed. All the chronograph functions are controlled by a column wheel, which in turn features a flyback function. The movement is “Swiss made”, but could in fact be described as “Grenchen made”. Indeed, 70% of the components are manufactured in or around Eterna’s hometown of Grenchen.               

www.eterna.com